Garment containing stretchable woven fabric and low-stretchability woven fabric

Abstract

Provided is a garment including a stretchable woven fabric, the garment having not only high stretchability and stretch recovery properties but also a low washing shrinkage rate, having an exceptional body shape correction effect, and being beautiful when worn. 　Provided is a garment having a front body (1a, 1a) and a rear body (1b, 1b) formed mainly of woven fabrics, one of the front body (1a, 1a) and the rear body (1b, 1b) including a stretchable fabric in at least a portion thereof, and the other of the front body (1a, 1a) and the rear body (1b, 1b) being formed mainly of a low-stretchability woven fabric, wherein the constant load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of the stretchable woven fabric is 30% or greater, the elongation recovery rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction thereof is 85% or greater, the constant load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of the low-stretchability woven fabric is 10% or less, and the difference (absolute value) between the value (%) of the washing shrinkage rate in the weft direction of the stretchable woven fabric and the value (%) of the washing shrinkage rate in the weft direction of the low-stretchability woven fabric is 3% or less.

Description

Garments containing stretch and low stretch fabrics

[0001] The present invention relates to clothing comprising a stretchable fabric and a low-stretchable fabric, and more particularly to clothing comprising a stretchable fabric and a low-stretchable fabric, which has high stretchability and stretch recovery as well as low washing shrinkage, and which has excellent body shape correction effects and is beautiful when worn.

[0002] Trousers and jackets made of stretchable fabrics containing elastic yarns such as polyurethane yarns and polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns can be worn comfortably and without stress due to the fabric's flexibility in response to body movements. However, while stretch jeans made of stretchable fabrics are easy to put on and take off and allow for freedom of movement when worn, they are poor at correcting the shape of the buttocks, and as a result, wrinkles may form in the areas covering the buttocks and below, resulting in a lack of aesthetic appeal when worn.

[0003] Therefore, International Publication No. 2011 / 136066 (Patent Document 1) discloses stretchable trousers made of a weft-double woven fabric, including a region A with high stretch resistance in the weft direction and a region B with low stretch resistance, in which the lateral stretch resistance in the thigh area of ​​the back body is stronger than the lateral stretch resistance in the area near the hem. Patent Document 1 describes a shape-correcting effect for the buttocks by designating at least the thigh area as region A and the area below the thigh as region B. The weft-direction stretch resistance in regions A and B is changed by varying the ratio of elastic yarn to other yarns or the fineness of the elastic yarn on the back side of the weft-double woven fabric, while the same yarn is used on the front side of the weft-double woven fabric. Using the same yarn on the front side of the weft-double woven fabric allows for a uniform appearance in regions A and B.

[0004] However, the use of a double-woven fabric results in a thick fabric, making it impossible to wear trousers during hot seasons or in hot places, and also poses the problem of a large amount of yarn being required for production, which increases the product price. Furthermore, changing the ratio of elastic yarn to other yarns or the fineness of the elastic yarn to form the above-mentioned regions A and B complicates the weaving process, which increases the production cost.

[0005] Stretch fabrics also generally have a high degree of shrinkage in washing, which often impairs the design of garments made from them, and this shrinkage becomes even higher if the elastic yarns constituting the stretch fabric are drafted during weaving.

[0006] Therefore, WO 2019 / 139177 (Patent Document 2) discloses an elastic woven fabric having not only high elongation and elongation recovery but also low shrinkage after washing, and stretch jeans using this woven fabric, in which the weft yarn contains an elastic composite yarn that includes an elastic core yarn and a sheath yarn that covers the elastic core yarn, and the elongation ratio of the elastic composite yarn in the elastic woven fabric during weaving is kept to 1.30 times or less with respect to the elastic composite yarn before weaving, and stretch jeans using this woven fabric.

[0007] The stretch fabric of Patent Document 2 is a single-ply fabric, and therefore stretch jeans are obtained that are easy to move in, put on and take off, and have a low shrinkage rate after washing without increasing the thickness of the fabric. However, these stretch jeans are insufficient in correcting the shape of the buttocks, and as a result, wrinkles may occur in the buttocks and below.

[0008] International Publication No. WO 2011 / 136066 International Publication No. WO 2019 / 139177

[0009] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide clothing that contains an elastic fabric, has high stretchability and stretch recovery, as well as low washing shrinkage, has excellent body shape correction effects, and is beautiful when worn.

[0010] As a result of intensive research in light of the above-mentioned object, the inventors have discovered that if a garment is constructed in which at least a portion of either the front or back body is made of an elastic fabric and the other of the front or back body is made mainly of a low-elasticity fabric, and the difference (absolute value) between the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the elastic fabric and the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the low-elasticity fabric is 3% or less, the garment will have not only high stretchability and stretch recovery but also a low washing shrinkage value, and will have excellent body shape correction effects and look beautiful when worn, thereby arriving at the present invention.

[0011] That is, the garment comprising the stretchable woven fabric and low stretchable woven fabric of the present invention has a front body and a back body formed mainly of woven fabric, wherein one of the front body or the back body comprises at least a portion of the stretchable woven fabric, and the other of the front body or the back body is formed mainly of a low stretchable woven fabric, characterized in that the stretchable woven fabric has a constant load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of 30% or more and a stretch recovery rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of 85% or more, the low stretchable woven fabric has a constant load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of 10% or less, and the difference (absolute value) between the washing shrinkage rate value (%) in the weft direction of the stretchable woven fabric and the washing shrinkage rate value (%) in the weft direction of the low stretchable woven fabric is 3% or less.

[0012] In a preferred example of the present invention, the difference (absolute value) between the bending resistance (ASTM-D-4032-94) value (N) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric and the bending resistance (ASTM-D-4032-94) value (N) in the weft direction of the low stretchable fabric is 15N or less.

[0013] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the difference (absolute value) between the warp density (counts / cm) of the stretch fabric and the warp density (counts / cm) of the low stretch fabric is 2 counts / cm or less.

[0014] In yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the shrinkage rate of the stretchable fabric in the weft direction after washing is 5% or less.

[0015] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the garment is a lower-body garment having a portion covering the lower torso of the wearer and a pair of leg-covering portions covering at least a portion of each leg, the front body being formed primarily from the stretchable fabric and the back body being formed primarily from the low-stretchable fabric.

[0016] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the lower body garment is a trouser-type lower body garment in which the pair of leg-covering portions cover at least a portion of the wearer's thighs and lower legs, and the front body is made of the stretchable fabric and the back body is made of the low-stretch fabric.

[0017] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the garment has a portion covering the upper and middle torso of the wearer and a pair of arm-covering portions covering at least a portion of each arm, the front body being formed mainly from the low-stretch fabric and the back body being an upper-body garment that includes at least a portion of the stretch fabric.

[0018] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the upper body garment is a jacket-type upper body garment in which the pair of arm covering portions cover at least a portion of the wearer's upper arms and forearms, the back body portion comprises a rear center body portion and rear side body portions on both sides, the pair of arm covering portions each comprise a front sleeve switching fabric and a back sleeve switching fabric, the rear side body portions of the rear body portion and the back sleeve switching fabrics of the pair of arm covering portions are made of a stretchable fabric, and the front body portion, the rear center body portion of the back body portion, and the front sleeve switching fabrics of the pair of arm covering portions are each made of the low-stretch fabric.

[0019] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the stretchable woven fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising a stretchable composite yarn comprising an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber composited with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, wherein the stretchable composite yarn is at least one selected from the group consisting of: a covered yarn in which a yarn made of the different material fiber is spirally wound around the periphery of the elastic fiber yarn; a core spun yarn obtained by spinning the elastic fiber yarn together with a staple fiber roving made of the different material fiber, and having a core-sheath structure having a core component made of the elastic fiber yarn and a sheath component made of a staple fiber yarn formed from the staple fiber roving; an entangled composite yarn obtained by entangling a filament yarn made of the different material fiber around the periphery of the elastic fiber yarn; and a plied-twisted composite yarn in which the elastic fiber yarn and the yarn made of the different material fiber are directly plied and twisted together, and the elongation of the stretchable composite yarn is 30% or more, and the elastic recovery of the stretchable composite yarn is 70% or more.

[0020] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the elastic woven fabric comprises weft yarns including elastic composite yarns that include elastic fiber yarns and yarns made of fibers of different materials combined with the elastic fiber yarns, and warp yarns including chemical fiber yarns and / or natural fiber yarns, wherein the elongation of the elastic composite yarns is 30% or more, the elastic recovery of the elastic composite yarns is 70% or more, and the total fineness of the elastic composite yarns per cm width in the warp direction is 3,000 dtex / cm or more.

[0021] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the stretchable woven fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising a stretchable composite yarn comprising an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber composited with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, wherein the stretchable composite yarn is a single covered yarn formed by winding a thread made of the different material fiber as a sheath yarn in a spiral shape around an elastic core yarn made of the elastic fiber yarn in a single layer, the number of turns of the sheath yarn per meter of the stretchable core yarn being 1,000 to 2,500 T / m, the elongation rate of the stretchable composite yarn being 30% or more, and the elastic recovery rate of the stretchable composite yarn being 70% or more, and when the stretchable woven fabric is woven, the stretchable composite yarn maintains the elongation rate of 30% or more, and the elongation ratio of the stretchable composite yarn in the stretchable woven fabric during weaving is maintained at 1.30 or less with respect to the stretchable composite yarn before weaving.

[0022] In yet another preferred example of the present invention, the stretchable woven fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising a stretchable composite yarn comprising an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber composited with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, wherein the stretchable composite yarn is a double-covered yarn obtained by winding a thread made of the different material fiber as a first twisted yarn and a second twisted yarn spirally twice around an elastic core yarn made of the elastic fiber yarn, the number of turns of the first twisted yarn per meter of the stretchable core yarn is 1,200 to 2,200 T / m, the number of turns of the second twisted yarn per meter of the stretchable core yarn is 1,200 to 2,200 T / m, the elongation of the stretchable composite yarn is 30% or more, and the elastic recovery of the stretchable composite yarn is 70% or more, During weaving of the elastic woven fabric, the elastic composite yarn maintains an elongation rate of 30% or more, and the elongation ratio of the elastic composite yarn in the elastic woven fabric during weaving is maintained at 1.30 times or less based on the elastic composite yarn before weaving.

[0023] In yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first twisted yarn of the sheath yarn of the double covered yarn is a polyester fiber yarn, and the second twisted yarn is a cotton yarn.

[0024] The garment comprising the stretchable fabric and low-stretchable fabric of the present invention has at least a portion of either the front or back body constructed from the stretchable fabric, and the other of the front or back body constructed primarily from the low-stretchable fabric, and is constructed so that the difference (absolute value) between the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric and the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the low-stretchable fabric is 3% or less.Therefore, the garment has not only high stretchability and stretch recovery, but also a low washing shrinkage value, and has excellent body shape correction effects, making it beautiful when worn.

[0025] 1(a) and 1(b) are a front view and a back view, respectively, showing an example of a garment of the present invention. FIG. 1(a) and 1(b) are an exploded view showing elements constituting the garment shown in FIG. 1. FIG. 1(a) and 1(b) are a front view and a back view, respectively, showing another example of the garment of the present invention. FIG. 3(a) and 1(b) are an exploded view showing elements constituting the garment shown in FIG. 3(a) and 1(b) are a front view and a back view, respectively, showing yet another example of the garment of the present invention. FIG. 1(a) and 1(b) are a front view and a back view, respectively, showing yet another example of the garment of the present invention. FIG. 1(a) and 1(b) are a perspective view schematically showing an example of an elastic composite yarn contained in an elastic woven fabric used in an elastic garment for lower limbs of the present invention. FIG. 1(a) is a front view schematically showing an example of an apparatus for producing an elastic composite yarn. FIG. 1(b) is a schematic perspective view showing an example of a loom for producing an elastic woven fabric. FIG. 1(b) is a process explanatory diagram schematically showing a weaving process using the loom shown in FIG. 9. FIG. 1(c) is a partially enlarged view schematically showing an air nozzle of the loom shown in FIG. 9 and its vicinity. FIG. 1(c) is a partially enlarged view schematically showing another example of an air nozzle. 1A is a partially enlarged view schematically showing yet another example of an air nozzle, and FIG. 1B is a cross-sectional view taken along the line A-A of FIG. 1A; FIG. 1C is a partially enlarged view schematically showing yet another example of an air nozzle; FIG. 1D is a flowchart showing an example of the relationship between the rotation angle (degrees) of the main shaft of a loom, and the movements of the sley sword and belt, each driven by the main shaft, and the weft insertion operation; FIG. 1A is a front view showing the state in which the jeans of Example 1 are worn, FIG. 1B is a front view showing the state in which the jeans of Comparative Example 1 are worn, FIG. 1C is a side view showing the state in which the jeans of Example 1 are worn, and FIG. 1D is a side view showing the state in which the jeans of Comparative Example 1 are worn.

[0026] Each embodiment of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, but the following description is not limiting and various modifications may be made within the scope of the technical idea of ​​the present invention.

[0027] A garment comprising the stretchable fabric and low-stretchable fabric of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes referred to simply as "garment of the present invention") has a front body and a back body formed primarily from the fabric, with one of the front body or the back body containing at least a portion of the stretchable fabric, and the other of the front body or the back body being formed primarily from the low-stretchable fabric.

[0028] [1] Structure of Garments Comprising Stretch Fabrics and Low-Stretch Fabrics (A) Lower-Body Garment Figures 1(a), 1(b), and 2 show an example of a garment of the present invention. In this example, the garment is a trouser-type (also called pants-type) lower-body garment (also known as bottoms) having a portion covering the wearer's lower torso and a pair of leg-covering portions. In the illustrated example, the trouser-type lower-body garment has, as its components, front body sections 1a, 1a; back body sections 1b, 1b; front pocket facings 1c, 1c and pockets 1d, 1d; coin pocket 1e; placket 1f; Tengu 1g; yoke 1h, 1h; patch pockets 1i, 1i; waist belt 1j; and a plurality of belt loops 1k.

[0029] In the trouser-type lower-body garment, the front body sections 1a, 1a are preferably made of a stretchable fabric (see the cross-hatched areas in Figs. 1(a) and 2) and the back body sections 1b, 1b are preferably made of a low-stretchable fabric (see the cross-hatched areas in Figs. 1(a) and 2) as described below. By using a stretchable fabric for the front body sections 1a, 1a, the trouser-type lower-body garment allows the fabric to stretch in accordance with body movement, allowing for stress-free and comfortable wearing, while by using a low-stretchable fabric for the back body sections 1b, 1b, a shape-correcting effect is obtained for the buttocks, and wrinkles are prevented from forming in the portion covering the buttocks and below, etc., so that the garment does not lose its aesthetic appeal when worn and there is no lack of strength in the portion covering the buttocks and the surrounding area.

[0030] Of the above components, components other than the front body 1a, 1a and the back body 1b, 1b may be formed from low-elasticity fabric, but if necessary, selected components from among them may be formed from elasticity fabric.

[0031] In the case of a pants-type lower-body garment, the stretch fabric forming the front body sections 1a, 1a and the low-stretch fabric forming the back body sections 1b, 1b and other components are preferably denim with a twill weave or chino cloth with a twill weave and warp yarns containing two-fold combed yarns. In the former case, the shape of jeans is obtained, and in the latter case, the shape of chino pants is obtained.

[0032] When the pants-type lower-body garment is jeans, the above-mentioned effects can be obtained regardless of the silhouette of the jeans to which the above-mentioned configuration is applied. In particular, for relatively narrow jeans such as skinny jeans or slim jeans, the above-mentioned effects are particularly pronounced when the front body portions 1a, 1a are made of a stretchable fabric and the back body portions 1b, 1b are made of a low-stretchable fabric.

[0033] In the illustrated example, the pair of leg covering parts are full-length pants formed long enough to cover the wearer's thighs and lower legs (from the knees to the ankles), but the length of the leg covering parts is not limited and may cover at least a part of each leg, for example, they may be long enough to expose the ankles (ankle pants), knee-length (half pants), or long enough to cover the base of the thighs (short pants), etc. The lower-body garment may also have only a lower-torso covering part without leg covering parts.

[0034] The pants-type lower body garment can be manufactured using a stretchable fabric and a low-stretchable fabric by a known sewing method.

[0035] 3(a), (b), and 4 show another example of the garment of the present invention. In this example, the garment is a jacket-type (also called a blouson-type or jumper-type) upper-body garment (a so-called top) having a portion covering the upper and middle torso of the wearer and a pair of arm-covering portions. In the illustrated example, the jacket-type upper-body garment has, as its components, front bodies 10a, 10a each consisting of a front center body 11a, a front inner body 11a', and a front side body 11a"; a back body 10b consisting of a back center body 11b and back side body parts 11b', 11b' on both sides of the back center body 11b; front yokes 10c, 10c; a back yoke 10d; front sleeve transition fabrics 10e, 10e; back sleeve transition fabrics 10f, 10f; a front collar 10g; a back collar 10h; a waist belt 10i; chest flaps 10j, 10j; chest pocket facing fabrics 10k, 10k; adjusters 10m, 10m; and cuffs 10n, 10n.

[0036] In this example of upper-body garment, it is preferable that at least the back side body sections 11b', 11b' and the back sleeve transition cloths 10f, 10f are made of a stretchable fabric (see the cross-hatched areas in Figures 3(a) and 3(b) and Figure 4). This configuration allows the areas of the upper-body garment that are particularly subject to tensile stress during putting on and taking off to stretch, making it comfortable to wear and easy to put on and take off.

[0037] Of the above components, the rear center body 11b, the front body 10a, 10a, and other components may be formed from low-stretch fabric, but if necessary, selected components from among them may be formed from stretch fabric.

[0038] The back body 10b may be formed from a single piece of fabric that covers almost the entire back of the wearer (not shown). In other words, the back center body 11b and the back side body sections 11b', 11b' on either side may be formed from a single piece of fabric, without being divided. In this case, the entire back body 10b may be formed from a stretchable fabric. The front body sections 10a, 10a may also be formed from a single piece of fabric that covers almost the entire chest and abdomen of the wearer (not shown). In other words, the front center body section 11a, the front inner body section 11a', and the front side body sections 11a" may be formed from a single piece of fabric, without being divided. In this case, the entire front body sections 10a, 10a may be formed from a low-stretch fabric, or may be formed from a stretchable fabric if necessary.

[0039] In the case of a jacket-type upper body garment, both the stretch fabric and the low stretch fabric are preferably denim having a twill weave, thereby obtaining the form of a denim jacket.

[0040] In the illustrated example, a pair of arm covering portions are long-sleeved and formed long enough to cover the upper arms and forearms, but the length of the arm covering portions is not limited and they may cover at least a portion of each arm, for example, they may be short-sleeved, reaching about elbow length or partway up the upper arms. The upper-body garment may also be sleeveless, with no arm covering portions and only covering the upper and middle torso.

[0041] Furthermore, the upper-body garment is not limited to a jacket type, but may be a shirt type (long-sleeved or short-sleeved), in which case, as described above, the back body 10b generally needs to be formed from a single piece of fabric that covers almost the entire back of the wearer, and each of the front body parts 10a, 10a generally needs to be formed from a single piece of fabric that covers almost the entire chest and abdomen of the wearer. In the case of a shirt type garment, it is preferable that both the stretch fabric and the low-stretch fabric are denim, chambray, or dungaree.

[0042] Jacket-type and shirt-type upper body garments can be manufactured using stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics by known sewing methods.

[0043] 5(a) and 5(b) show yet another example of the garment of the present invention. In this example, the garment is an overall-type upper and lower-body garment, which corresponds to the above-mentioned trouser-type lower-body garment, with a chest 1m, a back 1n, and shoulder straps 1p added. Specifically, the overall-type upper and lower-body garment differs from the above-mentioned trouser-type lower-body garment in that the front body includes front body sections 1a, 1a of the bottom part and a chest 1m, and the back body includes back body sections 1b, 1b of the bottom part and a back 1n, and also has shoulder straps 1p. Otherwise, the overall-type upper and lower-body garment is the same as the above-mentioned trouser-type lower-body garment.

[0044] In the case of overall-type garments for the upper and lower body, similarly to the above-mentioned trouser-type garments for the lower body, it is preferable that the front body sections 1a, 1a of the bottom section are made of a stretchable fabric (see the cross-hatched portion in FIG. 5(a)), and the back body sections 1b, 1b of the bottom section are made of a low-stretch fabric. By using a stretchable fabric for the front body sections 1a, 1a of the bottom section, the fabric stretches in accordance with the movement of the body, allowing for stress-free and comfortable wearing, while by using a low-stretch fabric for the back body sections 1b, 1b of the bottom section, a shape-correcting effect for the buttocks is obtained, and wrinkles are not formed in the portion covering the buttocks and below, etc., so that the beauty of the garment when worn is not impaired, and there is no lack of strength in the portion covering the buttocks and the surrounding area.

[0045] Of the components of the overall-type upper and lower body garment, the chest pad 1m, back pad 1n, shoulder straps 1p and other components may be formed from low-elasticity fabric, but if necessary, selected components from among these may be formed from elasticity fabric.

[0046] In the case of an overall-type garment for the upper and lower body, it is preferable that the stretch fabric forming the front body 1a, 1a of the bottom part, and the low-stretch fabric forming the back body 1b, 1b of the bottom part and other components are both denim with a twill weave, or chino cloth with a twill weave and containing two-fold combed yarn in the warp.

[0047] Overall-type upper and lower body garments can be manufactured using stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics by known sewing methods.

[0048] The upper and lower body garments may be salopettes (not shown), which are overall-type upper and lower body garments that do not have the back pad 1n. The salopette-type upper and lower body garments may be the same as the overall-type upper and lower body garments except that they do not have the back pad 1n, and therefore detailed description thereof will be omitted.

[0049] 6(a) and 6(b) show yet another example of the garment of the present invention. In this example, the garment is a jumpsuit-type garment for the upper and lower body, which is an integrated combination of the above-mentioned trouser-type lower-body garment and the above-mentioned jacket-type upper-body garment. Specifically, the jumpsuit-type garment for the upper and lower body includes front body portions 10a, 10a of a top part in addition to front body portions 1a, 1a of a bottom part as a front body portion, and includes back body portions 1b, 1b of a bottom part as a back body portion and a back body portion 10b of a top part as a back body portion. The other components are the same as those of the above-mentioned trouser-type lower-body garment and the above-mentioned jacket-type upper-body garment.

[0050] In the case of a one-piece garment for the upper and lower body parts, the front body parts 1a, 1a of the bottom part are made of a stretchable fabric, as in the above-mentioned trouser-type lower-body garment (see the cross-hatched portion in FIG. 6( a)), and the back body parts 1b, 1b of the bottom part are made of a low-stretch fabric, and, as in the above-mentioned jacket-type upper-body garment, the back side body parts 11b', 11b' and back sleeve transition cloths 10f, 10f of the top part are preferably made of a stretchable fabric (see the cross-hatched portion in FIGS. 6( a) and 6(b)). The use of a stretchable fabric for the front body parts 1a, 1a of the bottom part allows the fabric to stretch in accordance with body movement, allowing for a stress-free and comfortable wear, while the use of a low-stretch fabric for the back body parts 1b, 1b of the bottom part provides a shape-correcting effect for the buttocks and prevents wrinkles from forming in the part covering the buttocks and the area below it, thereby maintaining aesthetic appeal when worn and preventing a lack of strength in the part covering the buttocks and the surrounding area. In addition, by using stretchable fabric for the back side body parts 11b', 11b' and back sleeve transition fabrics 10f, 10f of the top part, the areas of the top part that are particularly subject to tensile stress when putting on and taking off the top part stretch, making it comfortable to wear without stress and easy to put on and take off.

[0051] Of the components of the jumpsuit-type upper and lower body garment, all components other than the front body 1a, 1a and back body 1b, 1b of the bottom part, and the back side body 11b', 11b' and back sleeve transition cloth 10f, 10f of the top part may be made of low-elasticity fabric, but if necessary, selected components from among these may be made of elasticity fabric.

[0052] In the case of a one-piece garment for the upper and lower body, it is preferable that the stretch fabric forming the front body 1a, 1a of the bottom part and the back side body 11b', 11b' and back sleeve transition fabric 10f, 10f of the top part, and the low-stretch fabric forming the other components are both denim with a twill weave or chino cloth with a twill weave and containing two-fold combed yarn in the warp.

[0053] The back body section of the top part may be formed from a single piece of fabric that covers almost the entire back of the wearer (not shown). In other words, the back center body section 11b and the back side body sections 11b', 11b' on either side may be formed from a single piece of fabric, without being divided. In this case, the entire back body section may be formed from a stretchable fabric. The front body sections 10a, 10a of the top part may be formed from a single piece of fabric that covers almost the entire chest and abdomen of the wearer (not shown). In other words, the front center body section 11a, the front inner body section 11a', and the front side body sections 11a" may be formed from a single piece of fabric, without being divided. In this case, the entire front body section may be formed from a low-stretch fabric, or may be formed from a stretchable fabric if necessary.

[0054] The jumpsuit-type upper and lower body garment can be manufactured using a stretchable fabric and a low-stretchable fabric by a known sewing method.

[0055] [2] Stretchable Fabric The stretchable fabric used in the garment of the present invention has stretchable weft yarns, and is usually sewn so that the weft yarns are oriented in the cross-sectional direction of the garment.

[0056] It is preferable that the stretchable woven fabric has a weft yarn that includes a stretchable composite yarn that includes an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber combined with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn that includes a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn.

[0057] (A) Weft The weft is primarily composed of the elastic composite yarn described below. The weft may contain at least one elastic yarn other than the elastic composite yarn described below, as long as it does not impair the effects of the present invention. However, it is preferable for the weft to consist solely of the elastic composite yarn. Examples of elastic composite yarns include covered yarns in which a yarn made of fibers of a different material is spirally wound around the periphery of an elastic fiber yarn; core-spun yarns obtained by spinning an elastic fiber yarn together with staple fiber rovings made of fibers of a different material and having a core-sheath structure with a core component made of the elastic fiber yarn and a sheath component made of staple fiber yarns formed from the staple fiber rovings; entangled composite yarns obtained by entangling filament yarns made of fibers of a different material around the periphery of an elastic fiber yarn using an air nozzle or the like; and plied / twisted composite yarns obtained by directly plying and twisting an elastic fiber yarn with a yarn made of fibers of a different material. Covered yarns and core-spun yarns are preferred as elastic composite yarns.

[0058] (A-1) Covered Yarn Covered yarns are formed by spirally winding a yarn (sheath yarn) made of a different fiber material around the outer periphery of an elastic fiber yarn (elastic core yarn). Fig. 7 is a schematic perspective view showing an example of a covered yarn. In this example, the elastic composite yarn 2 is a single covered yarn in which a sheath yarn 21 is spirally wound in a single layer around the outer periphery of an elastic core yarn 20. The elastic composite yarn 2 may also be a double covered yarn in which a sheath yarn 21 is spirally wound in a double layer around the outer periphery of an elastic core yarn 20.

[0059] (1) Elastic core yarn The elastic core yarn 20 has a large breaking elongation and has the property of returning to almost its original length when tension is removed after being stretched within a predetermined range. In order to obtain high elongation and stretch recovery of the elastic woven fabric, the fineness of the elastic core yarn 20 is preferably 20 dtex or more, more preferably 40 to 500 dtex, and most preferably 70 to 350 dtex.

[0060] Examples of fibers that may be used to form the elastic core yarn 20 include polyurethane fibers, polyolefin elastic fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, natural rubber fibers, synthetic rubber fibers, polyvinyl chloride fibers, polyvinylidene chloride fibers, etc. Polyurethane fibers are preferred in terms of their high extensibility and elongation recovery, and their versatility in the marketplace.

[0061] Examples of polyurethane fibers include polyester-based urethane fibers, polyether-based urethane fibers, and copolymer fibers of an ester-based urethane compound and an ether-based urethane compound. Polyurethane fibers are generally obtained by spinning elastic polyurethane obtained by the reaction of a polyol with an organic polyisocyanate. The polyol and organic polyisocyanate may be known polyols commonly used in the production of polyurethanes. Examples of polyols include diols such as polyether glycol, polyester glycol, and polymer diol, and examples of organic polyisocyanates include organic diisocyanates such as hexamethylene diisocyanate, diphenylmethane diisocyanate, and toluene diisocyanate.

[0062] As described above, polyurethane elastic yarn made of polyurethane fiber is preferable as the elastic core yarn 20, but the polyurethane elastic yarn may be a monofilament yarn or a multifilament yarn. As long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired, the elastic core yarn 20 may be made of a mixed fiber of polyurethane fiber and other elastic fiber.

[0063] (2) Sheath Yarn The sheath yarn 21 is preferably made of a water-insoluble fiber that does not dissolve in water, particularly hot water, and either a chemical fiber yarn or a natural fiber yarn may be used as long as it is made of such a fiber. Examples of fibers that make up the chemical fiber yarn include synthetic fibers such as polyamide (nylon) fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, acrylic-based fiber, polyolefin fiber, and water (hot water) insoluble polyvinyl alcohol fiber; semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate fiber and triacetate fiber; regenerated fibers such as rayon fiber and cupra fiber; and combinations of these.

[0064] Examples of polyamide (nylon) fibers include aliphatic polyamide fibers (polyamide 6, polyamide 66, etc.), alicyclic polyamide fibers, and aromatic polyamide fibers. Examples of polyester fibers include polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polybutylene terephthalate fibers, and polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers, with polyethylene terephthalate fiber yarn and / or polybutylene terephthalate fibers being preferred. Examples of polyolefin fibers include polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers. Examples of acrylic fibers include fibers made of a copolymer of acrylonitrile and vinyl acetate or methyl acrylate, with a polyacrylonitrile content of 85% or more. Examples of acrylic fibers include fibers made of a copolymer of acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride, with a polyacrylonitrile content of 35 to 85%. In terms of low heat shrinkage, texture, feel, strength, washing durability, compatibility with dyes, etc., synthetic fiber yarns are preferred as chemical fiber yarns, and among them, at least one selected from the group consisting of polyamide (nylon) fiber yarns, polyester fiber yarns, and polyolefin fiber yarns is preferred, with polyamide fiber yarns and / or polyester fiber yarns being more preferred.

[0065] Fibers constituting natural fiber yarns include plant fibers (cellulose polymer fibers) such as cotton and hemp, and animal fibers (protein polymer fibers) such as wool and silk. From the viewpoints of low heat shrinkage, texture, feel, strength, washing durability, compatibility with dyes, etc., plant fiber yarns are preferred as natural fiber yarns, and cotton yarns are more preferred. The cotton yarns may be carded or combed.

[0066] In the case of double-covered yarn, the first twisted yarn can be selected from the above-mentioned chemical fiber yarns and natural fiber yarns, but is preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of polyamide (nylon) fiber yarns, polyester fiber yarns, and polyolefin fiber yarns, more preferably polyamide fiber yarns and / or polyester fiber yarns, and most preferably polyester fiber yarns, while the second twisted yarn is preferably natural fiber yarns, more preferably vegetable fiber yarns, and most preferably cotton yarns. For example, if the first twisted yarn of the sheath yarn of a double-covered yarn is polyester fiber yarn, the strength of the seams (especially the seams in the crotch area) can be increased. However, this configuration is not intended to be limiting.

[0067] It is particularly preferable that the sheath yarn 21 has a small heat shrinkage rate. The reason for this is that after weaving an elastic woven fabric, the fabric is often heated in processing steps such as dyeing, and if a yarn with a large heat shrinkage rate is used, the yarn will shrink, causing the woven fabric to shrink. The heat shrinkage rate of the sheath yarn 21 is preferably within a free shrinkage rate of 30% under conditions of 180°C x 30 minutes.

[0068] In terms of texture, feel, strength, washing durability, etc., the fineness of the sheath yarn 21 is generally preferably 5 to 1,000 dtex. In the case of chemical fiber yarn, the fineness of the sheath yarn 21 is preferably 10 to 500 dtex, and in the case of natural fiber yarn, the fineness is preferably 70 to 1,000 dtex.

[0069] Depending on the type of fiber, either a staple yarn or a filament yarn can be used as the sheath yarn 21. In the case of a filament yarn, either a monofilament yarn or a multifilament yarn can be used.

[0070] The sheath yarn 21 is preferably a twisted yarn, but is not necessarily limited to a twisted yarn. When the sheath yarn 21 is a twisted yarn, the number of twists is not particularly limited, but a sheath yarn 21 having a twist coefficient K, expressed as K=T / √S, of 2 to 6, where T is the number of twists (unit: turns / 2.54 cm) and S is the cotton count (unit: count), is preferably used from the viewpoints of quality stability, productivity in manufacturing the composite yarn, ease of availability, etc. This twist coefficient K is preferably 3 to 6.

[0071] If necessary, the sheath yarn 21 may be dyed using indigo or other dyes by a known dyeing method such as rope dyeing.

[0072] (3) Winding Form of Sheath Yarn In order to obtain excellent extensibility and elastic recovery, the elastic composite yarn 2 made of covered yarn is preferably a single-covered yarn in which the sheath yarn 21 is wound spirally in a single layer around the elastic core yarn 20, but if necessary, it may also be a double-covered yarn in which the sheath yarn 21 is wound spirally in a double layer around the outer periphery of the elastic core yarn 20.

[0073] The rotation direction (twist direction) of the sheath yarn 21 of a single covered yarn can be set to either S twist or Z twist as appropriate. The rotation direction (twist direction) of the sheath yarn of a double covered yarn is preferably opposite between the first twist yarn and the second twist yarn. Specifically, if the first twist yarn is S twisted, the second twist yarn is Z twisted, and if the first twist yarn is Z twisted, the second twist yarn is S twisted.

[0074] The degree of coverage of the elastic core yarn 20 by the sheath yarn 21 is preferably such that the elastic core yarn 20 is entirely covered and the core yarn 20 is not exposed after weaving, but as long as excellent elasticity of the elastic composite yarn 2 is ensured, it does not matter if the core yarn 20 is slightly exposed after weaving.

[0075] The coil spring effect of the sheath yarn imparts high extensibility and stretch recovery to the elastic composite yarn 2, thereby achieving high extensibility and stretch recovery of the elastic woven fabric. In order to achieve this, the number of turns of the sheath yarn 21 per meter of the elastic core yarn in the single covered yarn is set to 1,000 to 2,500 T / m. If this number of turns is less than 1,000 T / m, the extensibility and stretch recovery of the elastic woven fabric will be insufficient. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2,500 T / m, the effect will saturate. The number of turns is preferably 1,300 to 2,400 T / m, and more preferably 1,500 to 2,200 T / m.

[0076] The coil spring effect of the sheath yarn imparts high extensibility and stretch recovery to the elastic composite yarn 2, thereby achieving high extensibility and stretch recovery in the elastic woven fabric. In order to achieve this, the number of turns of the sheath yarn 21 per meter of the elastic core yarn in the double covered yarn is 1,200 to 2,200 T / m for both the first twisted yarn and the second twisted yarn. If the number of turns of the first twisted yarn and / or the second twisted yarn is less than 1,200 T / m, the extensibility and stretch recovery of the elastic woven fabric will be insufficient. On the other hand, even if the number of turns of the first twisted yarn and / or the second twisted yarn exceeds 2,200 T / m, the effect will saturate. The number of turns of each of the first twisted yarn and the second twisted yarn is preferably 1,400 to 2,200 T / m, and more preferably 1,600 to 2,200 T / m.

[0077] (A-2) Core Spun Yarn Core spun yarn is obtained by spinning an elastic fiber yarn together with staple fiber rovings made of fibers of a different material, and has a core-sheath structure having a core component made of an elastic fiber yarn and a sheath component made of staple fiber yarn formed from the staple fiber roving. The elastic fiber yarn that is the core component of the core spun yarn can be the same as the elastic core yarn of the covered yarn. The staple fiber yarn that is the sheath component of the core spun yarn may be made of natural fibers and / or chemical fibers like the sheath yarn of the covered yarn, but natural fiber yarn is preferred. As the natural fiber yarn, plant fiber yarn such as cotton yarn or hemp yarn is preferred, and cotton yarn is more preferred. The cotton yarn may be carded or combed.

[0078] The twist factor K of the core spun yarn, expressed as K=T / √S, where T is the number of twists (unit: turns / 2.54 cm) and S is the cotton count (unit: count), is preferably 3 to 6, more preferably 4 to 5. If the twist factor K is less than 3, the core and sheath tend to become misaligned when the yarn stretches, and if it exceeds 6, the texture of the woven fabric becomes stiff.

[0079] (A-3) Elongation and Elastic Recovery of Elastic Composite Yarn In order to obtain high elongation and elongation recovery of the elastic woven fabric, the elastic composite yarn used has an elongation of 30% or more and an elastic recovery of 70% or more. This elongation is preferably 40% or more, and more preferably 50% or more. In order not to reduce the strength of the woven fabric, this elongation is preferably 120% or less, and more preferably 110% or less. This elastic recovery is preferably 80 to 100%, and more preferably 90 to 100%.

[0080] (B) Warp Threads The same warp threads as the sheath threads 21 can be used. However, in terms of texture, feel, strength, washing durability, etc., the warp thread fineness is preferably 100 to 2,000 dtex, and more preferably 300 to 900 dtex. In particular, spun yarns with a fineness greater than 50 British cotton count (118 dtex) and primarily composed of cellulose staple fibers such as cotton are preferred for the warp threads. In particular, when forming stretch chino cloth, two-ply combed yarns are used. If necessary, the warp threads may be dyed with indigo or other dyes by a known dyeing method such as rope dyeing.

[0081] (C) Structure of Stretch Fabric There are no restrictions on the weave of the stretch fabric, but a single weave is preferred. Using a single weave fabric can prevent the fabric from becoming thicker and the product price from rising. When used as stretch denim or stretch chino cloth, the weave is a twill weave. In particular, in the case of stretch denim, the weave is generally a 2 / 1 twill weave (three-way twill weave), a 3 / 1 twill weave (four-way twill weave), a 2 / 2 twill weave, etc. The twill weave may be any of right-hand twill (right twill), left-hand twill (left twill), and broken twill, but is not limited to these.

[0082] (D) Physical Properties of Stretchable Fabrics The constant load elongation (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric containing the above-mentioned stretchable composite yarn is very high, at 30% or more. This constant load elongation is preferably 40% or more, and more preferably 50% or more. The stretch recovery (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric is very high, at 85% or more. This stretch recovery is preferably 90% or more. Furthermore, due to its high elongation, this stretchable fabric has high breathability when stretched. Furthermore, it has excellent chemical resistance to chlorine-based chemicals and the like, and is therefore highly durable against bleaching and washing.

[0083] The composite yarn density after washing is 10 to 80 yarns / cm. This provides high stretchability and stretch recovery. The composite yarn density after washing is preferably 15 to 60 yarns / cm. When the weft yarn is made of only the elastic composite yarn 2, the composite yarn density is equal to the weft yarn density.

[0084] In order to provide the garment of the present invention with stable and sufficient stretchability and durability, the total fineness of the elastic composite yarn 2 per cm width in the warp direction is preferably 3,000 dtex / cm or more, more preferably 5,000 dtex / cm or more, and most preferably 7,000 dtex / cm or more. On the other hand, if it exceeds 20,000 dtex / cm, the effect will saturate. When the weft yarn is made only of the elastic composite yarn 2, the total fineness of the composite yarn is equal to the total fineness of the weft yarn.

[0085] When weaving is performed using a gripper-type loom, described below, equipped with a means for blowing air onto the elastic composite yarn in a direction substantially opposite to the weaving direction, the elastic composite yarn is inserted while maintaining an elongation of 30% or more, but the stretch of the elastic composite yarn in the elastic woven fabric is suppressed. Specifically, the elongation ratio of the elastic composite yarn in the elastic woven fabric during weaving is maintained at 1.30 times or less, based on the elastic composite yarn before weaving. This results in high elongation and elongation recovery as well as low washing shrinkage. This elongation ratio is preferably 1.20 times or less, more preferably 1.10 times or less, even more preferably 1.05 times or less, and most preferably 1.03 times or less.

[0086] The stretchable woven fabric in which the stretchability of the stretchable composite yarn is inhibited as described above has a very small washing shrinkage in the weft direction of 5% or less, preferably 3% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and most preferably 1.5% or less.

[0087] As described above, the warp density after laundering of stretch woven fabrics with low washing shrinkage is relatively low at 5 to 80 threads / cm. In a preferred example, the warp density after laundering is 15 to 60 threads / cm, and in a more preferred example, it is 20 to 50 threads / cm.

[0088] The bending resistance (ASTM-D-4032-94) of the stretchable fabric in the weft direction is preferably 25N or less, more preferably 22N or less.

[0089] The stretchable woven fabric in which the stretch composite yarn is inhibited from stretching as described above has not only high stretchability and stretch recovery but also low washing shrinkage, resulting in excellent productivity (yield), sewing workability, and product design. This stretchable woven fabric also has high breathability when stretched due to its high stretchability. Furthermore, it has excellent chemical resistance to chlorine-based chemicals and the like, resulting in high durability against bleaching and washing.

[0090] [3] Low-stretch woven fabrics The weft and warp yarns of low-stretch woven fabrics can be similar to the sheath yarn 21 described above. However, in terms of texture, feel, strength, washing durability, and the like, the fineness of the weft and warp yarns is preferably 100 to 2,000 dtex, and more preferably 300 to 900 dtex. In particular, spun yarns with a fineness greater than 50 British cotton count (118 dtex) and primarily composed of cellulose staple fibers such as cotton are preferred for the weft and warp yarns. In particular, when forming chino cloth, two-ply combed yarns are used. If necessary, the warp yarns may be dyed with indigo or other dyes by a known dyeing method such as rope dyeing.

[0091] Although there are no limitations on the weave of the low-elasticity fabric, a single weave is preferred. Using a single weave fabric can prevent the fabric from becoming thicker and the product price from rising. When used as denim or chino cloth, the weave is a twill weave. In particular, in the case of denim, the weave is generally a 2 / 1 twill weave (three-way twill weave), a 3 / 1 twill weave (four-way twill weave), a 2 / 2 twill weave, etc. The twill weave may be any of right-hand twill (right twill), left-hand twill (left twill), and broken twill, but is not limited to these.

[0092] The constant load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of the low stretch fabric is 10% or less, preferably 8% or less.

[0093] The weft density of the low-elasticity woven fabric after washing is preferably 10 to 80 threads / cm, more preferably 12 to 70 threads / cm.

[0094] The warp density of the low-elasticity woven fabric after washing is preferably 5 to 80 threads / cm, more preferably 15 to 60 threads / cm, and most preferably 20 to 50 threads / cm.

[0095] In order to provide the garment of the present invention with stable and sufficient durability, the total fineness of the weft yarns per cm width in the warp direction is preferably 3,000 dtex / cm or more, more preferably 5,000 dtex / cm or more, and most preferably 7,000 dtex / cm or more. On the other hand, if it exceeds 20,000 dtex / cm, the effect will saturate.

[0096] Low stretch woven fabrics have a very low shrinkage in the weft direction after washing of 5% or less, preferably 3% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and most preferably 1.5% or less.

[0097] In order to minimize the difference in texture, feel, and appearance between the stretchable fabric and the low stretchable fabric, the bending resistance (ASTM-D-4032-94) in the weft direction of the low stretchable fabric is preferably 40 N or less, more preferably 35 N or less, even more preferably 30 N or less, and most preferably 25 N or less.

[0098] In the case of pants-type lower body garments, by using a low-stretch fabric for the back body, wrinkles around the buttocks do not sag, so the beauty of the garment when worn is not impaired and there is no lack of strength around the buttocks.

[0099] [4] Differences in physical properties between stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics In order to reduce the differences in texture, feel, and appearance between stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics and to achieve good design, the stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics should satisfy the following differences in physical properties.

[0100] (i) The difference (absolute value) between the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric and the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the low stretchable fabric is 3% or less, preferably 2% or less, and more preferably 1% or less. (ii) The difference (absolute value) between the bending resistance (N) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric (ASTM-D-4032-94) and the bending resistance (N) in the weft direction of the low stretchable fabric (ASTM-D-4032-94) is preferably 15N or less, more preferably 10N or less, and even more preferably 5N or less. (iii) The difference (absolute value) between the warp density (threads / cm) of the stretchable fabric and the warp density (threads / cm) of the low stretchable fabric is preferably 2 threads / cm or less, and more preferably 1 thread / cm or less. (iv) The difference (absolute value) between the total fineness (dtex / cm) of the elastic composite yarns per 1 cm width in the warp direction in the elastic woven fabric and the total fineness (dtex / cm) of the weft yarns per 1 cm width in the warp direction in the low elastic woven fabric is preferably 1,700 dtex / cm or less, and more preferably 900 dtex / cm or less.

[0101] [5] Twist direction of yarns in stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics In order to minimize the difference in appearance between stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics, it is preferable that the twist direction of the exposed surface of the weft yarns in the stretchable and low-stretchable fabrics be the same.

[0102] Specifically, if the weft yarn of the elastic woven fabric is a single covered yarn and the twist direction of the sheath yarn is Z twist, the weft yarn of the low elastic woven fabric is also Z twist, and if the weft yarn of the elastic woven fabric is a single covered yarn and the twist direction of the sheath yarn is S twist, the weft yarn of the low elastic woven fabric is also S twist.

[0103] If the weft yarn of the stretchable woven fabric is a double-covered yarn and the twist direction of the top-twisted sheath yarn is Z-twist, the weft yarn of the low-stretchable woven fabric will also be Z-twist, and if the weft yarn of the stretchable woven fabric is a double-covered yarn and the twist direction of the top-twisted sheath yarn is S-twist, the weft yarn of the low-stretchable woven fabric will also be S-twist. As mentioned above, it is preferable that the rotation direction (twist direction) of the sheath yarn of the double-covered yarn be opposite to that of the top-twisted yarn.

[0104] It is also preferable that the warp threads of the stretchable fabric and the low stretchable fabric are made of the same material and have the same fineness, and that the warp threads are twisted in the same direction.

[0105] [6] Methods for Manufacturing Stretchable Fabrics (A) Manufacturing Stretchable Composite Yarn (A-1) Manufacturing Covered Yarn Although not limited thereto, the stretchable composite yarn 2 made of a covered yarn is preferably manufactured by the hollow spindle method. FIG. 8 is a front view showing a schematic example of an apparatus for manufacturing a stretchable composite yarn 2, which is a single-covered yarn, by the hollow spindle method. The stretchable yarn drawn from a bobbin 20' around which a stretchable yarn for the core yarn 20 is wound is passed through a feed roller 20a and a yarn feed roller 21a and introduced to a hollow spindle 2a, forming the core yarn 20. Between the feed roller 20a and the yarn feed roller 21a, the stretchable yarn is preferably drafted at a feed ratio of 0.8 to 1.3. This feed ratio is more preferably 0.9 to 1.2, and even more preferably approximately 1.

[0106] The feed ratio is expressed as the ratio (V2 / V1) of the yarn let-off speed (V1) to the take-up speed (V2). A feed ratio of 1 means that the yarn is wound at the same speed as the let-off speed, and a feed ratio of 1.3 means that the ratio (V2 / V1) is 1.3. When the feed ratio is less than 1, the let-off speed is greater than the take-up speed, and the yarn is let out in a so-called overfeed state, resulting in slack in the yarn between the let-off roller and the take-up roller. Supplying yarn by overfeeding is a technique often adopted when taking into account twist shrinkage in the twisting process where twist is applied to the yarn, or in false twisting. However, an overfeed of 5% or less is usually used.

[0107] In the present application, the composite yarn 2 may be produced at a very low feed ratio of 0.8. If the elastic yarn is highly elastic, such as a polyurethane elastic yarn, and if the polyurethane elastic yarn is wound in a stretched state in the form in which it is shipped, such as a cheese winding, the yarn will attempt to return to its original length even with a large overfeed of 0.8, so the yarn will not slacken and can be processed as normal. If a non-elastic yarn is processed under conditions such as a feed ratio of 0.8, the yarn will slacken and satisfactory processing will not be possible.

[0108] In the twisting and false twisting industries, when yarn is supplied by overfeeding, the feed ratio is sometimes displayed with a minus sign (-) before the ratio to indicate the degree of overfeed. In this case, it should be noted that the (-) does not represent a negative numerical value, but simply indicates that the feed ratio is less than 1. For example, when displayed as -0.8 times, this does not represent a negative numerical value, but rather means that the feed ratio is 0.8 times.

[0109] A covering bobbin 22a wound with a yarn for the sheath yarn 21 is inserted into the hollow spindle 2a. The elastic core yarn 20 introduced into the hollow spindle 2a is covered with the sheath yarn 21 a predetermined number of times between the balloon guide 23a and the hollow spindle 2a, and then passes through a delivery roller 24a and a take-up roller 25a and is wound onto the composite yarn take-up bobbin 2'.

[0110] The composite yarn 2 thus produced has a structure in which the elastic core yarn 20 is covered on its outer periphery with the sheath yarn 21, which is then bundled together to form an integrated structure. Both the elastic core yarn 20 and the sheath yarn 21 expand and contract in response to the expansion and contraction of the woven fabric, resulting in a woven fabric with excellent elasticity. Furthermore, the elastic woven fabric does not shrink even after weaving.

[0111] When producing the stretchable composite yarn 2, which is a double-covered yarn, by the hollow spindle method, an apparatus having another hollow spindle provided between the balloon guide 23a and the delivery roller 24a shown in Figure 8 can be used, and the yarn can be covered a predetermined number of times with the sheath yarn for the final twist.

[0112] The composite yarn 2 used is important to avoid shrinkage of the woven fabric. It is preferable that the elastic core yarn 20 be as close to its original length as possible. Therefore, the feed ratio of the elastic yarn is set to 0.8 to 1.3. At a feed ratio of 0.8, it may seem as if the elastic yarn is being fed in a slack state. However, as described above, the elastic yarn is not slackened; rather, it is attempting to return to its original length from a stretched state, a unique operation unique to elastic yarns. Polyurethane elastic yarn, a typical example of commercially available elastic yarn, is usually supplied in a cheese-wrapped form. Due to the tension applied during cheese-wrapping, the polyurethane elastic yarn is wound in a slightly stretched state. Therefore, overfeeding allows the yarn to return to its length before cheese-wrapping. This degree is estimated to be 0.8. Therefore, a feed ratio of 1 represents the exact length of the polyurethane elastic yarn wound around the cheese.

[0113] If the feed ratio exceeds 1.3 times, the elastic yarn is fed in a stretched state, and the force of contraction of the elastic yarn increases after weaving, causing the width of the woven fabric to shrink, which is undesirable. Since the sheath yarn 21 helically covers the outer periphery of the core yarn 20 made of elastic yarn, the length of the sheath yarn is longer than the length of the elastic yarn and has a sufficient length required to follow the changes in the elasticity of the woven fabric.

[0114] The number of turns of the sheath yarn 21 per meter of the elastic core yarn may be as described above. If a colored yarn is desired, the sheath yarn 21 may be dyed and wrapped around the core yarn 20 to form the composite yarn 2.

[0115] (A-2) Production of Core Spun Yarn The method for producing an elastic composite yarn made of core spun yarn is not particularly limited, and known methods can be used. Generally, in a spinning machine, elastic fiber yarn is supplied from the front roller of the spinning machine while applying a predetermined tension to the elastic fiber yarn, and the elastic fiber yarn is spun together with short fiber roving to obtain the core spun yarn. For example, methods for producing core spun yarn described in JP 2000-45141 A, JP 2008-297646 A, etc. can be used.

[0116] (B) Weaving Method The weaving method for the stretchable fabric is not particularly limited, and any known method can be used. For example, the stretchable fabric can be woven using a known gripper-type loom, air-jet loom, or the like, by appropriately adjusting the operating speed, tension, and the like.

[0117] Preferably, the stretchable woven fabric is woven using a gripper-type loom (hereinafter simply referred to as a "gripper loom") equipped with a means for blowing air onto the stretchable composite yarn in a direction substantially opposite to the weaving direction of the yarn, as follows. Fig. 9 is a schematic perspective view showing an example of a gripper loom equipped with an air blowing means, and Fig. 10 is a process explanatory diagram showing a model of weaving steps A to G using this loom. The weft yarn (stretchable composite yarn) 2 drawn out from the yarn feeding cheese 2" passes through the weft brake 3 and weft tensioner 4, passes through the air blower tube 50, is led to the projectile feeder 6 provided in the picking unit 70, and is handed over to the projectile 7 (steps A to B). The projectile 7 gripping the weft yarn 2 is repelled by the torsion bar 74, and flies through the warp shed in the weft direction along a number of guide cheeses 72, and is then conveyed to the receiving unit 7. The projectile 7 is then gripped and stopped by a stop brake 8 provided on the weft feeder 71, and pushed back to its home position by the projectile returner 9 (steps C to D). The weft yarn 2 is gripped at both ends of the fabric 22 by a pair of weft end grippers 75, 75, and cut by scissors 76 from the projectile feeder 6 (steps E to F). Next, the projectile 7 is pushed out onto the conveyor 73, and is returned by the conveyor 73 to the picking unit 70 side, passing outside the warp shed.

[0118] As shown in FIG. 11 , the loom is provided with an air blower tube 50 between the weft tensioner 4 and the projectile feeder 6, and an air nozzle serving as an air blowing means 5 is inserted into the air blower tube 50. The nozzle opening 5 a of the air nozzle 5 is oriented within the tube 50 in a direction substantially opposite to the weft weaving direction of the weft yarn 2, allowing air to be blown onto the weft yarn 2. The air nozzle 5 is connected to an air compressor 53, and an electromagnetic valve 51 disposed between the two controls the air flow from the nozzle opening 5 a to be switched on and off. The electromagnetic valve 51 is switched on and off by an operating proximity switch 52, which is located in front of the electromagnetic valve 51 and is turned on by a shutoff plate 54 connected to the loom's main shaft 55 within a predetermined rotational angle range of the loom's main shaft 55. During steps C to G shown in FIG. 10 , air is continuously blown onto the weft yarn 2 in a direction substantially opposite to the weft weaving direction.

[0119] Each of steps A to G shown in Figure 10 will be described in more detail. In step A, the projectile 7 returned by the conveyor 73 is set at the picking position. In step B, the weft yarn 2 is handed over to the projectile 7 by the projectile feeder 6, which is stopped with its mouth open. In step C, immediately before or continuously from the start of the projectile 7's flight, the air nozzle 5 blows air onto the weft yarn 2 in the air blower tube 50 in a direction substantially opposite to the driving direction of the weft yarn 2, and while the projectile 7 is flying, the weft brake 3 and weft tensioner 4 work to minimize the load on the weft yarn 2 during picking. In process D, while air is continuously blown onto the weft yarn 2, the projectile 7 is stopped by being gripped by the stop brake 8 in the receiving unit 71 and is pushed back to its home position by the projectile returner 9. During this time, the weft yarn 2 is kept lightly taut by the weft tensioner 4, and the projectile feeder 6 is brought close to the fabric 22. In order to prevent the weft yarn 2 from invading the warp yarns due to inertia after the projectile 7 arrives at the receiving unit 71, the tension applied to the weft yarn 2 by the weft brake 3 and weft tensioner 4 is maximized just before the projectile 7 is stopped by the stop brake 8. At this time, in this method, air is blown onto the weft yarn 2 in a direction substantially opposite to the weft beating direction of the weft yarn 2, so that the maximum tension applied to the weft yarn 2 by the weft brake 3 and weft tensioner 4 can be reduced. This makes it possible to suppress stretching of the weft yarn (elastic composite yarn) 2 during the weaving process.

[0120] In step E, while air is blown onto the weft yarn 2, the projectile feeder 6 grips the weft yarn 2, and at the same time, a pair of weft end grippers 75, 75 holds the weft yarn 2 at both ends of the cloth 22. In step F, while air is blown onto the weft yarn 2, the weft yarn 2 is cut by scissors 76 on the picking unit side of the cloth 12 and separated from the projectile 7 on the receiving unit side of the cloth 12, and the projectile 7 is pushed onto the conveyor 73 and returned to the picking unit 70 side. After beating, in step G, while air is blown onto the weft yarn 2, the projectile feeder 6 retreats, and any slack in the weft yarn 2 caused by this is taken up by the weft tensioner 4 and suppressed by the blown air. Next, the process returns to step A, but at this time the air blowing onto the weft yarn 2 is stopped.

[0121] In conventional gripper looms, the air blowing means 5 is not provided, and therefore, in order to prevent the weft yarn 2 from penetrating the warp yarns due to inertia after the projectile 7 arrives at the receiving unit 71, it is necessary to apply the weft brake 3 suddenly and strongly while the projectile 7 is flying, which can apply a large tension to the weft yarn 2 and result in a large stretch of the weft yarn (elastic composite yarn) 2. If the weft yarn (elastic composite yarn) 2 is stretched to a large extent during the weaving process, the woven fabric will have a high shrinkage rate when it is removed from the loom.

[0122] In this gripper loom, an air blowing means 5 is provided near the weft brake 3, and air is blown onto the weft yarn 2 in a direction substantially opposite to the driving direction of the weft yarn 2 while the projectile 7 is flying, so even if the maximum tension applied to the weft yarn 2 by the weft brake 3 and weft tensioner 4, especially the maximum braking force applied by the weft brake 3, is reduced just before the projectile 7 is stopped by the stop brake 8, it is possible to prevent the weft yarn 2 from invading the warp yarns due to inertia after the projectile 7 arrives at the receiving unit 71, and no slack in the weft yarn 2 occurs in the warp yarns. Because the braking force applied by the weft brake 3 can be reduced, the tension applied to the weft yarn 2 is reduced, and stretching of the weft yarn (elastic composite yarn) 2 during the weaving process can be suppressed.

[0123] As described above, the significance of blowing air onto the weft yarn 2 in a direction substantially opposite to the driving direction thereof lies in reducing the tension applied by the weft tensioner 4 and weft brake 3 during picking in step C, and in reducing the maximum tension applied to the weft yarn 2 by the weft brake 3 and weft tensioner 4, particularly the maximum brake force applied by the weft brake 3, immediately before the projectile 7 is stopped by the stop brake 8 in steps C to D. Furthermore, the significance of blowing air in this manner lies in preventing slack in the weft yarn 2 in the warp yarns in step D when the projectile 7 is pushed back by the projectile returner 9 and in step E when the pair of weft end grippers 75, 75 hold the weft yarn 2 at both ends of the fabric 22, and further in being able to suppress slack in the weft yarn 2 in step F when the weft yarn 2 is cut and in step G when the projectile feeder 6 retracts.

[0124] An air nozzle is preferred as the air blowing means 5. However, the air blowing means is not limited to the air nozzle 5, and an air blower or the like may be used as long as it can apply sufficient air pressure to the weft yarn 2. The location of the air blowing means 5 is preferably between the weft tensioner 4 and the projectile feeder 6 as shown in the figure, but is not limited to this, and the air blowing means 5 may be located near the weft brake 3.

[0125] In this method, it is preferable to adjust the discharge pressure of the compressed air flow blown onto the elastic composite yarn 2 by the air blowing means 5 and the tension applied to the elastic composite yarn 2 by the weft brake 3 and the weft tensioner 4 in steps C and D so that the elongation ratio of the elastic composite yarn 2 in the elastic fabric during weaving is maintained at 1.30 times or less, preferably 1.20 times or less, more preferably 1.10 times or less, even more preferably 1.05 times or less, and most preferably 1.03 times or less, based on the elastic composite yarn before weaving. The "tension" referred to here specifically refers to the tension applied to the weft yarn 1 by the weft tensioner 4 and the weft brake 3 during picking in step C, and the maximum tension applied to the weft yarn 2 by the weft brake 3 and the weft tensioner 4, particularly the maximum tension applied by the weft brake 3, just before the projectile 7 is stopped by the stop brake 8 in steps C to D.

[0126] The discharge pressure of the compressed air stream blown by the air blowing means 5, i.e., the discharge pressure (gauge pressure) of the compressed air stream applied to the weft yarn 2 in the direction opposite to the weft driving direction, is typically 200 kPa or more. This discharge pressure is preferably 300 kPa or more, and more preferably 350 kPa or more, in order to sufficiently reduce the tension, particularly the maximum tension, applied by the weft tensioner 4 and weft brake 3 and sufficiently suppress the stretching of the stretchable composite yarn 2 during the weaving process. The upper limit of this discharge pressure is preferably 600 kPa. If it exceeds 600 kPa, the effect will saturate. The shortest distance from the center of the nozzle opening 5a of the air nozzle 5 to the weft yarn 2 (the radial distance in the cross section of the tube 50) is preferably 2 cm or less. The flying speed of the projectile 7 may be a general speed, for example, 40 to 47 m / s.

[0127] The inner diameter of the nozzle opening 5a of the air nozzle 5 is preferably 3 mm or more, and more preferably 3 to 5 mm, so that the compressed air flow covers the entire outer periphery of the weft yarn 2. As shown in Fig. 12, the nozzle opening 5a may have an expanded end so that the compressed air flow spreads to cover the entire outer periphery of the weft yarn 2. Furthermore, as shown in Figs. 13(a) and 13(b), the tip of the nozzle 5 may be branched into multiple nozzle openings 5a, and multiple nozzle openings 5a may be arranged around the outer periphery of the weft yarn 2.

[0128] Although the air blower tube 50 is not essential, it is preferable to provide the air blower tube 50 at the position where the air nozzle 5 is disposed, as in the illustrated example, and to insert the tip of the air nozzle 5 into the air blower tube 50. By circulating the compressed air flow inside the air blower tube 50, it is possible to prevent the compressed air flow from being unnecessarily diffused and to efficiently circulate the compressed air flow along the entire outer periphery of the weft yarn 2, thereby efficiently applying the pressure of the compressed air flow to the weft yarn 2.

[0129] The air blower tube 50 is preferably cylindrical. To fully obtain the effects of the air blower tube 50 as described above, the cylindrical air blower tube 50 has an inner diameter of preferably 5 cm or less, more preferably 3 cm or less, at least at the insertion portion of the nozzle opening 5 a, and a length of preferably 25 cm or more.

[0130] 14, the flow path may be narrowed in the central portion 50a of the cylindrical air blower tube 50. With such a shape, the dynamic pressure of the compressed air flowing through the central portion 50a can be further increased, and the pressure of the compressed air flow can be applied to the weft yarn 2 more efficiently.

[0131] 15 is a flowchart showing an example of the relationship between the rotation angle (degrees) of the loom's main shaft (loom shaft) 55, the movement of the slay sword and belt each driven by the main shaft 55, and the weft insertion operation. In this example, air is blown in the direction opposite to the weft insertion direction of the weft 2 while the rotation angle of the main shaft 55 is in the range of 110 to 300 degrees from when the weft 2 is driven until it arrives at the receiving side (process C), while the range is 300 to 352 degrees when the projectile 7 is pushed back to its home position by the projectile returner 9 (process D), at 352 degrees when the weft end grippers 75, 75 start to hold the weft 2 at both ends of the fabric 22 (process E), at 360 degrees, i.e., 0 degree, when the weft 2 is cut by the scissors 76 (process F), and while the rotation angle of the main shaft 55 is in the range of 0 to 50 degrees when the projectile feeder 6 retreats (process G). In other words, when the rotation angle of the main shaft 55 is in the range from 110 degrees to 360 degrees (0 degrees) to 50 degrees, the operating proximity switch 52 is turned on, the solenoid valve 51 is activated, and air from the compressor 53 is sprayed from the nozzle port 5a.

[0132] The stretchable fabric obtained by the above-described steps can be subjected to known finishing processes, such as refining (de-sizing, removal of impurities, etc.), bleaching, dyeing, washing, heat setting, singeing, skew prevention, sanforized processing, mercerization, etc., as needed. Typically, the temperature for the refining process of stretchable fabrics is 70 to 100°C.

[0133] By weaving using a gripper loom equipped with the air blowing means described above, the elongation ratio of the stretchable composite yarn 2 of the stretchable fabric during weaving can be set to 1.30 times or less, based on the stretchable composite yarn before weaving. Specifically, because the gripper loom is equipped with the air blowing means described above, no special temperature adjustment device, such as a device for cooling the stretchable composite yarn 2, is required, and the elongation ratio of the stretchable composite yarn 2 during weaving at room temperature can be suppressed. In other words, because there is no need to adjust the temperature of the stretchable composite yarn 2, the elongation ratio of the stretchable composite yarn 2 can be suppressed during weaving of the stretchable fabric while maintaining the original elongation ratio of the stretchable composite yarn of 30% or more. The above elongation ratio is preferably 1.20 times or less, more preferably 1.10 times or less, even more preferably 1.05 times or less, and most preferably 1.03 times or less.

[0134] [7] Manufacturing method of low stretch woven fabrics There are no particular limitations on the weaving method of low stretch woven fabrics, and known methods can be used. For example, low stretch woven fabrics can be woven using known gripper-type looms, air-jet looms, etc., by appropriately adjusting the operating speed, tension, etc.

[0135] Low stretch woven fabrics can also be subjected to known finishing processes such as refining (de-sizing, removal of impurities, etc.), bleaching, dyeing, washing, heat setting, singeing (gas singeing, etc.), twist prevention (skew processing, etc.), shrink-proofing (sanforized processing, etc.), and mercerization, as necessary. In particular, by approximating, and preferably equalizing, the refining temperature of the low stretch woven fabric to that of the stretch woven fabric, the difference in stiffness in the weft direction between the two can be reduced. The refining temperature of the low stretch woven fabric is preferably set to ±5°C of the refining temperature of the stretch woven fabric. However, this is not intended to limit the refining temperature of the low stretch woven fabric to that of the stretch woven fabric.

[0136] The present invention will be described in more detail by the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[0137] (1) Preparation of Stretchable Composite Yarn Using the apparatus shown in Figure 8, a single-covered stretchable composite yarn was prepared by the hollow spindle method. A bobbin wound with a polyurethane elastic yarn "Leica" (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) having a fineness of 311 dtex (indicated tex number) as the core yarn was set in a bobbin stand for the core yarn on the covering machine stand, and the feed ratio was set to 1. This core yarn was introduced at a yarn speed of 3.8 m / min into a hollow spindle into which a bobbin wound with a cotton spun yarn having a fineness of 294 dtex as the sheath yarn (manufactured by Kaihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.) was inserted. The core yarn was spirally covered with the sheath yarn so as to have a Z-twist and a twist rate of 2,000 T / m per 1 m of the core yarn, and then wound up to obtain a composite yarn.

[0138] (2) Preparation of Stretchable Fabric Using the gripper loom shown in Figure 9, the stretchable composite yarn prepared in (1) above was used as the weft yarn, and indigo-dyed 843 dtex (indicated tex count) Z-twist cotton spun yarn (manufactured by Kaihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.) was used as the warp yarn to prepare a stretchable fabric consisting of a right-hand twill 3 / 1 twill stretch denim. From just before the projectile began to fly through the projectile, air was blown onto the weft yarn from an air nozzle in the air blower tube at a discharge pressure of 400 kPa (gauge pressure) in the direction substantially opposite to the weft yarn beading direction. Air blowing continued during steps C to G shown in Figure 10. The obtained raw fabric was removed from the gripper loom, singed (gas singed), immersed in hot water at 90°C for refining (de-sizing), and then subjected to a twist prevention treatment (skew treatment) and a shrinkage prevention treatment (sanforized treatment) to obtain stretch denim.

[0139] (3) Production of low-elasticity woven fabric A low-elasticity woven fabric was produced from low-elasticity denim with a right-hand twill 3 / 1 twill weave by weaving Z-twisted cotton spun yarn (manufactured by Kaihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 843 dtex (indicated tex number) as the weft and warp. The resulting raw fabric was removed from the loom, singed (gas singed), immersed in warm water at 50°C for refining (de-sizing), and then subjected to a twist prevention process (skew process) and a shrinkage prevention process (sanforized process).

[0140] (4) Production of Jeans The stretch denim produced in (2) above was cut to form the front body (the cross-hatched portion shown in Fig. 1(a) and Fig. 2), and the low-elasticity denim produced in (3) above was cut to form the back body (the portion shown by symbols 1b, 1b in Fig. 1(b) and Fig. 2) and other components (excluding the pocket fabrics 1d, 1d (see Fig. 2)), and these were sewn together to produce the jeans shown in Fig. 1.

[0141] (1) Preparation of low-elasticity woven fabric Low-elasticity denim was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that hot water at 90°C was used during the scouring treatment (de-sizing).

[0142] (2) Production of Jeans Jeans having a front body made of stretch denim and a back body made of low-elasticity denim were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the low-elasticity denim produced in (1) above was used.

[0143] (1) Preparation of Elastic Composite Yarn A double-covered elastic composite yarn was prepared by the hollow spindle method using a machine equipped with two hollow spindles. A bobbin wound with a polyurethane elastic yarn "Leica" (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) having a fineness of 311 dtex (indicated tex number) as the core yarn was set on a bobbin stand for the core yarn on the covering machine stand, and the feed ratio was set to 1. This core yarn was introduced at a yarn speed of 3.8 m / min into a hollow spindle into which a bobbin having a polyethylene terephthalate yarn (manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) with a fineness of 167 dtex (indicated tex number) wound thereon, which served as the first-stage sheath yarn (first twist yarn), was inserted, and the core yarn was spirally covered with the sheath yarn so as to have an S twist and a twist of 2,000 T / m per meter of the core yarn. The core yarn was then introduced into a hollow spindle into which a bobbin having a cotton spun yarn (manufactured by Kaihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 147 dtex, which served as the second-stage sheath yarn (first twist yarn), was inserted, and the core yarn was spirally covered with the sheath yarn so as to have a Z twist and a twist of 2,000 T / m per meter of the yarn, and the core yarn was then wound up, to obtain a composite yarn.

[0144] (2) Preparation of stretchable fabric A stretchable fabric (stretch denim) was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the double-covered composite yarn prepared in (1) above was used as the weft.

[0145] (3) Production of Jeans Jeans were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the stretch denim produced in (2) above and the same low-elasticity denim as in Example 2 were used, except that the front body was made of stretch denim and the back body was made of low-elasticity denim.

[0146] Comparative Example 1 Jeans were produced in which the front and back bodies were made of stretch denim in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the front and back bodies and other components (except for the lining fabrics 1d, 1d (see Figure 2)) were formed using the same stretch denim as in Example 1 and then sewn together.

[0147] Comparative Example 2 (1) Production of Stretchable Woven Fabric An elastic composite yarn consisting of a core spun yarn (twist coefficient K: 4.3) with a polyurethane elastic yarn "ROICA" (registered trademark, manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) having a fineness of 78 dtex (indicated tex) as the core component and a cotton spun yarn having a fineness of 738 dtex (indicated tex) as the sheath component was used as the weft yarn, and indigo-dyed cotton spun yarn having a fineness of 843 dtex (indicated tex) (manufactured by Kaihara Sangyo Co., Ltd.) was used as the warp yarn. An elastic woven fabric (stretch denim) was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that air was not blown onto the elastic core yarn using an air nozzle while the projectile was flying during weaving, and that the raw woven fabric removed from the loom was subjected to singeing, scouring, twist prevention, and shrink prevention processing, followed by heat setting (treatment at a conveying speed of 35 m / min and a temperature of 171°C).

[0148] (2) Production of Jeans Jeans having a front body made of stretch denim and a back body made of low-elasticity denim were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the stretch denim produced in (1) above was used.

[0149] Comparative Example 3 (1) Preparation of Low-Stretch Woven Fabric A low-stretch woven fabric made of low-stretch denim was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that warm water at 40°C was used during the scouring treatment (de-sizing).

[0150] (2) Production of Jeans Jeans having a front body made of stretch denim and a back body made of low-elasticity denim were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the low-elasticity denim produced in (1) above was used.

[0151] Comparative Example 4 Jeans were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the warp density of the stretchable woven fabric was 29 threads / cm.

[0152] Comparative Example 5 Jeans were produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the total fineness of the weft yarns per 1 cm width in the warp direction in the low-elastic woven fabric was 15,595 dtex / cm.

[0153] The physical properties of the fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were measured by the following methods. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0154] (1) Elongation and elastic recovery of elastic composite yarns A sample adjusted to a stable state of dimensional change was subjected to a 1.764 × 10 per unit fineness test. －３ An initial load of cN / dtex (2 mg / d) was applied, and the sample length L ０ The sample was set in a tensile tester at a tension of 100 mm, and elongated at a tension speed of 50 mm / min. The load was 8.82 × 10 per unit fineness of the sample. －２ The elongation was stopped when the elongation L １ After leaving it as it is for 1 minute, it is returned to its original length at the same speed, left for 3 minutes, and then stretched again at the same speed. The elongation L at the point where the stress becomes the same as the initial load is measured. ２ The values ​​were read, and the elongation rate (%) and elastic recovery rate (%) were calculated using the following formula: Elongation rate (%) = L １ / L ０ × 100 Elastic recovery rate (%) = [(L １ -L ２ ) / L １ ]×100 Measurement was carried out 10 times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

[0155] (2) Fineness of the stretchable composite yarn It was measured in accordance with the method described in 8.3.1 (correct fineness) of Method B (simplified method) of JIS-L-1013 (Testing methods for chemical fiber filament yarns). The initial load applied was the initial load determined based on 5.1 of JIS-L-1013 (a load that straightens the yarn without stretching). In determining the initial load, the apparent fineness (indicated tex number) of the stretchable composite yarn was calculated from the indicated tex numbers of the core yarn and sheath yarn before the composite yarn was produced and the consumed masses of the core yarn and sheath yarn during the composite yarn production, assuming that the feed ratio of the core yarn during the composite yarn production was 1.

[0156] (3) Elongation ratio of elastic composite yarn in elastic woven fabric during weaving The mass of elastic composite yarn consumed when a woven fabric of 5 m in length was produced from the start of weaving (mass (g) of weft yarn 1 drawn out from yarn feeder cheese 2" in Figure 9) was measured, and the resulting consumed mass was converted from the fineness (dtex) of the elastic composite yarn to the length La (meters) of the elastic composite yarn consumed when a woven fabric of the same length was produced. The number of weft insertions N (times) when a woven fabric of the same length was produced was also measured. The weft running length of the loom [weaving width (reed passing width) + waste selvedge width (meters)] was taken as Lb, and the elongation ratio Esf (times) of the elastic composite yarn in the elastic woven fabric during weaving was calculated according to the following formula: Esf (times) = (Lb x N) / La Here, the "waste selvage" is provided on both sides of the weaving width portion (reed-threading width portion), and generally, each time a weft thread is inserted into a warp shed, the waste selvage portion is grasped to close the shed and the weft thread is beaten. Normally, a weft thread is composed of a basic unit consisting of the weaving width portion (reed-threading width portion) and the waste selvage provided on both sides thereof.

[0157] (4) Washing Shrinkage of Stretchable and Low-Stretchable Fabrics After washing, samples were measured for weft and warp densities according to the method described in 8.39.5 (Dimensional Change) of JIS-L-1096 (Testing Methods for Woven and Knit Fabrics). A 60 cm x 60 cm test cloth was cut from a sufficiently dimensionally stabilized sample, and three pairs of marks were made in each direction, spaced 500 mm apart. First, according to JIS 8.39.5b)2.2.2)F-2 (Medium Temperature Washer Method), a sufficient amount of warm water (approximately 60 L) to cover the test specimen was poured into a washing machine, and the test specimen was placed in the machine so that it weighed 1.4 kg. Simultaneously, additive-free powder laundry soap (Type 1) specified in JIS-K-3303 was added to a solution of approximately 0.1%. The machine was then run for 30 minutes. Next, the water was changed to fresh hot water of about 40°C and the machine was operated for 5 minutes, and then changed to fresh hot water of about 40°C and the machine was operated for 10 minutes. After draining the water, the test piece was removed and placed in a tumble dryer and dried at 60°C for 40 minutes, after which the heating was stopped and the dryer was rotated for another 5 minutes to cool the test piece. After the dryer was stopped, the test piece was immediately removed. After spreading the test piece at room temperature and leaving it for 1 hour, the distance (cm) between the three pairs of marks in each of the warp and weft directions was measured and the average value for each warp and weft direction was calculated.

[0158] (5) Constant Load Elongation and Elongation Recovery of Elastic Woven Fabrics and Low Elastic Woven Fabrics The constant load elongation and elongation recovery of the elastic woven fabrics after the above washing treatment were measured in accordance with JIS-L-1096, 8.16.1 "Elongation" Method B (constant load method for woven fabrics) and 8.16.2 "Elongation Recovery and Residual Strain Rate" Method B-1 (constant load method). [Constant Load Elongation (Weft)] Three test pieces measuring 60 mm in the warp direction and 300 mm in the weft direction were taken from a sample adjusted to a stable state of dimensional change to serve as test pieces. These test pieces were subjected to a tensile test using a tensile tester, with the upper end of the test piece fixed with an upper clamp, and the basis weight (g / m ２ A load of 5% of the initial load is applied, marks are made at 250 mm intervals, and a load of 14.7 N (1.5 kgf) is gently applied to the bottom end of the test piece from an unloaded state. After leaving it for 1 minute, the length (mm) between the marks is measured, and the constant load elongation rate (%) is calculated according to the following formula, and the average value of three measurements is calculated. Ｐ = [(L １ '-L ０ ') / L ０ '] × 100 where EＰ : Constant load elongation rate (%), L ０ ': Length between the original marks (250 mm), L １ ': Length (mm) between the marks after applying a load of 14.7 N and leaving for 1 minute. [Elongation recovery rate (weft direction)] A load of 14.7 N was applied to the test piece in the same manner as in the constant load elongation rate measurement, except that the test piece was left for 1 hour with the load applied, and the length (mm) between the marks after 1 hour was measured. The load was then removed, and the basis weight (g / m ２ ) and measure the length (mm) between the marks again. The elongation recovery rate (%) is calculated using the following formula, and the average value of three measurements is calculated. ２ '-L ３ ') / (L ２ '-L ０ ')] × 100 where Er: elongation recovery rate (%), L ０ ': Length between the original marks (250 mm), L ２ ': Length between marks (mm) after applying a load of 14.7 N and leaving it for 1 hour, L ３ ': Length (mm) between the marks when the initial load was applied 30 seconds and 1 hour after the load was removed.

[0159] (6) Bending resistance of stretchable fabrics and low stretchable fabrics Three test pieces with a long side of 204 mm and a short side of 102 mm, with the longitudinal direction being the weft direction of the fabric, were taken from each fabric, and the maximum load (N) was measured according to ASTM-D-4032-94:2002, and the average value was calculated.

[0160] (7) Tensile strength and tear strength of elastic woven fabrics and low elastic woven fabrics The tensile strength and tear strength of the elastic woven fabrics and low elastic woven fabrics before and after the above washing treatment were measured in accordance with JIS-L-1096 (Fabric testing methods for woven and knitted fabrics) 8.14 (tensile strength and elongation) and 8.17 (tear strength), respectively.

[0161] (8) Composite Yarn Density and Warp Yarn Density of Stretch Woven Fabric The composite yarn density and warp yarn density of the stretchable woven fabric before and after the above washing treatment were measured using an automatic woven / knitted fabric density measuring device.

[0162] (9) Weft and Warp Densities of Low Stretch Fabrics The weft and warp densities of the low stretch fabrics before and after the above washing treatment were measured using an automatic woven / knitted fabric density measuring device.

[0163] (10) Total fineness of elastic composite yarn in elastic woven fabric The total fineness (dtex / cm) of the elastic composite yarn per 1 cm width in the warp direction was determined by calculating the product of the fineness (dtex) of the elastic composite yarn and the composite yarn density (threads / cm) after washing treatment.

[0164] (11) Total Fineness of Weft Yarns in Low Stretch Woven Fabrics The total fineness of weft yarns per 1 cm width in the warp direction (dtex / cm) was calculated by multiplying the weft yarn fineness (dtex) by the weft yarn density (counts / cm) after washing.

[0165] Table 1 (continued) Table 1 (continued) Table 1 (continued) Table 1 (continued) Table 1 (continued) Table 1 (continued) Table 1 (continued)

[0166] Note: (1) PU stands for polyurethane. (2) Single-covered type. (3) Double-covered type. (4) PET stands for polyethylene terephthalate. (5) Core-sheath structure.

[0167] The jeans of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were worn by a wearer who felt that the jeans fit snugly around the buttocks and thighs with almost no gaps, and the body shape correcting effect was observed. Figures 16(a) and (c) show the state when the jeans of Example 1 were worn, and Figures 16(b) and (d) show the state when the jeans of Comparative Example 1 were worn.

[0168] The jeans of Example 1 had the effect of lifting and enveloping the buttocks and tightening the thighs, but the jeans of Comparative Example 1 had wrinkles due to looseness in the lower part of the buttocks, and were poor in lifting the buttocks and tightening the thighs.

[0169] In the same manner as above, the body shape correcting effect of each of the jeans obtained in Examples 2 and 3 and Comparative Examples 2 to 5 was also evaluated. Regarding the evaluation criteria, ⊚ indicates that the jeans were excellent in the effect of wrapping and lifting the buttocks and tightening the thighs, ○ indicates that the jeans were effective in wrapping and lifting the buttocks and tightening the thighs, and X indicates that wrinkles occurred in the lower buttocks due to sagging, and the jeans had little effect in lifting the buttocks and tightening the thighs. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0170] Furthermore, the jeans obtained in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated for distortion after washing, color after washing, durability, and differences in touch by the following methods. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0171] (1) Distortion after washing The jeans obtained in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were washed in the same manner as the above-mentioned woven fabrics, in accordance with JIS-L-1096, 8.39.5b)2.2.2)F-2, and then the appearance was visually observed. Regarding the evaluation criteria, ⊚ indicates that the difference in shrinkage between the front and back body was extremely small and no distortion occurred, ○ indicates that the difference in shrinkage between the front and back body was small and no distortion occurred, and X indicates that distortion occurred due to the front body shrinking more than the back body.

[0172] (2) Color after washing After the above-mentioned washing treatment, the color of the front and back body was visually observed by observing the appearance. The evaluation criteria were as follows: ◎ indicates that the difference in color between the front and back body was significantly small; ○ indicates that the difference in color between the front and back body was small; and X indicates that the front body was darker in color than the back body due to greater shrinkage than the back body.

[0173] (3) Durability of the buttocks-covering portion Rectangular test pieces with long sides of 15 cm and short sides of 10 cm were prepared from each of the low-stretch woven fabric for the back body of Example 1 and the stretch woven fabric for the back body of Comparative Example 1, with the weft direction parallel to the long side direction and a roll stitch seam in the center of the long side direction. The tensile breaking strength in the weft direction (long side direction of the test piece) of the obtained test pieces was measured in accordance with 8.14 (tensile strength and elongation), 8.14.1 (JIS method), and Method B (grab method) of JIS-L-1096 (Fabric testing methods for woven and knitted fabrics). Measurements were performed three times for each fabric, and the average value was calculated.

[0174] (4) Difference in texture After the above-mentioned washing treatment, the difference in texture between the front and back body was confirmed by touch. The evaluation criteria were as follows: ◎ indicates that the difference in texture between the front and back body was significantly small; ○ indicates that the difference in texture between the front and back body was small; and X indicates that the back body had a significantly higher stiffness than the front body, resulting in a clear difference in texture.

[0175] Table 2 (continued) Table 2 (continued)

[0176] Notes: (1) Absolute value (2) The fabric broke, not the seam.

[0177] As is clear from Tables 1 and 2, the jeans of Examples 1 to 3 had a front body made of a stretchable fabric and a back body made of a low-stretchable fabric, and were formed so that the difference (absolute value) in washing shrinkage (%) in the weft direction between both bodies was 3% or less, the difference (absolute value) in bending resistance (N) in the weft direction between both bodies was 15N or less, the difference (absolute value) in warp density (counts / cm) between both bodies was 2 counts / cm or less, and the difference (absolute value) in total weft fineness (dtex / cm) per cm width in the warp direction between both bodies was 1,700 dtex / cm or less, and therefore had excellent body shape correcting effect, showed very little distortion after washing, no distortion occurred, there was very little difference in color between the front and back bodies after washing, and there was very little difference in feel between the front and back bodies after washing. Furthermore, the jeans of Example 1 had a back body made of a low-elasticity woven fabric, so the tensile breaking strength of the back body including the seam was high, and it could be said that there was a low risk of tearing when subjected to wearing stress (stretching, rubbing, pressure, etc.) in the buttocks-covering part, and they were excellent in durability.

[0178] The jeans of Comparative Example 1, in which both the front and back body sections were constructed of stretchable fabric, were inferior in body shape correction effect compared to the jeans of Examples 1 to 3. Furthermore, the jeans of Comparative Example 1 had a lower tensile breaking strength in the back body section, including the seam, compared to the jeans of Example 1, and were inferior in durability to the wear load of the buttocks-covering section. The jeans of Comparative Example 2 had a difference (absolute value) in the washing shrinkage rate (%) in the weft direction between the front and back body sections exceeding 3%, and a difference (absolute value) in the total weft fineness (dtex / cm) per cm width in the warp direction between the two body sections exceeded 1,700 dtex / cm, causing the front body section to shrink more than the back body section after washing, resulting in distortion. This resulted in the front body section being darker in color than the back body section, resulting in a difference in the feel of the two body sections after washing. In the jeans of Comparative Example 3, the difference (absolute value) in the bending resistance (N) in the weft direction between the front and back bodies exceeded 15 N, resulting in a difference in the feel of the two bodies after washing, and the front body having a darker color than the back body after washing. In the jeans of Comparative Example 4, the difference (absolute value) in the warp density (counts / cm) between the front and back bodies exceeded 2 counts / cm, resulting in the front body having a darker color than the back body. In the jeans of Comparative Example 5, the difference (absolute value) in the total weft fineness per cm width in the warp direction (dtex / cm) between the front and back bodies exceeded 1,700 dtex / cm, resulting in the front body having a darker color than the back body.

[0179] The garment comprising the stretchable fabric and low-stretchable fabric of the present invention has at least a portion of either the front or back body constructed from the stretchable fabric, and the other of the front or back body constructed primarily from the low-stretchable fabric, and is constructed so that the difference (absolute value) between the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the stretchable fabric and the washing shrinkage value (%) in the weft direction of the low-stretchable fabric is 3% or less.Therefore, the garment has not only high stretchability and stretch recovery, but also a low washing shrinkage value, and has excellent body shape correction effects, making it beautiful when worn.

[0180] In particular, when the garment of the present invention has a front body mainly made of a stretchable fabric and a back body mainly made of a low-stretchable fabric, it is useful as lower-body garments such as trousers, which have high stretchability and stretch recovery as well as low shrinkage in washing, excellent body-shaping effects, and beautiful appearance when worn.Furthermore, when the garment of the present invention has a front body mainly made of a low-stretchable fabric and a back body at least partially made of a stretchable fabric, it is useful as upper-body garments such as jackets, which have high stretchability and stretch recovery as well as low shrinkage in washing, excellent body-shaping effects, and beautiful appearance when worn.

[0181] 1a...Front body 1b...Back body 1c...Front pocket facing fabric 1d...Front pocket bag fabric 1e...Coin pocket 1f...Front placket 1g...Tengu 1h...Yoke 1i...Patch pocket 1j...Waist belt 1k...Belt loops 1m...Chest 1n...Back 1p...Shoulder straps 10a...Front body 11a...Front center body 11a'...Front inner body 11a"...Front side body 10b...Back body 11b...Back center body 11b'...Back side body 10c...Front yoke 10d...Rear yoke 10e...Front sleeve switching fabric 10f...Back sleeve switching fabric 10g...Outer collar 10h...Inner collar 10i...Waist belt 10j...Chest flap 10k...Chest pocket facing fabric 10m...Adjuster 10n...Cuffs DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 2: Elastic composite yarn 2': Composite yarn take-up bobbin 2": Yarn feeding cheese 20: Elastic core yarn 20': Bobbin wound with elastic yarn 21: Sheath yarn 22: Fabric 2a: Hollow spindle 20a: Feed roller 21a: Yarn feeding roller 22a: Covering bobbin 23a: Balloon guide 24a: Delivery roller 25a: Take-up roller 3: Weft brake 4: Weft tensioner 5: Air blowing means (air nozzle) 5a: Nozzle opening 50: Air blower tube 50a: Center part of tube 51: Solenoid valve 52: Proximity switch for operation 53: Compressor 54: Blow-off plate 55: Main shaft of loom 6: Projectile feeder 7: Projectile 70: Picking unit 71: Receiving unit 72: Guide cheese 73: Conveyor 74: Torsion bar 75: Weft end gripper 76: Scissors 8: Stop brake 9: Projectile returner

Claims

1. A garment having a front body and a back body formed primarily of woven fabric, wherein at least a portion of one of the front or back body sections contains a stretchable woven fabric, and the other of the front or back body section is formed primarily of a low-stretch woven fabric, wherein the stretchable woven fabric has a constant-load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of 30% or more and a stretch recovery rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of 85% or more, the low-stretch woven fabric has a constant-load elongation rate (JIS-L-1096) in the weft direction of 10% or less, and the difference (absolute value) between the washing shrinkage rate (%) in the weft direction of the stretchable woven fabric and the washing shrinkage rate (%) in the weft direction of the low-stretch woven fabric is 3% or less.

2. A garment comprising the stretch fabric and low-stretch fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the difference (absolute value) between the bending resistance (ASTM-D-4032-94) value (N) in the weft direction of the stretch fabric and the bending resistance (ASTM-D-4032-94) value (N) in the weft direction of the low-stretch fabric is 15N or less.

3. A garment comprising a stretch fabric and a low-stretch fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the difference (absolute value) between the warp density value (threads / cm) of the stretch fabric and the warp density value (threads / cm) of the low-stretch fabric is 2 threads / cm or less.

4. A garment comprising the stretch fabric and low-stretch fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the shrinkage rate of the stretch fabric in the weft direction after washing is 5% or less.

5. A garment comprising the stretch fabric and low-stretch fabric described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is a lower-body garment having a portion that covers the wearer's lower torso and a pair of leg-covering portions that cover at least a portion of each leg, the front body being formed primarily from the stretch fabric and the back body being formed primarily from the low-stretch fabric.

6. A garment comprising the stretchable fabric and the low-stretchable fabric described in claim 5, characterized in that the pair of leg-covering portions are pants-type lower body garments that cover at least a portion of the wearer's thighs and lower legs, the front body of which is made of the stretchable fabric and the back body of which is made of the low-stretchable fabric.

7. A garment comprising a stretchable fabric and a low-stretchable fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is an upper body garment having a portion covering the upper and middle torso of the wearer and a pair of arm covering portions covering at least a portion of each arm, the front body being formed mainly from the low-stretchable fabric and the back body including at least a portion of the stretchable fabric.

8. A garment comprising a stretchable fabric and a low-stretch fabric as described in claim 7, characterized in that the pair of arm covering portions is a jacket-type upper body garment that covers at least a portion of the wearer's upper arms and forearms, the back body consisting of a rear center body and rear side body portions on both sides, the pair of arm covering portions each consisting of a front sleeve switching fabric and a back sleeve switching fabric, the rear side body portions of the rear body and the back sleeve switching fabrics of the pair of arm covering portions are made of a stretchable fabric, and the front body, the rear center body of the back body, and the front sleeve switching fabrics of the pair of arm covering portions are each made of the low-stretch fabric.

9. The stretchable woven fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising a stretchable composite yarn comprising an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber composited with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, wherein the stretchable composite yarn is at least one selected from the group consisting of: a covered yarn in which a yarn made of the different material fiber is spirally wound around the periphery of the elastic fiber yarn; a core-sheath yarn obtained by spinning the elastic fiber yarn together with a staple fiber roving made of the different material fiber, and having a core-sheath structure having a core component made of the elastic fiber yarn and a sheath component made of a staple fiber yarn formed from the staple fiber roving; an entangled composite yarn in which a filament yarn made of the different material fiber is entangled around the periphery of the elastic fiber yarn; and a plied composite yarn in which the elastic fiber yarn and the yarn made of the different material fiber are directly plied and twisted together, wherein the elongation of the stretchable composite yarn is 30% or more, and the elastic recovery of the stretchable composite yarn is 70% or more.

10. A garment comprising the stretchable fabric and low-stretch fabric described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the stretchable fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising a stretchable composite yarn containing an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a fiber of a different material combined with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, wherein the elongation rate of the stretchable composite yarn is 30% or more, the elastic recovery rate of the stretchable composite yarn is 70% or more, and the total fineness of the stretchable composite yarn per 1 cm width in the warp direction is 3,000 dtex / cm or more.

11. A garment comprising a stretchable fabric and a low-stretch fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the stretchable fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising a stretchable composite yarn comprising an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber composited with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, the stretchable composite yarn being a single covered yarn in which the yarn made of the different material fiber is wound spirally in a single layer as a sheath yarn around a stretchable core yarn made of the elastic fiber yarn, the number of turns of the sheath yarn per meter of the stretchable core yarn being 1,000 to 2,500 T / m, the stretchability of the stretchable composite yarn being 30% or more, the elastic recovery of the stretchable composite yarn being 70% or more, and the stretchability of the stretchable composite yarn in the stretchable fabric during weaving being maintained at 1.30 times or less based on the stretchable composite yarn before weaving.

12. The elastic woven fabric comprises a weft yarn comprising an elastic composite yarn comprising an elastic fiber yarn and a yarn made of a different material fiber combined with the elastic fiber yarn, and a warp yarn comprising a chemical fiber yarn and / or a natural fiber yarn, wherein the elastic composite yarn is a double-covered yarn in which the yarn made of the different material fiber is wound spirally twice as a first twisted yarn and a second twisted yarn around an elastic core yarn made of the elastic fiber yarn, the number of turns of the first twisted yarn per meter of the elastic core yarn is 1,200 to 2,200 T / m, the number of turns of the second twisted yarn per meter of the elastic core yarn is 1,200 to 2,200 T / m, the elongation of the elastic composite yarn is 30% or more, and the elastic recovery of the elastic composite yarn is 70% or more, A garment comprising a stretchable fabric and a low-stretch fabric as described in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that when the stretchable fabric is woven, the stretchable composite yarn maintains an elongation rate of 30% or more, and the elongation ratio of the stretchable composite yarn in the stretchable fabric during weaving is maintained at 1.30 times or less based on the stretchable composite yarn before weaving.

13. A garment comprising a stretch woven fabric and a low stretch woven fabric according to claim 12, characterized in that the first twisted yarn of the sheath yarn of the double covered yarn is a polyester fiber yarn and the second twisted yarn is a cotton yarn.

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