Hydrogen peroxide-containing developer for oxidative dyes and bleaching agents for keratin fibers
The hydrogen peroxide-containing developer, used in conjunction with an alkalizing agent and optional dyes, addresses the issue of hair damage and uneven application in oxidative hair treatments, resulting in protected, evenly colored keratin fibers.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/EP2024/080448
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-11-13
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing oxidative hair coloring and bleaching methods damage keratin fibers, reduce their natural hydrophobicity, and often require multi-step processes or products that can impair color washfastness or weigh down the hair.
A hydrogen peroxide-containing developer is used in combination with a composition containing an alkalizing agent and optional oxidation dye precursors or direct dyes, applied directly to keratin fibers to achieve oxidative coloring or bleaching while minimizing damage and ensuring even application.
The solution provides improved hair protection during oxidative treatments, maintains the natural hydrophobicity of keratin fibers, and achieves permanent, homogeneous color results without dripping or impairing washfastness.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] Hydrogen peroxide-containing developer for oxidative coloring and bleaching agents for keratin fibers
[0002] The present invention relates to a hair-friendly oxidizing agent for oxidative hair coloring or bleaching and to a gentle method for oxidative hair coloring or bleaching in which keratin fibers are protected from oxidative influences.
[0003] When hair is dyed or bleached using oxidative methods, the aggressive agents can cause damage to the keratin fiber. In particular, the natural hydrophobicity of the keratin fiber is reduced, as the dyeing or bleaching agents must first penetrate the hair to take effect. However, the water-repellent effect is, on the one hand, a natural protection for the hair, and, on the other, closely linked to consumer-desired parameters such as shine, softness, feel, and hair "fall."
[0004] To overcome these disadvantages, so-called pre-treatment products are available on the market, which are intended to protect the hair from aggressive influences. However, these often weigh down the hair or impair the success of the subsequent lightening or coloring process; in particular, the washfastness of the color can be impaired by the pre-treatment product. Numerous after-treatment products are also known, which attempt to repair the hair damage caused by oxidative coloring. However, all of these methods require a multi-step application process, namely the application of another hair treatment product either before or after the coloring process. This is often perceived as annoying by consumers, since the oxidative coloring treatment itself is very complex, with multiple steps and a processing time of up to 60 minutes.
[0005] So-called foam hair dyes are appreciated by consumers because the foam is easy to apply and can be worked into the hair. However, if the underlying surfactant solutions contain ingredients that cause the resulting foam to be too stable and break too slowly on the hair, this can be very disadvantageous. This makes it difficult or even impossible for the hair to be evenly coated with the coloring or lightening agent. This also impairs the homogeneity of the color change result. Furthermore, foam hair dyes have a strong tendency to drip down from the keratin fibers before the required exposure time has elapsed.
[0006] Patent application CN1 14652625A discloses agents for the oxidative lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, in which the alkaline dye-containing component and the hydrogen peroxide-containing component are low-viscosity and, after mixing, are dispensed from a pump dispenser as a foam and applied to the keratin fibers. The agent contains 0.5-2.0% by weight of alkylamidopropyldimethylamine, 0.5-2.0% by weight of fatty alcohol ethoxylate, 0.5-1.5% by weight of C10-C24 fatty alcohol, 1-12% by weight of hydrogen peroxide, and water. The object of the present invention was to provide agents and methods for the oxidative lightening or coloring of keratin fibers that overcome the aforementioned disadvantages of the prior art.In particular, agents and methods for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers should be provided that immediately achieve a permanent, homogeneous wetting of the keratin fibers upon application and do not drip from the keratin fibers during the necessary exposure time. A further object of the present invention was to provide agents and methods for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers that cause as little damage as possible to the keratin fibers, either on the surface or within the fiber structure, during the oxidative treatment of the keratin fibers. After completion of the oxidative treatment, the keratin fibers should have a surface that is as smooth, soft, and well-groomed as possible. Furthermore, the selection of ingredients should ensure the highest possible biodegradability and the most sustainable origin possible.
[0007] It has now been found that oxidative treatment agents which serve as the second component of an oxidative color-changing agent for keratin fibers and which are mixed with a component containing at least one alkalizing agent and, optionally, a content of at least one substance selected from oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions, as well as mixtures thereof, before application to the keratin fibers and are applied directly thereafter to the keratin fibers, lead to significantly improved hair protection during the oxidative hair treatment without impairing the results of the oxidative coloring or bleaching treatment.
[0008] The present invention relates, in a first embodiment, to an oxidative treatment agent for keratinic fibers, in particular for human hair, containing, in each case based on its weight, a) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of the formula (I)
[0009] (I), where
[0010] R 1 represents a Cn - C25 alkyl radical which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the radicals R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each represent a methyl group, b) at least one linear, saturated 1-alkanol having a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, c) hydrogen peroxide, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 13 wt.%, further preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt.% and very particularly preferably 3 to 4.5 wt.% (calculated as 100% H2O2), and d) water, preferably in an amount of 20 to 95 wt.%, preferably 30 to 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 40 to 85 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, wherein the oxidative treatment agent has a pH in the range of 2.5 - 6.5, preferably in the range of 3 - 5.5, particularly preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0, each measured at 20°C.
[0011] Another object of the present invention is a process for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises the following process steps:
[0012] I. Providing an oxidative treatment agent (A) comprising a) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of the formula (I)
[0013] (I), where
[0014] R 1 represents a C11 - C25 alkyl radical which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the radicals R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each represent a methyl group, b) at least one linear, saturated 1-alkanol having a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, c) hydrogen peroxide, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 13 wt.%, further preferably 1 to
[0015] 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt.% and very particularly preferably 3 to 4.5 wt.% (calculated as 100% H2O2), and d) water, preferably in an amount of 20-95 wt.%, preferably 30-90 wt.%, particularly preferably 40 to 85 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, wherein the oxidative treatment agent has a pH in the range of 2.5-6.5, preferably in the range of 3-5.5, particularly preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C,
[0016] II. Providing a composition (B) comprising e) at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide, at least one alkanolamine selected from amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols and amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols, and sodium silicates, and mixtures thereof, f) optionally water and g) optionally at least one substance selected from oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions, and mixtures thereof, wherein the composition (B) preferably has a pH in the range from 6.5 to 12.0, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, particularly preferably 9.5 to 10.8, in each case measured at 20°C,
[0017] III. Mixing the compositions (A) and (B) with one another, wherein the weight ratio of (A) to (B) is preferably in the range from 10:1 to 1:4, preferably in the range from 5:1 to 1:3, particularly preferably in the range from 4:1 to 1:2, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 2:1 to 1:1, immediately thereafter
[0018] IV. Application of the mixture of (A) and (B) to the keratin fibers, in particular to the human hair, and
[0019] V. Rinse after an exposure time of 0.1 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes, extremely preferably 30 to 45 minutes,
[0020] VI. if necessary, further hair treatments such as styling, conditioning and / or drying.
[0021] Keratinic fibers, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers preferably include human hair, fur, wool and feathers.
[0022] According to the invention, “immediately thereafter” means a period of 1 to 600 seconds.
[0023] All information on the physical states of substances (solid, liquid, gaseous) in this application refers to standard conditions. "Standard conditions" for the purposes of this application are a temperature of 20°C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.
[0024] The abbreviation “ggf.” stands for “if necessary.”
[0025] A first obligatory component of the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention is at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (I)
[0026] (I), where
[0027] R 1 represents a Cn - C25 alkyl radical which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the radicals R 2 and R 3independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each represents a methyl group.
[0028] The at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (I) makes a significant contribution to reduced hair damage caused by the oxidative treatment agents according to the invention, particularly in conjunction with the mandatory component b). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture of the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.
[0029] Particularly preferred residues R 1 are selected from n-undecyl, n-tridecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-nonadecyl, and n-heneicosanyl, as well as mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred amidoalkylamines of the formula (I) are C12-C22-amido-n-propyldimethylamines.
[0030] Preferred oxidative treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, oleamidopropyldimethylamine, sunflower seed amidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0031] Particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine, cocamidopropyldimethylamine and brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine, in particular mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine with the INCI name brassicamidopropyldimethylamine. A particularly preferred mixture of amidoalkylamines of the formula (I) according to the invention comprises fatty acid moieties R 1 CO- with 20 or more carbon atoms in an amount of not more than 70 wt.%, preferably not more than 65 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the total fatty acid content R 1 CO- in the amidoalkylamine mixture.
[0032] Particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of the formula (I) is present in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the treatment agent.
[0033] A further obligatory component of the agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention is a content of at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount - based on the weight of the agent - of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%. Surprisingly, it has been found that linear 1-alkanols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 - 5.0 wt.% contribute significantly to the damage-reducing properties of the agent, particularly in conjunction with the obligatory component a). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture of the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.
[0034] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol (octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol), decan-1-ol (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol), dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), eicosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol), docosan-1-ol (docosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol), (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred agents are characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosan-1-ol, docosan-1-ol and mixtures thereof.Mixtures of hexadecan-1-ol and octadecan-1-ol are extremely preferred according to the invention.
[0035] hydrogen peroxide
[0036] The formation of pigments in oxidative dyes, or the breakdown of the hair's natural pigment melanin for bleaching, occurs only through the influence of a peroxide compound as an oxidizing agent. Hydrogen peroxide is typically used for this purpose. Hydrogen peroxide can only be used in the form of an aqueous solution.
[0037] Oxidative treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.5 to 13 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt.% and very particularly preferably 3 to 4.5 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2), in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention.
[0038] Bleaching agents or particularly strong lightening colorants may also contain highly oxidizing peroxide compounds, such as potassium, sodium, and / or ammonium persulfate. However, these persulfates are not inherently present in the oxidative treatment agents according to the invention, as they are not storage-stable. Instead, persulfates are stored separately in an anhydrous preparation until the moment the ready-to-use color-change agent is prepared.
[0039] Water
[0040] The oxidative treatment agents according to the invention contain water, preferably in an amount of 20 to 95 wt.%, preferably 30 to 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 40 to 85 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention. pH value
[0041] Oxidative treatment agents according to the invention have a pH value in the range of 2.5 - 6.5, preferably in the range of 3 - 5.5, particularly preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, to stabilize the hydrogen peroxide.
[0042] At these pH values, the obligatory component a), the non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (I), is present in profaned form, i.e. cationic.
[0043] Particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.0 - 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent.
[0044] Further particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 10 - 50 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, preferably selected from those having 10 -
[0045] 25 ethylene oxide units, preferably from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol ethoxylated with 12 - 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as mixtures of these ethoxylated 1-alkanols.
[0046] Additional nonionic surfactants preferred according to the invention are selected from addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units with divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, further selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated Ca-C24 alkanols with 10-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-C50 carboxylic acids ethoxylated with 20-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole, which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0047] Particularly preferred additional nonionic surfactants are selected from addition products of 6 to 12 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units onto divalent C10-16 alkane glycols, wherein preferred divalent C10-16 alkane glycols are selected from 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-undecanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol (lauryl glycol), 1,2-tridecanediol, 1,2-tetradecanediol, 1,2-pentadecanediol and 1,2-hexadecanediol and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from addition products of 6 to 12, preferably 8-9 ethylene oxide units and one to two propylene oxide units with 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-undecanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol (lauryl glycol), 1,2-tridecanediol, 1,2-tetradecanediol, 1,2-pentadecanediol or 1,2-hexadecanediol and mixtures thereof.A nonionic surfactant of this class which is extremely preferred according to the invention is PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, which is available, for example, under the trade name Eumulgin L from BASF.
[0048] The ethoxylated Ca-C24 alkanols preferably used according to the invention have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1stands for a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8 - 24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers from 10 - 100, preferably 10 - 30, particularly preferably 15 to 25 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidy l alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 10 - 100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.Particularly preferred are Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Laureth-100, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Myreth-100, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Ceteth-50, Ceteth-100, Steareth-10, Steareth-12 Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Steareth-50, Steareth-100, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Oleth-50, Gleth-100,Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-50, Ceteareth-100, and Coceth-10, Coceth-12, Coceth-15, Coceth-20, Coceth-30, Coceth-50, and Coceth-100. A particularly preferred nonionic surfactant of this class according to the invention is Steareth-100. Chelating agent.
[0049] The effect according to the invention can be surprisingly enhanced if the oxidative treatment agent contains at least one chelating agent. According to the invention, a chelating agent is understood to be a compound that forms chelates with calcium ions or magnesium ions in aqueous solution. According to the invention, chelates are understood to be cyclic compounds in which metal ions, further groups with lone electron pairs or electron vacancies, and further hydrogen participate in the ring formation.
[0050] Chelating agents preferred according to the invention have a molecular weight of 100 g / mol to 600 g / mol. Further chelating agents preferred according to the invention are selected from pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (dipicolinic acid), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid) and its sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, disodium pyrophosphate, beta-alaninediacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, aminotrimethylenephosphonic acid, diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonic acid, disodium azacycloheptanediphosphonate, disodium hydroxyethylaminobismethylphosphonate, disodium hydroxyethyliminodiacetate, hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA) and its sodium or potassium salts, pentapotassium triphosphate, pentasodium triphosphate, pentasodium aminotrimethylenephosphonate, pentasodium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, Pentasodium diethylenetriamine pentaacetate (Pentasodium Pentetate), Diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (Pentetic Acid),Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic acid, potassium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (potassium EDTMP), sodium ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate (sodium EDTMP), sodium diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (sodium DTPMP), sodium hexametaphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, tetrasodium dicarboxymethylaspartate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate, trisodium dicarboxymethylalaninate (trisodium MGDA, methylglycine diacetate trisodium salt), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (trisodium EDDS) and trisodium nitrilotriacetate as well as mixtures of these chelating agents.
[0051] Particularly preferred chelating agents according to the invention are selected from pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid (dipicolinic acid), 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, etidronic acid) and their sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, disodium pyrophosphate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their potassium and ammonium salts, pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate (pentasodium pentetate), tetrasodium pyrophosphate, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (trisodium EDDS), trisodium dicarboxymethylalaninate (trisodium MGDA) and mixtures of these chelating agents.
[0052] Particularly preferred oxidative treatment agents according to the invention contain at least one chelating agent in a total amount of 0.01 - 2.5 wt.%, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.2 - 0.6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent.
[0053] The oxidative treatment agents according to the invention can be applied directly to the keratin fibers to be treated, in particular to human hair, without adding any further composition. This type of application is particularly suitable for achieving a slight lightening or bleaching of the keratin fibers and / or preserving the lightening effect of a previous bleaching for a longer period. However, to achieve a stronger lightening or bleaching effect, the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention must be adjusted to a pH in the range of 6.5 to 12 (measured at 20°C) by adding an alkalizing agent. Since alkaline hydrogen peroxide solutions are not storage-stable, the alkalizing agent is added only shortly before application to the keratin fibers.This alkalizing agent, hereinafter referred to as composition (B), may be solid, in particular powder form, but also liquid (0 to 500 mPas at 20°C), medium viscosity (> 400 to 4000 mPas at 20°C) or cream or paste form (> 4000 to 4,000,000 mPas at 20°C).
[0054] If the composition (B) is in powder form, it is preferred according to the invention that it contains at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions.
[0055] Preferably, the at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions is selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, mixtures of these salts, sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate and mixtures of at least one salt of a peroxosulfuric acid and an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate and mixtures thereof.
[0056] Peroxosulfuric acids include peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid).
[0057] According to the invention, the at least one inorganic salt of a peroxosulfuric acid is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. Particular preference is given to potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, as well as mixtures thereof. Furthermore, it has proven particularly preferred in the work on the present invention if the anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent (B) according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures.Particularly preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate, and extremely preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate. Particularly preferred mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate (KPS) and ammonium peroxodisulfate (APS) according to the invention, which are free of sodium peroxodisulfate, are those with a KPS / APS weight ratio in the range of 4:1-2:1, preferably 3.5:1-2.5:1, particularly preferably 3.2:1-2.8:1.
[0058] Preferred anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agents (B) according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5-85% by weight, preferably 10-70% by weight, particularly preferably 17-55% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 22-45% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (B).
[0059] Oxidative hair treatment agents (B) preferred according to the invention are anhydrous, which in the sense of the present invention means that they contain, in each case based on their weight, 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water.
[0060] This information refers to the free water content. The content of molecularly bound water or water of crystallization, which individual powder components may contain, is not taken into account. The water content can be determined, for example, using Karl Fischer titration based on ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).
[0061] The alkalizing agent-containing composition (B) can be either anhydrous or water-containing. If the mixture of the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention and the alkalizing agent-containing composition (B) is intended for lightening or bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human hair, the composition (B) typically does not contain any oxidation dye precursors. However, it is possible for it to contain certain direct dyes that compensate for an undesirable red or orange tint of the melanin degradation products. This technology is disclosed, for example, in WO2002074270A1 or EP 2306963A1.
[0062] Alkalizing agent for composition (B)
[0063] The compositions (B) suitable for combination with the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention contain at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide, at least one alkanolamine selected from amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols and amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols, and sodium silicates and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols preferred according to the invention include, in particular, monoethanolamine. The amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols preferred according to the invention include, in particular, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, 2-aminopropan-1-ol, 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (MIPA), and 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propan-1,3-diol (TRIS), with monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol being particularly preferred.
[0065] In order to achieve the desired permanent coloring or lightening of the keratinic fibers, the composition (B) which is mixed with the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention to form the ready-to-use coloring or lightening agent must have a pH in the range from 6.5 to 11.0, preferably 8 to 10.5, particularly preferably 8.5 to 10, in each case measured at 20°C. Furthermore, it is important for the coloring or lightening result that the ready-to-use coloring or lightening agent obtained by mixing the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention with the composition (B) has a pH in the range from 6.5 to 11.0, preferably 8 to 10.5, particularly preferably 8.5 to 9.5, in each case measured at 20°C. At these pH values, the outer keratin fiber layer opens optimally to absorb the oxidation dye precursors and / or the oxidative effect of hydrogen peroxide and possibly other peroxide compounds unfolds optimally.
[0066] Ammonia is preferably used in the form of its aqueous solution. Corresponding aqueous ammonia solutions can be 10 to 35 percent solutions (calculated in wt. %, 100 g of aqueous ammonia solution accordingly contain 10 to 35 g of ammonia). Ammonia is preferably used in the form of a 20 to 30 wt. % solution, particularly preferably in the form of a 25 wt. % solution. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition (B) used according to the invention is characterized in that it contains ammonium hydroxide in an amount of 0.20 to 18.0 wt. %, preferably 1.0 to 15 wt. %, more preferably 2.0 to 12.0 wt. % and particularly preferably 3.0 to 9 wt. % - based on the weight of the composition (B) used according to the invention.
[0067] In addition to or instead of ammonium hydroxide, preferred compositions (B) used according to the invention contain at least one alkanolamine selected from amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols and amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols and mixtures thereof.
[0068] In order to achieve maximum odor coverage and to optimize the authenticity properties, the at least one alkanolamine selected from amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols and amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols is present in a total amount of 0.2 - 9.0 wt.%, preferably 1.0 - 7 wt.%, more preferably 2.0 to 6.0 wt.% and particularly preferably 3.0 to 5.5 wt.% - based on the weight of the composition (B) used according to the invention.
[0069] Sodium silicates, as defined in the present invention, are chemical compounds composed of sodium oxide and silicon dioxide, which can occur in various molar ratios (monosilicate, metasilicate, and polysilicate). An example of a sodium silicate is the sodium salt of orthosilicic acid with the molecular formula Na4SiO4, which is also referred to as sodium orthosilicate.
[0070] Further examples of suitable sodium silicates are disodium metasilicate or sodium metasilicate with the molecular formula Na2SiO3, disodium disilicate with the molecular formula Na2Si2O5 or disodium trisilicate with the molecular formula Na2Si3O?
[0071] Amorphous silicates can be produced by melting silicon dioxide and alkali oxide in molar ratios between 1:1 and 4:1. The resulting solids are dissolved at approximately 150 °C and 5 bar vapor pressure to obtain a solution of the sodium silicates in water. These solutions are alkali water glasses.
[0072] Alkali water glasses are glassy (amorphous) sodium silicates or their aqueous solutions that solidify from a melt. These are also called soda water glasses. Soda water glasses are also included in the definition of sodium silicates within this invention.
[0073] The molar composition of water glasses is usually 2 to 4 mol SiO2 to 1 mol alkali oxide (Na2O).
[0074] An example of a preferred sodium silicate is sodium silicate, which is in the form of its aqueous solution, has a Na2O content of 7.5 to 8.8 wt% and a SiO2 content of 25.0 to 28.5 wt% and has the CAS No. 1344-09-5 (Chemical Abstracts Number).
[0075] Further compositions (B) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one sodium silicate in a total amount of 0.1 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 1 to 7.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (B) used according to the invention.
[0076] Furthermore, other alkalizing agents, such as potassium hydroxide (KOH) and sodium hydroxide (NaOH), may be present, usually in a total amount of 0.05 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 0.6 wt.%, based in each case on the weight of the composition (B) used in the invention. If the mixture of the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention and the alkalizing agent-containing composition (B) is intended for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, the composition (B) contains at least one oxidation dye precursor to form the dyes.
[0077] Oxidation dye precursors include developer-type and coupler-type oxidation dye precursors.Particularly suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are selected from at least one compound from the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-Amino-2-(diethyl-aminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-.
[0078] 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1 H,5H-pyrazolo[1 ,2- a]pyrazol-1-one and their physiologically acceptable salts.
[0079] Particularly suitable oxidation dye precursors of the coupler type are selected from the group 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 6-aminobenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane,
[0080] 2.6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}- amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2- Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3- Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin,
[0081] 2-Methylresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 1 ,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methyl- amino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin, 1-Phenyl-
[0082] 3-methylpyrazol-5-on, 1-Naphthol, 1 ,5-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,7-Dihydroxy- naphthalin, 1 ,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol, 7-Hydroxyindol, 4-Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin, 7-Hydroxyindolin oder Gemischen dieser Verbindungen oder deren physiologisch verträglichen Salzen.
[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions (B) used according to the invention contain one or more oxidation dye precursors in a total amount of 0.01 to 30.0 wt.%, preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt.%, more preferably from 0.6 to 3.1 wt.% and most preferably from 1.2 to 2.2 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition (B) used according to the invention.
[0084] In a further preferred embodiment, the oxidative treatment agents according to the invention or the compositions (B) used according to the invention additionally contain at least one further direct dye. Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic, and nonionic direct dyes. The direct dyes are preferably selected from nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes, or indophenols and their physiologically acceptable salts. The direct dyes are each preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 2 wt. %, based on the weight of the composition (B) used according to the invention or based on the weight of the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention.Direct dyes are used in oxidative colorants to nuance the achieved color tone, and in oxidative bleaching agents to balance out unwanted red tones that can arise when the hair's own melanin is broken down.
[0085] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue.
[0086] Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B) and substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51. The cationic substantive dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
[0087] Non-ionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes are particularly suitable as non-ionic direct dyes. Preferred non-ionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 7, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophe- nol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzene, 1 - Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1 -(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4- nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid,4-[(3-Hydroxypropyl)amino]-3-nitrophenol, 4-Nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 6-Nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-Chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
[0088] A further subject of the present invention is a method for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an oxidative treatment agent is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular to the human hair, and optionally rinsed out again after a contact time of 0.1 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 30 to 45 minutes, wherein this treatment agent a) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of the formula (I)
[0089] (I), where
[0090] R 1represents a Cn - C25 alkyl radical which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the radicals R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each represent a methyl group, b) at least one linear, saturated 1-alkanol having a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, c) hydrogen peroxide, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 13 wt.%, further preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt.% and very particularly preferably 3 to 4.5 wt.% (calculated as 100% H2O2), and d) water, preferably in an amount of 20 to 95 wt.%, preferably 30 to 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 40 to 85 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, wherein the oxidative treatment agent has a pH in the range of 2.5 - 6.5, preferably in the range of 3 - 5.5, particularly preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0, each measured at 20°C.
[0091] For the process according to the invention for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and its preferred embodiments, what has been said regarding the oxidative treatment agents according to the invention and those preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0092] The method according to the invention for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, can optionally be followed by further hair treatment steps, for example the application of a conditioner, a hair shaping agent, for example a straightening agent or a waving agent, another hair coloring agent, for example for coloring or bleaching highlights, rinsing steps and drying steps, for example rubbing or pressing dry with a towel, blow-drying or drying with a hair dryer.
[0093] Mixing ratios of oxidative treatment agent according to the invention and composition (B) It has proven useful according to the invention if the weight ratio of oxidative treatment agent according to the invention to composition (B), comprising at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide, at least one alkanolamine selected from amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols and amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols, and sodium silicates and mixtures thereof, optionally water and optionally at least one substance selected from oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions and mixtures thereof, is in the range from 10:1 to 1:4, preferably 5:1 to 1:3, particularly preferably 4:1 to 1:2, extraordinarily preferably 2:1 to 1:1.
[0094] For the process according to the invention for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with the compositions (A) and (B) mentioned at least two above and its preferred embodiments, what has been said regarding the oxidative treatment agents according to the invention and preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0095] Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention that the oxidative treatment agent according to the invention is not applied as a foam. Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention that in the oxidative treatment methods according to the invention, neither the oxidative treatment agent according to any of claims 1-6 nor the compositions (A) or (B) are applied as a foam.
[0096] Examples
[0097] The following examples of oxidative treatment agents according to the invention are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting it thereto.
[0098] Table 1: Oxidative treatment agent (developer, developer emulsion) for oxidative hair dyes and bleaching agents (all quantities in wt.%)
[0099] Table 2: Coloring creams (all quantities in wt.%)
[0100] Color creams 1 and 2 according to Table 2 correspond to the compositions (B) presented in the description. They were each mixed in a 1:1 weight ratio with one of the oxidative treatment agents A-1 (according to the invention) or A-2 (comparative developer) from Table 1 to form a spreadable cream, which was then immediately applied to human hair strands and rinsed out with water and shampoo after a contact time of 45 minutes. The hair was then dried first with a towel and then with a hairdryer.
[0101] The application mixtures obtained with the inventive developer A-1 remained on the hair throughout the entire application time without dripping. Homogeneous coloring results were achieved (color difference between hair roots and hair lengths: dE = 3.42 for coloring cream 1, dE = 2.52 for coloring cream 2).
[0102] The application mixtures obtained with the comparison developer A-2 were thin creams that noticeably dripped from the hair after only 5 minutes of application. Inhomogeneous coloring results were achieved (color difference between hair roots and hair lengths: dE = 6.31 for coloring cream 1, dE = 5.19 for coloring cream 2).
[0103] Table 3: Bleaching powder (powder composition (B))
[0104] To prepare the ready-to-use bleaching agent, 2 parts by weight of an oxidative treatment agent A-1 or A-2 from Table 1 were mixed with 1 part by weight of the bleaching powder according to Table 3. The mixture was then immediately applied to human hair strands. After a contact time of 50 minutes, the mixture was rinsed out with water and shampoo. The hair was then dried first with a towel and then with a hairdryer.
[0105] The application mixture obtained with the inventive developer A-1 remained on the hair throughout the entire exposure time without dripping. A more homogeneous lightening result was achieved (color difference between hair roots and hair lengths: dE = 2.05 versus dE = 7.8 with the comparison developer). The overall lightening was also greater (dL = 45.3) than that achieved with the comparison developer A-2 (dL = 31.7).
[0106] The application mixture obtained with the comparison developer A-2 was a thin cream that noticeably dripped from the hair shortly after application.
[0107] The hair strands treated according to the invention showed less dry combing work than the hair strands treated in the same way, thus having a smoother, less damaged surface.
Claims
Patent claims 1. An oxidative treatment agent for keratin fibers, in particular for human hair, containing, in each case based on its weight, a) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of the formula (I) (I), where R 1 represents a Cn - C25 alkyl radical which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the radicals R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each represent a methyl group, b) at least one linear, saturated 1-alkanol having a hydroxyl group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, c) hydrogen peroxide, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 13 wt.%, further preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt.% and very particularly preferably 3 to 4.5 wt.% (calculated as 100% H2O2), and d) water, preferably in an amount of 20 to 95 wt.%, preferably 30 to 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 40 to 85 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, wherein the oxidative treatment agent has a pH in the range of 2.5 - 6.5, preferably in the range of 3 - 5.5, particularly preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0, each measured at 20°C.
2. Oxidative treatment agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyldimethylamine and cocamidopropyldimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
3. Oxidative treatment agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of the formula (I) is present in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt. %, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt. %, particularly preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt. %, in each case based on the weight of the treatment agent.
4. Oxidative treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol, decan-1-ol, dodecan-1-ol, tetradecan-1-ol, hexadecan-1-ol, octadecan-1-ol, eicosane-1-ol, docosane- 1-ol, (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol and mixtures thereof.
5. Oxidative treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that at least one non-ionic surfactant is further contained in a total amount of 0.1 - 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.3 - 2.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.0 - 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent.
6. Oxidative treatment agent according to claim 5, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from ethoxylated 1-alkanols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 10 - 50 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, preferably selected from lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol ethoxylated with 10 - 25 ethylene oxide units, preferably with 12 - 20 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures of these ethoxylated 1-alkanols.
7. A method for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which an oxidative treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 6 is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular to the human hair, and optionally rinsed out again after a contact time of 0.1 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes, extremely preferably 30 to 45 minutes.
8. A process for the oxidative coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following process steps: I. Providing an oxidative treatment agent (A) according to any one of claims 1-6, comprising a) at least one compound selected from non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of the formula (I) (I), where R 1 represents a Cn - C25 alkyl radical which may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, the radicals R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each represent a methyl group, b) at least one linear, saturated 1-alkanol having a hydroxy group and 8 to 40 carbon atoms in a total amount of 1.6 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.5 to 3.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.9 to 3.4 wt.%, c) hydrogen peroxide, preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 13 wt.%, further preferably 1 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 2 to 6 wt.% and very particularly preferably 3 to 4.5 wt.% (calculated as 100% H2O2), and d) water, preferably in an amount of 20-95 wt.%, preferably 30-90 wt.%, particularly preferably 40 to 85 wt.%, extremely preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, wherein the oxidative treatment agent has a pH in the range of 2.5-6.5, preferably in the range of 3-5.5, particularly preferably in the range of 3.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C, II. Providing a composition (B) comprising e) at least one alkalizing agent selected from ammonium hydroxide, at least one alkanolamine selected from amino-Ci-Ce-alkanols and amino-Ci-Ce-alkanediols, and sodium silicates, and mixtures thereof, f) optionally water and g) optionally at least one substance selected from oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions, and mixtures thereof, wherein the composition (B) preferably has a pH in the range from 6.5 to 12.0, preferably 8.5 to 11.5, particularly preferably 9.5 to 10.8, in each case measured at 20°C, III. Mixing the compositions (A) and (B) with one another, wherein the weight ratio of (A) to (B) is preferably in the range from 10:1 to 1:4, preferably in the range from 5:1 to 1:3, particularly preferably in the range from 4:1 to 1:2, extraordinarily preferably in the range from 2:1 to 1:1, immediately thereafter IV. Applying the mixture of (A) and (B) to the keratin fibers, in particular to the human hair, and V. Rinse after a contact time of 0.1 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 50 minutes, particularly preferably 10 to 45 minutes, extremely preferably 30 to 45 minutes, VI. if necessary, further hair treatments such as styling, conditioning and / or drying.
9. Process according to claim 8, characterized in that the composition (B) is anhydrous and contains at least one oxidizing agent which is solid under normal conditions.
10. Process according to one of claims 7-9, characterized in that neither the oxidative treatment agent according to one of claims 1-6 nor the compositions (A) or (B) are applied as a foam.
Citation Information
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