Smoothing hair treatment composition

Abstract

Use of a smoothing hair treatment composition to prevent weakening of hair keratin fibers under heat up to 230°C (450°F), wherein the smoothing hair treatment composition comprises 6.0 to 10% by weight of citric acid and gluconic acid, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition; -10 to 20% by weight of a polyelectrolyte complex, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, wherein the polyelectrolyte complex comprises a copolymer comprising polyquaternium (PQ) and methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride; a surfactant selected from an anionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant; and a preservative.

Description

[0001] SMOOTHING HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] Disclosed herein are uses for smoothing hair straightening compositions to prevent weakening of hair keratin fibers under heat up to 230°C (450°F). The smoothing hair treatment compositions comprise a fiber active, a polyelectrolyte complex, a surfactant, and a preservative. The smoothing hair treatment composition is a leave-on treatment composition.

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] Consumers regularly subject their hair to intensive treatment, care, and styling routines to help achieve a desired look. The actions performed by consumers introduce modifications to the chemistry of hair keratin protein which result in micro- and macro-structural changes and, in turn, changes fiber physical properties: the consequences of these are generally perceived by the consumer as damage.

[0006] Many people with naturally kinky, curly, or even wavy hair often desire to straighten their hair. Permanent hair straightening compositions that are on the market are based on chemical treatment of the hair in a two-step process using reducing agents to break hair disulfide bonds, followed by a neutralisation or oxidation step to re-establish new disulfide bonds in the desired configuration. Such systems have various negatives associated with them. The process itself is difficult to conduct, and in many instances, it is undertaken by a qualified hairdresser in a professional salon. Furthermore, the straightening process damages the hair, has an unpleasant odour and can cause irritation to the scalp.

[0007] International Patent Application No. WO 2017 / 129300 A1 discloses a method for shaping hair comprising treating the hair by topical application of a hair shaping composition, followed by mechanically shaping the treated hair. The hair shaping composition has a pH of 4 or less and comprises in an aqueous continuous phase, at least 0.5% malic acid by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0008] U.S. Patent No. 10,617,615 B2 discloses a method for styling hair comprising applying to hair a hair treatment composition comprising 4 to 25 wt% of a citric or aconitic acid and having a pH of 1 to 3, leaving the product on for 5 to 90 minutes, rinsing the product from the hair, and styling. U.S. Patent No. 10,300,003 B2 discloses a hair shaping composition suitable for topical application to hair, the composition having a pH of 4 or less and comprising in an aqueous continuous phase: at least 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition of one or more polyhydroxy acid lactones, at least 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition of one or more aliphatic di- or tricarboxylic acids or salts or hydrates thereof; and at least 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition of glycolic acid or a salt or hydrate thereof.

[0009] It is continually desired to provide smoothing hair treatment compositions that not only do not damage hair, but that can also repair damage previously done to the hair.

[0010] Summary of the invention

[0011] Disclosed in various aspects are uses of smoothing hair treatment compositions.

[0012] Use of a smoothing hair treatment composition to prevent weakening of hair keratin fibers under heat up to 230°C (450°F), wherein the smoothing hair treatment composition comprises 6.0 to 10% by weight of citric acid and gluconic acid, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition; 10 to 20% by weight of a polyelectrolyte complex, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, wherein the polyelectrolyte complex comprises a copolymer comprising polyquaternium (PQ) and methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride; a surfactant selected from an anionic surfactant or a cationic surfactant; and a preservative.

[0013] These and other features and characteristics are more particularly described below.

[0014] Detailed description of the invention

[0015] Disclosed herein are uses of smoothing hair treatment compositions. The use can include preventing weakening of hair keratin fibers under heat up to 230°C (450°F). The use can include preventing thermal damage up to 230°C (450°F) to hair keratin fibers. The use can include penetrating and repairing chemically damaged hair. The use can include preventing thermal damage on chemically treated hair. The use can include preventing damage from heat in chemically damaged hair. The use can include preventing damage from heat in virgin hair. The use and include increasing the denaturization temperature of chemically treated hair either with or without heat compared to a chemically treated hair control. The use can include increasing hair crosslinking density on chemically treated hair either with or without heat compared to a chemically treated hair control. The use can include increasing hair crosslinking density on heat treated virgin hair compared to a heat treated virgin hair control. The smoothing hair treatment composition can be in the form of a cream. The smoothing hair treatment composition is a leave-on treatment composition.

[0016] The smoothing hair treatment composition can be free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, and petrolatum.

[0017] The smoothing hair treatment compositions can comprise a fiber active, a polyelectrolyte complex, a surfactant, and a preservative.

[0018] The hair can be of any type: straight, wavy, curly, or tight curls or coils. Straight hair (also known as type 1 hair) is sheen and resilient. Straight hair features a fine and fragile texture and is very difficult to curl. Wavy hair (also known as type 2 hair) is where the curls are in a loose “S” pattern. The sheen ranges between straight and curly hair and can have a thin to thick texture. Wavy hair is more likely to become frizzy than type 1 hair. Curly hair (also known as type 3 hair) has loose to corkscrew curls which are typically defined as a “round S”. This type of hair is more likely to become frizzy and is highly damage prone. Lack of proper care for curly hair can cause less defined curls and can appear frizzier. Tight curls or coiled hair (also known as type 4 hair) features tightly coiled, wiry curls (or no visible curl pattern at all). It is very fragile with a high density. Tight curls or coiled hair has a “Z” pattern and typically the hair bends at sharp angles rather than gentle curls as seen in wavy or curly hair. Tight curls or coiled hair often shrinks when wet and because it has fewer cuticle layers than other hair types, it is more susceptible to damage.

[0019] Damage as referred to herein means damage may be caused by mechanical means, for example combing and brushing, chemical means, exposure to heat, environmental means such as sunlight and exposure to damaging energy sources, for example light such as UV light. Chemical means includes treatments that involve an oxidative step, for example, hair lightening, such as bleaching, and coloring treatments. The chemically treated hair can be bleached. A fiber active can be present in the for use smoothing hair treatment compositions. Fiber actives can penetrate into the hair fiber to occlude water adsorption sites by steric means. The ability to lower the moisture content can result in higher biomechanical properties, e.g., stronger hair. This mechanism works best at low pH due to have optimum penetration into the hair fiber. The smaller the molecule, the better the penetration. For example, carboxylic acid-citric acid can penetrate the hair and bind with matrix proteins thereby swelling and increasing smoother hair and less frizz. The same can be true with gluconolactone which hydrolyzes in water to form gluconic acid. The fiber actives penetrate into the hair fiber and influence changes such as modifying the proteins or creating internal bonds and can also provide for increased fiber stiffness. Acids such as fiber actives have an affinity for hair and can reduce water uptake by blocking sites where water would otherwise adsorb.

[0020] The fiber active can comprise gluconic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid, adipic acid, or a combination thereof; preferably the gluconic acid comprises sodium gluconate and preferably the citric acid comprises sodium citrate.

[0021] The citric acid can comprise citric acid, sodium citrate, or a combination thereof. In an embodiment, the citric acid is citric acid, sodium citrate, or a combination thereof. The fiber active can comprise gluconolactone, also known as glucono delta lactone. In an embodiment, the fiber active acid is gluconolactone, also known as glucono delta lactone. In an embodiment, the gluconic acid comprises a salt of gluconic acid or a hydrolyzed form of gluconic acid, preferably the salt of gluconic acid is sodium gluconate and the hydrolyzed form of gluconic acid is gluconolactone.

[0022] The fiber active can be present in an amount of 0.1.0 to 10% by weight, for example, 6.0 to 10% by weight, for example, 6.1 to 9% by weight, for example, 6.2 to 8.5% by weight, for example, 6.3 to 8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition. In an embodiment, the fiber active is present in an amount of 6.0 to 10% by weight, preferably, 6.1 to 9% by weight, more preferably, 6.2 to 8.5%, even more preferably, 6.3 to 8.0%, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0023] The smoothing hair treatment composition can comprise a polyelectrolyte complex. A polyelectrolyte (PE) can be defined as any macromolecular material that has repeating units and dissociates into a highly charged polymeric molecule upon being placed in any ionizing solvent (e.g., H2O) forming either a positively or negatively charged polymeric chain. The charge on the repeating units of the PE is neutralized by oppositely charged smaller counter ions that tend to preserve the electro neutrality. If any PE solution contains a positively charged electrolyte it can be accompanied by small negatively charged ions.

[0024] Some common examples of polyelectrolytes are poly (acrylic acid) (PAA) and poly (methacrylic acid) (PMA) and their salts, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, DNA, RNA, and other polyacids and polybases. Other common natural polyelectrolytes include pectin (polygalacturonic acid), alginate (alginic acid), carboxymethyl cellulose, and polypeptides. Polyacrylic acid, polystyrene sulfonate, polyallylamine, carboxymethyl cellulose and related salts are examples of typical synthetic polyelectrolytes.

[0025] The polyelectrolyte complex can generally be described as a macromolecular material that has repeating units and disassociates into highly charged polymeric molecules upon being placed into any ionizing solvent (e.g., water) forming either positively or negatively charged polymeric chains. Stated another way, a polyelectrolyte complex is a combination of the anionic and cationic that can dissociate in the solvent to yield both the negative and positively charged polymers. In an embodiment, the polyelectrolyte complex can be a micron sized particle that provides hair fiber repair properties. For example, the polyelectrolyte complex can be a copolymer comprising polyquaternium (PQ) and methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (PVM / MA), for example, a copolymer of PQ-PVM / MA, for example, a copolymer of PQ-28- PVM / MA. In an embodiment, the polyelectrolyte complex is a copolymer comprising PQ- PVM / MA. In an embodiment, the polyelectrolyte complex is a copolymer comprising PQ-28- PVM / MA. The polyelectrolyte complex comprising PQ-28-PVM / MA is commercially available as STYLE FUSION™ 1 from Ashland.

[0026] The polyelectrolyte complex can be present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, for example, 7.5 to 20% by weight, for example, 8 to 18% by weight, for example, 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. In an embodiment, the polyelectrolyte complex is present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, for example, 7.5 to 20% by weight, for example, 8 to 18% by weight, for example, 10 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. A surfactant can be present in the smoothing hair treatment composition. The surfactant can be selected from an anionic surfactant and a cationic surfactant. The smoothing hair treatment composition can comprise an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, or a combination thereof.

[0027] The anionic surfactant can contain Cs-Cis alkyl groups, for example, C12-C16 alkyl groups, for example, C10-C14 alkyl groups, or mixtures thereof. For example, the surfactant and / or cosurfactant can contain C10 alkyl groups, C12 alkyl groups, C14 alkyl groups, or any combination thereof.

[0028] When present, the anionic surfactant used can include aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) disulfonate, C8-C22 alkene sulfonate, C8-C22 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate. The anionic surfactant may also be an alkyl sulfate (e.g., C12-C18 alkyl sulfate) or alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates). Among the alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula:

[0029] RO(CH2CH2O)nSO3M wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of at least 1 .0, preferably less than 5, and most preferably 1 to 4, and M is a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium.

[0030] The anionic surfactant can also be alkyl sulfosuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates (often methyl taurates), alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C8-C22 alkyl phosphates and phosphonates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C8-C22 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like.

[0031] Sulfosuccinates may be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula:

[0032] R1OC(O)CH2CH(SO3M)CO2M; and amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula: R1CONHCH2CH2OC(O)CH2CH(SO3M)CO2M wherein R1ranges from C8-C22 alkyl.

[0033] Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula:

[0034] R2CON(CH3)CH2CC>2M, wherein R2ranges from C8-C20 alkyl.

[0035] Taurates are generally identified by the formula:

[0036] R3CONR4CH2CH2SO3M wherein R3is a C8-C20 alkyl and R4is a C1-C4 alkyl.

[0037] M is a solubilizing cation as previously described.

[0038] The smoothing hair treatment composition disclosed herein can contain Cs-Cis acyl isethionates. These esters are prepared by a reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75% of the mixed fatty acids have 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25% have 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0039] The acyl isethionate can be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in llardi et al., U.S. Pat. No. 5,393,466, entitled "Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid; issued Feb. 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference. This compound has the general formula:

[0040] R5C— (0)0— C(X)H— C(Y)H— (OCH2— CH2)m— SO3M wherein R5is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons, m is an integer of 1 to 4, X and Y are each independently hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons and M is a solubilizing cation as previously described. In an aspect, the anionic surfactant used is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium perfluorononanoate, potassium lauryl sulfate, sodium alkyl sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium laurate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium stearate, sodium sulfosuccinate esters, sodium lauroyl isethionate, or a combination thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers like Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion, Stepan Company, and Innospec.

[0041] An anionic surfactant used can be sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha olefin sulfonate (AOS), or a combination thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers like Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion and Innospec. Sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium lauroyl glyconate, sodium methyl lauroyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha olefin sulfonate (AOS), or a combination thereof can be the preferred anionics suitable for use in the smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein.

[0042] The total amount of anionic surfactant present in the smoothing hair treatment compositions can be 0.25 to 45%, for example, 0.5 to 35%, for example, 0.75 to 20%, for example, 1.0 to 20%, for example, 1.5 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0043] In an aspect, cationic surfactants are used in the smoothing hair treatment compositions of the present application.

[0044] One class of cationic surfactants includes heterocyclic ammonium salts such as cetyl or stearyl pyridinium chloride, alkyl amidoethyl pyrrylinodium methyl sulfate, and lapyrium chloride.

[0045] Tetra alkyl ammonium salts are another useful class of cationic surfactants for use. Examples include cetyl or stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide; hydrogenated palm or tallow trimethylammonium halides; behenyl trimethyl ammonium halides or methyl sulfates; decyl isononyl dimethyl ammonium halides; ditallow (or distearyl) dimethyl ammonium halides, and behenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. Still other types of cationic surfactants that can be used are the various ethoxylated quaternary amines and ester quats. Examples include PEG-5 stearyl ammonium lactate (e.g., Genamin KSL manufactured by Clariant), PEG-2 coco ammonium chloride, PEG-15 hydrogenated tallow ammonium chloride, PEG 15 stearyl ammonium chloride, dipalmitoyl ethyl methyl ammonium chloride, dipalmitoyl hydroxyethyl methyl sulfate, and stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine lactate.

[0046] In an embodiment the cationic surfactant comprises a quaternary ammonium, an amine salt, or a combination thereof, preferably the cationic surfactant is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, di hydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof, stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid- amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and or a combination thereof.

[0047] Still other useful cationic surfactants include quaternized hydrolysates of silk, wheat, and keratin proteins, and it is within the scope of the smoothing hair treatment compositions to use mixtures of the aforementioned cationic surfactants.

[0048] In an embodiment, the cationic surfactant is behentrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof. Cationic surfactants can be present in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, for example, 0.75 to 8% by weight, for example, 1.0 to 7.5% by weight, for example, 1.5 to 6% by weight, for example, 2.0 to 5.0% by weight, for example, 2.0 to 4.0% by weight based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. In an embodiment, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, for example, 0.75 to 8% by weight, for example, 1.0 to 7.5% by weight, for example, 1.5 to 6% by weight, for example,, 2.0 to 5.0% by weight, for example, 2.0 to 4.0% by weight based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0049] Optionally, amphoteric surfactants can be included in the smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein. Amphoteric surfactants (which depending on pH can be zwitterionic) include sodium acyl amphoacetates, sodium acyl amphopropionates, disodium acyl amphodiacetates and disodium acyl amphodipropionates where the acyl (i.e. , alkanoyl group) can comprise a C7-C18 alkyl portion. Illustrative examples of amphoteric surfactants include sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, or a combination thereof.

[0050] As to the optional zwitterionic surfactants employed in the present smoothing hair treatment compositions, such surfactants include at least one acid group. Such an acid group may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They often include quaternary nitrogen, and therefore, can be quaternary amino acids. They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms and generally comply with an overall structural formula:

[0051] R6— [— C(O)— NH(CH2)q— J,— N+(R7)(R8)-A— B where R6is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R7and R8are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; q is 2 to 4; r is 0 to 1; A is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and B is — CO2— or — SO3 — .

[0052] Desirable zwitterionic surfactants within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:

[0053] R6— N+(R7)(R8)-CH2CO2- and amido betaines of formula:

[0054] R6_ CONH(CH2)t— N+(R7)(R8)-CH2CO2- where t is 2 or 3.

[0055] In both formulae R6, R7and R8are as defined previously. R6may, in particular, be a mixture of Ci2and C14 alkyl groups derived from coconut oil so that at least half, preferably at least three quarters of the groups R6have 10 to 14 carbon atoms. R7and R8are preferably methyl.

[0056] A further possibility is that the zwitterionic surfactant is a sulphobetaine of formula:

[0057] R6— N+(R7)(R8)-(CH2)3SO3- or

[0058] R6_ CONH(CH2)U— N+(R7)(R8)-(CH2)3SO3- where u is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which — (CH2)3SO3_is replaced by — CH2C(OH)(H)CH2SO3-.

[0059] In these formulae, R6, R7and R8are as previously defined.

[0060] Illustrative examples of the zwitterionic surfactants include betaines such as lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, cocodimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, coco alkyldimethyl betaine, and laurylamidopropyl betaine. An additional zwitterionic surfactant suitable for use includes cocoamidopropyl sultaine, for example, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants include lauryl betaine, betaine citrate, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, (carboxymethyl) dimethyl-3-[(1-oxododecyl) amino] propylammonium hydroxide, coco alkyldimethyl betaine, (carboxymethyl) dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxymethyl) dimethyloleylammonium hydroxide, cocoamidopropyl betaine, (carboxylatomethyl) dimethyl(octadecyl)ammonium, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, or a combination thereof. Such surfactants are made commercially available from suppliers like Stepan Company, Solvay, Evonik and the like and it is within the scope of the smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein to employ mixtures of the aforementioned surfactants.

[0061] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be used at levels as low as 0.5, 1 , 1 .5 or 2% by weight and at levels as high as 6, 8, 10 or 12% by weight, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0062] Nonionic surfactants may optionally be used in the smoothing hair treatment compositions. When used, nonionic surfactants are typically used at levels as low as 0.5, 1 , 1.5 or 2% by weight and at levels as high as 6, 8, 10 or 12% by weight, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The nonionic surfactants which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols, acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides, especially ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide. Specific nonionic surfactant compounds are alkyl (C6-C22) phenols, ethylene oxide condensates, the condensation products of aliphatic (Cs- Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine. Other nonionic surfactants include long chain tertiary amine oxides, long chain tertiary phosphine oxides, dialkyl sulphoxides, and the like.

[0063] In an aspect, nonionic surfactants can include fatty acid / alcohol ethoxylates having the following structures a) HOCH2(CH2)s(CH2CH2O)cH or b) HOOC(CH2)v(CH2CH2O)d H; where s and v are each independently an integer up to 18; and c and d are each independently an integer from 1 or greater. In an aspect, s and v can be each independently 6 to 18; and c and d can be each independently 1 to 30. Other options for nonionic surfactants include those having the formula HOOC(CH2)i — CH=CH — (CH2)k(CH2CH2O)zH, where i, k are each independently 5 to 15; and z is 5 to 50. In another aspect, i and k are each independently 6 to 12; and z is 15 to 35.

[0064] The nonionic surfactant can also include a sugar amide, such as a polysaccharide amide. Specifically, the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,389,279 to Au et al., entitled "Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants issued Feb. 14, 1995; which is hereby incorporated by reference or it may be one of the sugar amides described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,009,814 to Kelkenberg, titled "Use of N-Poly Hydroxyalkyl Fatty Acid Amides as Thickening Agents for Liquid Aqueous Surfactant Systems" issued Apr.

[0065] 23, 1991 ; hereby incorporated into the subject application by reference.

[0066] Illustrative examples of nonionic surfactants that can optionally be used in the smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein include, but are not limited to, polyglycoside, cetyl alcohol, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, octaethylene glycol monododecyl ether, n-octyl beta- d-thioglucopyranoside, octyl glucoside, oleyl alcohol, polysorbate, sorbitan, stearyl alcohol, or a combination thereof.

[0067] The hair treatment composition can be free from the use of sulfate surfactants. Substantially free or essentially free as used herein refers to an amount of less than or equal to 1% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.25% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, for example, less than or equal to 0.01 % by weight, for example, 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0068] The overall surfactant can be present in an amount of 1 to 60% by weight, for example, 2 to 50% by weight, for example, 2 to 40% by weight, for example, 2 to 37% by weight, for example, 2 to 30% by weight based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The surfactant can differ depending on whether the end use product is a shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, mask, serum, leave-on product, etc.

[0069] The smoothing hair treatment composition can comprise a preservative. Illustrative preservatives for use include sodium benzoate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexylglycerine, methyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, dimethyl-dimethyl (DMDM) hydantoin, potassium sorbate, sodium salicylate, levulinic acid, ansic, acid, and benzyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. Other preservatives suitable for use include sodium dehydroacetate, chlorophenesin, and decylene glycol. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts of 0.01% to 2.0% by weight of the total weight of hair treatment composition, including all values and ranges subsumed therein. Also preferred is a preservative system with hydroxyacetophenone alone or in a mixture with other preservatives. Smoothing hair treatment compositions, particularly water-based shampoos and hair conditioners can also contain one or more conditioning agents, for example, silicone conditioning agents. The conditioning agents can also comprise vegetable oil.

[0070] Particularly preferred silicone conditioning agents are silicone emulsions such as those formed from silicones such as polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol, and amino-functional polydimethyl siloxanes which have the CTFA designation amodimethicone.

[0071] The emulsion droplets may typically have a Sauter mean droplet diameter (Da,2) in the composition of 0.01 to 20 micrometers (pm), more preferably 0.2 to 10 pm.

[0072] A suitable method for measuring the Sauter mean droplet diameter (Da,2) is by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvern Mastersizer.

[0073] Suitable silicone emulsions for use in compositions as disclosed herein are available from suppliers of silicones such as Dow Corning and Momentive Performance Materials. The use of such pre-formed silicone emulsions is preferred for ease of processing and control of silicone particle size. Such pre-formed silicone emulsions will typically additionally comprise a suitable emulsifier such as an anionic or nonionic emulsifier, or mixture thereof, and may be prepared by a chemical emulsification process such as emulsion polymerization, or by mechanical emulsification using a high shear mixer. Pre-formed silicone emulsions having a Sauter mean droplet diameter (Da,2) of less than 0.15 micrometers are generally termed microemulsions.

[0074] Examples of suitable pre-formed silicone emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, DC-1785, DC-1786, DC-1788 and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC2-1870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions / microemulsions of dimethiconol. Also suitable are amodimethicone emulsions such as DC2-8177 and DC939 (from Dow Corning) and SME253 (from Momentive Performance Materials).

[0075] Also suitable are silicone emulsions in which certain types of surface active block copolymers of a high molecular weight have been blended with the silicone emulsion droplets, as described for example in International Application No. WO 2003 / 094874. In such materials, the silicone emulsion droplets are preferably formed from polydiorganosiloxanes such as those described above. One preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0076] HO(CH2CH2O)x(CH(CH3)CH2O)y(CH2CH2O)xH wherein the mean value of x is 4 or more and the mean value of y is 25 or more.

[0077] Another preferred form of the surface active block copolymer is according to the following formula:

[0078] (HO(CH2CH2O)a(CH(CH3)CH2O)b)2-N-CH2-CH2-N((OCH2CH(CH3))b(OCH2CH2)a OH)2wherein the mean value of a is 2 or more and the mean value of b is 6 or more.

[0079] Mixtures of any of the above described silicone emulsions may also be used.

[0080] The above described silicone emulsions will generally be present in a composition as disclosed herein at levels of 0.05 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 5%, for example, 0.5 to 2% by total weight of silicone based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0081] The vegetable conditioning agent can comprise soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, rapeseed oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, shea butter, cocoa butter, caprylic / capric triglyceride, safflower oil, or a combination thereof.

[0082] Desirable conditioning agents can include PhytoVie Defense which is a botanical based polymer made from tung and rapeseed oils. This conditioning agent can provide intense thermal protection for hair care at 450°F / 232°C; Gransense TC series (e.g., TC 18, 21, 50) is a natural and biodegradable elastomer (e.g., film former). Vegelight is a silicone replacement and KSG 210 is a silicone elastomer. The smoothing hair treatment composition can be free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, and / or petrolatum. In an embodiment, the hair treatment composition is free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, and petrolatum.

[0083] The smoothing hair treatment composition can be in the form of a shampoo, conditioner, cream, heat protection mist, shine spray, or combination thereof. In an embodiment, the smoothing hair treatment composition is in the form of a shampoo, conditioner, cream, heat protection mist, shine spray, or a combination thereof. In any of the forms disclosed herein, the smoothing hair treatment composition can be a leave-on treatment composition. In any of the forms disclosed herein, the smoothing hair treatment composition is a leave-on treatment composition. The smoothing hair treatment composition is a cream. The smoothing hair treatment composition is a leave-on treatment composition.

[0084] The smoothing hair treatment composition can have a pH of 3 to 7, for example, 3 to 6, for example, 3 to 4. In an embodiment, the smoothing hair treatment composition has a pH of 3 to 7, for example, 3 to 6, for example, 3 to 4.

[0085] A method of straightening and / or repairing damaged internal protein of hair can comprise the step of applying the smoothing hair treatment composition disclosed herein to hair.

[0086] An aspect of the smoothing hair treatment composition can include use of the smoothing hair treatment composition as disclosed herein to repair damage to internal hair protein.

[0087] Shampoos

[0088] Shampoo compositions as disclosed herein are generally aqueous, i.e. , they have water or an aqueous solution or a lyotropic liquid crystalline phase as their major component.

[0089] Desirably, the shampoo composition can comprise 50 to 98%, for example, 55 to 90% water by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0090] Shampoo compositions as disclosed herein will generally comprise one or more anionic cleansing surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and desirable for topical application to the hair. Examples of anionic cleansing surfactants used when the smoothing hair treatment compositions are in the form of a shampoo are the alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, N- alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, especially their sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18, preferably from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof may contain from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0091] In an aspect of the smoothing hair treatment composition, the anionic surfactant can comprise sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, alpha olefin sulfonate (AOS) (e.g., sodium alpha olefin sulfonate), or a combination thereof. Such anionic surfactants are commercially available from suppliers like Galaxy Surfactants, Clariant, Sino Lion, Stepan Company, and Innospec. In an embodiment, the smoothing hair treatment cleansing composition is essentially free of sulfate.

[0092] Other anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions disclosed herein can include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulphosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, triethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulphonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid and sodium N- lauryl sarcosinate.

[0093] Further anionic cleansing surfactants can comprise sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium lauryl ether sulphosuccinate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n is from 1 to 3), sodium cocoyl isethionate and lauryl ether carboxylic acid (n) EO (where n is from 10 to 20).

[0094] The anionic surfactant can comprise sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium alpha olefin sulfonate, or a combination thereof. Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants can be used.

[0095] The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant present in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions can be 0.5 to 45%, for example, 1 .5 to 35%, for example, 5 to 20%, for example, 12 to 20%, for example, 15 to 20% by total weight anionic cleansing surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0096] Optionally, a shampoo composition of the smoothing hair treatment compositions can comprise further ingredients as described to enhance performance and / or consumer acceptability.

[0097] The composition can include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

[0098] An example of a co-surfactant is a nonionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 8%, preferably 2 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0099] For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions include condensation products of aliphatic (Cs - Cis) primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

[0100] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and coco mono-isopropanolamide.

[0101] Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoo compositions of the hair treatment compositions include alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

[0102] RO - (G) wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

[0103] R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about Cs to about 620- Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of Cs to C12. Most preferably the value of is R 9.5 to 10.5. G may be selected from Cs or Cs monosaccharide residues and is preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose.

[0104] The degree of polymerization, n, may have a value of from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

[0105] Suitable alkyl polyglycosides are commercially available and include for example those materials identified as: ORAMIX™ NS10 ex Seppic; PLANTAREN™ 1200 and PLANTAREN™ 2000 ex Henkel.

[0106] Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included in compositions include the C10- C18 N-alkyl (Ci-Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C12-C18 N-methyl glucamides, as described for example in International Patent Application No. WO 1992 / 06154 and U.S. Patent No. 5,194,639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C10-C18 N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

[0107] A preferred example of a co-surfactant is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which can be included in an amount of 0.5 to 20%, for example, 1 to 18% by weight, for example, 5 to 18% by weight, for example, 10 to 18% by weight, for example, 12 to 28% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants have previously been described herein and any of the previously described amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants can be used as co-surfactants.

[0108] Conditioners (rinse-off, leave-in, masks, oils, serums)

[0109] Conditioner compositions will typically comprise one or more cationic conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Preferably, the cationic conditioning surfactants have the formula N+(R1)(R2)(R3)(R4), wherein R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ci to C30) alkyl or benzyl.

[0110] Preferably, one, two or three of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (C4 to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4group or groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl.

[0111] More preferably, one or two of R1, R2, R3and R4are independently (Ce to C30) alkyl and the other R1, R2, R3and R4groups are (Ci-Ce) alkyl or benzyl groups. Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-) and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0112] The hair treatment compositions can comprise 0.01 to 10 % by weight of a primary linear cationic conditioning surfactant, by total weight of the hair treatment composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein; selected from structure 1 and mixtures thereof 2 ©

[0113] R<©'R2X

[0114] Structure 1 wherein:

[0115] • R1 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C16 to C24, preferably Cis to C22;

[0116] • R2comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C4, preferably Ci to C2 or a benzyl group; and

[0117] • X is an organic or inorganic anion.

[0118] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by from 3 to 12, more preferably from 4 to 12, even more preferably from 6 to 12, most preferably from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2. In structure 1, the amine head group is charged within the final formulation. Raw materials include species where the charge is not permanent and can be induced by protonation in the formulation using a strong acid. When R2is a proton in the above general formulae, the proton may be present in the raw material or become associated during formulation.

[0119] Optionally, the alkyl groups may comprise one or more ester (-OCO- or -COO-), amido (-NOC- or NCO-), and / or ether (-O-) linkages within the alkyl chain. Alkyl groups may optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Alkyl groups may be straight chain or branched and, for alkyl groups having 3 or more carbon atoms, cyclic. The alkyl groups may be saturated or may contain one or more carbon-carbon double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Alkyl groups are optionally ethoxylated on the alkyl chain with one or more ethyleneoxy groups.

[0120] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions are quaternary amine salts comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0121] Suitable quaternary amine salts for use in conditioner compositions include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, behenylAmido Propyl Di-Methyl Amine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearalkonium chloride, Stearalkonium methosulphate, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride (e.g., Arquad 2HT / 75 from Akzo Nobel), cocotrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof.

[0122] Preferred quaternary amine salts can be selected from behentrimonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulphate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, or a combination thereof. The behentrimonium chloride can be combined with a solvent (e.g., isopropyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol, etc.) in the compositions.

[0123] The composition can comprise a linear cationic co-surfactant, according to structure 2:

[0124] Structure 2 wherein:

[0125] • R2 comprises a proton or a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C4, preferably Ci to C2 or a benzyl group;

[0126] • R3 comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C3 up to but not including C16, preferably C10 to C14; and

[0127] • X is an organic or inorganic anion; wherein the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3in structure 2 by at least 3 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3in structure 2; and wherein the molar ratio of linear cationic co-surfactant (iv) to linear cationic conditioning primary surfactant (i) is 1 :20 to 1 : 1 , preferably 1 : 10 to 1 :1 , preferably 1 :5 to 1 :2.

[0128] Preferably, the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 in structure 1 differs from the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2 by 3 to 12, more preferably 4 to 12, even more preferably 6 to 12, most preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such that the carbon-carbon chain length of R1 is structure 1 is longer than the carbon-carbon chain length of R3 in structure 2.

[0129] R3comprises a linear alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from C3 up to but not including C16, preferably C3 to C14, more preferably C6to C14, even more preferably Cs to C14, most preferably C10 to C14.

[0130] The linear co-surfactant can be present in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 2, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0, most preferably 0.2 to 0.7 wt % based on the weight of total composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0131] X is an organic or inorganic anion. Preferably, X comprises an anion selected from the halide ions; sulphates of the general formula RSO3 wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and anionic radicals of organic acids. Preferred halide ions are selected from fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide. Preferred anionic radicals of organic acids are selected from maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate and acetate. Preferred sulphates are methanesulphonate and ethanesulphonate.

[0132] Most preferably, X~ comprises an anion selected from a halide, a methanesulfonate group and an ethanesulphonate group.

[0133] In a preferred embodiment,

[0134] • R3 comprises linear alkyl chains, saturated or unsaturated, with carbon-carbon chain lengths of from C10 to C14;

[0135] • R2 comprises a proton or an alkyl chain having a carbon-carbon chain length of from Ci to C2; and

[0136] • X is selected from a halide, methanesulphonate and ethanesulphonate.

[0137] An example of a suitable material according to structure 2 is dodecyl-trimethylammonium chloride.

[0138] Suitable cationic conditioning surfactants for use in conditioner compositions according to the smoothing hair treatment compositions include comprises a quaternary ammonium, an amine salt, or a combination thereof. The cationic surfactant can comprise behentrimonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, di hydrogenated tallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2-oleammonium chloride and the corresponding hydroxides thereof, stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid- amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and or a combination thereof.

[0139] Further suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of the foregoing materials may also be suitable. A cationic surfactant for use in conditioners can be cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN CT AC, ex Hoechst Celanese. Another cationic surfactant for use in conditioners can be behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example as GENAMIN KDMP, ex Clariant.

[0140] Another example of a class of suitable cationic conditioning surfactants, either alone or in admixture with one or more other cationic conditioning surfactants, is a combination of (i) and (ii) below:

[0141] (i) an amidoamine corresponding to the general formula (I): in which R1is a hydrocarbyl chain having 10 or more carbon atoms,

[0142] R2and R3are independently selected from hydrocarbyl chains of from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and m is an integer from 1 to about 10; and

[0143] (ii) an acid.

[0144] As used herein, the term hydrocarbyl chain means an alkyl or alkenyl chain.

[0145] Preferred amidoamine compounds are those corresponding to formula (I) in which

[0146] R1is a hydrocarbyl residue having 11 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0147] R2and R3are each independently hydrocarbyl residues, preferably alkyl groups, having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, and m is an integer of 1 to 4.

[0148] Preferably, R2and R3are methyl or ethyl groups.

[0149] Preferably, m is 2 or 3, i.e. , an ethylene or propylene group.

[0150] Preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylmine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachid- amidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0151] Particularly preferred amidoamines useful herein are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, or a combination thereof.

[0152] Commercially available amidoamines useful herein include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine with tradenames LEXAMINE™ S-13 available from Index (Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA) and AMIDOAMINE™ MSP available from Nikko (Tokyo, Japan), stearamidoethyldiethylamine with a tradename AMIDOAMINE™ S available from Nikko, behenamidopropyldimethylamine with a tradename INCROMINE™ BB available from Croda (North Humberside, England), and various amidoamines with tradenames SCHERCODINE™ series available from Scher (Clifton, New Jersey, USA).

[0153] Acid (ii) may be any organic or mineral acid which is capable of protonating the amidoamine in the smoothing hair treatment composition. Suitable acids useful herein include hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acid is selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, fumaric acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The primary role of the acid is to protonate the amidoamine in the hair treatment composition thus forming a tertiary amine salt (TAS) in situ in the hair treatment composition. The TAS in effect is a non-permanent quaternary ammonium or pseudo-quaternary ammonium cationic surfactant.

[0155] Suitably, the acid is included in a sufficient amount to protonate all the amidoamine present, i.e. , at a level which is at least equimolar to the amount of amidoamine present in the composition.

[0156] In conditioners of the hair treatment compositions, the level of cationic conditioning surfactant can be 0.01 to 10%, for example, 0.05 to 7.5%, for example, 0.1 to 6%, for example, 1 to 6% by total weight of cationic conditioning surfactant based on the total weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein.

[0157] Conditioners will typically also incorporate a fatty alcohol. The combined use of fatty alcohols and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

[0158] Representative fatty alcohols comprise 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols are typically compounds containing straight chain alkyl groups. Examples of desirable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or a combination thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of hair treatment compositions.

[0159] The level of fatty alcohol in conditioners as disclosed herein can be 0.01 to 10%, for example, 0.1 to 8%, for example, 0.2 to 7%, for example, 0.3 to 6% by weight of the composition, including any and all ranges and values subsumed therein. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol can be 1 :1 to 1 :10, for example, 1:1.5 to 1:8, for example, 1 :2 to 1 :5. If the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is too high, this can lead to eye irritancy from the composition. If it is too low, it can make the hair feel squeaky for some consumers.

[0160] Form of Composition

[0161] The smoothing hair treatment compositions can take the form of a shampoo, conditioner (rinse- off, leave-in), mask, serum, cream, or a hair oil, for pre-wash or post-wash use. Typically, hair oils will predominantly comprise water-insoluble oily conditioning materials, such as triglycerides, mineral oil and mixtures thereof. The smoothing hair treatment compositions can also take the form of a hair lotion, typically for use in between washes. Lotions are aqueous emulsions comprising water-insoluble oily conditioning materials. Desirable surfactants can also be included in lotions to improve their stability to phase separate.

[0162] The smoothing hair treatment composition can be in the form of a shampoo, a rinse-off hair conditioner, a hair mask, a leave-in conditioner composition, and a pre-treatment composition. The smoothing hair treatment composition can be in the form of a cream. In an embodiment, the smoothing hair treatment composition is in the form of a cream.

[0163] Other Ingredients

[0164] Smoothing hair treatment compositions can comprise other ingredients for enhancing performance and / or consumer acceptability. Such ingredients include fragrances, dyes and pigments, pH adjusting agents, pearlescers or opacifiers, viscosity modifiers, and preservatives or antimicrobials. Each of these ingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish its purpose. Generally, these optional ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0165] Smoothing hair treatment compositions are primarily intended for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human subject, either in rinse-off or leave-in compositions, for the treatment of dry, damaged and / or unmanageable hair.

[0166] The smoothing hair treatment composition can additionally include up to 30% by weight skin benefit agents. The term “skin benefit agent” is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and youthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both, and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content. Included among the suitable skin benefit agents are emollients, including, for example, hydrophobic emollients, hydrophilic emollients, or blends thereof. Preferred benefit agents include moisturizers, emollients, sunscreens, and anti-aging compounds.

[0167] Desirably the optional skin benefit agents used in the smoothing hair treatment composition disclosed herein include niacinamide (vitamin B3), tocopherol (Vitamin E), aloe vera, alphahydroxy acids and esters, beta-hydroxy acids and esters, hydroxyethyl urea, polyhydroxy acids and esters, creatine, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, mulberry, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof (including, but not limited to, Na+ and K+ salts of the same), extract, liquorice extract, resorcinol derivatives, or a combination thereof. For example, the skin benefit agent can be sodium hyaluronate. Such benefit agents, including sodium hyaluronate can be present in an amount of 0.0001 to 10%, for example, 0.001 to 6.5%, for example, 0.01 to 3.5%, and for example, 0.01 % by weight, based on total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition including any and all values and ranges subsumed therein.

[0168] Further optional water-soluble skin benefit agents include acids, such as amino acids like arginine, valine or histidine. Other vitamins can be used such as vitamin B2, picolinamide, panthenol (vitamin B5), vitamin Be, vitamin C, a combination thereof or the like. Derivatives (generally meaning something that has developed or been obtained from something else), and especially, water soluble derivatives of such vitamins can also be employed. For instance, vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glycoside may be used alone or in combination with each other. Niacinamide derivatives such as nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NADH) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADPH) may be used alone or in combination with each other. Other skin benefit agents that can be used include 4-ethyl resorcinol, extracts like sage, aloe vera, green tea, sugar cane, citrus, grapeseed, thyme, chamomile, yarrow, cucumber, liquorice, rosemary extract, or a combination thereof. Electrolytes such as NaCI and / or KOI, MgCh may also be used. The total amount of optional water-soluble benefit agents (including mixtures) when present in the composition disclosed herein can be 0.0001 to 10%, preferably, 0.001 to 6.5%, and most preferably, 0.01 to 3.5% by weight, based on total weight of the hair treatment composition, including all any and values and ranges subsumed therein.

[0169] It is also within the scope of the hair treatment composition to optionally include oil soluble benefit agents. Illustrative examples of the types of oil soluble benefit agents that can optionally be used in the hair treatment composition disclosed herein include components like stearic acid, vitamins like vitamin A, D, E and K (and their oil soluble derivatives).

[0170] Other optional oil soluble benefit agents for use include resorcinols and resorcinol derivatives like 4-hexyl resorcinol, 4-phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-cyclopentyl resorcinol, 4-cyclohexyl resorcinol

[0171] 4-isopropyl resorcinol or a combination thereof. Also, 5-substituted resorcinols like 4-cyclohexyl-

[0172] 5-methylbenzene-1 ,3-diol, 4-isopropyl-5-methylbenzene-1 ,3-diol, combination thereof or the like may be used. The 5-substituted resorcinols and their synthesis are described in commonly assigned U.S. Patent No. 10,470,986 B2.

[0173] Even other oil soluble benefit agents that can be used include omega-3 fatty acids, omega-6 fatty acids, climbazole, magnolol, honokiol, farnesol, ursolic acid, myristic acid, geranyl geraniol, oleyl betaine, cocoyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, hexanoyl sphingosine, 12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA), petroselinic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, terpineol, thymol essential components, the dissolution auxiliary selected from limonene, pinene, camphene, cymene, citronellol, citronellal, geraniol, nerol, linalool, rhodinol, borneol, isoborneol, menthone, camphor, safrole, isosafrole, eugenol, isoeugenol, tea tree oil, eucalyptus oil, peppermint oil, neem oil, lemon grass oil, orange oil, bergamot oil, or a combination thereof.

[0174] Another optional oil soluble benefit agent that may be used is a retinoic acid precursor. The retinoic acid precursor can be retinol, retinal, retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate or a combination thereof. Retinyl propionate, retinyl palmitate and combinations thereof are typically preferred. Still another retinoic acid precursor for use is hydroxyanasatil retinoate made commercially available under the name RETEXTRA® as supplied by Molecular Design International. The same may be used in a combination with any of the oil soluble benefit agents described herein.

[0175] When an optional (i.e. , 0.0 to 1.5% by weight) oil soluble benefit agent is used in the hair treatment composition, it typically is present in an amount of 0.001 to 1 .5% by weight of the overall hair treatment composition including all values and ranges subsumed therein, and for example, 0.05 to 1.2% by weight, for example, 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

[0176] Other useful skin benefit agents include the following:

[0177] (a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils;

[0178] (b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran, avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, and mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow and lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono, di and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoic acid glyceride;

[0179] (c) waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;

[0180] (d) hydrophobic and hydrophilic plant extracts;

[0181] (e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;

[0182] (f) higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidonic and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PLIFA);

[0183] (g) higher alcohols such as lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, behenyl, cholesterol and 2-hexydecanol alcohol;

[0184] (h) esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate;

[0185] (i) essential oils and extracts thereof such as mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove, hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage, sesame, ginger, basil, juniper, lemon grass, rosemary, rosewood, avocado, grape, grapeseed, myrrh, cucumber, watercress, calendula, elder flower, geranium, linden blossom, amaranth, seaweed, ginko, ginseng, carrot, guarana, tea tree, jojoba, comfrey, oatmeal, cocoa, neroli, vanilla, green tea, penny royal, aloe vera, menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronelle, borneol, linalool, geraniol, evening primrose, camphor, thymol, spirantol, penene, limonene and terpenoid oils;

[0186] (j) polyhydric alcohols, for example, glycerine, sorbitol, propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols, examples of which are: Polyox WSR-205 PEG 14M, Polyox WSR-N-60K PEG 45M, or Polyox WSR-N-750, and PEG 7M; (k) lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957;

[0187] (l) vitamins, minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl esters; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components;

[0188] (m) sunscreens such as octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789);

[0189] (n) phospholipids; and

[0190] (o) anti-aging compounds such as alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids.

[0191] Preferred skin benefit agents include fatty acids, hydrocarbons, polyhydric alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof, with emollients that include at least one C12 to C18 fatty acid, petrolatum, glycerol, sorbitol, and / or propylene glycol being of particular interest in one or more embodiments. The agents may be added at an appropriate step during the process of making the smoothing hair treatment compositions. Some benefit agents may be introduced as macro domains.

[0192] Other optional ingredients like antioxidants, perfumes, polymers, chelating agents, colorants, deodorants, dyes, enzymes, foam boosters, germicides, anti-microbials, lathering agents, pearlescers, skin conditioners, stabilizers, or superfatting agents, may be added in suitable amounts in the process of making the compositions. Sodium metabisulphite, ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid (EDTA), borax, or ethylene hydroxy diphosphonic acid (EHDP) can be added to the formulation.

[0193] Additional optional ingredients which may be present in the hair treatment composition compositions are, for example: fragrances; sequestering and chelating agents such as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA), ethane hydroxyl diphosphonate (EHDP), and etidronic acid, aka 1-hydroxyethylidene diphosphonic acid (HEDP); coloring agents; opacifiers, and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiC>2, ethylene glycol monostearate (EGMS), ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS) or Lytron 621 (Styrene / Acrylate copolymer), and the like; pH adjusters; antioxidants, for example, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and the like; stabilizers; suds boosters, such as for example, coconut acyl mono- or diethanol amides; ionizing salts, such as, for example, sodium chloride and sodium sulfate, and other ingredients such as are conventionally used in hair treatment composition compositions. The total amount of such additional optional ingredients is typically from 0 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition.

[0194] Fragrances, fixatives, opacifiers (like titanium dioxide or glycol distearate), and chelating agents may optionally be included in the smoothing hair treatment composition. Possible chelating agents include, but are not limited to, ethylyene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), pentasodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate, trisodium N-(hydroxyethyl)- ethylenediaminetracetate, an acid form of EDTA, sodium thiocynate, trisodium salt of methylglycinediacetic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and phytic acid, preferably wherein the chelating agent is ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), or a combination thereof. Each of these substances may be present in an amount of about 0.03 to about 3% by weight of the overall smoothing hair treatment composition, preferably, about 0.1 to about 2.6% by weight, including any and all values and ranges subsumed therein.

[0195] The smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can be free from or substantially free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, and / or petrolatum.

[0196] The technical properties of hair change dramatically as a function of moisture content. This occurs because water solvates secondary strength-supporting hydrogen bonds and salt bridges within the hair, which produces a decrease in mechanical properties and a swelling of fiber dimensions. Water acts as a plasticizer to protein structures in hair, reducing its resistance to breakage. The adsorption of water onto hair proteins leads to breakage of hydrogen bonds. Styling is a result of hydrogen bond building / repair such that if the hydrogen bonds are broken the hair’s biomechanical properties and ability to style are hindered.

[0197] The smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein can give damage repair benefits to damaged hair, chemically or mechanically. The hair can be of any type. For example, gluconolactone (which converts to gluconic acid) and carboxylic acid (e.g., citric acid) penetrates into the hair fibers to occlude water adsorption by steric means. Water is a plasticizer of hair, therefore the ability to lower the moisture content should result in higher biomechanical properties. Acids have an affinity for hair and they reduce water uptake (water breaks hydrogen bonds) by binding blocking sites where water would otherwise adsorb.

[0198] The smoothing hair treatment compositions can be applied to the hair a minimum of 1 time. The hair treatment compositions can be applied to the hair 1 time to 5 times, for example, 1 time to 10 times, for example, 1 time to 20 times, for example, 1 time to 25 times.

[0199] Except where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and / or use are to be understood as modified by the word “about.” All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified.

[0200] It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration or amount, any particular upper concentration can be associated with any particular lower concentration or amount as well as any subranges consumed therein. In that regard, it is noted that all ranges disclosed herein are inclusive of the endpoints, and the endpoints are independently combinable with each other (e.g., ranges of “up to 25% by weight, or, more specifically, 5% by weight to 20% by weight, in inclusive of the endpoints and all intermediate values of the ranges of 5% by weight to 25% by weight, etc.). “Combination is inclusive of blends, mixtures, alloys, reaction products, and the like. Furthermore, the terms “first”, “second”, and the like herein do not denote any order, quantity, or importance, but rather are used to distinguish one element from another. The terms “a” and “an” and “the” herein do not denote a limitation of quantity and are to be construed to cover both the singular and the plural, unless otherwise indicated herein or clearly contradicted by context. The suffix “(s)” as used herein is intended to include both the singular and the plural of the term it modifies, thereby including one or more of the term (e.g., the film(s) includes one or more films). Reference throughout the specification to “one embodiment”, “one aspect”, “another embodiment”, “another aspect”, “an embodiment”, “an aspect” and so forth means that a particular element (e.g., feature, structure, and / or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment or aspect is included in at least one embodiment or aspect described herein and may or may not be present in other embodiments or aspects. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments or aspects.

[0201] All cited patents, patent applications, and other references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. However, if a term in the present application contradicts or conflicts with a term in the incorporated reference, the term from the present application takes precedence over the conflicting term from the incorporated reference. While particular aspects have been described, alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents that are or may be presently unforeseen may arise to applicants or others skilled in the art. Accordingly, the appended claims as filed and as they may be amended are intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications, variations, improvements, and substantial equivalents.

[0202] For the avoidance of doubt the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of.” In other words, the listed steps, options, or alternatives need not be exhaustive.

[0203] The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all aspects as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Unless otherwise specified, numerical ranges expressed in the format "from x to y" are understood to include x and y. In specifying any range of values or amounts, any particular upper value or amount can be associated with any particular lower value or amount. All percentages and ratios contained herein are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. The various features of the present invention referred to in individual sections above apply, as appropriate, to other sections mutatis mutandis. Consequently, features specified in one section may be combined with features specified in other sections as appropriate. Any section headings are added for convenience only and are not intended to limit the disclosure in any way. Examples

[0204] The following examples are merely illustrative of the uses of the smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein and are not intended to limit the scope hereof.

[0205] Example I - SMOOTHING HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION PROTECTION AGAINST HEAT DAMAGE TO HAIR VIA DIFFERENTIAL SCANNING CALORIMETRY (DSC)

[0206] In this example, the impact of the smoothing hair treatment composition disclosed herein on Type 4 hair was observed.

[0207] Table 1 : Smoothing Cream Composition

[0208] Substrate

[0209] Single source Walker type 4 hair

[0210] Treatment Groups

[0211] 1. “Repairing” aspect of the smoothing cream

[0212] 5 cells:

[0213] - Virgin hair

[0214] - Bleached hair untreated

[0215] - Bleached hair treated with the smoothing cream (5x)

[0216] - Bleached hair untreated + flat ironed (5x)

[0217] - Bleached hair treated with the smoothing cream + flat ironed (5x)

[0218] 2. “Protection” aspect of the smoothing cream

[0219] 3 cells:

[0220] - Virgin hair (shared with above)

[0221] - Virgin hair + flat ironed (5x)

[0222] - Virgin hair treated with the smoothing cream + flat ironed (5x) Experiments

[0223] Bleaching protocol

[0224] The hair is bleached using Clairol Professional BW2 lightener and Salon Care clear 30 volume developer as follows:

[0225] 1. Powder bleach with developer is mixed in a 13:22 weight ratio to bleach 6 tresses per batch to yield 10 g per tress.

[0226] 2. The mixture is applied evenly using a brush on both sides of the tress, massaged using fingers into the hair.

[0227] 3. The massaged tresses are wrapped in foil and, and tresses are placed into an oven at 40±2°C for 30 minutes.

[0228] 4. The tresses are then washed thoroughly to remove the bleach with manual hand manipulation for 2 minutes under a tap water set at 40°C with a controlled flow rate of 1.0 gram per minute (GPM).

[0229] 5. Hair tresses are blow-dried using medium heat, high-velocity settings.

[0230] 6. After the tresses are dried, one more bleaching cycle of 20 min is performed.

[0231] 7. The bleach is thoroughly washed out of tresses with manual manipulation for 2 minutes under a tap water set at 40°C with a controlled flow rate of 1.0 GPM.

[0232] 8. 0.2 g of 15% SLES is applied per 1 tress of hair. The hair tresses are massaged for 30 seconds (s) and rinsed for 30 s.

[0233] 9. Hair tresses are dialyzed in deionized water for 24 h. Water is constantly stirred and changed twice a day.

[0234] 10. All tresses are dried overnight at 60±2% and 20±2°C.

[0235] Hair treatment protocol

[0236] - Use Suave Clarifying shampoo to standardize hair and to wash between treatment cycles (on damp hair, apply shampoo at 0.1 g / g of hair, massage 30 s, rinse 30 s).

[0237] - On damp hair, apply smoothing cream [or water for control] at 0.3g / g of hair, massage 30 s, leave in, do not rinse.

[0238] - Blow dry with high heat / speed and brush 5-7 times.

[0239] - Flat iron at 210°C (410°F) for 5 passes.

[0240] - Application cycles: 5x DSC testing

[0241] Hair is equilibrated overnight at 60±2% and 20±2°C prior to DSC testing. Two tresses with three replicate per tress are prepared for each treatment group and tested using high-pressure differential scanning calorimeter (DSC25, TA Instruments, New castle, DE, USA).

[0242] Approximately 10 milligrams (mg) of finely chopped hair is placed in a high-pressure DSC pan together with 50 microliters (pl) of DI water. The heating rate is 5°C / min. Denaturation temperature and denaturation enthalpy of each sample are measured. Prior to testing, the instrument is calibrated using an indium standard.

[0243] Statistical analysis

[0244] JMP analytical software version 17.0 is used to calculate the statistics. A one-way analysis of the data is performed on a distribution of Y (AH and Td) for each X (Treatment). The standard student’ s-t test at 95% confidence level, and a = 0.05 is used to do the analysis. If p-value is less than a (0.05), treatments are considered to be statistically different.

[0245] Results

[0246] In the hair science community, the denaturation temperature is used to assess the hair matrix crosslinking density (the higher the denaturation temperature, the more viscous / dense the matrix), and the denaturation enthalpy is used to evaluate the condition of intermediate filaments / keratin crystallites (1 , 2).

[0247] Repair property of the smoothing cream

[0248] The denaturation temperature and enthalpy results of 5x treated hair are presented in Tables 2 & 3.

[0249] Table 2. JMP analysis of denaturation temperature, °C, a=0.05 Levels not connected by the same letter are statically different.

[0250] The statistical analysis shows that the denaturation temperatures of all groups are statistically different from one another. The ranking is as follows: Virgin hair > Bleached hair treated with the smoothing cream > Bleached hair treated with the smoothing cream + flat ironed (5x) > Bleached hair untreated > Bleached hair untreated + flat ironed (5x).

[0251] Table 3. JMP analysis of denaturation temperature, J / g, a=0.05

[0252] Levels not connected by the same letter are statically different.

[0253] Statistical analysis of results suggests that all of the bleached hair have denaturation enthalpies that are lower than those of virgin hair. The denaturation enthalpy of untreated bleached hair is statistically lower than that of other bleached groups. The denaturation enthalpies of ironed and product-treated groups are statistically indifferent.

[0254] Damage prevention property of the smoothing cream

[0255] The denaturation temperature and enthalpy results of 5x treated hair are presented in Table 4 & 5.

[0256] Table 4. JMP analysis of denaturation temperature, °C, a=0.05 Levels not connected by the same letter are statically different.

[0257] The statistical analysis shows that the denaturation temperatures of all groups are statistically different from one another. The ranking is as follows: Virgin hair > Virgin hair treated with the smoothing cream + flat ironed (5x) > Virgin hair + flat ironed (5x).

[0258] Table 5. JMP analysis of denaturation enthalpy, J / g, a=0.05

[0259] Levels not connected by the same letter are statically different.

[0260] Statistical analysis of results suggests that all heat-treated hair have denaturation enthalpies lower than virgin hair. The denaturation enthalpies of heat-treated hair groups are statistically indifferent.

[0261] The smoothing treatment applied on bleached hair five times improves hair crosslinking density (denaturation temperature is statistically higher than bleached hair control).

[0262] Using smoothing treatment on bleached hair for five product applications and heat treatment cycles improves hair crosslinking density (denaturation temperature is statistically higher than that of heat-treated bleached hair control).

[0263] Using smoothing treatment on virgin hair for five product applications and heat treatment cycles improves hair crosslinking density (denaturation temperature is statistically higher than that of heat-treated virgin hair control).

[0264] Example 2 - SMOOTHING HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION APPLICATION

[0265] In this example, the impact of the smoothing hair treatment composition disclosed herein on Type 4 hair was observed. Table 6: Smoothing Cream Composition

[0266] Procedure:

[0267] Tresses were clarified with a Clarifying Shampoo and air dried.

[0268] Before product application, the tresses were wetted with water, treated with the smoothing hair treatment composition with 0.3g product / 1g hair, combed through, blow dried for 1 minute and flat ironed 1 time at 410°F (210°C).

[0269] The treated hair were left in a humidity chamber at 25°C and 80% relative humidity (RH) for 1 hour.

[0270] This process was repeated 1 more time.

[0271] The length and width of the tress were measured after clarified shampoo, treatment, flat iron, and humidity chamber.

[0272] After hair was flat ironed, panel testers visually evaluated the hair on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being the straightest.

[0273] Blank: No formulation applied

[0274] Control: conditioner base (pH adjusted with HCI)

[0275] 1 APPLICATION

[0276] A panel including 6 testers evaluated the hair tress:

[0277] The blank, having an evaluation score of 2.33, and the control, having an evaluation score of 1.50, performed the worst (after flat ironing and humidity chamber), which indicated the smoothing hair treatment compositions disclosed herein ACTUALLY worked to straighten hair. MULTIPLE APPLICATIONS

[0278] The blank had an evaluation score of 1.50. PT 32 had the best results after the 2nd application.

[0279] 5 DAYS (120 HOURS) AT AMBIENT CONDITIONS (22 + / - 1°C, 40% RELATIVE HUMIDITY)

[0280] The blank and control did not hold the straight pattern and became frizzier after 5 days.

[0281] PT 32 held the straightened shape the best.

[0282] Table 7: Evaluation Scores

[0283] AFTER FLAT IRONING

[0284] PT 32 had the least number of passes through the flat iron to straighten the hair and the least amount of frizz after 1 hour in the humidity chamber based upon visual observations. The blank sample needed more than three passes with the flat iron, the control sample needed 2-3 passes, and PT 32 needed only 1 pass of the flat iron to straighten the hair.

[0285] These results were also observed with a % change in length after 1 application of the product and after 2 applications of the product. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0286] Table 8: % Change in Length after application

[0287] Table 9: % Change in Length after application and 1-hour in the humidity chamber A larger % increase after application indicates straighter hair, while a smaller change after 1- hour in the humidity chamber indicates less shrinking and thus, straighter hair. As can be seen from Tables 8 and 9, PT 32 had the largest % change after application and the smallest % change after 1-hour in the humidity chamber, indicating that PT 32 provided the best straightening effect.

[0288] Example 2 - FULL REGIMEN APPLICATION

[0289] The full regimen was applied on the same hair tresses. This included:

[0290] - Shampoo (0.2 g product / g hair)

[0291] - Conditioner (0.3 g product / g hair) Smoothing cream (0.3 g product / g hair) Heat protectant (sprayed)

[0292] Product application: The hair tresses were washed with the shampoo, then the conditioner was applied and rinsed off. The hair tresses were towel dried. When the hair was still damp, the smoothing cream was applied, followed by the heat protectant spray.

[0293] Then the hair tresses were blow dried and flat ironed 1 time at 410°F / 210°C.

[0294] AFTER WASHING

[0295] Washing the hair did not totally remove the straightening effect.

[0296] PT 32 elongated the curls after the hair was washed.

[0297] The technologies: fiber actives with PEC, elastomer with / without silicone replacement delivered straightening result in combination with flat ironing.

[0298] Hair was straighter with multiple applications of the smoothing cream.

[0299] The full regimen enhanced the straightening effect compared to having just the smoothing cream on its own.

[0300] Rinsing out the smoothing cream still left hair straighter and less frizzy.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Use of a smoothing hair treatment composition, wherein the smoothing hair treatment composition comprises- 6.0 to 10% by weight of citric acid and gluconic acid, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition;-10 to 20% by weight of a polyelectrolyte complex, based on the total weight of the smoothing hair treatment composition, , wherein the polyelectrolyte complex comprises a copolymer comprising polyquaternium (PQ) and methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride;- a surfactant selected from an anionic surfactant or a cationic surfactant; and- a preservative; to prevent weakening of hair keratin fibers under heat up to 230°C (450°F); to prevent thermal damage up to 230°C (450° F) to hair keratin fibers; to penetrate and repair chemically damaged hair; to prevent thermal damage on chemically treated hair; to prevent damage from heat in chemically damaged hair; to prevent damage from heat in virgin hair; to increase the denaturization temperature of chemically treated hair either with or without heat compared to a chemically treated hair control; to increase hair crosslinking density on chemically treated hair either with or without heat compared to a chemically treated hair control; to increase hair crosslinking density on heat treated virgin hair compared to a heat treated virgin hair control.

2. The use of Claim 1 , wherein the chemically treated hair is bleached.

3. The use of Claim 1 or Claim 2, wherein the smoothing hair treatment composition is in the form of a cream.

4. The use of any of the preceding claims, wherein the smoothing hair treatment composition is a leave-on treatment composition.

5. The use of any of the preceding claims, wherein the smoothing hair treatment composition is free from sulfate, parabens, phthalate, and petrolatum.

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