Skin cosmetics
A skin cosmetic combining hydrolyzed gardenia extract with a solid or pasty moisturizer addresses environmental and stability issues of synthetic dyes, achieving improved skin elasticity and transparency by forming a protective film.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2024107360
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-07-03
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetics using synthetic dyes face environmental concerns and stability issues, while naturally derived pigments like ultramarine and anthocyanin are water-insoluble or light-sensitive, limiting their applications, and there is a lack of reports on the skin effects of hydrolyzed gardenia extract.
A skin cosmetic formulation combining hydrolyzed gardenia extract with a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or pasty at 30°C, enhancing skin elasticity and transparency.
The formulation provides excellent aesthetics, improves skin elasticity, and enhances skin transparency by forming a film that maintains hydrolyzed gardenia extract on the skin, preventing oxidation and making the skin appear brighter.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic. [Background technology]
[0002] In cosmetics, colorants are often used to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the product, to heighten expectations of its effectiveness, and to conceal discoloration over time. For example, blue coloring can be used to create a cool or moisturizing impression, or green coloring to convey the impression of a rich plant-derived ingredient. Common colorants include tar dyes such as Blue No. 1 and Green No. 3, as well as synthetic dyes such as azulene and malachite green. While these synthetic dyes have the advantages of being relatively stable against light and heat and capable of producing beautiful colors in small amounts, they also have drawbacks, such as environmental concerns due to their petroleum-derived ingredients, and some being carcinogenic.
[0003] Against this background, cosmetics using naturally derived coloring ingredients have been reported. For example, examples using the inorganic pigment ultramarine or plants containing anthocyanin pigments, such as butterfly pea, have been reported. While these also have a certain effect in creating aesthetically pleasing cosmetics, inorganic pigments are water-insoluble, limiting the types of cosmetics that can be used, and plants containing anthocyanin pigments easily fade due to light, heat, changes in pH, etc.
[0004] Thus, hydrolyzed gardenia extract is known as a coloring agent that is highly water-soluble, fades slowly, and has excellent aesthetic appeal. Hydrolyzed gardenia extract is a blue to green coloring agent obtained by hydrolyzing components obtained from the fruit of the natural gardenia plant, and is used to color bust packs, for example, as shown in Patent Document 1. However, there are few examples of hydrolyzed gardenia extract being used in cosmetics, and there have been few reports on its effects on the skin. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 2024-012220 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0006] The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic that not only has excellent product aesthetics but also has excellent effects of imparting elasticity to the skin and enhancing the transparency of the skin. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] As a result of further intensive research to achieve the above object, the present inventors discovered that a skin cosmetic containing a hydrolyzed gardenia extract and a water-soluble moisturizer that is a solid or paste at 30°C not only has a blue to green coloring effect, but also has the effect of imparting elasticity to the skin and enhancing the transparency of the skin, thereby completing the present invention.
[0008] The present invention is as follows. [1] A skin cosmetic comprising hydrolyzed gardenia extract and a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or pasty at 30°C. [2] A water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or paste at 30°C has an average molecular weight of 4000 or more and 200 10. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the polyethylene glycols are one or more polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 0.00 or less, and trimethylglycine. [Effects of the Invention]
[0009] The present invention can provide a skin cosmetic that not only has excellent product aesthetics but also has excellent effects of imparting elasticity to the skin and enhancing the transparency of the skin.
[0010] Here, in this specification, "enhancing skin transparency" means bringing about a state in which the skin appears bright and clear without dullness or cloudiness. Factors that enhance transparency include a high moisture content in the stratum corneum, high transparency of the stratum corneum, and a plump and uniform texture of the skin surface. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] The skin cosmetic according to this embodiment will be described below, but the present invention is not limited to the following embodiment. The present invention is not limited to the individual components described below, and various modifications are possible within the scope of the claims. The technical scope of the present invention also includes embodiments and examples obtained by appropriately combining the technical means disclosed in different embodiments and examples. Furthermore, in this specification, unless otherwise specified, "A to B" representing a numerical range means "greater than or equal to A and less than or equal to B."
[0012] <Skin cosmetics> The skin cosmetic according to this embodiment contains (A) hydrolyzed gardenia extract and (B) a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or pasty at 30°C.
[0013] <Hydrolyzed Gardenia Extract> The component (A) in the skin cosmetic of this embodiment is hydrolyzed gardenia extract. Hydrolyzed gardenia extract is obtained by hydrolyzing an extract consisting of gardenia fruit and a fraction extracted from gardenia fruit with water, ethanol, butylene glycol, etc., using acids or enzymes. During this hydrolysis process, the color of the component changes to blue or green. It is a water-soluble component, and commercially available products used as ingredients in foods and cosmetics can be used. While hydrolyzed gardenia extract has been used as a colorant or antioxidant, the present inventors have discovered new effects, such as improving skin elasticity and enhancing skin transparency, by using hydrolyzed gardenia extract in combination with (B) a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or paste-like at 30°C, as described below.
[0014] The blending amount of component (A) contained in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment is preferably 0.0005 to 0.05% by mass (hereinafter, unless otherwise specified, mass % is used) in the skin cosmetic, calculated as the cosmetic product label name "hydrolyzed gardenia extract." A blending amount of component (A) of 0.0005% by mass or more provides sufficient coloring effects for the product, as well as effects of improving skin elasticity and skin transparency. Furthermore, a blending amount of component (A) of 0.05% by mass or less can suppress the deterioration of aesthetics due to the cosmetic color being too dark, and the unpleasant feeling of skin appearing noticeably blue or green due to the skin cosmetic remaining on the skin after use.
[0015] <Water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or paste at 30°C> Component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment is a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or pasty at 30°C. Water-soluble moisturizers are commonly used in cosmetics, and commercially available cosmetic ingredients can be used. Among these, those that become solid or pasty at room temperature or on the skin due to properties such as molecular weight and molecular shape are used in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment. Component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment dissolves transparently in the skin cosmetic, so it does not impair the aesthetics of the skin cosmetic. In addition, When used, component (B) of the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment precipitates as a solid or paste, forming a film on the skin as the water contained in the skin cosmetic evaporates. The formation of this film on the skin allows the hydrolyzed gardenia extract (component (A)) to remain on the skin. Therefore, the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment is able to exhibit excellent moisturizing properties and sustained release of component (A) by forming a film on the skin with component (B), which is presumably responsible for synergistically enhancing skin elasticity and transparency.
[0016] The blending amount of component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment is preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass in the skin cosmetic. When the blending amount of component (B) is 0.5% by mass or more, the effect of sufficiently enhancing skin elasticity and transparency can be obtained. Furthermore, when the blending amount of component (B) is 3.0% by mass or less, unpleasant stickiness when using the cosmetic can be suppressed.
[0017] Furthermore, component (B) in the skin cosmetic preparation according to this embodiment is not limited to water-soluble moisturizers as long as it is solid or pasty at 30°C and does not impair the effects of the present invention. Examples of component (B) include polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more and trimethylglycine. Polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more and trimethylglycine that can be used as component (B) in the skin cosmetic preparation according to this embodiment are described below.
[0018] <Polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1,000 or more> Polyethylene glycol, also known as PEG or macrogol, is a compound formed by the dehydration condensation of ethylene oxide and has no charge in aqueous solution. It has been used as a moisturizer or excipient in cosmetics. While polyethylene glycols with a molecular weight of approximately 600 or less are liquid at 30°C, those with a molecular weight of approximately 1000 or more are often solid or pasty at 30°C. Therefore, polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more can be used as component (B) in the skin cosmetic of this embodiment. Polyethylene glycols that are solid or pasty at 30°C preferably have an average molecular weight of 4000 to 20,000. The use of polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 4000 to 20,000 in the skin cosmetic of this embodiment allows the formation of a thin film on the skin when the skin cosmetic is used. Furthermore, unpleasant sensations such as stickiness and squeaking after use can be suppressed.
[0019] When polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more is used as component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment, its blending amount in the skin cosmetic is preferably 0.5 to 2.0% by mass. If the blending amount of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more is 0.5% by mass or more, a sufficient effect of improving skin elasticity and transparency can be obtained, and if it is 2.0% by mass or less, unpleasant sensations during use such as stickiness and squeaking can be sufficiently suppressed.
[0020] <Trimethylglycine> Trimethylglycine, also known as betaine, is an amino acid derivative that has both positive and negative charges in its molecule when in aqueous solution at near-neutral pH. It is commonly used as a moisturizer in skin cosmetics.
[0021] When trimethylglycine is used as component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment, after use, trimethylglycine precipitates as a salt on the skin as moisture evaporates from the skin cosmetic, forming a coating. This is presumably because the formation of the coating provides excellent moisturizing properties and the permeability of component (A). When trimethylglycine is used as component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment, its blending amount is preferably 0.3 to 2.0% by mass in the skin cosmetic. If the blending amount of trimethylglycine is 0.3% by mass or more, sufficient effects of improving skin elasticity and transparency can be obtained, and if it is 2.0% by mass or less, It is possible to sufficiently suppress unpleasant sensations such as stickiness and squeaking.
[0022] The water-soluble moisturizing agent that is solid or pasty at 30°C and is used as component (B) in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment may be used alone or in combination of two or more. When using a combination of two or more, a combination of polyethylene glycol and trimethylglycine with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more is preferred, and a combination of polyethylene glycol and trimethylglycine with an average molecular weight of 4000 to 20,000 is even more preferred. Polyethylene glycol and trimethylglycine with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more have different properties when forming a film on the skin after application of the skin cosmetic. Therefore, it is presumed that their distinct properties synergistically enhance the effect. When polyethylene glycol and trimethylglycine with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more are used in the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment, the blending amount of component (B) is the total amount of polyethylene glycol and trimethylglycine with an average molecular weight of 1000 or more, and is preferably 0.5 to 3.0% by mass in the skin cosmetic.
[0023] The skin cosmetic according to this embodiment contains (A) hydrolyzed gardenia extract and (B) a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or pasty at 30°C, and thus not only provides the effect of coloring the product to enhance its aesthetic appeal, but also the effect of improving skin elasticity and enhancing skin translucency. The mechanism by which the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment enhances skin translucency is presumed to be that it prevents oxidation of the stratum corneum, thereby reducing dullness and making the stratum corneum more transparent, and that blue or green components remain on the skin, making the skin appear visually brighter after application. With regard to the latter in particular, while pigments, such as those used in makeup, are commonly used to correct skin color, there have been few reported cases in which a similar effect has been achieved using water-soluble coloring components contained in skin cosmetic products, and it is therefore presumed that this is a new, unexpected effect.
[0024] <Other ingredients> In addition to the above-mentioned components, the skin cosmetic preparation according to this embodiment may contain other components, such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, oils, emollients, polymeric compounds, thickeners, polysaccharides, powders (colorants, resins, pigments), preservatives, fragrances, moisturizers, physiologically active ingredients, mineral salts, solvents, antioxidants, chelating agents, pearlizing agents, neutralizing agents, pH adjusters, plant extracts, enzymes, vitamins, and amino acids, as appropriate, provided that the purpose of the present invention is not impaired.
[0025] Furthermore, the skin cosmetic composition according to this embodiment can contain an appropriate amount of physiologically active ingredients, provided that the purpose of the present invention is not impaired. Physiologically active substances are substances that impart some kind of physiological activity to the skin when applied to the skin, and examples thereof include whitening agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-aging agents, UV protection agents, astringents, antioxidants, blood circulation promoters, antibacterial agents, disinfectants, cooling agents, warming agents, wound healing promoters, irritation soothing agents, analgesics, and cell activators.
[0026] The skin cosmetic according to this embodiment can be manufactured according to conventional methods. Examples of the skin cosmetic according to this embodiment include lotions, emulsions, creams, serums, gels, sheet masks, makeup, body lotions, body gels, body creams, facial soaps, facial cleansing foams, body soaps, cleansing agents, and makeup bases. The dosage form can also be selected arbitrarily depending on the purpose. Examples include liquids, creams, gels, emulsions, sheets, sticks, and aerosols. The skin cosmetic according to this embodiment is not limited to general skin cosmetic products, but also includes quasi-drugs, designated quasi-drugs, and topical medicines. [Example]
[0027] The present invention will now be described in detail with reference to examples, but is not limited thereto. Prior to the examples, the test and evaluation methods employed in each example will be described.
[0028] (Skin elasticity evaluation test) <Evaluation method> Five volunteers were asked to apply 1.0 mL of the skin cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples to half of their faces as skin care after washing their faces in the morning and evening, twice a day for three days. Before and after the continuous application, the subjects were allowed to rest for 10 minutes in a room at 22°C and 50% RH after washing their faces, and the skin elasticity R7 was measured using a Cutometer (MPA580, manufactured by Courage+Khazaka). Skin elasticity R7 before the continuous application before and skin elasticity after continuous use R7 after The percentage change in skin elasticity before and after application was calculated using the formula below, and the average value of the five subjects was used to classify the results into the following scores. <Skin elasticity evaluation score> ΔR7=(R7 after / R7 before ) x 100 <Skin elasticity evaluation criteria> ◎: The average value of 5 people was 110% or more ○: The average value of 5 people was 105% or more but less than 110% △: The average value of 5 people was 95% or more but less than 105% ×: The average value of 5 people was less than 95%
[0029] (Skin clarity evaluation test) <Evaluation method> Five volunteers were asked to apply 1.0 mL of the skin cosmetics of the Examples and Comparative Examples to half of their faces twice a day for three days as part of their skin care routine after washing their faces in the morning and evening. Before and after each application, they rested for 10 minutes in a room at 22°C and 50% RH, then looked in the mirror and rated their own skin clarity on a seven-point scale. The change in the evaluation of skin clarity before and after application was calculated using the following formula, and the average score of the five volunteers was used to classify the results into the following scores. <Skin clarity evaluation score> 7-point scale rating for clarity after use - 7-point scale rating for clarity before use <Evaluation criteria for skin clarity> ◎: The average score of 5 people was 1 or more ○: The average score of 5 people was 0.4 or more but less than 1. △: The average value of 5 people was between -0.2 and 0.4 ×: The average score of 5 people was less than -0.2
[0030] <Examples 1 to 19 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3> Skin cosmetics having the formulations of Examples 1 to 19 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by standard methods and evaluated by the respective test methods. The results are also shown in Table 1.
[0031] [Table 1]
[0032] [Table 2]
[0033] As is clear from Tables 1 and 2, all of the skin cosmetics of Examples 1 to 19 had excellent performance. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 to 3, which lacked one of the essential components, were inferior in either the skin elasticity improving effect or the skin transparency improving effect, and the object of the present invention was not achieved.
[0034] Other formulation examples of the skin cosmetic of the present invention are given below as Examples. The skin cosmetic of these Examples not only has excellent aesthetic properties, but also has excellent properties in terms of improving skin elasticity and skin transparency.
[0035] Example 20 (sheet pack) (1) Hydrolyzed Gardenia Extract 0.002% (2) PEG-75 1.0% (3) Betaine 1.0% (4) Niacinamide 0.5% (5) Rice bran extract 0.1% (6) Bilberry Leaf Extract 0.05% (7) Cyclohexane-1,4-dicarboxylic acid bisethoxydiglycol 0.5% (8) Glycerin 5.0% (9) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0% (10) Propanediol 2.0% (11) Dipropylene glycol 2.0% (12) Pentylene glycol 0.5% (13) Sorbitol 0.5% (14) Maltitol 0.1% (15) Polyglycerin-6 0.5% (16) Edetate disodium 0.005% (17) Sodium citrate 0.05% (18) Potassium hydroxide 0.01% (19) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.03% (20) Xanthan gum 0.05% (21) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.2% (22) Polysorbate 20 0.1% (23) Phenoxyethanol 0.2% (24) Methylparaben 0.1% (25) Ethanol 0.01% (26) PPG-13 decyltetradeceth-24 0.1% (27) Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.005% (28) Ascorbic acid 0.01% (29) Retinol palmitate 0.01% (30) Tocopherol 0.01% (31) Purified water remainder
[0036] (Production Method) Components (1) to (10), (12) to (17), (19), (20), (27), and (28) were added to (31) and uniformly dissolved (Solution A). Components (21) to (26), (29), and (30) were added to (11) and uniformly dissolved (Solution B). Components (18) and B were added to Solution A and uniformly dissolved to prepare a beauty essence for a sheet mask. A sheet mask was prepared by impregnating a nonwoven fabric manufactured by Bemliese with this beauty essence.
[0037] Example 21 (sheet pack) (1) Hydrolyzed Gardenia Extract 0.01% (2) PEG-150 0.5% (3) PEG-75 0.5% (4) Betaine 1.5% (5) Pomegranate Fruit Extract 0.2% (6) Rosa canina fruit extract 0.2% (7) PEG / PPG / Polybutylene Glycol 8 / 5 / 3 Glycerin 0.5% (8) Glycerin 3.0% (9) 1,3-butylene glycol 10.0% (10) Ethanol 2.0% (11) Dipropylene glycol 5.0% (12) Diglycerin 0.5% (13) Glycosyltrehalose 0.1% (14) Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate 0.05% (15) Sodium pyrosulfite 0.01% (16)HEDTA-3Na 0.01% (17) Sodium phosphate 0.05% (18) Potassium hydroxide 0.01% (19) (Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate) Crosspolymer 0.03% (20) Xanthan gum 0.1% (21) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.4% (22) Polysorbate 20 0.15% (23) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% (24) Methylparaben 0.05% (25) Tranexamic acid 3.0% (26) Purified water remainder
[0038] (Production method) (1) to (25) were added to (26) and dissolved uniformly to prepare a beauty essence for a sheet mask. A rayon nonwoven fabric was impregnated with this beauty essence to prepare a sheet mask.
[0039] Example 22 (slightly cloudy lotion) (1) Hydrolyzed Gardenia Extract 0.0005% (2) PEG-20 0.5% (3) PEG-75 1.0% (4) Betaine 1.0% (5) Pomegranate flower extract 0.1% (6) Aloe vera extract 0.1% (7) Green tea extract 0.3% (8) Dipropylene glycol 8.0% (9) Mineral oil 0.1% (10) Dimethicone 0.2% (11) PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 0.1% (12) PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate 0.5% (13) Xanthan gum 0.05% (14) (Acrylates / Alkyl Acrylates) (C10-30) copolymer 0.05% (15) Hydrolyzed elastin 0.01% (16) α-glucan 0.001% (17) Glucosylceramide 0.02% (18) Sodium chondroitin sulfate 0.1% (19) N-acetylglucosamine 0.01% (20) Edetate disodium 0.01% (21) Hydrolyzed Collagen 0.001% (22) Sodium Hyaluronate 0.001% (23) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.001% (24) Hydroxyacetophenone 0.1% (25) Sodium L-stearoyl glutamate 0.1% (26) Phenoxyethanol 0.8% (27) Methylparaben 0.01% (28) Purified water remainder
[0040] (Production method) (1) to (8), (13) to (22), and (24) to (27) were added to (28) and stirred to dissolve uniformly (Liquid A). (9) to (12) and (23) were heated to 40°C and then uniformly dispersed (Liquid B). Liquid B was added to Liquid A, and the mixture was stirred and mixed until uniform, followed by cooling to 30°C to prepare a slightly cloudy lotion.
[0041] Example 23 (milky beauty serum) (1) Hydrolyzed Gardenia Extract 0.002% (2) PEG-75 1.0% (3) Betaine 0.1% (4) Arginine 0.05% (5) Nicotinamide 7.0% (6) Polysorbate 20 0.3% (7) Sodium cetyl sulfate 0.2% (8) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.2% (9) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1% (10) Sodium polyacrylate 0.02% (11) Stearic acid 0.2% (12) Monoglyceryl stearate 0.1% (13) Behenyl alcohol 0.1% (14) Mineral oil 0.5% (15) Ceramide II 0.0001% (16) Vaseline 0.1% (17) Jojoba oil 0.5% (18) Squalane 0.5% (19) Sorbitan isostearate 0.1% (20) Tocopheryl acetate 0.1% (21) Human stem cell culture medium 0.001% (22)Fragrance 0.05% (23) Phenoxyethanol 0.6% (24) Methylparaben 0.1% (25) Purified water remainder
[0042] (Production method) (1) to (10) were added to (25) and heated to 70°C to dissolve uniformly (Liquid A). (11) to (20) were heated to 70°C and then dissolved uniformly (Liquid B). Liquid A was added to Liquid B, and the mixture was dispersed in a homogenizer until uniform, and then cooled to 50°C (Liquid C). (21) to (24) were added to Liquid C, and the mixture was further dispersed in a homogenizer until uniform, and then cooled to 32°C to prepare a milky cosmetic serum.
Claims
1. A skin cosmetic comprising (A) a hydrolyzed gardenia extract and (B) a water-soluble moisturizer that is solid or pasty at 30°C.
2. 2. The skin cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein (B) the water-soluble moisturizing agent that is solid or pasty at 30°C comprises one or more polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 4,000 or more and 20,000 or less, and trimethylglycine.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Bust pack method
JP2024012220A