Coacervate cleansing compositions

Abstract

A cleansing composition enhances deposition of actives onto the skin, such as mineral particles and acne treatment actives. The composition includes at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least one glycolipid, at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight of the composition, and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. The cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

Description

COACERVATE CLEANSING COMPOSITIONSCROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED FIELDS

[0001] The present application claims priority from U.S. Non-Provisional Application No. 18 / 525,456 filed November 30, 2023, French Application No. 2400596 filed January 22, 2024, U.S. Non-Provisional Application No. 18 / 640,421 filed April 19, 2024, French Application No. 2406108 filed June 10, 2024, U.S. Non-Provisional Application No. 18 / 756,678 filed June 27, 2024 and French Application No. 2409066 filed August 23, 2024 the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.TECHNICAL FIELD

[0002] The present disclosure is directed to a skincare composition, in particular, a coacervate cleansing composition. The present disclosure is also directed to a coacervate cleansing composition containing at least one acne treatment active or at least one mineral particle.BACKGROUND

[0003] Current skincare routines usually require multiple steps and multiple products to achieve desired skincare results. Typical skincare routines usually include a skin cleansing step followed by another product to impart various skin benefits such as hydration, anti-aging, or anti-acne. Common skin cleansing products usually rely on surfactants to provide cleansing and do not deposit skincare actives onto the skin.

[0004] There is a need in the market for skin cleansing compositions to provide enhanced deposition of skincare actives. As such, consumers desire new and improved skin cleansing compositions that can cleanse the skin and also provide skincare benefits more efficiently.

[0005] There is a need in the market for skin cleansing compositions to provide enhanced deposition of mineral particles. As such, consumers desire new and improved skin cleansing compositions that can cleanse the skin and also deposit one or more of mineral particles for brightening or sun protection purposes and active ingredients for anti-acne purposes, and combinations of these.SUMMARY

[0006] In various embodiments the disclosure provides a composition comprising a coacervate cleansing system that includes amphoteric surfactants and glycolipids (generally referred to herein as glycolipids), cationic polymer, and cosmetic solvent, wherein in the various embodiments the coacervate cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of thecomposition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0007] In some embodiments the composition is a coacervate cleansing system that includes amphoteric surfactants and glycolipids, cationic polymer, and cosmetic solvent, and further includes at least one mineral particle.

[0008] In some embodiments the composition is a coacervate cleansing system that includes amphoteric surfactants and glycolipids, cationic polymer, and cosmetic solvent, and further includes at least one acne treatment active.

[0009] In some embodiments the composition is a coacervate cleansing system that includes amphoteric surfactants and glycolipids, cationic polymer, and cosmetic solvent, and further includes at least one mineral particle, at least one acne treatment active, or a mixture thereof.

[0010] In various embodiments, provided is a coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight; and(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0011] In various embodiments, provided is a coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight;(d) at least one mineral particle; and(e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0012] In various, provided is a coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight;(d) at least one acne treatment active; and(e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0013] The coacervate cleansing systems can contain at least one acne treatment active, at least one mineral particle, or combinations thereof.

[0014] In various embodiments, provided is a coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight;(d) at least one mineral particle, at least one acne treatment active, or a mixture thereof; and(e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

[0015] The coacervate system described in this invention is a unique phenomenon that demonstrates enhanced stability which is beneficial when cleansing the skin. The coacervate phenomenon is demonstrated through the phase transition of the system wherein the coacervate system initially appears clear, but then becomes cloudy upon dilution with water. This coacervate cleansing system provides a unique cleansing experience marked by enhanced foaming properties and good stability. It has surprisingly been found that embodiments of the inventive composition with a specific ratio of glycolipids to amphoteric surfactants demonstrate the coacervate phenomenon.

[0016] The glycolipids in this invention can be used for cleansing purposes, but also have antimicrobial properties. The coacervate cleansing system described has unique physical characteristics, and transitions into a foaming state when diluted with water which could enhance deposition of skincare actives onto the skin, such as acne treatment actives and mineral particles.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0017] Figure 1. Coacervate cleansing system compositions A-D before dilution.

[0018] Figure 2. Coacervate cleansing system compositions A-D after dilution with water.

[0019] Figure 3. Inventive Coacervate cleansing system containing TiO2 composition 19 as described in the examples herein before being rinsed off.

[0020] Figure 4. Inventive Coacervate cleaning system containing TiO2 composition 19 as described in the examples herein after being rinsed off.

[0021] Figure 5. Non-inventive composition 20 as described in the examples herein after being rinsed off.

[0022] Figure 6. Non-inventive composition 21 as described in the examples herein after being rinsed off.

[0023] Figure 7. Inventive Coacervate cleansing system containing salicylic acid composition 22 as described in the examples herein before being rinsed off and dyed with ferric chloride.

[0024] Figure 8. Inventive Coacervate cleaning system containing salicylic acid composition 22 as described in the examples herein after being rinsed off and dyed with ferric chloride.

[0025] Figure 9. Non-inventive composition 23 as described in the examples herein after being rinsed off and dyed with ferric chloride.

[0026] Figure 10. Non-inventive composition 24 as described in the examples herein after being rinsed off and dyed with ferric chloride.

[0027] It is to be understood that the foregoing and following descriptions are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not intended to be restrictive of any subject matter claimed.DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0028] The disclosure relates to coacervate cleansing compositions. The disclosure also relates to compositions for depositing mineral particles to the skin during skin cleansing. The disclosure also relates to compositions for depositing acne treatment actives to the skin during skin cleansing.

[0029] The coacervate cleansing system is clear until combined with water, wherein the composition becomes cloudy as a result of phase separation. As used herein “Stable” and“Stability” mean that the coacervate cleansing composition remains clear until combined with water, and does not show any signs of significant changes in one or more of color, odor, pH, viscosity or formation of precipitates at room temperature as evidenced by one or both of unaided visual or microscopic inspection. A composition is not stable if it forms precipitates upon combination with water, as shown in the examples herein.

[0030] I. Compositions

[0031] Amphoteric Surfactants:

[0032] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant (or zwitterionic surfactant). In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition may include or excludes any one or more of nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition includes a combination of amphoteric surfactants.

[0033] In some embodiments, the at least one amphoteric surfactant may include alkyl betaine, alkylamidopropyl betaine, alkyl hydroxysultaine, alkylamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, alkylamidopropylamine N-oxide, alkyldimethylamine N-oxide, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, or a combination thereof. In preferred embodiments, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine and coco betaine.

[0034] In some embodiments the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be selected from, for example, betaines, alkyl sultaines, alkyl amphoacetates and alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphoproprionates, amphocarboxylates, alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, amphophosphates, phosphobetaines, pyrophosphobetaines, carboxyalkyl polyamines, amidoalkyl sultaines, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.

[0035] Betaines which can be used in the current compositions include those having the formulas below:

[0036] WhereinR10is an alkyl group having 8-10 carbon atoms; andN is an integer from 1 to 3.

[0037] Particularly useful betaines include, for example, cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Hydroxy sultaines useful in the compositions of the invention include the following

[0039] Wherein

[0040] R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.

[0041] More specific examples include, but are not limited to cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, or mixtures thereof.

[0042] Useful alkylamphoacetates include those having the formula

[0043] Wherein

[0044] R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.

[0045] Useful alkyl amphodiacetates include those having the formula Q .11 ~ O Na

[0046] Wherein

[0047] R is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms.

[0048] Exemplary and non-limiting examples of useful alkyl amphopropionates include cocoamphopropionate, caprylamphopropionate, cornamphopropionate, caproampho-propionate, oleoamphopropionate, isostearoamphopropionate, stearoamphopropionate, lauroamphopropionate, salts thereof, or mixtures thereof.

[0049] The at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present disclosure may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. In preferred embodiments, the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco betaine, or mixtures thereof.

[0050] The total concentration of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one glycolipid is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio ofthe at least one amphoteric surfactant to the at least one glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4. The at least one amphoteric surfactant may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, for example, in a range for example from about 3% to about 8%, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.

[0051] For example, the at least one amphoteric surfactant can be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition according to the disclosure from about 3% to about 8%, or from about 3% to about 7%, or from about 3% to about 6%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or from about 3% to about 4%, or from about 3% to about 8%, or from about 4% to about 8%, or from about 5% to about 8%, or from about 6% to about 8%, or from about 7% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.Glycolipids:

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more glycolipids.

[0053] The term “glycolipid” is understood as meaning a compound formed from a lipid to which are attached one or more sugar compounds.

[0054] The one or more glycolipids may be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, and mixtures thereof.Glucolipids:

[0055] The one or more glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (I):

[0057] in which:

[0058] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0059] - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and

[0060] - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0061] The glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0062] The appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a di chloromethane: methanol or chlorofornrmethanol mixtureSophorolipids:

[0063] The one or more glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and can be represented by the general formula (II):

[0064]

[0065] In which:

[0066] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0067] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl,

[0068] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms in the groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0069] Sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the form of the open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III):

[0070]

[0071] in which:

[0072] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0073] with the proviso that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0074] The sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0075] Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P.A. J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and of sophorolipid lactones that may be used in the form of mixtures, or the required form may be isolated.

[0076] It is possible to use as sophorolipids for example that sold under the Sopholiance S name by Givaudan and that sold under the BioToLife name by BASF.Trehalolipids

[0077] The one or more glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (IV):

[0079] In which:

[0080] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or nonhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0081] The trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Appropriate fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.Cellobiose lipids

[0082] The one or more glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fragment and can be represented by the general formula (V):

[0084] in which:

[0085] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0086] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0087] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or a acetyl group;

[0088] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0089] The cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Appropriate fermentation processes are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757- 762.Rhamnolipids:

[0090] The one or more glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

[0091] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0092] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or of two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of 0-hydroxylated fatty acids linked to one another by an ester bond.

[0093] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI):

[0095] in which:

[0096] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0097] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0098] - R1 and R2, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical.

[0099] Thus, when n is equal to 0, the formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0100] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di- rhamnolipid.

[0101] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di- rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0102] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0103] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and

[0104] - R1 and R2, each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, that are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a singly, doubly or triply unsaturated alkyl radical, and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0105] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.

[0106] In the context of the invention,

[0107] - the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly the carboxylate salts thereof with an organic or inorganic cation and especially with a cation selected from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0108] - the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or of organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids preferably being in the form of the R enantiomers, and

[0109] - the term “alkyl” radical denotes a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl.

[0110] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0111] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0112] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ; and

[0113] - R1 and R2, which are identical or different, are selected from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals and radicals of formula - (CH2)oCH3, with o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0114] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1

[0115] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0116] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0117] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):

[0119] in which:

[0120] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

[0121] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 ,

[0122] - R1 is a -(CH2)p-CH3 radical, with p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,

[0123] - R2 is a -(CH2)q-CH3 radical, with q being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,

[0124] and also the salts thereof, solvates thereof and optical isomers thereof.

[0125] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) that may be suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds of formula di- RL-CXCY, such as are defined in Table 1 below.

[0126] The formula di-RL-CXCY is an alternative way of writing in order to represent a di- rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals R1 and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0127] Table 1 - di-rhamnolipids of Formula (VII)

[0128] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also referred to as di-RL-ClOClO, or one of the salts, solvates and optical isomers thereof.

[0129] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably of from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0130] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0131] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula(VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a - (CH2)oCH3 radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from thepentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0132] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from:

[0133] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 ;

[0134] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0135] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)oCH3 radical, with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0136] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) selected from:

[0137] -at least 50% by weight and preferably of from 51% to 85% by weight of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0138] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1 , relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and

[0139] - from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R1 represents a -(CH2)6CH3 radical and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0140] As specified above, rhamnolipids are customarily prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art starting from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0141] Appropriate fermentation methods are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H.P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R.M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0142] Use may be made, as rhamnolipid, of the one sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name : glycolipids).

[0143] In preferred embodiments, the at least one glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, or mixtures thereof.

[0144] The total concentration of the at least one amphoteric surfactant and the at least one glycolipid is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition. The weight ratio of the at least one amphoteric surfactant to the at least one glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4. The at least one glycolipid may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, for example, in a range from about 3% to about 7%, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.

[0145] For example, the at least one glycolipid may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition according to the disclosure from about from about 3% to about 7%, or from about 3% to about 6%, or from about 3% to about 5%, or from about 3% to about 4%, or from about 3% to about 7%, or from about 4% to about 7%, or from about 5% to about 7%, or from about 6% to about 7%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.Cationic Polymer;

[0146] In the various embodiments, the cosmetic cleansing composition comprises at least one cationic polymer selected from nature-based polymers that are polysaccharides, and other natural (i.e., plant, animal, or bacterial based), synthetic, or modified cationic nature-based or synthetic polymers.

[0147] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a nature-based polymer. In general, a cationic nature-based polymer may be selected from cationic forms and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms, and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides.

[0148] In some embodiments, cationic nature-based polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides that include chitosan, chitin, starches, alginates, celluloses, galactomannans such as guar gums, particularly cationic derivatives thereof, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the at least one cationic nature-based polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from chitosan, chitosan derivatives, chitin, starch, starch derivatives, cellulose (for example, but not limited to, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, hemicellulose,and hemicellulose derivatives), alginates, including but not limited to, sodium alginate, and combinations thereof.

[0149] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thiogly colic acid, or a mixture thereof.

[0150] In preferred embodiments, the at least one cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, polylysine, or combinations thereof.Chitosan:

[0151] The composition according to the invention comprises from about 0.05% by weight to about 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition of at least one native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Dalton (3 kDa) (1 Da = 1 g / mol).

[0152] Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0153] Chitosan is not widely found in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, namely zygomycetes.

[0154] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units interlinked by a [3-(l ,4) type bond.

[0155] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of P-D-glucosamine monomers linked by a glycoside (1 — 4) bond.

[0156] According to the invention, "chitosan" means any copolymer formed from N-acetyl-D- glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D- glucosamine units (acetylated units) interlinked by 0 (1,4) type bonds and represents a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0157] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0158] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or titration with a strong base.

[0159] The chitosan of the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. It is in particular extracted and purified from safe and abundant food-grade or biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0160] The chitosan of the invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of a fungus of the Ascomycete type, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0161] The chitosan can be of GMO origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0162] The chitosan according to the invention is native, i.e., it is not modified. In particular, it has not undergone any chemical modification.

[0163] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in the application WO03068824.

[0164] Preferably, the chitosan used in the invention is in powder form. It is in particular marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0165] The chitosan is preferably present in a quantity ranging from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.Polylysine

[0166] According to the present invention, the cationic polymer may be selected from polylysines. A single type of polylysines may be used, or two or more different types of polylysines may be used in combination.

[0167] Polylysines correspond to the condensation of several amino acids of lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte which is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0168] Polylysine can be, for example, epsilon-polylysine (or referred as “s-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the s-position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or alphapolylysine (or referred as “a-polylysine”), which is a condensation of amino groups at the a-position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. The polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine.

[0169] As an example of polylysine, mention may be made of:

[0170] - Epsilon-poly-L-lysine of JNC CORPORATION which is a 25% solution of Epsilon-poly- L-lysine having a molecular weight of around 4,700 in aqueous solution.

[0171] The polylysine may be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. The addition salts with an acid are, for example, the hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulphonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid salts; or fatty acid salts, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18- methylicosanoic acid. The addition salts with a base are, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, N-methylglucamine, aminopropane diol or triethanolamine.

[0172] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present in a form of a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bound to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the poly lysine is not covalently bound to dye compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bound to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term “polyorganosiloxane” is well- known in the art to mean compounds having Si-0 main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain.

[0173] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in the free form. The term “free form” here indicates that the poly lysine is not covalently bound to any other compounds.

[0174] The polylysine is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition according to the disclosure from about 0.05% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0175] Thus, one or a combination of polymers may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2,0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, to about 2 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.

[0176] In other embodiments, cationic nature-based polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from one or more of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, fructosans such as inulin, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, agars, glycosaminoglycans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin such as scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0177] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is not a nature-based polymer and may be selected from synthetic polymers. In some examples, the synthetic polymers are non-silicone based, and in some embodiments may be selected from the group consisting of polyquaterniums, that is polymers having quaternary ammonium centers in the polymer, for example, including polyquaternium-47 (1 -Propanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-l -oxo~2~propenyl)amino]- , chloride, polymer with methyl 2-propenoate and 2-propenoic acid). Other non-limiting examples of such polyquaternium compounds may be selected from diallyidimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22); the copolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, of acrylic acid and or methyl acrylate, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 200 IN POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47); the acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER OR MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name:: Polyquaternium-39); an ampholytic terpolymer consisting of methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name:: Polyquaternium-53); Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57;Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquaternium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquaternium-89; Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98, Polyquaternium-104; Polyquaternium-111; Poly quaternium- 112, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a synthetic polymer selected from cationic acrylic polymers, for example, an amorphous functional acrylic polymer grafted onto a polyethylene backbone such as SYNTRAN (TM) 5330, which is a quaternary modified olefin grafted technology. More generally, such synthetic polymers selected from, but are not limited to, cationic polymers comprising polyacrylates such as those identified in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 th ed. 2002) such as, for example, polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate- 16, polyacrylate- 17, polyacrylate- 18, polyacrylate-19, polyacrylate- 21, and mixtures thereof. Such (co)polymers, or similar (co)polymers, can be combined individually or with other (co)polymers in such a way to form suitable bimodal agents having both cationic and anionic functionalities.

[0178] In the various embodiments, the amount of cationic polymer is not a nature-based polymer and is selected from synthetic cationic polymers that may be present in the cosmetic cleansing composition can range from about 0.05% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.

[0179] Thus, any one of the at least synthetic cationic polymer, when present, is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, to about 2 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.

[0180] In the various embodiments, the amount of each of the at least one cationic polymer which may be either nature-based or synthetic cationic polymer, alone or in combination with another cationic polymer, present in the cosmetic cleansing compositions can range from about 0.05% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.05% to about 1%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.2% or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition. One of ordinary skill in the art, however, will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.

[0181] Compositions according to the disclosure contain at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. In various embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvent may be chosen from water.

[0182] Cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the disclosure are essentially free of phenoxyethanol.

[0183] In various embodiments, the compositions have a pH from about 4 to about 8. For example, the pH of the compositions may range from about 4.5 to about 7.5, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0184] Mineral UV Filters

[0185] In various embodiments, the composition comprises one or a combination of mineral UV filters. The mineral UV filter used for the present disclosure may be active in the UV-A and / or UV-B region. The mineral UV filter may be hydrophilic and / or lipophilic.

[0186] In preferred embodiments, the mineral UV filter is in the form of a fine particle such that the mean (primary) particle diameter thereof ranges from 1 nm to 150 nm, and in some embodiments 5 nm to 40 nm, and in some embodiments 10 nm to 30 nm. The mean (primary) particle size or mean (primary) particle diameter herein is an arithmetic mean diameter. In some embodiments, a particle may have a diameter that is has a mean particle size that is about or less than about 1 micron, or that is about or less than about 200 nm, or that is about or less than about 100 nm (sometimes referred to nanoscale). It will be understood by one of ordinary skill in the art that a particle that is referred to as nano scale for purposes of cosmetic applications according to this disclosure will have a mean particle size that is less than about 100 nm unless specifically identified otherwise, for example as in the case of nano zinc oxide which is sometimes referred to as nanoscale though the UV agent has a mean primary particle size that is less than 200 nm.

[0187] In some particular embodiments, the amount of at least one mineral UV filter is present from about 1% to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition. The total amount of mineral UV filtering agents in the compositions can vary but is typically from about 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10 wt.% based on the total weight of the composition.

[0188] The mineral UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of metal oxides, which may or may not be coated. And in some embodiments, the mineral UV filters are selected from pigments formed of metal oxides, such as, for example, pigments formed of titanium dioxide (amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and / or anatase form), iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, or cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se.

[0189] The mineral UV filter may or may not be coated, and said coated mineral UV filter may have one or more coating. The coating may comprise one or more compound selected from the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron, or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin, amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes, such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds. It is in some embodiments desirable for the coating to include one or a combination of organic UV filter.

[0190] Of course, the mineral UV filter made of metal oxides may, before their treatment with silicones, have been treated with other surfacing agents, in particular, with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds, or their mixtures. The coated mineral UV filter may have been prepared by subjecting the mineral UV filter to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechano- chemical, and / or mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.

[0191] The coated mineral UV filter may be titanium oxides coated: with silica, such as the product "Sun veil" from Ikeda, and "Sunsil TIN 50" from Sunjin Chemical; with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda; with silica and with alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" from Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia; with alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" from Ishihara, and "UVT 14 / 4" from Kemira; with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-01" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil CT 100" from Uniqema, and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from Merck; with alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S" from Tayca; with iron oxide and with iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F" from Tayca; with zinc oxide and with zinc stearate, such as the product "BR351" from Tayca; with silica and with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS", and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS" from Tayca; with silica, with alumina and with aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the product "STT-30-DS" from Titan Kogyo; with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product "UV- Titan X 195" from Kemira;with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" from Ishihara or "UV Titan M 262" from Kemira; with triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo; with stearic acid, such as the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" from Ishihara; or with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from Tayca. Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are, and in some embodiments TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, TiO2 treated with a poly dimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 21 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF TiO2Si3" by Cardre, and anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.

[0192] And in some embodiments, the following coated TiO2 can be used as the coated mineral UV filter: Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "MT-100 TV" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "S A-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Silica (and) TiO2, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "MT-Y02" and "MT-Y-110 M3S" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm; Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "SA-TTO-S3" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) TiO2, such as the product "UV TITAN Ml 70" from Sachtleben, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;. and Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) TiO2, such as the product "MT100 AQ" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm. In terms of UV filtering ability, TiO2 coated with one or a combination of organic UV filter is more desirable. For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) TiO2, such as the product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be used.

[0193] e uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks "Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the trademark "P 25", by Wacker under the trademark "Oxyde de titane transparent PW", byMiyoshi Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by Tomen under the trademark "ITS" and by Tioxide under the trademark "Tioveil AQ". The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark "Z-cote" by Sunsmart; those marketed under the trademark "Nanox" by Elementis; and those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies. The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those marketed under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); those marketed under the trademark "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nanooxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with phosphate of perfiuoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a siliconegrafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the trademark "Escalol Z100" by ISP (alumina- treated ZnO dispersed in an ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone mixture); those marketed under the trademark "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and those marketed under the trademark "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments are marketed, for example, under the trademark "Colloidal Cerium Oxide" by Rhone-Poulenc.

[0194] The uncoated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard FE 45R AQ", and "Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", or by Mitsubishi under the trademark "TY-220". The coated iron oxide pigments are, for example, marketed by Arnaud under the trademarks "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345", and "Nanogard FE 45 BL", or by BASF under the trademark "Oxy de de fer transparent".

[0195] Acne Treatment Active:

[0196] The composition according to the present invention contains at least one acne treatment active selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid or its derivatives according to formula(I), benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, azelaic acid, retinol, retin-a, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, alpha-hydroxy acids, and combinations thereof.

[0197] In preferred embodiments, the acne treatment active is selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives according to formula (I), and combinations thereof.

[0198] The salicylic derivatives in accordance with the present invention correspond to formula(I):in which:- the radical R denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds that may be conjugated; an aromatic nucleus linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups possibly being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;- R’ is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula:— O-C-R, il O in which Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms;and also salts thereof derived from an inorganic or organic base.

[0199] Preferably, the R radical in formula (I) denotes a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds; it being possible for said hydrocarbon-based chains to be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0200] In one preferred embodiment, the R radical in formula (I) denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably alkyl group, containing 2 or more, preferably 3 or more, more preferably 4 or more, even more preferably 5 or more, and in particular 6 or more carbon atoms, and / or 22 or less, preferably 18 or less, even more preferably 14 or less, preferentially 12 or less, and in particular 10 or less carbon atoms.

[0201] Preferentially, R’ in formula (I) is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula:in which Ri denotes a radical -(CHojn-CH-, where n is a number ranging from 0 to 14.

[0202] The salicylic acid derivatives that are more particularly preferred are those according to formula (I) in which the R radical is a C3-C10 alkyl group and / or R' denotes hydroxyl.

[0203] Other particularly advantageous compounds are those in which R represents a chain derived from caprylic, linoleic, linolenic or oleic acid.

[0204] Another group of particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives is constituted of compounds in which the R radical denotes a C3-C10 alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R' denotes hydroxyl.

[0205] The salicylic acid or its derivatives of formula (I) that may be used according to the present invention are in particular described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, US 4,767,750, EP 378 936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP-A-570,230.

[0206] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I), mention may be made of 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and the corresponding salts thereof. The derivative in question is preferably 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

[0207] For the purposes of the present invention, the salts of the salicylic acid or its derivatives are also considered. As the salts derived from inorganic bases, mention may particularly be made of those derived from alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxylated bases, for instance sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and ammonia. As regards the salts derived from the organic bases, mention may particularly be made of those derived from bases of amine or alkanolamine type.

[0208] The (b) salicylic acid or its derivative(s) may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Definitions and Terms

[0209] As used herein, the phrases “and mixtures thereof,” “and a mixture thereof,” “and combinations thereof,” “and a combination thereof,” “or mixtures thereof,” “or a mixture thereof,” “or combinations thereof,” and “or a combination thereof,” are used interchangeably to denote that the listing of components immediately preceding the phrase, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof’ signify that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof.

[0210] The transitional terms “comprising”, “consisting essentially of’ and “consisting of’, when used in the appended claims, in original and amended form, define the claim scope with respect to what unrecited additional claim elements or steps, if any, are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or “comprise,” “have,” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or open-ended and does not exclude any additional, unrecited element, method, step, or material. The term “consisting of’ excludes any element, step, or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter instance, impurities ordinary associated with the specified material(s). The term “consisting essentially of’ limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and those that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristic(s) of the claimed invention. All materials and methods described herein that embody the present invention can, in alternate embodiments, be more specifically defined by any of the transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of.”

[0211] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms “a,” “an,” “the,” and “at least one” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular unless the context clearly dictates otherwise, and these expressions, as well as the expression “one or more” which means “at least one,” are expressly intended to include the individual components as well as mixtures / combinations thereof.

[0212] For purposes of the present disclosure, it should be noted that to provide a more concise description, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term “about.” It is understood that whether the term “about” is used explicitly or not, every quantity given herein is meant to refer to the actual given value, and it is also meant to refer to the approximation to such given value that would reasonably be inferred based on the ordinary skill in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions for such given value. All ranges and amounts given herein are intended to include sub-ranges and amounts using any disclosed point as an end point. All numbers, amounts, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term “about,” whether or not so expressly stated. Similarly, a range given of “about 3% to 7%” is intended to have the term “about” modifying both the 3% and the 7% endpoints. The term “about” is used herein to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Likewise, all endpoints of ranges are understood to be individually disclosed, such that, for example, a range of 1 :2 to 2: 1 is understood to disclose a ratio of both 1:2 and 2: 1.

[0213] ‘Active material” as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.

[0214] All amounts given herein are relative to the amount of active material, unless otherwise indicated.

[0215] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0216] As used herein, the term “surfactants,” as well as any specifically-identified surfactants, includes salts of the surfactants even if not explicitly stated.

[0217] As used herein, the term “synthetic” means a material that is not of natural origin. The term “natural” and “naturally-sourced” and “nature-based” means a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which also cannot be subsequently chemically or physically modified. “Plant-based” means that the material came from a plant.

[0218] Unless otherwise expressly stated, it is in no way intended that any method set forth herein be construed as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a method claim does not expressly recite an order to be followed by its steps or it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps are to be limited to a specific order, it is no way intended that any particular order be inferred.

[0219] As used herein, the term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein means the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. For instance, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, based on the total weight of the compositions (provided that an amount of less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the compositions according to the disclosure. Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none of the specified material. Furthermore, all components that are positively set forth in the instant disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims, e.g., a claimed composition may be “free,” “essentially free” (or “substantially free”) of one or more components that are positively set forth in the instant disclosure. The term “substantially free” or “essentially free” as used herein may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material that is included in the composition.EXAMPLES

[0220] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the Examples, amounts are expressed in percentage by weight (wt%) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] Example 1- Coacervate Examples

[0222] In order to demonstrate the coacervate phenomenon, the following compositions A-D were prepared.

[0223] Table 2 - Examples of coacervate systems.

[0224] Each of compositions (A-D) were clear upon initial preparation as shown in Figure 1. After dilution 10 times with water, the compositions appeared hazy, as shown in Figure 2. Each of compositions A-D demonstrated the coacervate phenomenon by going through the phase transition during dilution with water.

[0225] Example 2 - Coacervate system with Sophorolipid

[0226] In order to demonstrate the coacervate phenomenon using sophorolipid, the following compositions (3-7) and comparative compositions (1,2,8, and 9) were prepared.

[0227] Table 3 - Compositions with Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sophorolipid andChitosan - Behavior After Dilution

[0228] A = Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine; B=Sophorolipid

[0229] Compositions 1-9 were prepared, and then diluted 10 times with water. Samples 3-7 demonstrated the coacervate phenomenon and turned cloudy after dilution with water. Samples 1,2,8, and 9 did not demonstrate coacervate, and did not turn cloudy after dilution. Samples with sophorolipid concentrations between 3 and 7%, and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine concentrations between 3 and 7% demonstrated coacervate.

[0230] Example 3 - Coacervate system with rhamnolipid

[0231] In order to demonstrate the coacervate phenomenon could be achieved across a range of concentrations, the following compositions containing varying amounts of cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, rhamnolipid, and polylysine were prepared.

[0232] Table 4 - Compositions with Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Rhamnolipid and Polylysine - Behavior After Dilution

[0233] A=Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine; C= Rhamnolipid

[0234] Compositions 10-18 were prepared, and then diluted 10 times with water. Samples 12-17 demonstrated the coacervate phenomenon and turned cloudy after dilution with water. Samples 10,11, and 18 did not demonstrate coacervate, and did not turn cloudy after dilution. Samples with rhamnolipid concentrations between 2 and 7%, and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine concentrations between 3 and 8% demonstrated coacervate.

[0235] Example 4 - Comparative Systems with Mineral Particles Examples

[0236] In order to demonstrate the deposition of mineral particles according to the disclosure, the following inventive coacervate composition (19) and comparative non-coacervate compositions (20&21) were prepared.

[0237] Table 5- Inventive and Comparative FormulationsExample 5 - Whitening Efficiency

[0238] In order to demonstrate the deposition of TiO2 left after washing, samples 19-21 were prepared. 0.2g of each sample were placed on a black substrate and spread evenly across a 1 inch area, as shown in Figure 3. The samples were then rinsed with water and examined for residual TiO2 as shown in Figures 4-6. The whitening efficiency was measured for each sample, and the results are shown in Table 6 below.

[0239] Method of determination of whitening efficiency was measured by Datacolor 600.

[0240] Baseline: completely clean substrate, without cleanser applied.

[0241] Sample before rinse off: substrate with cleanser applied, and before removal performed.

[0242] Sample after rinse off: substrate with cleanser applied, and after removal performed.

[0243] The equation below was used to calculate the whitening efficacy.

[0245] Referring to table 5, the coacervate composition (19) was tested and compared with the non-coacervate compositions (20&21). The results are shown below in Table 6.Table 6 - Whitening Efficiency

[0246] The coacervate composition (19) left a visible later of TiO2 as shown in Figure 4, and had the highest whitening efficiency of 64.7%. The coacervate composition (19) showed much higher whitening efficiency as compared to the non-coacervate compositions (20&21) shown in Figures 5 and 6. The coacervate composition (19) showed an increase in deposition of TiO2 compared to the non-coacervate compositions (20&21).

[0247] Example 6 - Comparative Systems with Salicylic Acid Examples

[0248] In order to demonstrate the deposition of salicylic acid according to the disclosure, the following inventive coacervate composition (19) and comparative non-coacervate compositions (20&21) were prepared.

[0249] Table 7- Inventive and Comparative Formulations

[0250] Example 7 - Salicylic Acid Deposition

[0251] In order to demonstrate the deposition of salicylic acid left after washing, samples 22-24 were prepared. 0.2 g of each sample were placed on a substrate and spread evenly across a 1 inch area, as shown in Figure 7. The samples were then rinsed with water and visually examined for residual salicylic acid as shown in Figures 8-10. Ferric chloride was applied to each of the substrates to dye the salicylic acid red to be able to visually observe the deposition levels.

[0252] The coacervate composition (22) left a visible layer of salicylic acid as shown in Figure 8 indicated by the pink color. Comparative formula 23 had no pink color which indicated no deposition of salicylic acid, shown in Figure 9. Comparative formula 24 had a slight pink color which indicated little salicylic acid deposition, shown in Figure 10. The coacervate composition (22) was darker in color than the two comparative formulas, which indicates a higher deposition of salicylic acid.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight; and(d) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

2. A coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight;(d) at least one mineral particle; and(e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

3. A coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight;(d) at least one acne treatment active; and(e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, andwherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

4. A coacervate cleansing system, comprising:(a) at least one amphoteric surfactant;(b) at least one glycolipid;(c) at least one cationic polymer from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight;(d) at least one mineral particle, at least one acne treatment active, or a mixture thereof; and(e) at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent; wherein the cleansing system is essentially free of phenoxyethanol and wherein the pH of the composition is between 4 and 8, and wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric surfactant to glycolipid is from about 0.4 to about 4, and wherein the total concentration of amphoteric surfactant and glycolipid combined is about 10% to about 20% of the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, coco betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate or a mixture thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco-betaine, or a mixture thereof.

7. The composition according to any of claims 1 -4, wherein the at least one glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, or a mixture thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 7 wherein the at least one glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, or a mixture thereof.

9. The composition according to any of claims 1 -4, wherein the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, or a mixture thereof.

10. The composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from a nature-based polymer.

11. The composition according to claims 9 or 10, wherein the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from chitosan, polylysine, or a mixture thereof.

12. The composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one mineral particle is chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or a mixture thereof, and wherein the concentration of the at least one mineral particle is from about 1% to about 10%.

13. The composition of claim 3, wherein the at least one acne treatment active is chosen from salicylic acid, salicylic acid derivatives, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, azelaic acid, retinol, retin- a, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, alpha-hydroxy acids; or a mixture thereof, and wherein the concentration of the at least one acne treatment active is from about 0.1% to about 5%.

14. The composition of claim 13, wherein the at least one acne treatment active is chosen from salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, or a mixture thereof.

15. The composition according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the concentration of amphoteric surfactant is from about 3% to about 8%, and wherein the concentration of glycolipid is from about 2% to about 7%, and, wherein the concentration of cationic polymer is from about 0.1% to about 0.2%, and wherein the pH is from 4.5 to 7.5, and wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

Images