Oil-based solid cosmetic

Abstract

To provide oily solid cosmetics with excellent high-temperature stability and usability, and a smooth surface.SOLUTION: The above problems are solved by an oily solid cosmetic with: (A) a solid and / or semi-solid oil; (B) an oily component that is liquid at 25°C; (C) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20 and a constituent fatty acid being one or more selected from the group consisting of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and branched fatty acids; and (D) a polyglycerol fatty acid ester having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20 and a constituent fatty acid being at least one or more selected from the group consisting of monocarboxylic acids and derivatives thereof as well as at least one or more selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol acids and derivatives thereof.SELECTED DRAWING: None

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to an oily solid cosmetic.

Background Art

[0002] Oily solid cosmetics are applied to a wide range of dosage forms such as skin care, cleansing, and makeup used by applying them to the skin and lips (Patent Documents 1 and 2). In oily solid cosmetics, in addition to liquid oil, solid oil such as wax is blended, and an oil gel structure in which the fluidity of the liquid oil is suppressed is formed by the liquid oil being incorporated into the card house structure formed by the solid oil. Further, oily solid cosmetics have better handling properties than liquid dosage forms, and have the property that when stress is applied during use, a part of the structure collapses and the liquid oil spreads.

[0003] Conventional oily solid cosmetics have had problems such as the oil gel structure becoming hard and difficult to take out of the container at low temperatures such as in winter, and becoming difficult to spread. In order to solve these problems, there has been a technique of adjusting the melting point and crystallinity by using polyethylene, polypropylene, synthetic wax, or microcrystalline wax, which are petroleum-based raw materials, as the wax of the solidifying component. However, in recent years, due to the demand for sustainable raw materials, the demand for formulations that do not use petroleum-based waxes has been increasing, and simply reducing the solid oil without using petroleum-based waxes has caused problems such as liquefaction at high temperatures. And when a solid oil with a high melting point is blended to impart high-temperature stability, it is difficult to spread during application and the elongation becomes poor, so it has been difficult to achieve both usability and storage stability in oily solid cosmetics.

[0004] Also, there is a method of stabilizing the oil gel structure even at high temperatures by using an oil gelling agent in combination, but dextrin fatty acid esters and amino acid derivatives of the oil gelling agent have a high dissolution temperature and need to be heated to 100 °C or higher, and problems such as the surface of the molded cosmetic becoming rough and the appearance being impaired are likely to occur, and it cannot be said that it is a sufficient solution to the problem.

Prior Art Documents

[0005] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2021-017401 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2017-095375 [Overview of the Initiative] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0006] The present invention aims to provide an oil-based solid cosmetic composition that is excellent in high-temperature stability and usability, and has a smooth surface. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] As a result of diligent research, the present inventors have found that an oily solid cosmetic composition using (A) a solid oil and / or semi-solid oil, (B) an oily component that is liquid at 25°C, (C) a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20 and comprising one or more constituent fatty acids selected from the group consisting of unsaturated fatty acids and branched fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and (D) a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20 and comprising at least one constituent fatty acid selected from the group consisting of monocarboxylic acids and their derivatives, and at least one constituent fatty acid selected from the group consisting of polycarboxylic acids and their derivatives, solves the above problems. [Effects of the Invention]

[0008] The oil-based solid cosmetic composition of the present invention exhibits excellent high-temperature stability, good spreadability during application, and superior appearance during molding. Furthermore, the oil-based solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is easy to spread even without the use of petroleum-based waxes, and satisfies the demand for formulations made solely from sustainable raw materials. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0009] The present invention will be described in detail below. The scope of the present invention is not limited to these embodiments, and any modified forms that do not impair the spirit of the invention also belong to the present invention. The "~" in the range notation includes both an upper and lower limit. Unless otherwise specified, all units indicating content are in weight percent.

[0010] The solid or semi-solid oil of component (A) is not particularly limited, but examples of petroleum-based waxes include hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene wax (melting point: 90-120°C), paraffin wax (melting point: 50-70°C), microcrystalline wax (melting point: 54-102°C), Fischer-Tropsch wax (melting point: 108-120°C), ceresin (melting point: 61-95°C), and okezolite (melting point: 61-90°C). Examples of natural waxes include carnauba wax (melting point: 80-86°C), beeswax (melting point: 64°C), candelilla wax (melting point: 68-72°C), rice bran wax (melting point: 70-83°C), and jojoba wax (melting point: 55°C). Other examples include hydrogenated jojoba oil (melting point: 68°C), hydrogenated castor oil (melting point: 84°C), hydrogenated palm oil (melting point: 65°C), hydrogenated coconut oil (melting point: 70°C), tristearin, tribehenin, shea butter (melting point: 36-45°C), macadamia nut oil polyglyceryl-6 esters behenate, and (isostearate / behenate)(glyceryl / polyglyceryl-6) esters (melting point: 28-40°C), which are composed of naturally derived raw materials. These can be used individually or in combination of two or more. From the viewpoint of shape retention and storage stability, the melting point of the entire component (A) is preferably 40-110°C, and more preferably 60-110°C. Furthermore, it is more preferable that the present invention does not contain petroleum-based waxes.

[0011] Component (A) is preferably blended in an amount of 1-30% of the oil-based solid cosmetic composition, and more preferably in an amount of 3-20%.

[0012] The liquid oily component used in component (B) is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil that is liquid at 25°C. For example, isocetyl isostearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanoate, pentaerythryl tetraoctanoate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl sebacate, diisostearyl malate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, 2-Hexyldecyl lysate, Octyldodecyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-Hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-Heptylundecyl palmitate, Ethyl stearate, Isocetyl stearate, Decyl oleate, Dodecyl oleate, Oleyl oleate, Lauryl lactate, Cholesteryl 12-Hydroxystearate, Methyl castor oil fatty acid ester, 2-Ethylhexyl succinate, 2-Hexyldecyl adipate, Di-2-Heptylundecyl adipate, Sebachi Diisopropyl acetate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebatate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, hexyl laurate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl succinate, triethylhexanoin, tripropylene glycol dipivalate, glycerin tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glycerin trimyristate, glyceride tri-2-heptyl undecanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, glyceryl triisopalmitate Phosphorus, caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / caprine / myristic / stearic acid glyceride, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl trioleate, glyceryl trilinoleate, glyceryl tripalmitoleate, fluorine-modified ester oils, and other ester oils, as well as linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, apricot kernel oil, cinnamon oil, jojoba oil, grape oil,It may also be ester oils derived from animals or plants such as sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, wheat germ oil, rice germ oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, evening primrose oil, egg yolk oil, beef tallow, liver oil, etc.; hydrocarbon oils such as α-olefin oligomers, light isoparaffins, light liquid isoparaffins, liquid isoparaffins, liquid paraffins, squalane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene; linear silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, etc. Examples include cyclic silicones such as camethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, silicone oils such as amino-modified silicone oil, polyether-modified silicone oil, carboxy-modified silicone oil, alkyl-modified silicone oil, ammonium salt-modified silicone oil, and fluorine-modified silicone oil; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, tall oil fatty acids, and isostearic acid; and higher alcohols such as lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and jojoba alcohol. It is preferable to use vegetable oils.

[0013] (B) The liquid oily component is preferably blended in an amount of 1 to 50% of the oily solid cosmetic composition, and more preferably in an amount of 10 to 40%.

[0014] The polyglycerol fatty acid ester of component (C) has an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20 and its constituent fatty acids are unsaturated fatty acids and / or branched fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0015] (C) The polyglycerin constituting the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is polyglycerin having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 15. Here, the average degree of polymerization is the average degree of polymerization (n) of polyglycerin calculated from the hydroxyl value by the end group analysis method. Specifically, it is calculated from the following formulas (1) and (2). Molecular weight=74n+18 (1) Hydroxyl value = 56110(n+2) / Molecular weight ... (2)

[0016] In formula (2) above, the hydroxyl value is a numerical value that serves as an indicator of the magnitude of the number of hydroxyl groups contained in polyglycerin, and refers to the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide required to neutralize the acetic acid necessary to acetylate the free hydroxyl groups contained in 1 g of polyglycerin. The number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide is calculated in accordance with the "Standard Test Methods for Analysis of Fats and Oils, 2003 Edition," compiled by the Japan Oil Chemists' Society.

[0017] (C) The fatty acids constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester are one or more selected from the group consisting of unsaturated fatty acids and branched fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with isostearic acid and oleic acid having 18 carbon atoms being preferred.

[0018] (C) The esterification rate of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is preferably 30-100%, more preferably 40-100%, and most preferably 70-100%. Here, the esterification rate is the value calculated by the following formula (3), where n is the average degree of polymerization of the polyglycerin calculated from the hydroxyl value, n is the number of hydroxyl groups in the polyglycerin (n+2), and M is the number of moles of fatty acid added to the polyglycerin. The hydroxyl value is the value calculated by the above formula (2). Esterification rate (%) = (M / (n+2)) × 100 ... (3)

[0019] (C) As polyglycerol fatty acid esters, specifically, diglyceryl 2-ethylhexanoate, diglyceryl isostearate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, triglyceryl isostearate, tetraglyceryl diisostearate, decaglyceryl pentaisostearate, decaglyceryl nonaisostearate, decaglyceryl decaisostearate, diglyceryl oleate, triglyceryl oleate, tetraglyceryl oleate, hexaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl deca-2-ethylhexanoate, etc. may be mentioned, and one or more of these are used. As product names, IS-204P, IS-1009P, IS-1005P, KEH-1010, O-201P (all manufactured by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.), etc. may be mentioned.

[0020] (C) The polyglycerol fatty acid ester is preferably blended in an amount of 5 to 70%, more preferably 10 to 60%, based on the oily solid cosmetic. By setting it within the range of 5 to 70% with respect to the oily solid cosmetic, an oily solid cosmetic excellent in high-temperature stability and having a smooth surface can be obtained.

[0021] The polyglycerol fatty acid ester as component (D) is characterized in that the average degree of polymerization of polyglycerol is 2 to 20, and the constituent fatty acids are at least one or more selected from the group consisting of monocarboxylic acids and their derivatives, and at least one or more selected from the group consisting of polycarboxylic acids and their derivatives.

[0022] (D) The polyglycerol constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is a polyglycerol having an average degree of polymerization calculated from the hydroxyl value of 2 to 20, preferably 4 to 20.

[0023] (D) The monocarboxylic acids constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester are not particularly limited. For example, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, isooctylic acid (such as 2-ethylhexanoic acid), isononanoic acid (such as 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid), isopalmitic acid, isostearic acid (such as 2-heptylundecanoic acid, a multi-methyl branched type manufactured by Emery), cerotic acid, montanic acid, melissic acid, etc. can be mentioned, and it is preferably a straight-chain and saturated monocarboxylic acid.

[0024] (D) The polycarboxylic acids constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester are not particularly limited. For example, succinic acid, citric acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, eicosandioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,10-decamethylenedioic acid, 1,12-dodecamethylenedioic acid, 1,15-pentadecamethylenedioic acid, 1,28-octacosamethylenedioic acid, 1,7-ethyloctadecanedioic acid, etc. can be mentioned, and it is preferably a saturated dicarboxylic acid.

[0025] The above monocarboxylic acids and polycarboxylic acids may be derivatives. Examples of the derivatives include acid anhydrides and acid halides thereof.

[0026] (D) The polyglycerol fatty acid ester is preferably a mixture of a monocarboxylic acid and a polycarboxylic acid in that it exhibits excellent usability.

[0027] (D) The esterification rate in all constituent fatty acids constituting the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is preferably 30 to 70%, more preferably 40 to 60%. If the esterification rate in all constituent fatty acids is 30 to 70%, it can provide a better usability when formulated in an oily solid cosmetic.

[0028] (D) When a dicarboxylic acid such as eicosanedioic acid is used as the polycarboxylic acid constituting the polyglycerin fatty acid ester, the esterification rate of the dicarboxylic acid is not particularly limited, but it is preferably 2 to 8%, and more preferably 3 to 7%. If the esterification rate of the dicarboxylic acid is in the range of 2 to 8%, the crosslinking reaction of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester can be appropriately controlled, and the desired polyglycerin fatty acid ester can be obtained. In addition, the dispersibility when added to the oil is also good.

[0029] (D) Polyglycerin fatty acid ester is preferably blended in an amount of 1 to 30% relative to the oily solid cosmetic composition, and more preferably in an amount of 2 to 20%. By setting the amount in the range of 1 to 30% relative to the oily solid cosmetic composition, both high temperature stability and good spreadability can be achieved.

[0030] In the oil-based solid cosmetic composition of the present invention, the total amount of component (A) and component (D) in the total components is preferably 5 to 40%. If the combined amount of component (A) and component (D) is 5 to 40%, a cosmetic composition with superior high-temperature stability can be obtained.

[0031] The oily solid cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain, to the extent that it does not impair the effects, oily components, alcohols, water-soluble polymers, humectants, aqueous components such as water, powders, surfactants, beauty ingredients, UV absorbers, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, and the like, as ingredients normally contained in cosmetics.

[0032] The aqueous components are not particularly limited as long as they are water-soluble and commonly used in cosmetics, and include alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, glycols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and polyethylene glycol, glycerols such as glycerin, diglycerin, and polyglycerin, and sugars such as dextrin, glucose, sorbitol, xylitol, trehalose, oligosaccharides, and cellulose. The water-soluble polymers include natural ones such as guar gum, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, gum arabic, sodium alginate, and carrageenan, semi-synthetic ones such as methylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose, synthetic ones such as carboxyvinyl polymer, alkyl-added carboxyvinyl polymer, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and sodium polyacrylate, as well as proteins, mucopolysaccharides, collagen, elastin, and keratin, and one or more of these can be used.

[0033] The powders are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics, for example, titanium dioxide, black titanium dioxide, ultramarine, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, anhydrous silicic acid, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, carbon black, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, talc, kaolin, silicon carbide, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, and other inorganic powders, as well as nylon, polymethyl methacrylate, alkyl polyacrylate, organopolysiloxane elastomer, polymethylsesquioxane, cross-linked silicone / network silicone block copolymer, poly Examples include organic powders such as ethylene, acrylonitrile-methacrylic acid copolymer, vinylidene chloride-methacrylic acid copolymer, polyethylene, urethane, wool, silk, crystalline cellulose, and N-acyllysine; pigment powders such as lake pigments including organic tar-based pigments and organic dyes; composite powders such as fine-particle titanium dioxide-coated titanium mica, fine-particle zinc oxide-coated titanium mica, barium sulfate-coated titanium mica, titanium dioxide-containing anhydrous silicic acid, zinc oxide-containing anhydrous silicic acid, titanium dioxide-coated glass powder, titanium dioxide-coated synthetic fluorphlogopite, titanium mica, iron oxide-coated titanium mica, Prussian blue-coated titanium mica, and carmine-coated titanium mica; and laminated film powders such as polyethylene terephthalate-aluminum-epoxy laminated powder and polyethylene terephthalate-polymethyl methacrylate laminated powder. Furthermore, these powders may be surface-treated with one or more of the following: fluorine-based compounds, silicone-based compounds, metal soaps, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, collagen, amino acids, hydrocarbons, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, esters, waxes, waxes, and surfactants.

[0034] The surfactant is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, and examples include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. For example, glycerin fatty acid esters and their alkylene glycol adducts, polyglycerin fatty acid esters and their alkylene glycol adducts, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, lecithin, etc., and one or more of these can be used.

[0035] Examples of antioxidants include α-tocopherol, ascorbic acid, and dibutylhydroxytoluene; examples of cosmetic ingredients include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, and herbal medicines; examples of preservatives include parahydroxybenzoic acid esters, phenoxyethanol, and pentanediol; and examples of UV absorbers include benzophenone-based, PABA-based, cinnamic acid-based, salicylic acid-based, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxybenzoylmethane, triazine-based, and oxybenzone. One or more of these can be used.

[0036] The oil-based solid cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used in a variety of applications, whether in paste or solid form, such as makeup products like lipstick, lip liner, eyeliner, eyeshadow, blush, foundation, concealer, and pressed powder; skincare products like balms and cleansing balms; and haircare products like hair treatments.

[0037] The method for preparing the oil-based solid cosmetic composition of the present invention is not particularly limited. The present invention will be described more specifically below with reference to examples and comparative examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples. [Examples]

[0038] <(D) Example of synthesis of polyglycerol fatty acid esters 1> 131.9 g of polyglycerin with an average degree of polymerization of 10, 355.0 g of behenic acid, and 35.7 g of eicosanedioic acid were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.25 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 250°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere, yielding 500 g of reaction product with an esterification rate of 55% of the total constituent fatty acids (50% esterification rate of monocarboxylic acid, 5% esterification rate of polycarboxylic acid).

[0039] <(D) Example of synthesis of polyglycerol fatty acid esters 2> 138.6 g of polyglycerin with an average degree of polymerization of 20, 346.6 g of behenic acid, and 34.9 g of eicosanedioic acid were placed in a reaction vessel, 0.25 g of sodium hydroxide was added, and the reaction was carried out at 250°C for 3 hours under a nitrogen atmosphere, yielding 500 g of reaction product with an esterification rate of 55% of the total constituent fatty acids (50% esterification rate of monocarboxylic acid, 5% esterification rate of polycarboxylic acid).

[0040] <Examples 1-8, Comparative Examples 1-4> Oily solid cosmetic compositions with the compositions shown in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared by the following manufacturing method.

[0041] (Manufacturing method) The raw materials were heated to 80°C, dissolved and mixed, then 10g was placed in a 20mL plastic jar container and cooled to room temperature to produce an oil-based solid cosmetic.

[0042] (high temperature stability) The resulting oil-based solid cosmetic was stored in a constant temperature bath at 50°C for one week, and then visually evaluated according to the following criteria. (standard) ○: It is a solid and no changes are observed on its surface. △: Although solid, a slight oily film is visible on the surface. ×: Although solid, liquid oil seeps out onto more than half of the surface, or it is not solid.

[0043] (exterior) The obtained oil-based solid cosmetic was stored in a constant temperature bath at 5°C for one week, and then visually evaluated for its "appearance at the time of molding" according to the following criteria. (standard) ○: The surface is smooth and glossy. △: Slight roughness is visible on the surface. ×: The surface is rough and lacks shine.

[0044] (Good spreadability) The obtained oil-based solid cosmetic composition was stored in a constant temperature bath at 25°C for 12 weeks, and then subjected to sensory evaluation by 20 panelists. 1 g of the composition was applied to the forearm, and the spreadability when spread with the index finger was assessed on a scale of 5 points. The average score was calculated and evaluated according to the following criteria. (standard) ◎: 4.0 points or higher (Excellent) ○: 3.0 points or higher, less than 4.0 points (good) △: 2.0 points or higher, but less than 3.0 points (slightly poor) ×: 2.0 points or lower (bad)

[0045] [Table 1]

[0046] [Table 2] *1: S Face VL-211 (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) *2: S-Face IS-204P (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) *3: S Face IS-1009P (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.)

[0047] Examples 1 to 8, which are oil-based solid cosmetic compositions of the present invention containing components (A) to (D), were superior in terms of high-temperature stability, spreadability, and appearance compared to Comparative Example 1, which did not contain components (C) and (D); Comparative Example 2, which did not contain component (D); Comparative Example 3, which used an oil thickener other than component (D); and Comparative Example 4, which used an ester other than component (C).

Claims

[Claim 1] An oil-based solid cosmetic containing the following ingredients (A) to (D). (A) Solid oils and / or semi-solid oils (B) Oily component that is liquid at 25°C (C) Polyglycerol fatty acid ester having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 20, and comprising at least one fatty acid selected from the group consisting of unsaturated fatty acids and branched fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with an esterification rate of 30 to 100%. (D) Polyglycerol fatty acid esters having an average degree of polymerization of polyglycerol of 4 to 20, and comprising at least one selected from the group consisting of linear and saturated monocarboxylic acids and at least one selected from the group consisting of polycarboxylic acids, with an esterification rate of 30 to 70% of all constituent fatty acids.

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