Method for evaluating long-term durability of sample fabric

Abstract

An object of the present invention is to provide a novel method for appropriately evaluating the long-term durability of a sample fabric.SOLUTION: An evaluation method according to the present invention is a method for evaluating long-term durability of a sample fabric, the evaluation method including a shine test, the shine test including a step of alternately repeating an abrasion treatment of rubbing the sample fabric with a friction plate and an ironing treatment of ironing the sample fabric heated to 140 to 160 °C after the abrasion treatment.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for evaluating the long-term durability of a sample fabric, and preferably to a method for evaluating how long the fine quality of the sample fabric lasts. [Background technology]

[0002] Traditionally, the fashion industry has had a large environmental impact due to mass production, mass consumption, mass disposal, and other factors that have shortened the life cycle of fashion. Recently, the fashion industry has been implementing various initiatives to reduce its environmental impact in order to realize a sustainable society, with particular attention being paid to "longevity," which extends the period of time clothing can be worn. Since consumers tend to replace clothing when they perceive it as damaged, developing fabrics that are resistant to damage is an important approach to reducing clothing waste. "Shinyness" and "wrinkles" are known to be the most noticeable damage to consumers' clothing, and research reports on these issues have been published (Non-Patent Documents 1-2). [Prior art documents] [Non-patent literature]

[0003] [Non-Patent Document 1] Gunji, et al., "On the Shine of Wool and Wool-Blended Fabrics," Textile Product Consumption Science, Vol. 21, No. 10, pp. 443-448, 1980 [Non-patent document 2] Kuzuhara, et al., "New Wrinkle Resistance Evaluation Test Method for Wool," Journal of the Textile Machinery Society, Vol. 51, No. 12, pp. T252-T256, 1998 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0004] When developing fabrics that are resistant to damage, it is necessary to quickly evaluate how susceptible the fabric is to damage in order to accelerate development, but a method that can appropriately evaluate the damage of clothing has not yet been provided.

[0005] The inventors of the present invention focused on the fact that consumers place importance on three aspects of damage to clothing: "shininess," "whitening," and "wrinkles." Therefore, in order to evaluate the degree to which a sample fabric is prone to "shininess," "whitening," and "wrinkles," they focused on establishing a method that can quickly reproduce "shininess," "whitening," and "wrinkles."

[0006] The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned problems in the prior art. That is, an object of the present invention is to provide a new method for appropriately evaluating the long-term durability of a sample fabric. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] As a result of extensive research, the present inventors have found that the above problems can be solved by the following means, and have arrived at the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configuration.

[0008] [1] A method for evaluating the long-term durability of a sample fabric, the evaluation method including a shine test, characterized in that the shine test includes a process of alternately repeating an abrasion treatment in which the sample fabric is rubbed against a friction plate, and an ironing treatment in which an iron heated to 140 to 160°C is applied to the sample fabric after the abrasion treatment. [2] The evaluation method according to [1], wherein a hard plate is used as the friction plate. [3] The evaluation method according to [1] or [2], further comprising a whitening test, the whitening test comprising a step of performing an abrasion treatment 4,000 to 10,000 times using a Martindale abrasion tester. [4] The evaluation method according to any one of [1] to [3], further comprising a wrinkle test, in which the wrinkle test comprises the steps of cutting a sample fabric into a size of 21 to 50 mm in the longitudinal direction and 10 to 20 mm in the transverse direction, folding the sample fabric in half longitudinally, placing it in a sweat tester, applying a load of 3 to 5 kg, and leaving it for 12 to 36 hours under conditions of a temperature of 30 to 50°C and a humidity of 55 to 75%. [Effects of the Invention]

[0009] According to the present invention, a new method for appropriately evaluating the long-term durability of a sample fabric is provided. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0010] 1) Shine test Since "shininess" is an issue that consumers easily recognize as damage to clothing, the evaluation method of the present invention includes a shine test. The shine test involves alternately repeating an abrasion treatment in which a sample fabric is rubbed against a friction plate, and an ironing treatment in which an iron heated to 140 to 160°C is applied to the sample fabric after the abrasion treatment. This process allows for appropriate reproduction of shine. In the abrasion treatment, the sample fabric is preferably abraded against the friction plate 400 to 600 times using a Martindale abrasion tester. In the ironing treatment, the iron is preferably rubbed back and forth on the sample fabric 4 to 6 times at a speed of 0.5 to 1.5 seconds per stroke. The pressure load during abrasion is preferably 20 to 30 kPa.

[0011] It is preferable to use a hard plate as the friction plate. The shine phenomenon occurs when a hard plate (for example, a desk top, a chair seat, a floor board, or the bottom of a bag) comes into contact with a fabric and the fabric surface becomes smooth, so using a hard plate as the friction plate makes it easier to reproduce shine. As the hard plate, various materials having the desired rigidity (the desired rigidity means a rigidity that does not easily cause bending under the pressure load during friction during the shine test) can be used, such as plastics such as vinyl chloride resin, metal, polyurethane, and decorative plate. It is even better if the surface of the hard plate is smooth. The thickness of the hard plate is not particularly limited, and a thickness of 0.5 to 3 mm is preferably used.

[0012] When mounting the sample fabric on the Martindale abrasion tester, the sample fabric may be mounted on a sample holder (in this case, the friction plate is mounted in the position where a standard friction fabric is usually mounted), or the sample fabric may be mounted in the position where a standard friction fabric is usually mounted (in this case, the friction plate is mounted on the sample holder). The former method provides good reproduction of shine, while the latter method allows the effects of the shine test to be observed over a wide range of the sample fabric.

[0013] To promote the development of shine, a step of spraying water onto the sample fabric may be carried out between the abrasion treatment and the ironing treatment. The amount of water to be sprayed is preferably 0.5 to 5 cc per 12 to 17 cm square sample fabric. When spraying water, it is advisable to wet the entire surface of the sample fabric.

[0014] A total of 35 to 45 sets of abrasion treatment and subsequent ironing treatment are considered to be one set (to reach a final abrasion count of 15,000 to 25,000 times).

[0015] The shine test may further include a step of immersing the sample fabric in water at 20 to 40°C for 20 to 40 minutes after the step of alternately repeating abrasion and ironing. This step simulates washing, and by performing this step, the shine of the sample fabric can be reproduced well. To promote water penetration, the soaking water may contain 0.03 to 0.07% of a penetrant. Examples of penetrants include the "Minex" series manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.

[0016] After soaking, excess moisture from the sample fabric is removed using filter paper or the like, and then the sample fabric is dried at a temperature of 15 to 25°C and a humidity of 55 to 75%. The drying time is not particularly limited, but is preferably 1 to 48 hours, and more preferably 10 to 36 hours. To accelerate drying, filter paper or the like can be placed under the sample fabric during drying.

[0017] Since the sample fabric thus obtained has a reproduced shine, this test allows the user to quickly evaluate the degree to which the sample fabric tends to acquire shine over long-term use. The evaluation of shine is not particularly limited, but it is recommended to use, for example, glossiness.

[0018] 2) Whitening test In the present disclosure, "whitening" refers to a phenomenon in which fabrics appear whitish to the naked eye, which occurs when fabrics rub against each other and the surface of the fabric becomes frayed. The whitening test involves a process of performing an abrasion treatment 4,000 to 10,000 times (preferably 4,000 to 7,000 times) using a Martindale abrasion tester. This process allows the whitening phenomenon to be properly reproduced. The pressing load during abrasion is preferably 8 to 10 kPa. The friction cloth used should preferably be a standard friction cloth (as defined in JIS L 1096 8.19.5E method: 2010).

[0019] Since the whitening phenomenon is reproduced in the sample fabric obtained by this process, by performing this test, it is possible to quickly evaluate the degree to which the sample fabric is susceptible to whitening with long-term use. The evaluation of whitening is not particularly limited, but it is recommended to adopt, for example, an evaluation of discoloration using the gray scale for discoloration described in JIS L 0804:2004.

[0020] 3) Wrinkle test In this disclosure, "wrinkles" refer to the phenomenon of fabric appearing to be folded to the naked eye, which has become fixed to the extent that it is not easily recovered due to prolonged wear, etc. The wrinkle test involves cutting a sample fabric into a size of 21-50 mm in the longitudinal direction and 10-20 mm in the transverse direction, folding the sample fabric in half longitudinally, clamping it in a sweat tester, applying a load of 3-5 kg, and leaving it for 12-36 hours under conditions of a temperature of 30-50°C and a humidity of 55-75%. "Folding in half longitudinally" specifically refers to folding the sample fabric along the longitudinal centerline of a sample fabric cut to a predetermined size. This process allows for appropriate reproduction of long-term wrinkles. The method of cutting the sample fabric is not particularly limited, but the longitudinal direction may be aligned with the weaving direction (machine direction) of the sample fabric, or the longitudinal direction may be aligned with the width direction of the sample fabric (i.e., the direction perpendicular to the weaving direction).

[0021] The wrinkle test may further include a step of immersing the sample fabric removed from the sweat tester in water at 20 to 40°C for 20 to 40 minutes. This step simulates washing, and by performing this step, the reproducibility of wrinkles on the sample fabric can be improved. To promote water penetration, the water used for immersion may contain 0.03 to 0.07% of a penetrant. Examples of penetrants include the "Minex" series manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.

[0022] Since the sample fabric thus obtained has fixed wrinkles, this test allows for a quick evaluation of the degree to which the sample fabric is prone to wrinkles over long-term use. The method for evaluating wrinkles is not particularly limited, but it is advisable to, for example, remove excess moisture from the sample fabric after immersion using filter paper or the like, and then evaluate the opening angle using a Monsanto testing machine in accordance with JIS L 1059-1:2009 under conditions of a temperature of 15 to 25°C and a humidity of 55 to 75%.

[0023] 4) Overall rating The above-mentioned "shine test," "whitening test," and "wrinkle test" can evaluate long-term damage to a sample fabric in a short period of time, so it is possible to conduct each test individually and evaluate the long-term durability of the sample fabric for each item. On the other hand, it is also possible to appropriately combine these tests to comprehensively evaluate the long-term durability of the sample fabric (hereinafter referred to as a "comprehensive evaluation test"). Because "shine" is particularly noticeable to consumers as a sign of long-term damage to a product, the comprehensive evaluation test should include at least a "shine test," and should also be combined with a "whitening test" and / or a "wrinkle test." Specific examples of comprehensive evaluation tests include a combination of two tests: a shine test / whitening test, a shine test / wrinkle test, or a three-test combination: a shine test / whitening test / wrinkle test.

[0024] The evaluation method for the comprehensive evaluation test is not particularly limited, but for example, it is advisable to give a score to the sample fabric in each of the "shine test," "whitening test," and "wrinkle test," and then add up the obtained scores to comprehensively evaluate the long-term durability of the sample fabric.

[0025] 5) Sample fabric Although the scope of application of the present invention is not particularly limited, it is preferably applied to the evaluation of fabrics for products expected to be used for a long period of time, such as uniforms and school uniforms. Uniforms and school uniforms are generally high-priced items and are worn frequently and for long periods of time. Furthermore, damage such as "shininess," "whitening," and "wrinkles" are often observed in products expected to be used for a long period of time, such as uniforms and school uniforms. Therefore, the evaluation method of the present invention is particularly suitable for evaluating fabrics for uniforms and school uniforms. Examples of fibers that may be contained in the sample fabric include animal hair fibers such as wool; animal fibers such as silk; plant fibers such as cotton and hemp; and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers (e.g., polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, etc.), polyamide fibers (e.g., nylon 6, nylon 66, etc.), and acrylic fibers (e.g., polyacrylonitrile fibers, etc.). Among these, the sample fabric preferably contains at least one of animal hair fibers (preferably wool) and synthetic fibers (preferably polyester fibers), which are likely to be contained in the fabrics for uniforms and school uniforms. It is more preferable that the sample fabric contain at least animal hair fibers (preferably wool). When the sample fabric contains animal hair fibers (preferably wool), the content of animal hair fibers (preferably wool) in 100% by mass of the sample fabric is preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, even more preferably 60% by mass or more, and preferably 100% by mass or less, more preferably 90% by mass or less, even more preferably 80% by mass or less. [Example]

[0026] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to the following examples, and it is possible to carry out the invention by making appropriate modifications within the scope of the above and below-described aims, and all such modifications are included in the technical scope of the present invention.

[0027] [Test Example 1: Shine Test] First, the following samples 1 to 3 were prepared as sample fabrics. Sample 1: Serge fabric made of 100% polyester fiber Sample 2: Serge fabric made of 50% polyester fiber and 50% wool Sample 3: Serge fabric made of 100% wool

[0028] Sample 1 was cut to a size of 14.5 cm x 14.5 cm. A plastic plate (Kyoei Plastics' "Black Underlay," made of hard vinyl chloride resin) was prepared as a friction plate and cut into a 55 mm diameter circle. The 55 mm diameter plastic plate was attached to the sample holder of a Martindale abrasion tester (James Heal's "Martindale Abrasion and Pilling Tester") using double-sided tape. Sample 1 was then attached to the sample holder in the same position as a standard friction cloth. Abrasion treatment was performed under conditions of a pressure load of 24 kPa and 500 abrasion cycles. After 500 abrasion cycles, Sample 1 was removed and sprayed with water (1.5 cc total) using a spray bottle to wet the entire surface. Next, Sample 1 was ironed five times at a speed of 1 stroke per second using an iron (Toshiba's "TA-DX2") heated to 140-160°C. This abrasion treatment, water spraying and ironing treatment constituted one set, and a total of 40 sets were carried out (total abrasion times reached 20,000). Next, the treated sample 1 was immersed for 30 minutes in water at 30° C. containing 0.05% by mass of a penetrant ("Minex WOR" manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.). After removing excess water from Sample 1 from the water using filter paper, Sample 1 was spread on the filter paper and dried for 24 hours at a temperature of 20°C and a humidity of 65%. The glossiness of Sample 1 after drying was measured using a glossmeter (HORIBA "IG-340", measurement angle: 85°). The glossiness was measured at five different points on Sample 1, and the average measurement results were used for evaluation.

[0029] The shine test was also carried out on Samples 2 and 3 in the same manner as Sample 1, and the glossiness after the shine test was measured.

[0030] [Reference Example 1: Evaluation of shine on school uniforms worn for three years] Reference samples 1 to 3 were prepared by collecting samples from school uniforms that had been worn for three years, and the glossiness of reference samples 1 to 3 was measured in the same manner as in Test Example 1. Reference sample 1: School uniform made of 100% polyester fiber serge material after 3 years of wear Reference sample 2: School uniform made of serge material consisting of 50% polyester fiber and 50% wool after 3 years of wear Reference sample 3: School uniform made of 100% wool serge material after 3 years of wear

[0031] The results of Test Example 1 and Reference Example 1 are shown below. As the tendency of glossiness of Reference Samples 1 to 3 shows, the glossiness tends to increase as the blend ratio of polyester fiber increases, and the above glossiness test shows that the same tendency is also observed for Samples 1 to 3. Furthermore, with regard to glossiness, it is clear that Samples 1 to 3 exhibit a glossiness equivalent to that of school uniforms after three years of wear. <Glossiness results> 1) 100% polyester fiber by mass Reference sample 1:2.5 Sample 1: 2.6 2) 50% polyester fiber and 50% wool Reference sample 2: 1.8 Sample 2: 1.8 3) 100% wool by mass Reference sample 3:1.4 Sample 3: 1.3

[0032] [Test Example 2: Whitening test] For the whitening test, the same samples 1 to 3 as in [Test Example 1: Shine Test] were used. Sample 1 was cut into a circle (one piece) with a diameter of 38 mm. This was attached to the sample holder of a Martindale abrasion tester ("Martindale Abrasion and Pilling Tester" manufactured by James Heal), and subjected to abrasion treatment with a pressure load of 9 kPa, a standard abrasion cloth (as specified in JIS L 1096 8.19.5E method:2010), and 5,000 abrasion cycles. The discoloration of Sample 1 after the abrasion treatment was measured using a discoloration gray scale in accordance with JIS L 0804:2004.

[0033] The whitening test was also carried out on Samples 2 and 3 in the same manner as Sample 1, and discoloration after the whitening test was measured.

[0034] [Reference Example 2: Evaluation of whitening of school uniforms worn for three years] The same reference samples 1 to 3 as in [Reference Example 1: Evaluation of shine on school uniforms worn for three years] were used, and discoloration of reference samples 1 to 3 was measured in the same manner as in Test Example 2.

[0035] The results of Test Example 2 and Reference Example 2 are shown below. As the discoloration tendency of Reference Samples 1 to 3 shows, whitening tends to become stronger as the blend ratio of polyester fiber increases, and the above whitening test shows that Samples 1 to 3 also show a similar tendency. In addition, with regard to discoloration, it is clear that Samples 1 to 3 show discoloration to the same extent as school uniforms after three years of wear. <Results of discoloration> 1) 100% polyester fiber by mass Reference sample 1: Grade 4 Sample 1: Grade 3-4 2) 50% polyester fiber and 50% wool Reference sample 2: Grade 5 Sample 2: Grade 5 3) 100% wool by mass Reference sample 3: Grade 4-5 Sample 3: Grade 5

[0036] [Test Example 3: Wrinkle test] For the wrinkle test, the same samples 1 to 3 as in [Test Example 1: Shine Test] were used. First, Sample 1 was cut into six pieces measuring 40 mm long x 15 mm wide. Next, one piece of Sample 1 was folded in half (20 mm long x 15 mm wide, a total of six pieces), and placed in a sweat tester ("Sweat Tester" manufactured by Asano Machinery Co., Ltd.), subjected to a load of approximately 3.67 kg, and left for 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 40°C and a humidity of 65%. Then, Sample 1 was removed from the sweat tester, and six vertical samples were prepared in the same manner. The sample of Sample 1 was cut in a different way, and six pieces of Sample 1 were cut, each measuring 15 mm long x 40 mm wide. Next, one sheet of Sample 1 was folded in half (15 mm long x 20 mm wide, a total of six sheets), and placed in a perspiration tester ("Perspiration Tester" manufactured by Asano Machinery Co., Ltd.), subjected to a load of approximately 3.67 kg, and left for 24 hours under conditions of a temperature of 40°C and a humidity of 65%. Sample 1 was then removed from the perspiration tester, and six horizontal samples were prepared in the same manner. Next, Sample 1 (a total of 12 samples) removed from the perspiration tester was immersed in water at 30° C. containing 0.05% by mass of a penetrant ("Minex WOR" manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) for 30 minutes. After removing excess water from Sample 1 from the water, it was spread on the filter paper and the opening angle was measured in accordance with JIS L 1059-1:2009 using a Monsanto testing machine (Intec's "Recovery Tester") at a temperature of 20°C and humidity of 65%. The opening angle was measured for a total of 12 samples and the measurement results were averaged and used for evaluation.

[0037] The wrinkle test was also carried out on Samples 2 and 3 in the same manner as Sample 1, and the opening angle after the wrinkle test was measured.

[0038] [Reference Example 3: Wrinkle evaluation of school uniform worn for 3 years] The same reference samples 1 to 3 as in [Reference Example 1: Evaluation of shine on school uniforms worn for three years] were used, and the opening angles of reference samples 1 to 3 were measured in the same manner as in Test Example 3.

[0039] The results of Test Example 3 and Reference Example 3 are shown below. As the tendency of the opening angle of Reference Samples 1 to 3 shows, the wrinkling tends to become stronger as the blend ratio of polyester fiber increases, and the above wrinkle test shows that the same tendency can be seen in Samples 1 to 3. In addition, it can be seen that Samples 1 to 3 can show an opening angle similar to that of a school uniform after three years of wear. <Opening angle results> 1) 100% polyester fiber by mass Reference sample 1: 105.0 degrees Sample 1: 100.5 degrees 2) 50% polyester fiber and 50% wool Reference sample 2: 129.3 degrees Sample 2: 129.3 degrees 3) 100% wool by mass Reference sample 3: 150.0 degrees Sample 3: 151.9 degrees

[0040] [Test Example 4: Comprehensive Test] Using the results of Test Examples 1 to 3, Samples 1 to 3 were comprehensively evaluated for their long-term durability (how long the high-quality feel lasts). In the gloss test, the samples with the lowest gloss were given scores of 100, 50, and 0. Sample 3: 100 points, Sample 2: 50 points, Sample 1: 0 points In the whitening test, the samples were given 100 points, 50 points, and 0 points in descending order of discoloration results. However, since both sample 2 and sample 3 were grade 5, both were given 100 points. Sample 3: 100 points, sample 2: 100 points, sample 1: 0 points In the wrinkle test, the samples with the largest opening angle were given scores of 100, 50, and 0, respectively. Sample 3: 100 points, Sample 2: 50 points, Sample 1: 0 point The scores for samples 1 to 3 were totaled to obtain the following results. A rating was given based on the total score and on the following evaluation criteria. As shown in the shine test, whitening test, and wrinkle test, the higher the polyester fiber content, the more severe the damage to clothing tends to be, and it can be seen that samples 1 to 3 in the overall test also show a similar tendency. <Evaluation criteria> ◎: 201~300 points, ○: 101~200 points, ×: 0~100 points <Overall rating> ◎: Sample 3 (300 points), ○: Sample 2 (200 points), ×: Sample 1 (0 points)

Claims

1. A method for evaluating the long-term durability of a sample fabric, comprising: The evaluation method includes a shine test, The shine test is an evaluation method characterized by including a process of alternately repeating an abrasion treatment in which a sample fabric is rubbed against a friction plate, and an ironing treatment in which an iron heated to 140 to 160°C is applied to the sample fabric after the abrasion treatment.

2. The evaluation method according to claim 1, wherein the friction plate is a hard plate.

3. It also includes bleaching tests.

2. The evaluation method according to claim 1, wherein the whitening test includes a step of performing an abrasion treatment 4,000 to 10,000 times using a Martindale abrasion tester.

4. It also includes a wrinkle test.

4. The evaluation method according to claim 1 or 3, wherein the wrinkle test comprises the steps of cutting a sample fabric into a size of 21 to 50 mm in the longitudinal direction and 10 to 20 mm in the lateral direction, folding the sample fabric in half longitudinally, placing the sample fabric in a perspiration tester, applying a load of 3 to 5 kg, and leaving the sample fabric for 12 to 36 hours under conditions of a temperature of 30 to 50°C and a humidity of 55 to 75%.