Anti-aging composition for remodeling dermal structure, preparation method therefor and use thereof

By using Yanshan ginger leaf extract, a mixed solution of mannose sodium phosphate and mannose, and an anti-aging composition of retinol substances in anti-aging products, the problem that existing products cannot effectively reshape the structure of the skin dermis is solved, and the effect of improving skin elasticity and dullness in the skin tone is achieved, and the safety and stability of the product is ensured.

WO2025044163A1PCT designated stage expired Publication Date: 2025-03-06N O D TOPIA (GUANGZHOU) BIOTECHNOLOGY CO LTD

Patent Information

Application Number
PCT/CN2024/082392
Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2023-08-30
Filing Date
2024-03-19
Publication Date
2025-03-06

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing anti-aging products are mainly focused on supplementing collagen and elastin, and cannot effectively reshape the skin dermis structure and improve skin elasticity and dull skin tone.

Method used

It provides an anti-aging composition that reshapes the structure of the dermis, including Yanshan ginger leaf extract, a mixed solution of mannose sodium phosphate and mannose, and retinol substances, which promote the production and cohesion of collagen and elastin through synergistic action, enhance cellular energy, and reshape the structure of the dermis.

Benefits of technology

It has achieved the reconstruction of the skin dermis structure, improved the skin barrier function, brightened the skin tone, achieved excellent anti-aging effects, and ensured the gentleness and stability of the product.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Patent Text Reader

Abstract

An anti-aging composition for remodeling a dermal structure, a preparation method therefor and a use thereof, relating to the technical field of cosmetics. The anti-aging composition provided comprises the following components in parts by mass: 0.1-5 parts of an alpinia zerumbet leaf extract, 0.01-2 parts of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.01-0.2 parts of retinol substances. The composition provided can promote the generation of collagen and elastin in a reticular layer, enhance the cohesion, enable the reticular layer to have a more compact structure and fiber bundles to be more tightly woven, and promote fibroblast proliferation and metabolism to prevent the extracellular matrix from disintegration, thereby completing remodeling of the dermal structure, toughening the dermal-epidermal junction, and achieving the effect of lifting and firming the skin. The composition can also be prepared into an essence to achieve the effects of ameliorating skin dullness and repairing the skin barrier. The preparation methods for the anti-aging composition and the essence are simple, the raw materials are easily obtained, and the actual production is easy.
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Description

An anti-aging composition for reshaping dermal structure, and its preparation method and application Technical Field

[0001] The present invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to an anti-aging composition for reshaping dermal structure, a preparation method thereof, and an application thereof. Background Art

[0002] As we age, our skin exhibits progressive signs of aging, including crow's feet, forehead and glabellar lines, sagging skin, dull complexion, and melasma. This range of physiological conditions has sparked widespread concern about the appearance of our skin. With rising living standards and increased stress, many people's skin is showing signs of excessive aging. The rapid loss of collagen and elastin is considered one of the most significant characteristics of skin aging. When these components are lacking in the skin, the dermis is prone to collapse, leading to a blurred jawline and sagging facial features. Furthermore, skin cells require a certain amount of energy to cope with environmental stress and repair damage. When cellular energy is depleted, cell activity decreases, which can also lead to visible signs of aging on the skin.

[0003] Currently, there are a variety of anti-aging products, but most of them focus on replenishing collagen and elastin. However, simply replenishing collagen and elastin is not enough. It is also necessary to provide cellular energy, rebuild the extracellular matrix, and restore the tensile strength of collagen fiber bundles to better restore skin elasticity and improve aging.

[0004] Summary of the Invention

[0005] The purpose of the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the above-mentioned prior art and provide an anti-aging composition that can effectively promote the production of collagen and elastin in the skin, promote the remodeling of the skin's dermal structure, improve the skin barrier and dull skin tone, that is, an anti-aging composition that remodels the dermal structure with excellent anti-aging effects, as well as its preparation method and application.

[0006] To achieve the above objectives, in a first aspect of the present invention, an anti-aging composition for reshaping dermal structure is provided, wherein the anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-5 parts of an extract of Alpinia galanga leaves, 0.01-2 parts of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.01-0.2 parts of a retinol-like substance;

[0007] The sodium mannose phosphate and mannose mixed solution is a mixture of sodium mannose phosphate, mannose, glycerol and water.

[0008] The present invention selects appropriate mass parts of Alpinia glabra leaf extract, sodium mannose phosphate and mannose mixed solution and retinol substances, and the three can play an excellent synergistic role. Within the mass parts range given by the present invention, it can not only promote the production of collagen and elastin, but also enhance their cohesion, make the reticular layer structure more compact, and weave the fiber bundles more tightly. It can also prevent the disintegration of the extracellular matrix (ECM) by promoting fibroblast proliferation and metabolism, thereby completing the remodeling of the dermal structure, strengthening the dermis and epidermal junction (EDJ), achieving the effect of lifting and firming the skin, and having a certain tough barrier and improving skin color. The composition within the mass parts range given by the present invention can also promote the synthesis of cellular ATP, restore cell mitochondrial function, and enable cells to have sufficient energy to complete a series of skin renewal including collagen and elastin synthesis, old waste cell removal, skin damage repair, etc., maintain the integrity of the cell structure, achieve the dual role of "supplementation and construction", and thus achieve excellent anti-aging effects.

[0009] Specifically, Alpinia glabra leaves are a plant of the genus Alpinia in the Zingiberaceae family. It is a recognized plant for longevity and a commonly used medicine for ethnic minorities in Guizhou. It mainly contains volatile oils, flavonoids, and diterpenes. The inventors have found that the extract of Alpinia glabra leaves has a good ability to promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin, and can promote the proliferation of keratinocytes. The inventors have shown through in vitro experiments that it can inhibit the expression of matrix metalloproteinases and has a good effect on skin repair and regeneration. The sodium mannose phosphate contained in the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose is a mannose-6-phosphate complex, which is related to glycolysis and mitochondrial activity in the body. When added in the form of a solution, it can cooperate with other components in the solution to enhance cell vitality, recharge cells, and enable cells to have energy to synthesize substances such as collagen and elastin. It can also dense the reticular layer and strengthen the epidermal junction layer, thereby enabling the composition to have the ability to reshape the dermal structure. Retinols can directly bind to the skin's retinoic acid receptors (RARs) and retinol-X receptors (RXRs). The inventors have discovered that retinols have potent anti-aging effects, inhibit oil secretion, have antioxidant and anti-glycation properties, and are also excellent in regulating epidermal and stratum corneum metabolism.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, the anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-3 parts of Alpinia galanga leaf extract, 0.1-1.5 parts of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.05-0.1 parts of a retinol-like substance.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, the composition comprises 1-2 parts of Alpinia galanga leaf extract, 0.5-1 part of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.1 part of a retinol-like substance.

[0012] The inventors have discovered that changes in the number of components added to an anti-aging composition directly affect the product's ability to promote collagen and elastin synthesis, and when subsequently added to an essence, this affects the essence's effects on human skin barrier repair, skin tone improvement, and firming. Simultaneously, the inventors discovered during experiments that the effect of gradually increasing or decreasing the content of a single component on the overall product effect is not linear. When the number of components added is further selected within the preferred range of the present invention, the resulting product achieves the best overall effect.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, the Alpinia galanga leaf extract contains quercetin-3-0 glucuronide; based on the Alpinia galanga leaf extract, the mass percentage of the quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is 5-20%.

[0014] As a preferred embodiment of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, the mass percentage of the quercetin-3-O glucuronide is 6-15% based on the composition.

[0015] The present invention discloses a method for preparing the Alpinia galanga leaf extract, comprising collecting leaves from the Alpinia galanga plant, air-drying them to constant weight, and then grinding them into a fine powder using a grinder. The powder is then passed through a No. 5 sieve, and the mixture is extracted 2-5 times with 70-95% ethanol at 15-40°C. The filtrates are combined and recovered by rotary evaporation until the alcohol flavor is eliminated. The mixture is then suspended in an appropriate amount of hot water and filtered to obtain the Alpinia galanga leaf extract. Using this extraction method, by adjusting the extraction parameters, the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract can be adjusted between 2% and 25%. Alpinia galanga leaf extract contains a large amount of flavonoids, among which quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is one of the flavonoids. The inventor accidentally discovered during experiments that when the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is simply changed, it not only affects collagen or elastin, but also affects the essence's skin tone improvement and firming effects when subsequently applied to an essence. When the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract is further preferably 5-20%, and the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the composition is 6-15%, the overall effect obtained is even better.

[0016] As a preferred embodiment of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, in the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, the mass ratio of sodium mannose phosphate, mannose, water and glycerol is sodium mannose phosphate: mannose: water: glycerol = 3:3:47:47.

[0017] Sodium mannose phosphate, mannose, and glycerol in the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose can all play a certain role in anti-aging to a certain extent, and the three can also work synergistically with the extract of Alpinia galanga leaves and retinol substances. The inventors have found that when the component ratio of the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose is further selected to be sodium mannose phosphate: mannose: water: glycerol = 3:3:47:47, the overall effect of the obtained product is better.

[0018] As a preferred embodiment of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, the retinol substance is selected from at least one of retinol, retinoic acid, hydrogenated retinol, retinyl retinoate, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinol linoleate, retinyl propionate, and hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

[0019] Preferably, the retinol substance is hydroxypinacolone retinoic acid ester.

[0020] Hydroxypinacolone retinoate is a derivative of retinol. The inventors have found that compared with retinol or other retinol derivatives, the combined effect of hydroxypinacolone retinoate and the other two components is more excellent. When subsequently used in the preparation of essences, the resulting essence is less irritating and more stable.

[0021] In a second aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a method for preparing the anti-aging composition, which comprises the following steps: mixing the components to obtain the anti-aging composition.

[0022] The preparation method of the anti-aging composition provided by the present invention is simple and conventional and does not require any special equipment.

[0023] In the third aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides use of the anti-aging composition in preparing cosmetics.

[0024] As a preferred embodiment of the application of the present invention, the cosmetics include any one of lotion, emulsion, cream, mask, essence, sunscreen, and spray.

[0025] In a fourth aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides an essence comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 1.2-7.2% of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, 4-50% of a cosmetic base, and 40-96% of water.

[0026] Preferably, the essence comprises the following components in the following mass percentages: 3.2-7.2% of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, 4-50% of a cosmetic base, and 40-96% of water.

[0027] The inventors have found that when preparing essence, excellent effects can be achieved when the addition amount of the composition of the present invention is selected to be 1.2-7.2%. In particular, when the addition amount of the composition is further selected to be 3.2-7.2%, the comprehensive effect of the obtained product is even better.

[0028] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the essence further comprises dimethyl isosorbide.

[0029] Isosorbide dimethyl ether is used as a solubilizer in the present invention. Its addition can well dissolve retinol substances, thereby making the obtained essence system more stable.

[0030] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the cosmetic matrix is ​​selected from at least one of a thickener, a heat-preserving agent, an emulsifier, a preservative, a flavor, and a pH regulator.

[0031] Preferably, the thickener is at least one of xanthan gum, carbomer, and sclerotium gum;

[0032] and / or, the heat-preserving agent is at least one of glycerin, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, sodium hyaluronate, glyceryl glucoside, D-panthenol, β-glucan, and allantoin;

[0033] and / or, the emulsifier is at least one of isononyl isononanoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tocopheryl acetate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, and polydimethylsiloxane;

[0034] And / or, the preservative is at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, and 1,2-pentanediol;

[0035] And / or, the pH adjuster is arginine.

[0036] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, the essence includes the following components in parts by weight: 1.2-7.2% of the anti-aging composition of the present invention, 0.1-0.5% of a thickener, 4-20% of a moisturizing agent, 0.1-10% of an emulsifier, 0.5-5% of a preservative, 0.05-0.2% of a flavor, 0.05-0.1% of a pH adjuster, 0.1-1.5% of dimethyl isosorbide, and the balance of water.

[0037] The inventors have found that when the components of the essence are within the above mass percentage range, the overall performance of the obtained essence is excellent.

[0038] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, in the essence, the mass ratio of dimethyl isosorbide to retinol substances is (1-5):1.

[0039] As a preferred embodiment of the essence of the present invention, in the essence, the mass ratio of dimethyl isosorbide to retinol is 2:1.

[0040] The inventors have found that the mass ratio of dimethyl isosorbide to retinol in the essence affects the stability of the essence. When the mass ratio of dimethyl isosorbide to retinol is preferably (1-5):1, the resulting product has excellent stability and can better exert the efficacy of the essence. In particular, when the mass ratio of the two is 2:1, the overall effect of the resulting product is even better.

[0041] In a fifth aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a method for preparing the essence, comprising the following steps:

[0042] Mixing a portion of the heat-insulating agent, the thickener and water, heating and stirring, to obtain a prefabricated aqueous phase component;

[0043] The emulsifier is mixed, stirred and heated to obtain a prefabricated oil phase component;

[0044] Mixing the preservatives, stirring, and heating to obtain a preformed preservative component;

[0045] Adding the prefabricated oil phase component to the prefabricated water phase component while stirring, then cooling and adding the prefabricated preservative component to obtain a mixed solution A;

[0046] Mixing the retinol component and dimethyl isosorbide, and then adding the extract of Alpinia galanga leaves and a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose to obtain a mixed solution B;

[0047] The mixed solution B is added to the cooled mixed solution A, and then the remaining heat preservation agent and essence are added, stirred evenly, and the pH is adjusted to 5.5-6 to obtain the essence.

[0048] As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, part of the heat preservation agent refers to the components in the heat preservation agent that can withstand high temperatures, such as glycerol, butylene glycol, and sodium hyaluronate; the remaining heat preservation agent refers to the components that cannot withstand high temperatures, such as glycerol glucoside and D-panthenol; wherein the high temperature refers to 70-80°C.

[0049] As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, when preparing the prefabricated aqueous phase component, the heating and stirring temperature is 70-80° C., the rotation speed is 1100-1300 rpm, and the time is 3-8 minutes.

[0050] As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, when preparing the prefabricated oil phase component, the stirring temperature is 70-80° C., the rotation speed is 1100-1300 rpm, and the time is 3-8 minutes.

[0051] As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, when preparing the prefabricated preservative component, the heating temperature is 55-65°C.

[0052] As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, the prefabricated oil phase component is added to the prefabricated water phase component at a temperature of 75-85°C, stirred while adding, and the stirring speed is 700-900 rpm, followed by cooling to 55-65°C and adding the prefabricated preservative component to obtain mixed solution A.

[0053] As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, when the mixed solution B is added to the cooled mixed solution A, the temperature after cooling is 35-45°C.

[0054] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects:

[0055] The present invention provides an anti-aging composition for reshaping the dermis structure. The three components in the anti-aging composition can cooperate with each other. Within the given range, it can not only promote the production of collagen and elastin, enhance cohesion, make the reticular layer structure more compact, weave the fiber bundles more tightly, and promote fibroblast proliferation and metabolism to prevent the disintegration of the extracellular matrix, thereby completing the reshaping of the dermis structure, strengthening the dermis and epidermis connecting layer, and achieving the effect of lifting and firming the skin; when it is applied to the preparation of essence, it can also achieve the effect of improving skin dullness and brightening skin color. At the same time, the anti-aging composition provided by the present invention can be added as an active ingredient in the preparation of other cosmetics. The obtained cosmetics are mild and non-irritating on the basis of having anti-aging efficacy, and have excellent stability. In addition, the preparation method of the anti-aging composition and essence of the present invention is simple, the raw materials are easily available, and it is easy to actually produce. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0056] In order to better illustrate the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments.

[0057] Unless otherwise specified, the reagents, methods, and equipment used in the present invention are all conventional reagents, methods, and equipment in the art; and unless otherwise specified, the raw materials used in parallel experiments are from the same batch of raw materials.

[0058] Alpinia glabra leaf extract 1: the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is 20%;

[0059] Alpinia glabra leaf extract 2: the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is 5%;

[0060] Alpinia glabra leaf extract 3: the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is 25%;

[0061] Mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose 1: sodium mannose phosphate: mannose: water: glycerol = 3:3:47:47;

[0062] Sodium mannose phosphate and mannose mixed solution 2: sodium mannose phosphate: mannose: water: glycerol = 10:10:40:40;

[0063] Mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose 3: sodium mannose phosphate: water: glycerol = 6:47:47;

[0064] Retinoids 1: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate;

[0065] Retinoids 2: Retinol.

[0066] Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-6

[0067] Examples 1-9 of the present invention and Comparative Examples 1-6 provide an anti-aging composition, the component contents (parts by mass) of which are shown in Table 1;

[0068] Table 1

[0069] The preparation method of the anti-aging composition provided in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-6 is as follows: uniformly mixing the components to obtain the anti-aging composition.

[0070] Examples 10-18 and Comparative Examples 7-12

[0071] Examples 10-18 of the present invention and comparative examples 7-12 provide an essence, the components (mass percentage, %) of the essence are shown in Table 2;

[0072] Table 2

[0073] The anti-aging compositions in the formulations of Examples 10-18 are respectively the anti-aging compositions prepared in Examples 1-9, the anti-aging compositions in the formulations of Examples 19-22 and Comparative Example 13 are the anti-aging compositions in Example 1; the anti-aging compositions in the formulations of Comparative Examples 7-12 are respectively the anti-aging compositions prepared from the anti-aging compositions prepared in Comparative Examples 1-6;

[0074] The preparation methods of the essences provided in Examples 10-22 and Comparative Examples 7-13 are as follows:

[0075] (1) Mix the components of phase A and water, heat to 75°C, homogenize at 1200 rpm for 5 minutes, and keep warm for later use;

[0076] (2) Mix the components of phase B, start stirring, and heat to 75°C. Stir at 1200 rpm for 5 minutes and keep warm for later use.

[0077] (3) Mix the components of phase C and heat to 60°C to melt them;

[0078] (4) Add the phase A component to the water phase pot, heat it to 80°C, start stirring, add the phase B component heated to 80°C at a speed of 800 rpm, stir and emulsify evenly to obtain a mixed solution;

[0079] (5) The mixed solution is cooled to 60°C, and the components of phase C are added. The retinol components in the composition are thoroughly mixed with dimethyl isosorbide, and then added with the mixed solution of Alpinia galanga leaf extract and sodium mannose phosphate and mannose to the mixed solution cooled to below 40°C. The heat preservation agent and flavor in phase D are added and stirred evenly. The pH is adjusted to the range of 5.5-6 with a pH adjuster (arginine), and the material is discharged to obtain an essence.

[0080] Comparative Example 14

[0081] The comparative example of the present invention provides an essence. The only difference between the essence and Example 10 is that step (5) in the preparation method is different. Step (5) in the preparation method of this comparative example is:

[0082] (5) The mixed solution is cooled to 60°C, and the components of phase C are added. The composition and dimethyl isosorbide are added to the mixed solution cooled to below 40°C, and the extract of Alpinia glabra leaves and the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose are added at the same time. Then, the heat preservation agent and flavor in phase D are added, and the mixture is stirred evenly. The pH is adjusted to the range of 5.5-6 with a pH regulator (arginine), and the mixture is discharged to obtain an essence.

[0083] Effect Example 1

[0084] 75% of the skin's dermis is composed of collagen. Fibrous collagen and elastin form a network structure that provides tension to the skin and gives the tissue elasticity. The two are mixed together to form the basic substance of the skin, maintaining the structural integrity of the skin's dermis and making the skin elastic and firm. Type I collagen is the most abundant protein in the skin. The distribution of type I collagen in zebrafish is the same as that in humans, and it shows a high degree of conservatism with humans. The elastin gene is also highly conserved. By testing the expression of zebrafish type I collagen genes (collala, colla1b, and colla2) and the corresponding elastin gene Eln1, it can be judged whether the sample has the effect of promoting the regeneration of collagen and elastin, reshaping the structure of the dermis, and anti-wrinkle and firming the skin. Therefore, this effect example evaluates the efficacy of the composition prepared in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-6 by performing zebrafish collagen and elastin gene detection. The experiment was carried out according to the conditions of Table 3, and the results are shown in Table 4. Specifically comprising the following steps:

[0085] (1) Sample Preparation: The compositions prepared in Examples 1-9 and Comparative Examples 1-6 were homogenized with water at a mass ratio of 0.25%, then ultrasonically treated for 10 minutes. The mixture was then added to a fish embryo culture medium to adjust to the desired concentration. After oscillation for 30 seconds, the mixture was centrifuged at 6500 rpm for 10 minutes. The supernatant was collected for testing. The concentration of the test solution was such that the mortality rate of the zebrafish embryos was less than 10% (embryos without heartbeat characteristics were defined as dead). Three concentration groups were set for testing.

[0086] (2) Test steps:

[0087] 1) Select healthy zebrafish embryos, 6 days post-fertilization (PFS). The test requires a blank control group (egg culture medium) and a sample group (test sample). Each well contains 6 zebrafish and 2.5 mL of embryo culture medium. Incubate in a 28 ± 1°C incubator until 24 ± 1 hours post-fertilization. Collect 12 zebrafish from each well into a 1.5 mL tube, remove the solution, add 0.5 mL of RNAlater solution, and store frozen.

[0088] 2) Remove RNAlater solution and rinse three times with PBS. Place on ice, remove PBS, and add 500 μL TRIzol reagent. Homogenize the embryos with a pellet pestle and place on ice for 10 minutes. Add 100 μL of chloroform, vortex for 1 minute, and place on ice for 5 minutes. Centrifuge the sample for 20 minutes, transfer the supernatant to a 1.5 mL centrifuge tube, add 250 μL of isopropanol, vortex for 1 minute, place on ice for 10 minutes, and centrifuge the sample for 20 minutes. Remove all supernatant, add 500 μL of ethanol, vortex for 1 minute, centrifuge the sample for 5 minutes, and place on ice for 10 minutes. Repeat this step three times. Remove ethanol, centrifuge the sample for 5 minutes, and air-dry the sample in a fume hood with the lid open for 10 minutes. Add 10 μL of DNase- / RNase-free ultrapure distilled water and heat at 55°C for 15 minutes. Dilute the RNA sample to 1000 ng / 7 μL with DNase- / RNase-free ultrapure distilled water. cDNA was synthesized from RNA using the PrimerScript RT Reagent Kit with gDNAEraser (Takara; Cat no. RR047A) and stored frozen. Primer mixes and real-time PCR master mixes were prepared for each primer. The cDNA sample was diluted 10-fold with DNase- / RNase-free ultrapure distilled water. 9 μL of the PCR master mix and 1 μL of the diluted cDNA sample were added to each well of a 96-well PCR plate. The 96-well plate was sealed with optical film and centrifuged for 5 minutes before real-time PCR amplification. The operating conditions are shown in Table 3.

[0089] Table 3

[0090] Result calculation:

[0091] Calculate the promotion rate of collagen and elastin gene expression:

[0092] Promotion rate (%) = (gene expression level in the blank group - gene expression level in the test group) / gene expression level in the blank group × 100%

[0093] A two-tailed T test was performed on the relative expression levels of zebrafish elastin gene in the test substance treatment group and the blank control group to obtain the p value; the results are shown in Table 4;

[0094] Table 4

[0095] As can be seen from Table 4, when the technical solution of the present invention is adopted, the obtained product has excellent collagen and elastin gene expression promotion rates, and the obtained type I collagen gene (colla1a, colla1b and colla2) expression and the corresponding elastin gene Eln1 promotion rates are above 87%, 77%, 83% and 69%, respectively;

[0096] It can be seen from Examples 1-5 and Comparative Example 4 that the mass parts (mass ratio) of the components of the Alpinia glabra leaf extract, the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and the retinol substances will affect the performance of the product. When the mass parts of the Alpinia glabra leaf extract, the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and the retinol substances are further preferably 0.5-3 parts of the Alpinia glabra leaf extract, 0.1-1.5 parts of the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.05-0.5 parts of the retinol substances, the obtained product has a higher promotion rate for collala, collalb, colla2, and Eln1 genes, which are respectively above 132%, 131%, 107%, and 74%; when the mass parts of the components in Comparative Example 4 are not within the scope of the present invention, the promotion rates of the obtained product for collala, collalb, colla2, and Eln1 all show a significant downward trend;

[0097] As can be seen from Examples 1 and 6-7, the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract also affects the performance of the product. When the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract is within the range of 5-20%, the obtained product has a better promotion rate for collala, collalb, colla2 and Eln1; especially when the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract is 20%, the obtained effect is optimal;

[0098] It can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 that regardless of the lack of any one of the compositions, the promotion rate of the obtained product on the type I collagen gene and elastin gene of zebrafish is significantly reduced. Compared with Example 1, the promotion rates of the products obtained in Comparative Examples 1-3 on colIla1a, colla1b, colla2 and Eln1 are reduced by more than 51%, more than 60%, more than 56% and more than 41%, respectively;

[0099] It can be seen from Example 1 and Comparative Examples 5-6 that when the types of components are changed and replaced with similar substances, the promotion rate of the obtained product on the type I collagen gene and elastin gene of zebrafish also decreases significantly.

[0100] Effect Example 2

[0101] This effect example verifies the stability of the essences provided in Examples 10, 14, 16-18, 21-22, and Comparative Examples 11-14. The specific verification process is to place the samples in a constant temperature device at 50°C, 40°C, 25°C, 5°C, and -8°C and in a UV light aging chamber for stability testing. The samples are taken out on the 0th, 1st, 7th, 14th, 21st, and 30th day to observe whether there are obvious abnormal changes in appearance such as discoloration, delamination, precipitation, and precipitation. The results are shown in Table 5.

[0102] Table 5

[0103] As can be seen from Table 5, although the color of the essence obtained using the technical solution of the present invention changes in UV and high temperature environments, it is within an acceptable range, that is, the stability is excellent. As can be seen from Examples 10 and 18, when the retinol substance is further selected as hydroxypinacolone retinoate, the stability of the obtained essence is even better. As can be seen from Examples 10 and 21-22, when the mass ratio of dimethyl isosorbide and hydroxypinacolone retinoate is further selected to be (1-5):1, especially 2:1, the stability of the obtained essence is even better.

[0104] It can be seen from Example 10 and Comparative Example 11 that when the components in the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose are changed and mannose is not added, the stability of the obtained essence shows a downward trend;

[0105] It can be seen from Example 10 and Comparative Example 13 that when the amount of the anti-aging composition is further increased to 8%, the stability of the obtained essence shows a downward trend;

[0106] It can be seen from Example 10 and Comparative Example 14 that the essence exhibits severe discoloration or instability under UV, 50°C, 40°C, and -8°C conditions, indicating that dimethyl isosorbide needs to be pre-mixed with the retinol component to better exert its effect.

[0107] Effect Example 3

[0108] This effect example verifies the safety of the essences provided in Example 10, Example 14, Examples 16-18, and Comparative Examples 11-14, and specifically includes the following steps:

[0109] Twenty-eight volunteers aged 20-50 were selected. The wells of the patch tester were numbered and the test sample was placed into the corresponding well, with a dosage of 0.02 mL per well. The patch tester containing the test substance was applied to the subject's back using hypoallergenic tape, and gently pressed with the palm of the hand to evenly adhere the sample to the skin. This was maintained for 24 hours. The patch tester was then removed and the skin condition at the site of the wound was observed. The identification criteria are shown in Table 6, and the irritation verification results are shown in Table 7.

[0110] Table 6

[0111] Table 7

[0112] As can be seen from Table 7, the essence obtained by adopting the technical solution of the present invention is less irritating to the skin, which meets the requirement of the "Cosmetic Hygiene Standard" for non-irritating skin care products.

[0113] As can be seen from Example 10 and Comparative Example 13, when the addition amount of the anti-aging composition is further increased to 8%, the irritation of the resulting essence shows a certain increasing trend; as can be seen from Example 10 and Comparative Example 14, when dimethyl isosorbide and retinol components are not pre-mixed, the resulting essence will have a certain irritating reaction.

[0114] Effect Example 4

[0115] This effect example verifies the human application effect of the essence provided in Example 10, Example 14, Examples 16-20, Comparative Examples 10-12 and Comparative Example 14, and specifically includes the following steps:

[0116] The 48 volunteers were not allowed to apply any products to the test area on the day of their visit. After washing their faces, they sat quietly in an air-conditioned room at a temperature of 21±1°C and a humidity of 50±10% for 20 minutes. They were randomly divided into 6 groups, with 8 people in each group. The initial TEWL value, ITA value and skin firmness parameter F4 of the facial zygomatic area were measured using Hex (Coutage+Khazaka), Colorimeter CL400 and Cutometer (MPA580, Courage and Khazaka, Germany).

[0117] The test essences obtained in Example 10, Example 14, Examples 16-20, Comparative Examples 10-12 and Comparative Example 14 were distributed to 6 groups of volunteers. Two test emulsions were used on half of each face, and the last group used a blank essence (essence without adding the anti-aging composition) on half of the face. After using the products for 14 days and 28 days, the TEWL value, ITA° value and skin firmness parameter F4 of the test areas were measured. The skin barrier repair ability of the two samples was represented by the improvement of the TEWL value, the skin color improvement ability was represented by the improvement of the ITA° value, and the anti-aging ability was represented by the improvement of the skin firmness parameter F4. The calculation formula of the improvement rate is as follows: Improvement rate (%) = (X 修护节点 -X 建立模型节点 ) / (X 修护节点 -X 初始节点 )×100%×-l;

[0118] The results obtained by testing and calculation are shown in Table 8;

[0119] Table 8

[0120] As can be seen from Table 8, when the technical solution of the present invention is selected, the obtained essence can effectively repair the skin barrier, improve skin tone, and enhance skin firmness compared with the blank group. Specifically, at 28 days, the TEWL improvement rate, ITA° value improvement rate, and F4 improvement rate of the obtained product are above 11.25%, 9.41%, and 12.43%, respectively.

[0121] It can be seen from Examples 10 and 14 that the mass ratio of the components in the prepared anti-aging composition will affect the performance of the subsequently prepared essence. When the mass ratios of the Alpinia galanga leaf extract, the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and the retinols are further preferably 0.5-3 parts of the Alpinia galanga leaf extract, 0.1-1.5 parts of the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.1 parts of the retinols, the obtained product has better effects in repairing the skin barrier, improving skin tone, and enhancing skin firmness. At 28 days, the TEWL improvement rate, ITA° value improvement rate, and F4 improvement rate of the obtained product are above 17.67%, 14.74%, and 115.53%, respectively.

[0122] As can be seen from Examples 10 and 16, the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract also affects the performance of the essence. When the mass percentage of quercetin-3-0 glucuronide in the Alpinia galanga leaf extract is within the range of 5-20%, the obtained product has better effects on repairing the skin barrier, improving skin tone, and enhancing skin firmness.

[0123] It can be seen from Examples 10 and 17 that changing the mass ratio of the components in the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose will affect the product's effects on repairing the skin barrier, improving skin tone, and enhancing skin firmness.

[0124] As can be seen from Examples 10 and 18, changing the type of retinol also affects the effects of repairing the skin barrier, improving skin tone, and enhancing skin firmness. When the retinol is preferably hydroxypinacolone retinoate, the overall effect is better.

[0125] It can be seen from Example 10 and Examples 19-20 that when the mass percentage of the anti-aging composition added is further preferably 3.2%, the comprehensive effect is optimal;

[0126] As can be seen from Example 10 and Comparative Examples 10-12, when the types of anti-aging compositions are changed and replaced with similar substances, and then used as active ingredients in the preparation of an essence, not only does the ability of the composition to increase collagen and elastin decrease as shown in Effect Example 1, but when applied to an essence, the skin firming effect is significantly reduced, and the ability to improve skin tone and repair the skin barrier is also significantly reduced.

[0127] It can be seen from Example 13 and Comparative Example 14 that when the preparation method of the essence is not that provided in the present invention, the obtained essence not only has reduced stability, but also has a certain downward trend in comprehensive performance.

[0128] Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are intended to illustrate the technical solutions of the present invention rather than to limit the scope of protection of the present invention. Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that the technical solutions of the present invention may be modified or replaced by equivalents without departing from the essence and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims

1. An anti-aging composition for reshaping dermal structure, characterized in that: The anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-5 parts of Alpinia galanga leaf extract, 0.01-2 parts of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.01-0.2 parts of a retinol-like substance; The sodium mannose phosphate and mannose mixed solution is a mixture of sodium mannose phosphate, mannose, glycerol and water; The preparation method of the Alpinia galanga leaf extract comprises: collecting leaves of the Alpinia galanga plant, drying them naturally to constant weight, crushing them into fine powder by a grinder, passing them through a No. 5 sieve, adding 70-95% ethanol in an amount of 2-5 times the mass of the fine powder, extracting them at 15-40° C. for 2-5 times, combining the filtrates, recovering them by a rotary evaporator until there is no alcohol taste, adding an appropriate amount of hot water to suspend them, and then filtering them to obtain the Alpinia galanga leaf extract; The Alpinia galanga leaf extract contains quercetin-3-0 glucuronide; based on the Alpinia galanga leaf extract, the mass percentage of the quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is 5-20%; In the mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, the mass ratio of sodium mannose phosphate, mannose, water and glycerol is sodium mannose phosphate: mannose: water: glycerol = 3: 3: 47:

47.

2. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-3 parts of Alpinia galanga leaf extract, 0.1-1.5 parts of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.05-0.1 parts of a retinol-like substance.

3. The anti-aging composition according to claim 2, characterized in that: The anti-aging composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-2 parts of Alpinia galanga leaf extract, 0.5-1 parts of a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose, and 0.1 parts of a retinol-like substance.

4. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: Based on the composition, the mass percentage of the quercetin-3-0 glucuronide is 6-15%.

5. The anti-aging composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The retinol substance is at least one selected from retinol, retinoic acid, hydrogenated retinol, retinol retinoic acid ester, retinol acetate, retinol palmitate, retinol linoleate, retinol propionate, and hydroxypinacolone retinoic acid ester.

6. Use of the anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the preparation of cosmetics.

7. An essence, characterized in that: The essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1.2-7.2% of the anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, 4-50% of a cosmetic base, and 40-96% of water.

8. The essence according to claim 7, characterized in that The essence also includes isosorbide dimethyl ether.

9. The essence according to claim 8, characterized in that The cosmetic matrix is ​​selected from at least one of a thickener, a moisturizer, an emulsifier, a preservative, a flavor, and a pH adjuster.

10. The essence according to claim 9, characterized in that The essence comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1.2-7.2% of the anti-aging composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, 0.1-0.5% of a thickener, 4-20% of a moisturizer, 0.1-10% of an emulsifier, 0.5-5% of a preservative, 0.05-0.2% of a flavor, 0.05-0.1% of a pH adjuster, 0.1-1.5% of dimethyl isosorbide, and the balance of water.

11. The essence according to claim 10, characterized in that In the essence, the mass ratio of isosorbide dimethyl ether to retinol substances is (1-5):

1.

12. The essence according to claim 11, characterized in that In the essence, the mass ratio of isosorbide dimethyl ether to retinol substances is 2:

1.

13. The method for preparing the essence according to any one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that: The preparation method comprises the following steps: Mixing a portion of the moisturizer, the thickener and water, heating and stirring, to obtain a prefabricated water phase component; The emulsifier is mixed, stirred and heated to obtain a prefabricated oil phase component; Mixing the preservatives, stirring and heating to obtain a preformed preservative component; The prefabricated oil phase component is added to the prefabricated water phase component, and stirred while adding, and then the temperature is lowered and the prefabricated preservative component is added to obtain a mixed solution A; The retinol component and dimethyl isosorbide are mixed, and then the extract of Alpinia galanga leaves and a mixed solution of sodium mannose phosphate and mannose are added to obtain a mixed solution B; Add mixed liquid B to the cooled mixed liquid A, and then add the remaining moisturizer and fragrance. Stir evenly and adjust the pH to 5.5-6 to obtain the essence.

Citation Information

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