Transparent gel
A combination of dimer diol, branched primary alcohol, glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters, and ethyl cellulose polymer addresses the temperature limitations of existing cosmetic thickeners by offering transparency and shear thinning at elevated temperatures, facilitating the production of stable cosmetic products.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023536904
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2020-12-17
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-06
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing transparent thickeners, gelling agents, and shear thinning agents used in cosmetics require high temperatures for melting, which is not compatible with heat-sensitive compounds commonly found in cosmetic formulations, limiting the manufacturing temperature to below 100°C.
A combination of dimer diol, branched primary alcohol, glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters, and ethyl cellulose polymer, which are liquid at 25°C and exhibit properties such as transparency, stability, and shear thinning, allowing formulation at temperatures up to 50°C.
Enables the production of cosmetic products like lipsticks at higher temperatures by maintaining transparency and stability, while providing shear thinning and thixotropic properties, suitable for various cosmetic compounds.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a particular combination, its use as a thickener, gelling agent and / or shear thinning agent, and compositions containing same, which offers the advantage of being transparent, and this transparency persists even after mixing with other compounds, making it particularly sought after in the field of cosmetics. [Background technology]
[0002] Indeed, the transparent appearance of cosmetics is of commercial benefit as it assures customers of cleanliness and purity, and it also makes it easier for formulators to control the consistency of the cosmetic product.
[0003] Currently, transparent thickeners, gelling agents, and / or shear thinning agents used in cosmetics are polymer or molecular based and typically require heating to high temperatures (often above 110°C) to melt or become flowable.
[0004] However, when preparing cosmetics, the compounding temperature is limited to below 100°C due to the use of heat-sensitive compounds such as preservatives and some antioxidants, and the fact that water baths are commonly used for heating in this field.
[0005] Thus, there remains a need for thickeners, gelling agents and / or shear thinning agents that exhibit one or more, preferably all, of the following properties: - transparent; - Stable; - pourable at a temperature of 90°C, i.e. having a kinematic viscosity of less than 15,000 mPa.s at a shear rate of 10 s-1 at a temperature of 90°C; - Spreadable; - Compatible with various types of cosmetic compounds; Therefore, cosmetic formulators can manufacture cosmetics at temperatures up to 90°C. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0006] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that certain combinations may exhibit all of these properties with the added advantage of being in gel form at temperatures up to 50°C or higher, thus enabling the formulation of additional cosmetic products such as lipsticks that need to withstand temperatures up to 50°C. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] Therefore, the present invention provides -Dimer diol; Formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and are linear or branched alkyl groups containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms; at least 5% by weight of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters, wherein the fatty acids of the glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters are selected from the group consisting of butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof; and at least 3% by weight of ethylcellulose polymer; comprising or consisting of The dimer diol and branched primary alcohol of formula (I) are liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure; and for combinations wherein the total amount of said dimer diol and branched primary alcohol of formula (I) is at least 70% by weight (weight percentage is based on the weight of the combination). [Brief explanation of the drawings]
[0008] [Figure 1] FIG. 1 shows a diagram of the change in dynamic viscosity as a function of increasing and decreasing temperature applied to Combination 1 at a shear rate of 10 s −1 .
[0009] [Figure 2] FIG. 2 shows a diagram of the stress variation of combination 6 as a function of the applied shear rate. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0010] Dimer diols are mixtures of cyclic and acyclic isomers, as known to those skilled in the art. They are usually obtained by the following method: - dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids or their esters followed by reduction of the respective acid or ester groups to hydroxyl groups, or -Dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
[0011] Advantageously, the unsaturated fatty acid or its ester and the unsaturated fatty alcohol are monocarboxylic acids or esters and monoalcohols, respectively, and each hydrocarbon chain of the fatty acid or fatty alcohol contains 18 to 24, preferably 18 to 22, carbon atoms, and the dimer diol molecule preferably contains 36 to 48, more preferably 36 to 44, carbon atoms.
[0012] In this application, unless otherwise indicated, all ranges of values used should be understood to be inclusive limits.
[0013] Preferably, the dimer diol contains more than 50% by weight, more preferably more than 70% by weight, of acyclic isomers (weight percentages are given relative to the total weight of the dimer diol), where total weight of the dimer diol means the weight of all dimer diol molecules.
[0014] Advantageously, the dimer diol contains 36 carbon atoms. In particular, the dimer diol is prepared from an unsaturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty alcohol containing 18 carbon atoms.
[0015] In the branched primary alcohol of formula (I), the alkyl group is preferably a group consisting of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.
[0016] Preferably, the alkyl group R 1 and R 2 is saturated.
[0017] The alkyl group can be a propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl or octadecyl group, or any of their isomers.
[0018] Advantageously, the branched primary alcohols of formula (I) can be obtained by condensation of two primary alcohol monomers by Guerbet reaction.
[0019] The Guerbet reaction is well known in the art. It involves the condensation of two identical or different primary alcohol monomers with the elimination of water. It typically proceeds at a temperature of at least 120°C in the presence of a base such as NaOH or KOH and / or a catalyst such as palladium, nickel, copper, or zinc to form a primary alcohol dimer, which is a β-alkylated primary alcohol.
[0020] The primary alcohol monomers may be linear or branched.
[0021] Preferably, the primary alcohol monomer is not substituted by a heteroatom other than the oxygen of the hydroxyl group.
[0022] Preferably, the primary alcohol monomer is saturated.
[0023] If two identical primary alcohol monomers are used, the same R 1 and R 2 A branched primary alcohol of formula (I) having the formula:
[0024] When at least two different primary alcohol monomers are used, different R 1 and R 2A mixture of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) may be formed using at least one branched primary alcohol of formula (I) having the formula:
[0025] Preferably, the branched primary alcohol of formula (I) is derived from a primary alcohol monomer selected from the group consisting of pentanol, 3-methylbutanol, 2-methylbutanol, hexanol, 3-methylpentanol, 4-methylpentanol, heptanol, 2-ethylhexanol, octanol, nonanol, isononanol, decanol, isodecanol, undecanol, dodecanol, tridecanol, tetradecanol, pentadecanol, hexadecanol, heptadecanol, octadecanol, isooctadecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0026] Preferably, the branched primary alcohol of formula (I) is selected from the group consisting of 2-isopropyl-5-methylhexanol, 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-octyl-decanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-decanol, isohexatriacontanol and mixtures thereof.
[0027] Such a combination according to the invention is odorless and colorless and is therefore particularly suitable for use in cosmetics. Furthermore, this combination provides a particularly good skin feel.
[0028] Glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters are also called fatty acid monoglycerides.
[0029] The fatty acid of the glyceryl mono fatty acid ester may be saturated or unsaturated and preferably contains 4 to 24, more preferably 4 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0030] Combinations according to the present invention may include two or more glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters, such as a mixture of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters, each fatty acid independently containing from 4 to 24, more preferably from 4 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0031] Preferably, the fatty acid is straight chain.
[0032] In particular, the fatty acid of the glyceryl mono fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] The glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester may be liquid or solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.
[0034] Examples of such liquid glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters are glyceryl monobutyrate and glyceryl monocaproate.
[0035] Examples of such solid glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters are glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monocaprate, glyceryl monolaurate and glyceryl monooleate.
[0036] Ethyl cellulose polymers are derivatives of cellulose in which some of the hydroxyl groups on the repeating glucose units have been converted to ethoxyl groups. In particular, ethyl cellulose polymers have the following formula (I): [ka] [In the formula, -R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 are the same or different and represent H or CH2CH3, and -n (an integer) is at least 2.
[0037] Commercially available ethyl cellulose polymers have an ethoxyl content ranging from 45 to 51% by weight, preferably 48 to 49.5% by weight, based on the weight of the ethyl cellulose polymer. The ethyl cellulose polymer is characterized by its viscosity at 25°C when diluted to a concentration of 5% by weight based on the weight of the solution containing an 80:20 mixture of toluene and ethanol (w / w). Ethyl cellulose polymers having a viscosity of 4 mPa·s to 350 mPa·s, preferably 20 mPa·s to 300 mPa·s, more preferably 45 mPa·s to 200 mPa·s, and even more preferably about 100 mPa·s, can be used in the present invention.
[0038] Alternatively, a mixture of ethyl cellulose polymers having different viscosities can be used.
[0039] Preferably, the total amount of dimer diol and branched primary alcohol of formula (I) is at least 75% by weight, more preferably at least 80% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0040] "Total amount of dimer diol and branched primary alcohol of formula (I)" means the weight of all dimer diol and branched primary alcohol molecules of formula (I).
[0041] Preferably, the dimer diols and branched primary alcohols of formula (I) are liquid at 23°C, more preferably 20°C, and atmospheric pressure.
[0042] Advantageously, in the combination according to the invention, the weight ratio of total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) / amount of dimer diols is between 0.5 and 2.2.
[0043] Preferably, the amount of dimer diol is at least 25% by weight, more preferably at least 28% by weight, and even more preferably at least 30% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0044] Preferably, the amount of dimer diol is up to 50% by weight, more preferably up to 40% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0045] Preferably, the total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) is at least 25% by weight, more preferably at least 35% by weight, and even more preferably at least 40% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0046] Preferably, the total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) is at most 60% by weight, more preferably at most 55% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0047] "Total amount of branched primary alcohol of formula (I)" means the weight of all branched primary alcohol molecules of formula (I).
[0048] Preferably, the total amount of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters is at most 15% by weight, more preferably at most 12% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0049] Preferably, the total amount of glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester is comprised between 5 and 15% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 12% by weight, based on the weight of the combination.
[0050] The "total amount of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters" means the weight of all glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester molecules.
[0051] Preferably, the total amount of ethyl cellulose polymer is at least 4% by weight, more preferably at least 5% by weight, and even more preferably at least 6% by weight based on the weight of the combination.
[0052] Preferably, the total amount of ethyl cellulose polymer is at most 15% by weight, more preferably at most 10% by weight, and even more preferably at most 8% by weight based on the weight of the combination.
[0053] "Total amount of ethyl cellulose polymer" means the amount of all ethyl cellulose polymer molecules.
[0054] The total amount of ethyl cellulose polymer can be adjusted to the desired viscosity.
[0055] Preferably, the combination according to the invention comprises 4 to 15% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably 6 to 12% by weight of an ethyl cellulose polymer having a viscosity of 45 mPa.s to 200 mPa.s.
[0056] More specifically, the combination according to the invention comprises 5 to 10% by weight, preferably 6 to 8% by weight, of an ethyl cellulose polymer having a viscosity of 100 mPa·s.
[0057] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) to the amount of dimer diol is 1-2.
[0058] Preferably, the total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) is greater than the amount of dimer diol, so the combination according to the invention exhibits a better skin feel.
[0059] Therefore, the weight ratio of the total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) to the amount of dimer diol is preferably 1.2 to 1.8, more preferably 1.3 to 1.7, and even more preferably 1.4 to 1.6.
[0060] The ingredients in the combination have a synergistic effect.
[0061] At 25° C.±5° C., the combinations according to the present invention are liquid unless the combination is heated above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymers present in the combination. When a mixture of ethyl cellulose polymers is used, the mixture will remain liquid unless heated above the highest glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymers.
[0062] The present invention therefore also relates to the combination according to the invention which is in the form of a gel.
[0063] The combination according to the invention in the form of a transparent gel is stable over time, such as for at least 3 months at 20°C, preferably for at least 3 months at 60°C, as demonstrated in Example 2.3.1.
[0064] By stable, it is meant that there is no separation, such as the formation of a liquid layer of any component of the combination on top of the gel, and the appearance remains gel-like.
[0065] Furthermore, the gel-like combination is stable to temperature changes. The combination can be heated until the gel melts and becomes liquid, and upon cooling, the original viscosity and appearance are restored. As shown in Example 2.3.2, even after repeated heating and cooling steps, the appearance remains gel-like at room temperature.
[0066] Depending on the viscosity of the ethyl cellulose polymer and its amount in the combination, depending on the amount of dimer diol, and depending on the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester used, the combination according to the invention can be obtained in the form of a gel with a wide range of viscosities. -1 The kinematic viscosity of the combination in gel form at a shear rate of 100 Pa.s can exceed 100 Pa.s. However, as the temperature increases, the viscosity of the combination decreases, so it is possible to heat more viscous combinations, preferably at a temperature of about 80°C, to make them pourable, as shown in Example 2.2.
[0067] Preferred combinations in gel form include or consist of: - 25-40% by weight of dimer diol; - 40 to 60% by weight of branched primary alcohols of formula (I); - 5 to 15% by weight of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters; 3 to 15% by weight of an ethyl cellulose polymer, wherein the dimer diol and branched primary alcohol of formula (I) are liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure; and the total amount of the dimer diol and the branched primary alcohol of formula (I) is at least 70% by weight; The weight ratio of the total amount of branched primary alcohols of formula (I) to the amount of dimer diol is 1.2 to 1.8, preferably 1.3 to 1.7, and even more preferably 1.4 to 1.6 (% by weight is based on the total weight of the combination).
[0068] In a particularly preferred combination, the dimer diol contains 36 carbon atoms. Preferably, the ethyl cellulose polymer used in the particularly preferred combination according to the invention has a viscosity (as defined above) of 100 mPa.s.
[0069] The combination according to the invention exhibits several rheological properties, in particular it is shear thinning and thixotropic.
[0070] Shear thinning refers to a compound or mixture of compounds whose viscosity decreases when subjected to increasing stress, such as shear rate. The shear thinning properties of various combinations are shown in Table 4 of Example 2.4.
[0071] Thixotropy refers to a compound or mixture of compounds that exhibits a decrease in viscosity when exposed to an increasing shear rate and a recovery of viscosity when the shear is stopped. As shown in Figure 2, when the shear rate applied to the combination according to the present invention is decreased, the stress path returns to the initial shear stress value, which is characteristic of most thixotropic materials.
[0072] The combination according to the invention regains its initial viscosity and gel texture after shearing has ceased.
[0073] The present application also relates to a method of preparing a combination according to the present invention, comprising the step of mixing a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol, a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, and an ethyl cellulose polymer.
[0074] The present application also relates to a method for preparing the combination according to the present invention in the form of a gel, comprising the steps of heating the combination above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer, and then cooling the combination to form a transparent gel.
[0075] The dimer diol, the branched primary alcohol of formula (I), the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester and the ethyl cellulose polymer are as described above, including their preferred and advantageous features.
[0076] According to a first embodiment, the method for preparing the combination according to the invention in the form of a gel comprises the following steps: i) mixing a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol, a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, and an ethyl cellulose polymer to obtain a combination; ii) heating the combination with stirring at a temperature above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer; and iii) cooling the combination to obtain the combination in the form of a gel.
[0077] According to a second advantageous embodiment, the dimer diol, branched primary alcohol and glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester are heated until homogeneous before adding the ethyl cellulose polymer.
[0078] According to this second embodiment, the gel exhibits a higher viscosity than that obtained according to the first embodiment.
[0079] The present invention therefore relates to a method for preparing a combination in the form of a gel according to the invention, comprising the steps of: i) mixing a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol, and a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester at a temperature of at least 40°C; ii) adding ethyl cellulose polymer to obtain the combination; iii) heating the mixture with stirring above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer; and iv) Cooling the combination to obtain a combination in the form of a gel.
[0080] In step i), the temperature is adjusted depending on the melting point of the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester used and must be higher than the melting point of the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, or, if a mixture of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters is used, higher than the highest melting point of the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester.
[0081] Step i) is preferably carried out until all ingredients are completely solubilized and homogeneously mixed.
[0082] The addition of the ethyl cellulose polymer in step ii) is preferably not done all at once, but is preferably added over a predetermined period of time, either by continuous addition over a period of time, or by discontinuous addition, i.e., by at least two additions spaced apart by a period of time.
[0083] When two or more ethyl cellulose polymers are used in combination, step iii) is carried out at a temperature above the highest glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymers.
[0084] Step iii) is preferably carried out until all the ethyl cellulose polymer is completely solubilized.
[0085] In step iv), the combination is cooled, preferably at a rate of 0.6°C / min or less. This slow cooling is controlled until the temperature reaches 60°C, preferably to 50°C, more preferably to 45°C.
[0086] Step iv) is preferably carried out without stirring, or, if the viscosity is higher than 25000 mPa.s, the stirring is reduced to avoid the incorporation of air bubbles.
[0087] The combination can be shaken while cooling to remove air bubbles.
[0088] In addition to the advantage of being transparent, the combination according to the invention in gel form exhibits shear thinning and thixotropy.
[0089] The combination of the present invention can therefore be advantageously applied in cosmetic products such as thickeners, gelling agents and / or shear thinning agents.
[0090] The present invention also relates to the use of the combination of the present invention as a thickener.
[0091] This combination is capable of thickening liquid compounds, in particular liquid organic compounds and / or liquid silicones.
[0092] The present invention therefore also relates to a method for increasing the viscosity of a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone by mixing the combination according to the invention with the liquid organic compound and / or the liquid silicone.
[0093] The liquid organic compound and / or the liquid silicone is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.
[0094] The liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester referred to in the combination according to the invention.
[0095] The liquid organic compound contains carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally contains acid, alcohol, ester, ether, ketone and / or nitrile groups.
[0096] Thus, the liquid organic compound may be a mineral oil, a terpene, a fatty acid, an alcohol (other than a dimer diol of the combination according to the invention, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester), an ester, or a compound containing at least two different functional groups.
[0097] Preferably, the liquid organic compounds and liquid silicones are selected from among compounds used in the cosmetics field.
[0098] In particular, the liquid silicone may be an emollient, and the liquid organic compound may be a moisturizer, an emulsifier, an emollient, an organic UV filter, an insect repellent, a fragrance, or a mixture thereof.
[0099] More specifically, the humectant is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, glycerol, and 1,3 butylene glycol.
[0100] More specifically, the emulsifier is selected from the group consisting of polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, mono- and diglyceride C18 unsaturated citrates, and sorbitan monooleate.
[0101] More specifically, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of triolein, isoamyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, medium chain triglycerides (MCT), high liquid paraffin, octyldodecanol, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and caprylyl methicone.
[0102] More specifically, the organic UV filter is selected from the group consisting of octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate and ethylhexyl salicylate.
[0103] More specifically, the insect repellent is selected from the group consisting of ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate, citronellol, geraniol, and citronella.
[0104] Thus, the liquid organic compound is preferably selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3 butylene glycol, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, C18 unsaturated mono- and diglycerides of citric acid, sorbitan monooleate, triolein, isoamyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, medium chain triglycerides (MCT), high liquid paraffin, octyldodecanol, caprylyl methicone, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate, citronellol, geraniol, citronella, and mixtures thereof.
[0105] Therefore, the liquid silicone is preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane and caprylyl methicone.
[0106] The present invention also relates to the use of the combination according to the invention as a shear thinning agent.
[0107] When the combination according to the invention is mixed with a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone, the resulting gel composition exhibits shear thinning properties.
[0108] The present invention therefore also relates to a method for reducing the viscosity under convoy stress of liquid organic compounds and / or liquid silicones by mixing a combination according to the invention with said liquid organic compounds and / or liquid silicones.
[0109] Advantageously, the combination according to the invention exhibits both properties and can be used as a thickener and a shear thinning agent, and therefore can be used as a rheology modifier.
[0110] The present invention also relates to the use of the combination according to the invention as a gelling agent.
[0111] The present invention also relates to a method for gelling a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone, which method comprises the steps of mixing the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 with the liquid organic compound and / or the liquid silicone and heating the mixture.
[0112] The resulting gel is clear.
[0113] According to a first embodiment of the method (viscosity increase, viscosity decrease under shear stress, gelation), the combination according to the invention is not in the form of a gel. This combination is first mixed with a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone to obtain a composition, which is then further heated above the glass transition temperature of the ethylcellulose polymer present in the combination, or above the highest glass transition temperature of the ethylcellulose polymers present in the combination if two or more ethylcellulose polymers are used.
[0114] According to a second embodiment of the method, the combination according to the invention is in the form of a gel. The combination is then mixed with a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone at a temperature of at least 50°C until a homogeneous composition is obtained, and the temperature is then lowered to obtain a gel-like composition.
[0115] Preferably the temperature is below 90°C.
[0116] Preferably the temperature is between 50 and 90°C.
[0117] This embodiment is more suitable for heat-sensitive compounds as temperatures do not need to exceed 90°C.
[0118] In the above process, the weight ratio of the combination according to the invention / liquid organic compound is preferably at least 10 / 90, more preferably at least 20 / 80, even more preferably at least 50 / 50.
[0119] In the above process, the weight ratio of the combination according to the invention / liquid silicone is preferably at least 50 / 50, more preferably at least 60 / 40.
[0120] The present invention also relates to a composition in the form of a gel comprising the combination according to the invention, a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone and / or a solid compound.
[0121] The dimer diol, branched primary alcohol of formula (I), glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester and ethyl cellulose polymer are as described above, including their preferred and advantageous features.
[0122] The liquid organic compound is as described above, including its preferred characteristics.
[0123] In particular, the liquid organic compound is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3 butylene glycol, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, C18 unsaturated mono- and diglycerides of citric acid, sorbitan monooleate, triolein, isoamyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, medium chain triglycerides (MCT), high liquid paraffin, octyldodecanol, caprylyl methicone, octocrylene, octyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate, citronellol, geraniol, citronella, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] This solid compound is not a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester.
[0125] The solid compound may be a pigment, a UV filter, a gelling agent other than the combination according to the invention, or a salt.
[0126] More specifically, the pigment is selected from pigments commonly used in cosmetics, such as titanium dioxide, effervescent powder, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium, and the like.
[0127] More particularly, the UV filter is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and benzophenone-3.
[0128] More specifically, the gelling agent other than the combination according to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide and dibutyl lauroyl glutamide.
[0129] More specifically, the salts are selected from the group consisting of aluminum, zinc, sodium, magnesium, iodine, bromide, calcium and potassium salts.
[0130] In particular, the solid compound is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, effervescent powder, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzophenone-3, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the solid compound is a gelling agent other than the combination according to the invention.
[0132] Preferably, the gelling agent other than the combination according to the present invention is an alkyl glutamide.
[0133] The composition obtained is then in the form of a transparent stick, i.e. a transparent hard gel, as described in Example 2.3.
[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of alkyl glutamides, in particular dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide and dibutyl lauroyl glutamide.
[0135] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a liquid organic compound and a solid compound.
[0136] Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the combination according to the invention, a liquid alcohol, preferably octyldodecanol, and an alkyl glutamide, preferably dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide and dibutyl lauroyl glutamide.
[0137] Preferably, the weight ratio of the combination according to the present invention to alkyl glutamide is 80 / 20 to 20 / 80, more preferably 80 / 20 to 50 / 50.
[0138] The composition spreads easily on the skin and provides excellent results.
[0139] In practice, its consistency is preferably 15 to 65 Nmm, more preferably 20 to 60 Nmm, and its hardness is preferably 10 to 65 N, more preferably 12 to 60 N.
[0140] More specifically, the composition exhibits a consistency of 50 to 65 Nmm and a hardness of 12 to 20 N.
[0141] To obtain a composition according to the invention in the form of a gel, the combination according to the invention is mixed with a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone and / or a solid compound.
[0142] According to a first embodiment, the combination according to the invention is not in the form of a gel before being mixed with the liquid organic compound, the liquid silicone and / or the solid compound, and therefore it is necessary to heat the composition above the glass transition temperature of the ethylcellulose polymer present in the combination, or, if two or more ethylcellulose polymers are used, above the highest glass transition temperature of the ethylcellulose polymers present in the combination.
[0143] According to a second embodiment, the combination according to the invention is in the form of a gel before being mixed with the liquid organic compound, the liquid silicone and / or the solid compound.
[0144] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a composition in the form of a gel, comprising the steps of: i) mixing the combination according to the invention (not in the form of a gel) with a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone, a solid compound or a mixture thereof to obtain a composition; ii) heating the composition to a temperature above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer present in the combination; iii) cooling the composition to obtain a composition in the form of a gel.
[0145] The dimer diol, branched primary alcohol of formula (I), glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, ethyl cellulose polymer, liquid organic compound, liquid silicone and solid compound are as described above, including their preferred and advantageous features.
[0146] In step ii), if two or more ethyl cellulose polymers are used, the composition is heated at a temperature above the highest glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymers present in the combination.
[0147] The composition is preferably maintained at this temperature until all of the ethyl cellulose polymer is completely solubilized.
[0148] In step iii) the temperature is preferably cooled at a rate of 0.6°C / min or less until a temperature of 45°C, preferably 40°C, more preferably 35°C is reached.
[0149] The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a composition in the form of a gel, comprising the steps of: i) bringing the combination in the form of a gel according to the invention to a temperature of at least 60°C; ii) mixing the combination with a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone, a solid compound, or a mixture thereof; iii) cooling the composition to obtain a composition in the form of a gel.
[0150] The dimer diol, the branched primary alcohol of formula (I), the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester and the ethyl cellulose polymer are as described above, including their preferred and advantageous features.
[0151] Step ii) is preferably carried out at a temperature below 90° C., more preferably below 80° C. In particular, the temperature is between 60° C. and 90° C. Step ii) is preferably carried out until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
[0152] The method for preparing a composition in gel form can include preparing a combination in gel form according to the method described above, and then stopping the cooling of the combination in step iv) of the method for preparing a combination in gel form at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably 60 to 90°C, and starting step ii) of the method for preparing a composition in gel form.
[0153] The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as a cosmetic product.
[0154] Cosmetics can be in the form of gels with a range of viscosities.
[0155] The cosmetic product may be an anhydrous formulation.
[0156] The cosmetic product may be a make-up, skin product, or hair product, such as eye shadow, lipstick, lip gloss, eyeliner, lip liner, make-up remover, face and body glitter gel, face and / or body paint, gelling baby oil, massage oil, deodorant, sunscreen product, insect repellent product, cleansing product, cream, diaper stick, perfume stick, or hair conditioner. [Example]
[0157] Materials used in the examples: Liquid dimer diol: Radianol 1991 (DD C36) from Oleon, which is a mixture of dimer diol isomers containing 36 carbon atoms, obtained from the dimerization of C18 fatty acids, in which the content of linear isomers is 76% by weight, based on the weight of the mixture; liquid branched primary alcohols (or Guerbet alcohols) of formula (I): o 2-Isopropyl-5-methylhexanol (isoC10): obtained from isoamyl alcohol; Isofol 18T (C16-20) from Sasol, a mixture of 2-octyl-dodecanol (27-33 wt%), 2-octyl-decanol (23-27 wt%), 2-hexyl-dodecanol (23-27 wt%) and 2-hexyl-decanol (15-20 wt%); o Isohexatriacontanol (isoC36): derived from isostearyl alcohol;
[0158] Preparation of Guerbet Alcohols : 2-Isopropyl-5-methylhexanol (isoC10) and isohexatriacontanol (isoC36) were prepared from the above primary alcohols according to the Guerbet reaction. Such a reaction is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,518,810, using potassium hydroxide as the base and palladium as the catalyst. The reaction medium was heated to its respective boiling point.
[0159] Each crude reaction mixture was washed several times with demineralized water to remove all soaps. The washed product was then filtered and dried under vacuum. The remaining starting primary alcohols were separated by distillation. Each Guerbet alcohol was then isolated by distillation.
[0160] The purity of the Guerbet alcohols thus obtained was 98% by weight ±1.
[0161] - Glyceryl monoester of fatty acids: o Glyceryl monocaprylate (GMC8), Jolee 7907 from Oleon; o Glyceryl monolaurate (GMC12), Radia 7908 from Oleon; o Glyceryl monocaprate (GMC10) prepared according to the following protocol:
[0162] 673 g of capric acid, 398 g of glycerol, and 0.2 g of calcium hydroxide as a catalyst were charged into a 1 L reactor equipped with a mechanical stirring paddle, a temperature sensor, a Vigreux column, and a condenser. Water was removed from the reactor during the reaction. The reaction medium was mixed at 300 rpm and gradually heated to 230 °C under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen) until an acid value of approximately 3 mg KOH / g was obtained. The acid value was measured according to standard AOCS Cd 3D-63. The temperature was then reduced to 210 °C, and 0.33 g of phosphoric acid was added to neutralize the catalyst. After 20 minutes, the reaction medium was cooled to room temperature. Excess glycerol and diglycerides and triglycerides were removed by distillation to obtain monoglyceride of capric acid or glyceryl monocaprate with a purity of 72.7% by weight.
[0163] o Glyceryl monobutyrate (C4), capric acid (C8), caprylic acid (C10) and lauric acid (C12), (GMC4-12), Radamuls 2101V from Oleon, a liquid mixture of 5-15 wt% C4, 24-34 wt% C8, 20-30 wt% C10 and 30-40 wt% C12;
[0164] - Ethyl cellulose polymer: o Ethocel Standard 20 Premium (EC 20 Premium); o Ethocel Standard 45 Premium (EC 45 Premium); o Ethocel Std.100 Premium (EC 100 Prem); o Ethocel Standard 200 (EC200); where the numbers in the product names indicate the viscosity at 25°C of a 5 wt% solution of Ethocel in a solvent, based on the weight of the solution, consisting of 80% toluene and 20% ethanol by weight; all are from Dow Chemical Company.
[0165] Example 1: Preparation of a combination according to the invention in the form of a gel The dimer diol, the branched primary alcohol of formula (I), and the glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester were mixed under mechanical stirring and heated to 80° C. At this temperature, the viscosity is low enough to generate a vortex within the liquid.
[0166] The ethyl cellulose polymer was added portionwise to the vortex.
[0167] The temperature was then increased above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer (158° C. using EC 100 Prem).
[0168] Once the mixture was completely dissolved and clear, it was cooled to room temperature.
[0169] A clear gel was obtained.
[0170] The dimer diol, branched primary alcohol of formula (I), glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, and ethyl cellulose polymer used in each combination are identified in Table 1 below in their respective amounts in weight percent based on the weight of the composition.
[0171] [Table 1]
[0172] Example 2: Characterization of the combination according to the invention in gel form As mentioned above, all combinations 1 to 12 according to the present invention are transparent.
[0173] 2.1 25°C and shear rate 10 s -1 Dynamic viscosity at The dynamic viscosity of each combination was measured using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-1 rheometer using a cone-plate system with a cone SST ST 40MM 2DEG Smart Swap, angle 2:00:03°, and truncation of 58 μm. For each combination, the dynamic viscosity was measured at a shear rate of 10 s for 24 hours after preparation. -1 , measured at a temperature of 25°C.
[0174] The results are shown in Table 2 below.
[0175] [Table 2]
[0176] It can be observed that the kinematic viscosity of the combination according to the invention depends on the amount of each of its components.
[0177] Thus, the kinematic viscosity decreases when the amount of dimer diol is reduced, when the amount of ethyl cellulose polymer is reduced (comparing combinations 1 and 10), and when the number of carbon atoms contained in the fatty acid of the glycerin mono-fatty acid ester is reduced (comparing combinations 1, 5, and 6).
[0178] 2.2 Relationship between kinematic viscosity and temperature Kinematic viscosity was measured using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-1 rheometer using a cone-plate system with cone SST ST 40MM 2DEG Smart Swap, angle 1:59:50°, and truncation 53 μm.
[0179] For each combination, the dynamic viscosity was measured at a shear rate of 10 s for 24 hours after preparation. -1The temperature was measured by increasing from 20 to 80°C at 1°C per minute. The measurement could be stopped before reaching 80°C, once the kinematic viscosity fell below 15000 mPa.s. In fact, below 15000 mPa.s the mixture was no longer a gel and would flow away as soon as the beaker was tilted.
[0180] The results are shown in Table 3 below.
[0181] [Table 3]
[0182] It can be observed that all combinations except combination 7, which contains a low viscosity ethyl cellulose polymer, have a kinematic viscosity at a shear rate of 10 s-1 greater than 15000 mPa·s at 50 °C, which means that the combinations are still in the form of gels even at 50 °C.
[0183] Furthermore, the shear rate for all combinations was 10 s -1 The kinematic viscosity at 70°C is less than 15,000 mPa.s, meaning that the combination is pourable at 70°C and does not need to be heated to high temperatures for use in cosmetics.
[0184] 2.3 stability 2.3.1 Over time Combinations 1–10 are all stable at room temperature, i.e., no sweating or top separation is observed on the gel after at least 6 months.
[0185] Combinations 1 and 6 were left at a temperature of 60°C for 3 months, but no sweating or top separation was observed once the combinations were cooled to room temperature and the initial viscosity was restored.
[0186] The combination according to the invention in the form of a gel is therefore stable over time.
[0187] 2.3.2 With respect to temperature changes In this study, the kinematic viscosity was measured using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-1 rheometer using a cone-plate system with cone SST ST 40MM 2DEG Smart Swap, angle 1:59:50°, and truncation 53 μm.
[0188] Combination 1 is 10s -1 The samples were subjected to a shear rate of 100 s, and scanned by increasing the temperature from 25 °C to 80 °C, and then decreasing the temperature from 80 °C to 25 °C. Thus, combination 1 was subjected to three cycles of heating to 80 °C, followed by cooling to 25 °C. The resulting kinematic viscosity curves are shown in Figure 1, where ramps 1 and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 and 6 correspond to the three cycles of heating (ramps 1, 3, and 5) and cooling (ramps 2, 4, and 6).
[0189] The combination according to the invention has a kinematic viscosity of less than 10 Pa·s at 80° C. each time, which means that it is pourable at such temperatures.
[0190] Furthermore, the combination according to the present invention regained its initial viscosity and gel shape at 25°C even after several heating and cooling cycles.
[0191] This demonstrates the stability of the gel to repeated heating and cooling and its ability to reconstitute its structure after it loses it at 80°C.
[0192] 2.4 shear thinning The kinematic viscosity of combinations 1 and 6 was measured using a TA Instruments Discovery HR-1 rheometer using a cone-plate system with a cone SST ST 40MM 2DEG Smart Swap, angle 1:59:50°, truncation 53 μm.
[0193] For the combination, the viscosity was measured to be 0.1 s over 240 s. -1From the 300s -1 When exposed to low shear rates up to 24 hours after preparation at 25°C, the viscosity was measured on a logarithmic scale (a value close to zero corresponding to a Newtonian plateau, called "zero shear rate" viscosity) (i.e., constant viscosity).
[0194] The results are shown in Table 4 below.
[0195] [Table 4]
[0196] Here it can be observed that as the shear rate increases the dynamic viscosity of the combination decreases.
[0197] The combination according to the present invention is shear thinning.
[0198] 2.5 Thixotropy For this test, the same rheometer as previously described in Example 2.4 was used. Combination 6 according to the present invention had a rheometer of 0.1 s -1 From the 300s -1 and then subjected to a shear rate equivalent to an increase to 300 s -1 to 0.1 seconds -1 This corresponded to a decrease in the shear stress. The resulting curves, shown in Figure 2, show the change in stress as a function of shear. It can be observed that the downward flow curve follows the same path as the upward flow curve. This means that the gel structure remains the same. Combination 6 is thixotropic.
[0199] 2.6 consistency and hardness Consistency is a measure of the ease of penetration by a foreign object, here a cylindrical probe.
[0200] Hardness is a measure of the resistance of a material (here a combination) to penetration by a foreign object, here a cylindrical probe.
[0201] Consistency and hardness were measured using a Lloyd Instruments / Ametek TA1 Texture Analyzer and Nexygen Plus V3 software with the following characteristics: probe cylinder diameter 12 mm, probe area 113.1 mm 2 , preload 0.2N (zero point), speed towards zero point 100mm / min, speed during measurement 20mm / min, depth 5mm, maximum force 50N, and temperature 22℃.
[0202] The results are shown in Table 5 below.
[0203] [Table 5]
[0204] Comparing combinations 1 and 10, it can be observed that by reducing the amount of ethyl cellulose polymer, the viscosity of the resulting gel decreases, with the consistency and hardness values decreasing as well.
[0205] As the viscosity of the ethyl cellulose increases from 100 to 20 mPa.s, the consistency and hardness also decrease (combinations 1 and 7-8), and surprisingly, EC200 has lower consistency and hardness than EC100Prem (combinations 1 and 9).
[0206] The viscosity and hardness also depend on the amount of branched primary alcohol of formula (I): the higher the amount, the higher the viscosity and hardness.
[0207] The viscosity and hardness also depend on the number of carbon atoms in the branched primary alcohol of formula (I); the greater the number of carbon atoms, the higher the viscosity and hardness (combinations 1 to 3).
[0208] As the amount of glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester increases, the consistency and hardness decreases.
[0209] Depending on the intended application, one skilled in the art can adapt the amounts of ethyl cellulose polymer, branched primary alcohol of formula (I), and glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester to achieve the desired viscosity, consistency, and hardness.
[0210] Example 3: Composition according to the invention 3.1 In the case of liquid organic compounds 3.1.1 emollients Various compositions were prepared by mixing Combination 1 with the following in different weight ratios of Combination 1 / emollient according to the invention at a temperature of 80°C until homogeneous: -Ester o Glyceryl trioleate, Radia 7363 from Oleon; o Isoamyl laurate, Jolee 7750 from Oleon; o Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Radia 7208 from Oleon; o Caprylic / capric triglyceride, Radia 7104 from Oleon; - Mineral oil: high-fluidity paraffin from Merck; - Silicone oil: Caprylyl Methicone, Microcare Silicone M8100 from Thor.
[0211] In fact, all of the liquid organic compounds tested when mixed in the combination according to the present invention resulted in a homogeneous composition.
[0212] All compositions prepared in this manner, when cooled to room temperature, showed a significant increase in viscosity while maintaining a clear appearance.
[0213] The kinematic viscosity of the compositions thus prepared was measured one day after preparation according to the method described in Example 2.1.
[0214] The results are summarized in Tables 6 and 7 below.
[0215] [Table 6]
[0216] [Table 7]
[0217] It can be observed that the combination according to the invention is able to thicken different emollients such as esters, mineral oils and silicone oils that are frequently used in cosmetic formulations. Depending on the ratios used, it is possible to prepare compositions with low to high viscosity.
[0218] Two gel compositions were also prepared according to the same method using 75% by weight of Combination 6 and 25% by weight of either silicone oil or paraffin oil. Both gel compositions thus obtained are shear thinning, as shown by the decreasing viscosity values obtained by subjecting the compositions to increasing shear stress (Table 8 below).
[0219] [Table 8]
[0220] 3.1.2 Moisturizers and emulsifiers A composition was prepared by mixing 10% by weight of the following with 90% by weight of Combination 1 according to the invention at 80°C until homogeneous (weight percentages are based on the weight of the composition): - Polar moisturizers: o Propylene glycol, Radianol 4710 from Oleon; o1,3 butylene glycol, from Daicel Corporation; or - Polar emulsifiers: o Polysorbate 20, Radamuls SORB 2137K from Oleon; o Polysorbate 80, Radamuls SORB 2157K from Oleon; o Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Jolee 7245 from Oleon; o Mono- and diglycerides C18 unsaturated citrate, Radamuls Citrem 2935K from Oleon; o Sorbitan monooleate, Radia 2155 from Oleon.
[0221] After cooling to room temperature, all the compositions thus obtained were in the form of a clear gel.
[0222] The combination according to the invention can also be homogeneously mixed with polar compounds such as alcohols and esters used in this example and can also be used as a gelling agent together with such compounds.
[0223] Such clear gels formed by mixing the combination with a polar emulsifier can be further emulsified with water, such as during skin cleansing.
[0224] After leaving it at room temperature for 1 day, each composition was subjected to 25°C and 10s incubation according to the method described in Example 2.1. -1 The kinematic viscosity at shear rates of 1000 sq. ft. was measured. The results are summarized in Table 9 below.
[0225] [Table 9]
[0226] 3.1.3 insect repellent The compositions were prepared by mixing 80% by weight of 1 and 20% by weight of the insect repellents, ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate (IR3535 from Merck) and citronella from VWR Chemical Co., respectively, at 80°C until homogeneous. After cooling, gels were obtained. Their kinematic viscosities were measured according to the method described in Example 2.1, and the results are summarized in Table 10 below.
[0227] [Table 10]
[0228] The resulting composition was easily spreadable on the skin. In this way, it is also possible to produce a gelled insect repellent.
[0229] 3.1.4 Organic UV Filters The compositions were prepared by mixing 90% by weight of combination 1 according to the invention and 10% by weight of an organic UV filter with the following ingredients at 80°C until homogeneous: - octyl methoxycinnamate, Eusolex 2292 from Merck; - Octocrylene, Eusolex OCR from Merck; - Homosalate, Eusolex HMS from Merck; - Ethylhexyl salicylate, Eusolex OS from Merck.
[0230] All compositions prepared in this manner were clear gels at 25°C.
[0231] Thus, it is possible to prepare a gelled sunscreen composition.
[0232] 3.2 For solid compounds 3.2.1 Solid Organic UV Filters A composition was prepared by mixing 90% by weight of combination 1 according to the invention and 10% by weight of the solid organic UV filter, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Eusolex 9020 from Merck, at 80° C. until homogeneous.
[0233] After cooling to room temperature, an opaque gel was obtained.
[0234] This example demonstrates that it is possible to form transparent compositions containing uniformly dispersed solid organic UV filters.
[0235] 3.2.2 pigment A composition was prepared by mixing 20% by weight of Combination 1 with 30% by weight of propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (Radia 7208 from Oleon) at 80° C., then adding 50% by weight of the pigment titanium dioxide from Acros Organics. The composition was stirred at 80° C. until homogeneous and then allowed to cool to room temperature.
[0236] A transparent gel was obtained with the pigments uniformly dispersed.
[0237] Measured as described in Example 2.1 at 25°C and a shear rate of 10 s -1 The kinematic viscosity at 16150 mPa.s was found to be 16150 mPa.s.
[0238] This example shows the good compatibility of the combination according to the invention with powders, which gives rise to the possibility of using the combination according to the invention in color cosmetics.
[0239] 3.3 When using a gelling agent A composition was prepared by mixing 75 wt. % Combination 6 with 25 wt. % of AJK-OD2046, a gelling agent manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., consisting of 8 wt. % dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide, 12 wt. % dibutyl lauroyl glutamide, and 80 wt. % octyldodecanol, at 80° C. until homogeneous.
[0240] After cooling, a clear stick (consistent, hard composition) was obtained.
[0241] Kinematic viscosity was measured according to the method described in Example 2.1, and consistency and hardness were measured according to the method described in Example 2.6. The properties of the resulting sticks are summarized in Table 11.
[0242] [Table 11]
[0243] Comparing the consistency values of Combination 6 and the stick, it can be observed that the addition of 25 wt.% gelling agent to 75 wt.% Combination 6 significantly increased those values.
[0244] This high consistency (57.9 Nmm) means that the structure of the composition is more compact than that of the gel-form combination.
[0245] The stick thus obtained, when applied to the skin, presents a solid appearance with very good spreadability and very good effectiveness. Indeed, the benefits are easily controlled.
[0246] The kinematic viscosity increased slightly compared to that of Combination 8, but was still about 50000 mPa.s at 40°C, meaning that the stick did not melt at 40°C.
[0247] The stick can be used to prepare cosmetic sticks for application to skin make-up, perfume, deodorant, skin / lip care, UV filters or insect repellents.
[0248] Example 4: Cosmetic product according to the present invention 4.1 Gelling baby oil Gelled baby oil was prepared by mixing Combination 1 with the following liquid organic compounds at 80°C until homogeneous: - the aforementioned isoamyl laurate; - Glycerin: Glycerin 4810 from Oleon; - Isopropyl palmitate: Radia 7732 from Oleon; - Antibacterial: Phenonip from Clariant; - Perfume: Avallon code zz13419 from SGP Selin.
[0249] The amounts of each compound are listed in Table 12 below.
[0250] Upon cooling to room temperature, a clear gel with good skin feel was obtained.
[0251] [Table 12]
[0252] Measured as described in Example 2.1 at 25°C and 10 s -1 The dynamic viscosity at a shear rate of 23483 mPa.s was found to be 23483 mPa.s.
[0253] 4.2 Makeup remover Makeup removers were prepared by mixing Combination 1 with the following liquid organic compounds at 80°C until homogeneous: - Triheptanoin: Radia 2375 from Oleon; - Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Radia 7208 from Oleon; - Isoamyl laurate, Jolee 7750 from Oleon.
[0254] The amounts of each compound are listed in Table 13 below.
[0255] [Table 13]
[0256] Measured as described in Example 2.1 at 25°C and 10 s -1 The dynamic viscosity at a shear rate of 1000 kJ / min was 6453 mPa.s.
[0257] The resulting makeup remover feels good on the skin and spreads easily.
[0258] 4.3 sunscreen products By mixing some of the aforementioned liquid and solid organic UV filters with the combination according to the invention (used as a thickener) and an emollient, transparent compositions with a wide SPF and UV spectrum range can also be obtained, as shown by the sunscreen compositions whose contents are listed in Table 14 below.
[0259] [Table 14]
[0260] Measured as described in Example 2.1 at 25°C and 10 s -1 The kinematic viscosity at shear rate was 8502 mPa.s for SPF 25 and 12346 mPa.s for SPF 50.
[0261] Both sunscreen compositions spread easily on the skin.
[0262] 4.4 Face and body glitter gel A face and body gel was prepared by mixing propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (Radia 7208 from Oleon) and Colorona Glitter Bronze from Merck, a golden brown sparkling powder, Combine 1, at 80°C until homogeneous, according to the amounts listed in Table 15.
[0263] [Table 15]
[0264] At room temperature, the cosmetic product was in the form of a gel containing well-dispersed sparkling powder, which resulted in a glossy product with a uniform color reflection and easy spreadability on the skin.
[0265] Measured as described in Example 2.1 at 25°C and 10 s -1 The dynamic viscosity at a shear rate of 59594 mPa.s was 59594 mPa.s. The cosmetic spreads well on the skin.
[0266] Example 5: Comparison of combinations and their characteristics 5.1 Preparation of Comparative Combinations 1 and 2 Comparative Combination 1 was prepared according to the method described in Example 1 using 32.8 wt% DD C36, 49.2 wt% iso C36, 10 wt% glyceryl monostearate and 8 wt% EC 100 Prem.
[0267] A cloudy, non-transparent gel was obtained.
[0268] Comparative Combination 2 was prepared according to the method described in Example 1 using 35.6 wt% DD C36, 52.4 wt% iso C36, 6 wt% mixture of dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide and dibutyl lauroyl glutamide (4 wt% EB-21 and 6 wt% Ajinomoto GP-1 6), and 6 wt% EC 100 Prem.
[0269] Dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide and dibutyl lauroyl glutamide are gelling and thickening agents commonly used in cosmetics, especially lipsticks.
[0270] A gel was obtained.
[0271] 5.2 Relationship between kinematic viscosity and temperature for comparison combination 2 The kinematic viscosity was measured according to the method described in Example 2.1.
[0272] The results are shown in Table 16 below.
[0273] [Table 16]
[0274] Comparative combination 2, which contains a mixture of gelling agents instead of glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, exhibits a 10s -1It shows a gel with a high dynamic viscosity (greater than 150,000 mPa·s) at a shear rate of 100°C, but at 50°C the dynamic viscosity is significantly reduced to less than 15,000 mPa·s, meaning that comparative combination 2 is no longer a gel.
Claims
1. - dimer diol; Formula (I): 【Chemistry 1】 [In the formula, R 1 and R 2 may be the same or different and are linear or branched alkyl groups containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms; - at least 5% by weight of glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters, wherein the fatty acids of said glyceryl mono-fatty acid esters are selected from the group consisting of butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof; and - at least 3% by weight of ethylcellulose polymer; A combination comprising or consisting of The dimer diol and branched primary alcohol of formula (I) are liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure; and the total amount of the dimer diol and the branched primary alcohol of formula (I) is at least 70% by weight (weight percentage is based on the weight of the combination); combination.
2. 2. The combination of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of the branched primary alcohols of formula (I) to the amount of the dimer diol is 0.5 to 2.
2.
3. 3. The combination according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the combination is in the form of a gel.
4. 4. A method for preparing the gel-form combination of claim 3, comprising the steps of: i) mixing a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol, and a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester at a temperature of at least 40°C; ii) adding ethyl cellulose polymer to obtain the combination; iii) heating the combination under agitation at a temperature above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer; and iv) cooling said combination to obtain a combination in the form of a gel.
5. Use of the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a thickening agent.
6. A method for increasing the viscosity of a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone by mixing the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 with the liquid organic compound and / or the liquid silicone, wherein the liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester.
7. Use of a combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a shear thinning agent.
8. A method for reducing the viscosity of a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone under shear stress by mixing the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 with the liquid organic compound and / or the liquid silicone, wherein the liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester.
9. Use of the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a gelling agent.
10. A method for gelling a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone, comprising the step of mixing and heating the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 with a liquid organic compound and / or a liquid silicone, wherein the liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester.
11. A composition in the form of a gel, comprising the combination according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone and / or a solid compound, wherein the liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, and the solid compound is not a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester.
12. The composition described in claim 11, wherein the solid compound is a gelling agent other than the combination described in any one of claims 1 to 3.
13. 1. A method for preparing a composition in the form of a gel, comprising the steps of: i) mixing the combination according to claim 1 or 2 with a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone, a solid compound or a mixture thereof to obtain a composition, wherein the liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, and the solid compound is not a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester; ii) heating the composition to a temperature above the glass transition temperature of the ethyl cellulose polymer present in the combination; iii) cooling said composition to obtain a composition in the form of a gel.
14. 1. A method for preparing a composition in the form of a gel, comprising the steps of: i) bringing the gel-form combination of claim 3 to a temperature of at least 60°C; ii) mixing the combination with a liquid organic compound, a liquid silicone, a solid compound, or a mixture thereof, wherein the liquid organic compound is not a dimer diol, a branched primary alcohol of formula (I), or a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester, and the solid compound is not a glyceryl mono-fatty acid ester; iii) cooling said composition to obtain a composition in the form of a gel.
15. 13. Use of a composition according to claim 11 or 12 as a cosmetic product.
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