Oil-based solid cosmetics
A balanced formulation of wax, crystallization inhibitors, and specific oils with varying IOB values addresses the challenges of shape retention and longevity in oil-based solid cosmetics, achieving a loose feel and durable matte finish.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-01
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-11
AI Technical Summary
Existing oil-based solid cosmetics struggle to achieve a balance between shape retention, a loose feeling upon application, and long-lasting matte finish, often resulting in poor usability and cosmetic longevity due to the use of high wax content or other ingredients.
A combination of 10 to 30% wax with specific crystallization inhibitors, oils with IOB values of less than 0.16 and 0.16 or more, and a hardness of 40 to 350 gf, along with components like talc, boron nitride, and ethyl cellulose, is used to inhibit wax crystal formation, enhancing shape retention, loosening sensation, and cosmetic wear.
The formulation provides excellent shape retention, a loose feeling upon application, and long-lasting matte finish, ensuring the cosmetic remains effective and comfortable to use.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic preparation. [Background technology]
[0002] Oil-based solid cosmetics are a formulation used in a variety of items, such as skincare cosmetics and makeup cosmetics. For example, they are often used in makeup cosmetics, particularly lipstick, and there are many oil-based solid cosmetics on the market. For example, when it comes to lipstick, consumers may demand a variety of qualities in terms of color and texture, not only in terms of feel when used but also as a fashion statement. Examples include glossy finishes, metallic finishes with a strong pearly finish, and matte finishes that lack shine. Among these, matte finishes are increasingly sought after in line with recent trends. However, because oil-based cosmetics are primarily composed of oils and tend to form a glossy cosmetic film, various efforts have been made to achieve a matte finish. Examples include a technique for achieving a matte finish by incorporating a large amount of powder (see, for example, Patent Document 1) and a technique for using crosslinked elastomeric solid polyorganosiloxane particles containing oxyalkylene groups as a thickener and surfactant for a liquid fatty phase (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
[0003] On the other hand, wax, a type of gelling agent that solidifies oil-based solid cosmetics, is known to reduce the gloss of oil-based solid cosmetics by increasing its content. However, increasing the wax content can make oil-based solid cosmetics harder, resulting in poor usability. Therefore, it was necessary to design oil-based solid cosmetics that are easy to use by balancing the oil and wax and by utilizing the functions of other ingredients. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-119134 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-309510 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0005] However, oil-based solid cosmetics containing a large amount of powder can achieve a matte finish, but may not last long enough or may leave a dry feeling. Furthermore, the technology of using crosslinked solid polyorganosiloxane particles containing oxyalkylene groups as a thickener and surfactant for a liquid fatty phase, as in Patent Document 2, results in poor uniformity of the cosmetic film and insufficient cosmetic longevity. Furthermore, the inclusion of wax can achieve a matte finish and excellent shape retention, but can also result in a lack of loosening and poor usability.
[0006] Thus, it has been difficult to realize an oil-based solid cosmetic that has excellent shape retention (for example, if it is in stick form, it will not break during use), which is a basic quality of lipstick, while also achieving a loose feeling that allows the gel of the oil-based solid cosmetic to break down moderately during use and form a uniform cosmetic film, i.e., a quality that allows the gel to be easily broken down when the cosmetic is used while still forming a strong gel, and that also provides a matte finish and excellent cosmetic longevity. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic that has excellent shape retention and loose feeling, provides a matte finish, and excellent cosmetic longevity. [Means for solving the problem]
[0007] The present inventors, therefore, focused on the fact that combining specific ingredients with oil-based solid cosmetics containing 10 to 30% by mass of wax has the function of inhibiting wax crystal formation, and investigated the combination of wax crystal inhibitors. As a result, an oil-based cosmetic was obtained that exhibited excellent matte finish and loosening sensation, possibly due to the inhibition of wax crystal formation, but did not achieve satisfactory quality in terms of shape retention and cosmetic wear. Therefore, after various studies aimed at improving shape retention and cosmetic wear, they found that using an oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16 resulted in excellent loosening sensation, and using a combination of oils with an IOB value of 0.16 or more resulted in excellent shape retention and cosmetic wear. Based on these findings, the present inventors discovered that using a combination of 10 to 30% by mass of wax, the wax crystal inhibitor, an oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16, and an oil with an IOB value of 0.16 or more resulted in an oil-based solid cosmetic that exhibited excellent shape retention, loosening sensation upon application, a matte finish, and excellent cosmetic wear, thereby completing the present invention.
[0008] That is, the following components (A) to (D): (A) Wax 10 to 30% by mass (B) one or more crystallization inhibitors for component (A) selected from the group consisting of talc, boron nitride, dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, and ethyl cellulose; (C) Oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16 (D) Oil with an IOB value of 0.16 or more and a hardness at 25°C of 40 to 350 gf. [Effects of the Invention]
[0009] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic which has excellent shape retention, a good loosening feeling when applied, and further has excellent makeup durability and a matte finish effect. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0010] The present invention will be described in detail below. In this specification, "to" means a range including the numerical values before and after it. In addition, the "average particle size" in this invention is the median diameter D50 value obtained by measurement using an image analyzer (Luzex AP, manufactured by Nireco Corporation). In the case of asymmetric shapes, the median diameter D50 obtained from the distribution of the largest particle diameter is used as the average particle size in this invention.
[0011] The wax component (A) used in the present invention holds an oil in the voids of the card-house structure of the crystals formed into plates. Component (A) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is one commonly used in cosmetics, and any of synthetic hydrocarbons, natural waxes, and synthetic waxes can be used. Specific examples include paraffin wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, rice wax, Japan wax, jasmine wax, montan wax, stearyl-modified methylpolysiloxane, and behenyl-modified methylpolysiloxane, and one or more of these may be used. Among these, from the viewpoint of shape retention, one or more types selected from the group consisting of synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes are preferred. More specifically, one or more types selected from the group consisting of paraffin wax, ceresin wax, ozokerite wax, microcrystalline wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, polyethylene wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, and rice wax are preferred. Furthermore, one or more types selected from the group consisting of polyethylene wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, and candelilla wax are more preferred. In the present invention, a combination of two or more types of wax as component (A) is more preferred because it provides better shape retention and a feeling of loosening upon application. When two or more types are combined, there are no particular limitations, but for example, different synthetic waxes can be used in combination, or a synthetic wax and a vegetable wax can be used in combination.
[0012] The content of component (A) in the present invention is 10 to 30% by mass (hereinafter simply abbreviated as %). In the present invention, the lower limit of the content of component (A) is preferably 10% or more, more preferably 12% or more, and even more preferably 14% or more. The upper limit is preferably 30% or less, more preferably 25% or less, and even more preferably 20% or less. This range is more preferable because it provides better shape retention, loosening feeling upon application, and matte finish.
[0013] Component (B) of the present invention is one or more crystallization inhibitors for component (A) selected from the group consisting of talc, boron nitride, dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, and ethyl cellulose, which inhibit the formation of crystals with a house-of-card structure in component (A). In the present invention, by inhibiting the formation of crystals in component (A), an excellent loosening feeling upon application is achieved.
[0014] The talc and boron nitride of the present invention are typically used as powders in cosmetics, and may be used to condition the cosmetic film or adjust the sensory sensation. The talc and boron nitride of the present invention may be surface-treated before use. Here, surface treatment refers to physical or chemical bonding, provided that the base powder is partially or entirely treated. The surface treatment method is not particularly limited, and can be carried out by commonly known techniques. Surface treatment agents are not particularly limited, but examples thereof include fluorine compounds, silicone compounds, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, metal soaps, surfactants, water-soluble polymers, and amino acids.
[0015] On the other hand, dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, and ethyl cellulose are known to gel oils and thicken them in ordinary cosmetics. The dextrin fatty acid ester of the present invention is an ester of a fatty acid and dextrin. The sugar chain of the dextrin is not particularly limited as long as it is suitable for use in cosmetics, and may be linear, branched, or cyclic, and the fatty acid may be linear or branched. The average glucose polymerization degree of the dextrin of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably 3 to 150, more preferably 10 to 100, from the viewpoint of excellent solubility in oils, etc. Furthermore, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms are preferred. The dextrin fatty acid ester of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include dextrin palmitate, dextrin (palmitate / 2-ethylhexanoate), dextrin myristate, dextrin stearate, and dextrin oleate, and one or more of these can be used. Among these, dextrin palmitate and dextrin (palmitate / 2-ethylhexanoate) are more preferred because they provide an excellent loosening feeling upon application. The sucrose fatty acid ester of the present invention is an ester of sucrose and a fatty acid. The fatty acid in the sucrose fatty acid ester of the present invention is preferably a fatty acid having 14 to 20 carbon atoms, and either linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids can be used. Examples include sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose isostearate, etc., and those with a degree of substitution of 4 or more are preferred because they have better compatibility with components (C) and (D) described below, and specific examples include sucrose polystearate, sucrose acetate stearate, etc. The ethyl cellulose of the present invention is cellulose obtained by condensation polymerization of β-glucose, in which some or all of the hydroxyl groups of the glucose units have been substituted with ethyl ether.
[0016] The content of component (B) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.1% or more, more preferably 0.5% or more, and even more preferably 1% or more. The upper limit is preferably 5% or less, more preferably 4% or less, and even more preferably 3% or less. This range is more preferable because it provides better shape retention and a loosening feeling upon application.
[0017] In the present invention, the cosmetic product can be obtained by appropriately incorporating the components (A) and (B), but specifying the mass ratio of the components is preferred because it is expected to have a greater effect on shape retention, loosening sensation upon application, and cosmetic longevity. Such mass ratios are not particularly limited, and the lower limit of the mass ratio (A) / (B) of the components (A) and (B) is preferably 1 or more, more preferably 2 or more, even more preferably 2.5 or more, and even more preferably 3 or more. The upper limit is preferably 18 or less, more preferably 15 or less, even more preferably 10 or less, and even more preferably 7 or less.
[0018] Component (C) in the present invention is an oil agent having an IOB value of less than 0.16. Here, IOB represents the ratio of inorganic value to organic value (inorganic organic balance) determined based on an organic conceptual diagram, and is calculated using the following formula: IOB = Inorganic Value / Organic Value The form of component (C) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16, and any of solid, paste, and liquid forms can be used. Of these, liquid forms are preferred from the standpoints of shape retention and the loosening feeling upon application. Examples of oils with an IOB value of less than 0.16 include liquid paraffin (IOB value 0), cetyl ethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.13), avocado oil (IOB value 0.13), jojoba oil (IOB value 0.07), squalane (IOB value 0), di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dilinoleate (IOB value 0.12), isopropyl isostearate (IOB value 0.15), and ethyl isostearate (IOB value 0. 15), ethylhexyl palmitate (IOB value 0.13), octyldodecyl neodecanoate (IOB value 0.11), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (IOB value 0.15), isotridecyl isononanoate (IOB value 0.15), octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate (IOB value 0.11), isocetyl myristate (IOB value 0.10), dialkyl (C14,15) carbonate (IOB value 0.15), etc. These oils can be used alone or in combination of two or more as needed, and among them, it is more preferable to use one or two or more selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, and dialkyl (C14,15) carbonate, as this provides better shape retention and a loosening feeling upon application.
[0019] The content of component (C) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 15% or more, more preferably 20% or more, even more preferably 25% or more, and even more preferably 30% or more. The upper limit is preferably 60% or less, more preferably 55% or less, even more preferably 50% or less, and even more preferably 45% or less. This range is more preferable because it provides better shape retention, loosening feeling upon application, and matte finish.
[0020] In the present invention, the composition can be obtained by appropriately incorporating the components (A) and (C), but specifying the mass ratio of the components is preferred because it is expected to provide greater effects in terms of shape retention and loosening sensation upon application. Such mass ratios are not particularly limited, and the lower limit of the mass ratio (C) / (A) of the components (A) and (C) is preferably 1 or more, more preferably 1.5 or more, and even more preferably 2 or more. The upper limit is preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3.5 or less, and even more preferably 3 or less.
[0021] Component (D) in the present invention is an oil agent with an IOB value of 0.16 or more. Component (D) in the present invention is not particularly limited in its form, and any of solid, paste, and liquid forms can be used as long as it is an oil agent with an IOB value of 0.16 or more. Of these, liquid forms are preferred from the viewpoints of shape retention and the loosening feeling upon application. The lower limit of the IOB value of component (D) is preferably 0.16 or more. The upper limit is preferably 0.5 or less, more preferably 0.4 or less, and even more preferably 0.35 or less.Examples of such oils with an IOB value of 0.16 or more include decyltetradecanol (IOB value 0.21), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (IOB value 0.16), triisostearin (IOB value 0.16), macadamia nut oil (IOB value 0.16), polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate (IOB value 0.24), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (IOB value 0.17), and polyglyceryl triisostearate. -2 (IOB value 0.16), Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate (IOB value 0.41), Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate (IOB value 0.16), Octyldodecanol (IOB value 0.26), Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.32), Trimethylolpropane Triethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.33), Pentaerythritol Tetraethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.35), Diisopropyl Adipate (IOB value 0.46), diisostearyl malate (IOB value 0.28), propylene glycol dicaprate (IOB value 0.26), neopentyl glycol dicaprate (IOB value 0.25), tripropylene glycol dineopentanoate (IOB value 0.52), isodecyl benzoate (IOB value 0.23), propylene glycol dicaprylate (IOB value 0.32), isononyl isononanoate (IOB value 0.2), ethyl isononanoate Examples of oils include hexyl ether (IOB value 0.2), diethylhexyl sebacate (IOB value 0.24), isodecyl neopentanoate (IOB value 0.22), ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.2), glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.35), diethylhexyl succinate (IOB value 0.32), octyl hydroxystearate (IOB value 0.31), and caprylic / capric triglyceride (IOB value 0.33). These oils can be used alone or in combination as needed, and among them, it is more preferable to use one or more selected from the group consisting of decyltetradecanol, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, as these provide excellent shape retention, loosening sensation upon application, and makeup wear.
[0022] The content of component (D) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 15%, more preferably 20%, even more preferably 25%, and even more preferably 30%. The upper limit is preferably 60%, more preferably 55%, even more preferably 50%, and even more preferably 45%. This range is more preferable because it provides better shape retention, loosening feeling upon application, and makeup lasting power.
[0023] The component (E) partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer in the present invention is not particularly limited, and is a polymer obtained by crosslinking an organopolysiloxane. Polymers having a three-dimensional crosslinked structure as part of their structure are preferred. The component (E) partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer used in the present invention is described, for example, in JP-B-8-6035, JP-A-4-272932, JP-A-5-140320, JP-A-2001-342255, and WO 2003 / 024413. The component (E), a partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer, can be obtained, for example, by addition polymerization of the following "organohydrogenpolysiloxane shown in (a) containing an average of 1.5 or more silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule" with "a compound shown in (b) having an average of 1.5 or more vinyl reactive sites per molecule." The "organohydrogenpolysiloxane shown in (a) containing an average of 1.5 or more silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule" of component (E) is an organohydrogenpolysiloxane containing SiO2 units, HSiO 1.5 Units, RSiO 1.5 Units, RHSiO units, R 2 SiO units, R 3 SiO 0.5 Units and R 2 HSiO 0.5The organohydrogenpolysiloxane is an organohydrogenpolysiloxane that is composed of at least one structural unit selected from the group consisting of (R) and (R) units (where R is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, excluding aliphatic unsaturated groups), and that contains an average of 1.5 or more silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the molecule. The organohydrogenpolysiloxane (E)(a) may be linear, branched, or cyclic, and preferably contains 2 to 50 silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms (Si-H) in one molecule. The "compound (b) having an average of 1.5 or more vinylic reactive sites in the molecule" of component (E) is one or more selected from the following (b-1), (b-2), and (b-3). The (b-1) in (E) is an SiO2 unit, (CH2=CH)SiO 1.5 Units, RSiO 1.5 Unit, R(CH2=CH)SiO unit, R 2 SiO units, R 3 SiO 0.5 Units and R 2 (CH2=CH)SiO 0.5units (wherein R in (E)(b-1) is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, excluding aliphatic unsaturated groups), and the organopolysiloxane contains an average of 1.5 or more vinyl groups bonded to silicon atoms in the molecule. The vinyl-containing organopolysiloxane of (E)(b) may be linear, branched, or cyclic, and preferably contains 2 to 50 vinyl groups bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule. Preferably, the monovalent hydrocarbon group R in the (E)(a) polysiloxane and the (E)(b) polysiloxane includes alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl; aryl groups such as phenyl and tolyl; aliphatic unsaturated groups such as vinyl; aralkyl groups in which hydrogen atoms such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl are substituted with aryl groups such as phenyl and tolyl; cycloalkyl groups such as cyclohexyl; halogenated hydrocarbon groups containing a fluoro group; and hydrocarbon groups containing an ethylene oxide group. Preferably, the (E)(a) polysiloxane and / or the (E)(b) polysiloxane are selected so that the content of at least one of silicic acid atom-bonded hydrogen atoms and silicon atom-bonded vinyl groups is less than 20 mol% based on the total of all organic groups and hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms. Preferably, a portion of R in the (E)(a) polysiloxane or the (E)(b) polysiloxane is a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, excluding aliphatic unsaturated groups. Preferably, at least one R in the (E)(a) polysiloxane or the (E)(b) polysiloxane has 30 mol % or more of the R bonded to silicon atoms in one molecule that are methyl groups, and 5 to 50 mol % are hydrocarbon groups having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. (b-2) of the component (E) is a polyoxyalkylene represented by the following general formula (1): C m H 2m-1 O(C2H4O) p (C3H6O) q C m H 2m-1 (1) (wherein, in the formula (1), p is an integer of 2 to 200, q is an integer of 0 to 200, p+q is an integer of 3 to 200, and m is an integer of 2 to 6.) The (b-3) in (E) is an unsaturated hydrocarbon represented by the following general formula (2). C n H 2n-1 (CH2) r C n H 2n-1 (2) (In the formula (2), n is an integer of 2 to 6, and r is an integer of 1 or more.)
[0024] Specific examples of the partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer (component (E)) used in the present invention, expressed by INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) labeling names, include partially crosslinked methylpolysiloxanes such as (dimethicone / vinyldimethicone) crosspolymers and partially crosslinked methylphenylpolysiloxanes such as (dimethicone / phenyldimethicone) crosspolymers. These are three-dimensionally crosslinked silicones. Furthermore, as the partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer (component (E)) used in the present invention, examples of polymers containing polyoxyalkylene groups in the molecule include partially crosslinked polyether-modified silicones such as (dimethicone / (PEG-10 / 15)) crosspolymers. Furthermore, as the partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer (component (E)) used in the present invention, examples of polymers containing long-chain alkyl groups in the molecule include partially crosslinked alkyl-modified silicones such as (vinyldimethicone / lauryldimethicone) crosspolymers. As the component (E) partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer used in the present invention, examples of polymers containing polyoxyalkylene groups and long-chain alkyl groups in the molecule include partially crosslinked alkyl-polyether co-modified silicones such as (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer; partially crosslinked polyglycerin-modified silicones such as (lauryl dimethicone / polyglycerin-3) crosspolymer and (dimethicone / polyglycerin-3) crosspolymer. As the component (E) partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer used in the present invention, examples of polymers containing halogenated hydrocarbon groups in the molecule include partially crosslinked fluorine-modified silicones such as (trifluoropropyl dimethicone / trifluoropropyldivinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.The partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer (component (E)) used in the present invention preferably contains one or more selected from the group consisting of partially crosslinked methylpolysiloxanes, partially crosslinked methylphenylpolysiloxanes, partially crosslinked polyether-modified silicones, partially crosslinked alkyl-polyether co-modified silicones, and partially crosslinked polyglycerin-modified silicones. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of further enhancing the effects of the present invention, among the partially crosslinked methylpolysiloxanes, a (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer is preferred, among the partially crosslinked alkyl-polyether co-modified silicones, a (PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone) crosspolymer is preferred, and among the partially crosslinked polyglycerin-modified silicones, a (dimethicone / polyglycerin-3) crosspolymer is preferred. The partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer (Component (E)) used in the present invention preferably contains one or more selected from the group consisting of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, PEG-15 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, and dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, which may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Examples of commercially available products include KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-43, KSG-51, KSG-210, KSG-240, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340, KSG-320Z, KSG-350Z, KSG-360Z, KSG-380Z, KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, KSG-840, KSG-820Z, and KSG-850Z (all manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
[0025] The content of component (E) in the present invention is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.5% or more, more preferably 0.7% or more, and even more preferably 1% or more. The upper limit is preferably 5% or less, more preferably 4% or less, and even more preferably 3% or less. In the present invention, the above content is preferred as the solid content, but even when used after swelling with an oil agent, it is preferable that the solid content be within the above content range. This range is more preferred because it provides a better loosening feeling upon application and a better matte finish.
[0026] In addition to the above components (A) to (E), the lip cosmetic of the present invention can contain other components commonly used in cosmetics to the extent that the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Examples of such components include oily components other than components (A) and (C) to (E), powders, surfactants, fibers, aqueous components, UV absorbers, anti-fading agents, antioxidants, antifoaming agents, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, and fragrances.
[0027] The oily solid cosmetic preparation of the present invention can be obtained by a commonly known manufacturing method. Examples of manufacturing methods are shown below, but the present invention is not limited to these. For example, the oily components including components (A) and (C) to (E) are heated and melted at a temperature above the melting point of the wax (e.g., 100 to 110°C), component (B) and other components are added, and the mixture is heated and mixed as necessary, filled into a container, and molded as necessary.
[0028] In the present invention, "oily" refers to a composition in which oil is the continuous phase. As long as oil is the continuous phase, there are no particular limitations on the content, and the composition may contain an aqueous component such as water or ethanol, but from the viewpoint of shape retention, the content is preferably 10% or less, more preferably 5% or less, and even more preferably 1% or less.
[0029] The hardness of the oily solid cosmetic preparation of the present invention is 40 to 350 gf, and can be measured by the following hardness measurement method. <Sample preparation> The molten oily solid cosmetic is poured into a dish-shaped container (for example, a resin container with a diameter of 3.2 cm and a depth of 1.1 cm), left at 25°C for one day, and then stored at 35°C for one hour to prepare a measurement sample. <Measurement> Using a FUDOH RHEOMETER (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) rheometer (comprehensive physical property evaluation device), a needle with a diameter of 3 mm was inserted into the measurement sample at a distance of 6 cm / my The resistance value (gf) when the sample is penetrated 3 mm with a needle can be taken as the hardness. The hardness measurement can be carried out three times, and the average value can be taken as the hardness value.
[0030] The hardness of the oily solid cosmetic preparation of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is 40 to 350 gf, but from the viewpoint of the loosening feeling upon application, the lower limit is 40 gf or more, preferably 60 gf or more, and more preferably 100 gf or more, and the upper limit is 350 gf or less, preferably 330 gf or less, and more preferably 300 gf or less.
[0031] The oily solid cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include lip cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lipstick base coat, and lipstick overcoat; makeup cosmetics such as eye shadow, eyebrow, eyeliner, foundation, concealer, face powder, blush, and makeup base; sunscreen; and beauty stick; with makeup cosmetics and lip cosmetics being preferred, and lip cosmetics being more preferred.
[0032] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.
[0033] Example 1 (Products 1 to 27 of the present invention) and Comparative Examples (Comparative Products 1 to 5): Lip cosmetics (oily solid stick type) The lip cosmetics obtained by the compositions and manufacturing methods shown in Tables 1 to 4 were evaluated for (a) shape retention, (b) loosening sensation upon application, (c) makeup staying power, and (d) matte finish using the methods described below. The results are also shown in Tables 1 to 4.
[0034] [Table 1] *1: A mixture of 1.5% by mass of Red No. 202, 4% by mass of Yellow No. 4, 4% by mass of 2% lecithin-treated titanium dioxide, and 1% by mass of black iron oxide.
[0035] [Table 2]
[0036] [Table 3]
[0037] (Manufacturing method) A. Mix ingredients (1), (2), (4) to (11) uniformly at 110°C until dissolved. Add ingredients (3) and (12) to (14) to BA and mix until uniformly dispersed. The CB is mixed uniformly at 90°C, filled into a stick container, and cooled to room temperature.
[0038] [Table 4]
[0039] (Manufacturing method) A. Mix ingredients (1) to (4) and (6) to (11) uniformly at 110°C until dissolved. Add ingredients (5), (12) to (14) to BA and mix until uniformly dispersed. The CB is mixed uniformly at 90°C, filled into a stick container, and cooled to room temperature.
[0040] (Evaluation Method 1) For the following evaluation item (a), the hardness of each sample was measured under the following measurement conditions. <Measurement conditions> Each sample was melted at 100°C, poured into a resin container with a diameter of 3.2 cm and a depth of 1.1 cm at 90°C, left at 25°C for one day, and then stored at 35°C for one hour to prepare a measurement sample. A rheometer (comprehensive physical property evaluation device) from FUDOH RHEOMETER (manufactured by Fudo Kogyo Co., Ltd.) was used to insert a 3 mm diameter needle into each of the measurement samples at a 6 cm / my The hardness was measured by penetrating the sample 3 mm with a needle. The resistance (gf) was taken as the hardness. The hardness was measured three times and the average value was taken as the hardness. The hardness (average value) was judged based on the following criteria. The results and the hardness (average value) are shown in Tables 1 to 4.
[0041] <Judgment criteria> (Judgment): (Evaluation) A: Hardness greater than 100gf and less than 300gf B: Hardness greater than 60gf and less than 100gf Or higher than 300gf and lower than 330gf C: Hardness: Higher than 40gf and less than 60gf Or higher than 330gf and lower than 360gf D: Hardness 40gf or less or 360gf or more
[0042] (Evaluation Method 2) The following evaluation items (ii) to (iv) were evaluated using a test of each sample by a panel of 20 experts. For evaluation items (ii) to (ii), each panelist applied each sample to their lips, and for (ii), they rated it as good if it did not feel hard and solid when applied and could form a cosmetic film, for (iii), they applied each sample and then went about their normal lives, and rated it as good if it still felt moisturized six hours later, and for (iv), they evaluated whether the cosmetic film had a matte finish immediately after application, and if they did not feel any shine when looking in the mirror and shaking their face from side to side, they rated it as good, and the evaluation was based on the following criteria.
[0043] <Evaluation items> (b) Loosening sensation upon application (C) Makeup lasts (2) Matte finish
[0044] <Judgment criteria> (Judgment): (Evaluation) A: More than 16 out of 20 people answered that they were in good condition. B: Of 20 people, 11 to 15 people answered "good" C: Out of 20 people, 6 to 10 people answered "good" D: Less than 5 out of 20 people answered "good"
[0045] As shown in Tables 1 to 4, the Examples were excellent in all evaluation items, including shape retention, loosening sensation upon application, makeup longevity, and matte finish. On the other hand, Comparative Product 1, which did not contain component (B), and Comparative Product 2, which did not contain component (C), were unsatisfactory in terms of loosening sensation upon application, Comparative Product 3, which did not contain component (D), was moldable but unsatisfactory in terms of shape retention, and because it adhered too much to the lips, the makeup film did not stay neat and tidy, and the makeup longevity was unsatisfactory, Comparative Product 4, which contained less than 10% of component (A), was unsatisfactory in terms of shape retention, matte appearance, and makeup longevity, and Comparative Product 5, which contained more than 30% of component (A), was unsatisfactory in terms of loosening sensation upon application, did not stay neat and tidy, and the makeup longevity was unsatisfactory.
[0046] Example 2 Oily solid lipstick Ingredients (%) 1. (Ethylene / propylene) copolymer 10 2. Candelilla wax (melting point 71.7℃) 4 3. Microcrystalline wax (melting point 60-85℃) 1 4. Beeswax 0.5 5. Dextrin Isostearate 1 6.2% lecithin-treated talc 2 7. Cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate (IOB value 0.13) 25 8. Dilinoleic acid di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl) / Stearyl / Behenyl) (IOB value 0.12) 5 9. Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate remaining 10. (PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone) Crosspolymer 2 11. (Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone) Crosspolymer 1 12. (Vinylpyrrolidone / Hexadecene) Copolymer *2 1 13. Dibutylhydroxytoluene 0.1 14. Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.1 15.Silylated Silica 1 16.2% silicone-treated talc (average particle size 5 μm) 1.5 17. Spherical polymethyl methacrylate (average particle size 10 μm) 2 18. Red No. 202 0.1 19. Water and oil repellent treated red iron oxide coated mica titanium 5 20. Titanium oxide coated synthetic phlogopite (average particle size 13 μm) 0.3 21. Surface-treated mica *3 1 22. DL-α-Tocopherol acetate 0.002 23. Niacinamide 0.3 24. Astaxanthin 0.001 25. Apple Mint Leaf Extract 0.001 26. Lavender oil 0.01 27. Lactobacillus / Rice Fermentation Product *4 0.001 28. Ceramide NG 0.02 29. Hydrolyzed Collagen 0.001 *2: ANTARON V-216 (manufactured by ASHLAND SPECIALTY INGREDIENTS) *3: SE-TA-EX (manufactured by Miyoshi Chemicals) *4: Laughlin-AM·α-LP (manufactured by Technoble)
[0047] (Manufacturing method) A. Dissolve ingredients (1) to (5) and (7) to (12) uniformly at 100 to 110°C. Add ingredients (6) and (13) to (29) to BA and mix until uniformly dispersed. After degassing, the CB was heated to 100°C and poured directly into a metal dish-shaped lipstick container, and after cooling to room temperature, a lipstick was obtained.
[0048] The lipstick of Example 2 had a hardness of 131 gf and was excellent in all evaluation items such as shape retention, loose feeling upon application, makeup staying power, and matte finish.
[0049] Example 3 Oily solid blush Ingredients (%) 1. (Ethylene / propylene) copolymer 5 2. Candelilla wax (melting point 73°C) 12 3. Boron nitride 4 4. Liquid paraffin (IOB value 0) 10 5. Vaseline (IOB value 0) 30 6. Squalane (IOB value 0) 1 7. Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (IOB value 0.41) 6 8. Macadamia nut oil (IOB value 0.16) 1 9. Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate (IOB value 0.24) 18 10. Ethylhexyl palmitate (IOB value 0.13) 5 11. Polyglyceryl triisostearate-2 (IOB value 0.16) Remaining amount 12. (Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3) Crosspolymer 5 13. 1,2-Pentanediol 0.1 14. Bengala 0.5 15. Yellow iron oxide*5 1.3 16. Black iron oxide 0.2 17. Titanium dioxide*6 1.1 18. Aluminum *7 0.2 19. Orange oil 0.01 20. Honey 0.01 21. Rosa canina fruit oil 0.01 22. Succinic acid 0.002 *5: Treated with 2% sodium stearoyl glutamate *6: 1% triethoxycaprylylsilane treatment, average particle size 0.25 μm *7: COSMICOLOR CELESTE FROST SL (manufactured by Toyo Aluminum)
[0050] (Manufacturing method) A. Dissolve ingredients (1), (2), (4) to (12) uniformly at 100 to 110°C. Add ingredients (3) and (13) to (22) to BA and mix until uniformly dispersed. After degassing, the CB was heated to 100°C and poured directly into a jar, and after cooling to room temperature, a blush was obtained.
[0051] The blush of Example 3 had a hardness of 163 gf and was excellent in all evaluation items of shape retention, loose feeling upon application, makeup staying power, and matte finish.
[0052] Example 4 Oily solid eyebrow Ingredients (%) 1. Polyethylene 5 2. Carnauba Wax 10 3. Beeswax 4 4. Sucrose fatty acid ester 3 5. Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (IOB value 0.15) 8 6. Dialkyl carbonate (C14,15) (IOB value 0.15) 12 7. Octyldodecanol (IOB value 0.26) 12 8. Diisostearyl malate (IOB value 0.28) 9 9. Propylene glycol dicaprate (IOB value 0.26) 5 10. Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (IOB value 0.33) 6 11. Ethylhexyl palmitate (IOB value 0.13) 5 12. Polyglyceryl triisostearate-2 (IOB value 0.16) Remaining amount 13. (Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone) Crosspolymer 3 14. Trimethylsiloxysilicate 2 15. Yellow iron oxide 0.3 16. Black iron oxide 0.6 17. Carbon black 0.05 18. Bengala 0.5 19. Silica dimethyl silylate 0.6 20. Rose water 0.2 21. 1,3-butylene glycol 0.1 22. Glycerin 0.3 23. Chlorphenesin 0.2 24. Caprylyl Glycol 0.2 25. Talc 3 26. Lauroyl Lysine 5 27. Sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight 1 million Da) 0.001
[0053] (Manufacturing method) A. Dissolve ingredients (1) to (14) uniformly at 100 to 110°C. Add ingredients (15) to (27) to BA and mix until uniformly dispersed. After degassing, the CB was heated to 100°C and poured directly into a rod-shaped container, and after cooling to room temperature, a mixture was obtained.
[0054] The eyebrow cream of Example 4 had a hardness of 209 gf and was excellent in all evaluation items of shape retention, loose feeling upon application, makeup staying power, and matte finish.
Claims
1. The following components (A) to (E): (A) Wax 10 to 30% by mass (B) one or more crystallization inhibitors for component (A) selected from the group consisting of talc, boron nitride, dextrin fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, and ethyl cellulose; (C) Oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16 (D) Oil with an IOB value of 0.16 or more (E) Partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer Contains the mass ratio of the components (A) and (C) is (C) / (A)=1 to 4, An oily solid cosmetic having a hardness of 40 to 350 gf at 25°C.
2. 2. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the component (C) is one or more oils selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, dialkyl carbonate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dilinoleate.
3. The following components (A) to (D): (A) Wax 10 to 30% by mass (B) one or more crystallization inhibitors for component (A) selected from the group consisting of boron nitride, dextrin fatty acid esters, and ethyl cellulose; (C) Oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16 (D) Oil with an IOB value of 0.16 or more Contains the component (C) is one or more oils selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, dialkyl carbonate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dilinoleate; the component (D) is one or more selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, diisostearyl malate, and methylphenylpolysiloxane; the mass ratio of the components (A) and (C) is (C) / (A)=1 to 4, An oily solid cosmetic having a hardness of 40 to 350 gf at 25°C.
4. 3. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the component (D) is one or more selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, diisostearyl malate, and methylphenylpolysiloxane.
5. The following components (A) to (D): (A) Wax 12 to 30% by mass (B) a crystallization inhibitor for component (A), which is one or more selected from the group consisting of talc, boron nitride, dextrin fatty acid ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, and ethyl cellulose; (C) Oil with an IOB value of less than 0.16 (D) Oil with an IOB value of 0.16 or more Contains the component (C) is one or more oils selected from the group consisting of liquid paraffin, dialkyl carbonate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and di(phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl) dilinoleate; the component (D) is one or more selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, octyldodecanol, decyltetradecanol, and methylphenylpolysiloxane; The content of the component (D) is 15% by mass or more, the mass ratio of the components (A) and (C) is (C) / (A)=2 to 4, An oily solid cosmetic having a hardness of 40 to 350 gf at 25°C.
6. 6. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 3, further comprising a component (E) partially crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymer.
7. 7. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the component (A) is one or more waxes selected from the group consisting of synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes.
8. 8. The oily solid cosmetic preparation according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the components (A) and (B) is (A) / (B)=2.5 to 15.
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