Customized formulations

Abstract

The present disclosure relates to the production of cosmetic formulations with specified target properties. Disclosed are methods, apparatuses, systems for determining the stability of the formulation and specified target properties as well as generating formulation data for producing the formulation. Further disclosed are cosmetic products and cosmetic formulations produced based on the generated formulation control data.

Description

[0001] CUSTOMIZED FORMULATIONS

[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0003] The present disclosure relates to the production of cosmetic formulations with specified target properties. Disclosed are methods, apparatuses, systems for determining the stability of the formulation and specified target properties as well as generating formulation data for producing the formulation. Further disclosed are cosmetic products and cosmetic formulations produced based on the generated formulation control data.

[0004] TECHNICAL BACKGROUND

[0005] Cosmetic formulations in beauty and personal care are highly complex to produce. For example, depending on the formulation ingredients the properties of the formulation may vary. Further for example, in view of the multitude of ingredients available, the multitude of properties formulations must fulfill, and the multitude of cosmetics products manufactured particularly on small or even personalized scale, reliable formulation production has become a challenging task.

[0006] WO2021 / 180922A1 discloses systems, methods, and computer program products for determining performance properties of an oil-containing and / or the surfactant-containing product.

[0007] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0008] In one aspect disclosed is a method for determining one or more stable formulation(s) or a stability of one or more formulation(s), wherein the formulation includes one or more ingredient(s), the method comprising the steps of: providing one or more formulation specification (s), wherein the formulation specification is related to an ingredient combination, determining at least one stability property by providing the one or more formulation specification (s) to a data- driven model, wherein the data-driven model is configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification (s) and at least one corresponding stability property as measured for one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification(s), providing the at least one stability property per formulation specification for the one or more formulation(s), wherein the at least one stability property indicates the stability of the corresponding formulation.

[0009] In another aspect disclosed is an apparatus for determining one or more stable formulation(s) or a stability of one or more formulation(s), wherein the formulation includes one or more ingredient(s), the apparatus comprising: an input interface configured to provide one or more formulation specification(s), wherein the formulation specification related to an ingredient combination, an execution engine configured to determine at least one stability property by providing the one or more formulation specification (s) to a data-driven model, wherein the data-driven model is configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification(s) and at least one corresponding stability property as measured for one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification (s), an output interface configured to provide the at least one stability property per formulation specification for the one or more formulation(s), wherein the at least one stability property indicates the stability of the corresponding formulation e.g. to be produced according to the formulation specification.

[0010] According to an example aspect, an apparatus is disclosed, configured to perform and / or control or comprising respective means for performing and / or controlling the method according to any example aspect. According to a further example aspect, an apparatus is disclosed comprising at least one processor; and at least one memory storing instructions that, when executed by the at least one processor, cause the first apparatus at least to perform the method according to any example aspect.

[0011] In another aspect disclosed is the use of the one or more formulation specification (s) provided based on the at least one stability property and / or the at least one target property according to the methods or by the apparatuses disclosed herein for producing a formulation according to the provided formulation specification (s) .

[0012] In another aspect disclosed is a method for producing the formulation according to the one or more formulation specifications) provided based on the at least one stability property and / or the at least one target property according to the methods or by the apparatuses disclosed herein.

[0013] In another aspect disclosed is a system comprising an apparatus configured to determine one or more stable formulation specification(s) according to the methods or by the apparatuses disclosed herein and a production apparatus configured to produce the formulation according to the determined one or more stable formulation specification (s).

[0014] In another aspect disclosed is a formulation, in particular a sunscreen formulation or an emulsion, produced, e.g. by the apparatuses and systems disclosed herein, according to the one or more formulation specification(s) provided based on the at least one stability property and / or the at least one target property, e.g. according to the methods or by the apparatuses disclosed herein.

[0015] In another aspect disclosed is computer element with instructions, which when executed by a computing apparatus perform the steps according to the methods or as defined by the apparatuses disclosed herein.

[0016] EMBODIMENTS

[0017] Any disclosure and embodiments described herein relate to the methods, the apparatuses, the systems, the uses, the formulations, and the computer elements lined out above and below and vice versa. Advantageously, the benefits provided by any of the embodiments and examples equally apply to all other embodiments and examples. In the following, embodiments of the present disclosure will be outlined by ways of embodiments and / or example. It is to be understood that the present disclosure is not limited to said embodiments and / or examples. All terms and definitions used herein are understood broadly and have their general meaning, if not indicated otherwise.

[0018] The methods, the apparatuses, the systems, the uses, the formulations, and the computer elements disclosed herein provide an efficient, secure, and reliable way for producing formulations, in particular beauty, personal care or cosmetic formulations. By determining the stability of the formulation in a data-driven manner from the formulation specification, stable formulations may be produced according to the formulation specification. The formulation specification may hence be viewed as formulation control data suitable for producing a formulation. The formulation specification may be provided to a user for guiding the production process or to a production apparatus for producing the formulation.

[0019] In addition, to the stability of the formulation the formulation design for production process may be further guided by specifying formulation target properties. This way reliable tailoring of the formulation to the customer needs, or the application of the formulation may be provided. For example, the formulator of a formulation may be the user providing the input such as the formulation specification through an interactive user interface. The methods, the apparatuses, the systems, the uses, the formulations, and the computer elements disclosed herein determine if the formulation produced according to the formulation specification is stable and optionally further chemical, physical, microbiological, functional and / or sensorial properties such as its viscosity / rheological properties. Further for example the formulator of a formulation may be the user providing the input such as the preferred choice of ingredients like emollients or emulsifiers. The methods, the apparatuses, the systems, the uses, the formulations, and the computer elements disclosed herein determines stable formulation specifications or recipes that satisfy the selected ingredients. Further for example the formulator of a formulation may be the user providing the input such as a range of sensory and viscosity desired. The methods, the apparatuses, the systems, the uses, the formulations, and the computer elements disclosed herein determine stable formulation specifications or recipes that fulfill the properties as provided by the user. Further for example the formulator of a formulation like a sunscreen may be the user providing the input such as a desired formulation and the simulator calculates if it is stable and further properties such as its naturalness, sun protection factor and viscosity. Further for example the formulator of a formulation may be the user providing the input such as the preferred choice of UV filters and emollients. The methods, the apparatuses, the systems, the uses, the formulations, and the computer elements disclosed herein determines stable formulation specifications or recipes along with sun protection factor and viscosity determinations. Further for example, formulation specifications of sunscreens that would result in desired viscosity and sun protection factor range and are stable may be generated and produced and / or are free from crystals produced by the dissolution of solid UV filters in the formulation. Further for example, formulation specifications of sunscreens that are free from crystals produced by the dissolution of solid UV filters in the formulation may be generated and produced.

[0020] The stability of one or more formulation(s) may be tested by experimental tests. Stability tests may aim at assessing the ability of the formulation to maintain the desired physical, chemical, microbiological, functionality and / or sensorial properties when stored and / or used under conditions commonly occurring during storage and / or usage. The stability test may determine a shelf life of the formulation. The stability test may determine any customer safety related property of the formulation. The stability test may evaluate whether the formulation in the package is stable when subjected to the conditions commonly occurring during storage and / or usage. Under conditions commonly occurring during storage and / or usage may relate to any stage during the formulation lifetime such as transportation, storage and / or conditions during use. The stability test may test the formulations behavior over time and / or depending on changes or variations in the environment of the formulation. The stability test may test the formulations based on one or more stability criteria that may determine if the formulation is stable or not. The stability property may relate to one or more measured stability criteria and signify a categorical property based on the formulation being stable or not.

[0021] The stability property may relate to one or more measured stability criteria and signify a numerical property determining a degree of stability of the formulation. One stability criterion may relate to or include amongst others crystallization or the formation of crystals.

[0022] The stability property may relate to or depend on measured stability criteria over time such as crystal formation. The stability property may reflect the behavior of the formulation to be produced or produced according to the formulation specification. The formulation target property may relate to one or more performance measures of the formulation to be produced or produced according to the formulation specification. The formulation target property may relate to additional properties of the formulation to be produced or produced according to the formulation specification. The formulation target property may relate to properties of the formulation to be produced or produced according to the formulation specification in addition to the stability property. The formulation target property may relate to properties of the formulation to be produced or produced according to the formulation specification different to the stability property.

[0023] The formulation specification may be associated with the production of the formulation. The formulation specification may relate to a digital representation of the formulation recipe. The formulation specification may include instructions for producing the formulation. The ingredient combination may be associated with the ingredients to be used for producing the formulation. The ingredient combination may relate to the ingredients to be included in the formulation. The ingredient combination may include the ingredients to be included into the formulation and / or the quantity such as amount of ingredient to be included in the formulation. The ingredient combination may include the ingredients to be included into the formulation and the quantity such as amount per ingredient to be included in the formulation. The formulation specification (s) may include the ingredients and the quantity per ingredient. The formulation specifica- tion(s) may signify the ingredients by labelling one or more ingredient(s) of a pre-defined list of ingredients to be included into the formulation. The formulation specification(s) may signify the quantity per ingredient by a numeric value of the quantity to be included into the formulation. The formulation specification (s) may relate to one or more formulation types specifying the base formulation such as water-in-oil, oil-in water, cream, gel, serum, mist, spray or the like. The formulation specification (s) may relate to one or more application types specifying the application of the formulation such as Skin care, sun care, hair care, body care, oral care, hair, body, skin, sun, face, oral or the like. The formulation specification may include formulation type and / or application type. The formulation specification may include or relate to ingredient combination associated with the formulation type and / or application type. The formulation specification may relate to a pre-defined set of ingredients that may be combined to form a formulation. The formulation specification may specify the formulation by flagging the ingredients of the pre-defined set of ingredients to be included in the formulation, e.g. via a Boolean 1 or 0 flag.

[0024] The formulation specified by the formulation specification may relate to formulation component(s) including any ingre- dient(s) used to produce the formulation. The formulation specification may relate to or specify formulation components such as base formulation, and / or active ingredient(s). The formulation component may include a base formulation or an active ingredient. The formulation components may make up the formulation. The formulation component may include a base formulation to which one or more active ingredient(s) are to be added according to the formulation specification. The base formulation may include one or more formulation ingredients. The formulation component may include one or more active ingredient(s) to be added to the base formulation according to the formulation specification. The formulation components may relate to different sets of active ingredient(s), which may be comprised in base formulation. The formulation component may relate to at least first active ingredient(s) included in base formulation. The formulation component may relate to at least second active ingredient(s) included in base formulation.

[0025] The formulation specification may relate to or specify the ingredients of the base formulation. The base formulation may include one or more formulation ingredients. The base formulation may refer to an ingredient combination suitable to be mixed with one or more active ingredient(s). The base formulation may be a gel such as a water-based based formulation including thickeners, an emulsion such as a water- and oil-based formulation including e.g. a cream or a lotion, a serum such as a water-based, emulsion-based or water-oil based formulation, a cleanser such as a surfactant containing base formulation, micellar water such as a surfactant and oil containing formulation, a hydrogel such as a water-based formulation including thickeners forming a consistent macroscopic structure after drying, an oil, a toner including an effect pigment.

[0026] The formulation ingredient, formulation component or active ingredient may relate to any cosmetically acceptable ingredient. These ingredients are known to the person skilled in the art and can be found in several publications, e. g. in the latest edition of the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” published by the Personal Care Products Council. Another well-known source of cosmetically acceptable ingredients is the cometic ingredient database Cosing. Cosing can be accessed via the internet pages of the European Commission. For example, the at least one base formulation includes at least one ingredient selected from the group comprising or consisting of emulsifier, emollients, waxes, viscosity regulators (thickeners), polymers, surfactants, pearlizer, opacifier, sensory enhancers, adjuvants, preservatives, perfumes and combinations thereof. For example, the at least one base formulation includes at least one ingredient selected from the group comprising or consisting of a stabilizer, a solvent, a solubilizer, a preservative, a neutralizing agent, a buffer, a complexing agent and combinations thereof. For example, the at least one base formulation includes or is a hydrogel. The hydrogel may include one or more polysaccharide(es). The hydrogel may include Carrageenan gum as Polysaccharide A, and ii) at least one Polysaccharide B selected from the group consisting of Konjac gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, Tara gum and guar gum, cellulose gum, microcrystalline cellulose or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the Polysaccharide B consists of one or two polysaccharide gums selected from the group consisting of Konjac gum, locust bean gum and Tara gum; more preferably, the Polysaccharide B consists of Konjac gum. Natural ingredients have little impact on nature because of sustainability ecological cultivation.

[0027] The formulation specification may relate to or specify the active ingredients to be added to one or more base formulations. For example, the at least one active ingredient includes at least one of the following active ingredients: active biogenic ingredients, UV light protection filters, self-tanning agents, insect repellents, antioxidants, film formers, sensory additives, effect pigments, pigments, whitening substances, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, perfume oils, dyes, emollients, surfactants, emulsifiers, humectants, plant extracts, vitamins, peptide and panthenol. The active ingredient may refer to an ingredient suitable to treat the skin condition detectable or detected via the image or associated with the skin condition detectable or detected via the image. The active ingredient allows to treat the skin condition and the methods disclosed herein allow for targeted use of active ingredients. By providing base formulation and active ingredients as formulation components, the cosmetic formulation can be tailored to user's need, preferably sub-area specific.

[0028] The data-driven model is configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification (s) and at least one corresponding stability property as measured for one or more for- mulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification(s),

[0029] For training historic data set including formulation specifications and the corresponding stability properties may be provided. The training data may include structured data of formulation representations including ingredient identifiers associated with ingredients, formulation type, application type, and / or at least one stability property. The data-driven model may include any type of machine learning or artificial intelligence model. The data-driven model may be or include at least one regression and / or classification model. The data-driven model may be or include more complex model structures based on neural networks. The data-driven model and its topology or architecture may be chosen based on the structure of the formulation specification. Multiple data-driven models with different architectures and / or of different types may be trained and their performance may be compared. Based on such comparison the data- driven model configured to determine stability property may be selected. Common performance measures may include for regression models R2, RMSE (Root Mean Square Error), MSE (Mean Square Error), MAE (Mean Absolute Error) or MAPE (Mean Absolute Percentage Error) for classification models recall, precision, F1, AUROC score (Area Under the Receiver Operating Characteristics) as common in the art of machine learning.

[0030] The data-driven model may be trained on historic data including at least the formulation specifications and the corresponding stability properties. The data-driven model may include a stability model configured to generate numeric values of one or more stability properties or criteria. The stability of the formulation according to the formulation specification may be determined based on the generated numeric values of one or more stability properties or criteria. The data-driven model may include a stability model configured to generate class label(s) of one or more stability properties or criteria. The stability of the formulation according to the formulation specification may be determined based on the class label(s). The stability model may include a classification model configured to generate class label related to the stability of the of the formulation according to the formulation specification.

[0031] In one embodiment the stability property relates to one or more criteria measurable by a testing procedure for assessing the ability of the formulation to maintain one or more initial property / ies under changing conditions. The testing procedure may include a pre-defined test protocol of measurements or observations to determine one or more stability criteria e.g. for deriving stability property such as stable or not stable. The stability property may characterize the ability of the formulation to resist change or variation of one or more initial property / ies over time under pred-defined measurement conditions. The measurement conditions may relate to conditions present on usage or storage of the formulation.

[0032] In another embodiment the stability property relates to a physical, chemical, microbiological, sensorial and / or functional property of the formulation which when measured over time or when used and / or stored signifies a stable formulation. The stability property or criterion may relate to macroscopic observations, viscosity, pH or other relevant measures that may reflect the impact of the test procedure to the formulation over time and hence the stability of the formulation. The stability property may depend on the formulation type, the application type, the ingredients, the ingredient types used for the formulation and / or the manufacturing process of the formulation.

[0033] In another embodiment the stability property relates to a categorical stability label derivable from one or more criteria measurable by a testing procedure for assessing the ability of the formulation to maintain its initial property under changing conditions.

[0034] In another embodiment the formulation specification specifies a set of ingredients used for producing the formulation, wherein the formulation specification specifies at least one base formulation and at least one active ingredient.

[0035] In another embodiment the one or more formulation specification (s) are pre-processed to include a specification related to one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the formulation specification (s). The at least one stability property may be provided for one or more additional ingredient(s) included per formulation specification. One or more formulation specification (s) may be generated based at least one pre-defined rule and / or one or more formulation specification® with at least one property similar to the at least one target property.

[0036] In another embodiment one or more stable formulation specification® according to the at least one stability property determined by the data-driven model is determined from the one or more formulation specifications provided. For example, the one or more formulation specification (s) categorized as stable according to the at least one stability property are provided as one or more stable formulation specification®. In another embodiment at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification (s) is provided and at least one formulation property per formulation specification is determined. The at least one formulation target property may relate to a performance property. The at least one formulation target property may be different to the stability property The at least one formulation target property may relate to at least one property in addition to the stability property. The at least one formulation target property or formulation property may relate to any property of the formulation, in particular application property relating to the application of the formulation and in particular the active ingredient(s) of the formulation. The at least one formulation target property or formulation property may relate to at least one application property associated with the application such as treatment target of the formulation. In this sense and in contrast to stability the formulation target property or formulation property may be a property measurable independent of time independent. The stability property, in contrast, may relate to a time dependent property measurement, e.g. relating to the change or variation of the formulation over time while being exposed to time-dependent conditions. The formulation target property may exclude or be different to the stability of the formulation as property. The formulation target property may be an additional property of the formulation different to the stability property. The formulation target property may relate to, include or be an application property of the formulation, e.g. relating to the functional properties of the formulation in particular associated with the active ingredients of the formulation and / or the base formulation. The one or more formulation specification (s) may be provided based on the at least one stability property and the at least one target property. For example, the one or more formulation specifi- cation(s) categorized as stable according to the at least one stability property and fulfilling the formulation target property are provided as one or more stable formulation specification(s) with desired properties. The target properties may depend on ingredient type, application type and / or formulation type. The target properties may relate to formulation property associated with base formulation, functional property associated with the active ingredient(s), and / or application property associated with the treatment type such as skin, hair, body, oral treatment. The target properties depending on ingredient type, application type and / or formulation may type may relate to sun protection factor or emollient properties like spreadability, surface tension, viscosity, sensory measures such as waxiness or light skin feel, density, refractive index, interfacial tension, dielectric constant, molecular weight, Equivalent Alkane Carbon Number (EACN) or the like. The target property may relate to sun protection factor or emollient properties like spreadability, surface tension, viscosity, sensory measures such as waxiness or light skin feel, density, refractive index, interfacial tension, dielectric constant, molecular weight, Equivalent Alkane Carbon Number (EACN), natrialness (ISO-16128-2, First edition 2017-09) or any combinations thereof.

[0037] In another embodiment at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification (s) is provided. The at least one formulation property may be determined based on a formulation target property by providing the one or more formulation specification (s) to a data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided on or more formulation specification(s). The data-driven model may be parametrized on a historic data set including at least one or more formulation specification(s) and at least one corresponding formulation property as measured for the one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification (s) . The data-driven model may be configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s). The data-driven model may be parametrized on a historic data set including at least one or more formulation specification (s) and at least one corresponding formulation property as measured for one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification(s),

[0038] For training historic data set including formulation specifications and the corresponding formulation properties may be provided. The training data may include structured data of formulation representations including ingredient identifiers associated with ingredients, formulation type, application type, and / or at least one formulation property. The data- driven model may include any type of machine learning or artificial intelligence model. The data-driven model may be or include at least one regression and / or classification model. The data-driven model may be or include more complex model structures based on neural networks. The data-driven model and its topology or architecture may be chosen based on the structure of the formulation specification. Multiple data-driven models with different architectures and / or of different types may be trained and their performance may be compared e.g. by ensemble techniques known in the art. Based on such comparison the data-driven model configured to determine stability property may be selected. Common performance measures may include for regression models R2, RMSE, MSE, MAE or for classification models recall, precision, F1 as common in the art of machine learning.

[0039] The data-driven model may be trained on historic data including at least the formulation specifications and the corresponding formulation properties. The data-driven model may include a property model configured to generate numeric values of one or more formulation properties. The property of the formulation according to the formulation specification may be determined based on the generated numeric values of one or more formulation properties. The data-driven model may include a property model configured to generate class label(s) of one or more formulation properties. The property of the formulation according to the formulation specification may be determined based on the class label(s). The property model may include a classification model configured to generate class label(s) related to the property of the formulation according to the formulation specification.

[0040] In another embodiment the one or more formulation specification (s) categorized as stable according to the at least one stability property and / or fulfilling the at least one formulation target property is / are provided. For example, the one or more formulation specification (s) categorized as a likelihood of formation of crystals according to the at least one likelihood of formation of crystals (property) and / or fulfilling the at least one formulation target property is / are provided.

[0041] In another embodiment providing one or more formulation specification(s) includes providing at least one formulation target property and generating one or more formulation specification(s) based on the at least one target property.

[0042] In another embodiment a pre-processing engine configured to pre-process the one or more formulation specifica- tion(s) to include a specification related to one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the formulation specification (s), wherein the at least one stability property is provided for one or more additional ingredient(s) included per formulation specification, and / or a determination unit configured to determine one or more stable formulation specification(s) according to the at least one stability property determined by the data-driven model, and / or the input interface further configured to provide at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification(s), and / or the determination unit further configured to determine at least one formulation property per formulation specification, and / or the output interface further configured to provide the one or more formulation specification(s) based on the at least one stability property and the at least one target property, and / or the execution engine further configured to determine at least one formulation property based on a formulation target property by providing the one or more formulation specification(s) to a data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided on or more formulation specification(s), wherein the data- driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification(s) and at least one corresponding formulation target property as measured for the one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification (s).

[0043] The disclosed apparatus according to any aspect may be a module or a component for a device, for example a chip. Alternatively, the disclosed apparatus according to any aspect may be a device, for instance a server, server cloud, a personal computer or a user device. The disclosed apparatus according to any aspect may comprise only the disclosed components, for instance means, processor, memory, or may further comprise one or more additional components, such as a graphical user interface.

[0044] The formulation specification may relate to at least one or more of the following ingredient type(s): an emollient, a surfactant, a rheology modifier, a stabilizer, a solvent, a solubilizer, a preservative, a neutralizing agent, a buffer, a complexing agent, neutralizing agent and buffer. Further details of possible ingredients of each ingredient type referred to may be found below. The formulation specification may relate to any combination of ingredients, ingredient types and / or ingredients of any ingredient type.

[0045] The formulation specification may relate to at least one or more of the following active ingredient type(s): a UV light protection filter, a self-tanning agent, a active biogenic ingredient, a humectant, an insect repellent, a tyrosine inhibitor, a perfume oil, a film former, a dye, ab effect pigment, a sensory additive, and a coolant. Further details of possible active ingredients of each active ingredient type referred to may be found below. The formulation specification may relate to any combination of ingredients, ingredient types and / or ingredients of any ingredient type.

[0046] For example the formulation specification may relate to a cosmetic formulation, wherein the cosmetic formulation includes at least a base set of ingredients at least one active ingredient, wherein the one or more ingredients of the formulation, in particular the base set, affect the stability of the formulation, wherein the one or more ingredients of the formulation, in particular the base set and / or the at least one active ingredient, affect at least one functional and / or sensorial property of the formulation. The formulation specification may relate to an emulsion, wherein the emulsion comprises at least one emulsifier and at least one emollient as ingredient. The formulation may relate to a sun-screen formulation, wherein the sun-screen formulation comprises at least one UV-filter.

[0047] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be any cosmetically acceptable ingredient. These ingredients are known to the person skilled in the art and can be found in several publications, e. g. in the latest edition of the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook” published by the Personal Care Products Council. Another well-known source of cosmetically acceptable ingredients is the cometic ingredient database Cosing. Cosing can be accessed on the internet pages of the European Commission.

[0048] EMOLLIENT

[0049] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be an emollient.

[0050] In the context of the present invention, the term "emollient” is understood to mean substances that make the skin soft and supple, especially by supplying the skin with lipids or reducing evaporation or increasing the moisture content of the skin. Suitable emollients are substances from the group of the oils, fats, waxes, hydrocarbons and / or organosil I- con compounds that are liquid at room temperature or have a melting point < 45°C.

[0051] Emollients can be oils, fats and / or waxes, for example from the group formed by esters, wax esters, waxes, triglycerides or partial glycerides, natural vegetable oils or fats, hydrocarbons, organosilicon compounds, Guerbet alcohols, mono- / dialkyl ethers, mono- / dialkyl carbonates, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] From the group of the esters, examples of esters include those of linear fatty acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear fatty alcohols with linear or branched carboxylic acids, esters of alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched fatty alcohols, esters of linear or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as diols or trimer triol, wax esters, triglycerides or partial glycerides (called mono- / di- / triglyceride esters), esters of fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols, natural vegetable oils or fats and mixtures thereof.

[0053] Suitable examples from the group of esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-C22 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols are myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl erucate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isos- tearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), behenyl oleate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate, Ethylhexyl Stearate (Cetiol® 868), Hexyl Laurate (Cetiol® A), Coco-Caprylate (Cetiol® C5), Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (Cetiol® LC, Cetiol® C 5C), Propylheptyl Caprylate (Cetiol® Sensoft), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), Decyl Oleate (Cetiol® V), Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate.

[0054] Additionally suitable are esters of alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably esters of lactic acid such as lauryl lactate.

[0055] Additionally suitable are esters of dicarboxylic acids and linear or branched alcohols, preferably esters of malic acid, adipic acid and / or sebacic acid, such as dibutyl adipate, dioctyl malate and / or diisopropyl sebacate.

[0056] Also suitable are esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol), such as Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Myritol® PGDC), triglycerides based on Ce- C10 fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Ce-C fatty acids (Myritol® 331 , Myritol® 312, Myritol® 318), esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN, Cetiol® AB).

[0057] Of good suitability as natural, especially vegetable, fats and oils are groundnut oil, soybean oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, avocado oil, argan oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter and shea butter, for example Cegesoft® PFO, Cegesoft® PS 6, Cegesoft® SBE, Cegesoft® SH, Cegesoft® VP or Cetiol® SB 45.

[0058] Also usable as emollient are, for example, natural vegetable waxes such as fruit waxes (for example orange waxes) and animal waxes such as wool wax.

[0059] Also suitable as emollient are C12-C15 fatty alcohols that are usually obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol or 1 -pentadecanol.

[0060] Further suitable emollients are organosilicon compounds, which are frequently referred to simply as silicones. They may take the form of cyclic, branched or linear silicones. Silicones are high molecular weight synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are joined via oxygen atoms in a chain-like and / or grid-like manner and the remaining valences of silicon are satisfied by hydrocarbon radicals (usually methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.). Systematically, the silicones are referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.

[0061] Advantageous polyorganosiloxanes are, for example, the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes that can be represented by the following structural formula:

[0062] They are also referred to as Polydimethylsiloxane or Dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicones come in various chain lengths and with various molecular weights. They are available, for example, under the Abil® 350 trade name from Evonik or Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid trade name from Dow Chemicals.

[0063] Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxane (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (e.g. decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane), which are also referred to in accordance with INCI as Cyclomethicone, amino-modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. polysilox- ane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as various Abil wax grades from Evonik.

[0064] Silicones which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention are Dimethicone and Cyclomethicone.

[0065] Further suitable emollients are mono- and / or dialkyl carbonates of linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC) or dipropylheptyl carbonate (Cetiol® 4 All), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, linear or branched, symmetric or unsymmetric dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, for example Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol® OE). Further suitable emollients are hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, Paraffinum Liquidum, Undecane / Tridecane (Cetiol® Ultimate), Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Luvitol® Lite), substituted cyclohexanes, isoparaffins or paraffins.

[0066] Suitable Guerbet alcohols are those based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms (Eu- tanol® G, Eutanol® G 16).

[0067] Further examples of emollients are dibutyl adipate, dioctyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, octyldodecanol, un- decane / tridecane, Capryl ic / Capric Triglyceride, Ci2-Ci5-alkyl benzoate, ethylhexyl stearate, myristyl myristate, glyceryl oleate, isopropyl palmitate, dioctyl ether, octadecenyl docosenoate, rapeseed oil, wheatgerm oil, mineral or paraffin oils and Olus Oil.

[0068] SURFACTANT

[0069] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a surfactant, hereinafter also referred to as inter- face-active substances. In the context of the present invention, the term "interface-active substances” is understood to mean compounds that lower the interfacial tension of a liquid or interfacial tension between two phases. Such compounds are also referred to as surfactants or emulsifiers.

[0070] The surfactant can be nonionic, anionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic.

[0071] Examples of suitable nonionic interface-active substances are

[0072] (1) Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 20 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, onto fatty acids having 12 to 40 carbon atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group

[0073] (2) C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide onto glycerol

[0074] (3) Sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and the ethylene oxide addition products thereof

[0075] (4) Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides, preferably having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, and ethoxylated analogs thereof

[0076] (5) Addition products of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil, for example with 2 to 15 mol or with 40 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide

[0077] (6) Polyol and especially polyglyceryl esters, such as polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates, polyglyceryl polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl diisostearate or polyglyceryl dimerate. Likewise suitable are mixtures of compounds of two or more of these substance classes

[0078] (7) Lecithins and phospholipids

[0079] (8) Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6-C22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12- hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose), or mixed esters, for example glyceryl stearate citrate and glyceryl stearate lactate.

[0080] (9) Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding derivatives (called silicone emulsifiers)

[0081] (10) Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methylglucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol, and / or

[0082] (11) Mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms with sucrose

[0083] The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters, and also sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or onto castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of al koxy lation corresponds to the ratio of the quantitative amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. According to the degree of ethoxylation, the interface-active compounds can emulsify water in oil or oil in water. C12 / 18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are also known as refatting agents in cosmetic formulations. Examples of suitable commercially available interface-active substances of the nonionic type are Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (e.g. Abil EM-90), Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g. Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (e.g. Lameform TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (e.g. Isolan Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate (e.g. Isolan GO 33), Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (e.g. Isolan PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (e.g. Tego Care 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (e.g. Cera Beilina), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (e.g. Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Poly- glyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (e.g. Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (e.g. Cremophor GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (e.g. Admul WOL 1403), Glyceryl Oleate (e.g. Monomuls 90-0 18), Alkyl Glucoside (e.g. Plantacare 1200, Emulgade PL 68 / 50, Montanov 68, Tego Care CG 90, Tego Glucosid L 55), Methyl Glucose Isostearate (e.g. Tego Care IS), Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate (Tego Care PS), Sucrose Ester (e.g. Crodesta F-10, F-20, F-50, F-70, F- 110, F-160, SL-40, Emulgade® Sucro), ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, castor oils and hydrogenated castor oils (e.g. Eumulgin® B1, B2, B3, BA 25, L, CO 40, CO 60, O 10, 0 30, S 2, S 20, Cremophor® WO 7, Arlacel 989), PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate (e.g. Arlacel P 135, Dehymuls LE), sorbitan esters, sorbitan esters ethoxylated and / or propoxylated, and mixtures thereof. A particularly effective mixture consists of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Lauryl Glucoside and glycerol (e.g. Eumulgin VL 75). Also suitable are Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS) or Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (e.g. Isolan PDI).

[0084] Further nonionic interface-active substances are reaction products of poly-12-hydroxystearic acid with polyglycerols of the following homolog distribution (preferred amounts are given in brackets):

[0085] Glycerols: 5 to 35 (15 to 30) % by weight

[0086] Diglycerols: 15 to 40 (20 to 32) % by weight

[0087] Triglycerols: 10 to 35 (15 to 25) % by weight

[0088] Tetraglycerols: 5 to 20 (8 to 15) % by weight

[0089] Pentaglycerols: 2 to 10 (3 to 8) % by weight

[0090] Oligoglycerols: ad 100% by weight

[0091] In one embodiment of the invention, the glyceryl ester is the diester of polyhydroxystearic acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, which is sold, for example, by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH under the Dehymuls® PGPH name on its own or blends thereof under the Eumulgin® VL 75 name (blend with Lauryl Glucosides in a weight ratio of 1 : 1 , O / W emulsifier) or Dehymuls® SBL name (W / O emulsifier) by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Deutschland GmbH.

[0092] Nonionic interface-active compounds from the group of the alkyl mono- or alkyl oligoglycosides are particularly skinfriendly. C8-C22-Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are known from the prior art. They are prepared especially by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. As regards the glycoside radical, either monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol, or oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization here is a statistical average value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical-grade products. Products available under the Plantacare® name comprise a glucosidically bonded Cs-Ci6-alky I group onto an oligoglucoside radical having an average degree of oligomerization of 1 to 2. The acylglucamides derived from glucamine are also suitable.

[0093] Also suitable as nonionic interface-active compounds are substances such as lecithins and phospholipids. Examples of natural lecithins include the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2- diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to mean mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally counted among the fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also possible.

[0094] Examples of nonionic interface-active compounds that may be present include silicone emulsifiers. These may be selected, for example, from the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyldimethicone copolyols, especially from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure: in which X and Y are independently selected from the group of H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1-24 carbon atoms, p is 0-200, q is 1-40, and r is 1-100.

[0095] One example of silicone emulsifiers is that of dimethicone copolyols, which are sold by Evonik under the AXIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL®B 88183 trade names. A further example is Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone (Cetyl Dimethiconecopolyol), which is sold by Evonik under the ABIL® EM 90 brand name. A further example is Cyclomethicone Dimethiconecopolyol, which is sold by Evonik under the ABIL® EM 97 and ABIL® WE 09 brand name. Also suitable are Lauryl PEG / PPG- 18 / 18 Methicone (Laurylmethiconecopolyol), available under the Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid brand-name from the company Dow Corning Ltd., and Octyl Dimethicon Ethoxy Glucosid from Wacker.

[0096] Also suitable as interface-active compounds are zwitterionic, ampholytic and / or cationic compounds.

[0097] Interface-active compounds which bear at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO(-)- or - SO3(-)- group in the molecule are referred to as as zwitterionic. Particularly suitable zwitterionic compounds are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniurn glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxy- ethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surface-active compound is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

[0098] Interface-active compounds which, aside from a Cs-Cis-alkyl or acyl group, comprise at least one free amino group and at least one -COCH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are called ampho- lytic. Examples of suitable ampholytic compounds are N-alky Iglycines, N-alky Ipropionic acids, N-alky laminobuty ric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.

[0099] Usable cationic interface-active compounds are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Additionally suitable are fatty amines such as Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (Dehyquart® S18) and the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, for example the dialkylammonium methosulfates and methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates sold under the trade name Stepantex® and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series, be used as cationic interface-active compound. The term "ester quats" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. Likewise suitable are the quaternized protein hydrolyzates.

[0100] Also suitable are interface-active compounds having at least one anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group. Examples of suitable interface-active compounds, each in the form of their salts, are fatty acids, ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl glutamates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alkylarylsulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsul- fonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, esters of tartaric acid and esters of citric acid, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates and condensation products of C8-C30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and / or amino acids and derivatives thereof, called protein fatty acid condensates, e.g. Lamepon®, Gluadin®, Hostapon® KCG or Amisoft. Typically, the salts are selected from the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, and the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group.

[0101] Suitable examples are sodium acylglutamate, Myristoyl Sarcosine, TEA-Lauroyl Sarcosinate, sodium lauroylsar- cosinate and sodium cocoylsarcosinate, sodium or ammonium cocoylisethionate, dioctylsodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium laurylsulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate, Disodium PEG-5 Laurylcitratesulfosuccinate, sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium my- rethsulfate and sodium C12-13 parethsulfate, sodium C12-15 Pareth-15 Sulfonate, sodium, ammonium and TEA laurylsulfate, sodium lauroyltaurate and sodium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and Sodium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylate, Sodium PEG-7-Olive Oil Carboxylate, DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphate and Dilaureth-4 Phosphate, sodium cocomonoglyceridesulfate, Sodium C12-14 Olefinsulfonate, sodium laurylsulfoacetate, Magnesium PEG-3 Co- camidesulfate, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate and Sodium Caprylic / Capric Glutamate, Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein and Sodium / Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, calcium stearoyllac- tylate, Laureth-6 Citrate and Sodium PEG-4 Lauramide Carboxylate.

[0102] Anionic compounds of excellent suitability are alk(en)yl polyglycol ether citrates and especially mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters of citric acid and alkoxy lated alcohols that conform to the formula (I): in which

[0103] R1, R2 and R3 are independently hydrogen or the radical of the formula

[0104] (II) R4(OCH2CHR5)nin which

[0105] R4 is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0106] R5 is hydrogen or methyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 20, with the condition that at least one of the R1, R2and R3 radicals is not hydrogen.

[0107] Typical examples of the alcohol moiety of the esters are addition products of an average of 1 to 20 mol, preferably 5 to 10 mol, of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isos- tearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical grade mixtures thereof. It is particularly preferable in the context of the invention to use, as anionic interface-active substances, salts of alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, salts of acyl isethionates, salts of acyl glutamate, salts of mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, salts of alkyl sulfates, salts of alkyl phosphates, salts of fatty acids, citric esters of glyceryl stearate, and the alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrates that have already been discussed in detail above, especially the alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrates that have already been discussed in detail above.

[0108] In one embodiment of the present invention interface-active substances are nonionic and / or anionic interface-active compounds. Preferred nonionic interface-active compounds are those from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and ethoxylated fatty acids and alkyl (oligo)glucosides.

[0109] Preferred anionic interface-active compounds are those from the group formed by alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrates, salts of acyl glutamate, salts of mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates having 12 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl phosphates, and citric esters of glyceryl stearate.

[0110] A suitable subtype is that of mixtures consisting of two different nonionic interface-active compounds, preferably a mixture of 2 different interface-active compounds selected from the group formed by polyglyceryl esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and alkyl (oligo)glucosides.

[0111] A further suitable subtype is that of mixtures consisting of at least one anionic interface-active compound and at least one nonionic interface-active compound, preferably of one of the anionic interface-active compounds selected from the group of the alkyl polyalkylene glycol ether citrates, salts of acyl glutamate and salts of mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates having 12 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and one of the nonionic interface-active compounds selected from the group of the polyglyceryl esters, sucrose esters and alkyl (oligo)glucosides.

[0112] In a further embodiment of the present invention, the interface-active substance is one or more cationic and / or zwitterionic or ampholytic interface-active compounds, preferably the cationic and / or zwitterionic compounds already mentioned above, preferably quaternary ammonium compounds, dialkylammonium methosulfates, methylhydroxy- alkyldialkoyloxyalkylammonium methosulfates, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, fatty amines and betaines, especially Distearoyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocoamidopropyl Betaine, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl- dimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and Stea- ry I amidopropyl Dimethylamine. This embodiment is recommended for production of cosmetic formulations for the hair, especially for the production of conditioner formulations. RHEOLOGY MODIFIER

[0113] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a rheology modifier.

[0114] In the context of the present invention, the term "rheology modifier” is understood to mean substances that alter the deformation and flow properties of material. This comprises organic or inorganic compounds, usually macromolecules, which alter the intermolecular forces through formation of cohesion (intramolecular) or adhesion (intermolecu- lar) in such a way that the viscosity of the coherent phase of the cosmetic formulation is preferably increased.

[0115] The rheology modifiers are preferably selected from the group formed by anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers, inorganic substances selected from the group of the fumed silicas, bentonites and hectorites, where these may optionally be chemically modified, and organic substances from the group of the fats, waxes, alcohols and / or hydrocarbons having a melting point above 45°C.

[0116] POLYMERS

[0117] The rheology modifier according to the present invention can be a polymer.

[0118] Suitable rheology modifiers are anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or zwitterionic polymers having a natural or synthetic basis.

[0119] Examples of polymers having a natural basis are: starch and modified starch quaternized collagen polypeptides such as Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® L / Griinau) polysaccharides, especially Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, Gellan Gum, Acacia Gum, Tara Gum, Cellulose Gum, Scleroglucan, Glucomannan, Guar gum, Agar-Agar, Alginate, Pectin, chemically modified polysaccharides such as methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl- and hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose modified guar polymers, such as those of the Jaguar® brands from Solvay derivatized cellulose ethers.

[0120] Examples of anionic polymers suitable as rheology modifier are polymers or copolymers comprising carboxylic acid groups in particular. Suitable carboxylic acid-group-containing polymers are obtainable, for example, by free-radical polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers ml). Monomers used here comprise at least one free-radically polymerizable, ethylenically unsaturated double bond and at least one anionogenic and / or anionic group per molecule. Suitable monomers are monoethylenically unsaturated mono- and dicarboxylic acids having 3 to 25, preferably 3 to 6, carbon atoms, which can also be used in the form of their salts or anhydrides. Examples thereof are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, □-chloroacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, glutaconic acid, aconitic acid and fumaric acid. The monomers additionally include the monoesters of monoethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 10, preferably 4 to 6, carbon atoms, for example of maleic acid, such as monomethyl maleate. The monomers also include monoethylenically unsaturated sulfonic acids and phosphonic acids, for example vinylsulfonic acid, allylsulfonic acid, sulfoethyl acrylate, sulfoethyl methacrylate, sulfopropyl acrylate, sulfopropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxy-3-acryloxy propylsulfonic acid, 2-hydroxy-3- methacryloxypropylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, 1-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid and al ly Iphosophonic acid. The monomers also include the salts of the abovementioned acids, in particular the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts, and the salts with the abovementioned amines. The monomers can be used as they are or as mixtures with one another.

[0121] The monomer is preferably selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, chloroacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, glutaconic acid, aconitic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures therof. Preference is given to copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid that have a molecular weight in the range from 10 000 to 10 000 000 daltons.

[0122] Additionally preferred are copolymers of the abovementioned monomers with monomers m2. Suitable monomers m2) are methyl (meth)acrylate, methyl ethacrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tertbutyl ethacrylate, n-octyl (meth)acrylate, 1 ,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl (meth)acrylate, ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, n-nonyl (meth)acrylate, n-decyl (meth)acrylate, n-undecyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate, myristyl (meth)acrylate, pentadecyl (meth)acrylate, palmityl (meth)acrylate, heptadecyl (meth)acrylate, nonadecyl (meth)acrylate, arachinyl (meth)acrylate, behenyl (meth)acrylate, lignocerenyl (meth)acrylate, cerotinyl (meth)acrylate, melissinyl (meth)acry- late, palmitoleinyl (meth)acrylate, oleyl (meth)acrylate, linolyl (meth)acrylate, linolenyl (meth)acrylate, stearyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Suitable monomers m2) are additionally acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methyl(meth)acryl amide, N- ethyl(meth)acrylamide, N-propyl(meth)acrylamide, N-(n-butyl)(meth) acrylamide, N-(tert-butyl)(meth)acrylamide, N,N- dimethyl(meth)acrylamide, N, N-diethyl(meth)acrylamide, piperidinyl(meth)acrylamide and morpholinyl(meth)acryla- mide, N-(n-octyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-ethylhexyl(meth)acylamide, N-(n- nonyl)(meth}acrylamide, N-(n-decyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-(n-undecyl)(meth)acrylamide, N-tridecyl(meth)acrylamide, N-myristyl(meth)acrylamide, N-pentadecyl(meth)acylamide, N-palmityl(meth)acrylamide, N-heptadecyl(meth)acryla- mide, N-nonadecyl(meth)acylamide, N-arachinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-behenyl(meth)acrylamide, N-ligno- cerenyl(meth)acrylamide, N-cerotinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-melissinyl(meth)acrylamide, N-palmitoleinyl(meth)acryla- mide, N-oleyl(meth)acrylamide, N-linolyl(meth)acrylamide, N-linolenyl(meth)acrylamide, N-stearyl(meth)acrylamide and N-lauryl(meth)acrylamide.

[0124] Anionic polymers preferred as carboxylic-acid-group-containing polymers are, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and salts thereof. These also include crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, as are available under the INCI name Carbomer. Such crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid are commercially available, for example, under the Carbopoll® name from Lubrizol. Preference is also given to hydrophobic modified crosslinked and uncrosslinked polyacrylic copolymers, such as Carbopol® Ultrez 21 from Lubrizol.

[0125] Further examples of suitable anionic polymers are copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and salts thereof; sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polyurethanes and polyureas. Particularly suitable polymers are copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylates, where the polyether chain is terminated with a C8-C30-alkyl radical. These include, for example, Acrylates / Beheneth-25-Methacrylate copolymers which are available under the Acu- lyn® name from Dow. Suitable polymers are additionally copolymers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid with hydro- phobic monomers, for example C4-C30-alkyl esters of meth(acrylic acid), C4-C30-alkyl vinyl esters, C4-C30-alkyl vinyl ethers and hyaluronic acid.

[0126] Likewise suitable as rheology modifiers are cationic polymers, for example what are called quaternary ammonium compounds with the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-47 or Polyquaternium-86.

[0127] In addition, it is also possible to use nonionic polymers as rheology modifiers, such as polyethylene glycols having an average molar mass of > 800 g / mol or hydrophobically modified, ethoxylated urethane polymers (HEUR for short) such as Polyurethane-39.

[0128] INORGANIC SUBSTANCES

[0129] The rheology modifier according to the present invention can be an inorganic substance.

[0130] In addition, inorganic substances that can also function as rheology modifiers are those selected from the group of the fumed silicas, bentonites and hectorites, for example hydrophilic and hydrophobic fumed silicas that are sold under the Aerosil® trade name inter alia, and bentonites and hectorites or hydrophobically modified hectorites and bentonites such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium Hectorite, Dimethyldioctylammonium Hectorite or Quaternium-18 Hectorite, and also Benzyldimethylstearylammonium Bentonite or Quaternium-18 Bentonite, which are available, for example, under the Bentone®, Claytone®, Tixogel® trade names.

[0131] ORGANIC SUBSRANCES

[0132] The rheology modifier according to the present invention can be an organic substance.

[0133] In addition, organic substances that can also function as rheology modifiers are those selected from the group of the fats, waxes, alcohols and or hydrocarbons having a melting point above 45°C. Rheology modifiers may also be wholly or partly wax esters, i.e. compounds having a melting point of 45°C, such as mono-, di- and / or triglycerides, such as the Cutina® MD or Cutina® GMS (glyceryl stearate) products marketed by BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG. Usable rheology modifiers are, for example, also natural vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, and animal waxes such as beeswax.

[0134] It is also possible to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes such as the mineral waxes, for example ceresin and ozokerite, or the petrochemical waxes, such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes. Usable rheology modifiers also include chemically modified waxes such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes. Synthetic waxes usable in accordance with the invention include, for example, wax-like polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.

[0135] Further usable waxes are esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids and hydroxycarboxylic acids (e.g. 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols. Examples of such esters are the Ci6-C4o-alky I stearates, C2o-C4o-alky I stearates (e.g. Kesterwachs K82H), C20-C40- dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C -Cas-alky Ihydroxystearoy I stearates or C2o-C4o-alky I erucates. Also suitable are C30- Cso-alkyl beeswax, tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, trilauryl citrate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol di(12-hydroxystearate), stearyl stearate, palmityl stearate, stearyl behenate, cetearyl behenate, glyceryl mono / dilaurate, -palmitate, -myristate or -stearate, triesters of glycerol with a hydroxystearic acid (Cutina® HR) or glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl tribehenate (e.g. Syncrowax® HRC), glyceryl tripalmitate, or the triglyceride mixtures known by the Syncrowax® HGLC name.

[0136] Rheology modifiers present may also be fatty alcohols, fatty acids (unsaponified) and / or glyceryl mono-, di- and / or trifatty acid esters and wax esters. Typical examples are cetyl alcohol (Lanette® 16), palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (Lanette® 18), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette® 0), isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselyl alcohol, II- nolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol (Lanette® 22), erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical grade mixtures thereof, which are obtained, for example, in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical grade methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis and also as monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred fatty alcohols are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol. Examples of glyceryl esters are glyceryl laurate, such as Monomuls® 90-L-12, glyceryl oleate, such as Monomuls® 90-0 18, glyceryl stearate, such as Cutina® GMS V and Cutina® GMS V / MB, glycol distearate, such as Cutina® AGS, sorbitan stearate, such as Dehymuls® SMS, Cutina® HVG.

[0137] Particularly preferred rheology modifiers are those from the group of the polymers anionic, nonionic or cationic, synthetic and / or natural polymers, especially selected from the group formed by polyacrylic acids and alkali metal salts thereof, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and alkali metal salts thereof, copolymers of (meth)acry lie acid and polyether acrylates, where the polyether chain is terminated by a C8-C30-alkyl radical, copolymers of acrylamidomethylpro- panesulfonic acid and alkali metal salts thereof, and the polysaccharides.

[0138] From the group of the organic substances, rheology modifiers are more preferably fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters, and wax esters.

[0139] Especially preferred combinations of the rheology modifiers are mixtures of the hectorites and / or bentonites that have optionally been hydrophobically modified with polymers selected from the group of polyacrylic acids and alkali metal salts thereof, copolymers of polyacrylic acid and alkali metal salts thereof, copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and polyether acrylates, where the polyether chain is terminated by a C8-C30-alkyl radical, copolymers of acrylami- domethylpropanesulfonic acid and alkali metal salts thereof and the polysaccharides, and mixtures of the hectorites and / or bentonites that have optionally been hydrophobically modified with organic substances selected from the group of the fatty alcohols, glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-fatty acid esters, and wax esters.

[0140] FURTHER COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

[0141] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be selelcted from the group consisting of a stabilizer, a solvent, a solubilizer, a preservative, a neutralizing agent, a buffer and a complexing agent.

[0142] NEUTRALIZING AGENTS AND BUFFERS

[0143] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a neutralizing agent or a buffer.

[0144] Examples of suitable neutralizing agents are the compatible acids or bases known in the cosmetics industry, which are likewise listed in the Cosmetics Directive. Buffers ensure the pH stability of the cosmetic formulations. Primarily citrate, lactate and phosphate buffers are used.

[0145] PRESERVATIVES

[0146] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a preservative.

[0147] Suitable preservatives are, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, phenoxyethanol, the combination of phenoxyethanol with methyldibromoglutaronitrile, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, benzoic acid and salts thereof, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, urea condensates, p-hydroxybenzoic esters, dehydroacetic acid, methyl- thiazolinone or sorbic acid and salts thereof, and also the silver complexes known by the Surfacine® name, and the further substance classes listed in Annex 6, parts A and B, of the Cosmetics Directive. Additionally used are substances which function as preservation aids such as Ethylhexylglycerin and Caprylyl Glycol, and polyols or alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, propanediol, phenylpropanol, phenethyl alcohol and undecyl alcohol and also the silver complexes known by the Surfacine® name. Additionally suitable as preservatives are the 1 ,2-alkanediols having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, which are described in WC07 / 048757.

[0148] Advantageous preservatives in the context of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (for example DMDM Hydantoin, commercially available, for example, under the Glydant® trade name (Lonza)), iodopropyl butylcarbamate (e.g. Glycacil-L®, Glycacil-S® (Lonza), Dekaben®LMB (Jan Dekker)), parabens (alkyl p-hydroxybenzo- ate, for example methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and / or butylparaben), Dehydroacetic Acid (Euxyl® K 702 (Schiilke&Mayr), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid. It is also advantageous to use what are called preservation aids, for example octoxyglycerin, glycine, soya etc.

[0149] The table below gives an overview of possible preservatives.

[0150] Also advantageous are the preservatives or preservation aids that are commonly used in cosmetics, such as dibro- modicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), phenoxyethanol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutyl carbamate, 2- bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, imidazolidinylurea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, ben- zalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and salicylates.

[0151] Particularly preferred preservatives are sodium benzoate, parabens (methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and / or butylparaben) and / or phenoxyethanol. COMPLEXING AGENTS

[0152] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be complexing agent.

[0153] Suitable complexing agents are salts of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, of nitrilotriacetic acid, of iminodisuccinic acid, or phosphates.

[0154] STABILIZERS

[0155] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a stabilizer.

[0156] Stabilizers can be metal salts of fatty acids, for example magnesium stearate / ricinoleate, aluminum stearate / ricinole- ate and / or zinc stearate / ricinoleate, in order to improve emulsion stability, but also compounds such as tris(tetra- methylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate as light stabilizers in order to prevent discoloration or changes in odor in the formulations that shall be made.

[0157] SOLUBILIZERS

[0158] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a solubilizer.

[0159] Solubilizers can be ethylene oxide adducts having an ethoxylation level of 20 to 60 onto castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil, ethylene oxide adducts and / or propylene oxide adducts having 2-20 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 20 mol of propylene oxide units onto fatty alcohols having 8 to 40 carbon atoms or onto fatty acids having 12 to 40 carbon atoms or onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Also suitable are ethylene oxide adducts of 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide units onto C12-C18 fatty acid mono- and diesters of glycerol or polyglycerol or sorbi- tan. Preferentially suitable solubilizers are Eumulgin® HRE 40 (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin® HRE 60 (INCI: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin® L (INCI: PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether), and Eumulgin® SML 20 (INCI: Polysorbate-20).

[0160] SOLVENTS

[0161] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a solvent.

[0162] Suitable solvents are alcohols such as ethanol, propanediol or glycerol.

[0163] ACTIVE COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

[0164] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be an active cosmetic ingredient.

[0165] Active cosmetic ingredients can be active biogenic ingredients, UV light protection filters, self-tanning agents, insect repellents, antioxidants, film formers, sensory additives, effect pigments, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), coolants, perfume oils, dyes and humectants. UV LIGHT PROTECTION FILTERS

[0166] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a UV light protection filter.

[0167] Suitable UV light protection filters organic substances that are liquid at room temperature or crystalline (light protection filters) which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and releasing the energy absorbed again in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UV filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of typical oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV-A / B filters include:

[0168] 3-benzylidenecamphor or 3-benzylidenenorcamphor (Mexoryl SDS 20) and derivatives thereof, e.g. 3-(4- methylbenzylidene)camphor, as described in EP 0693471 B1 ;

[0169] 3-(4'-trimethylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate (Mexoryl SO);

[0170] 3,3'-(1 ,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo[2.2.1]heptane-1 -methanesulfonic acid) and salts (Mexoryl SX);

[0171] 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one and salts (Mexoryl SL); polymer of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}benzyl]acrylamide (Mexoryl SW);

[0172] 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-(2-methyl-3-(1 ,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)pro- pyl)phenol;

[0173] 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethyla- mino)benzoate and amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate; esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropy Ibenzy I salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'- methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; triazine derivatives, for example 2, 4, 6-triani lino (p-carbo-2'-ethy I- 1 '-hexyloxy)-1 , 3, 5-triazine and 2, 4,6-tris[p-(2- ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1 ,3,5-triazine (Uvinul T 150), as described in EP 0818450 A1 , or bis(2- ethylhexyl) 4,4'-[(6-[4-((1 , 1-dimethylethyl)aminocarbonyl)phenylamino]-1 ,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl)diimino]benzoate (Uvasorb® HEB);

[0174] 2.2-(methylenebis(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1 ,1 ,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol) (Tinosorb M);

[0175] 2, 4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine (Tinosorb S); propane-1 , 3-diones, for example 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propane-1 , 3-dione; ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1 ; dimethicodiethyl benzalmalonates (Parsol SLX).

[0176] Useful water-soluble UV filters include:

[0177] 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof;

[0178] 2.2-(1 ,4-phenylene)bis(1 H-benzi mid azole-4,6-d isu Ifoni c acid, monosodium salt) (Neo Heliopan AP); sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof; sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, for example 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesul- fonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

[0179] Useful typical UVA filters are especially derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 1-(4'-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4'- methoxyphenyl)propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4'-iso- propylphenyl)propane-1, 3-dione, and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF), and also benzoic acid 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl ester (Uvinul® A plus).

[0180] Suitable UV light protection filters are especially the substances approved according to Annex VII of the Commission Directive (in the version: Commission Directive 2005 / 9 / EC of January 28, 2005 amending Council Directive 76 / 768 / EEC, concerning cosmetic products, for the purposes of adapting Annexes VII thereof to technical progress).

[0181] In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, specifically finely dispersed metal oxides and salts, are also useful for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are especially zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and additionally oxides of iron, of zirconium, of silicon, of manganese, of aluminum and of cerium, and mixtures thereof. The salts used may be silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skincare and skin-protecting emulsions, and also for decorative cosmetics. The particles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and especially between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which deviates in some other way from the spherical configuration. The pigments may also be in surface-treated form, i.e. hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example T 805 titanium dioxide (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO and Eusolex® T-S (Merck). Typical examples are zinc oxides, for example Zinc Oxide neutral, Zinc Oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and specifically trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreen compositions, preference is given to using so-called micropigments or nanopigments. Preference is given to using micronized zinc oxide. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the review by P. Finkel in SOFW-Journal 122, 8 / 1996, pages 543-548 and Parf.Kosm. Volume 80, no. 3 / 1999, pages 10 to 16.

[0182] As well as the two aforementioned groups of primary photoprotective substances, it is also possible to use secondary photoprotective agents of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples thereof are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. o-caro- tene, p-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, y-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof), and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. a-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), a-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, o-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids), suitable in accordance with the invention, of these specified active ingredients.

[0183] These UV light protection filters are commercially available, for example, under the following trade names: NeoHeliopanOMBC (INCI: 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor; manufacturer: Symrise); NeoHeliopan® BB (INCI: Benzo- phenone-3, manufacturer: Symrise); Parsol®1789 (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, manufacturer: Hoffmann- La Roche (Givaudan); Tinosorb®S (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine); Tinosorb®M (INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol): manufacturer: BASF; Uvasorb®HEB (INCI: Diethylhexyl Bu- tamido Triazone, manufacturer: 3V Inc.), Uvinul®T 150 (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone, manufacturer: BASF AG); Uvi- nul® A plus (INCI: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, manufacturer: BASF AG; Mexoryl® SO: 3-(4'-tri- methylammonium)benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate, INCI: Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate; Mex- oryl®SX: 3,3'-(1 ,4-phenylenedimethine)bis(7,7- dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-[2.2.1]-heptane-1-methanesulfonic acid), CTFA: INCI Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid; Mexory® SL: 3-(4'-sulfo)benzylidenebornan-2-one, INCI Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid; Mexoryl®SW: polymer of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidene)methyl}ben- zyl]acrylamide, INCI Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor; Mexoryl®SL: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6- (2-methyl-3-(1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyloxy)disiloxanyl)propyl)phenol; INCI: DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE; Parsol® SLX: Dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate, INCI Polysilicone-15.

[0184] Further examples are pigmentary light filters, for example inorganic pigmentary light filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide and / or organic pigmentary light filters such as methy lenebisbenzotriazoly Itetramethy Ibutyl phenol (Ti- nosorb M). SELF-TANNING AGENTS

[0185] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a self-tanning agent.

[0186] Self-tanning agents are understood to mean substances which cause browning of the skin. Examples include dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and alpha, beta-unsaturated aldehydes, which react with the amino acids in the skin in the manner of a Maillard reaction to give colored compounds. Useful further active ingredients for self-tanning agents include natural or synthetic ketols or aldols. Examples of suitable active ingredients include dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glycerolaldehyde, alloxane, hydroxymethylglyoxal, gamma-dialdehyde, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin and meso-tartaraldehyde. Suitable self-tanning agents are especially dihydroxyacetone and / or erythrulose.

[0187] ACTIVE BIOGENIC INGREDIENTS

[0188] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be an active biogenic ingredient.

[0189] Active biogenic ingredients can be active ingredients having a natural basis, preferably those that improve skin properties, for example tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and the fragmentation products thereof, p-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, for example aloe vera, prunus extract, bambara nut extract and vitamin complexes.

[0190] The following active biogenic ingredients are suitable as humectants for the skin: AMC® Advanced Moisture Complex NP (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Sodium PCA (and) Urea (and) Trehalose (and) Hexylene glycol (and) Polyquaternium-51 (and) Triacetin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate); Hy- alurosmooth® LS8998 (INCI: Water (and) Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide); Hyalurosmooth® LS 8997(1 NCI: Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide); Irwinol® (INCI: Octyldodecanol (and) Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter (and) Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides); Lipofructyl® Argan (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil); Melhydran® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Honey Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Urea (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Arginine HCI (and) Lysine HCI (and) Ornithine HCI ); Oligolin® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract); PatcH2O® (INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Trehalose (and) Urea (and) Serine (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (and), Algin (and), Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and), Pullulan (and) Disodium Phosphate (and) Potassium Phosphate); Relipidium® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol); Sphingoceryl® VEG (INCI: Octyldodecanol (and) Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract).

[0191] The following active biogenic ingredients are suitable as anti-aging agents: AH-Care® (INCI: Water (and) Lactic Acid (and) Arginine); Argassential® (INCI: Argania Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Sorbitol (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Glycerin (and) Water); Argatensyl® (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate); Collalift® 18 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract (and) Maltodextrin); Deliner® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Dermagenist® (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract); Dermican® LS 9837 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9); Dermican® LS 9838 (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9); Elestan® LS 9913 (INCI: Glycerin (and) Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract (and) Water); Elestan® LS 9879 (INCI: Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin); Eperuline® (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Eperua Falcata Bark Extract); Epigenist® (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract); Hyalufix® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Alpinia Galanga Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), Hyaluronic Filling Spheres® (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate); Linefactor® C (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Lox- Age® (INCI: Water (and) Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Leaf Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Lys'lastine® V (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Peucedanum Graveolens (Dill) Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Myoxinol® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (and) Dextrin); Neurobiox® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Achillea Millefolium Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Oligolin® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract); Perlaura® (INCI: Water (and) Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Phytokine® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) 1 ,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol); Proteasyl® LS 9818 (INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract); Proteasyl® LS 8951 (INCI: Pisum Sativum (Pea) Extract (and) Cyclodextrin); Shadownyl® (INCI: Water (and) Fucus Vesiculosus Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Slim-Excess® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Hydrolyzed Rhodophycea Extract (and) Xanthan Gum); Speci'Men® (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract); Sqisandryl® (INCI: Schizandra Chinensis Fruit Extract); Syniorage® (INCI: Mannitol (and) Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11); Ultra Filling Sphreres® (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Glucomannan); Vegeseryl® HGP (INCI: Water (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Ethylhexylglycerin); Vit-A-Like® LS 9793 (INCI: Water (and) Vigna Aco- nitifolia Seed Extract (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate); Vit-A-Like® LS 9898 (INCI: Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin); X-pressin® R (INCI: Water (and) Papain (and) Carbomer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Algin).

[0192] Suitable active biogenic ingredients for improving the skin (skin perfection) are:

[0193] AH-Care® (INCI: Water (and) Lactic Acid (and) Arginine); Beta-Hydroxyde® ACSD (INCI: Salicylic Acid (and) Acacia Senegal Gum); Betapur® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Peumus Boldus Leaf Extract (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Biophytex® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Panthenol (and) Escin (and) Glycerin (and) Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract (and) Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (and) Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract); Lox-Age® (INCI: Water (and) Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Leaf Extract (and) Hexylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum); Mat-XS® Clinical (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sarcosine (and) Xanthan Gum); Neurobiox® (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Achillea Millefolium Extract (and) Xanthan Gum; X-pressin® C (INCI: Water (and) Papain (and) Carbomer (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Algin). HUMECTANTS

[0194] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a humectant. Humectants can bind water and hence prevent evaporation. Suitable humectants are polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, for example glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycols or xylitol.

[0195] INSECT REPELLENTS

[0196] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be an insect repellent.

[0197] Examples of useful insect repellents include N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1 ,2-pentanediol or ethyl 3-(N-n-butyl-N-acet- ylamino)propionate, which is sold under the Insect Repellent® 3535 name by Merck KGaA, and butyl acetylaminopropionates.

[0198] TYROSINE INHIBITORS

[0199] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a tyrosine inhibitor.

[0200] Examples of useful tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and find use in depigmenting agents include arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

[0201] PERFUME OILS

[0202] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a perfume oil

[0203] Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic odorants. Natural odorants are extracts from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf-pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Also suitable are animal raw materials, for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic odorant compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Odorant compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-buty Icy- clohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the ionones, o-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include primarily the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different odorants which together produce a pleasant scent note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and la- vandin oil. Preference is given to using bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, a- hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, |3- damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures. Examples of suitable aromas include peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseed oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, Wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

[0204] FILM FORMERS

[0205] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a film former.

[0206] Suitable film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.

[0207] DYES

[0208] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a dye.

[0209] Dyes can be the substances approved and suitable for cosmetic purposes, as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetische Farbemittel” [Cosmetic Colorants] from the Farbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemein- schaft [Dyes Commission of the German Research Society], Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C.l. 42051), indigotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l.

[0210] 58000). As a luminescent dye, it is also possible for luminol to be present. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.

[0211] EFFECT PIGMENTS

[0212] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be an effect pigment.

[0213] The preferred particle size of the pigments is 0.01 to 200 pm, especially 0.02 to 150 pm, more preferably 0.05 to 100 pm.

[0214] The pigments are colorants that are virtually insoluble in the application medium and may be inorganic or organic. Inorganic-organic mixed pigments are also possible. Preference is given to inorganic pigments.

[0215] The advantage of the inorganic pigments is their excellent photostability, weather stability and thermal stability. The inorganic pigments may be of natural origin, for example prepared from chalk, ochre, umber, green earth, burnt siena or graphite. The pigments may be white pigments, such as, for example, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, black pigments, such as, for example, iron oxide black, colored pigments, such as, for example, ultramarine or iron oxide red, gloss pigments, metal effect pigments, pearlescent pigments and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, where preferably at least one pigment is a colored, non-white pigment.

[0216] Metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates, and the metals themselves (bronze pigments) are suitable. Of particular suitability are titanium dioxide (Cl 77891), black iron oxide (Cl 77499), yellow iron oxide (Cl 77492), red and brown iron oxide (Cl 77491), manganese violet (Cl 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, Cl 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (Cl 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, Cl 77510), carmine (cochineal).

[0217] Particular preference is given to pearlescent pigments and colored pigments based on mica or based on borosilicate, which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride, such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, and if appropriate further color-imparting substances, such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine etc., and where the color can be determined by varying the layer thickness. Such pigments are sold, for example, under the Rona®, Colorona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® trade names by Merck or the Reflecks® Cloisonne®, Timica®, Chione®, Pearl- Gio® or Bi-Lite® trade names by BASF.

[0218] Organic pigments are, for example, the natural pigments sepia, gamboge, bone charcoal, Cassel brown, indigo, chlorophyll and other plant pigments.

[0219] Synthetic organic pigments are, for example, azo pigments, anthraquinoids, indigoids, dioxazine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, perylene and perinone, metal complex, alkali blue and diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments.

[0220] Especially suitable are, for instance, silica, silicates, aluminates, aluminas, mica, salts, especially organic metal salts, metal oxides, e.g. titanium dioxide, optionally in combination with fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments.

[0221] SENSORY ADDITIVES

[0222] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a sensory additive. Examples of suitable sensory additives include Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Tapoca, Dimethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer or Polymethyl silsequioxane.

[0223] COOLANTS

[0224] The cosmetic ingredient according to the present invention can be a coolant. Examples of suitable coolants include ethanol, menthol and / or camphor. Further possible implementations or alternative solutions of the invention also encompass combinations - that are not explicitly mentioned herein - of features described above or below in regard to the embodiments. The person skilled in the art may also add individual or isolate aspects and features to the most basic form of this disclosure. Other features will become apparent from the following detailed description considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings. It is to be understood, however, that the drawings are designed solely for purposes of illustration and not as a definition of the limits, for which reference should be made to the appended claims. It should be further understood that the drawings are not drawn to scale and that they are merely intended to conceptually illustrate the structures and procedures described herein.

[0225] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0226] In the following, the present disclosure is further described with reference to the enclosed figures:

[0227] Fig. 1 illustrates an example user interface for formulation selection based on the determined stability of the formulation to be selected.

[0228] Fig. 2 illustrates an example user interface for emollient selection based on stability, viscosity, and further performance properties of the formulation to be selected.

[0229] Fig. 3 illustrates an example apparatus for determining stability and further properties of a formulation.

[0230] Fig. 4 illustrates an example data structure and data-driven model for determining stability of the formulation.

[0231] Fig. 5 illustrates another example data structure and data-driven model for determining further properties of the formulation that are not related to stability.

[0232] Fig. 6 illustrates a method for determining stability of a formulation including at least one emollient and at least one emulsifier.

[0233] Fig. 7 illustrates an example method for selecting at least one stable formulation or formulation ingredient to produce a stable formulation.

[0234] Fig. 8 illustrates an example method for selecting a stable formulation or formulation ingredient to produce a stable formulation based on further performance properties.

[0235] The following Figures illustrate the methods, apparatuses, formulations, systems, computer elements and uses disclosed herein based at least in part on examples of formulations for personal or skin care. The same principles apply to cosmetic formulation for hair care. In both instances different ingredients such as surfactant(s) and / or emulsifier(s) may impact the stability of the formulation. Fig. 1 illustrates an example user interface for formulation selection based on the determined stability of the formulation to be selected.

[0236] The example user interface may relate to an emulsion as formulation including at least one emollient and at least one emulsifier as ingredient. The formulation may include further ingredients such as polymers. The user interface may display the emollient mixture to be selected by a user. The user interface may, based on the selected emollient mixture or based on user input, provide the emollients and their respective amounts. For example, based on the selected emollient mixture selected by a user the emollients and their respective amounts may be retrieved from a data base storing emollient mixtures in relation to the emollients and their respective amounts.

[0237] The user interface may display the emulsifier to be selected by the user and the emulsifier amount to be provided by the user. Optionally further ingredients may be specified by the user such as polymer ingredient(s) and respective amount(s).

[0238] Based on the user specification of the ingredients to be considered for producing the formulation one or more stability criteria may be determined in a data-driven manner. For example, the specified formulation ingredients may be provided to a data-driven model trained or parametrized based on ingredient combinations defining the formulation and their respective stability. The data driven model may be provided on its input with a combination of ingredients defining the formulation and may determine based on such input determine at least one stability criterion. Such criterion may relate to a classifier signifying the ingredient combination as stable yes or no.

[0239] If the ingredient combination relating to the formulation to be produced is determined to be stable, the download option for the formulation recipe may be activated and the formulation recipe may be provided for download. If the ingredient combination relating to the formulation to be produced is determined not to be stable, the download option for the formulation recipe may be deactivated and the formulation recipe may not be provided for download.

[0240] In addition, to the stability determination for the ingredient combination defining the formulation further properties of the formulation may be determined such as emollient properties such as spreadability, surface tension, viscosity, sensory performance parameters, sun protection factor or the like.

[0241] Fig. 2 illustrates an example user interface for emollient selection based on stability, viscosity, and further performance properties of the formulation to be selected.

[0242] The user interface illustrated in Fig. 2 differs from the user interface in Fig. 1 by selection metric. In the example of Fig. 2 not the formulation with its combination of ingredients but one ingredient of the formulation - in the example the emollient - may be selected. The emulsifier may be selected by the user as one ingredient of the formulation. The emulsifier amount and the targeted emollient amount may be provided by the user. Based on such inputs the multiple possible ingredient combinations including different emollient ingredients may be generated and for each combination the stability of the formulation including the different emollient ingredients may be determined as described in the context of Fig. 1. The stability for the different emollient ingredients may be provided to determine emollient ingredients as part of the ingredient combination of the formulation that are stable. The emollient ingredients and their determined stability for the ingredient combination of the formulation may be displayed for selection of the emollient by the user.

[0243] Based on the emollient selection be the user the ingredient combination relating to the formulation recipe may be provided for download. If the ingredient combination relating to the formulation to be produced is determined to be stable, the download option for the formulation recipe may be activated and the formulation recipe may be provided for download. If the ingredient combination relating to the formulation to be produced is determined not to be stable, the download option for the formulation recipe may be deactivated and the formulation recipe may not be provided for download.

[0244] Optionally the emollient ingredients and their determined stability for the ingredient combination of the formulation may be filtered based on further performance measures for the formulation such as spreadability, surface tension, viscosity, sensory performance, sun protection factor or the like. The filtering may include providing the formulation combinations including different emollients to data-driven models determining respective performance measures based on the formulation ingredients. The filtered emollient selection may be displayed for selection of the emollient by the user. This way the formulation design and production can be guided based on the stability of the resulting formulation and further performance properties of the formulation as determined in a data-driven manner.

[0245] Figs. 1 and 2 relate to formulations including at least one emulsifier and at least one emollient, so called emulsions. These examples are mere illustrative examples and shall not be considered limiting. For example, the production of personal care or cosmetic products may be similarly guided based on the formulation ingredients and the resulting formulation properties. Personal care or cosmetic products may include any type of product suitable to treat skin or body. The personal care or cosmetic products for example include sunscreens, body lotions, face masks, face creams, face serums, body mists, body sprays, face gels or the like.

[0246] Further for example, the production of hair product formulations may be similarly guided based on the formulation ingredients and the resulting formulation properties. Hair products may include any type of product suitable to treat hair. Hair products may include care and / or styling products suitable to treat hair. Hair products for example include shampoos, conditioners, deep conditioners, hair masks, hair serums, hair sprays, hair styling products, hair mists, hair color products, hair dyes or the like.

[0247] Fig. 3 illustrates an example apparatus for determining stability and further properties of a formulation.

[0248] The computing apparatus for determining stability of a formulation may comprise a user interface communicatively coupled to a central intelligence processing layer. The user interface may be configured to provide a request including ingredient combination of the formulation as selected by the user and optionally target properties to be fulfilled by the formulation.

[0249] The processing layer may include an instruction agent configured to generate a model input and a model selection. The instruction agent may be configured to generate one or more formulation representations to be provided to the selected model. The processing layer may include a model store configured to store models for determining one or more properties of the formulation and in particular to determine the stability of the formulation. The processing layer may include a model execution engine configured to determine properties of the formulation and in particular the stability of the formulation.

[0250] The instruction agent may be configured to generate the model input based on the provided request. If the request includes the ingredient combination as for example described in the context of Fig. 1, the instruction agent may be configured to generate the model input including such ingredient combination and may select the model configured to determine the stability of the formulation specified by the ingredient combination. If the request includes the partial ingredient combination and properties to be fulfilled by the formulation as for example described in the context of Fig. 2, the instruction agent may be configured to generate multiple model inputs including such partial ingredient combination. The instruction agent may be configured to generate multiple ingredient combinations including differing ingredients to complete the formulation. The instruction agent may be configured to generate the model input including such ingredient combinations with differing ingredients to complete the formulation and may select the model configured to determine the stability of the formulations specified by the ingredient combinations. Based on the stable formulations specified by the ingredient combinations the instruction agent may be configured to select the models configured to determine the specified properties. Once the properties are determined, the instruction agent may be configured to provide at least the ingredients to complete the formulation for which the formulation was determined to be stable and to fulfill the specified properties.

[0251] The instruction agent may be communicatively coupled to the user interface, to the model store and to the model execution engine. The model execution engine may be communicatively coupled to the model store and the instruction agent. The model execution engine may be configured to access the model store and access the model based on the instructions provided by the instruction agent. The model execution engine may be configured to provide the input provided by the instruction agent to the accessed model and execute the model. The model execution engine may be configured to provide the output of the model based on the input provided by the instruction agent to the instruction agent. The instruction agent may be configured to provide the output to the user interface and stable ingre- dient(s) and / or ingredient combination(s) for download by the user.

[0252] Fig. 4 illustrates an example data structure and data-driven model for determining stability of the formulation. Fig. 4a illustrates the data structure for training the data-driven model for determining stability of the formulation illustrated in Fig. 4b. These are mere illustrative examples and other data structures and data-driven models may be employed.

[0253] The example data structure illustrated of Fig. 4a includes a formulation identifier ID, formulation ingredients 11, 12, 13 and the amount per ingredient A1 , A2, A3. The data structure further includes the type of formulation - in this example different variants of water-in-oil W / O, oil-in-water O / W, gel, cream and so on. Lastly the data includes the stability properties S1 , S2 of the formulation as defined by the ingredient combination and the respective amounts per ingredient. The stability properties S1 , S2 may be measured properties. The stability properties may be measured according to a pre-defined test procedure. The stability properties may be measured for each formulation. Based on the stability properties S1 a classifier stable yes or no S2 may be provided as aggregate value of the stability properties.

[0254] The stability may depend on the formulation and may be defined by one or more stability properties such as stability properties measured by stability tests. During stability testing, the cosmetic formula samples may be exposed to different environmental and / or storage conditions for a set period of time to simulate and analyze what will happen to the formulation during its life cycle. Test procedures may include temperature variations, cycle testing, centrifuge testing, light exposure testing, mechanical shock testing and others. Samples may be evaluated for various parameters to notice any possible change. Examples of such tests are specified by ISO standards such as ISO / TR 18811 :2018(en), Cosmetics — Guidelines on the stability testing of cosmetic products or others for example as cited therein. Examples of such tests include thermal stress test storing formulations at different temperatures from -5 to 45 °C and evaluating macroscopic stability and texture as well as determining viscosity as well as pH value. Other tested properties may relate to crystal formation, organoleptic properties such as evaluation of color, odor and appearance, physico-chemical or biological properties such as pH value, viscosity, density, the monitoring of formulation ingredients, microbiological stability such as microbial count or challenge test. In addition to the above definition or alternatively to the definition, stability may also define if the formulation contains UV filters that recrystallize with time. This may be directly visible in microscopy pictures of the formulation e.g. after a storage time or stability test procedure.

[0255] The example data-driven model of Fig. 4b illustrates a logistic regression model as classification model. However, this is not considered limiting and other classification model architectures such as gradient boosting, random forest or more advanced neural networks may be similarly applicable as case may be. In selection of the model architecture capable of capturing the observations in the data structure while not capturing too much noise (overfitting) different aspects may play a role: the data pattern or signatures, the predictor, the variables, the number of data point or observations required, the compute resources required and the like.

[0256] The data driven model may be trained to provide based on the formulation specification the stability classification for such formulation specification. As noted in Fig. 4a the formulation specification may relate to the ingredients of the formulation and the amount per ingredient. The data set as e.g. specified in Fig. 4a may be split into training and test set. The training set may be used to train the model. The test set may be used to test the model performance after training.

[0257] As illustrated in Fig. 4b logistics regression is based on linear regression including a sigmoid function to generate a S-shaped prediction curve. The assessment of the model performance may be conducted based on splitting the training data into training and test set. For classification models a common metric to assess model performance includes the confusion matrix mapping true positives, true negatives, false positives, and false negatives or derived measures such as recall, precision or F1-metric. Fig. 4b illustrates an example of the confusion matrix for the training data set (top) and the test data (bottom). As can be noted the model trained in this example case performs well on the training data set with an accuracy of more than 90% and performs less well but still with an accuracy of 80%. In relation to the stability classification for formulations the accuracy achieved by the model can be viewed sufficient, since lab tests on production of the formulation will capture false positive classification while false negative classifications may not impact the production of formulations.

[0258] Fig. 5 illustrates another example data structure and data-driven model for determining further properties of the formulation that are not related to stability.

[0259] Fig. 5a illustrates the data structure for training the data-driven model for determining viscosity of the formulation illustrated in Fig. 5b. These are mere illustrative examples and other data structures and data-driven models for determining viscosity or other properties of the formulation may be employed.

[0260] Similar to the data structure illustrated in Fig. 4a, the formulation ingredients are specified per formulation ID and the viscosity as measured per formulation is provided as formulation property. The data-driven model may in the simplest case include a multi-variate linear regression model. However, this is not considered limiting and other classification model architectures such as gradient boosting, random forest or more advanced neural networks may be similarly applicable as case may be. In selection of the model architecture capable of capturing the observations in the data structure while not capturing too much noise (overfitting) different aspects may play a role: the data pattern or signatures, the predictor, the variables, the number of data point or observations required, the compute resources required and the like. As described in the context of Fig. 4b, the model may be trained and tested on the training data. Fig. 5a illustrates an example result of the linear regression for viscosity prediction.

[0261] Fig. 6 illustrates a method for determining stability of a formulation including at least one emollient and at least one emulsifier.

[0262] One or more formulation specification(s) including an ingredient combination may be provided. The ingredient combination may be associated with the formulation recipe for production of the formulation. The ingredient combination may relate to the ingredients to be included in the formulation. The ingredient combination may include the ingredients to be included into the formulation and / or the quantity such as amount of ingredient to be included in the formulation. The ingredient combination may include the ingredients to be included into the formulation and the quantity such as amount per ingredient to be included in the formulation.

[0263] Optionally the one or more formulation specification(s) may be pre-processed to include specification related to one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the provided one or more formulation specification(s). The formulation specification (s) may be incomplete in the sense of ingredients to be included. The formulation specification (s) may at least for one ingredient specify an ingredient type such as ultraviolet protector, emollient, emulsifier, polymer. The formulation specification (s) may at least for one ingredient specify the quantity of the ingredient. The formulation specification (s) may at least for one ingredient specify the ingredient type and / or the quantity of the ingredient. The formulation specification(s) may at least for one ingredient not specify the ingredient. The formulation specification(s) may at least for one ingredient lack the specification of the at least one ingredient type and / or quantity.

[0264] The one or more formulation specification (s) may be checked for completeness of the specification. For example, a rule-based ingredient check may be performed by comparing the ingredients and amounts per ingredient provided per formulation specification. The ingredient check rule may relate to different formulation types. The ingredient check rule may relate to a minimum ingredients or ingredient types to be included into the formulation specification. The ingredient check rule may relate to a minimum amount per ingredient or ingredient type to be included into the formulation specification.

[0265] If one or more ingredient(s) are identified to be missing in the provided one or more formulation specification (s), the one or more formulation specification(s) may be adapted or modified to include one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the formulation specification (s). If one or more ingredient amount(s) are identified to be missing in the provided one or more formulation specification(s), the one or more formulation specification(s) may be adapted or modified to include one or more additional amount(s) not specified by the formulation specification(s). This way errors in the formulation specification can be avoided and the reliability of the stability determination as well as the formulation recipe for production can be enhanced.

[0266] At least one stability property may be generated by providing the one or more formulation specification(s) to a data- driven model configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s). The stability property may relate to one or more stability criterion / a. The stability property and / or the stability criterion may be represented by numeric values quantifying the stability of the formulation according to the formulation specification. The stability property and / or the stability criterion may be represented by one or more class label (s) signifying the stability of the formulation according to the formulation specification. The stability property may relate to or include at least one classifier classifying the formulation according to the formulation specification to be stable or not stable.

[0267] The data-driven model may be configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s). The formulation specification(s) may include the ingredients and the quantity per ingredient. The formulation specification(s) may signify the ingredients by labelling one or more ingredient(s) of a predefined list of ingredients to be included into the formulation. The formulation specification(s) may signify the quantity per ingredient by a numeric value of the quantity to be included into the formulation.

[0268] The data-driven model may be trained on training data including the formulation specifications and the corresponding stability properties e.g. as described in the context of Figs. 4 and 5. The data-driven model may include a stability model configured to generate numeric values of one or more stability properties or criteria. The stability of the formulation according to the formulation specification may be determined based on the generated numeric values of one or more stability properties or criteria. The data-driven model may include a stability model configured to generate class label(s) of one or more stability properties or criteria. The stability of the formulation according to the formulation specification may be determined based on the class label(s). The stability model may include a classification model configured to generate class label(s) related to the stability of the of the formulation according to the formulation specification.

[0269] The at least one stability property of the one or more formulation specification (s) and / or optionally of the one or more additional ingredient(s) included into one or more one or more formulation specification(s) may be provided. Based on the at least one stability property stable formulation specification (s) and / or optionally additional ingredient(s) included into one or more one or more stable formulation specification (s) may be determined. The stable formulation specification (s) and / or optionally additional ingredient(s) included into one or more one or more stable formulation specification(s) may be provided.

[0270] Fig. 7 illustrates an example method for selecting at least one stable formulation or formulation ingredient to produce a stable formulation.

[0271] One or more formulation specification(s) including the ingredient combination and at least one formulation target property may be provided. The target property may relate to any physio-chemical property or performance property of the formulation according to the formulation specification. The target property may relate to any physio-chemical property or performance property of the formulation excluding the stability properties or criteria. The target property may relate to viscosity, sun protection factor, naturalness, rheological properties or the like.

[0272] Optionally the one or more formulation specification(s) may be pre-process to include specification related to one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the formulation specification(s) as e.g. described in the context of Fig. 6.

[0273] At least one stability property may be generated by providing the one or more formulation specification(s) to a data- driven model configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided on or more formulation specification(s) as e.g. described in the context of Fig. 6. According to the at least one generated stability property per formulation specification, one or more stable formulation specification(s) may be determined and provided.

[0274] At least one formulation property may be generated based on the formulation target property by providing the one or more stable formulation specification (s) to a data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided on or more stable formulation specification (s). The data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property may be target property specific or may be trained on a specific target property. The data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property may be selected based on the at least one target property provided. The data-driven model trained on the specific target property may be selected. The data-driven model trained on the specific target property may be contextualized with meta data relating to the specific target property. The data-driven model trained on the specific target property may be stored in conjunction with meta data relating to the specific target property. The data-driven model trained on the specific target property may be selected and / or accessed based on the meta data relating to the specific target property. The data- driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property may be a multi property model configured to generate at least one out of multiple target properties.

[0275] The data-driven model may be trained on training data including the formulation specifications and the corresponding formulation properties e.g. as described in the context of Figs. 4 and 5. The data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property may include a numeric prediction or a classifier model. The formulation property according to the formulation specification may be determined based on numeric values of formulation property. The data-driven model may include a classification model configured to generate class label(s) of one or more formulation properties.

[0276] The one or more stable formulation specification(s) fulfilling the at least one formulation target property and / or optionally of the one or more additional ingredient(s) included into the one or more stable formulation specification (s) fulfilling the at least one formulation target property may be provided. The generated formulation properties of the one or more stable formulation specification(s) may be compared to the at least one target formulation property provided. The similarity between the generated formulation properties of the one or more stable formulation specification (s) and the provided at least one target property may be determined. The similarly may be determined according to any common measure of similarity such as distance ranges, absolute or relative distances, numeric distance measures, or the like. Based on the comparison and / or the similarity the one or more stable formulation specification(s) fulfilling the at least one formulation target property may be determined and provided. For example, similarity or comparison thresholds may be used to determine the stable formulation specification with one or more properties the closest to the furthest in distance form the target properties provided. The one or more stable formulation specification(s) fulfilling the at least one formulation target property may be ranked and provided including such ranking.

[0277] Fig. 8 illustrates an example method for selecting a stable formulation or formulation ingredient to produce a stable formulation based on further performance properties. At least one formulation target property may be provided. The target property may relate to any physio-chemical property or performance property of the formulation according to the formulation specification. The target property may relate to any physio-chemical property or performance property of the formulation excluding stability properties or criteria. The target property may relate to viscosity, sun protection factor, naturalness, rheological properties or the like.

[0278] One or more formulation specification (s) may be generated based at least one pre-defined rule and / or one or more formulation specification (s) with at least one property similar to the at least one target property.

[0279] At least one stability property may be generated by providing the one or more formulation specification(s) to a data- driven model configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided on or more formulation specification(s) as e.g. described in the context of Figs. 4, 7 or 8.

[0280] One or more stable formulation specification (s) according to the at least one generated stability property may be determined and provided as e.g. described in the context of Fig. 8.

[0281] Optionally at least one formulation property based on the formulation target property is generated by providing the one or more stable formulation specification(s) to a data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided on or more stable formulation specification(s). In particular the generated formulation property may differ from the formulation target property. The generated formulation property may complement, relate or depend on the formulation target property. For example, the viscosity may be the target property provided and the spreadability as well as the surface tension may be determined. Further for example, one sensory property such as waxiness may be the target property provided and further sensory properties such as light skin feel or cared for feel may be determined. This mapping may be pre-defined according to a rule set mapping the target property to the set of target properties to be generated. The data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property may be selected or configured e.g. as described in the context of Fig. 7.

[0282] The one or more stable formulation specification(s) and / or the one or more stable formulation specification (s) fulfilling the at least one formulation target property may be provided. The fulfilling of the target property may be determined as described in the context of Fig. 7. In addition further properties complementing, relating or depending on the target property may be provided.

[0283] The present disclosure has been described in conjunction with preferred embodiments and examples as well. However, other variations can be understood and effected by those persons skilled in the art and practicing the claimed invention, from the studies of the drawings, this disclosure and the claims. Any steps presented herein can be performed in any order. The methods disclosed herein are not limited to a specific order of these steps. It is also not required that the different steps are performed at a certain place or in a certain computing node of a distributed system, i.e. each of the steps may be performed at different computing nodes using different equipment / data processing.

[0284] As used herein ..determining" also includes ..initiating or causing to determine", "generating" also includes ..initiating and / or causing to generate" and "providing” also includes "initiating or causing to determine, generate, select, send and / or receive”. "Initiating or causing to perform an action” includes any processing signal that triggers a computing node or device to perform the respective action.

[0285] In the claims as well as in the description the word "comprising” or "including” or similar wording does not exclude other elements or steps and shall not be construed limiting to the elements or steps lined out. The indefinite article "a” or "an” does not exclude a plurality. A single element or other unit may fulfill the functions of several entities or items recited in the claims. The mere fact that certain measures are recited in the mutual different dependent claims does not indicate that a combination of these measures cannot be used in an advantageous implementation or further elements may be included.

[0286] The expressions "A and / or B” and "at least one of: A or B” are considered interchangeable and meant to comprise any one of the following three scenarios: (I) A, (ii) B, (ill) A and B. More generally, the expression "at least one of the following: ” and "at least one of ” and similar wording, where the list of two or more elements are joined by "and” or "or”, mean at least any one of the elements, or at least any two or more of the elements, or at least all the elements, so the wording includes any combinations of the elements.

[0287] Various units, circuits, entities, nodes or other computing components may be described as "configured to” perform a task or tasks. Configured to shall recite structure meaning "having circuitry that” performs the task or tasks on operation. The units, circuits, entities, nodes or other computing components can be configured to perform the task even when the unit / circuit / component is not operating. The units, circuits, entities, nodes or other computing components that form the structure corresponding to "configured to” may include hardware circuits and / or memory storing program instructions executable to implement the operation. The units, circuits, entities, nodes or other computing components may be described as performing a task or tasks, for convenience in the description. Such descriptions shall be interpreted as including the phrase "configured to.”

[0288] Providing in the scope of this disclosure may include any interface configured to provide data. This may include an application programming interface, a human-machine interface such as a display and / or a software module interface. Providing may include communication of data or submission of data to the interface, in particular display to a user or use of the data by the receiving entity. Any disclosure and embodiments described herein relate to methods, systems, apparatuses, devices, chemicals, materials, services, uses, computer program elements lined out above and vice versa. Advantageously, the benefits provided by any of the embodiments and examples equally apply to all other embodiments and examples and vice versa. It will further be understood that any feature presented for an example embodiment in a particular category (method / apparatus / computer program / system) may also be used in a corresponding manner in an example embodiment of any other category.

[0289] All terms and definitions used herein are understood broadly and have their general meaning, if not indicated otherwise.

Claims

CLAIMS1 . A method for determining one or more stable formulation(s), wherein the formulation includes one or more ingredient(s), the method comprising the steps of: providing one or more formulation specification (s), wherein the formulation specification is related to an ingredient combination, determining at least one stability property by providing the one or more formulation specification (s) to a data-driven model, wherein the data-driven model is configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specification(s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification (s) and at least one corresponding stability property as measured for one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification(s), providing the at least one stability property per formulation specification for the one or more formulations), wherein the at least one stability property indicates the stability of the corresponding formulation.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the stability property relates to one or more criteria measurable by a testing procedure for assessing the ability of the formulation to maintain one or more initial properties under changing conditions.

3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the stability property relates to a physical, chemical, microbiological, sensorial and / or functional property of the formulation which when measured over time signifies a stable formulation.

4. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein the stability property relates to a categorical stability label derivable from one or more criteria measurable by a testing procedure for assessing the ability of the formulation to maintain one or more initial properties under changing conditions.

5. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein the formulation specification specifies a set of ingredients used for producing the formulation, wherein the formulation specification specifies at least one base formulation and at least one active ingredient.

6. The method of any of the preceding claims, additionally including the step of pre-processing the one or more formulation specification (s) to include a specification related to one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the formulation specification(s), wherein the at least one stability property is provided for one or more additional ingredient(s) included per formulation specification.

7. The method of any of the preceding claims, additionally including the step of determining one or more stable formulation specification (s) according to the at least one stability property determined by the data-driven model, wherein the one or more formulation specification(s) categorized as stable according to the at least one stability property is / are provided.

8. The method of any of the preceding claims, additionally including the step of providing at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification (s) and determining at least one formulation property per formulation specification, wherein the one or more formulation specification (s) are provided based on the at least one stability property and the at least one formulation target property.

9. The method of any of the preceding claims, additionally including the step of providing at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification (s) and determining at least one formulation property per formulation specification, wherein the at least one formulation target property relates to a performance property, wherein the at least one formulation target property is different to the stability property and / or the at least one formulation target property is a property in addition to the stability property.

10. The method of any of the preceding claims, additionally including the step of providing at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification (s), wherein at least one formulation property based on a formulation target property is determined by providing the one or more formulation specifica- tion(s) to a data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided one or more formulation specification (s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification(s) and at least one corresponding formulation target property as measured for the one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specifica- tion(s).11 . The method of any of claims 8 to 10, wherein the one or more formulation specification (s) categorized as stable according to the at least one stability property and / or fulfilling the at least one formulation target property is / are provided.

12. The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein providing one or more formulation specification(s) includes providing at least one formulation target property and generating one or more formulation specifica- tion(s) based on the at least one formulation target property.

13. An apparatus for determining one or more stable formulation(s), wherein the formulation includes one or more ingredient(s), the apparatus comprising: an input interface configured to provide one or more formulation specification(s), wherein the formulation specification related to an ingredient combination,an execution engine configured to determine at least one stability property by providing the one or more formulation specification(s) to a data-driven model, wherein the data-driven model is configured to generate the at least one stability property based on the provided one or more formulation specifica- tion(s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification(s) and at least one corresponding stability property as measured for one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification(s), an output interface configured to provide the at least one stability property per formulation specification for the one or more formulation(s), wherein the at least one stability property indicates the stability of the corresponding formulation.

14. The apparatus of claim 13 further comprising: a pre-processing engine configured to pre-process the one or more formulation specification(s) to include a specification related to one or more additional ingredient(s) not specified by the formulation specification(s), wherein the at least one stability property is provided for one or more additional ingre- dient(s) included per formulation specification, and / or a determination unit configured to determine one or more stable formulation specification (s) according to the at least one stability property determined by the data-driven model, and / or the input interface further configured to provide at least one formulation target property in relation to one or more formulation specification(s), and / or the determination unit further configured to determine at least one formulation property per formulation specification, and / or the output interface further configured to provide the one or more formulation specification(s) based on the at least one stability property and the at least one target property, and / or the execution engine further configured to determine at least one formulation property based on a formulation target property by providing the one or more formulation specification (s) to a data-driven model configured to generate the at least one formulation property based on the provided on or more formulation specification(s), wherein the data-driven model is parametrized on a historic data set including one or more formulation specification(s) and at least one corresponding formulation target property as measured for the one or more formulation(s) specified by the one or more formulation specification(s).

15. Use of the one or more formulation specification (s) provided based on the at least one stability property and / or the at least one target property according to claims 1 to 12 or by the apparatus of claim 13 or 14 for producing a formulation according to the provided formulation specification(s).

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