Cosmetic composition for semi-permanent deformation of keratin fibres - Patent Application 20070122997

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, method and use for the semi-permanent shaping of keratin fibers. The present invention provides excellent semi-permanent shaping performance, from eliminating frizz to straightening curls and waves, without impairing the shine of the hair, the handleability of the hair and the conditioning of the hair; without giving unpleasant stinging and itching irritation; and without damaging the hair. The present invention also produces minimal steam when the hair is flat-ironed.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent transformation of hair, its method and use. The cosmetic composition comprises at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or hydrate, at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, diutan gum, at least one fatty alcohol, and at least one nonionic surfactant. [Background technology]

[0002] As an alternative to traditional methods for permanent hair shaping, methods for semi-permanent hair transformation involving alpha-keto acids are known. See, for example, PCT application WO2014 / 072491A1 published May 15, 2014, European application EP3973944A1, and European application EP3973945A1 published March 30, 2022.

[0003] Typically, complex formulations and chemical processes are used to achieve sufficient benefits in straightening and straightening. Even if sufficient straightening and straightening can be achieved using known compositions, these compositions may impair hair gloss and manageability. These compositions may also impart stinging and itching irritation after flat ironing. These compositions may also leave undesirable residues on hair. These compositions may also have a significant damage profile. To compensate for these disadvantages and thereby achieve consumer demand, additional compounds are usually incorporated into the composition, which further complicates the composition. Various aspects, including the incorporation of significant amounts of alpha-keto acids, acidic pH of the composition, the incorporation of additional compounds, etc., impair the sustainability of the composition and also have additional disadvantages because they generate significant amounts of steam during flat ironing, changing the experience of the hairdresser and / or the consumer.

[0004] Thus, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition suitable for the semi-permanent transformation of keratin fibers, particularly human hair. There is also a need to provide a composition that can be used in the so-called "Brazilian hair straightening method." There is also a need to provide a composition with a wide range of activities, from removing frizz to straightening curls and waves. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent transformation of hair while imparting excellent shine to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent transformation of hair while imparting excellent manageability to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent transformation of hair while imparting excellent conditioning to the hair. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent transformation of hair while reducing or even preventing any stinging and itching. There is also a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent transformation of hair while having a very low, or even no, damage profile. There is also a need to provide compositions that are suitable for semi-permanent transformation of hair, while being fully sustainable, in particular by being eco-ethical formulations.

[0005] Therefore, there is a need to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent hair transformation that generates a minimal amount of steam during application of the hair composition, while imparting to the hair the benefits of hair compositions traditionally used for semi-permanent transformation, such as hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage profile.

[0006] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a composition suitable for semi-permanent hair transformation that generates a minimal amount of steam during application of the hair composition while imparting to the hair the benefits of hair compositions traditionally used for semi-permanent transformation, such as hair shine, hair manageability, hair conditioning and damage profile. Summary of the Invention

[0007] Surprisingly, it has been found that the combination of compounds containing a quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and diutan gum, particularly lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride and diutan gum in a gel network system obtained from a mixture of aliphatic alcohols and nonionic surfactants, allows the straightening performance provided by the alpha-keto acid to be maintained without compromising the expected benefits, particularly in terms of hair gloss, hair manageability, hair conditioning, and damage profile, and produces less steam when used in flat ironing. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the inventors believe that the satisfactory performance of the composition may be due to the physical and / or chemical interaction of the two compounds. On the one hand, when applied to hair, both compounds can form hydrogen bonds with each other (physical interaction). On the other hand, when further heat is applied, particularly using a heating device, both compounds can further form covalent bonds with each other (chemical interaction).

[0008] Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent transformation of keratinous fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) Diutan gum; (d) at least one aliphatic alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant different from component (d); The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0009] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid, and 2-ketobutyric acid; preferably, the alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0010] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is laurylmethylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

[0011] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one aliphatic alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C14 to C30 aliphatic alcohols; more preferably linear C 14 ~C 30 and even more preferably selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0012] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one nonionic surfactant is polyoxyethylene C8-C6 30 from the group consisting of alkyl ethers of the above alkyl ethers; preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units 30 more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C9 having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C9 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 and even more preferably selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20.

[0013] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alpha-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 22.0% by weight, more preferably from 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and the diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. the at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or the at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a pH of 4.0 or less, preferably in the range of 1 to 3.5, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.0.

[0015] In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a viscosity determined according to the described method in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa·s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa·s.

[0016] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a weight ratio of component (d) to component (e) in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5; even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.0.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment, components (d) and (e) are included in the composition, partially or entirely, in a gel network system.

[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the composition is a leave-on or rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0019] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for semi-permanent transformation of hair, comprising at least the following steps: (A) providing a cosmetic composition as defined above; (B) applying a cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) Applying heat to the hair using a heating device The present invention relates to a method, including:

[0020] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250°C, preferably in the range of 170 to 230°C, more preferably in the range of 185 to 220°C.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, in step (C), the heating device is a heated iron; preferably the heated iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a curling iron.

[0022] In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for the semi-permanent transformation of hair. [Brief explanation of the drawings]

[0023] [Figure 1a-1b] 1A-1C represent photographs taken using a scanning electron microscope (SEM) of untreated hair (control) samples at magnifications of 2,500x and 10,000x, respectively. [Figure 2a-2b] 1A and 1B represent SEM photographs of samples treated with compositions of the present invention at magnifications of 2,500x and 10,000x, respectively. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0024] Before the present compositions and present formulations are described, it is understood that this invention is not limited to the particular compositions and formulations described, as such compositions and formulations may, of course, vary. It is also understood that the terminology used herein is not intended to be limiting, since the scope of the present invention will be limited only by the appended claims.

[0025] Hereinafter, when a group is defined as including at least a certain number of embodiments, this also preferably means to encompass groups consisting only of those embodiments. Furthermore, terms such as "first," "second," "third," or "a," "b," "c," etc. in the description and claims are used to distinguish between similar elements and do not necessarily describe a sequential or chronological order. Where appropriate, these terms, when so used, are interchangeable, and it is understood that the embodiments of the present invention described herein can be operated in other orders than those described or illustrated herein. Where the terms "first", "second", "third" or "(A)", "(B)" and "(C)" or "(a)", "(b)", "(c)", "(d)", "i", "ii" or other refer to steps of a method or use or assay, in this application, unless otherwise indicated herein above or below, there is no consistency of time or time interval between the steps, i.e., the steps may be performed simultaneously or there may be a time interval of seconds, minutes, hours, days, weeks, months or even years between such steps.

[0026] Furthermore, ranges defined throughout the specification are inclusive of the end values, i.e., a range of 1 to 10 means that both 1 and 10 are included in the range. For the avoidance of doubt, applicants are entitled to any and all equivalents pursuant to applicable law.

[0027] In the following sections, different aspects of the present invention are defined in more detail. Each aspect so defined can be combined with any other aspect(s), unless expressly indicated to the contrary. In particular, any feature indicated as being preferred or advantageous can be combined with any other feature(s) indicated as being preferred or advantageous.

[0028] Throughout this specification, references to "one embodiment" or "an embodiment" mean that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present invention. Thus, the appearances of the phrases "in one embodiment" or "in an embodiment" in various places throughout this specification do not necessarily all refer to the same embodiment, but may refer to the same embodiment. Furthermore, as used below, the terms "preferably," "more preferably," "even more preferably," "most preferably," and "particularly" or similar terms are used in conjunction with optional features without limiting alternative possibilities. Therefore, features introduced by these terms are optional features and are not intended to limit the scope of the claims in any way.

[0029] Furthermore, the particular features, structures, or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner, as would be apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art from this disclosure, in one or more embodiments. Furthermore, one of ordinary skill in the art will understand that while some embodiments described herein include some features but not other features included in other embodiments, combinations of features from different embodiments are within the scope of the present invention and are meant to form different embodiments. For example, in the following claims, any claimed embodiment may be used in any combination.

[0030] Furthermore, it should be noted that the terms "at least one," "one or more," or similar expressions indicating that a feature or element may be present one or more times are typically used only once when introducing each feature or element. Hereinafter, in most cases, when referring to each feature or element, the expressions "at least one" or "one or more" will not be repeated, despite the fact that each feature or element may be present one or more times.

[0031] As used herein, the term "hair" can be "live," i.e., biological, or "non-living," i.e., a wig, hairpiece, or other non-living aggregate of keratin fibers. Mammalian, preferably human, hair is preferred. However, wool, fur, and other keratin fibers (keratin-containing fibers) are suitable substrates for the compositions of the present invention.

[0032] By "cosmetic composition for semi-permanent transformation of keratinous fibers" is meant a hair composition suitable for altering, but not permanently, the wave and frizz of hair. Unless otherwise specified, such compositions will be referred to hereinafter as "compositions" or "compositions of the present invention." The compositions of the present invention can be used to straighten, relax, and / or smooth keratinous fibers, preferably human hair. In contrast, the compositions of the present invention are not suitable for use as permanent shaping compositions, i.e., cosmetic compositions for permanent transformation (i.e., waving), of keratinous fibers, preferably human hair.

[0033] By "substantially free of" it is meant that the composition contains 0.1% by weight or less, preferably 0.01% by weight or less, and more preferably 0% by weight of the compound, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0034] All percentages, unless otherwise specified, are by weight of the composition of the present invention, i.e., the prepared composition, which is the composition that is applied to the hair. Ratios are also by weight unless specifically stated otherwise.

[0035] Cosmetic Composition In a first aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent transformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) diutan gum; (d) at least one fatty alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0036] Alpha-keto acids The composition comprises at least one alpha-keto acid (component (a)), optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof.

[0037] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alpha-keto acid is represented by formula (I) below: R-CO-COOH (I) [wherein R represents hydrogen or a linear or branched, unsubstituted C1-C6 alkyl] It has.

[0038] In preferred embodiments, the at least one alpha-keto acid in the composition is present in the free form, its hydrate form, or its salt form; more preferably in the free form or its hydrate form.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the salt of the at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of salts of alkali metals and salts of alkaline earth metals; preferably, the salt of the at least one alpha-keto acid is a sodium salt.

[0040] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid, optionally in the form of their hydrates or their salts; preferably the at least one alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid, optionally in the form of its hydrates.

[0041] In a preferred embodiment, component (a) is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0 wt. %, more preferably in the range of 5.0 to 22.0 wt. %, and even more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Quaternary ammonium salts of ethoxylated methyl glucose ethers The composition comprises at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (component (b)).

[0043] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is laurylmethylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

[0044] Laurylmethyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride is commercially available from Lubrizol under the trade name Glucquat™ 125 wetting agent.

[0045] In a preferred embodiment, component (b) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Diutan Gum The composition includes diutan gum (component (c)). Diutan gum is an anionic polysaccharide. The diutan gum is a thickener and / or rheology modifier and is added in an amount sufficient to impart viscosity to the composition so that it can be easily applied to hair without excessive dripping and causing a mess.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the diutan gum has a weight average molecular weight in the range of 2.8 million to 5.2 million daltons.

[0048] Diutan gum is commercially available from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol under the trade name Kelco-Care™ Diutan Gum. Diutan gum is a water-soluble polysaccharide that can be produced by bacterial fermentation, particularly from Sphingomonas. Diutan gum is therefore a fermentation extract of Sphingomonas. Diutan gum is composed of six sugar units: d-glucose, d-glucuronic acid, d-glucose (with two l-rhamnose units in the side chain), and l-rhamnose, forming a linear backbone with repeating side chains.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] Fatty alcohol The composition includes at least one fatty alcohol (component (d)). By "fatty alcohol" is meant a non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched alcohol having 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0051] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one aliphatic alcohol is a linear and / or branched C 14 ~C 30 more preferably from the group consisting of linear C 14 ~C 30and even more preferably from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. In a most preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is cetearyl alcohol.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, component (d) is present in an amount ranging from 2.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of fatty alcohol described herein above may account for up to 100% by weight (or 100% by weight) of the total amount of at least one nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0053] Nonionic surfactants The composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant (component (e)). By "nonionic surfactant" is meant any nonionic surfactant other than a fatty alcohol.

[0054] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of nonionic surfactants containing one or more polyethylene oxide chains, including the following compounds: polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene castor oil, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene fatty amides and their monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives, and polyethoxylated fatty amines. More preferably, the at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 and even more preferably, polyoxyethylene C8-C9 having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units. 30 and even more preferably, polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30most preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units. 30 in particular from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20, with steareth-20 being particularly preferred.

[0055] In preferred embodiments, component (e) is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4 wt.%, and even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of nonionic surfactant described herein above can account for up to 100 wt.% (or 100 wt.%) of the total amount of nonionic surfactant in the composition.

[0056] Fatty alcohol:nonionic surfactant weight ratio In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a weight ratio of component (d) to component (e) in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5, and even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.0.

[0057] Gel network system In a preferred embodiment, at least one fatty alcohol and a nonionic surfactant are included in the composition, partially or entirely, in a gel network system.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains the component (d) described herein above and the total amount of the component (d) in the range of 2.7 to 25 wt %, preferably in the range of 3.5 to 19 wt %, more preferably in the range of 5.0 to 12.5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0059] In a preferred embodiment, the formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of at least one fatty alcohol in water containing a surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts and the surfactant breaks down into fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water with it into the at least one fatty alcohol. This transforms the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets into liquid crystalline phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the melting temperature of the chains, the liquid crystalline phase transforms into a solid crystalline gel network. The gel network may particularly contribute to reducing or even eliminating the odor of compounds containing mercapto functional groups.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, 50 to 100 wt %, more preferably 70 to 100 wt %, even more preferably 90 to 100 wt %, and most preferably 100 wt % of component (d) is contained in the gel network. In a preferred embodiment, 50 to 100 wt %, more preferably 70 to 100 wt %, even more preferably 90 to 100 wt %, and most preferably 100 wt % of component (e) is contained in the gel network.

[0061] Cosmetically acceptable carrier In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier or solvent.

[0062] In a preferred embodiment, the solvent is an aqueous carrier; more preferably, an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water and water-soluble polyhydric alcohols; even more preferably, an aqueous carrier selected from the group consisting of water and glycerin; most preferably, the aqueous carrier is water, or alternatively, a mixture of water and glycerin.

[0063] The water-soluble polyhydric alcohol may have two or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule. The polyhydric alcohol may be a dihydric alcohol, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2- or 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol; trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol; trihydric alcohol, such as glycerol, trimethylolpropane, 1,2,6-hexanetriol; tetrahydric alcohol, such as pentaerythritol; pentahydric alcohol, such as xylitol; hexahydric alcohol, such as sorbitol, mannitol; polyhydric alcohol polymer, such as diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol. glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, polyglycerol; dihydric alcohol alkyl ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isoamyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether, ethylene glycol dibutyl ether;Dihydric alcohol alkyl ethers, for example, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, dipropylene glycol Butyl ether; dihydric alcohol ether esters such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol diadipate, ethylene glycol disuccinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate, and propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol and glycerol.

[0064] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount of 55.0% by weight or more, more preferably 60.0% by weight or more, even more preferably 65.0% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is present in an amount in the range of 55.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 60.0 to 85.0% by weight, even more preferably 65.0 to 80.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0065] The composition may contain water as the only cosmetically acceptable carrier. In this embodiment, the composition is substantially free of water-soluble polyhydric alcohols. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of 55.0 wt. % or more, more preferably 60.0 wt. % or more, and even more preferably 65.0 wt. % or more, based on the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount ranging from 55.0 to 90.0 wt. %, preferably from 60.0 to 85.0 wt. %, and more preferably from 65.0 to 80.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Alternatively, the composition may comprise water as the primary cosmetically acceptable carrier and at least one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol as the secondary cosmetically acceptable carrier. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount of 50.0 wt. % or more, preferably 55.0 wt. % or more, and more preferably 60.0 wt. % or more, based on the total weight of the composition, with the remainder of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consisting of one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol. In a preferred embodiment, water is present in an amount ranging from 50.0 to 85.0 wt. %, preferably from 55.0 to 80.0 wt. %, and more preferably from 60.0 to 75.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition, with the remainder of the cosmetically acceptable carrier consisting of one water-soluble polyhydric alcohol.

[0067] Additional Surfactants In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains at least one surfactant other than a nonionic surfactant, albeit in a small amount, for example in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. Suitable surfactants generally have a lipophilic chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and can be selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0068] However, in alternative preferred embodiments, the composition is substantially free of additional surfactants other than nonionic surfactants. The composition can be substantially free of anionic surfactants. The composition can be substantially free of amphoteric surfactants. The composition can be substantially free of cationic surfactants.

[0069] Additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers (substantially free) In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers other than diutan gum.

[0070] For example, additional thickeners and / or rheology modifiers may be xanthan gum, tara gum, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, N-vinylpyrrolidone, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, polyethoxylated urethane or polycarbamyl polyglycol esters, e.g., PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI copolymer, They may be selected from the group consisting of PEG-150 / stearyl / SMDI copolymer, trihydroxystearin, acrylate copolymers or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (e.g., acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer), acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / Clu-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, and nonionic amphoteric polymers containing at least one hydrophilic unit selected from at least one fatty chain and polyether urethanes containing at least one fatty chain; in particular xanthan gum.

[0071] Cationic polymer (substantially free) In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of cationic polymers other than the quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether.

[0072] Reducing agent (virtually free) In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of reducing agents, particularly reducing agents containing mercapto functional groups.Reducing agents are compounds suitable for reducing disulfide bonds in hair.Reducing agents are usually present in cosmetic compositions for permanently transforming keratin fibers.For example, the reducing agent can be selected from the group consisting of cysteamine, cysteine, thioglycolic acid, and their salts.

[0073] Alkalizing agent (virtually free) In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of alkalizing agents other than pH adjusting agents.Alkaline agents are usually present in cosmetic compositions to permanently deform keratin fibers.For example, the alkalizing agent can be selected from the group consisting of ammonia and monoethanolamine.

[0074] Colorants (virtually free) In a preferred embodiment, the composition is substantially free of colorants, which may be selected from the group consisting of direct dyes, pigments, and oxidative dye precursors (including bases and toning agents).

[0075] liquid oil In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one liquid oil.

[0076] For example, the liquid oil may be selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, kaya seed oil, rice bran oil, Chinese tung oil, Japanese tung oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate, liquid lanolin, hexyl laurate, liquid hydrocarbon esters such as liquid paraffin, mineral oil, isododecane, fatty acid oils, squalene, ester oils such as cetyl octanoate and isopropyl myristate.

[0077] When present, the at least one liquid oil is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of liquid oil. The absence of liquid oil can help avoid the generation of significant amounts of steam when the hair is heated, for example, by using a flat iron.

[0078] solid fats and waxes In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one solid fat and a wax.

[0079] For example, solid fats and waxes include cocoa fat, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, mutton tallow, hydrogenated tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, wood wax kernel oil, and hydrogenated castor oil; lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, reduced lanolin, hard lanolin, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, polyethylene glycol lanolin fatty acid, and POE hardened lanolin alcohol ether; hydrocarbons, nonvolatile hydrocarbons, and solid The wax may be selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon esters such as solid paraffin, vaseline, ozokerite, pristane, ceresin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax; phospholipids such as lecithin or ceramide, beeswax, apple wax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, insect wax, spermaceti, montan wax, rice bran wax, kapok wax, sugarcane wax, jojoba wax, and shellac wax. The wax is not a fatty alcohol.

[0080] When present, at least one solid fat and wax is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of solid fats and waxes. The absence of solid fats and waxes can help avoid the generation of significant amounts of steam when the hair is heated, for example, by using a flat iron.

[0081] silicone In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one silicone.Silicone can be volatile or nonvolatile, and soluble or insoluble." soluble" means that silicone is miscible with the aqueous carrier of the composition, so that they form the same phase." insoluble" means that silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the aqueous carrier, for example, in the form of silicone emulsion or droplet suspension.

[0082] For example, the soluble silicone can be selected from the group consisting of silicone copolyols, such as dimethicone copolyols, polyether siloxane-modified polymers, such as polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide-modified polydimethylsiloxanes, where the level of ethylene and / or propylene oxide is sufficient to allow solubility in the composition. The insoluble silicone can have a viscosity of 1,000 to 2,000,000 mPa·s at 25°C, preferably 10,000 to 1,800,000 mPa·s, and more preferably 100,000 to 1,500,000 mPa·s. Viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as described in Dow Corning Corporation (Gorparate) Test Method CTM0004, dated July 20, 1970. In particular, the insoluble silicone can be selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxane, polyarylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxane, polyethersiloxane copolymer, dimethylpolysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl groups, methylphenylpolysiloxane containing terminal hydroxyl groups, and their mixtures, low molecular weight oligomeric polydimethylsiloxane or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, polyethersiloxane copolymer. Particularly preferred silicone conditioning polymers are CTFA: dimethicone, amodimethicone, dimethicone bisaminohydroxypropyl copolyol, bisaminoPEG / PPG-41 / 3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxane (CTFA: dimethiconol). Also preferred are volatile silicones, such as CTFA: dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, and cyclodimethicone.

[0083] When present, the at least one silicone is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition may be substantially free of silicones.

[0084] Swelling agent In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one swelling agent. So-called swelling agents and penetrating substances can be added to the hair shaping composition, examples being urea, melamine, ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, 2-pyrrolidone, imidazolidin-2-one, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, alkali or ammonium thiocyanates, polyhydric alcohols, isopropanol; preferably the swelling agent and penetrating substance is urea.

[0085] When present, the swelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition can be substantially free of swelling agents.

[0086] additives The composition may further include conventional and known additives.

[0087] For example, suitable additives are: alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol; sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucrase, erythritol, glucose, fructose, starch sugars, maltose, xylytose, starch sugar reducing alcohols; preservatives, such as benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben and imidazolidinyl urea; antioxidants, such as tocopherol; sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate, ethylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid and its salts; salts, such as sodium chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium chloride, sodium sulfide, potassium sulfide and ammonium sulfide, salts. pearlizing auxiliaries, such as ethylene glycol distearate and mica; UV filters and sunscreens, such as p-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, fat-soluble cinnamates, salicylic acid esters, 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives or hydrophilic sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or 3-benzylidene camphor; pH adjusters, such as citric acid, formic acid, acetic acid, butyric acid, pyruvic acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; opacifying agents, such as kaolin and titanium dioxide; solubilizers; perfume oils; pigments; and amino acids and / or hydrolyzed proteins.

[0088] When present, alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight; each sugar alcohol, salt, pearlizing aid, and UV filter and sunscreen is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight; and each antioxidant, pH adjuster, sequestering agent, opacifying agent, preservative, perfume oil, solubilizer, amino acid, and hydrolyzed protein and / or pigment is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] pH In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a pH of 4.0 or less, more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 3.5, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.0.

[0090] The pH of the composition can be adjusted using a pH adjusting agent, including an oxidizing and / or basifying agent.The basifying agent can be selected from the group consisting of mineral alkalis, organic alkalis, and alkali hydrides.For example, a suitable mineral alkali can be selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; preferably, the mineral alkali is sodium hydroxide.

[0091] viscosity In a preferred embodiment, the composition has a viscosity at 25°C in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa·s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa·s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa·s.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, viscosity is determined as follows: Viscosity measurements are performed on a TA Instruments AR500, AR1000, or AR2000 type controlled stress rheometer, or equivalent equipment. A 6 cm flat acrylic cross-hatched parallel plate geometry (TA item 518600.901) and a stainless steel cross-hatched base plate (TA item 570011.001) are used. The rheometer is prepared for flow measurements according to the standard manufacturer's procedure. The gap of the parallel plate geometry is set to 1,000 microns. A flow procedure is programmed into the rheometer using the following conditions: a continuous stress ramp of 2 minutes at 25°C, 0.1 to 300 Pa, in linear mode, with 250 measurement points. The product is loaded into the geometry according to the standard procedure. 10 sec -1 The shear stress value at a shear rate of 1 / 2 is obtained from the shear stress vs shear rate curve and the corresponding viscosity is calculated by dividing the obtained shear stress by 10.

[0093] Application form In one embodiment, the composition is a leave-on composition. "Leave-on" refers to a composition that is not rinsed off after application to the hair, particularly before flat-ironing the hair. In an alternative embodiment, the composition is a rinse-off composition. "Rinse-off" refers to a composition that is rinsed off after application to the hair, particularly before flat-ironing the hair. The composition is preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0094] The inventors have shown that after application, when the hair is heated, for example, by using a flat iron, the composition generates minimal steam. This is particularly advantageous when compared with conventional cosmetic compositions used for semi-permanent hair transformation. In fact, conventional cosmetic compositions can generate a considerable amount of steam when the hair is heated, for example, by using a flat iron. This is inconvenient for hairdressers and / or users, as it can irritate eyes and mucous membranes and produce undesirable / unpleasant odors. This is particularly inconvenient in beauty salons, where several hairdressers are working at the same time.

[0095] Method for semi-permanent transformation of hair In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for semi-permanent transformation of hair, said method comprising the steps of: (A) providing a cosmetic composition as described above; (B) applying a cosmetic composition to the hair; (C) Applying heat to the hair using a heating device.

[0096] The composition can be applied to dry hair and left on the hair at room temperature, preferably at a temperature in the range of 18 to 35° C. The contact time of the composition with the hair is preferably in the range of 10 to 60 minutes, more preferably in the range of 20 to 40 minutes.

[0097] The application of heat to the hair (ie, heat treatment) preferably consists of heating the hair to a temperature in the range of 150-250°C, preferably in the range of 170-230°C, more preferably in the range of 185-220°C.

[0098] When applying heat, the heating device is passed over the hair at least once, preferably 5 to 15 times, more preferably 8 to 10 times. The heating device is preferably selected from known heating devices; more preferably, the heating device is a heating iron, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron and a curling iron. The heating iron usually includes heating tongs, which are generally metal heating tongs.

[0099] Prior to applying the composition of the present invention, the hair can be washed, for example, using a shampoo composition and rinse with water. After rinsing, the hair can be dried, for example, using a blow dryer, prior to applying the composition of the present invention.

[0100] A pre-treatment composition may be applied to the hair prior to applying the composition of the present invention.

[0101] A post-treatment composition can be applied to the hair after the application of heat. The post-treatment composition can be, for example, a conditioning composition.

[0102] use In a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for the semi-permanent transformation of hair.

[0103] advantage The present invention offers one or more of the following advantages: - The composition provides excellent semi-permanent molding performance; - the composition provides hair manageability and hair conditioning; - the composition does not cause any unpleasant stinging or itching sensation; - The composition does not damage hair; - the composition produces a minimal amount of vapor upon application; - the composition provides sufficient consistency, rinsability, combability after washing (before flat ironing), combability with the product, hair feel before flat ironing, hair feel after blow drying and / or straightening; - the composition contains only a few ingredients and is therefore easy to manufacture; and The composition does not deposit on the hair.

[0104] Embodiment Exemplary embodiments of the present invention are listed below, but are not intended to limit the present invention. In particular, the present invention also encompasses embodiments resulting from the dependent references and, consequently, combinations specified hereinafter in this specification. More specifically, when naming the range of the following embodiments, for example, the phrase "the method according to any one of embodiments 1 to 4" should be understood to mean that any combination of embodiments within this range is expressly disclosed to one skilled in the art, and this phrase should be considered synonymous with "the method according to any one of embodiments 1, 2, 3, and 4."

[0105] Embodiment 1 - A cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent transformation of keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of a salt thereof or a hydrate thereof; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) Diutan gum; (d) at least one aliphatic alcohol; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant different from component (d); A cosmetic composition comprising:

[0106] Embodiment 2 - The composition of embodiment 1, wherein the at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid, preferably the alpha-keto acid is glyoxylic acid.

[0107] Embodiment 3 - The composition of embodiment 1 or 2, wherein component a) is present in an amount in the range of 3.0 to 25.0 wt.%, preferably in the range of 5.0 to 22.0 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 10.0 to 19.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0108] Embodiment 4 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 3, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is laurylmethylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

[0109] Embodiment 5 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 4, wherein component b) is present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, and even more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Embodiment 6 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the diutan gum has a weight average molecular weight in the range of 2.8 million daltons to 5.2 million daltons, determined according to the method described.

[0111] Embodiment 7 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein component c) is present in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 1.0 wt.%, preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.5 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 0.01 to 0.3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Embodiment 8 - At least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of linear or branched C14 to C30 fatty alcohols; more preferably linear C 14 ~C 30 8. The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

[0113] Embodiment 9 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein component d) is present in an amount in the range of 2.5 to 20.0 wt.%, preferably in the range of 3 to 15 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 4 to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0114] Embodiment 10 - At least one nonionic surfactant is a polyoxyethylene C8-C 30 from the group consisting of alkyl ethers of the above alkyl ethers; preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having at least two ethylene oxide units, or at least five ethylene oxide units 30 more preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C9 having 10 to 50 ethylene oxide units. 30 from the group consisting of alkyl ethers of the above; preferably polyoxyethylene C8-C10 having 15 to 30 ethylene oxide units 30 more preferably selected from the group consisting of ceteareth-25 and steareth-20.

[0115] Embodiment 11 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 10, wherein component e) is present in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 5.0 wt.%, more preferably in the range of 0.5 to 4 wt.%, even more preferably in the range of 1.0 to 2.5 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Embodiment 12 (a) the at least one alpha-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from 3.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 22.0% by weight, and more preferably from 10.0 to 19.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (c) diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 15.0% by weight, and more preferably from 4.0 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (e) at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, and even more preferably from 1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; 12. The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 11.

[0117] Embodiment 13 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 12, having a pH of 4.0 or less, preferably in the range of 1 to 3.5, more preferably in the range of 1.5 to 3.0.

[0118] Embodiment 14 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1-13, further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0119] Embodiment 15 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 14, having a viscosity, determined according to the method described at 25°C, in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa s, preferably in the range of 200 to 1,500 mPa s, more preferably in the range of 500 to 1,000 mPa s.

[0120] Embodiment 16 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1 to 15, comprising a weight ratio of component (d) to component (e) in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10.0:4.0, more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.0 to 10.0:3.5, and even more preferably in the range of 10.0:1.5 to 10.0:3.0.

[0121] Embodiment 17 - The composition of any one of embodiments 1-16, wherein component (d) and component (e) are included in the composition, in part or in whole, in a gel network system.

[0122] Embodiment 18 - A composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 17, which is a leave-on or rinse-off composition; preferably a rinse-off composition.

[0123] Embodiment 19 - A method for semi-permanent transformation of hair, comprising at least the following steps: (A) providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 18; (B) applying a cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) Applying heat to the hair using a heating device A method comprising:

[0124] Embodiment 20 - The method of embodiment 19, wherein in step (C), the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250°C, preferably in the range of 170 to 230°C, more preferably in the range of 185 to 220°C.

[0125] Embodiment 21 - The method of embodiment 19 or 20, wherein in step (C), the heating device is a heating iron.

[0126] Embodiment 22 - The method of embodiment 21, wherein the heated iron is selected from the group consisting of a straightening flat iron or a curling iron.

[0127] Embodiment 23 - Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 18 for the semi-permanent transformation of hair.

[0128] While the invention has been described with respect to specific embodiments thereof, certain modifications and equivalents will be apparent to those skilled in the art and are intended to be included within the scope of the invention. [Example]

[0129] The present invention will be illustrated in more detail by the following non-limiting examples. More specifically, the test methods specified hereinafter are part of the entire disclosure of the application and are not limited to the specific examples.

[0130] material Glyoxylic acid: Weylchem ​​Glyoxo HighPure 50 Laurylmethyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride: Lubrizol's Glucquat™ 125 wetting agent Diutan gum: Kelco-Care™ Diutan gum from CP Kelco France or Lubrizol Cetearyl alcohol Steareth-20 water glycerin Sodium hydroxide

[0131] Preparation of the cosmetic composition The formation of the gel network involves heating a dispersion of a fatty alcohol in water containing a nonionic surfactant to a temperature above 80°C. During the mixing process, the fatty alcohol melts and the surfactant breaks down into fatty alcohol droplets. The surfactant brings water with it into the fatty alcohol. This transforms the isotropic fatty alcohol droplets into liquid crystalline phase droplets. When the mixture is cooled below the melting temperature of the chains, the liquid crystalline phase transforms into a solid crystalline gel network. The other ingredients are then added to obtain the mixture.

[0132] formulation TIFF0007828508000001.tif90170

[0133] Method for semi-permanent transformation of hair The semi-permanent molding method includes the following steps: (A) washing hair with a shampoo composition; (B) Combing or brushing hair; (C) towel drying the hair; (D) Blow-drying the hair for, e.g., 1 minute; (E) Combing or brushing hair; (F) applying a cosmetic composition for semi-permanent transformation to hair; (G) Combing or brushing hair; (H) leaving the composition on the hair for a sufficient time to transform the hair, for example, approximately 20 minutes; (I) rinsing the hair to thoroughly cleanse the composition; (J) blow-drying the hair; and (K) Divide your hair into small sections and run the flat iron through each section from root to tip 6 to 8 times.

[0134] Example 1: Half-head test The hair damage caused by the compositions of the present invention (Invention) was examined using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and in five different models using a half-head test.

[0135] Test formulation The composition (invention) has the following formulation: 15.0% by weight of glyoxylic acid, 6.75% by weight of cetearyl alcohol, 4.96% by weight of glycerin, 2.0% by weight of lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride, 1.48% by weight of steareth-20, 3.0% by weight of sodium hydroxide, 0.15% by weight of diutan gum, and an appropriate amount of 100% by weight of water. Untreated hair was used as a control.

[0136] Sample preparation Approximately 10 single hair fibers per sample were attached to an alumina stub using conductive double-sided adhesive tape.

[0137] SEM Protocol SEM examination was performed using the following conditions: - Instrument: Zeiss Ultra 55 by Mantis - Mode: HV - Acc. Voltage: 0 / 8kV - Working distance: 7mm - Tilt: 0° - Detection: SE2 - Coating: Uncoated - Documentation: * .TIF

[0138] result Untreated samples (controls) have almost no to only minor damage (see Figure 1a / b for an illustration).

[0139] Compared to the untreated samples, none of the five samples tested with the present composition (invention) showed any discernible damage, representing a 100% success. See Figure 2a / b for an illustration of undamaged samples treated with the present composition (invention).

[0140] Variations and modifications of the present invention and further embodiments thereof, in addition to those described herein, will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the entire contents of this document. The subject matter herein includes information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of various embodiments of the invention and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

[0141] Example 2: Comparative study The performance of the composition of the present invention (Composition A) was compared to the performance of three comparative compositions (Comparatives) that either did not contain diutan gum (Composition 1), did not contain a quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide (Composition 2), or did not contain both compounds (Composition 3).

[0142] Test formulation The test composition has the following formulation: TIFF0007828508000002.tif77170

[0143] Protocol A hairstylist applied the compositions to the mannequin's hair and evaluated and compared their performance based on different properties, benefits and / or advantages.

[0144] The hairdressers rated the performance of each composition for its respective property, benefit or advantage using the following scale: TIFF0007828508000003.tif45170

[0145] result The results of the hairdressers' evaluations are summarized in the table below: TIFF0007828508000004.tif71170

[0146] The results reported in Table 4 demonstrate that the compositions of the present invention exceed expectations, providing equal or improved performance depending on the property, benefit, or advantage considered.

[0147] Variations and modifications of the present invention and further embodiments thereof, in addition to those described herein, will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the entire contents of this document. The subject matter herein includes information, examples, and guidance that can be adapted to the practice of various embodiments of the invention and their equivalents. The appended claims are intended to cover all such variations, modifications, embodiments, and equivalents.

Claims

1. 1. A cosmetic composition for the semi-permanent transformation of keratin fibers, comprising: (a) at least one alpha-keto acid, optionally in the form of its salt or hydrate; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; (c) diutan gum; (d) at least one aliphatic alcohol, which is a non-alkoxylated, saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched, alcohol having from 14 to 30 carbon atoms; and (e) at least one nonionic surfactant different from component (d); A cosmetic composition comprising:

2. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one alpha-keto acid is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid, and 2-ketobutyric acid.

3. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether containing an average of 5 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide is laurylmethylgluceth-10 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride.

4. At least one aliphatic alcohol is a linear C １４ ~C ３０ 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of:

5. At least one nonionic surfactant is polyoxyethylene C ８ ~C ３０ 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the alkyl ether is selected from the group consisting of:

6. (a) the at least one alpha-keto acid is present in an amount ranging from 3.0 to 25.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one quaternary ammonium salt of an ethoxylated methyl glucose ether is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (c) diutan gum is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; (d) at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 2.5 to 20.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition; and / or (e) at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 5.0 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition; The composition of claim 1.

7. 10. The composition of claim 1 having a pH of 4.0 or less.

8. 10. The composition of claim 1, having a viscosity in the range of 100 to 2,000 mPa.s, determined according to the method described at 25°C.

9. 2. The composition of claim 1, comprising a weight ratio of component (d) to component (e) in the range of 10.0:0.5 to 10.0:4.

0.

10. 10. The composition of claim 1, wherein component (d) and component (e) are partially or completely contained in the composition in a gel network system.

11. 10. The composition of claim 1 which is a leave-on or rinse-off composition.

12. 1. A method for semi-permanent transformation of hair, comprising at least the following steps: (A) providing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11; (B) applying a cosmetic composition to the hair; and (C) applying heat to the hair using a heating device A method comprising:

13. 13. The method of claim 12, wherein in step (C) the hair is heated to a temperature in the range of 150 to 250°C.

14. 13. The method of claim 12, wherein in step (C), the heating device is a heating iron.

15. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for semi-permanent transformation of hair.

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