Fast-absorption sunscreen cosmetic composition

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic sunscreen composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising water, at least one oil emollient, a mixture of liposoluble organic sun filters, scleroglucan gum and an emulsifying system containing at least myristyl glucoside. The composition has a lightweight texture and a high rate of absorption by the skin.

Description

[0001] FAST-ABSORBENT COSMETIC SUNSCREEN COMPOSITION

[0002] The present invention falls within the field of cosmetic compositions for sun protection.

[0003] More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, based on liposoluble organic sun filters, as well as the use of such a cosmetic composition for sun protection of the skin.

[0004] TECHNICAL CONTEXT

[0005] The field of photoprotection is a major public health issue to prevent skin damage from overexposure to the sun.

[0006] The potentially harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are well known, and a multitude of sun protection products, commonly called sunscreens, are marketed to prevent these effects. Skin damage is primarily induced by ultraviolet radiation (UVA and / or UVB), but also by visible light, including high-energy blue light, and infrared radiation, through damage to macromolecules leading to lesions of deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA), oxidative stress, lipid peroxidation, and degradation of the dermal matrix.

[0007] Sunscreen products commonly available on the market are typically in the form of emulsions, which vary in their pleasantness to use. One of the drawbacks of the vast majority of these products is the sticky residue and white cast they leave on the skin, which consumers find unsightly, especially those with dark skin tones.

[0008] Document WO 2024 / 023286 describes a cosmetic composition containing a photochemical ultraviolet absorber precursor, with a defined general formula, and a compound to increase its photochemical conversion rate, of the phenylethyl ester type. This composition may contain water, an oily emollient, a mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens in a total content of 4.5% by weight, myristyl glucoside, and sclerotium gum. Document DE 10 2019 207780 (D3) describes a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising liposoluble organic sunscreens, a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester-type emulsifier, and sclerotium gum. Neither of these compositions is fully satisfactory.

[0009] Growing awareness of the dangers of solar radiation is prompting more and more consumers to use products that include sun protection. Their expectations of these products are also rising: consumers are increasingly seeking sunscreens that offer the same level of protection but with improved sensory properties and the most discreet finish possible, particularly so that the sunscreen can be used in conjunction with makeup products that consumers typically use in their daily routine.

[0010] Recent technologies using microencapsulated sunscreens or silicone-based emulsions have made it possible to create fluid, lightweight compositions and claim faster absorption by the skin. However, these compositions are either complex and expensive to manufacture, or they use controversial substances.

[0011] The present invention aims to provide a composition for sun protection, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which has a sun protection performance as high as prior art compositions, this performance preferably being obtained by means of the smallest possible number of sun filters, and which meets current consumer requirements, in particular: good ease of distribution on the skin, high speed of absorption by the skin, and no sticky residues and white marks on the skin, i.e. an invisible finish.

[0012] Additional objectives of the invention are that this composition generally exhibits good sensory qualities, and in particular that it provides a feeling of freshness; and that it preferably has a light and fluid texture.

[0013] The invention further aims to achieve these results without compromising the stability of the composition over time, without increasing its cost price compared to prior art emulsion compositions, and without the need to incorporate controversial substances.

[0014] DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors discovered that these objectives can be achieved by combining, in an oil-in-water emulsion composition, particularly one with a high water content, specific liposoluble sunscreens, a specific emulsifying agent and a specific gelling agent.

[0016] Thus, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic sun protection composition is proposed in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, and comprising:

[0017] - water,

[0018] - at least one oily emollient,

[0019] - a mixture of oil-soluble organic sunscreens, the content of said mixture of oil-soluble organic sunscreens in said composition being between 10 and 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0020] - an emulsifying system containing at least myristyl glucoside, the myristyl glucoside being included in the composition in a content exceeding 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0021] - and scleroglucan gum, which plays a role in the composition as a gelling agent.

[0022] In this composition, myristyl glucoside may be the only emulsifying agent contained in the emulsifying system. When the emulsifying system contains at least one other emulsifying agent besides myristyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside must constitute at least 40% by weight of the total weight of the emulsifying system.

[0023] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase being dispersed homogeneously, in the form of fine droplets, in the aqueous phase which is continuous.

[0024] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 45% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention, meeting the above characteristics, is advantageously stable, meaning that no phase separation is observed over time between the aqueous and oily phases that constitute it; it is invisible on the skin, spreads easily, and is rapidly absorbed. These advantages can also be obtained even when the composition contains a high concentration of oil-soluble sunscreens, sufficient to ensure optimal high sun protection for the consumer.

[0025] The composition according to the invention also advantageously presents a very soft touch and a so-called gel-cream texture.

[0026] Gel-cream products are well-known and characterized by their easy application to the skin, leaving a cooling sensation. These products generally contain a relatively high proportion of a hydrophilic gelling agent, usually xanthan gum. However, the inventors have observed that applying a composition as defined by the invention, containing xanthan gum as a gelling agent, generates sticky residues on the skin. Unexpectedly, such residues do not form on the skin with the composition according to the invention, which contains scleroglucan gum as a gelling agent.

[0027] Scleroglucan gum, with the INCI name Sclerotium gum, also commonly called sclerotium gum, is a natural polysaccharide, produced by bacterial fermentation, notably by species of the genus Sclerotium such as the species Sclerotium rolfssii.

[0028] The content of this gum in the composition is preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8%, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.3 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0029] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, scleroglucan gum is the only gelling agent contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0030] The composition according to the invention may otherwise include one or more additional gelling agents, for example selected from the following compounds and their derivatives: guar gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, pectin, agar agar, xanthan gum, carrageenans, alginates, acrylates, celluloses, or any mixture thereof.

[0031] The total content of gelling agents (including scleroglucan gum) in the composition is then preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 0.8%, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.3 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In particular embodiments of the invention where the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional gelling agents, scleroglucan gum then preferably represents at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, even more preferably at least 70%, even more preferably at least 80%, and advantageously at least 90%, by weight of the total weight of the gelling agents (including scleroglucan gum). Preferably, the composition is free of xanthan gum.

[0033] In particular embodiments, it is also preferably free of alginates, carrageenans, celluloses, acrylates and their derivatives.

[0034] The composition according to the invention is even more preferably free of carbomers.

[0035] In this description, "free of" an ingredient means that the composition contains less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight, of that ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, or, even more preferably, that it does not contain that ingredient.

[0036] The composition according to the invention, in addition to having an initial gel-cream texture that makes it easy to squeeze and spread on the skin's surface, also exhibits a particularly rapid absorption rate. Specifically, the composition according to the invention liquefies upon application to the skin and is felt to be completely absorbed in less than 5 seconds. The mechanisms underlying this advantageous result will not be discussed here. However, it can be assumed that the specific choice of emulsifying agent, myristyl glucoside, the specific choice of gelling agent, scleroglucan gum, and, in preferred embodiments of the invention, the high water content of the composition all contribute to this effect.

[0037] The water content of the composition according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 45% by weight, preferably between 45 and 70% by weight, in particular between 45 and 65% by weight, or even between 45 and 60% by weight, and for example between 45 and 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] The term "sunscreen", as used in this description, classically refers to a substance capable of filtering solar radiation to protect a surface, typically the skin or hair, from the harmful effects of this radiation.

[0039] Furthermore, "sun protection" is understood to mean protection against the effects of ultraviolet radiation, particularly UVA and / or UVB, and / or blue light. The term "sun protection," as used in this description, encompasses not only protection against the harmful effects of solar radiation, but also against artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated, for example, by tanning lamps. More specifically, sun protection here is understood as preventing, or at least limiting, the contact of ultraviolet radiation and / or blue light with the surface to be protected, through mechanisms of absorption, reflection, and / or scattering of UVA and / or UVB radiation and / or blue light.

[0040] The term "ultraviolet radiation" or "UV radiation", commonly abbreviated "UV", refers to solar ultraviolet radiation but also to artificial ultraviolet radiation, generated by tanning lamps for example.

[0041] The term "UVA radiation" or simply "UVA" refers to ultraviolet rays with a wavelength λ between 320 and 400 nm. The term "UVB radiation" or simply "UVB" refers to ultraviolet rays with a wavelength λ between 290 and 320 nm. A sunscreen is classified as a "UVA filter" or "UVB filter" depending on whether it primarily filters UVA or UVB rays. Within the scope of the present invention, any conventionally known, fat-soluble organic sunscreen may be included in the composition according to the invention.The liposoluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention can thus in particular be of the type of triazine derivatives, benzotriazole and phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, amino-substituted benzophenone and 2-hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, merocyanine derivatives, para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, β3,P'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, anthranilic derivatives, imidazoline derivatives, benzylmalonate derivatives, etc.

[0042] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the mixture of oil-soluble organic sunscreens comprises at least one, preferably several, oil-soluble organic sunscreens selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate. Any combination of two or more of these filters may be included in the oil-soluble organic sunscreen mixture of the composition. In particular embodiments of the invention, the oil-soluble organic sunscreen mixture of the composition contains no other oil-soluble organic sunscreens than those listed. It may otherwise contain additional oil-soluble organic sunscreens.

[0043] In preferred embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises, in the mixture of fat-soluble organic filters, at least bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0044] In particular embodiments of the invention, the mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens of the composition according to the invention comprises at least:

[0045] - 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]hexyl benzoate (CAS No.: 302776-68-7; INCI name: Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate), also known as diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or DHHB, as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul A Plus®. This is a non-soluble UVA1 filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Åmax of 354 nm. In particular embodiments, DHHB represents between 1 and 12%, in particular between 4 and 12%, or between 1 and 10%, for example between 3 and 10%, in particular between 4 and 9%, typically between 5 and 8%, in particular between 5 and 7%, in particular between 6 and 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0046] - and / or 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (CAS No.: 187393-00-6; INCI name: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), also known as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or BEMT, as marketed by BASF under the name Tinosorb S®. This is a lipid-soluble broadband filter with two absorption peaks at 310 nm and 340 nm. In certain embodiments, BEMT represents between 1 and 6%, in particular between 2 and 6%, or between 1 and 5%, in particular between 2 and 5%, in particular between 2 and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] The mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one of the following:

[0048] - ethylhexyl triazone or EHT (chemical name: 2-ethylhexyl ester of 4-[[4,6-bis[[4-(2-ethylhexoxy-oxomethyl)phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoic acid; CAS No.: 88122-99-00), as marketed by BASF under the name Uvinul T 150®. This is a lipophilic UVB filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength Åmax of 314 nm. In particular embodiments, EHT represents between 1 and 6%, typically between 2 and 5%, in particular between 3 and 5%, in particular between 3.5 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0049] - and / or diethylhexyl butamido triazone or DBT (chemical name: 4,4'-[[6-[[4- [[(1,1-dimethylethyl)amino]carbonyl]phenyl]amino]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl]diimino]bis-,bis(2-ethylhexyl)benzoate; CAS No.: 154702-15-5; INCI name: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone), as marketed by 3V Sigma under the name Uvasorb HEB®. This is a fat-soluble UVB filter with a maximum absorption wavelength Åmax of 310 nm. In particular embodiments, DBT represents between 1 and 8%, especially between 4 and 8% or between 1 and 6%, typically between 2 and 5%, especially between 3 and 5%, particularly between 3.5 and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] The mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in the composition according to the invention may consist of 3 or 4 of these sunscreens.

[0051] Alternatively, it may contain one or more other oil-soluble organic sunscreens, for example:

[0052] - 4-tert-butyl-4-methoxydibenzoylmethane or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (chemical name 1,4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)phenyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propanedione; CAS No.: 70356-09-1), also known as avobenzone or BMDBM, as marketed notably by DSM under the name Parsol 1789®. It is a fat-soluble UVA filter, having a maximum absorption wavelength λmax of 357 nm. In particular embodiments of the invention, BMDBM represents between 1% and 10%, for example between 1% and 8%, in particular between 1% and 5%, typically between 2% and 4%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.It is well known, however, that the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane molecule, a widely used UVA filter in commercial sunscreens, cleaves into various chemical constituents lacking absorbing capacity when subjected to UV irradiation, unless combined with other compounds to improve its photostability. Therefore, preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0053] - 2-Ethylhexyl salicylate (CAS No. 118-60-5), also known as octyl salicylate or ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), as marketed by Aako BV under the name AakoSun EHS®. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may not include ethylhexyl salicylate;

[0054] - methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate (chemical name: 2-ethoxyethyl (2Z)-2-cyano-2-[3-(3-methoxypropylamino)cyclohex-2-en-1-ylidene]acetate; CAS No.: 1419401-88-9). In particular embodiments of the invention, the concentration of methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may not include methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

[0055] The composition according to the invention is preferably free of particulate sunscreens. This characteristic further enhances the sensory qualities of the composition, particularly its light texture. The composition according to the invention is, in particular, preferably free of organic particulate sunscreens, or at least of one or more of the organic particulate sunscreens with the INCI names: phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and tris-biphenyl triazine. It is, in particular, preferably free of phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, a name commonly used to designate 5,6,5',6'-tetraphenyl-3,3'-(1,4-phenylene)-bis[1,2,4]triazine (CAS No. 55514-22-2, INCI name: phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine).

[0056] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is also free of inorganic particulate sunscreens, or at least of the inorganic particulate sunscreen titanium dioxide and / or the inorganic particulate sunscreen zinc oxide.

[0057] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention further does not comprise octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

[0058] Octocrylene is suspected of being a potential endocrine disruptor. Other sunscreens present in many commercial products are also subject to controversy due to their potentially harmful effects on the user or the environment, and are therefore preferentially excluded from the composition according to the invention. Examples include derivatives of cinnamate (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate), homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA, octyl dimethyl PABA), camphor (3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor), and benzophenone (benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4). The use of such compounds is therefore undesirable. In certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention does not include any water-soluble sunscreen.Alternatively, it may contain at least one water-soluble organic sunscreen, such as at least one phenylbenzimidazole derivative, for example phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid or one of its salts.

[0059] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition does not comprise any sun filters other than those contained in the mixture of fat-soluble organic sun filters.

[0060] These organic, liposoluble sunscreens are also preferably in a number less than or equal to 6, preferably less than or equal to 5, preferably even less than or equal to 4, for example equal to 3.

[0061] More generally, the total number of sun filters present in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 5, preferably less than or equal to 4, and even more preferably equal to 3.

[0062] The mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in the composition according to the invention is, for example, composed of:

[0063] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate,

[0064] 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine,

[0065] - and ethylhexyl triazone.

[0066] Alternatively, it can consist of:

[0067] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate,

[0068] 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine,

[0069] - and diethylhexyl butamido triazone.

[0070] Alternatively, it can also consist of:

[0071] - hexyl 2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]benzoate,

[0072] 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine,

[0073] - diethylhexyl butamido triazone,

[0074] - and ethylhexyl triazone. In the three above configurations of the mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens, the constituents of this mixture are preferably the only sunscreens contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0075] The content of sun filters in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen so that this composition has a sun protection factor (SPF) between 20 and 99, preferably between 30 and 80 and more preferably between 50 and 80.

[0076] The total SPF of the composition is evaluated in a conventional manner on its own, for wavelengths between 290 and 400 nm. Its value can be determined according to ISO 24444 "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0077] Generally, the total content of sunscreens in the composition according to the invention is between 10 and 26% by weight. It is preferably between 10 and 22% by weight, in particular between 12 and 20% by weight, for example between 14 and 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of said mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in the composition, particularly when the latter is devoid of any sunscreen other than of the fat-soluble organic type, is also between 10 and 26% by weight. It is preferably between 10 and 22% by weight, in particular between 12 and 20% by weight, for example between 14 and 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Such contents in said mixture of liposoluble organic sunscreens advantageously allow the composition to have an SPF greater than or equal to 50, for example between 50 and 60, including when this mixture consists of the 3 or 4 particular filters mentioned above, and preferably only 3 filters, and the composition does not include any other sunscreen than these.

[0079] The composition also advantageously meets the objectives, particularly sensory ones, set by the present invention even when it includes such a high content of sun filters.

[0080] In particular embodiments of the invention, the constituents of the mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens, as well as the content of each in the composition, are chosen so that the latter has an SPF / UVA ratio of less than or equal to 3, preferably less than or equal to 2.5, in accordance with the regulations in force.

[0081] The composition according to the invention comprises, as an emulsifying agent, at least myristyl glucoside, which is a product obtained by condensation of myristic alcohol with a glucose polymer.

[0082] Myristyl glucoside can notably be incorporated into the composition according to the invention in a mixture with myristyl alcohol, in the form of the product bearing the INCI name: Myristyl Alcohol & Myristyl glucoside. Such a product is notably marketed under the name Montanov® 14 by the company Seppic.

[0083] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the myristyl glucoside content in the composition is less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content is preferably between 0.55% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.6% and 1% by weight, and most preferably between 0.6% and 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a content of this emulsifying agent, on the one hand, ensures good stability of the composition, and on the other hand, contributes to giving it a light texture.

[0084] Myristyl glucoside may be the only emulsifying agent contained in the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention.

[0085] When the emulsifying system of the composition contains at least one other emulsifying agent, then myristyl glucoside represents at least 40% by weight, and for example at least 45% by weight, of the total weight of said emulsifying system.

[0086] It is understood here that all the emulsifying agents of the composition according to the invention are considered to be contained in the emulsifying system.

[0087] When myristyl glucoside is provided in the composition in the form of the aforementioned Montanov® 14 product, the content of this product preferably represents at least 70% by weight, and preferably at least 75% by weight, of the total weight of this product and of the emulsifying agents other than myristyl glucoside contained in the composition.

[0088] At least one other such emulsifying agent may be chosen from among the emulsifiers suitable for forming oil-in-water type emulsions known to those skilled in the art, such as potassium cetyl phosphate or sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0089] Potassium cetyl phosphate is preferably the only other emulsifying agent contained in the composition according to the invention.

[0090] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of emulsifying agents from the glucoside family, other than myristyl glucoside.

[0091] The composition according to the invention is also preferably free of polyglyceryl-6 laurate.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention, and more specifically its emulsifying system, contains at most four, preferably at most three, and for example at most two, emulsifying agents, including myristyl glucoside. The total content of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside in the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, between 0.5 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the total content of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside in the emulsifying system of the composition according to the invention is strictly greater than 0.5% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example, between 0.55% and 1% by weight, in particular between 0.6% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] In particular, in embodiments in which potassium cetyl phosphate is the only other emulsifying agent contained in the composition according to the invention, the content of potassium cetyl phosphate in the latter is preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example between 0.55 and 1% by weight, in particular between 0.6 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] Such levels of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside contribute advantageously to giving the composition according to the invention a light and fluid texture.

[0095] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily emollient, in particular a combination of oily emollients, for example a liquid fat or a combination of liquid fats. "Oily emollient" means a liquid lipophilic compound present in the oil phase of the emulsion, providing the composition according to the invention with good sensory qualities and good skin-softening properties. "Liquid lipophilic compound" means a compound that has an affinity for nonpolar substances such as lipids, and is in liquid form, particularly at a temperature between 5°C and ambient temperature (between 20°C and 25°C).This compound typically comprises one or more polar chemical function(s) chosen from among the ester (-CO2-), alcohol (-OH), ether (-O-), carbonate (-OCO2-) and carboxylic acid (-CO2H) functions, and one or more lipophilic group(s), i.e. one or more aliphatic and / or aromatic hydrocarbon group(s), in particular one or more saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain(s), comprising between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, for example between 7 and 18 carbon atoms, especially between 8 and 16 carbon atoms.

[0096] The oily emollient(s) included in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen to be able to solubilize, alone or in combination, all the liposoluble organic sunscreens contained therein.

[0097] At least one oily emollient of the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, and dicaprylyl ether, these compounds being able to be used in the composition according to the invention alone or in any of their combinations.

[0098] The oily emollient(s) may, in particular, be selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, and combinations thereof. For example, the composition according to the invention may contain, as oily emollients, a combination of C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and diisopropyl sebacate; or consist of such a combination.

[0099] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition according to the invention is devoid of caprylic / capric triglycerides. Alternatively, it may also contain the oily emollient caprylic / capric triglycerides.

[0100] The total content of oily emollients in the composition according to the invention is preferably between 12.5 and 25% by weight, in particular between 13.5 and 24.5% by weight, preferably between 15 and 24% by weight, and most preferably between 18 and 22% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular embodiments, the total content of oily emollients in the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 15 and 20% by weight, for example between 18 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] The composition according to the invention may contain any other cosmetically compatible ingredient, classic in itself in the field of cosmetic compositions intended for topical application on the skin and hair.

[0102] In the present invention, "cosmetically compatible" means something that is useful in the preparation, preservation, or administration of a cosmetic composition and that is generally safe, non-toxic, and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable, and that is acceptable for human cosmetic use.

[0103] These ingredients are specifically chosen to improve the properties of the composition, for example its moisturizing power, or to give it additional properties such as, for example, a film-forming effect.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any controversial ingredients.

[0105] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one consistency factor, which may be contained in the aqueous phase and / or in the oily phase, and preferably contained in the oily phase. This consistency factor or factors are preferably selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and other waxy substances.

[0106] The composition according to the invention may in particular contain, as consistency factor(s):

[0107] - at least one fatty alcohol, preferably C14-C22, such as myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenic alcohol; preferably it contains myristyl alcohol (INCI name: Myristyl alcohol);

[0108] - and / or at least one fatty acid, preferably C16-C18, such as lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid;

[0109] - and / or at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil, in particular hydrogenated castor oil;

[0110] - and / or at least one other waxy substance, having a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, preferably strictly greater than 45°C, such as glycol palmitate, vegetable waxes (such as carnauba wax, sunflower wax, jojoba wax), beeswax or the mixture of tribehenin / glyceryl dibehenate / glyceryl behenate (mixture of substances with INCI name: Tribehenin / Glyceryl Dibehenate / Glyceryl behenate) which can be found, among other things, in the commercial material COMPRITOL® 888.

[0111] The total content of consistency factor(s) in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example less than or equal to 4% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is, for example, between 2% and 4% by weight, in particular between 2% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] When the composition contains myristic alcohol, the content of this compound is preferably between 1.55 and 3% by weight, in particular between 2 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0113] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol. According to the present invention, "polyol" (also called polyalcohol) means a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and comprising at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0114] The polyol(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0115] The polyol(s) used in the composition according to the invention can in particular be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. In particular, they can be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, octane 1,2-diol (also called caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols, especially those having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, the polyglycitol, alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0116] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 10% by weight of polyols, preferably less than 8% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight and even more preferably less than 2% by weight, for example between 0.2 and 0.5% by weight, of polyols, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition contains from 0.01 to 1% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, notably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, for example from 0.01 to 0.7% by weight, of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition, or is devoid of glycerin.

[0118] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more starches, which play in particular the role of mattifying agent(s), such as tapioca starch and / or rice starch (Oryza sativa).

[0119] The composition according to the invention is preferably free of silica. It is also preferably free of silicone. For the purposes of the present invention, silicone, or polysiloxane, classically means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear and / or cyclic, branched and / or cross-linked structure, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms, hydrocarbon radicals, possibly substituted, in particular by hydroxyl groups, being directly linked by a carbon atom to these silicon atoms.

[0120] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is also preferably free of phenoxyethanol, which is suspected of being an endocrine disruptor.

[0121] The composition according to the invention may contain one or more preservatives, or be free of them.

[0122] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA). Alternatively, it may contain such an acid.

[0123] The composition may also include colour pigments, in particular chosen from CI77891, CI77491, CI77492 and / or CI77499 (INCI designations).

[0124] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of C1-C4 monoalcohol(s), such as ethanol and / or isopropanol, this amount preferably being less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example between 3 and 5% by weight, and for example between 3 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] In alternative embodiments of the invention, the composition is devoid of C1-C4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0126] In particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of volatile ingredients which is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 1% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile ingredients" means non-alcoholic volatile organic or inorganic compounds such as volatile esters, silicones or alkanes, characterized by a flash point below 60°C.

[0128] For the purposes of this invention, "flash point" (FP) means the minimum temperature at which a combustible substance emits vapors in a concentration sufficient to form a gaseous mixture with the surrounding air that ignites upon contact with a flame or a hot spot, but insufficient for combustion to propagate spontaneously in the absence of a pilot flame. According to Regulation (EC) No 1272 / 2008 on the classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures, a substance with an FP such that 23°C < FP < 60°C belongs to category 3 "low flammability".

[0129] Examples of volatile esters include isohexyl neopentanoate. Examples of volatile silicones include cyclopentasiloxane. Examples of volatile alkanes include isohexadecane.

[0130] In particular embodiments, the composition according to the invention is devoid of volatile ingredients within the meaning of the present invention.

[0131] The composition is also preferably free of surfactants, in particular amphoteric surfactants.

[0132] In particular embodiments of the invention, the solar cosmetic composition is free of microplastics.

[0133] The term "microplastic" in the context of the present invention means microparticles of synthetic polymers, and refers to the definition given in the regulation published on 27 September 2023: Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 2055 of 25 September 2023 amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), as regards synthetic polymer microparticles.According to this document, microplastics, or microparticles of synthetic polymers, are defined as polymers that are solid and that either are contained within particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of these particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, when at least 1% by weight of these particles fulfill one of the following conditions: (a) all dimensions of the particles are less than or equal to 5 mm; (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3.The following polymers are excluded from this designation: (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances; (b) polymers that are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex 15 of the document; (c) polymers that have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex 16 of the document (solubility test in water at pH 7 under stirring for 24 h at 20°C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals); (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure. Synthetic polymer microparticles covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0134] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles with all dimensions less than 5 mm, formed or coated with solid synthetic organic polymer(s) that are insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0135] Thus, in particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free of microplastic polyquaterniums, ingredients used in many cosmetic compositions proposed by the prior art. It is also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0136] However, in particular embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic composition may comprise one or more non-microplastic acrylates, in particular selected from the group consisting of (INCI names):

[0137] - Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,

[0138] - Acrylates / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer,

[0139] - Sodium Polyacrylate,

[0140] - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer,

[0141] - Acrylates Copolymer,

[0142] - Polyacrylate-13,

[0143] - Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer,

[0144] - Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer,

[0145] - Polyacrylamide,

[0146] - VP / MethacrylamideA / inyl Imidazole Copolymer, - Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer,

[0147] - Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, utilisés seuls ou dans l’un quelconque de leurs mélanges.

[0148] The composition according to the invention may additionally contain one or more cosmetically active agents for topical use in skin care and / or hygiene. Each such active agent may consist of any active ingredient possessing cosmetic properties. It may be selected from natural products, including plant extracts, extracts derived from biotechnology, such as plant cell or microalgae cultures, chemicals, or postbiotics, or any combination thereof.

[0149] The total concentration of active agent(s) in the composition according to the invention may, for example, be between 0.01 and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 1.5% by weight, and especially between 0.1 and 1% by weight, for example between 0.1 and 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a cosmetically active agent contained in the composition according to the invention is hyaluronic acid and / or at least one of its cosmetically acceptable salts. A hyaluronic acid salt usable according to the invention is, in particular, an alkali salt and may, in particular, be selected from sodium hyaluronate and potassium hyaluronate. Preferably, it is sodium hyaluronate.

[0150] Preferably, hyaluronic acid has a high molecular weight, that is to say a molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, advantageously greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, and more advantageously from 1000 to 2000 kDa, and even more advantageously from 1000 to 1500 kDa.

[0151] One example of such hyaluronic acid is the hyaluronic acid supplied by Givaudan under the trade name CRISTALHYAL®, which has a molecular weight of 1 to 1.5 MDa.

[0152] Thus, in particular embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises hyaluronic acid of molecular weight greater than or equal to 100 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 1000 kDa, in particular between 1000 and 2000 kDa, or between 1000 and 1500 kDa, or one of its salts.

[0153] In preferred embodiments of the invention, the concentration of hyaluronic acid or at least one of its cosmetically acceptable salts is between 0.01 and 2% by weight, in particular between 0.05 and 1.5% by weight, in particular again between 0.1 and 1% by weight, for example between 0.1 and 0.7% by weight, or even 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] The composition according to the invention may also, for example, contain, as a cosmetically active agent, tocopheryl glucoside, zinc gluconate, glyceryl laurate and / or an extract of Lens esculenta seeds.

[0155] The composition according to the invention can be prepared by any conventional process in itself for the preparation of oil-in-water emulsions.

[0156] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is in particular intended to be applied topically to any area of ​​skin of a subject likely to be exposed to solar radiation or artificial ultraviolet radiation, in particular an area of ​​skin on the face or body of the subject.

[0157] Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, this use including the topical application of the composition to said skin and / or hair. The subject may be a mammal, in particular a human.

[0158] Throughout this description, the term "skin" encompasses both the skin itself and mucous membranes, particularly the lips. The term "cutaneous" encompasses both what relates to the skin and what relates to the mucous membranes.

[0159] The composition according to the invention can, for example, be applied topically to an area of ​​skin of the subject concerned, such as the skin of the face, including the lips, or of the body, in an effective quantity, as often as necessary before or during exposure to solar radiation.

[0160] Applying the composition to the skin involves making contact with the skin, preferably followed by a skin massage, particularly with circular motions, to promote penetration. A very short massage, less than 5 seconds, is advantageously sufficient to achieve a feeling of complete absorption of the composition by the skin, due to the skin's excellent absorption properties. After application, no sticky residue or white marks are observed on the skin. In other words, the composition according to the invention advantageously leaves no visible and / or unpleasant marks on the skin.

[0161] The invention is also expressed in terms of a therapeutic method for the sun protection of an area of ​​skin of a subject, in particular a human, this method comprising the topical application, on this area of ​​skin, of an effective quantity of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0162] This process can meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0163] The present invention also relates to a method for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, particularly a human, for the sun protection of that area of ​​skin and / or hair, by topical application to that area of ​​skin and / or hair of an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. Again, this method may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for the sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0164] Another object of the invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for sun protection of an area of ​​skin and / or hair of a subject, particularly a human. This use includes the topical application of this composition to this area of ​​skin and / or hair. It may have one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the use of the composition according to the invention for sun protection of the skin and / or hair.

[0165] EXAMPLES

[0166] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation examples, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limiting the invention.

[0167] 1 / Example 1 - Composition according to the invention and comparative compositions

[0168] A cosmetic composition according to the invention, designated Inv 1, and comparative compositions not conforming to the invention, C1 and C2, are described below. These two comparative compositions correspond to commercially available sunscreens, with very different ingredients but with claims similar to those of the invention, namely rapid, even immediate, absorption and lightweight textures. They have an SPF of 50. The formula of the composition according to the invention, Inv 1, is shown in Table 1. In this table, the content of each ingredient is indicated as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The contents of Myristyl glucoside and Potassium cetyl phosphate are chosen jointly to ensure that the Myristyl glucoside content is greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the combined weight of Myristyl glucoside and Potassium cetyl phosphate.

[0169] Tableau 1 - Formule de la composition selon l’invention Inv 1

[0170] La formule de la composition comparative C1 , crème solaire, est la suivante (Noms INCI) : Aqua, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Propanediol, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Polymethyl methacrylate, Dimethicone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, Polysilicone-15, Propylene glycol, Dicaprylate / dicaprate, Tromethamine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Silica, Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, 1 ,2-hexanediol, polysorbate 60, PEG-10 dimethicone, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopheryl acetate, Xanthan gum, Caprylyl glycol, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Tocopherol, Tropolone, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid.

[0171] La formule de la composition comparative C2, crème solaire, est la suivante (Noms INCI) : Aqua, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl triazone, Isopropyl palmitate, Lauryl methacrylate / sodium methacrylate crosspolymer, Diethylamine hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Dextrin palmitate, Butylene glycol, Xylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Dimethicone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl behenate, Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, Potassium hydroxide, Cetyl alcohol, Agar, Sorbitan distearate, lsoceteth-20, Polyvinyl alcohol, Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosscopolymer, Stearoyl glutamic acid, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, BHT, Sodium hydroxide, Tocopherol, Royal jelly extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Methylparaben.

[0172] 2 / Exemple 2 - Vitesse d’absorption des compositions par la peau

[0173] The aim of this study is to evaluate the rate of absorption by the skin of the composition according to the invention Inv 1 and to compare it to that of topical compositions intended for sun protection C1 and C2.

[0174] This evaluation is conducted in sensory booths with 13 volunteers trained and validated in the sensory technique for topical compositions. Temperature, lighting, and humidity are controlled throughout the study. Comfortable conditions are maintained for the evaluators. The absorption rate is recorded as follows: 25 ml of a composition are applied to an evaluator's forearm, and the number of rotations required for the product to be absorbed by the skin is counted, or more precisely, the number of rotations required for the person to feel that all the product has been absorbed. The rotations are performed in time with a metronome. Since the three compositions are coded, each evaluator tests them in any order.

[0175] The results of the absorption assessment are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0176] Table 2 - Results of the absorption assessment of the compositions

[0177] For the comparative compositions C1 and C2, at least 10 rotations are required to feel any absorption. No significant difference is observed between these two compositions.

[0178] On the other hand, the composition according to the invention Inv 1 is absorbed more rapidly, this difference in absorption rate is significantly different (p<0.05, Tukey test) versus the comparative compositions.

[0179] The inventors thus clearly demonstrate that the composition according to the invention fulfills a main objective, which is to achieve rapid absorption by the skin.

[0180] 3 / Example 3 - Sensory profiles of compositions

[0181] The aim of this study is to evaluate, for the composition according to the invention Inv 1 and for the comparative compositions C1 and C2, different sensory criteria, which are detailed in Table 3 below.

[0182] To describe each criterion as accurately as possible, the evaluation methodology is standardized, the product is applied to the desired area (forearm) and 15 rotations are performed to the rhythm of the metronome before noting the criterion.

[0183] Table 3 - Descriptive criteria of the sensory profile

[0184] A computer-based questionnaire presents unstructured analog scales from 0 to 10 for each of the descriptive criteria on the computer screen. The results of the evaluation are summarized in Table 4 below, with mean values ​​including standard deviation for each attribute. versus C2

[0185] We observe that: - on the descriptor criterion "Sticky", the composition according to the invention is significantly better than C1, and similar to C2;

[0186] - on the descriptive criteria "Immediate white residue" and "Residual white residue", the results are similar for the 3 compositions; - on the descriptive criterion "Powdery feel", the composition according to the invention is significantly better than C1 and C2;

[0187] - on the descriptor criterion "Dry touch", the results are similar for the 3 compositions;

[0188] - and on the descriptor criterion "Immediate oily effect", the composition according to the invention is significantly better than C1, and similar to C2.

[0189] These results demonstrate that the composition according to the invention exhibits highly desirable sensory characteristics. Indeed, the panel perceived little to no stickiness, with extremely low values ​​reported, and even a significantly less sticky effect than composition C1. The near absence of white residue immediately after application or one minute later is also a significant sensory characteristic of the composition according to the invention. A pronounced powdery feel (a "peach skin" effect), consistently sought after by consumers, is highlighted in this study, and this effect appears significantly better than in the two comparative compositions. In addition to this powdery feel, a dry touch is also noteworthy, with very good results, equivalent to those of compositions C1 and C2.Finally, the oily effect quantified immediately after application is very little felt by the panel, this effect is even significantly weaker than that felt with composition C1.

[0190] The inventors thus demonstrate that the composition according to the invention exhibits a very rapid absorption rate, combined with truly remarkable sensory characteristics. This rapid absorption and the near absence of white residue upon application highlight the invisible nature of this composition according to the invention.

[0191] 4 / Example 4 - Subjective questionnaire for evaluating a composition according to the invention

[0192] The aim of this study is to verify the efficacy of the composition according to invention Inv 1 through the subjective evaluation / perception of subjects via self-assessment. The study is conducted on 33 subjects over 3 weeks. The composition according to the invention is applied twice daily to the face, neck, and décolleté of these subjects. Three visits with a dermatologist are mandatory: on day 1 to enroll the subjects, on day 8 for a second examination, and at the end of the study on day 22.

[0193] Different questions about the perception of the applied product are asked of each subject.

[0194] Table 5 below summarizes the questions and the rates of positive responses to these questions, obtained in the study.

[0195] Table 5 - Results of the subjective self-assessment study for the composition according to invention Inv 1, 8 days (“D8”) and 22 days (“D22”) after the start of the study

[0196] It is interesting to note that the responses to this questionnaire are overwhelmingly positive. The sensation of immediate absorption was almost unanimous on day 8 and truly unanimous on day 22. Over 90% of participants found the product invisible on the skin, both on day 8 and day 22, a finding corroborated by the near absence of residue. The sensation of an ultra-light texture was also reported by 97% of participants. Over 80% found the texture refreshing on day 8 and nearly 95% on day 22. Approximately 80% of participants felt the product left a non-greasy finish on the skin.

[0197] 5 / Example 5 - Comparison of texture perception of a composition according to the invention with another oil-in-water emulsion available on the market in the sun care range A panel of 12 evaluators accustomed to this type of evaluation in sensory booths tested a so-called standard composition not conforming to the invention (C3) and compared it to a composition according to the invention (Inv 1).

[0198] 25 ml of each product were applied to a 7 cm diameter area of ​​the forearm. Each evaluator performed the comparison in triplicate.

[0199] La formule de la composition comparative C3, qui se présente sous forme d’une émulsion huile-dans-eau, est la suivante (Noms INCI) : Aqua, Silica, Isononyl Isononanoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Titanium Dioxide, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Triethanolamine, Glycerin, Octocrylene, Caprylyl Methicone, Pentylene Glycol, Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Propylene Glycol, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium AcryloyldimethyltaurateA / P Copolymer, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Silica Silylate, Tocopherol, Polylactic Acid, Poloxamer 338, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA,Myristic Acid, t-Butyl Alcohol, BHT, perfume.,

[0200] The evaluators were asked to compare the lightness of the composition according to invention Inv 1 to that of the standard composition, measuring whether there was a difference and, if so, the degree of difference compared to the reference. The evaluation scale used by the evaluators is illustrated below:

[0201] 3: 3 times lighter than the standard,

[0202] 2: Twice as light as the standard,

[0203] 1: once lighter than the standard,

[0204] 0: like the standard,

[0205] -1: once less light than the standard,

[0206] -2: twice as heavy as the standard,

[0207] -3: 3 times less light than the standard.

[0208] A statistical analysis was performed (Student's t-test).

[0209] The results obtained are as follows:

[0210] - In terms of lightness, the composition according to the invention Inv 1 obtains a score of 1.58 ± 0.50 (p<0.05 versus standard) on this scale. This means that the composition according to the invention is between 1 and 2 times lighter than the standard composition;

[0211] - 58% of the responses (i.e. 21 out of 36 possible responses) are: 2 times lighter than the standard.

[0212] The inventors thus highlight the lightness of the composition according to the invention Inv 1, almost twice as light as another oil-in-water emulsion available commercially also in the solar field.

[0213] 6 / Example 6 - Sun protection effectiveness

[0214] The evaluation of the photoprotection provided by the composition according to example 1 Inv 1 was carried out according to the ISO 24444 standard "Sun protection test methods - In vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) 2019".

[0215] This evaluation was conducted on 10 subjects (male and female, aged 24 to 58 years, mean age: 43 years). The composition was applied to the dorsal infrascapular area. The area was irradiated with a controlled dose of ultraviolet radiation and then evaluated between 16 and 24 hours post-irradiation.

[0216] The average SPF thus obtained is between 50 and 60.

[0217] The composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to ensure very good protection (SPF > 50) with only the 3 UV filters: Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone.

[0218] In conclusion, based on all the above results, the inventors have clearly demonstrated that the cosmetic composition according to the invention, effective in terms of sun protection, also provides the benefits sought by the invention in terms of texture and sensory experience, and, in particular:

[0219] - is capable of being absorbed very quickly into the skin, even faster than two sunscreens that claim to absorb quickly,

[0220] - has an ultra-light texture,

[0221] - is virtually invisible after application (without white residue),

[0222] - leaves no sticky residue on the skin,

[0223] - and provides a feeling of freshness on the skin. 7 / Example 7 - Comparative stability and texture evaluation tests

[0224] One composition A conforming to the invention and two compositions not conforming to the invention (B and C) were tested for their stability and texture properties. The stability study of these three compositions focused on their visual appearance. Indeed, the visual appearance allows for an assessment of the composition's homogeneity. This test was carried out by a person trained in this type of exercise, after the compositions had been stored for two months.

[0225] For texture assessment, 0.1 ml of each composition was applied to the back of the hand. Various criteria were then evaluated, such as skin penetration, oily appearance, stickiness, and leaving white residue after absorption.

[0226] The formulas of the compositions tested, and the results obtained, are shown in Table 6. The mixture of the 3 sunscreens includes the following filters: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate. compositions conforming to invention A and compositions not conforming to inventions B and C

[0227] Composition A appears stable and has a texture that meets all the evaluated criteria, including a pleasant feel and no sticky effect. Composition B (containing xanthan gum instead of scleroglucan gum) also appears stable, but has a non-compliant texture and a pronounced sticky effect, making this composition unsatisfactory.

[0228] Composition C, containing only 0.5% myristyl glucoside, does not allow for a stable composition (a phase shift is observed).

[0229] Thus, a concentration of more than 0.5% of myristyl glucoside and the presence of scleroglucan gum are the prerequisites for obtaining a stable composition and with a texture meeting all the criteria targeted by the invention.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Cosmetic sun protection composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: - water, - at least one oily emollient, - a blend of oil-soluble organic sunscreens, - an emulsifying system containing at least myristyl glucoside, - and scleroglucan gum, said composition being characterized in that the content of said mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens in said composition is between 10 and 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, myristyl glucoside is included in the composition in a content greater than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in that, when the emulsifying system contains at least one other emulsifying agent, myristyl glucoside represents at least 40% by weight of the total weight of said emulsifying system.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the mixture of fat-soluble organic sunscreens comprises at least one fat-soluble organic sunscreen selected from diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of emulsifying agent(s) other than myristyl glucoside of said emulsifying system is less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, containing at most four emulsifying agents.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the scleroglucan gum content is between 0.1 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which lacks a particulate sunscreen.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, not comprising octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), octyl dimethyl PABA, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3 and / or benzophenone-4.

8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein said at least one liquid lipophilic emollient is selected from C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate, coco-caprylate / caprate, diisopropyl sebacate, diethylhexyl succinate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, propylheptyl caprylate, phenethyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, octyldodecanol, and propylene glycol. dicaprylate / dicaprate and dicaprylyl ether.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which contains from 0.01 to 1% by weight of glycerin relative to the total weight of the composition, or is devoid of glycerin.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising at least one cosmetically active agent for topical use for skin care and / or hygiene.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, wherein a cosmetically active agent is hyaluronic acid or at least one of its salts.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, for use for sun protection of the skin and / or hair of a subject, wherein said composition is applied topically to said skin and / or hair.

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