External element or dial for timepiece or jewelry made of electrically conductive material

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a timepiece part made of an electrically conductive material, said method comprising:-a base (1) made of an electrically conductive material; -the base is coated with a first layer (2; 21; 22); etching the depressed decoration (3) mechanically or by means of a laser; -a first recessed decoration (3) and the first layer (2; 21; 22) is coated with a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer (4; 41; 42); -removing each first sacrificial metal protective layer (2; 21; 22) in order to obtain a second layer (4; 41; 42) of the first decorative blank (10).

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing an external element or dial for a timepiece or jewellery made of an electrically conductive material.

[0002] The invention also relates to a watch comprising an exterior element and / or a dial made by this method.

[0003] The invention relates to the field of exterior or display parts for timepieces, and to the field of jewellery. Background Art

[0004] To make two-color parts, there are known methods, including:

[0005] - placing a sacrificial protective layer (photosensitive resin, varnish, adhesive, polymer film) over the entire surface of the blank;

[0006] - selectively etching the protective layer and possibly the substrate;

[0007] - Carry out decorative treatment (electroplating, vacuum deposition, varnish, lacquer);

[0008] - Removal of protective layers (chemical etching, dissolution, ion bombardment, mechanical action).

[0009] Unless you use photosensitive resin, the definition of the outline is not very good.

[0010] Furthermore, the material of the sacrificial protective layer may exhibit outgassing phenomena during any subsequent vacuum treatment, in particular in order to carry out a decorative treatment by a metallization process.

[0011] Japanese Patent Application No. H05156425A in the name of SEIKO EPSON Corp. discloses forming hollow letters, or more generally, patterns, coated with a colored film on the surface of a base material such as a sintered hard alloy, a platinum or platinum alloy, or a ceramic by a dry film forming process. The surface of the material is coated with a colored film as a first layer, a hollow pattern having a depth greater than the thickness of the first layer is formed on the part involved by laser beam processing, a colored film having a composition different from that of the first layer is applied as a second layer by the dry film forming process, and then the first and second layers outside the area including the pattern are removed.

[0012] JP Patent No. H04160154 in the name of SEIKO discloses an economical method for producing a decorative element having both decorative quality and stable quality by masking the surface of a stainless steel decorative element, processing a designated part with a laser beam to form a recessed pattern, and then forming a gray / black coating in the form of a film, particularly by ion plating. The masking film is then removed by etching. Thus, a recessed gray / black pattern or feature is effectively formed with stable quality.

[0013] JP Patent No. H04136188 in the name of SEIKO discloses how to decorate recessed gold characters with high quality and efficiency by coating the surface of a stainless steel decorative element with a titanium-based film by ion plating, forming recessed characters on a desired part by laser beam machining, and then performing gold plating by electroplating, followed by removing the film by etching.

[0014] EP Patent No. 3181006 in the name of THE SWATCH GROUP RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT Ltd discloses an external element made of a first ceramic material having a first color, the surface of which has been at least partially treated so that it undergoes a transition to at least one color different from the first color.

[0015] EP Patent No. 3336614 in the name of RUBATTEL AND WEYERMANN discloses a method for manufacturing an external element or a timepiece dial from a non-conductive material, wherein a basic cycle comprising the following steps is performed at least once:

[0016] - The base is made of a non-conductive, or ceramic, or glass or sapphire substrate,

[0017] - dry coating the base with at least a first sacrificial metal protective layer;

[0018] - etching the decoration by means of an ultrashort pulse laser of the picosecond laser or femtosecond laser type to a depth at least equal to the local thickness of the first sacrificial metal protective layer;

[0019] - dry coating the decoration and the remaining part of the first sacrificial metal protective layer with at least a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer;

[0020] - Chemically removing each first sacrificial metal protective layer.

[0021] EP Patent Application No. 3067220A1 in the name of ROLEX discloses a method for decorating a timepiece component having a deep etching of a surface of the component to be decorated using a femtosecond laser and a surface constituting the surface of the timepiece component to be decorated, the two decorations at least partially overlapping each other. Summary of the invention

[0022] The present invention proposes to develop a method for manufacturing an external element or dial for a timepiece or jewellery made of a conductive material, in particular ceramic or the like, in order to obtain a metallized and / or coloured etched decoration.

[0023] To this end, the invention relates to a method as claimed in claim 1 .

[0024] The invention also relates to a watch comprising an exterior element and / or a dial made by this method.

[0025] The proposed process makes it possible to obtain high-definition decoration on conductive substrates.

[0026] Furthermore, the present invention avoids the use of organic protective layers which may exhibit outgassing during subsequent vacuum metallization processes.

[0027] Finally, the solution provided does not require acquisition of expensive lithography equipment (spin coaters, photolithography machines, photolithography booths) and can be performed using common mechanical etching equipment or more specifically laser etching equipment. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0028] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent by reading the following detailed description with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0029] - Figure 1 Schematic cross-sectional view showing the sequence of operations of a basic cycle of the method of the present invention, including manufacturing a base, coating the base with a first sacrificial metal protective layer, etching the decoration, depositing a second decorative metal and / or color treatment layer, and removing the first sacrificial metal protective layer.

[0030] - Figure 2 With Figure 1 A similar approach is shown for a single etching step where all etching reaches the substrate of the pedestal.

[0031] - Figure 3 With Figure 1 In a similar manner the optional step of mechanically leveling the first sacrificial metal protection layer and the second decorative finish layer prior to removing the first sacrificial metal protection layer is represented.

[0032] - Figure 4 With Figure 3 The optional step of mechanically leveling the second decorative finish layer after removal of the first sacrificial metal protective layer is represented in a similar manner.

[0033] - Figure 5 With Figure 1 A similar approach is shown for a single step of depositing a first sacrificial metal protection layer having two superimposed sacrificial metal protection layers.

[0034] - Figure 6 With Figure 1 A similar approach represents a single step for depositing a second metallic and / or coloured decorative treatment layer with two superimposed decorative treatment layers.

[0035] - Figure 7 Represents etch details including single or stacked conical etches, and single or stacked pyramidal etches.

[0036] - Figure 8 With Figure 1 A sequence of nine operations for producing a part comprising two different decorations is represented in a similar manner, wherein, in the first five operations, Figure 1 The blanks are manufactured in sequence and are then coated, here in a particular variant first with a layer deposited in a drying process, then with a layer deposited in an electrolytic or electroplating process, then a second hollow etching is carried out before the whole is coated with a surface layer, and the sacrificial metal protective layer is then removed to reveal the decoration.

[0037] - Fig. 9 With Figure 1 A similar way of expressing Figure 8 A variation of a second hollow etch in which the etch is made with straight edges.

[0038] - Fig.10 With Figure 1 A similar way of expressing Fig. 9 A variation of this in which the final surface is leveled or polished.

[0039] - Fig.11 It refers to a watch comprising a bezel and a dial made of ceramic, produced and decorated by the method of the invention.

[0040] Specific method

[0041] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a timepiece component made of electrically conductive material, in particular an external element or a dial, in which a basic cycle is carried out at least once and comprises, in this order, the following steps:

[0042] - In an initial step 100 , the base 1 is produced from a substrate made of a conductive material, which may be metal or ceramic or organic or composite material, defining an upper layer 101 of the base 1 ;

[0043] - coating the substrate 1 with at least a first layer 2 of a first sacrificial metallic protective material in a first coating operation 200 , in particular but not exclusively in a drying process;

[0044] - in a first etching operation 300 , the first recessed decoration 3 is etched mechanically or with the aid of an ultrashort pulse laser of the picosecond laser or femtosecond laser type to a depth at least equal to the local thickness of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 ;

[0045] - coating the first recessed decoration 3 and the remaining part of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 with at least a second layer 4 of a second metallic decorative treatment and / or coloured decorative treatment material in a second coating operation 400 , in particular but not exclusively in a drying process, to form a first intermediate compound 5 ;

[0046] - In a first chemical removal operation 500 , each first sacrificial metallic protective layer 2 is removed, in particular by a chemical method, to obtain a first blank 10 comprising a first decoration formed by the remaining portion of the second layer 4 , and to manufacture a timepiece component directly in the form of the first blank 10 or by finishing the first blank 10 .

[0047] More specifically, during the first coating operation 200, the coating is applied with a first thickness greater than 50 nanometers.

[0048] In a variant, during the first coating operation 200, the susceptor 1 is dry-coated with at least a first sacrificial metal protective layer 2. More particularly, the first dry coating is applied by PVD or CVD or ALD vacuum deposition.

[0049] In another variant, during the first coating operation 200 , the substrate 1 is coated with at least a first sacrificial metal protective layer 2 by an electrolytic or electrochemical method.

[0050] More particularly, during the second coating operation 400 of coating with at least a second metallic and / or coloured decorative treatment layer 4, the coating is applied with a second thickness comprised between 50 and 1000 nanometres.

[0051] In a variant, during the second coating operation 400, the base 1 is dry-coated with at least a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer 4. More particularly, the second dry coating operation 400 is applied by PVD or CVD or ALD vacuum deposition.

[0052] In another variant, during the second coating operation 400 , the base 1 is coated with at least a second metallic and / or coloured decorative treatment layer 4 by an electrolytic or electrochemical method.

[0053] In particular, during the operation 300 of etching the first recessed decoration 3 , etching is carried out everywhere down to the substrate of the base 1 .

[0054] More particularly, during the first coating operation 200, the first coating is applied with a first thickness greater than or equal to the difference between, on the one hand, the second thickness of the second metal and / or colored decorative treatment layer 4 to be applied during step 4 of coating the first recessed decoration 3 and the remaining part of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2, and, on the other hand, the etching depth in the substrate of the base 1 during the operation 300 of etching the first recessed decoration 3.

[0055] More particularly, during etching operation 300, etching is performed to form a juxtaposition of deep conical or pyramidal recesses.

[0056] More specifically, during etching operation 300 , etching is carried out in pedestal 1 to a depth between 20 nanometers and the total thickness of pedestal 1 .

[0057] In a variant, during the first coating operation 200 , the coating is applied by superposition of several first layers 2 , 21 , 22 of different types, at least partially in a dry process, or entirely in a dry process.

[0058] In another variant, during the first coating operation 200 , the coating is applied at least partially or entirely by electrolytic or electrochemical methods, by superposition of several first layers 2 , 21 , 22 of different types.

[0059] In yet another variation, some of the layers are deposited in a dry process and some other layers are deposited by electrolytic or electrochemical methods.

[0060] In certain variations, such as Figure 6 As shown in the step 400 of coating the recessed decoration 3 and the remaining part of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 with at least a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer 4 , the coating is applied by superposition of several second layers 4 of different types 41 , 42 .

[0061] In a variant, during the second coating operation 400 , the coating is applied by superposition of several second layers 4 , 41 , 42 of different types, at least partially in a dry process, or entirely in a dry process.

[0062] In another variant, during the second coating operation 400 , the coating is applied at least partially or entirely by electrolytic or electrochemical methods, by superposition of several second layers 4 , 41 , 42 of different types.

[0063] In yet another variation, some of the layers are deposited in a dry process and some other layers are deposited by electrolytic or electrochemical methods.

[0064] More particularly, several second layers 4, 41, 42 are stacked with at least 50 nm to 250 nm chromium layer 41 and 50 nm to 150 nm gold layer 42. More particularly, a chromium layer of about 200 nm thick and a gold layer of about 100 nm thick are deposited in a stacked manner.

[0065] Figure 1 A variant 410 is shown, which is more difficult to implement, in which operation 400 is modified by depositing a second finishing layer level with a first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 .

[0066] For the specific application of manufacturing a conductive, metallized and / or colored etched watch dial, an advantageous operating sequence of the invention includes specific parameters:

[0067] - 200: Deposition of a sacrificial metal protective layer: preferably, but not exclusively, aluminum, or chromium or copper. The sacrificial metal protective layer can be produced in a dry process, more particularly by PVD, CVD, ALD or similar methods; it can also be produced by electrolysis or electrochemistry or other methods.

[0068] -300: laser etching of the decoration with an ultrashort pulse laser (picosecond or femtosecond laser type) or a nanosecond laser or at the other extreme an attosecond laser, wherein the sacrificial metal protection layer 2 is selectively ablated and the substrate 1 is possibly etched, called under-etching GI, as shown in the figure;

[0069] - 400: Decorative metal (gold, rhodium, chromium, silicon or other) or colored (oxides, such as silicon dioxide, or corundum or other, metal nitrides and carbides and any layer combination thereof) treatment in a dry process, more particularly PVD, CVD, ALD or similar methods, or produced by electrolytic or electrochemical treatment or other methods;

[0070] -500: Removal of the protective layer by chemical means (for aluminium, an alkaline solution of the NaOH type, but for chromium or others, also possible acids).

[0071] The choice of materials is directly limited by the constraints of the order of operations.

[0072] In practice, the properties of each sacrificial layer and the properties of each decorative layer must be chosen such that:

[0073] - Stripping solutions remove protective layers without deteriorating the decorative coating;

[0074] - the protective layer is not degraded during etching, in particular during laser etching (particularly but not exclusively, ultrashort pulse lasers of the picosecond or femtosecond laser type, but also nanosecond lasers or others), outside the defined etching area (degradation is possible in the vicinity of the etching, projections of incandescent particles);

[0075] - The protective layer must resist any intermediate cleaning operations.

[0076] The choice of the sacrificial metal protective layer in step 200 avoids any degassing. In fact, this sacrificial metal protective layer is composed of a material that is resistant to the pressure encountered during the decoration process in step 400 (which can be as low as P = 1.10 -8 mbar) and temperature (typically T≤300°C), unlike the varnishes / lacquers used in the prior art which have the disadvantages of outgassing and / or partial decomposition under these conditions, which would impair the quality and / or aesthetics of the decorative treatment.

[0077] Preferably, before carrying out the step 200 of coating the base 1 with at least the first sacrificial metal protective layer 2, a cleaning operation is performed: using detergents and / or solvents, with / without ultrasound, with / without mechanical stress, with / without temperature, to ensure surface cleanliness and thus ensure good adhesion of the sacrificial metal protective layer.

[0078] In a particular variant, during the operation 300 of etching the recessed decoration 3, etching is carried out at various locations in the substrate of the base 1, such as Figure 2 as shown in .

[0079] Naturally, the blank should be cleaned after the etching operation before a second deposition of the decorative treatment material, in particular by PVD or CVD or ALD. This is a conventional cleaning operation (using detergents and / or solvents, with / without ultrasound, with / without mechanical stress, with / without temperature), but it must not deteriorate the sacrificial metal protection. In particular, in the case where the sacrificial metal protection comprises aluminum, cleaning solutions with a pH value that is too alkaline must be excluded.

[0080] In a variant of the invention, before or after the chemical removal of each first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 (in step 500 ), the compound thus formed on the upper layer of the base 1 is mechanically leveled (in step 550 ).

[0081] In a particular variant, after the coating step 40 , in which the recessed decoration 3 and the remaining part of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 are coated with at least a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer 4 , the compound thus formed on the upper layer of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 is mechanically leveled in a step 450 .

[0082] In another particular variant, before the chemical removal 500 of each first sacrificial metallic protection layer 2 , the compound thus formed on the upper layer of the base 1 is mechanically leveled in a step 550 .

[0083] In another particular variant, after the chemical removal 500 of each first sacrificial metallic protection layer 2 , the compound thus formed on the upper layer of the base 1 is mechanically leveled in a step 550 .

[0084] In a variant, in the step 200 of coating the base 1 with at least the first sacrificial metal protective layer 2, the dry coating is applied by PVD or CVD or ALD vacuum deposition; various methods may also be suitable: vacuum evaporation, vacuum sputtering, PECVD or others. In another variant, the coating is applied by electrolysis or electrochemical methods.

[0085] In a particular variant, during the step 200 of coating the support 1 with at least a first sacrificial metal protective layer 2 , this coating is applied with a first thickness greater than 50 nanometers.

[0086] In an advantageous variant, in the step 400 of coating the recessed decoration 3 and the remainder of the first sacrificial metal protective layer 2 with at least a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer 4, this coating can be applied in a dry process, in particular by PVD vacuum deposition (different methods may be suitable: vacuum evaporation, vacuum sputtering, CVD, ALD or others), or by electrolytic or electrochemical methods.

[0087] More particularly, in step 400 of coating the recessed decoration 3 and the remainder of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 with at least a second metallic and / or coloured decorative treatment layer 4, the coating is applied with a second thickness comprised between 50 and 2000 nanometres, more particularly between 50 and 1000 nanometres.

[0088] Preferably, in the step 200 of coating the base 1 with at least a first sacrificial metal protective layer 2, the coating is applied with a first thickness that is greater than or equal to the difference between, on the one hand, the second thickness of the second metal and / or colored decorative treatment layer 4 during the step 400 of coating the first recessed decoration 3 and the remainder of said first sacrificial metal protective layer 2, and, on the other hand, the etching depth in the substrate of the base 1 during the operation 30 of etching the recessed decoration 3.

[0089] In an advantageous variant, in the step 30 of etching the recessed decoration 3 to a depth at least equal to the local thickness of the first sacrificial metallic protection layer 2 , the etching is carried out mechanically or by means of a laser, in particular a nanosecond, picosecond or femtosecond laser.

[0090] As an alternative to the present invention, in a similar process, the etching can be carried out by different means alone or in combination: laser, tool processing, ion bombardment, chemical etching, etc.

[0091] In a particular variant, in the step 300 of etching the recessed decoration 3 to a depth at least equal to the local thickness of the first sacrificial metal protection layer 2 , etching is carried out to form a juxtaposition of deep conical or pyramidal recesses.

[0092] More particularly, this etching 300 is carried out in pedestal 1 to a depth comprised between 20 nanometers and the total thickness of pedestal 1 .

[0093] Thus, for example, a very deep conical depression can be formed over the entire thickness of the dial, for example over a thickness of the order of millimeters.

[0094] More particularly, for other applications, particularly display applications, substantially planar laser etching is performed to a depth of about 20 μm.

[0095] In another variation, deeper laser etching is performed, for example to define a recessed or beveled date hole or the like. The present invention can produce very fine, two-tone, beveled holes that are extremely difficult to produce by other methods.

[0096] In certain variations, such as Figure 5 As shown in FIG. 2 , in the step 200 of coating the base 1 with at least a first sacrificial metal protective layer 2 , the coating is applied by superposition of several first layers 2 of different types 21 , 22 .

[0097] A wide selection of materials can be used:

[0098] -For the conductive substrate, many different materials can be used;

[0099] - For sacrificial metal protection, such as aluminum or chrome:

[0100] For sacrificial metal protection including aluminum, the decorative treatment may include: Au, Cr, Rh, Ti, Si and / or alloys and / or oxides and / or nitrides and / or carbides and / or combinations of these metals;

[0101] For sacrificial metal protection including chromium, the decorative treatment may include: Au, Rh, Ti, Si and / or alloys and / or oxides and / or nitrides and / or carbides and / or combinations of these metals;

[0102] In a variant, after the first chemical removal operation 500, in a third coating operation 600, the first blank 10 is coated with at least a surface layer 7 of the first sacrificial metallic protection material or another sacrificial metallic protection material in an electroplating process. However, the electroplating process must be applied to an electrically conductive substrate.

[0103] In another variant, after the first chemical removal operation 500, the first blank 10 is coated with at least a third layer 6 of a first sacrificial metallic protection material or a further sacrificial metallic protection material in a third coating operation 600 in a dry process, more particularly by PVD, CVD, ALD or similar methods. This coating mode is independent of the nature of the substrate.

[0104] In yet another variant, during the coating operation 600, once this third layer 6 has been formed, the third layer 6 is then coated in an electroplating process with at least a surface layer 7 of a first sacrificial metal protection material, or of a sacrificial metal protection material of the third layer 6, or of another sacrificial metal protection material. The choice of a conductive third layer 6 makes it possible to apply an electroplating method for forming the surface layer 7. There is nothing to prevent the material of the third layer 6 from being the same as that of the surface layer 7, for example copper.

[0105] More particularly, after the third coating operation 600 , a second etching operation 700 is carried out in which the second recessed decoration 8 is etched mechanically or by means of a laser to a depth at least equal to the combined thickness of the layers deposited on the first blank 10 during the third coating operation 600 , so as to produce a second intermediate compound 15 .

[0106] More specifically, after this second etching operation 700 , a fourth coating operation 800 is performed during which the outermost surface of the second recessed decoration 8 and the second intermediate compound 15 is coated with at least a fifth layer 9 of a fifth metal and / or colored decorative treatment material to obtain a third intermediate compound 16 .

[0107] More particularly, after this fourth coating operation 800, a second chemical removal operation 900 is carried out, in which each sacrificial metal protective layer is removed by a chemical method to obtain a second blank 20 including a first decoration formed by the remaining part of the second layer 4 and a second decoration formed by the remaining part of the fifth layer 9, and the timepiece component is made directly in the form of this second blank 20, or by finishing the second blank 20.

[0108] More particularly, at least a sixth metal decorative treatment and / or a colored decorative treatment material is selected, and in order to make the blank have the same sacrificial metal protection material or other similar sacrificial metal protection materials, the sequence of the third coating operation 600, the second etching operation 700, the fourth coating operation 800 and the second chemical removal operation 900 is repeated to produce at least one other decoration in addition to the first decoration and the second decoration.

[0109] More specifically, after the fourth coating operation 800 and before the second chemical removal operation 900 , an intermediate etching operation 810 is performed during which the third recessed decoration 81 is etched mechanically or by means of a laser.

[0110] More specifically, before or after the operation of chemically removing the sacrificial metal protective layer, a mechanical leveling operation 550 or 910 is carried out, during which the compound thus formed is mechanically leveled on or below the upper layer 101 of the base 1 to form a decorative visible surface on the upper layer 411 of the remainder of the part. Thus, after completion of the first elementary cycle and cleaning, at least one other elementary cycle is carried out with modified parameters for the etching operation and / or for the selected decorative treatment.

[0111] The present invention is particularly suitable for the preferred case where, in step 100 of manufacturing the base 1, a ceramic substrate is used.

[0112] More particularly, at least one sacrificial metal protection material is used, which is copper or aluminum or gold or platinum.

[0113] More particularly, the timepiece component is produced to form an exterior element or a dial.

[0114] More particularly, the method according to the invention is therefore well suited for making external elements for timepieces or jewellery, such as cases, bezels, flanges or dials, or jewellery parts, such as bracelets or elements of jewellery, made of electrically conductive material, in particular ceramic or the like, making it possible to obtain a metallised and / or coloured etched decoration.

[0115] The invention makes it possible to manufacture parts in two or more colors.

[0116] In practice, the method can be repeated using different etch finishes and / or different finish treatments.

[0117] Thus, after executing phase 500 and completing the first elementary cycle, and after cleaning, at least one other elementary cycle may be performed with modified parameters for the etching operation and / or for the selected decoration process.

[0118] Thus, the entire sequence of operations of the basic loop can be restarted with modified parameters without limiting the number of repetitions:

[0119] -Deposition of sacrificial metal protection;

[0120] - etching another decoration, for example elsewhere on the substrate and / or partly on an etching already carried out at a previous stage;

[0121] - depositing another decorative treatment;

[0122] Dissolved sacrificial metal protection.

[0123] This cycle can be repeated several times to obtain multi-color parts, for example, parts with different appearances made of Au, Ti, Si, Rh or other materials.

[0124] A particular etch texture may also provide a particular visual appearance depending on the roughness, density and etch depth to create reflections, or the particular finish of the decorative treatment applied, such as satin, semi-matte, glossy or other.

[0125] The invention also relates to a watch 1000 comprising an external element 110 such as a bezel, a case or the like, in particular made of ceramic, and / or comprising a dial 120 , in particular made of ceramic, made by the method according to the invention.

[0126] The process avoids the use of expensive photolithography equipment to achieve very high-definition decoration.

[0127] Furthermore, the use of a sacrificial metal protective layer avoids any outgassing problems during the preferred vacuum process for applying the metal and / or colored decorative finishing layer.

[0128] The invention is well suited for decorating conductive dials, conductive watch glasses, conductive parts such as watch cases, case middles, bezels, crowns and others. The quality, dexterity and contrast of the decoration that can be made from precious metals allow for highly refined decorations, compatible with luxury watches, especially the decoration of complex elements such as, for example, high-resolution moon phase indicators. The reasonable cost of implementing the method also permits its use in more widely used timepiece parts.

[0129] Naturally, the invention is advantageous not only for timepieces or jewelry parts, but also for jewelry or jewelry parts or spectacles or fashion items.

[0130] In fact, the invention makes it possible to modify and substantially enhance the appearance of components directly visible to the user by means of innovative decorations and contributes to the promotion of brands and products.More particularly, the invention can be used for identification marks and / or anti-counterfeiting marks.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing a timepiece component made of an electrically conductive material, in particular an external element or a dial, wherein at least one basic cycle is carried out comprising, in this order, the following steps: - In an initial step (100), the base (1) is produced from a substrate made of an electrically conductive material, said electrically conductive material being a ceramic, defining an upper layer (101) of said base (1); - coating the base (1) with at least a first layer (2; 21; 22) of a first sacrificial metallic protective material in a first coating operation (200); - in a second etching operation (300), etching the first recessed decoration (3) mechanically or with the aid of an ultrashort pulse laser of the picosecond laser or femtosecond laser type to a depth at least equal to the local thickness of the first sacrificial metal protection layer (2; 21; 22); - coating said first recessed decoration (3) and said remaining part of said first sacrificial metal protective layer (2; 21; 22) with at least a second layer (4; 41; 42) of a second metallic decorative treatment and / or coloured decorative treatment material in a second coating operation (400) to form a first intermediate compound (5); - in a first chemical removal operation (500), chemically removing each of said first sacrificial metal protective layers (2; 21; 22) so as to obtain a first blank (10) comprising a first decoration formed by the remaining portion of said second layer (4; 41; 42); - and manufacturing said timepiece component directly in the form of said first blank (10) or by finishing said first blank (10), Features: - during said first coating operation (200) or respectively during said second coating operation (400), said coating is applied at least partly in a dry process or at least partly by electrolytic or electrochemical methods, by superposition of several said first layers (2; 21; 22) or respectively of several said second layers (4; 41; 42) of different types; - or after said first chemical removal operation (500), in a third coating operation (600), coating said first blank (10) with at least a surface layer (7) of said first sacrificial metal protection material or of another sacrificial metal protection material in an electroplating process, or coating said first blank (10) with at least a third layer (6) of said first sacrificial metal protection material or of another sacrificial metal protection material in a drying process; - either simultaneously during the first coating operation (200) or respectively during the second coating operation (400), the coating is applied at least partially in a dry process or at least partially by electrolysis or electrochemical methods by superposition of several first layers (2; 21; 22) or respectively superposition of several second layers (4; 41; 42) of different types, and after the first chemical removal operation (500), in a third coating operation (600), the first blank (10) is coated with at least a surface layer (7) of the first sacrificial metal protective material or of another sacrificial metal protective material in an electroplating process or with at least a third layer (6) of the first sacrificial metal protective material or of another sacrificial metal protective material in a dry process; After the first chemical removal operation (500), in a third coating operation (600), the first blank (10) is coated with at least a surface layer (7) of the first sacrificial metal protection material or another sacrificial metal protection material in an electroplating process; After said third coating operation (600), a second etching operation (700) is performed, in which a second recessed decoration (8) is etched mechanically or by means of a laser to a depth at least equal to the combined thickness of the layers deposited on said first blank (10) during said third coating operation (600), in order to produce a second intermediate compound (15); After the second etching operation (700), a fourth coating operation (800) is performed, during which the outermost surfaces of the second recessed decoration (8) and the second intermediate compound (15) are coated with at least a fifth layer (9) of a fifth metal decorative treatment and / or a colored decorative treatment material; After the fourth coating operation (800), a second chemical removal operation (900) is performed, through which each sacrificial metal protective layer is removed by a chemical method to obtain a second blank (20) including the first decoration formed by the remaining part of the second layer (4; 41; 42) and the second decoration formed by the remaining part of the fifth layer (9).

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During the first coating operation (200), the coating is applied with a first thickness greater than 50 nanometers.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During said first coating operation (200), said substrate (1) is dry-coated with at least one said first sacrificial metal protective layer (2; 21; 22).

4. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that The first dry coating is applied by PVD or CVD or ALD vacuum deposition.

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During said first coating operation (200), said substrate (1) is coated with at least one said first sacrificial metal protective layer (2; 21; 22) by an electrolytic or electrochemical method.

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During said second coating operation (400) of coating with at least a second metallic and / or coloured decorative treatment layer (4; 41; 42), said coating is applied with a second thickness comprised between 50 and 1000 nanometres.

7. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During the second coating operation (400), the base (1) is dry-coated with at least the second metallic decorative treatment and / or colored decorative treatment layer (4; 41; 42).

8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that The second dry coating operation (400) is performed by PVD, CVD or ALD vacuum deposition.

9. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During said second coating operation (400), said substrate (1) is coated with at least one said second metallic and / or coloured decorative treatment layer (4; 41; 42) by electrolytic or electrochemical methods.

10. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During the operation (300) of etching the first recessed decoration (3), the etching is carried out everywhere down to the substrate of the base (1).

11. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During said first coating operation (200), a second metallic and / or colored decorative treatment layer (4; 41; 42), and on the other hand applying said first coating at a first thickness of the difference between said etching depths in said substrate of said base (1) during said operation (300) of etching a first recessed decoration (3).

12. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During the etching operation (300), the etching is performed to form a juxtaposition of deep conical or pyramidal recesses.

13. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that During said etching operation (300), said etching is carried out in said pedestal (1) to a depth comprised between 20 nanometers and the total thickness of said pedestal (1).

14. The method according to claim 1, wherein: During said first coating operation (200), said coating is applied by said superposition of several first layers (2; 21; 22) of different types, at least partially in a dry process, or entirely in a dry process.

15. The method according to claim 1, wherein: During said first coating operation (200), said coating is applied at least partially or entirely by electrolytic or electrochemical methods, by said superposition of several different types of said first layers (2; 21; 22).

16. The method according to claim 1, wherein: During said second coating operation (400), said coating is applied, at least partially in a dry process, or entirely in a dry process, by said superposition of several different types of said second layers (4; 41; 42).

17. The method according to claim 1, wherein: During said second coating operation (400), said coating is applied at least partially or entirely by electrolytic or electrochemical methods, by said superposition of several different types of said second layers (4; 41; 42).

18. The method according to claim 16, characterized in that Said superposition of several said second layers (4; 41; 42) is carried out using at least a chromium layer (41) of 50 nm to 250 nm and a gold layer (42) of 50 nm to 150 nm.

19. The method according to claim 16, characterized in that Said superposition of several said second layers (4; 41; 42) is carried out using at least a chromium layer (41) of 50 nm to 250 nm and a gold layer (42) of 50 nm to 150 nm.

20. The method of claim 1, wherein: After the first chemical removal operation (500), in a third coating operation (600), the first blank (10) is coated with at least a third layer (6) of the first sacrificial metallic protective material or another sacrificial metallic protective material in a dry process.

21. The method of claim 20, wherein: During the coating operation (600), after the third layer (6) is generated, the third layer (6) is then coated with the first sacrificial metal protective material, or the sacrificial metal protective material of the third layer (6), or at least a surface layer (7) of another sacrificial metal protective material in an electroplating process.

22. The method of claim 1, wherein: The timepiece component is manufactured directly from the second blank (20) or by finishing the second blank (20).

23. The method of claim 22, wherein: At least a sixth metal decorative treatment and / or colored decorative treatment material is selected, and is characterized in that the sequence of the third coating operation (600), the second etching operation (700), the fourth coating operation (800) and the second chemical removal operation (900) is repeatedly combined with the same sacrificial metal protection material or other similar sacrificial metal protection materials to produce at least one other decoration in addition to the first decoration and the second decoration.

24. The method of claim 1, wherein: After said fourth coating operation (800) and before said second chemical removal operation (900), an intermediate etching operation (810) is carried out, during which a third recessed decoration (81) is etched mechanically or with the aid of a laser.

25. The method of claim 1, wherein: Before or after the operation of chemically removing the sacrificial metal protective layer, a mechanical leveling operation (550; 910) is carried out, during which the compound thus formed is mechanically leveled above the upper layer (101) of the base (1) or below the upper layer (101) to form a decorative visible surface on the upper layer (411) of the remaining part of the component.

26. The method of claim 1, wherein: After completion of the first of said elementary cycles and the cleaning operation, at least one of said elementary cycles is performed with modified parameters for said etching operation and / or for selecting said decoration process.

27. The method of claim 1, wherein: At least one sacrificial metal protection material is used, which is copper or aluminum or gold or platinum.

28. The method of claim 1, wherein: The timepiece components are fabricated to form an exterior element or dial.

29. Watch (1000) comprising at least one timepiece component (100) produced by the method according to claim 1.

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