Water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics
The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic composition, featuring specific waxes and resins, addresses stability and adhesion issues by enhancing adhesion and durability, ensuring a smooth feel and long-lasting curl.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-01-24
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics face issues with poor storage stability, adhesion to eyelashes, and cosmetic durability, such as curl retention and resistance to smudging, despite previous attempts to improve these properties.
A water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic composition incorporating animal or vegetable waxes with a melting point of 60 to 90°C, a polar resin solid at 25°C, dextrin fatty acid ester, and a specific nonionic surfactant, along with optional components like hydrocarbon and silicone oils, to enhance adhesion, curl retention, and stability.
The composition provides a smooth feel, excellent adhesion, and long-lasting cosmetic effects with improved storage stability, curl retention, and resistance to smudging, while maintaining emulsification properties.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes. [Background technology]
[0002] Eyelash cosmetics have cosmetic effects that enhance the appearance of the eyes, such as curling eyelashes upward and adding volume to make them appear thicker and fuller. Their main components are solid fats, such as waxes and resins, as well as powders, film-forming agents, and water-soluble polymers. The formulation of other ingredients has been explored depending on the desired feel and functionality. Eyelash cosmetics are broadly categorized into three types: oil-in-water, oil-based, and water-in-oil. Water-in-oil cosmetics, in particular, have gained popularity in the market because they offer the excellent curling and volume-enhancing effects of oil-based cosmetics, while also offering a smoother feel and greater resistance to sweat and water than oil-in-water types. In particular, overseas, particularly in Europe and the United States, where a more pronounced eyelash appearance is preferred, unlike in Japan, where a natural look is preferred, and water-in-oil cosmetics, which offer both cosmetic effects and a comfortable feel, are popular.
[0003] While water-in-oil cosmetic compositions offer good cosmetic effects, ease of use, and long-lasting properties such as sweat and water resistance, they are known to have drawbacks such as poor storage stability and susceptibility to changes in properties. Examples of such changes include the incorporation of high-melting solid fats or an increase in the overall amount of solid fats, which can harden the cosmetic over time, reducing adhesion to eyelashes and causing the emulsion to lose its smooth feel over time due to insufficient stabilization. For this reason, various methods have been proposed to improve the storage stability of water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic compositions while maintaining their excellent functionality. For example, a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic composition has been proposed that combines a nonionic surfactant with an eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and a dextrin fatty acid ester to provide excellent cosmetic effects such as curling and volume-enhancing effects, excellent adhesion to eyelashes, and excellent storage stability (see, for example, Patent Document 1).
[0004] Furthermore, it has been proposed to incorporate organically modified clay minerals such as dimethyl distearyl ammonium hectorite and dimethyl distearyl ammonium bentonite in order to improve storage stability (see, for example, Patent Document 2). [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2005-170847 [Patent Document 2] Special Publication No. 2001-506608 Summary of the Invention
[0006] In the technology of Patent Document 1, although the nonionic surfactant and dextrin fatty acid ester have the effect of improving storage stability, there is still room for improvement in both cosmetic effect and storage stability. In particular, with regard to adhesion to eyelashes, the incorporation of (eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer alone is insufficient, and in the examples in which silicone resin was used in combination, slippage was observed when applied to the eyelashes, and the cosmetic effect of layering cosmetics was difficult to achieve.
[0007] Furthermore, although the technology of Patent Document 2 shows some improvement in storage stability, it cannot be said to be sufficient, and there is also room for improvement in cosmetic effects.
[0008] In view of the above problems, the present inventors have conducted extensive research and have discovered that a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic containing an animal or vegetable wax with a melting point of 60 to 90°C, a polar resin that is solid at 25°C, a dextrin fatty acid ester, water, and a specific nonionic surfactant has a smooth feel when used and excellent adhesion when applied to the eyelashes, thereby instantly achieving a volume-up effect, and is also excellent in cosmetic film retention such as a curl-lasting effect, cosmetic durability such as resistance to smudging, emulsification properties, and storage stability, thereby completing the present invention. That is, the present invention includes the following techniques. [1] The following components (A) to (E): (A) Animal and vegetable waxes with a melting point of 60-90°C (B) Polar resin that is solid at 25°C (C) 0.1 to 5 mass% of dextrin fatty acid ester containing 50 mol% or more of linear saturated fatty acid ester (D)Water (E) 0.1 to 5.0% by mass of a nonionic surfactant having a polyoxyethylene chain with an HLB of 10 to 15 The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic contains the above components, and the mass ratio of components (C) and (E) to components (A) and (B), [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)], is 0.10 to 0.70. [2] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic composition according to [1] further contains, as component (F), one or more oils selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils that are solid at 50°C and different from components (A) and (B). [3] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to [2], wherein the mass ratio (A) / [(A)+(F)] of the component (A) to the components (A) and (F) is 0.5 or more and less than 1.0. [4] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of [2] or [3], wherein the content of the silicone resin (component G) different from components (B) and (F) is 2.0 mass % or less. [5] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein the component (B) contains one or more selected from a dextrin fatty acid ester containing less than 50 mol% of a linear saturated fatty acid ester, a polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymer having an alkyl chain with a carbon number of 16 or more, and a hydrogenated abietic acid ester. [6] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [5] further contains a non-aqueous (meth)acrylic acid-based polymer emulsion as component (H). [7] The water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes according to any one of [1] to [6], wherein a cylinder having a diameter of 1 cm is pressed against an 800 μm applied film of the water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec and a load of 200 g, and the cylinder is then peeled off at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec, during 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature, and the stress value X is such that the value of the stress value per unit load: X / 200, exceeds 1 at a moment.
[0009] In addition, the present technology can further adopt the following configurations. [8] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [4] to [7], wherein the mass ratio of the component (G) to the total amount of the components (A) and (B), (G) / [(A)+(B)], is less than 0.15. [9] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to any one of [1] to [8] contains 0.1 to 10% by mass of the component (B). [Brief explanation of the drawings]
[0010] [Figure 1] 1 is a graph showing the evaluation of tackiness of a cosmetic coating film (relationship between room temperature drying time and stress value per unit load g: X / 200 in Example 1). DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0011] The present invention will be described in detail below. In this specification, the term "mass %" may be simply referred to as "%," but this refers to mass % and "to" refers to a range including the numerical values before and after it. Unless otherwise specified, operations and measurements of physical properties are performed at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and a relative humidity of 45 to 55% RH.
[0012] The water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention has a smooth feel when used and excellent adhesion when applied to the eyelashes, thereby instantly achieving a volume-up effect and achieving an effect that varies depending on the number of times the cosmetic is applied. The cosmetic also has excellent cosmetic film retention, such as a good curl-up effect, cosmetic durability, such as resistance to smudging, emulsification properties, and storage stability.
[0013] As mentioned above, it has been difficult to improve emulsifying ability and stability while maintaining cosmetic effects and their durability in water-in-oil cosmetics, which have a smoother feel when used than oil-based cosmetics. The present invention achieves its effects by organically integrating each component. An oil layer composed of animal and vegetable waxes with a melting point of 60-90°C and a polar resin that is solid at 25°C exerts excellent cosmetic effects and their durability. It is believed that combining this with a dextrin fatty acid ester and a specific nonionic surfactant stabilizes the water layer interface within the oil layer, resulting in a water-in-oil cosmetic with excellent emulsifying ability and stability.
[0014] Hereinafter, each component contained in the water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic of the present invention will be described.
[0015] Component (A) used in the present invention is an animal or vegetable wax with a melting point of 60 to 90°C. Here, the melting point refers to that measured by the General Testing Method (Method 2) of the Japan Institute of External Origin. Any wax commonly used in cosmetics can be used as component (A). Examples of animal or vegetable waxes include vegetable fats and animal fats, which are highly polar solid oils. Specific examples include hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, beeswax, carnauba wax, carnauba wax extract (resin extracted from carnauba wax), candelilla wax, Japan wax, sunflower wax, and rice bran wax. Component (A) preferably contains at least one selected from the group consisting of beeswax, carnauba wax, and carnauba wax extract (a resin extracted from carnauba wax), and component (A) is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of beeswax, carnauba wax, and carnauba wax extract (a resin extracted from carnauba wax). By using these, a good water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic composition with improved storage stability and adhesion to eyelashes can be obtained. Furthermore, in terms of adhesion, cosmetic film retention, and resistance to bleeding, component (A) preferably contains at least carnauba wax. Furthermore, in terms of adhesion to eyelashes, cosmetic film retention, and resistance to bleeding, a form in which beeswax, carnauba wax, and carnauba wax extract (a resin extracted from carnauba wax) are used in combination is also preferred.
[0016] The content of component (A) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 6.0% by mass (hereinafter referred to as %) or more, more preferably 8.0% or more, and even more preferably 10.0% or more. From the viewpoint of cosmetic film retention, it is even more preferable that it exceeds 10.0%. The upper limit is preferably 17.0% or less, more preferably 16.0% or less, even more preferably 15.0% or less, and particularly preferably less than 15.0%. This range is preferable because it further improves adhesion to eyelashes and also improves cosmetic film retention, resistance to smudging, and other cosmetic durability. Component (A) may be used alone or in combination of two or more types.
[0017] Component (B) used in the present invention is a polar resin that is solid at 25°C. In the present invention, "solid" refers to a resin that does not deform or exhibit fluidity in an unloaded environment at 25°C under 1 atmosphere. Furthermore, in the present invention, "polar resin" refers to a resin that has polar groups in its chemical structure, dissolves in an organic solvent, and remains as a film-like polymeric substance after the solvent evaporates. Examples of organic solvents include isododecane, acetone, and hexane. Component (B) specifically includes, but is not limited to, those having an alkyl group with 16 or more carbon atoms, or those having a pyrrolidone skeleton or an abietic acid (rosin) skeleton. Furthermore, component (B) is preferably a dextrin fatty acid ester containing less than 50 mol% of linear saturated fatty acid ester, a polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymer having an alkyl chain with 16 or more carbon atoms, or a hydrogenated abietic acid ester. These may be used alone or in combination. Specifically, component (B) may be dextrin isostearate, eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymer, hydrogenated glyceryl abietate, or hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, and among these, component (B) is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated glyceryl abietate, dextrin isostearate, and eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, and more preferably dextrin isostearate and / or eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer. By selecting the above material as component (B), a good water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic can be obtained that further improves cosmetic film retention and adhesion to eyelashes.
[0018] The content of component (B) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1.0% or more, more preferably 2.0% or more, and even more preferably 3.0% or more, and is preferably 6.0% or less, more preferably 5.0% or less, even more preferably less than 5.0%, and even more preferably 4.0% or less, as the lower limit, and is preferably within this range, the adhesion to eyelashes is further improved, and the cosmetic durability, such as cosmetic film retention, is also improved, which is preferable. Furthermore, one or more types may be blended in combination.
[0019] Component (C) used in the present invention is a dextrin fatty acid ester containing 50 mol % or more (upper limit 100 mol %) of a linear saturated fatty acid ester. The linear saturated fatty acid ester contained in component (C) is 50 mol % or more (upper limit 100 mol %), preferably 75 mol % or more, and more preferably 90 mol % or more. When the content of linear saturated fatty acid ester contained in component (C) is above the above lower limit, good storage stability and emulsion stability are achieved.
[0020] The average degree of polymerization of glucose in the dextrin in the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (C) is preferably 3-150, more preferably 10-100, and even more preferably 20-80.
[0021] From the viewpoints of storage stability and emulsion stability, the fatty acid contained in the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (C) preferably has 2 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Examples of the dextrin fatty acid ester of component (C) include dextrin palmitate, dextrin palmitate / 2-ethylhexanoate (dextrin palmitate content of 50 mol% or more), and dextrin myristate. One or more of these components (C) can be used as needed. Dextrin palmitate is preferred as component (C) from the viewpoints of compatibility and uniform dispersion with the animal and vegetable waxes having a melting point of 60 to 90°C of component (A) and the polar resins that are solid at 25°C of component (B). Commercially available products of component (C) include Leopearl KL2 (dextrin palmitate (100 mol% linear saturated fatty acid ester), dextrin glucose has an average degree of polymerization of 20), Leopearl TL2 (dextrin palmitate (100 mol% linear saturated fatty acid ester), dextrin glucose has an average degree of polymerization of 20), and Leopearl TT2 ((palmitic acid / 2-ethylhexanoate)dextrin (palmitic acid 87 mol%; 2-ethylhexanoic acid 13 mol%), dextrin glucose has an average degree of polymerization of 30) (all manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills). In the present invention, the crystallization-inhibiting effect of component (C) on the animal and vegetable waxes having a melting point of 60 to 90°C of component (A) has the effect of uniformly reducing the size of the crystals and improving the uniform dispersion when powders are blended, and exhibits the effect of acting as an emulsifier aid, thereby enabling the production of water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics with good storage stability and emulsion stability.
[0022] The content of component (C) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 to 5%. If the content of component (C) is less than 0.1%, the effects of containing component (C) (storage stability, emulsion stability) will not be exhibited. If the content of component (C) is more than 5%, the smooth feel upon use will be significantly reduced. The content of component (C) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is preferably at least 1.0% as a lower limit, more preferably at least 1.0% from the viewpoints of adhesion, feel upon use, and cosmetic durability, even more preferably at least 2.0%, and even more preferably at least 3.0%. The content of component (C) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is preferably at most 5.0%, even more preferably at most 4.5%, and even more preferably at most 4.0%, from the viewpoints of cosmetic film retention and feel upon use. This range is preferable because it further enhances the effects of the wax having a melting point of 60 to 90°C as component (A), the polar resin as component (B) in inhibiting crystallization, and the powder dispersant and emulsification aid.
[0023] The component (D) used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include purified water, distilled water, hot spring water, deep-sea water, lavender flower water, and various other waters. If necessary, one or more of these can be used in combination. The water content in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 4.0% or more as a lower limit, more preferably more than 4.0% in terms of usability, more preferably 5.5% or more, and even more preferably 7.0% or more. The upper limit is preferably 13.0% or less, and more preferably less than 13.0% in terms of adhesion and cosmetic film retention, more preferably 11.5% or less, and even more preferably 10.0% or less. Using a water-in-oil cosmetic within this range can provide a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic that feels smoother and more comfortable when applied to eyelashes and has improved volume.
[0024] Component (E) used in the present invention is a nonionic surfactant having a polyoxyethylene chain with an HLB of 10 to 15. It is not particularly limited as long as it is one that is commonly used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene trimethylolpropane fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, etc. One or more of these components (E) can be used as needed. Furthermore, the nonionic surfactant of component (E) of the present invention may be used in combination with other nonionic surfactants.
[0025] The number of moles of ethylene oxide added in component (E) is preferably 20 to 50. Furthermore, the HLB value of component (E) is preferably 11 to 15, more preferably more than 11 and not more than 14, and particularly preferably more than 11 and less than 14. Within this range, a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic having a smooth feel when used and further improved storage stability can be obtained.
[0026] In addition, the number of carbon atoms in the fatty acid portion and alkyl portion of component (E) is preferably 8 to 24, and the fatty acid portion may be a saturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty acid. Specific examples of component (E) include PEG (30) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB11), PEG (40) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB12), PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB13), PEG (60) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB14), PEG (80) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB15), PEG (100) hydrogenated castor oil (HLB15), PEG (40) isostearate hydrogenated castor oil (HLB11), PEG (50) isostearate hydrogenated castor oil (HLB12), PEG ( 20) Glyceryl (HLB14), PEG (30) Glyceryl Stearate (HLB15), PEG (20) Glyceryl Isostearate (HLB13), PEG (30) Glyceryl Isostearate (HLB15), Polysorbate 80 (HLB14), Polysorbate 60 (HLB15), PEG (30) Trimethylolpropane Trimyristate, PEG (40) Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate (HLB11), etc. can be used. Of these, the branched alkyl type in particular provides a smooth feel in use and further improves storage stability, so component (E) is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HLB 12) and / or PEG (20) glyceryl isostearate (HLB 13) and polysorbate 60 (HLB 15), and more preferably PEG (50) hydrogenated castor oil isostearate (HLB 12) and / or PEG (20) glyceryl isostearate (HLB 13).
[0027] The content of component (E) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is 0.1 to 5%. If the content of component (E) is less than 0.1%, the effects of component (E), such as smooth feel in use, emulsifying ability, and stability, will not be achieved. Furthermore, if the content of component (E) exceeds 5%, makeup durability, such as smearing resistance, will be significantly reduced. The content of component (E) is preferably at least 0.5% as a lower limit, and from the viewpoints of feel in use, emulsifying ability, and stability, it is more preferably at least 0.5%, even more preferably at least 0.75%, and even more preferably at least 1.0%. From the viewpoints of adhesion and cosmetic film retention, it is more preferably at most 5.0%, even more preferably at most 4.0%, and even more preferably at most 3.0%. Within this range, a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic with improved smooth feel in use and storage stability can be obtained.
[0028] In the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention, the mass ratio of components (C) and (E) to the total mass of components (A) and (B), [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)], is in the range of 0.10 to 0.70. The sum (A) + (B) of components (A) and (B) represents the total amount of oil phase components that contribute to the cosmetic effect and its durability, while the sum (C) + (E) of components (C) and (E) represents the total amount of emulsification aids that emulsify the aqueous phase in the oil phase and contribute to the subsequent storage stability. Therefore, [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)] is an index of the balance between cosmetic effect and its durability, and storage stability / emulsification stability. If [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)] is less than 0.10, the feel during use and emulsification and stability will be significantly reduced. If [(C)+(E)] / [(A)+(B)] exceeds 0.70, bleeding due to the emulsifying aid occurs, and the makeup lasting power decreases significantly. The mass ratio of components (C) and (E) to the total mass of components (A) and (B), [(C)+(E)] / [(A)+(B)], is more preferably in the range of 0.20 to 0.50, and even more preferably in the range of 0.25 to 0.40.
[0029] The present invention preferably further comprises component (F). Component (F) used in the present invention is one or more selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils that are solid at 50°C. By further including component (F), a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic can be obtained that exhibits improved makeup retention, such as smearing resistance. Component (F) is different from components (A) and (B). That is, component (F) is a hydrocarbon oil and / or silicone oil that is solid at 50°C, other than components (A) and (B). Specific examples of component (F) include hydrocarbon solid oils such as montan wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, paraffin wax, ceresin wax, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, and petrolatum, and silicone solid oils such as stearyl dimethicone and alkyl (C30-45) methicone olefin (C30-45). Among these, from the viewpoint of adhesion, it is preferable that component (F) be a hydrocarbon oil. The content of component (F) in the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1% or more, and more preferably 1.5% or more, from the viewpoint of improving makeup durability such as resistance to smudging. The content of component (F) is preferably 10% or less, and more preferably less than 6.0% from the viewpoints of adhesion, emulsification, stability, etc. The content of component (F) in the present invention is preferably such that the mass ratio (A) / [(A)+(F)] of component (A) to the total mass of components (A) and (F) is preferably in the range of 0.5 or more but less than 1.0, more preferably 0.5 or more but 0.9 or less, and even more preferably 0.6 or more but 0.85 or less. Within this range, a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic can be obtained that combines excellent adhesion to eyelashes, a smooth feel in use, and stability over time. It is more preferable that the average melting point of component (A) and component (F) is in the range of 60 to 80°C, which will provide a better effect in achieving both bleeding resistance and a smooth feel when used. When two or more types of component (A) and two or more types of component (F) are used in combination, the melting point of each component is multiplied by the mass ratio of the components contained in each component.Specifically, when component (A) with a melting point of 70°C and component (A) with a melting point of 80°C are contained in a mass ratio of 1:3, the melting point of component (A) is 70×1 / 4+80×3 / 4=77.5°C.
[0030] In the present invention, the content of the silicone resin other than components (B) and (F) (hereinafter also referred to as component (G)) is preferably 2.0% or less. When the content of the other silicone resin is 2.0% or less, the cosmetic film retention and makeup durability such as resistance to bleeding are excellent, and the initial adhesion when the cosmetic is applied to the eyelashes, the cosmetic effect, and the cosmetic effect when the cosmetic is layered are also easily obtained. Silicone resins are synthetic polymer compounds with a main skeleton formed by siloxane bonds, in which organic groups primarily composed of methyl groups (-CH3) are bonded to the silicon (Si). There are no particular restrictions on silicone resins, as long as they are those typically used in cosmetics. Specific examples include trimethylsiloxysilicate, trifluoroalkyldimethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, (acrylates / dimethicone) copolymer, (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate) copolymer, (acrylates / behenyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate) copolymer, and dimethiconol.
[0031] The content of component (G) in the present invention is preferably 2.0% or less, more preferably 1.0% or less, and even more preferably substantially absent. Within this range, a water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic can be obtained that exhibits improved adhesion from the moment the cosmetic is applied to the eyelashes, improved cosmetic effects, and improved cosmetic effects when layered, particularly improved adhesion. Here, "substantially absent" means that the inclusion of impurities is permitted. For example, the content of component (G) is preferably 0.01% or less, more preferably 0.005% or less, even more preferably 0.001% or less, and particularly preferably 0%. Furthermore, the mass ratio (G) / [(A) + (B)] of component (G) relative to the masses of components (A) and (B) is preferably less than 0.15, more preferably less than 0.10. This range is preferred because it further improves adhesion upon application.
[0032] The present invention preferably further comprises component (H). By including component (H), the makeup durability, such as smudging resistance, is further improved. Component (H) used in the present invention is a non-aqueous (meth)acrylic acid-based polymer emulsion, and the non-aqueous (meth)acrylic acid-based polymer is a copolymer having a (meth)acrylic acid structure and a hydrophobic group having 2 to 12 carbon atoms. The non-aqueous emulsion has a core / shell structure, and polymer particles that are insoluble in organic media are stably dispersed in the core portion of the core / shell structure to form a particle dispersion system. When the emulsion is formed, the dispersed resin particles preferably have an average particle size of 0.1 to 2.0 μm as determined by the sedimentation method, as this minimizes viscosity change of the non-aqueous emulsion and prevents particle precipitation. The concentration of the non-aqueous emulsion is not particularly limited. Commercially available non-aqueous (meth)acrylic acid polymer emulsions include Acrydic YL-431 (acrylic resin, solids content 50%), TL-696 (acrylic resin, solids content 50%), A-1300 (acrylic resin, solids content 60%), A-1370 (acrylic resin, solids content 53%) (all manufactured by Dainippon Ink Co., Ltd.), Nissetsu U-4315B (alkyl acrylate-vinyl acetate copolymer, solids content 51%), and Nissetsu U-3700A (alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymer, solids content 48%) (all manufactured by Nippon Carbide Industries Co., Ltd.). Of these, alkyl acrylate-styrene copolymers are preferred because they further improve makeup durability, such as resistance to bleeding.
[0033] The solid content of component (H) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 2.0% or more, more preferably 3.0% or more, and even more preferably 4.0% or more, and the upper limit is preferably 8.0% or less, more preferably 7.0% or less, and even more preferably 6.0% or less. This range is preferable because it further improves makeup durability, such as resistance to smudging, without impairing adhesion to eyelashes.
[0034] The tackiness of the applied cosmetic film is evaluated as the initial adhesion of the water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention. The initial adhesion of the water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes can be measured indirectly by creating an 800 μm applied film using a doctor blade, pressing a 1 cm diameter cylinder against the film at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec with a load of 200 g, and peeling it off at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec during 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature. The stress value X measured when the film is peeled off at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec is measured. The stress value X per unit load g (X / 200) is then measured and indirectly measured by whether the value exceeds 1. Measurements can be performed using a texture analyzer (manufactured by Eiko Seiki Co., Ltd.), and the tackiness of the applied film can be assessed. A cosmetic film with an X / 200 value exceeding 1 at any time during 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature indicates high tackiness, making it possible to obtain a water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes with excellent initial adhesion.
[0035] Cosmetics can be blended with various ingredients as needed, such as oils, surfactants, alcohols, water, moisturizers, gelling agents and thickeners, powders, fibers, UV absorbers, preservatives, antibacterial agents, antioxidants, skin-beautifying ingredients (whitening agents, cell activators, anti-inflammatory agents, blood circulation promoters, skin astringents, antiseborrheic agents, etc.), vitamins, amino acids, nucleic acids, hormones, etc.
[0036] In particular, it is preferable to contain an organically modified clay mineral as a gelling agent and thickener in terms of adhesion, emulsifying ability, and stability. Specific examples include quaternary ammonium salt-modified hectorites such as distearyldimonium hectorite and stearalkonium hectorite. The content of the organically modified clay mineral is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5% or more, more preferably 1% or more, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic. Furthermore, the content of the organically modified clay mineral is preferably 10% or less, more preferably 8% or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic.
[0037] Furthermore, the oil preferably contains a volatile oil, as this allows for the rapid formation of a cosmetic film. A volatile oil is an oil that is volatile at room temperature (23°C). The volatile oil is not particularly limited as long as it is one typically used in cosmetics, and examples thereof include volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and volatile ester oils. Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include isododecane and isohexadecane. Examples of volatile silicone oils include methyl trimethicone, caprylyl trimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane (methylpolysiloxane), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and ethyltrisiloxane. Examples of volatile ester oils include ethyl acetate and butyl acetate. These may be used alone or in combination of two or more. The content of the volatile oil is not limited to, but is preferably 20% or more, and more preferably 30% or more, of the total amount of the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic. The content of the volatile oil is preferably 90% or less, more preferably 80% or less, and even more preferably 70% or less, based on the total amount of the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic.
[0038] Powders are blended for purposes such as coloring and adjusting the texture, and are not particularly limited by shape (plate-like, spindle-like, needle-like, etc.), particle size (smoke-like, fine particle, pigment-grade, etc.), particle structure (porous, non-porous, etc.), etc., and examples that can be used include inorganic powders, glittering powders, organic powders, colored pigments, composite powders, polyethylene terephthalate-aluminum-epoxy laminated powder, and polyethylene terephthalate-polymethyl methacrylate laminated powder.
[0039] The water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention may be in the form of a solid, cream, gel, liquid, mousse, etc. The water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a cosmetic to be used on eyelashes, and may be a base in addition to so-called mascara. [Example]
[0040] The present invention will now be described in more detail with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples in any way.
[0041] Examples 1 to 28 and Comparative Examples 1 to 11: Water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics shown in Tables 1 to 3 were prepared using the manufacturing method described below, and evaluated and judged using the following evaluation methods for a. adhesion and volume effect, b. curl retention effect (cosmetic film retention), c. smooth feel when used, d. resistance to smudging (cosmetic film retention), e. lack of change over time in the applied film, f. emulsification and stability over time, and g. tackiness of the applied cosmetic film. The results are also shown in the tables.
[0042] [Table 1-1]
[0043] [Table 1-2]
[0044] [Table 2-1]
[0045] [Table 2-2]
[0046] [Table 3]
[0047] (Manufacturing method: Tables 1-3) A. Components (1) to (10) were heated to 110°C and mixed uniformly. B. Components (26) to (29) were uniformly dispersed. A and components (11) to (25) were added to CB and dispersed uniformly. D. Components (30) to (32) were uniformly dispersed. D was added to EC and emulsified. The FE was filled into containers to produce the product.
[0048] (Evaluation method) The following evaluation items were evaluated by the following methods. (Evaluation items) a. Adhesion and volume effect b. Long-lasting curl effect (cosmetic film retention) c. Smooth feel when used d. Smudge-resistant (makeup lasting effect) e. No change in coating film over time f. Emulsifying properties and stability over time g. Tackiness of the applied cosmetic film For the evaluation items a to e, a use test was conducted for each sample by a panel of 10 experts, and each panelist evaluated and scored each sample on a 7-point scale using the absolute evaluation criteria below. The average score was calculated from the total scores of all panelists for each sample, and the sample was judged according to the 4-point evaluation criteria below.
[0049] The following evaluation items were evaluated by the following methods. (Evaluation items) (Evaluation viewpoints) Regarding evaluation item a. adhesion and volume effect, when each sample was applied to the eyelashes, it was visually evaluated whether the bulk adhered to the eyelashes and made them thicker. Regarding evaluation item b. Curl retention (cosmetic film retention), each sample was applied to the eyelashes, and the panelists were asked to go about their normal lives. After 6 hours, the panelists evaluated whether the curl strength had decreased compared to immediately after application. Regarding evaluation item c. smooth feel in use, each sample was evaluated for ease of spreading with little resistance when applied to the eyelashes. Regarding evaluation item d. Smearing resistance (makeup durability), each sample was applied to the eyelashes, and the panelists were asked to go about their normal lives, and after 6 hours, it was evaluated whether smearing was observed around the application site. Regarding evaluation item e. the absence of change over time in the applied film, each sample was applied to the eyelashes one month after preparation and compared with the results of a to d immediately after preparation.
[0050] (Absolute evaluation criteria) (Rating): (Evaluation) 6: Very good 5: Good 4: Fairly good 3: Normal 2: Somewhat bad 1: Bad 0: Very bad.
[0051] (5-level evaluation criteria) (Judgment): (Average score) ◎◎: Over 5.5 points: Best ◎: Over 5 points, 5.5 points or less: Very good ○: Over 3.5 points and 5 points or less: Good △: Over 2 points, 3.5 points or less: Slightly poor ×: 2 points or less: Defective.
[0052] Regarding evaluation item f. emulsifiability and stability over time, the bulk condition was visually inspected immediately after production and after storage at 50°C for one month to determine whether each phase was uniformly dispersed in the bulk using manufacturing method D and whether any color unevenness or lumps were observed in the bulk. The bulk condition after storage at 50°C for one month was then judged according to the following criteria.
[0053] (4-level evaluation criteria) ◎: The oil phase and water phase are uniformly dispersed, and no color unevenness or lumps are observed. ○: The oil and water phases are dispersed, but there is some color unevenness or small particles. △: The oil and water phases are dispersed, but there is considerable color unevenness or large particles. ×: The oil phase and the water phase are not uniformly dispersed.
[0054] Evaluation item g. Tackiness of the cosmetic coating film was evaluated by pressing a 1 cm diameter cylinder against an 800 μm coating film at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec with a load of 200 g, and peeling it off at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec, during 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature, and determining whether the load value X when peeled off was 0.5 mm / sec, and whether the value of X / 200 exceeded 1. Cosmetic films that exceeded 1 at any time during 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature were evaluated as having high tackiness and excellent adhesion to the skin.
[0055] FIG. 1 shows the evaluation of tackiness of the applied cosmetic film (relationship between room temperature drying time and stress value per unit load g: X / 200 in Example 1). (2-stage evaluation criteria) ○: Value is greater than 1 ×: Value is 1 or less.
[0056] As is clear from the results in Tables 1, 2, and 3, the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics of Examples 1 to 28 of the present invention had a smooth feel when used, while being superior in all aspects of cosmetic film retention, cosmetic durability such as smearing resistance, adhesion to skin and hair, and uniform dispersibility, compared to the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetics of Comparative Examples 1 to 11. Note that the average score of △ in the evaluation results of the Examples was greater than 3.0. Comparative Example 1, which did not contain component (A), was unsatisfactory in terms of adhesion. Furthermore, due to weak adhesion, cosmetic film retention was also unsatisfactory. Comparative Examples 2 and 9, which did not contain component (B), were unsatisfactory in terms of adhesion, just like Comparative Example 1. Furthermore, due to weak adhesion, cosmetic film retention was also unsatisfactory. Comparative Example 3, which did not contain component (C), was unsatisfactory in terms of uniform dispersibility (emulsification), as wax crystallization was not inhibited, and changes in the applied film over time were observed. Comparative Example 4, which did not contain component (D), was unsatisfactory in terms of smooth feel and uniform dispersibility (emulsifying ability). Comparative Example 5, which did not contain component (E), was unsatisfactory in terms of smooth feel and uniform dispersibility (emulsifying ability), similar to Comparative Example 4. Comparative Example 7, which contained more than 5% component (E), was unsatisfactory in terms of makeup durability. Comparative Example 6, which contained more than 5% component (C), was unsatisfactory in terms of smooth feel. Comparative Example 8, which used PEG (7) hydrogenated castor oil with a polyoxyethylene chain of HLB 6 as component (E), was unsatisfactory in terms of uniform dispersibility, and changes in the applied film over time were observed. Comparative Example 10, in which (C + E) / (A + B) was less than 0.10, was unsatisfactory in terms of emulsifying ability and stability. Comparative Example 11, in which (C + E) / (A + B) was more than 0.70, was unsatisfactory in terms of makeup durability, such as resistance to smearing.
[0057] Example 29: Water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic (Component) (%) (1) Beeswax (ingredient (A)) *1 4 (2) Carnauba wax (ingredient (A)) *2 1 (3) Candelilla wax (ingredient (A): melting point 70-75°C) *20 5 (4) Fischer-Tropsch wax (component (F): melting point 91-96°C) *21 2 (5) Carnauba wax extract (ingredient (A)) *6 3 (6) Dextrin isostearate (ingredient (B)) *7 1 (7) Hydrogenated glyceryl abietic acid (ingredient (B)) 0.5 (8) Dextrin myristate (ingredient (C)) *22 3 (9) Vaseline (ingredient (F)) *28 0.1 (10) Squalane 0.1 (11) Isododecane remaining amount (12) Distearyldimonium Hectorite 4 (13) Propylene carbonate 1 (14) Isododecane 20 (15) PEG (50) Isostearate Hydrogenated Castor Oil (HLB12) (Component (E)) 0.5 (16) PEG(20)glyceryl isostearate (HLB13) (Component (E)) 0.5 (17) Lecithin 0.1 (18) Camellia seed oil 0.1 (19) Black iron oxide 7 (20) Mica 1 (21) Silica anhydride 2 (22) Rayon fiber 1 (23) Nylon fiber 0.5 (24) Polypropylene fiber 1 (25) Purified water (component (D)) 10 (26) Ethanol 2.5 (27) Panthenol 0.1 (28) Polyvinyl alcohol 1 (29) Water-soluble collagen 0.1 (30) Cholesterol 0.1 (31) 1,3-butylene glycol 1 (32) EDTA 0.1 (33) Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1 (34) Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.2 (35) Phenoxyethanol 0.3 *20: Refined Candelilla Wax SR-3 (Nippon Natural Products Co., Ltd.) *21: CIREBELLE 109L (manufactured by CIREBELLE) *22: Leopard MKL2 (manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills) *28:SNOW WHITE SPECIAL (SONNEBORN, LLC) (Manufacturing method) A. Components (1) to (11) were heated to 110°C and mixed uniformly. B. Components (12) to (14) were uniformly dispersed. B and components (15) to (24) were added to CA and dispersed uniformly. D. Components (25) to (35) were uniformly dispersed. D was added to EC and emulsified. The FE was filled into containers to produce the product.
[0058] The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of Example 29 had a smooth feel while also being excellent in all aspects of makeup film retention, makeup durability (e.g., smudging resistance), adhesion, uniform dispersion, emulsification, and stability over time. For the water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic of Example 27, [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)] = 4 / 14.5 = 0.28, and (A) / [(A) + (F)] = 13 / 15 = 0.86. Furthermore, the value of X / 200 exceeded 1 at some point during the 60-120 minutes of room-temperature drying.
[0059] Example 30: Water-in-oil eyelash base cosmetic (1) Beeswax (ingredient (A)) *1 2 (2) Rice bran wax (ingredient (A): melting point 78-80°C) *23 2 (3) Carnauba wax (ingredient (A)) *2 1 (4) Sunflower wax (ingredient (A): melting point 76°C) *24 3 (5) Candelilla wax (ingredient (A)) *20 2 (6) Dextrin isostearate (ingredient (B)) *7 1 (7) Synthetic wax (component (F): melting point 80-85°C) *25 2 (8) Carnauba wax extract (ingredient (A)) *6 4 (9) Dextrin (palmitate / ethylhexanoate) (ingredient (C)) *26 3 (10) Mineral oil 0.1 (11) Squalane 0.1 (12) Isododecane remaining amount (13) Distearyldimonium Hectorite 3 (14) Propylene carbonate 1 (15) Isododecane 20 (16) PEG (50) Isostearate Hydrogenated Castor Oil (HLB12) (Component (E)) 0.5 (17) Polysorbate 60 (HLB15) (ingredient (E)) 0.5 (18) Lecithin 0.1 (19) Lavender oil 0.1 (20) Yellow iron oxide 1 (21) Red iron oxide 1 (22) Titanium dioxide 0.5 (23) Lauroyl Lysine *27 1 (24) Mica 1 (25) Silica anhydride 2 (26) Purified water (component (D)) 10 (27) Ethanol 2.5 (28) Lemon Fruit Extract 0.1 (29) Marituka Flower Extract 0.1 (30) Polyvinyl alcohol 1 (31) Water-soluble collagen 0.1 (32) Cholesterol 0.1 (33) 1,3-butylene glycol 1 (34) EDTA 0.1 (35) Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1 (36) Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.2 (37) Phenoxyethanol 0.3 *23: Rice Wax SS-1 (manufactured by Boso Oil Co., Ltd.) *24: Sunflower wax (manufactured by Yamakei Sangyo Co., Ltd.) *25:CIREBELLE 108 (manufactured by CIREBELLE) *26: Leopard TT2 (manufactured by Chiba Flour Mills) *27: Amihope LL (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.) (Manufacturing method) A. Components (1) to (12) were heated to 110°C and mixed uniformly. B. Components (13) to (15) were uniformly dispersed. B and components (16) to (25) were added to CA and dispersed uniformly. D. Components (26) to (37) were uniformly dispersed. D was added to EC and emulsified. The FE was filled into containers to produce the product.
[0060] The water-in-oil eyelash base cosmetic of Example 30 had a smooth feel while being excellent in all aspects: makeup film retention, makeup durability (e.g., smudging resistance), adhesion, uniform dispersion, emulsification, and stability over time. For the water-in-oil eyelash base cosmetic of Example 28, the values were [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)] = 4 / 15 = 0.27, and (A) / [(A) + (F)] = 14 / 16 = 0.88. Furthermore, the value of X / 200 exceeded 1 at some point during the 60-120 minutes of room-temperature drying.
[0061] This application is based on Japanese Patent Application No. 2021-012577, filed on January 29, 2021, the disclosure of which is incorporated by reference in its entirety.
Claims
1. The following components (A) to (E): (A) Animal and vegetable waxes with a melting point of 60 to 90°C (B) Polar resin that is solid at 25°C (C) 0.1 to 5% by mass of a dextrin fatty acid ester containing 50 mol% or more of a linear saturated fatty acid ester (D) Water (E) 0.1 to 5.0% by mass of a nonionic surfactant having a polyoxyethylene chain and an HLB of 11 to 15 Contains the component (B) is one or more selected from a dextrin fatty acid ester containing less than 50 mol% of a linear saturated fatty acid ester, a polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymer having an alkyl chain having a carbon number of 16 or more, and a hydrogenated abietic acid ester; the component (C) is at least one selected from the group consisting of dextrin palmitate, dextrin (palmitate / 2-ethylhexanoate) (dextrin palmitate content: 50 mol % or more), and dextrin myristate; A water-in-oil cosmetic for eyelashes, in which the mass ratio of the components (C) and (E) to the components (A) and (B), [(C) + (E)] / [(A) + (B)], is 0.10 to 0.
70.
2. 2. The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to claim 1, further comprising, as component (F), one or more oils selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils that are solid at 50°C and different from component (A) and component (B).
3. 3. The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the mass ratio (A) / [(A)+(F)] of the component (A) to the component (A) and the component (F) is 0.5 or more and less than 1.
0.
4. 4. The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the content of the silicone resin (component G) different from component (B) and component (F) is 2.0% by mass or less.
5. The water-in-oil eyelash cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising a non-aqueous (meth)acrylic acid-based polymer emulsion as component (H).
6. 6. The water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein a cylinder having a diameter of 1 cm is pressed against an 800 μm applied film of the water-in-oil type eyelash cosmetic at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec and a load of 200 g, and then peeled off at a speed of 0.5 mm / sec, during 60 to 120 minutes of drying at room temperature, and the stress value X measured at the time of peeling off the cylinder is such that there is a moment when the value of X / 200, the stress value per unit load, exceeds 1.
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