Novel cosmetic compositions for damaged skin

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion free of petroleum jelly and paraffin. This composition comprises water, at least one polyol, 45 to 70% by weight of fatty emollient(s), 8 to 15% by weight of factor(s) having a waxy consistency, and at least one emulsifier selected from sucrose fatty acid esters. This composition proves to be particularly effective for repairing damaged skin by topical application.

Description

[0001] NEW COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR INJURED SKIN The present invention falls within the field of dermo-cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the treatment of injured skin, in particular cracked and / or fissured skin.

[0002] More particularly, the present invention relates to a dermatological or dermo-cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular oil-in-water, of the type applicable topically, particularly suitable for the repair of damaged skin. The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for the repair of damaged skin, in particular for the repair of skin lesions such as cracks, fissures and crevices.

[0003] The skin is made up of different tissues that form a vital barrier for the body against the external environment. This barrier protects the body against external aggressions, particularly chemical or mechanical.

[0004] The skin is made up of three main parts: the superficial one, the epidermis, the internal part, the dermis, and a deeper layer, the hypodermis, which interact with each other.

[0005] The human epidermis is composed of four to five distinct layers (depending on the anatomical site) and four types of cells: keratinocytes, which are the vast majority, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. Each of these cell types contributes through its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin, in particular the role of protecting the body against external aggressions. Epidermal cells proliferate at the level of the deepest layer, the basal layer, and differentiate during their migration towards the upper layers to successively form the spinous layer, the granular layer and finally the horny layer (or stratum corneum) which is the most superficial layer of the epidermis.

[0006] The skin thus forms a vital barrier for the body against external attacks, particularly chemical, mechanical or infectious.

[0007] It is clear that the quality of the skin barrier and mucous membranes depends on complex endogenous biological mechanisms involving numerous growth and differentiation factors, adhesion molecules, hormones and lipid metabolism enzymes.

[0008] Thus, an alteration of the skin barrier and / or a break in the continuity of the skin surface can occur in the presence of external aggressions (cold, humidity, etc.), mechanical stresses (friction, shocks, abrasion, tearing of the surface, shaving or hair removal, etc.). Thus, when the skin barrier is damaged, the skin loses its shield, water loss accelerates and, inevitably, the skin dries out or even becomes dehydrated. While transepidermal water loss is a normal phenomenon, dehydration is not. When the hydrolipidic film is altered, it no longer plays its role as a protective barrier and the water contained in the skin then evaporates more.

[0009] Dehydrated skin becomes more fragile, it can no longer withstand overuse, it ends up tearing, creating cracks, fissures, and even crevices.

[0010] Thus, these lesions of the skin and / or mucous membranes, which are cracks, fissures and crevices, result from the combination of intense drying, dehydration and thickening of the epidermis.

[0011] Throughout the remainder of this description, the term skin includes both the skin itself and the mucous membranes. The term cutaneous includes both what relates to the skin and what relates to the mucous membranes.

[0012] For the purposes of this description, the term "damaged skin" is understood to mean, in a conventional manner, an area of ​​skin exhibiting skin lesions, in particular cracks, fissures, and / or crevices.

[0013] For the purposes of this description, the term "crack" means an area of ​​damaged skin, more or less extensive, with a rough appearance, a red color, this area of ​​skin is dry and flaky, with a loss of material due to small superficial cracks.

[0014] For the purposes of this description, the term "fissure" means a skin lesion with a more or less deep furrow, with a loss of material. The cracks can be several millimeters wide, more than one centimeter deep and sometimes even bleed. For the purposes of this description, the term "crevasse" means a skin lesion with a deeper furrow in the skin than a fissure.

[0015] These skin lesions generally appear on certain parts of the skin, most often on areas without hair and exposed to the air, such as the face, especially the lips, the feet, especially the heels, the hands, but also the elbows and knees, the nipples and external intimate areas.

[0016] These skin lesions are more severe and frequent in women, people suffering from obesity and people with diabetes.

[0017] These skin lesions are not only unsightly, they can also cause discomfort such as itching or burning sensations. Furthermore, deep cracks or fissures are an open door to pathogens such as bacteria or fungal spores. If these lesions become infected, they can degenerate and develop into serious skin ulcers.

[0018] There are several dermo-cosmetic composition solutions suitable for this type of skin lesion. One traditional solution is to apply a thick layer of petroleum jelly to the damaged skin area. This ingredient promotes skin self-repair by forming an occlusive film on the skin's surface.

[0019] Solid petroleum jelly or petrolatum gel is thus widely used as a therapeutic agent for topical applications. This therapeutic agent has well-known lubricating, softening, and skin-treating properties, and many dermatologists prescribe it as an effective skin moisturizing and protecting agent for patients with dry or flaky skin. Among the many characteristics of petroleum jelly that make it useful in topical applications are its moisturizing property, water barrier activity, hydrophobicity, resistance to water washout, and chemical stability.

[0020] However, there are disadvantages to adding petroleum jelly to compositions for topical application. These disadvantages include its greasy consistency, its inability to produce a thin film over a large area of ​​skin, and its occlusive nature. It is also unfortunately comedogenic. Finally, its petrochemical origin and its composition (a mixture of hydrocarbons including mineral oil and microcrystalline hydrocarbon waxes) make it an increasingly criticized ingredient. It is also flammable and is regularly suspected of causing skin burns.

[0021] WO 2013 / 174576 describes a cosmetic composition as an alternative to petroleum jelly, based on natural ingredients of plant origin. This composition contains caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, castor oil, glycerin, a waxy consistency factor such as trihydroxystearin or 12-hydroxystearic acid, in a content of 4 or 5% by weight, and 4.5 or 5% by weight of polyglyceryl ricinoleate as an emulsifying agent. It may, in general, contain a small amount of water, from 0 to 5% by weight.

[0022] The present inventors have developed a novel composition useful for the repair of skin lesions, such as skin cracks and fissures, overcoming the disadvantages of prior art compositions containing petrolatum, i.e. a novel composition which, while being free of petrolatum, has sensorial properties at least as good as these prior art compositions containing petrolatum, and has an efficacy as good or even better.

[0023] An additional objective of the invention is that this composition does not contain any, or as little as possible, ingredients of petroleum-based origin.

[0024] Of course, the present invention aims to ensure that this composition is stable, from its manufacture and over time during its storage.

[0025] It has now been discovered that these objectives are achieved by a dermo-cosmetic or dermatological composition combining specific ingredients, some of which are in specific concentrations.

[0026] Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a dermo-cosmetic or dermatological composition applicable topically, in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, and comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0027] - 5 to 10% water, - 10 to 30% polyol(s),

[0028] - 45 to 70% of liquid or solid fatty emollient(s) with a melting point less than or equal to 45°C,

[0029] - 8 to 15% of waxy consistency factor(s), said waxy consistency factor(s) being chosen from solid fatty substances having a melting point above 45°C,

[0030] - 1 to 2.5% of emulsifying agent(s) chosen from sucrose and fatty acid esters, this composition being free of petrolatum and paraffin.

[0031] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase, one of these phases, called the dispersed phase, being dispersed homogeneously in the other of these phases, called the continuous phase, in the form of fine droplets. This emulsion may be of the water-in-oil type. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water type, that is to say in which the oily phase is kept homogeneously dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0032] The composition according to the invention has a particularly good skin repair effect. This effect is felt in particular after only two days of topical application of the composition to the damaged skin, according to an administration dosage of twice a day, and it is exerted in a particularly strong manner after seven days of such treatment. Without prejudging the mechanisms underlying such skin repair effectiveness of the composition according to the invention, it can be thought that it is contributed, on the one hand, by its strong moisturizing power, which is exerted as soon as the composition is absorbed by the skin, which is maximum two hours after application, and which is maintained over a long period, for at least 24 hours after application; and, on the other hand, by its semi-occlusive nature only, allowing the skin to breathe, as opposed to petroleum jelly or paraffin-based compositions, which are highly occlusive.This performance of the composition according to the invention, which is notably linked to its particular water content and waxy consistency factor, is not obtained to the detriment of its sensory properties, which are advantageously very close to those of petroleum jelly.

[0033] Furthermore, it has been discovered by the present inventors that the stability of the composition according to the invention is entirely satisfactory and complies with the prerequisites in the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic field. The emulsion retains its stability, for example, during treatment by centrifugation. Such stability is not obtained in particular for similar compositions, comprising the same ingredients in the same contents, including water and the waxy consistency factor(s), but differing in the emulsifying agent and its content in the composition. In particular, such stability is not obtained for a composition similar to that of the invention, but comprising as emulsifying agent the compound recommended by the aforementioned document WO 2013 / 174576, in the content also recommended by this document, namely polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate at 5% by weight.Thus, the use, as emulsifying agent, of sucrose ester(s) and fatty acid(s), in a content of 1 to 2.5% by weight, alone surprisingly allows the composition according to the invention to achieve a stability that is much better than that of compositions using different emulsifying agents, and also comprising the same constituent ingredients at the same contents as it, and in particular combining 5 to 10% by weight of water and 8 to 15% by weight of waxy consistency factor(s). As indicated above, these latter ingredients in these specific contents contribute significantly to the skin repair performance of the composition, and only the emulsifying agent recommended by the present invention makes it possible to maintain them in emulsion in a stable manner.

[0034] The composition according to the invention comprises from 5 to 10% by weight, preferably 6 to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 6 to 9% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0035] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one polyol.

[0036] According to the present invention, the term "polyol" (also called polyalcohol) means a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyol(s) used according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0037] The polyol(s) used according to the invention may in particular be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. They may in particular be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, polyglycitol, alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0038] Preferably, at least one polyol contained in the composition according to the invention is glycerin. Glycerin may in particular be the only polyol contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0039] The composition according to the invention comprises, in total, from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, for example from 20 to 30% by weight, of polyol(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. It may for example comprise from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, for example from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of glycerin as the only polyol contained in the composition.

[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one waxy consistency factor.

[0041] Conventionally, the term waxy consistency factor is understood to mean a solid fatty substance having a melting point above 45°C. Thus, each waxy consistency factor contained in the composition according to the invention is chosen from solid fatty substances having a melting point above 45°C.

[0042] The composition according to the invention may in particular contain, as waxy consistency factor(s):

[0043] - one or more hydrogenated vegetable oils, for example such as can be found in the commercial material CEGESOFT® HF 52 or CEGESOFT® HF 62, with a melting point greater than 52°C; preferably, hydrogenated vegetable oils having a melting point greater than or equal to 62°C will be chosen within the framework of the invention;

[0044] - and / or one or more other waxy bodies, having a melting point above 45°C, such as glycol palmitate, vegetable waxes (such as carnauba wax, sunflower wax), beeswax or the mixture of tribehenin / glyceryl dibehenate / glyceryl behenate (substances with the INCI name Tribehenin / Glyceryl Dibehenate / Glyceryl behenate) which can be found, among others, in the commercial material COMPRITOL® 888.

[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains, as a waxy consistency factor, a hydrogenated vegetable oil with a melting point strictly above 60°C.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains only one waxy consistency factor.

[0047] In particular embodiments of the invention, at least one, preferably the only, waxy consistency factor contained in the composition according to the invention is a hydrogenated vegetable oil having a melting point greater than 52°C, preferably greater than 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 62°C.

[0048] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains, as the only waxy consistency factor, only a hydrogenated vegetable oil with a melting point strictly above 60°C.

[0049] The total content of waxy consistency factor(s) in the composition is preferably between 4 and 15% by weight, in particular between 5 and 12% by weight, or between 8 and 15% by weight, preferably between 8 and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains, as the sole waxy consistency factor, from 4 to 15% by weight, in particular from 5 to 12% by weight, or from 8 to 15% by weight, preferably between 8 and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a hydrogenated vegetable oil having a melting point greater than 52°C, preferably greater than 60°C and in particular greater than or equal to 62°C.

[0051] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty emollient, also referred to in the present description by the expression oily emollient. An oily emollient is a substance which is of the same nature as oil, that is to say a fatty body, and which may have a liquid or solid consistency at room temperature, and whose melting point is less than or equal to 45°C. It may in particular be an oil or a butter.

[0052] In the present description, the term emollient is understood to mean, in a conventional manner in itself, a compound with hydrating and softening properties for the epidermis, applied topically.

[0053] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises more than one oily emollient, more particularly more than 2 oily emollients and more particularly still more than 3 oily emollients.

[0054] Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least 4 oily emollients.

[0055] The composition according to the invention also preferably contains less than 7 oily emollients. It preferably contains less than 6 oily emollients.

[0056] For example, it contains exactly four oily emollients.

[0057] The composition according to the invention comprises, in total, from 45 to 70% by weight, preferably from 45 to 65% by weight, for example from 45 to 60% by weight, or from 50 to 70% by weight, in particular from 55 to 70% by weight or from 50 to 65% by weight, and for example from 55 to 60% by weight, of oily emollient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] The fatty / oily emollient(s) contained in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from:

[0059] - triglycerides. Triglycerides are molecules composed of three fatty acids linked by an ester bond to a glycerol molecule. The triglycerides suitable for the invention may in particular be chosen from the group comprising triglycerides based on C8-C18 fatty acids, in particular C10-C18 fatty acids, more particularly still the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids; - non-hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as sunflower, safflower, corn, olive, sweet almond, coconut, palm, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, avocado, jojoba, borage, rapeseed, wheat germ, evening primrose flax, argan, calendula and cotton oils; jojoba oil is particularly preferred in the context of the invention, which advantageously benefits from its consistency which mimics the sebum of the skin;

[0060] - solid fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to, preferably strictly less than, 45°C, such as butters, for example shea butter, cupuaçu butter, cocoa butter;

[0061] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2, in which Ri represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, citrate triisocetyl, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates, polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate,and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;,

[0062] - and their mixtures.

[0063] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty / oily emollient(s) are not waxes, the waxes being characterized by a melting point above 45°C.

[0064] Preferably, at least one fatty / oily emollient present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from triglycerides, in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides.

[0065] The total triglyceride content then preferably represents, by weight, at least 65%, more preferably at least 70%, preferentially at least 75%, more preferentially at least 78%, and even more preferentially at least 80%, of the total weight of fatty / oily emollient(s) contained in the composition.

[0066] Also preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises as fatty / oily emollient at least one substance chosen from butters, in particular Shea butter and / or Cupuaçu butter.

[0067] Also preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as fatty / oily emollients, at least two substances chosen from butters, in particular Shea butter and Cupuaçu butter.

[0068] Preferably, the total content of substance(s) chosen from butters represents from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 7 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of fatty / oily emollient(s) contained in the composition.

[0069] Also preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises as fatty / oily emollient at least one non-hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular jojoba oil.

[0070] Preferably, the total content of non-hydrogenated vegetable oil(s) represents from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, and preferentially from 8 to 12% by weight, of the total weight of fatty / oily emollient(s) contained in the composition.

[0071] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises as fatty / oily emollient at least triglycerides, in particular the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, and at least one butter, in particular Shea butter and / or Cupuaçu butter.

[0072] Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises as fatty / oily emollient at least triglycerides, in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, and at least one non-hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular jojoba oil.

[0073] Even more preferably, the composition comprises, as fatty / oily emollient, at least triglycerides, in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, at least one butter, in particular shea butter, and at least one non-hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular jojoba oil. In the particular embodiments of the invention in which the composition contains at least four oily emollients, preferably, these four oily emollients consist of a substance chosen from triglycerides, in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, two substances chosen from butters, in particular shea butter and cupuaçu butter, and a non-hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular jojoba oil.

[0074] Thus, in particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises, as fatty / oily emollient, at least triglycerides, in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, at least two butters, in particular shea butter and cupuaçu butter, and at least one non-hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular jojoba oil.

[0075] In such embodiments, preferably:

[0076] - the content of triglycerides, in particular triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, in the composition represents, by weight, 65 to 92%, preferably 70 to 92%, more preferably 75 to 92%, preferentially 78 to 92% and even more preferentially 80 to 92%, relative to the total weight of the fatty / oily emollients,

[0077] - the content of butters, in particular Shea butter and Cupuaçu butter, in the composition represents from 3 to 15% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, and preferentially from 7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty / oily emollients,

[0078] - and / or the content of non-hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular jojoba oil, in the composition represents from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, and preferentially from 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty / oily emollients.

[0079] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emulsifying agent chosen from esters of sucrose and fatty acid(s).

[0080] According to the present invention, the ester of sucrose and fatty acid(s) is preferably chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose(s) (saccharose) and fatty acid(s) comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0081] These fatty acids comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0082] They can be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0083] In particular embodiments of the invention, an ester of sucrose and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose and a fatty acid comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid and / or palmitic acid and / or stearic acid.

[0084] At least one ester of sucrose and fatty acid(s) contained in the composition according to the invention is preferably sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or sucrose stearate. The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise a mixture of two or three of these substances.

[0085] In particular embodiments of the invention, at least one emulsifying agent chosen from the esters of sucrose and fatty acid(s) contained in the composition is sucrose laurate, as notably contained in the product marketed under the name Sucragel® CF.

[0086] Sucrose laurate may in particular be the only emulsifying agent chosen from the esters of sucrose and fatty acid(s) contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0087] In particular alternative embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises sucrose laurate in admixture with either sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, or a mixture of sucrose palmitate and sucrose stearate.

[0088] In the embodiments of the invention in which the composition contains, as emulsifying agents, sucrose laurate in a mixture with one or more other sucrose and fatty acid esters, preferably, the sucrose laurate content is greater than 50% by weight, preferably greater than 65% by weight, and more preferably greater than 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of sucrose and fatty acid esters contained in the composition. The total content of sucrose and fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the invention is between 1 and 2.5% by weight, preferably between 1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition does not comprise emulsifying agents other than the sucrose ester(s) and fatty acid(s).

[0090] The composition according to the invention is furthermore free of paraffin (INCI name: paraffinum liquidum) and free of petrolatum.

[0091] According to the present invention, the term "free from" an ingredient means that the composition contains less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, of this ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, or, even more preferably, that it does not contain this ingredient.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of gelling and / or thickening agents.

[0093] Gelling and / or thickening agents are understood to mean an agent selected from the group consisting of alginates, carrageenans, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The composition according to the invention is preferably free of silicone. For the purposes of the present invention, silicone, or polysiloxane, conventionally in itself, denotes any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear and / or cyclic, branched and / or crosslinked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms, hydrocarbon radicals, optionally substituted, in particular by hydroxyl groups, being directly linked by a carbon atom to these silicon atoms. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is furthermore preferably free of phenoxyethanol, suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.

[0095] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of alpha hydroxy acids known as AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids). These are carboxylic acids, derived mainly from fruit sugars. The main fruit acids are lactic, malic, glycolic, citric and tartaric acids. AHAs promote skin exfoliation, so these ingredients should be avoided in compositions intended to be applied to damaged skin, particularly skin with cracks and / or fissures.

[0096] Preferably, all substances having exfoliating properties, such as retinoids, are also avoided in the composition according to the invention.

[0097] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more preservatives, or be free of them.

[0098] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of essential oil. Indeed, most essential oils contain allergens, sources of irritation and skin intolerance. Dyes with the same characteristics are preferably also avoided for similar reasons.

[0099] More generally, the composition according to the invention is preferably free of monoalcohol, perfume, colorant and / or essential oil.

[0100] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0101] The composition according to the invention may further contain any additive / excipient conventional in itself for a dermatological or dermo-cosmetic composition, and, like all the other ingredients of the composition according to the invention, dermatologically and / or dermo-cosmetically acceptable. This means, in a manner conventional in itself, that these ingredients are suitable for use by contacting with human and animal skin cells, and that they do not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from the composition. In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition according to the invention has a Brookfield dynamic viscosity at 25°C ± 2°C greater than or equal to 13,000 mPa.s, preferably between 13,000 and 60,000 mPa.s, and for example between 15,000 and 40,000 mPa.s.This viscosity can be measured, for example, using a Brookfield viscometer by applying the following parameters: spindle 5, speed 100 rpm, for 1 minute.

[0102] The composition according to the invention may additionally contain one or more active agents. Each such active agent may consist of any active ingredient with dermatological, cosmetic and / or dermo-cosmetic properties. It may be chosen from natural products, in particular plant extracts, extracts derived from biotechnologies, such as plant cell or microalgae cultures, chemical products, or even postbiotics, or any combination thereof.

[0103] The concentration of dermo-cosmetic and / or dermatological active agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may, for example, be between 0.01 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Preferably, the composition comprises as active agent hyaluronic acid or one of its dermatologically and / or dermocosmetically acceptable salts. A salt of hyaluronic acid that can be used according to the invention is in particular an alkaline salt and may in particular be chosen from sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate. It is preferably sodium hyaluronate.

[0105] Preferably, the hyaluronic acid has a high molecular weight, that is to say a molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, advantageously greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, and more advantageously from 1000 to 2000 kDa, and even more advantageously from 1000 to 1500 kDa.

[0106] Examples of such hyaluronic acid include hyaluronic acid supplied by Givaudan under the trade name CRISTALHYAL®, with a molecular weight of 1 to 1.5 MDa.

[0107] Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition further comprises hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, in particular between 1000 and 2000 kDa, or between 1000 and 1500 kDa, or one of its salts.

[0108] The main property of hyaluronic acid is its hydrophilicity. Hyaluronic acid is an exceptional water trapper since each molecule can absorb 500 to 1000 times its volume of water, which explains its strong volumizing properties. Thus, high molecular weight hyaluronic acid significantly hydrates and contributes to skin healing by stimulating regeneration and maintaining a moisture level essential for this healing.

[0109] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition further comprises, as active agent, an oat extract, in particular from aerial parts of oats. Preferably, the oat extract is obtained from oat seedlings, and preferably as described in application WO 2010 / 054879, i.e. an extract of aerial part(s) of oats excluding the seeds, characterized by 2 to 15% by weight of flavonoids and 0.2 to 2% by weight of avenacosides A and B. Such an oat extract has anti-inflammatory activity and helps with skin healing.

[0110] Healing agents may also be present in the composition according to the invention, alone or in combination, such as for example madecassoside, panthenol, allantoin, zinc sulfate, Aloe vera extracts or honey, or the healing complex described in application WO 2014 / 167039, comprising L-alanyl-L-glutamine, hyaluronic acid or one of its salts and an oat extract.

[0111] The composition according to the invention may be in any conventional form in itself, this form being suitable for topical application to the skin (including mucous membranes), in particular human or animal skin. It may in particular, but not limited to, be in the form of a fluid emulsion, a rich emulsion, a cream, a milk, a serum, an ointment or a balm.

[0112] The composition according to the invention is intended more particularly for topical application, on any area of ​​damaged skin, in particular on the skin of the face, on the lips, on the skin of the feet, in particular on the heel, of the hands, but also of the elbows and knees, on the nipples and on the external intimate areas.

[0113] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the repair of damaged skin, this use comprising the topical application of the composition to the area of ​​damaged skin. The skin may be that of a mammal, in particular a human.

[0114] By repair of damaged skin, it is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, the alleviation of at least one of the physical signs of the damaged skin such as redness, roughness, dryness, edema, desquamation.

[0115] The composition according to the invention can in particular be used for the repair of skin lesions such as cracks, fissures and / or skin crevices.

[0116] The composition according to the invention can for example be applied topically, to an area of ​​damaged skin of the subject concerned, such as the skin of the face, feet, in particular the heel, hands, elbows, knees, lips, nipples and / or external intimate areas, in an effective amount, once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, and for example for a period of between 1 week and 1 month or more. As explained above, the repair of the damaged skin is visible after two days of treatment, and is significant after four days of treatment.

[0117] The application of the composition according to the invention may in particular consist of spreading the composition over the entire surface of the injured area, for example at a rate of 2 g / cm 2 of skin.

[0118] The invention is also expressed in terms of a method for the therapeutic treatment of an injured area of ​​skin of a subject, in particular a human, for the repair of this injured area of ​​skin, this method comprising the topical application, to this injured area of ​​skin, of an effective amount of a composition according to the invention.

[0119] This method may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for the repair of damaged skin. The present invention also relates to a method for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​damaged skin of a subject, in particular a human, for the repair of this area of ​​damaged skin, by topical application, to this area of ​​damaged skin, of an effective amount of a composition according to the invention.

[0120] Here again, this method can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for the repair of damaged skin.

[0121] Another subject of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the repair of an injured area of ​​skin of a subject, in particular a human. This use comprises the topical application of this composition to this injured area of ​​skin. It may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for the repair of injured skin.

[0122] The characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly in light of the implementation examples below, provided for purely illustrative purposes and in no way limiting the invention.

[0123] 1 / Example 1 - Occlusion test

[0124] The study involves measuring water loss in a glass container sealed with filter paper held in place by Parafilm® plastic film and on which the product to be tested is placed. In more detail, the protocol is as follows:

[0125] - 80 ± 0.05 mL of water is weighed into a Kola glass bottle using a balance,

[0126] - a filter paper is placed on the bottle, smooth side visible at the top of the bottle,

[0127] - the filter paper is folded and wrapped with Parafilm® film,

[0128] - 0.5 g of the product to be tested is placed on the filter paper using a pipette, taking care to spread the product over the entire filter paper, and the bottle is weighed: the value obtained is called T0,

[0129] - all samples are placed in a study at 30°C,

[0130] - after 72 hours, the bottles are weighed again: the value obtained is called T72product. A negative control without product is also carried out. The final mass of the bottle equipped with only filter paper is then called T72white.

[0131] For each tested product, the occlusion factor F is calculated by the mathematical equation (1):

[0132] This occlusion factor F is therefore between 0 and 100, the value of 100 corresponding to a total occlusive effect.

[0133] Several products are thus tested, with 3 repetitions for each:

[0134] - pure petroleum jelly (Gifrer petroleum jelly), 0 - a composition in accordance with the invention (Composition 1), as described in Table 1 below,

[0135] - a composition containing paraffin, not in accordance with the invention (Composition 2), which is a commercial skin repair balm, containing the following ingredients (INCI names): Paraffinum Liquidum, Cera5 Microcristallina, Ceresin, Lanolin Alcohol, (Eucerit), Panthenol, Glycerin, Bisabolol.

[0136] Table 1 - Composition 1 in accordance with the invention

[0137] The values ​​of the occlusion factor F obtained for each of the products tested, and for the negative control, are indicated in Table 2.

[0138] Table 2 - Occlusion factor F

[0139] Vaseline and Composition 2 (without vaseline but with paraffin) both have a very high occlusion factor F, revealing a total occlusion, thus forming an almost impermeable layer. On the contrary, Composition 1 according to the invention has an intermediate occlusion factor F, i.e. a very interesting semi-occlusive character, because the composition according to the invention forms a protective but not completely impermeable film, which allows the skin to breathe and promotes its repair.

[0140] 2 / Example 2 - Sensory profiles of Composition 1 and petroleum jelly

[0141] The aim of this test is to compare the sensory characteristics of Composition 1 according to the invention with those of Gifrer Vaseline.

[0142] The evaluation is carried out monadic by 15 volunteers trained in the sensory technique for topical compositions. Three phases of evaluation are carried out: upon application of 0.5 mL of Composition 1 or Gifrer Vaseline to the skin of each forearm of the volunteer, and 5 minutes after and 15 minutes after application.

[0143] The tests are carried out in a room where the lighting, temperature and humidity are monitored.

[0144] Different criteria are evaluated and are detailed in Table 3 (for phase (1): upon application) and Table 4 (for phases (2) and (3): respectively 5 min and 15 min after application).

[0145] Table 3 - Descriptive criteria for phase (1): application

[0146] Table 4 - Descriptive criteria for phases (2) and (3): 5 min and 15 min after application

[0147] A computer questionnaire presents unstructured analog measurement scales from 0 to 100, for each of the descriptive criteria of the different phases on the computer screen.

[0148] The results of the evaluation carried out are summarized in Table 5 below.

[0149] Table 5 - Sensory analysis results for petroleum jelly and Composition 1 according to the invention

[0150] It should be noted that the sensory analysis results of these two products are similar. For the majority of the descriptive criteria, the composition according to the invention has the characteristics of petroleum jelly, such as thickness, an oily, film-forming feel, and a shiny appearance. The residual sensations after spreading are not significantly different.

[0151] However, compared to petroleum jelly, the composition according to the invention presents significant and advantageous differences on some descriptor criteria. In particular, the composition according to the invention is more opaque and has a less sticky feel.

[0152] 3 / Example 3 - Sensory profiles of Composition 1 and Composition 2

[0153] The aim of this test is to compare the sensory characteristics of Composition 1 according to the invention with those of the control composition, Composition 2 (without petroleum jelly but with paraffin).

[0154] The test is carried out in a similar way to that described in Example 2. The same descriptor criteria are evaluated, and an additional criterion is added: spreadability (ease of the product to spread without resistance on the skin).

[0155] The results obtained are summarized in Table 6 below.

[0156] Table 6 - Sensory analysis results for Composition 1 in accordance with the invention and the composition with paraffin (Composition 2)

[0157] It turns out that upon application, Composition 1 according to the invention presents numerous significant and advantageous differences with Composition 2: it is more opaque, less thick and less crunchy between the fingers, less shiny and it has a much less sticky feel.

[0158] The residual sensations after spreading are also significantly different: Composition 1 has a less sticky, less resistant feel, it is less film-forming, leaving the skin more supple.

[0159] The inventors thus show that the composition according to the invention has sensory characteristics closer to pure petroleum jelly than the comparative composition comprising paraffin (without petroleum jelly), particularly in terms of residual sensations after spreading.

[0160] The inventors have therefore succeeded in developing a composition without petroleum jelly or paraffin, which nevertheless has a sensory quality very close to petroleum jelly.

[0161] 4 / Example 4 - Clinical evaluation of a moisturizing effect of Composition 1 according to the invention

[0162] The skin hydration capacity of Composition 1 in accordance with the invention is determined. To do this, a study measuring a skin hydration index is carried out on 31 subjects.

[0163] An application of 2 g / cm 2 of Composition 1 is carried out on an area of ​​skin of the forearm of approximately 3.5 x 4.3 cm of each subject. The composition is applied using a latex finger cot, massaging the area until completely absorbed.

[0164] Skin capacitance is measured by corneometry. The corneometer is a simple device which, when applied to the skin, measures its dielectric capacity using a capacitor. This is directly linked to its hydration state. These measurements are carried out at different times (before application of the composition: TO; immediately after application, i.e. approximately 15 min after: Timm; then at 1 h (+ 1 h), 2 h (+ 2 h), 4 h (+ 4 h), 6 h (+ 6 h) and 24 h (+ 24 h) after application) on the skin of the test subjects. Measurements are also carried out at the same time on these same subjects but on an area that has not received any product application (control data), allowing statistical comparisons to be made.

[0165] The results presented in Table 7 below show the percentage increase in the hydration index compared to TO (before application of the composition). A statistical analysis of covariance on repeated measurements is carried out, the results are also presented in this Table 7.

[0166] Table 7 - Increase in the skin hydration index after topical application of Composition 1 in accordance with the invention

[0167] It therefore appears that the composition according to the invention is highly moisturizing, from its complete absorption and for at least 24 hours, with a peak moisturizing effect of +70% at 2 hours after application.

[0168] It should be noted that no adverse effects were noted, thus revealing the excellent tolerance of the composition according to the invention. 5 / Example 5 - Clinical evaluation of the skin repairing effect of Composition 1 according to the invention

[0169] This study was conducted on 25 adult subjects aged 18 to 65. All of these subjects had skin lesions, such as cracks, fissures or crevices.

[0170] The study lasts 22 days. Five visits are scheduled during this period. Skin lesions are examined by a dermatologist who assesses them using a clinical score. The exact procedure for the study is as follows:

[0171] - 1 er day (D1): inclusion of subjects in the study,

[0172] - Composition 1 is applied from 2 ème day (D2), for a period of 21 days, twice a day (application of approximately 2 g / cm 2 of the composition on the damaged skin area),

[0173] - other visits are carried out on the 3rd ème day (D3), 5 ème day (D5), 8 ème day (D8) and 22 ème day (D22, end of study).

[0174] Patients also assess these lesions themselves and can thus judge the effectiveness of the tested composition.

[0175] The results obtained, concerning the effectiveness of the composition as a skin repairer, are summarized in Table 8 below, showing the percentage of patients satisfied or not, during the study, on this criterion of effectiveness. the invention on the repair of skin lesions, expressed as a % of patients for each degree of effectiveness

[0176] This table clearly shows that patients with skin cracks or fissures find the composition according to the invention effective in skin repair. They also find it increasingly effective during treatment. After only 4 days of treatment, more than one in three patients consider the composition according to the invention to be very effective.

[0177] The clinical score of physical cutaneous signs (redness, edema, desquamation, etc.) is assessed by the dermatologist in patients presenting cracks or fissures during visits. The improvement of these criteria is summarized in Table 9 below.

[0178] Table 9 - Evaluation by the dermatologist of the effectiveness of Composition 1 according to the invention on the repair of skin lesions

[0179] These results are very revealing about the improvement of physical signs in patients with skin cracks or fissures.

[0180] After only 4 days of treatment with the composition according to the invention, a 66% improvement in physical signs is thus demonstrated.

[0181] All of these results demonstrate that the inventors have developed a new composition without petroleum jelly or paraffin, highly moisturizing, having a beneficial effect on skin cracks and / or fissures, while maintaining a sensoriality close to petroleum jelly. The composition according to the invention therefore has all the advantages of petroleum jelly and without its disadvantages.

[0182] 6 / Example 6 - Stability of compositions

[0183] This experiment is carried out on a composition in accordance with the invention C1, and two comparative compositions, which differ only in the emulsifier used and its content: Compl and Comp2.

[0184] The formulas of these compositions are indicated in Table 10, their contents being expressed in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0185] Table 10 - Formula of a composition C1 in accordance with the invention and of non-compliant comparative compositions Compl and Comp2

[0186] The stability of these compositions was evaluated. The results obtained are as follows. a / Macroscopic appearance

[0187] The observation of the 3 tested compositions shows the following aspects for each of the compositions:

[0188] - C1: shiny preparation, appearance similar to Vaseline, satisfactory visual appearance;

[0189] - Compl: preparation not smooth, no appearance similar to Vaseline, visual aspect not satisfactory;

[0190] - Comp2: granular preparation, with wax clumps, the emulsion is not stable from the time of manufacture, unsatisfactory visual appearance. b / Centrifugation test

[0191] Compositions C1 and Compl were centrifuged at 900 g for 1 h.

[0192] We observe that:

[0193] - C1 does not show destabilization of the emulsion;

[0194] - Compl shows destabilization of the emulsion (creaming, drops are concentrated on the surface).

[0195] Thus, only composition C1 in accordance with the invention showed satisfactory results in the stability tests.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Dermo-cosmetic or dermatological composition applicable topically, in the form of an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - 5 to 10% water, - 10 to 30% polyol(s), - 45 to 70% of liquid or solid fatty emollient(s) with a melting point less than or equal to 45°C, - 8 to 15% of waxy consistency factor(s) chosen from solid fatty substances with a melting point above 45°C, - 1 to 2.5% of emulsifying agent(s) chosen from sucrose and fatty acid esters, said composition being free of petrolatum and paraffin.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which at least one fatty emollient is chosen from triglycerides.

4. Composition according to claim 3, in which the total triglyceride content represents at least 75% by weight of the total weight of fatty emollient(s).

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which at least one fatty emollient is a substance chosen from butters.

6. Composition according to claim 5, in which the total content of substance(s) chosen from butters represents from 5 to 10% by weight of the total weight of fatty emollient(s).

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising at least four fatty emollients.

8. Composition according to claim 7, in which said four fatty emollients consist of a substance chosen from triglycerides, two substances chosen from butters and a non-hydrogenated vegetable oil.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which at least one waxy consistency factor is a hydrogenated vegetable oil having a melting point above 52°C.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in which at least one emulsifying agent chosen from esters of sucrose and fatty acid(s) is sucrose laurate.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, free from gelling and / or thickening agent.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, or one of its salts.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, having a Brookfield dynamic viscosity at 25°C greater than or equal to 13000 mPa.s.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, free from monoalcohol, perfume, colorant and / or essential oil.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, for its use in the repair of damaged skin.

16. Composition for use according to claim 15, for repairing cracks, fissures and / or crevices in the skin.

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