False-twist textured yarn, and clothes, woven knitted product, twist yarn, and composite false-twist textured yarn including same

Abstract

A false-twist textured yarn according to the present invention comprises a polyester thermoplastic resin A and a polyester thermoplastic resin B and satisfies the following requirements in order to provide a false-twist textured yarn and a composite false-twist textured yarn, a twist yarn, a woven knitted product, and clothes that include the same, said false-twist textured yarn providing feelings such as dryness and resilience, having a high grainy feel with suppressed glare, and realizing functionalities such as high sensitiveness and stretchability with a worsted-yarn like feature having a natural appearance. (1) The difference (MA-MB) between the weight average molecular weight MA of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the weight average molecular weight MB of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is 2,000-15,000. (2) The polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are bonded in an eccentric manner. (3) The apparent thick-thin ratio (Dthick / Dthin) of the false-twist textured yarn is 1.05-3.00. (4) A slit in the fiber axis direction is provided in the surface of the false-twist textured yarn, and a crack in the direction substantially orthogonal to the fiber axis direction is provided in said surface.

Description

False twist textured yarn and composite false twist textured yarn, twisted yarn, woven and knitted fabrics and clothing containing the same

[0001] The present invention relates to a false twist textured yarn, and a composite false twist textured yarn, twisted yarn, woven or knitted fabric, and clothing containing the same.

[0002] Among wool materials, there has traditionally been a demand for worsted-wool fabrics that combine the softness, dry feel, and resilience of the texture, as well as the natural appearance of worsted-wool fabrics, with functionality such as stretchability.

[0003] To date, proposed wool-like fabrics include fibers having thick and thin variations in the fiber axis direction of the single fibers constituting a multifilament formed by bonding two types of polyester polymers with different melt viscosities, and woven and knitted fabrics using such fibers, as disclosed in Patent Document 1. Patent Document 2 also proposes a polyester composite false-twist yarn made of a polyester yarn having latent crimping properties and another polyester yarn.

[0004] JP 2004-124271 A JP 2017-214698 A

[0005] One possible means for obtaining a worsted-like natural appearance and stretchability is to draw a composite fiber having a crimp structure similar to that of wool to impart a thick and thin pattern to the composite fiber. However, while the technique disclosed in Patent Document 1 provides crimp and a thick and thin pattern, the cross-sectional shape of the single fibers constituting the multifilament is uniform, and therefore, there is a problem in that a natural appearance and a dry feel cannot be obtained.

[0006] Furthermore, the technology disclosed in Patent Document 2 involves false twisting, but the false twisting process results in a close-packed structure of the multifilaments, which makes the surface of the single yarn smooth and prevents a natural appearance. In other words, it has not been possible to simultaneously satisfy the texture, such as dry feel and resilience, the high sensitivity of worsted yarns, such as a natural appearance, and functionality, such as stretchability.

[0007] The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and its object is to provide a false twist textured yarn that exhibits functionality such as a dry feel and resilience, a high feel of worsted wool with a natural appearance that has a high degree of texture and stretchability while having a high degree of heathered texture and suppressed glare, and a composite false twist textured yarn, twisted yarn, woven or knitted fabric, and clothing that contain the same.

[0008] The present invention has the following configuration.

[0009] [1] A false twist textured yarn containing a polyester thermoplastic resin A and a polyester thermoplastic resin B, and satisfying the following requirements: (1) The weight average molecular weight M Ａ and the weight average molecular weight M of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B Ｂ The difference between Ａ -M Ｂ (2) The polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are eccentrically bonded. (3) The apparent thickness ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ (4) The surface of the false twisted yarn has slits in the fiber axis direction and cracks in the direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis direction.

[0010] [2] The false twist textured yarn according to [1], having a single yarn fineness of 3.0 dtex or more.

[0011] [3] The false twisted yarn according to [1] or [2], having a stretch recovery rate (CR) of 25.0% or more.

[0012] [4] A composite false twist textured yarn comprising the false twist textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [3] and at least one other yarn.

[0013] [5] The composite false twist textured yarn according to [4], wherein the other yarn is an apparently crimped yarn.

[0014] [6] A twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 1200 to 6000, comprising the false twist textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [3] and the composite false twist textured yarn according to [4] or [5].

[0015] [7] A woven or knitted fabric comprising at least in part either the false twist textured yarn according to any one of [1] to [3], the composite false twist textured yarn according to [4] or [5], or the twisted yarn according to [6].

[0016] [8] Clothing comprising at least a part of the woven or knitted fabric according to [7].

[0017] According to the present invention, a false twisted yarn can be obtained that has a texture such as a dry feel and resilience, a natural appearance with a high degree of heathered texture and reduced glare, a high degree of worsted texture, and functionality such as stretchability. In particular, composite false twisted yarns, twisted yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, and clothing made using the false twisted yarn of the present invention can be suitably used for outerwear items worn by women and men, such as jackets, suits, and bottoms.

[0018] Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing one example of the state of existence of polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B in a false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing another example of the state of existence of polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B in a false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Fig. 3 is a perspective view illustrating one embodiment of the surface of a false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Fig. 4 is a schematic diagram of a false twist textured device used in producing a false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of a final distribution plate according to Example 1 of a false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of a final distribution plate according to Comparative Example 8 of a false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

[0019] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention contains a polyester thermoplastic resin A and a polyester thermoplastic resin B, and satisfies the following requirements: (1) The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A is Ａ and the weight average molecular weight M of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin B Ｂ The difference between Ａ -M Ｂ (2) The polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are eccentrically bonded. (3) The apparent thickness ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ(4) The surface of the false twisted yarn has slits in the fiber axis direction and cracks in the direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis direction.

[0020] The present invention will be described in detail below, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the following description as long as it does not deviate from the gist of the invention.

[0021] [Polyester-based thermoplastic resin A, polyester-based thermoplastic resin B] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention is obtained by false twisting a conjugate fiber containing polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and polyester-based thermoplastic resin B. False twisting results in random crimping of each single yarn, thereby providing a dry feel, stretchability, and resilience.

[0022] Therefore, the false twist textured yarn of the present invention contains a polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and a polyester-based thermoplastic resin B.

[0023] Specific examples of polyester resins used in the false twisted yarn of the present invention include polyethylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating unit is trimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating unit is butylene terephthalate. More preferably, the main repeating unit of both polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B is ethylene terephthalate. Here, "the main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate" means that the proportion of ethylene terephthalate-derived structures contained in the repeating units is 60 mol % or more. The same applies hereinafter.

[0024] The above polyethylene terephthalate resins, polytrimethylene terephthalate resins, and polybutylene terephthalate resins may optionally contain a small amount of copolymerization component (usually less than 30 mol% (amount relative to 100 mol% of the total amount of acid component and diol component)). It is preferable for the copolymerization component of polyester thermoplastic resin A to be 8 mol% or less, as this maintains strength even after alkali reduction, making it easier to achieve softness. Furthermore, by keeping the copolymerization component at 8 mol% or less, dimensional stability is improved, for example, by maintaining molecular orientation in the false twist textured yarn even after dyeing. Preferably, both polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B contain 5 mol% or less of copolymerization component, and more preferably, polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B are polyethylene terephthalate resins that do not contain copolymerization component. By using polyethylene terephthalate that does not contain copolymerization components, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the false twist textured yarn can be easily reduced, making it easier for crimp to occur in woven or knitted fabrics, making it easier to obtain stretchability and resilience, and also making fiber-to-fiber recycling easier.

[0025] In the present invention, the boiling water shrinkage of the false twist textured yarn after false twisting but before crack formation (hereinafter referred to as false twist textured yarn before crack formation) is preferably 10.0% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage is 10.0% or less, the fibers are not restrained in the woven or knitted fabric, and the stretchability is further improved.

[0026] The polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B in the present invention may contain, as necessary, one or more of a micropore-forming agent, a cationic dyeable agent, a coloration inhibitor, a heat stabilizer, a flame retardant, a fluorescent brightening agent, a matting agent, a colorant, an antistatic agent, a moisture absorbent, an antibacterial agent, inorganic fine particles, etc., within the scope of the object of the present invention.

[0027] The false twisted yarn of the present invention is a polyester thermoplastic resin A having a weight average molecular weight M Ａ and the weight average molecular weight M of polyester thermoplastic resin B Ｂ The difference between Ａ -M Ｂ(hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "difference in weight-average molecular weight") is 2,000 to 15,000. If the difference in weight-average molecular weight is less than 2,000, the stretchability of the false twist textured yarn will be low and the glare suppression effect will be insufficient. The difference in weight-average molecular weight is preferably 5,000 or more. On the other hand, if the difference in weight-average molecular weight is more than 15,000, the strength of the raw yarn will decrease and spinning will become unstable. The difference in weight-average molecular weight is preferably 13,000 or less.

[0028] The weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A Ａ The range of the value of is preferably 20,000 to 28,000, and the weight average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B is Ｂ The range of the values ​​of is preferably 12,000 to 20,000. When each of these ranges is satisfied, the functionality and durability of the false twist textured yarn are improved, and the process stability when spinning the composite fiber that is the base of the false twist textured yarn is also improved.

[0029] The weight average molecular weight in the present invention is measured by the method described in the examples.

[0030] [False Twist Textured Yarn] In the false twist textured yarn of the present invention, polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B are eccentrically bonded. This results in a coiled structure due to the difference in shrinkage between polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B, improving the stretchability of the resulting fabric. Here, "eccentrically bonded" refers to a state in which polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B are not substantially separated but are bonded together in a cross section of the false twist textured yarn that is approximately perpendicular to the fiber axis, and their centers of gravity are offset. Examples of eccentrically bonded structures include a side-by-side structure, an eccentric core-sheath structure, and a structure in which a portion of polyester thermoplastic resin A (1) is exposed from polyester thermoplastic resin B (2), as shown in the cross-sectional shape of the false twist textured yarn in Figure 1.

[0031] In this case, when the false twist textured yarn is a side-by-side type, it is necessary to form a slit parallel to the fiber axis direction in the polyester thermoplastic resin B at the composite fiber stage before the false twist texture is applied.

[0032] When the false twist textured yarn is of the eccentric core-sheath type, as shown in FIG. 2, the cross-sectional structure is such that polyester thermoplastic resin A (1) is covered with polyester thermoplastic resin B (2).

[0033] 1 can be obtained, for example, by obtaining an eccentric sheath-core conjugate fiber and then subjecting it to alkali reduction to expose a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A. In this case, by forming the eccentric sheath-core conjugate fiber using polyester thermoplastic resins with the above-mentioned weight-average molecular weight difference, it is possible to stably form fine irregularities at the bonding interface between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B, and by exposing a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, these irregularities become exposed, forming slits, as described below.

[0034] In addition, when the composite fiber is an eccentric core-sheath type, the minimum value t of the thickness t(3) of the polyester thermoplastic resin B(2) covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A(1) is ｍｉｎ and the ratio of the fiber diameter D of the composite fiber (t ｍｉｎ / D) is preferably 0.01 to 0.10. ｍｉｎ When the ratio (t / D) is 0.01 or more, the generation of fluff is suppressed, improving the quality of the fabric and improving the slit formability. ｍｉｎ / D) is preferably 0.02 or more. ｍｉｎ When the ratio (t / D) is 0.10 or less, the stretchability is further improved due to sufficient crimp development power. ｍｉｎ / D) is preferably 0.08 or less.

[0035] In addition, when the composite fiber is an eccentric core-sheath type, the thickness t in the cross section is 1.00t ｍｉｎ ≦t≦1.05t ｍｉｎ The length C of the overlapping portion of the region satisfying the above and the periphery of the composite fiber ｔ is the circumference of the entire composite fiber C, ｔ By doing so, it is preferable that the area (S Ａ ) and the area of ​​polyester-based thermoplastic resin B (S ＢCompared to conventional eccentric core-sheath composite fibers with the same ratio of C, the centers of gravity of the regions where each resin exists are farther apart, allowing the resulting crimped fibers to form finer spirals and exhibit better crimping. ｔ It is more preferable that the C is ≧0.40C. ｔ <C, but C ｔ ≦0.70C is preferred.

[0036] Furthermore, the false twisted yarn of the present invention has an apparent thickness ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ In the present invention, the apparent thick-thin ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ ) is the fiber diameter (D) of the part where the width in the direction perpendicular to the fiber axis direction of the false twist textured yarn bundle at a load of 0.11 cN / dtex is relatively thicker than the average value. ｔｈｉｃｋ ) and the fiber diameter of the portion thinner than the average (D ｔｈｉｎ The apparent thickness ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ If the value of (D) is less than 1.05, a mottled appearance cannot be obtained when the fabric is made into a woven or knitted fabric. ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ ) is preferably 1.25 or more, more preferably 1.40 or more. ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ If the value of (D) exceeds 3.00, the appearance will deviate from the natural appearance and will not be desirable. ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ ) is preferably 2.00 or less.

[0037] Specific methods for measuring the thickness t, fiber diameter D, thickness ratio, perimeter C, etc. are as described in the Examples.

[0038] Furthermore, the false twist textured yarn of the present invention has slits on the surface of the single fibers in the direction of the single fiber axis and cracks in a direction approximately perpendicular to the single fiber axis. Having irregularities in the direction of the single fiber axis and in a direction approximately perpendicular to the single fiber axis allows light to be scattered from all angles, resulting in a natural appearance with reduced glare. In the present invention, the cracks refer to irregularities in a direction approximately perpendicular to the single fiber axis of the false twist textured yarn, and the crack depth is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 μm. In the present invention, the slits refer to irregularities formed in the direction of the single fiber axis of the false twist textured yarn, and the slit depth is preferably 0.1 to 1.5 μm. When the crack depth is 0.5 μm or more, or when the slit depth is 0.1 μm or more, the glare suppression effect is further improved. Furthermore, when the slit depth is 5.0 μm or less, or when the slit depth is 1.5 μm or less, the abrasion resistance is improved.

[0039] For the same reason, the width of the crack is preferably 1.0 to 30.0 μm, the width of the slit is preferably 0.1 to 10.0 μm, and the length of the slit is preferably 100 μm or more.

[0040] Here, the depth of the crack or slit is measured at its deepest point. Furthermore, the direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis direction of the false twisted yarn refers to the direction along the circumference of the single fiber of the false twisted yarn 4, as illustrated schematically in Figure 3, and is a direction within ±80° of the fiber axis direction. Figure 3 is a perspective view illustrating one embodiment of the surface of the false twisted yarn of the present invention, in which the single fiber surface of the false twisted yarn 4 has a slit 6 in the single fiber axis direction and a crack 5 in a direction substantially perpendicular to the single fiber axis direction. The length of such a crack is not particularly limited. The area (S Ａ ) and the area of ​​polyester-based thermoplastic resin B (S Ｂ ) and the ratio S Ａ :S ＢAlthough the ratio varies depending on the yarn size, when it is roughly around 50:50 (for example, about 40-60:60-40), cracks tend to form in an area roughly half the circumferential length of the single filament of the false twist textured yarn. A ratio of roughly half the circumferential length of the single filament of the false twist textured yarn is preferable because it provides a good balance with slit formation and further suppresses glare when the yarn is made into a woven or knitted fabric. Here, the above "approximately half the circumferential length" may refer to a single crack forming a crack over roughly half the circumferential length of the single filament, or to two or more cracks formed in a region roughly half the circumferential length of the single filament. Furthermore, it is not necessary for the crack to be strictly half the circumferential length; roughly half the circumference is sufficient.

[0041] Furthermore, the frequency at which cracks are formed is preferably such that there are 10 or fewer cracks dispersed over substantially the entire circumferential area of ​​the region where no slits are formed, and it is more preferable that the cracks are formed at a frequency such that such a dispersed pattern exists within a range of 1 cm in the direction of the fiber axis.

[0042] The fiber axis direction of the false twist yarn refers to the longitudinal direction of the false twist yarn 4, as illustrated schematically in Figure 3. The circumferential length of the false twist yarn in which such slits are formed is not particularly limited, but a length of about half the circumferential length of the single fibers of the false twist yarn is preferred, as this provides a good balance with crack formation and further suppresses glare when the false twist yarn is made into a woven or knitted fabric. It is also particularly preferred that both cracks and slits are formed in the single fibers that make up the false twist yarn. In this case, a preferred embodiment has a region in which cracks are formed over about half the circumference and a region in which slits are formed over about half the circumference, as shown in Figure 3.

[0043] In the present invention, the depth and length of each crack and slit are measured using an electron microscope, and the average value is calculated by measuring 10 cracks or slits in one false twist textured yarn. The specific measurement method is as described in the Examples.

[0044] One method for forming cracks on the surface of false twisted yarn is to use alkali to reduce the weight of the false twisted yarn after pin-drawing it within a range that does not exceed the natural draw ratio of the composite fiber. By using the above draw ratio, differences in the orientation of the molecules that make up the composite fiber occur along the fiber length, and the unoriented portions are preferentially eluted by alkali, resulting in different weight reduction rates along the fiber length, and forming irregularities, i.e., cracks, in a direction approximately perpendicular to the fiber axis.

[0045] Methods for forming slits on the surface of false twisted yarn include changing the shape of the discharge hole from the usual circular shape when obtaining composite fibers to a shape of a discharge hole with a multi-lobal cross section with eight or more protrusions, thereby creating unevenness in the fiber axis direction.

[0046] Slits can also be formed by obtaining false twist textured yarn from composite fibers with an eccentric sheath-core structure and then subjecting the yarn to alkaline reduction, etc. Here, a method for forming slits using composite fibers with an eccentric sheath-core structure will be described in detail. By spinning polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B, which have the above-mentioned molecular weight difference, using a distributor plate (described below), unevenness is formed at the bonding interface of the eccentric sheath-core structure due to the difference in viscosity between the thermoplastic resins. Furthermore, during alkaline reduction of a woven or knitted fabric using false twist textured yarn, polyester thermoplastic resin B is preferentially reduced in weight, exposing polyester thermoplastic resin A and thereby exposing the unevenness that was previously at the bonding interface, forming unevenness (slits) in the fiber axis direction.

[0047] The slits are preferably formed from the composite fibers having the above-mentioned eccentric core-sheath structure, since they can be formed more stably and can be deep slits.

[0048] By simultaneously satisfying the above-mentioned requirements (1) to (4), the present invention can simultaneously solve the problems of conventional false twisted yarns, namely, the texture such as dry feel and resilience, and the functionality such as high sensitivity and stretchability of a worsted texture with a natural appearance.

[0049] Furthermore, the cross-sectional shape of the false twist textured yarn is not particularly limited, and cross-sectional shapes such as circular, elliptical, triangular, etc. can be adopted, but a circular shape is more preferable because it allows for stable spinning of the composite fiber to obtain the false twist textured yarn.

[0050] In the present invention, the area (S Ａ ) and the area of ​​polyester-based thermoplastic resin B (S Ｂ ) and the ratio S Ａ :S Ｂ However, if the ratio is preferably 70:30 to 30:70, more preferably 60:40 to 40:60, the physical properties will be improved. Ａ ≧S Ｂ It is preferable that:

[0051] The single yarn fineness of the false twist textured yarn in the present invention is preferably 3.0 dtex or more. The upper limit is preferably 5.0 dtex or less. By setting the fineness within this range, the woven or knitted fabric has a high dry feel, and a texture closer to that of worsted yarn can be obtained. In the present invention, the single yarn fineness is a value calculated by dividing the total fineness (dtex) by the number of filaments.

[0052] Furthermore, the false twist textured yarn of the present invention preferably has a crimp recovery rate (CR, Crimp Rigidity) measured from the decomposed yarn of a woven or knitted fabric of 25.0% or more. When the CR is 25.0% or more, more crimp is expressed in the woven or knitted fabric, resulting in better stretchability. The CR is more preferably 30.0% or more. Furthermore, the CR is preferably 50.0% or less. A CR of 50.0% or more prevents the woven or knitted fabric from becoming too swollen, making it easier to obtain appropriate resilience. The CR can be measured by the method described in the Examples, including when a composite false twist textured yarn described below is used. Furthermore, examples of methods for achieving a CR within the above range include increasing the draw ratio during false twist texture to increase the orientation difference between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B.

[0053] [Composite false twist textured yarn] The composite false twist textured yarn of the present invention comprises the false twist textured yarn of the present invention and at least one other yarn, thereby providing a more improved mottled feel when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

[0054] The other yarns are not particularly limited as long as they are different from the false twist textured yarn of the present invention. However, polyester resins are preferred because of their good mechanical properties and excellent dimensional stability against changes in humidity and temperature. Specific examples of polyester resins include polyethylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating unit is trimethylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate resins whose main repeating unit is butylene terephthalate. The polyethylene terephthalate resins or polybutylene terephthalate resins may optionally contain a small amount of copolymer component (usually less than 30 mol % (based on 100 mol % of the total of the acid component and the diol component)). From the perspectives of soft texture and fiber-to-fiber recycling, it is more preferred that all of the yarns constituting the composite false twist textured yarn be polyethylene terephthalate resins that do not contain covalent components.

[0055] The other yarns preferably have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10.0% or less. By having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10.0% or less, the false twist textured yarn and other yarns are less likely to be restrained in the woven or knitted fabric, and stretchability is further improved.

[0056] Furthermore, the other yarn is preferably a visibly crimped yarn. Here, "visibly crimped yarn" refers to a yarn with a stretch recovery rate of 5.0% or more, such as a yarn in which two polymers with different shrinkage properties are combined in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath configuration, or a yarn to which mechanical crimping has been imparted by false twisting. In this case, the CR of the other yarn is preferably 10.0 to 20.0% higher than the CR of the false twisted yarn. By achieving a CR within this range, false twisted yarns and crimps with different coil diameters are mixed in the composite false twisted yarn, thereby achieving a dry feel closer to worsted yarn without impairing stretchability. The other yarn used as the raw yarn before combining is preferably a latently crimped yarn. After combining, the latently crimped yarn undergoes processes such as dyeing to become the visibly crimped yarn that constitutes the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

[0057] [Twisted Yarn] The twisted yarn of the present invention comprises either the false twist textured yarn or the composite false twist textured yarn, and has a twist coefficient of 1200 to 6000. By using the false twist textured yarn or the composite false twist textured yarn as the twisted yarn and setting the twist coefficient within the above range, the processability in the weaving process is improved while maintaining stretchability. The twist coefficient is preferably 1500 to 4500. Here, the twist coefficient can be calculated using the following formula.

[0058] Twist coefficient (K) = twist number (T / m) × √(fineness (dtex) × 0.9).

[0059] The twisting direction is preferably the same as the twisting direction of the false twist. When the twisting direction and the false twisting direction are the same, the resilience is further improved.

[0060] [Woven / knitted fabrics] The woven / knitted fabrics of the present invention at least partially contain the false twist textured yarn, composite false twist textured yarn, or twisted yarn thereof of the present invention. The proportion of these used is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 40% by mass or more, based on the mass of the woven / knitted fabric. In another preferred embodiment, all of the fibers constituting the woven / knitted fabric are made of the false twist textured yarn, composite false twist textured yarn, or twisted yarn of the present invention.

[0061] The fabric structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric. The weave is selected from plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and variations thereof depending on the texture and design. Furthermore, a multiple weave such as a double weave may be used. The knit weave may be selected depending on the desired texture and design. Examples of weft knitting include plain weave, rib knit, purl knit, tuck knit, float knit, lace knit, and variations thereof. Examples of warp knitting include single denbigh knit, single vandyke knit, single cord knit, Berlin knit, double denbigh knit, atlas knit, cord knit, half tricot knit, satin knit, sharkskin knit, and variations thereof. Among these, relatively simple weave / knit structures such as plain weave or variations thereof, twill weave or variations thereof, and satin weave are more preferred to achieve a delicate worsted texture and a deep, natural appearance.

[0062] [Clothing] The clothing of the present invention comprises at least a portion of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention. This allows the clothing to have the texture of the false twist textured yarn, composite false twist textured yarn or twisted yarn, or woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, such as a dry feel and resilience, and the functionality of a worsted-like texture with a natural appearance and high sensitivity and stretchability. The clothing of the present invention includes items in the field of outerwear worn as women's and men's clothing, sportswear, and outdoor clothing, particularly jackets, suits, bottoms, and parts thereof, such as those including front and back panels, collars, sleeves, chest pockets, and side pockets, as well as innerwear, socks, hats, etc.

[0063] [Method for producing false twist textured yarn and woven / knitted fabrics] Next, an example of a preferred method for producing the false twist textured yarn and woven / knitted fabrics of the present invention will be described.

[0064] The false twist textured yarn of the present invention can be produced by winding a conjugate fiber obtained by extruding a thermoplastic resin as an undrawn or semi-drawn yarn, false twisting the conjugate fiber, and then subjecting it to alkali reduction. In particular, it is preferable to use a conjugate fiber obtained by winding the conjugate fiber as a semi-drawn yarn and then drawing it in the false twist texture, because the difference in orientation between the polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B results in excellent stretchability when made into a woven or knitted fabric and dyed, and the high orientation of the polyester resin A results in excellent resistance to embrittlement due to alkali reduction.

[0065] [Spinning step] In the method for producing false twist textured yarn of the present invention, first, polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B are each melted, extruded from a spinneret, and wound up as an undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn at a spinning speed of preferably 1400 m / min to 3800 m / min. In the present invention, it is preferable to wind up as a semi-drawn yarn at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min to 3800 m / min.

[0066] In the present invention, it is preferable to convert a semi-drawn yarn into a false twisted yarn of the present invention, as this results in excellent abrasion resistance after alkali reduction. Since the semi-drawn yarn is more crystallized than the undrawn yarn, local fiber breakage due to alkali reduction can be suppressed.

[0067] The spinning temperature was determined based on the melting points (T ｍＡ , T ｍＢ ) and preferably +20°C to +50°C. ｍＡ , T ｍＢ ) +20°C or higher, it is possible to prevent the molten polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the molten polyester-based thermoplastic resin B from solidifying and clogging the inside of the spinning machine piping. ｍＡ , T ｍＢ ) +50°C or less, thermal degradation of the molten polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and the molten polyester-based thermoplastic resin B can be suppressed.

[0068] The spinneret used in the method for producing false twisted yarn of the present invention may have any known internal structure, provided that it is capable of spinning with high quality and stable operation.

[0069] Here, when the cross section of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention is of the side-by-side type, by making the shape of the nozzle uneven, slits approximately parallel to the fiber axis direction are obtained on the surface of the polyester thermoplastic resin A.

[0070] Furthermore, by using an eccentric core-sheath type cross section for the composite fiber, it is possible to suppress the bending of the discharge line caused by the difference in flow speed between the two types of thermoplastic resins discharged from the spinneret, which is an issue when producing composite fibers before false twisting.

[0071] In order to make the composite fiber have an eccentric core-sheath type cross section, the minimum value t of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A as described above is ｍｉｎ The thickness t of the cross section of the composite fiber is 1.00t ｍｉｎ ≦t≦1.05t ｍｉｎ The length C of the overlapping portion of the region satisfying the above and the periphery of the composite fiber ｔ It is preferable to precisely control the temperature and the amount of the fiber, and a spinning method using a distribution plate, as exemplified in JP-A Nos. 2011-174215, 2011-208313, and 2012-136804, is preferably used. By using such a distribution plate, ｍｉｎ The obtained eccentric sheath / core composite fiber may be used as it is to form an eccentric sheath / core false twist textured yarn, or may be subjected to alkali reduction to form a false twist textured yarn having a cross-sectional structure as shown in Figure 1.

[0072] When false twisting a yarn having a cross-sectional structure as shown in Fig. 1, if the difference in weight-average molecular weight between polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B is within the range of the present invention, unevenness parallel to the fiber axis direction will be formed at the composite interface of the composite fiber depending on the viscosity difference. Therefore, by subjecting an eccentric core-sheath composite fiber to an alkali treatment after false twisting, part of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering polyester thermoplastic resin A will be removed, exposing part of the polyester thermoplastic resin A, and slits parallel to the fiber axis direction as shown in Fig. 3 will be stably obtained.

[0073] In addition, the composite fiber ｍｉｎ If t is too small, the effect of suppressing the bending of the discharge line cannot be sufficiently obtained, and as a result, fluffing may occur in the false twisted yarn, the processability may be reduced, or the strength may be reduced. ｍｉｎ In this method, the cross-sectional form of the single yarn can be controlled by the arrangement of the distribution holes in the final distribution plate, which is the most downstream of the multiple distribution plates.

[0074] [False Twisting Process] Next, the yarn produced through the spinning process described above is pin-drawn using a false twisting device such as the one shown in FIG. 4 at a draw ratio not exceeding the natural draw ratio of the yarn, and then false twisted while further heater-drawing to form a false twisted yarn. This process allows the desired false twisted yarn to be obtained. FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the false twisting device used to produce the false twisted yarn of the present invention. Specifically, the composite fiber 7 is heated and drawn by a hot pin 9 between a first feed roller 8 and a second feed roller 10, and then false twisted by a heater 11 and a twister 12 between the second feed roller 10 and a third feed roller 13. If another yarn 16 is to be mixed, the composite fiber 7 is supplied from a fourth feed roller 17 to the heater 11 and false twisted to form a false twisted yarn or composite false twisted yarn 14, which is then wound on a winding section 15.

[0075] For example, a semi-drawn yarn obtained by conjugate spinning at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min to 3800 m / min is pin-drawn at a yarn speed of 100 to 800 m / min at a pin draw ratio described below and a hot pin temperature of 70 to 120°C, and then false-twisted at a heater draw ratio described below and a heater temperature of 140 to 200°C (one example of conditions: a semi-drawn yarn obtained by conjugate spinning at a spinning speed of 2600 m / min is pin-drawn at a yarn speed of 400 m / min at a pin draw ratio of 1.4 times and a hot pin temperature of 80°C, and then false-twisted at a heater draw ratio of 1.20 times and a heater temperature of 170°C), thereby obtaining a false-twisted yarn with an apparent thickness ratio of 1.05 to 3.00. Pin drawing is performed in the range of 1.2 times the lower limit of the natural draw ratio to 0.8 times the upper limit, and false twisting is performed so that the total draw ratio, expressed as the pin draw ratio x heater draw ratio, is 1.1 times the upper limit of the natural draw ratio. This allows the desired thickness-thin ratio to be obtained, and cracks and slits can be formed on the surface of the false twisted yarn by alkali treatment. Furthermore, a total draw ratio of 1.3 times or more than the upper limit of the natural draw ratio is preferred because it increases the difference in orientation between the polyester thermoplastic resins that make up the composite fiber, making it easier to achieve stretchability. Furthermore, false twisting at a total draw ratio less than 1.1 times the upper limit of the natural draw ratio results in poor processing stability, and cracks are preferentially generated by alkali treatment, making it difficult to form slits.

[0076] Furthermore, this false twist textured yarn may be combined with other yarns by blending or the like before or after winding to form a composite false twist textured yarn. The blending method is not particularly limited, and general methods such as interlace blending and taslan blending are also acceptable.

[0077] [Process for forming woven or knitted fabrics] The false-twist textured yarn or composite false-twist textured yarn obtained by the above false-twisting process is used to make woven or knitted fabrics. In the case of woven fabrics, they are woven using an air jet loom, water jet loom, rapier loom, projectile loom, shuttle loom, etc. In the case of knitted fabrics, they are knitted using a weft knitting machine such as a flat knitting machine, fully fashioned knitting machine, circular knitting machine, computer jacquard knitting machine, sock knitting machine, or tubular knitting machine, or a warp knitting machine such as a tricot knitting machine, Russell knitting machine, air jet loom, or Milanese knitting machine.

[0078] [Alkali Weight Reduction Process] The woven or knitted fabric obtained in the above-described woven or knitted fabric formation process is then subjected to an alkali weight reduction process to achieve an alkali weight reduction rate of 5% or more, preferably 10 to 25%. As described above, false twist textured yarns pin-drawn within a range not exceeding the natural draw ratio of eccentric composite fibers exhibit orientation differences along the fiber length, and the alkali weight reduction rate differs along the fiber length. Therefore, alkali weight reduction processing results in the formation of irregularities, i.e., cracks, in a direction approximately perpendicular to the fiber axis. In addition, when producing a false twist textured yarn having the structure shown in Figure 1, as described above, slits are formed by removing a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin B from the eccentric core-sheath composite fibers to expose a portion of the polyester thermoplastic resin A. In this case, the slit depth can be easily controlled by controlling the exposed state of the polyester thermoplastic resin A.

[0079] The alkaline reduction step is preferably a batch reduction process (e.g., flow reduction) because it is more likely to provide resilience.

[0080] [Dyeing Process] Furthermore, if necessary, before and / or after, or simultaneously with, the above-mentioned alkali reduction process, conventional scouring, relaxation, intermediate heat setting, dyeing, and finishing heat setting may be performed (in the present invention, these processes may be collectively referred to as the "dyeing process"). To obtain the stretchability and resilience of the present invention, the feed and tension in each process are appropriately controlled. For example, in equipment such as roll-to-roll systems that can control the feed amount in the axial direction of the composite fiber of the present invention, it is desirable to control the overfeed to within 10%, and in batch-type jet dyeing machines, the liquid volume and flow rate to avoid excessive tension in the direction of travel. Dyeing is carried out using a disperse dye or cationic dye in a dyeing solution preferably at 110 to 130°C, although this depends on the dyeability of the thermoplastic resin that constitutes the false twist textured yarn or the other composite yarns.

[0081] The false twisted yarn in the woven or knitted fabric produced using the false twisted yarn false twisted using the composite fiber typically undergoes structural development and crimping due to the thermal history in the dyeing step or alkali reduction step. The alkali reduction step results in slits being formed in the fiber axis direction and cracks being formed in a direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis direction. When a latently crimped yarn is used as another yarn in the composite false twisted yarn, the thermal history in the dyeing step or alkali reduction step causes the latently crimped yarn to also develop a structural development and become a latently crimped yarn.

[0082] Next, the present invention will be specifically described based on examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, in the measurement of each physical property, unless otherwise specified, the measurement was performed according to the above-mentioned method.

[0083] [Measurement Method] (1) Measurement of Weight Average Molecular Weight of Thermoplastic Resin The weight average molecular weight of the polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B used in the composite fiber was measured using a gel permeation chromatography (GPC) tester "TOSO GMHHR-H(S)HT" manufactured by Tosoh Corporation.

[0084] Detector: Differential refractive index detector RI (Waters-2414, sensitivity 128x) Column: Shodex HFIP806M (two columns connected) manufactured by Showa Denko K.K. Solvent: Tetrahydrofuran (25 cm ３ ) Flow rate: 1.0 mL / min Column temperature: 30°C Injection volume: 0.10 mL Standard material: polystyrene.

[0085] (2) Measurement of fiber diameter D, thickness t of polyester thermoplastic resin B covering polyester thermoplastic resin A, and fiber perimeter C. A multifilament made of composite fiber was embedded in an embedding agent such as epoxy resin at 10 consecutive locations at 1 cm intervals along the fiber axis. Images of each sample were taken using a transmission electron microscope (TEM) at a magnification that allowed observation of 10 or more fibers. Metal staining was applied to clarify the contrast at the junction between polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B. Using image analysis software "WinROOF2015" manufactured by Mitani Shoji Co., Ltd., the fiber diameter D, the perimeter C, and the thickness t of polyester thermoplastic resin B were measured for all single yarns in the observed image. The fiber diameter D was the equivalent circular diameter. Ten sets of the obtained fiber diameter D, perimeter C, thickness t, and area ratio Sa of the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A were prepared, and the fiber diameter D was averaged to three significant figures, and the perimeter C and thickness t were averaged to two significant figures, and these were used as the fiber diameter D, perimeter C, thickness t, and area ratio Sa of the present invention. In addition, the thickness t was measured at 360 points every 1° in the fiber circumferential direction, and the smallest one was used as t ｍｉｎ , thickness t is 1.00t ｍｉｎ ≦t≦1.05t ｍｉｎ The length of the overlapping portion of the region satisfying the above and the periphery of the composite fiber is defined as C ｔ The area ratio Sa of the polyester thermoplastic resin A was subtracted from the total area S of the cross section to obtain the area ratio Sb of the polyester thermoplastic resin B.

[0086] (3) Apparent Thickness / Thinness Ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ Measurement of the fiber diameter (D) of the thick part: A false twist textured yarn was extracted from a woven or knitted fabric after the dyeing process (finishing heat setting), and both ends of the false twist textured yarn were fixed under a load of 0.11 cN / dtex. The side of the fixed sample was photographed at 200x magnification using a digital microscope "VHX-2000" manufactured by Keyence Corporation, and the diameter of the fiber bundle was measured at 500 consecutive points at 1.0 mm intervals in the fiber axis direction. ｔｈｉｃｋ ) and the fiber diameter (D ｔｈｉｎThe apparent thickness ratio was determined by rounding off the third decimal place to two decimal places.

[0087] (4) Measurement of the Presence and Depth of Cracks and Slits Random locations were observed using a scanning electron microscope, Hitachi Ltd.'s "S-3400N." The composite fiber was pulled out of the woven or knitted fabric after final heat setting without applying external force, and the presence or absence of cracks and slits was confirmed. If cracks or slits were present, the side surface in the fiber axis direction was observed at 2000x magnification. The deepest depth and length of the cracks and slits were measured, and the average value of 10 cracks and slits measured within one false twist textured yarn was used as the respective depth. Note that a crack refers to a groove in a direction approximately perpendicular to the fiber axis direction, and a slit refers to a groove in a direction approximately parallel to the fiber axis direction.

[0088] In the table, the following was indicated: "crack / slit" when a region with cracks formed around half the circumference of the single fiber and a region with slits formed around half the circumference were observed; "full-circumference crack" when a region with cracks formed around the entire circumference of the single fiber and no slits were observed; and "half-circumference crack" when a region with cracks formed around half the circumference of the single fiber and no slits were observed. In the Examples and Comparative Examples described below, all samples with cracks were found to have a crack width within the range of 1.0 to 30.0 μm. In these samples, cracks were formed at a frequency of 10 or less cracks, dispersed over almost the entire circumference of the region, within a 1 cm range along the fiber axis. In all samples with slits, the slit length was 100 μm or more. When neither cracks nor slits were observed, the sample was marked "none."

[0089] (5) Single Yarn Fineness For each fiber before weaving, the fineness / number of filaments was calculated from the fineness and number of filaments measured by the following methods. Fineness: JIS L 1013:2021 Test Method for Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn 8.3.1 (Correct Fineness) a) Method Number of Filaments: JIS L 1013:2021 Test Method for Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn (8.4 Number of Filaments).

[0090] Regarding the fibers after weaving, false twist textured yarns were extracted from the woven or knitted fabrics after dyeing, and the fineness and number of filaments were measured in accordance with JIS L1013 (2010) 8.3.1B method and JIS L1013 (2010) 8.4, respectively, and the single yarn fineness was obtained from the fineness / number of filaments.

[0091] In the case of composite false twist textured yarns, the yarns were wound without being combined for measurement and evaluated (single yarn fineness of false twist textured yarn before crack formation). Furthermore, when heat treatment equivalent to dyeing processing or alkali weight reduction processing was performed, the same treatment was performed and evaluated (single yarn fineness of false twist textured yarn).

[0092] (6) Stretch Recovery Rate (CR) The stretch recovery rate (CR) was measured according to JIS L 1013:2021 Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method 8.12, except that a small skein (skein length 20 cm, number of windings 1) made from false twist textured yarn disassembled from a sample of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention was used as the sample. The measurement was performed five times, and the average value was rounded to one decimal place to obtain the first decimal place. In the case of composite false twist textured yarn, it was wound without being combined for measurement, and subjected to a heat treatment equivalent to dyeing processing, and if alkali weight reduction processing was performed, the same treatment was performed, and the evaluation was performed.

[0093] (7) Boiling Water Shrinkage Rate The false twist textured yarn before crack formation was used as a sample and measured according to JIS L2013:2021 Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method 8.18.1 (Hot Water Dimensional Change Rate) a) Method (Hanket Dimensional Change Rate).

[0094] In the case of composite false twist textured yarn, the yarn was wound without being composited for measurement and then evaluated.

[0095] (8) Twist Coefficient The twist count of false twist textured yarns or composite false twist textured yarns disassembled from samples of woven or knitted fabrics of the present invention was measured in accordance with JIS L1013:2021, Test Method for Chemical Fiber Filament Yarns, 8.13.1 (Twist count). The twist count was calculated from the obtained twist count using the following formula: Twist coefficient (K) = Twist count (T / m) × √(fineness (dtex) × 0.9).

[0096] (9) Stretchability of Woven and Knitted Fabrics The elongation percentage in the direction along the false twist textured yarn or composite false twist textured yarn of the present invention was measured according to JIS L1096 (2010) 8.16.1B. When the false twist textured yarn or composite false twist textured yarn of the present invention was used for both the warp and weft directions, the elongation percentages were measured in both the warp and weft directions, and the average value was used as the result.

[0097] (10) Glare Suppression Degree The woven or knitted fabric was dyed black, and the dyed woven or knitted fabric was observed using a digital microscope "VHX-2000" manufactured by Keyence Corporation. The observation conditions were a magnification of 50x, illuminance settings of auto 60, supercharge 60 ms, and gain of 0 dB. After photographing the surface of the woven or knitted fabric under the above conditions, an area (S2) with a brightness of 200 to 255 was extracted from the entire observation area (S1), and the glare suppression degree was calculated using the following formula: Glare suppression degree = 1 / (S2 / S1) The measurement was performed three times, and the average value was used as the result.

[0098] (11) Evaluation of heathered feel, dry feel, and resilience of woven and knitted fabrics Ten healthy adults (five men and five women) evaluated the heathered feel of the woven and knitted fabric samples visually, and the dry feel and resilience by touch, on a five-point scale of excellent (5 points), good (4 points), average (3 points), not so good (2 points), and poor (1 point), and the evaluation was performed by rounding off the average score of each examiner. For comparison, woven fabrics made of polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn with the same total fineness and filament count as those in the Examples and Comparative Examples were given an average score of 3 points.

[0099] Example 1 Polyester thermoplastic resin A was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight-average molecular weight of 25,000, and polyester thermoplastic resin B was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight-average molecular weight of 15,000. The spinning temperature was 290°C, and the polyester thermoplastic resins A and B were mixed in a mass conjugation ratio of 50:50. The distribution holes in the final distributor plate, which was the most downstream of a plurality of distributor plates, were arranged as shown in Figure 5, and the resins were allowed to flow into a conjugate fiber spinneret with 36 discharge holes. Figure 5 is a schematic diagram of the final distributor plate according to Example 1 of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention. Among the distribution holes in the final distributor plate, a group of distribution holes 19 for polyester thermoplastic resin B was formed around a group of distribution holes 18 for polyester thermoplastic resin A, forming an eccentric sheath-core structure. In this way, an eccentric sheath-core structure (Figure 2) composite cross section was formed in which polyester thermoplastic resin A was contained in polyester thermoplastic resin B. The yarn discharged from the spinneret was cooled by an air cooler, oiled, and then wound up at a speed of 2600 m / min by a winder to obtain a semi-drawn yarn having a total fineness of 240 dtex and 36 filaments as a composite fiber. ｍｉｎ / D) is 0.02, C ｔ The relationship between and C is C ｔ / C=0.40. Ａ :S Ｂ The ratio was 50:50.

[0100] Subsequently, the obtained composite fiber was false-twisted using a friction false-twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery Co., Ltd.) by feeding the above-mentioned semi-drawn yarn from a feed roller at a processing speed of 400 m / min, a pin draw ratio of 1.40 times, a pin temperature of 80°C, a heater draw ratio of 1.20 times, a heater temperature of 170°C, a false-twist coefficient of 28,000, and a twist direction of S, to obtain a false-twisted yarn having a fineness of 143 dtex.

[0101] Next, using the false twist textured yarn as the warp and weft, a plain weave fabric was produced with a warp density of 105 threads / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 90 threads / 2.54 cm.

[0102] This woven fabric was further subjected to scouring, relaxation, and intermediate heat setting. Thereafter, it was subjected to an alkali weight reduction process (weight reduction rate: 20%) to form cracks and slits on the surface of the single yarn of the false twist textured yarn. Furthermore, in the dyeing process, it was dyed using the disperse dye "Dystar Navy Blue S-GL" at a concentration of 1.0 owf% at a temperature of 130°C for 30 minutes, and then subjected to a finishing heat setting at 160°C. At this time, the apparent thickness-thinness ratio (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ The results are shown in Table 1.

[0103] [Example 2] A false twist textured yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the total fineness of the semi-drawn yarn was 270 dtex, the pin draw ratio was 1.45, and the heater draw ratio was 1.30. The resulting false twist textured yarn had a stretch recovery (CR) of 28.0%, and the woven fabric had a stretch ratio of 25%, demonstrating superior stretchability. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0104] Example 3 A false twist textured yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the pin draw ratio was 1.35 times and the heater draw ratio was 1.20 times. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0105] Example 4 A false twist textured yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the pin draw ratio was 1.20 times and the heater draw ratio was 1.35 times. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0106] Example 5 A false twist textured yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the number of spinneret holes was changed and a semi-drawn yarn with a total fineness of 240 dtex and 48 filaments was used. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0107] [Example 6] A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that in the false twisting step, a semi-drawn yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate fiber was joined in front of the heater as the other yarn, the heater draw ratio of the other yarn was 1.50, the blend ratio of false twisted yarn was 63%, and the warp density was 88 threads / inch (2.54 cm) and the weft density was 75 threads / inch (2.54 cm). The obtained fabric had a better heathered feel due to the difference in dye absorption between the false twisted yarn and the other yarn. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0108] Example 7 A semi-drawn yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the number of spinneret holes and the inflow rate of polyester thermoplastic resin were changed to a total fineness of 113 dtex and 24 single filaments. Using this semi-drawn yarn as the other yarn, a composite false twist textured yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 6. The resulting woven fabric had a superior figured look due to the difference in dye absorption between the false twist textured yarn and the other yarn, and also had excellent stretchability due to the high CR of the other yarn. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0109] [Example 8] A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the false twist textured yarn obtained in Example 2 was twisted with a twist coefficient of 3000 and in the twist direction S. The twisting improved the convergence of the false twist textured yarn, resulting in good passability through the weaving process, and the stretchability and resilience of the woven fabric were equivalent to those without twisting. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0110] [Example 9] A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the false twist textured yarn obtained in Example 2 was twisted with a twist coefficient of 3000 in the twist direction Z. The twisted yarn improved the convergence of the false twist textured yarn, and the fabric passed through the weaving process smoothly. Furthermore, the stretchability of the woven fabric was the same as that of the woven fabric without twisting. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0111] [Example 10] A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the false twist textured yarn obtained in Example 2 was twisted with a twist coefficient of 10,000 and in the twist direction S. This twisting improved the convergence of the false twist textured yarn, and it was easy to pass through the weaving process. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0112] [Example 11] A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that polyester thermoplastic resin A was a polyester having a weight average molecular weight of 25,000, in which isophthalic acid (IPA) was copolymerized in an amount of 10 mol % relative to the acid component. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0113] Example 12 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the polyester thermoplastic resin A was a polyester having a weight average molecular weight of 19,000. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0114] [Comparative Example 1] False twist textured yarn and woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that alkali reduction was not performed. Because the resulting woven fabric was not subjected to alkali reduction, cracks and slits were not formed, glare suppression was low, and the worsted appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0115] Comparative Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate with a weight-average molecular weight of 20,000 was fed into a fiber spinneret (round hole) with 36 discharge holes at a spinning temperature of 290°C. The yarn discharged from the spinneret was cooled with an air cooler, oiled, and then wound up with a winder at a speed of 2,600 m / min, resulting in a stable winding as a semi-oriented yarn with a total fineness of 240 dtex and 36 single filaments. A false twisting process and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that this semi-oriented yarn was used. The resulting woven fabric had poor stretchability, and because it was made of a single thermoplastic resin, no slits were obtained even after alkali reduction. The worsted appearance was poor due to low glare suppression. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0116] Comparative Example 3 A false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that polyester thermoplastic resin A was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight-average molecular weight of 20,000 and polyester thermoplastic resin B was polyethylene terephthalate with a weight-average molecular weight of 19,000. The resulting woven fabric had poor stretchability, and because the molecular weight difference was small, sufficient unevenness could not be obtained at the bonding interface of the composite fibers, preventing cracks from forming, and because the degree of glare suppression was low, the worsted appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0117] Comparative Example 4 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the spinneret used in Example 2 was replaced from a distributor plate type spinneret with a spinneret of the type described in JP-A-09-157941, and side-by-side conjugated fibers composed of polyester-based thermoplastic resin A and polyester-based thermoplastic resin B were used. In the case of the side-by-side conjugated fibers, the polyester-based thermoplastic resin A was exposed at the time of conjugation, and no slits were formed even after alkali reduction, so glare suppression was low and the worsted appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0118] Comparative Example 5 A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that only drawing was carried out without passing the yarn through the twister of the false twisting machine. The obtained woven fabric had a smooth surface and was inferior in dry feel. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0119] [Comparative Example 6] In the false twisting of Example 2, the same procedure as in Example 2 was carried out except that pin drawing was not carried out and the heater draw ratio was set to 1.68 times. ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ ) 1.02 false twist texture and woven fabric were obtained. The resulting woven fabric had a small thickness-to-thinness ratio of the false twist textured yarn, a low natural appearance, a uniform structure in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, a small difference in the longitudinal orientation of the molecules constituting the fiber, and no cracks due to alkali reduction, so glare suppression was low and the worsted appearance was poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0120] [Comparative Example 7] In the false twisting of Example 2, the pin draw ratio was 1.30 times and the heater draw ratio was 1.02 times. ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ A false twist texture of 3.20 was obtained. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the warp density was 88 threads / inch (2.54 cm) and the weft density was 75 threads / inch (2.54 cm). The resulting woven fabric had a large thickness-to-thin ratio of the false twist textured yarn, a mechanically mottled pattern with varying shades, and was inferior in worsted appearance. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0121] [Comparative Example 8] In Example 2, the minimum value t of the thickness t of the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A was ｍｉｎ The arrangement of the distribution holes of the final distribution plate of the spinneret used was changed from that shown in FIG. 5 to that shown in FIG. 6 so that the value of (t ｍｉｎ A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that the composite fibers were sheath-core fibers having a fiber-thickness ratio (f / D) of 0.20. Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of the final distributor plate according to Comparative Example 1. Among the distribution holes in the final distributor plate, a group of distribution holes 19 for polyester thermoplastic resin B was formed around a group of distribution holes 18 for polyester thermoplastic resin A in an eccentric sheath-core configuration.ｍｉｎ The arrangement is such that the values ​​of are as described above. In the obtained woven fabric, since the polyester thermoplastic resin B covering the polyester thermoplastic resin A is thick, the bonding interface is not exposed even when subjected to alkali weight reduction processing, so no slits are formed, and the degree of glare suppression is low, resulting in poor worsted appearance. The stretchability was also poor. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0122]

[0123]

[0124] 1: Polyester thermoplastic resin A 2: Polyester thermoplastic resin B 3: Thickness t of polyester thermoplastic resin B covering polyester thermoplastic resin A 4: False twist textured yarn 5: Crack 6: Slit 7: Composite fiber 8: First feed roller 9: Hot pin 10: Second feed roller 11: Heater 12: Twister 13: Third feed roller 14: False twist textured yarn or composite false twist textured yarn 15: Winding section 16: Other yarn 17: Fourth feed roller 18: Distribution hole for polyester thermoplastic resin A 19: Distribution hole for polyester thermoplastic resin B

Claims

1. A false-twist yarn containing polyester thermoplastic resin A and polyester thermoplastic resin B, and satisfying the following requirements. (1) The weight-average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin A. Ａ and the weight-average molecular weight M of the polyester thermoplastic resin B. Ｂ The difference (M Ａ -M Ｂ ) is between 2000 and 15000. (2) The polyester thermoplastic resin A and the polyester thermoplastic resin B are joined in an eccentric manner. (3) The apparent thickness ratio of the false-twisted yarn (D ｔｈｉｃｋ / D ｔｈｉｎ The value is between 1.05 and 3.

00. (4) The surface of the false-twisted yarn has a slit in the direction of the fiber axis and a crack in a direction substantially perpendicular to the direction of the fiber axis, and the length of the slit is 100 μm or more.

2. The false-twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single yarn fineness is 3.0 dtex or more.

3. The false-twist yarn according to claim 1, wherein the stretch recovery rate (CR) is 25.0% or more.

4. A composite false-twist yarn comprising the false-twist yarn described in claim 1 and at least one other yarn.

5. The composite false-twist yarn according to claim 4, wherein the other yarn is a crimped yarn.

6. A twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 1200 to 6000, comprising either a false-twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, or a composite false-twisted yarn according to claim 4 or 5.

7. A woven or knitted fabric comprising at least a portion of either the false-twisted yarn described in any one of claims 1 to 3, or the composite false-twisted yarn described in claim 4 or 5.

8. A garment comprising at least a portion of the woven or knitted fabric described in claim 7.

9. A woven or knitted fabric comprising at least a portion of the twisted yarn described in Claim 6.

10. A garment comprising at least a portion of the woven or knitted fabric described in Claim 9.