Process for dyeing keratin materials using a premix of aminosilicone and a coloring compound
By mixing aminofunctional silicone polymer and coloring compound with a low water content fat carrier formulation, ready-to-use coloring agent is prepared, which solves the problem of insufficient color strength and feel of keratin fibers, and achieves a strong and lasting color effect and a good hair feeling.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202080065985.X
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2019-09-23
- Filing Date
- 2020-08-31
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-06
- Estimated Expiration
- 2040-08-31
AI Technical Summary
The prior art has shortcomings in optimizing the color strength and feel of keratin fibers, especially in the difficulty in obtaining a lasting color effect and a good hair feel at the same time.
A ready-to-use colorant is prepared and applied to the keratin material by mixing the agent (a) containing the aminofunctional silicone polymer and the coloring compound with the fat carrier formulation agent (b) with a low water content.
It achieves a strong and lasting color effect on keratin materials, while improving the grip of hair, providing a better user experience.
Smart Images

Figure QLYQS_1 
Figure QLYQS_2 
Figure GDA0005047662720000041
Abstract
Description
[0001] The subject of the present application is a method for dyeing keratin materials, in particular human hair, which comprises applying at least two different agents (a) and (b). The agent (a) is a premix or concentrate comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) and at least one coloring compound (a2). The agent (b) is a carrier formulation comprising at least one fatty component (b1) and is characterized by a reduced water content. Prior to application, an application mixture is prepared by mixing the agents (a) and (b), applied to the keratin material, allowed to act and washed off again.
[0002] A second subject matter of the present application is a multi-component packaging unit (kit) for coloring keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising the agents (a) and (b) respectively packaged in two different containers.
[0003] A third subject of the present application is a ready-to-use colorant obtained by mixing the two agents (a) and (b).
[0004] Changing the shape and color of keratin materials, especially human hair, is a key area of modern cosmetics. To change the color of hair, experts are familiar with various coloring systems depending on the coloring requirements. Oxidation dyes are generally used for long-lasting, strong coloring with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components, and coupler components, which form the actual dye with one another under the action of an oxidizing agent, for example hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
[0005] When direct dyes are used, the ready-made dye diffuses from the colorant into the hair fiber. The dyeings obtained with direct dyes have a shorter shelf life and faster washability than oxidative hair dyeings. Dyeings with direct dyes usually remain on the hair for a time of 5 to 20 washes.
[0006] It is known to use color pigments to produce short-term color changes on hair and / or skin. Color pigments are understood to be insoluble coloring substances. These substances are present in the dye formulation in the form of small particles without dissolution and are only deposited on the hair fiber and / or skin surface from the outside. Therefore, they can usually be removed again without residue by washing several times with a detergent containing a surfactant. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name hair mascara.
[0007] The advantage of cream hair dye products is that the colorant compounds, such as pigments, are deposited only in the form of a film on the surface of the keratin fibers. Therefore, the properties of the keratin fibers themselves are not changed during the application of the product, so that particularly low hair damage is associated with the use of cream hair dye products. If the user wishes to restore his original hair color, the dye can be removed from the keratin fibers quickly, completely and without residue without damaging the fibers or changing the original hair color. Therefore, the development of pigment-based keratin colorants is completely in line with the trend.
[0008] However, as before, there is still a need to optimize this dyeing system and the color intensity and hair feel or hold of keratin fibers still need to be improved.
[0009] The object of the present invention is to provide a dyeing system having fastness properties comparable to those of oxidation dyeing, if possible. The wash fastness properties should be outstanding, but the oxidation dye precursors usually used for this purpose should be avoided. A technology was sought which would make it possible to fix the colorant compounds known from the prior art, especially the pigments, on the hair in an extremely durable manner. When these agents are used in the dyeing process, intensive dyeing results with good fastness properties should be obtained. A particular emphasis of this task was to simultaneously obtain an intensive color result and a good hair feel.
[0010] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the above-mentioned task can be solved very well if the dyeing of keratin materials, in particular hair, is carried out by applying at least two agents (a) and (b) to the keratin materials (hair). Here, the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) and at least one coloring compound (a2). The agent (a) is in the form of a premix or concentrate, which is preferably low in water or anhydrous and comprises the components (a1) and (a2) as essential components. Before use, the agent (a) is mixed with a cosmetic carrier formulation in the form of an agent (b), which comprises at least one fatty component (b2) and is characterized by a reduced water content (b1). The application mixture prepared by mixing the agents (a) and (b) is then applied to the keratin material, allowed to act, and then rinsed off again with water.
[0011] A first object of the present invention is a method for coloring keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps:
[0012] (1) Providing a pharmaceutical agent (a), wherein the pharmaceutical agent (a) comprises:
[0013] (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and
[0014] (a2) at least one coloring compound,
[0015] (2) providing a pharmaceutical agent (b), wherein the pharmaceutical agent (b) comprises—based on the total weight of the pharmaceutical agent (b):
[0016] (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water and
[0017] (b2) at least one fat component,
[0018] (3) preparing an administration mixture by mixing agents (a) and (b),
[0019] (4) applying the application mixture prepared in step (3) to a keratin material,
[0020] (5) allowing the application mixture applied in step (4) to act on a keratin material; and
[0021] (6) Rinse the application mixture with water.
[0022] In the work leading to the present invention, it has been shown that particularly intense color results can be obtained on keratin materials if the agent (a) is provided in the form of a premix or concentrate as described above, which is mixed with the carrier formulation (b) only shortly before application. Surprisingly, much more intense color results can be obtained with the application mixture obtained by mixing the two agents (a) and (b) just before application than with an otherwise identical formulation comprising all the components of the two agents (a) and (b) from the outset. It has further been found that a reduction in the water content in the agent (b) leads to an improved grip of the keratin fibers.
[0023] Keratin materials
[0024] Keratin materials include hair, skin, nails (eg fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, fur and feathers also fall within the definition of keratin materials.
[0025] Preferably, keratin materials are understood to be human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratin materials are understood to be human hair.
[0026] Medicine (a)
[0027] In step (1) of the method according to the invention, a medicament (a) is provided. For example, the medicament (a) can be present in a packaging unit or container and provided to the user in this way. The container can be, for example, a pouch, a bottle, a jar, a jar or another container suitable for a cosmetic formulation.
[0028] The agent (a) is characterized in that it contains the components (a1) and (a2) essential to the present invention.
[0029] Amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) in the agent (a)
[0030] The agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer as the first component (a1) essential to the invention. The amino-functional silicone polymer may also be referred to as aminosilicone or amodimethicone.
[0031] Silicone polymers are macromolecules having a molecular weight of at least 500 g / mol, preferably at least 1000 g / mol, more preferably at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g / mol, which comprise repeating organic units.
[0032] The maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (the number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size, and is determined in part by the polymerization process. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred that the maximum molecular weight of the silicone polymer is no greater than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol, particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
[0033] Silicone polymers contain many Si-O repeating units, and the Si atoms may carry organic groups, such as alkyl or substituted alkyl groups. Alternatively, silicone polymers are therefore also referred to as polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0034] Corresponding to the high molecular weight of the silicone polymers, these are based on more than 10 Si-O repeating units, preferably more than 50 Si-O repeating units, more preferably more than 100 Si-O repeating units, most preferably more than 500 Si-O repeating units.
[0035] An amino-functional silicone polymer is understood to be a functionalized silicone with at least one structural unit having an amino group. Preferably, the amino-functional silicone polymer has a plurality of structural units, each having at least one amino group. Amino groups are understood to mean primary amino groups, secondary amino groups and tertiary amino groups. All of these amino groups can be protonated in an acidic environment and then exist in their cationic form.
[0036] In principle, beneficial effects can be achieved if the amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) carries at least one primary amino group, at least one secondary amino group and / or at least one tertiary amino group. However, dyeings with the best wash fastness are observed when amino-functional silicone polymers (a1) comprising at least one secondary amino group are used in the agent (a).
[0037] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group.
[0038] The one or more secondary amino groups may be located at various positions on the amino-functional silicone polymer. Particularly advantageous effects are found when amino-functional silicone polymers (a1) are used which have at least one, preferably several, structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
[0039]
[0040] In the structural unit of the formula (Si-amino), the abbreviations ALK1 and ALK2 independently represent a linear or branched divalent C 1 -C 20 Alkylene.
[0041] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the medicament (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino),
[0042]
[0043] in
[0044] ALK1 and ALK2 independently express linear or branched C 1 -C 20 A divalent alkylene group.
[0045] Positions marked with an asterisk (*) represent bonding points to other structural units of the silicone polymer. For example, the silicon atom adjacent to the asterisk may be bonded to another oxygen atom, and the oxygen atom adjacent to the asterisk may be bonded to another silicon atom or even to a C 1 -C 6 alkyl.
[0046] Bivalent C 1 -C 20 Alkylene may also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 20 Alkylene, which means that each ALK1 or AK2 group can form two bonds.
[0047] In the case of ALK1, one bond is from the silicon atom to the ALK1 group and the second bond is between ALK1 and the secondary amino group.
[0048] In the case of ALK2, one bond is from the secondary amino group to the ALK2 group and the second bond is between ALK2 and the primary amino group.
[0049] Straight chain divalent C 1 -C 20 Examples of alkylene groups include methylene (—CH 2 -), ethylene (-CH 2 -CH 2-), propylene (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) and butylene (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -). Propylene (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred. Starting from a chain length of 3 C atoms, the divalent alkylene group can also be branched. 3 -C 20 An example of an alkylene group is (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-) and (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).
[0050] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the structural unit of the formula (Si-amino) represents a repeating unit in the amino-functional silicone polymer (a1), so that the silicone polymer comprises a plurality of structural units of the formula (Si-amino).
[0051] Particularly suitable amino-functional silicone polymers (a1) having at least one secondary amino group are listed below.
[0052] Dyeings with optimal wash fastnesses can be obtained if, in the process according to the invention, at least one agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II) is applied to keratin materials:
[0053]
[0054] In a further, obviously very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the medicament (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) comprising structural units of the formula (Si-I) and the formula (Si-II):
[0055]
[0056] Corresponding amino-functional silicone polymers having the structural units (Si-I) and (Si-II) are, for example, the commercial products DC2-8566 or Dowsil 2-8566 Amino Fluid, which are commercially sold by Dow Chemical Company and have the name “Siloxanes and Silicones, 3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, Di-Me-Siloxane”, CAS number 106842-44-8.
[0057] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that an agent (a) is applied to the keratin material, the agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-III),
[0058]
[0059] in
[0060] - m and n are numbers, chosen so that the sum (n+m) is between 1 and 1000,
[0061] -n is a number from 0 to 999, m is a number from 1 to 1000,
[0062] - R1, R2 and R3 are the same or different and represent hydroxyl or C1-4 alkoxy,
[0063] - wherein at least one of R1 to R3 represents a hydroxyl group.
[0064] A further preferred method according to the invention is characterized in that an agent (a) is applied to the keratin material, the agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-IV),
[0065]
[0066] in
[0067] - p and q are numbers, chosen so that the sum (p+q) is between 1 and 1000,
[0068] -p is a number from 0 to 999, q is a number from 1 to 1000,
[0069] - R1 and R2 are different and represent a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, and at least one of R1 to R2 represents a hydroxyl group.
[0070] The silicones of formula (Si-III) and (Si-IV) differ in the groups on the Si atoms that carry the nitrogen-containing groups: in formula (Si-III), R2 represents a hydroxyl group or a C1-4 alkoxy group, while the group in formula (Si-IV) is a methyl group. The individual Si groups marked with subscripts m and n or p and q do not have to appear in the form of blocks; rather, the individual units can also be present in a statistically distributed manner, i.e., in formulas (Si-III) and (Si-IV), not every R1-Si(CH 3 ) 2 The groups must be bonded to -[O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 ]-group.
[0071] A method according to the invention in which an agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of the formula (Si-V) is applied to the keratin fibers has proven to be particularly effective for the desired effect:
[0072]
[0073] in
[0074] A represents a group –OH, –O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 、–O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, –O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
[0075] D represents a group –H, –Si(CH 3 ) 3 、–Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, –Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
[0076] b, n and c represent integers from 0 to 1000,
[0077] The condition is
[0078] -n>0 and b+c>0
[0079] - satisfies at least one of the conditions A=-OH or D=-H.
[0080] In the above formula (Si-V), the individual siloxane units are statistically distributed with the subscripts b, c and n, ie they do not necessarily have to be block copolymers.
[0081] Agent (a) may further comprise one or more different amino-functional silicone polymers represented by formula (Si-VI):
[0082] M(R a Q b SiO (4-a-b) / 2)x (R c SiO (4-c) / 2)y M (Si-VI)
[0083] wherein R is a hydrocarbon or hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and Q is of the general formula -R 1 The polar group of HZ, where R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen, and the group Z consists of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms, or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic amino functional group containing at least one amino functional group; "a" takes a value of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes a value of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, most preferably from about 3 to about 25, y is a number from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the group represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, hexyl, isohexyl, etc.; alkenyl groups such as vinyl, halogenated vinyl, alkyl vinyl, allyl, halogenated allyl, alkyl allyl; cycloalkyl groups such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, etc.; phenyl, benzyl, halogenated hydrocarbon groups such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl, etc.; and sulfur-containing groups such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl, etc.; preferably, R is an alkyl group containing 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. R 1 Examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -、-CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -、-OCH 2 CH 2 -、-OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -、-CH2 CH(CH 3 )C(O)OCH 2 -、-(CH 2 ) 3 CC(O)OCH 2 CH 2 -、-C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -、-C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and -(CH 2 ) 3 C(O)SCH 2 CH 2 -.
[0084] Z is an organic amino functional group containing at least one amino functional group. One formula of Z is NH(CH 2 ) z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or greater. Another formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NH, wherein z and zz are independently 1 or greater, and the structure comprises a diamino ring structure, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 Another formula of Z is -N(CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NX 2 or -NX 2 , where X 2 Each X of is independently selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
[0085] Q is most preferably of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 In this formula, "a" takes a value of about 0 to about 2, "b" takes a value of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number of about 1 to about 3. a Q b SiO (4-a-b) / 2 Unit and R cSiO (4-c) / 2 The molar ratio of the units is from about 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for each silicone component present in the silicone mixture.
[0086] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that an agent (a) is applied to the keratin material, wherein the agent (a) comprises an amino-functional silicone polymer of formula (Si-VII):
[0087] R' a G 3-a -Si(OSiG 2 ) n -(OSiG b R' 2-b ) m -O-SiG 3-a -R' a (Si-VII),
[0088] in:
[0089] -G is -H, phenyl, -OH, -O-CH 3 ,-CH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH 3 、-CH 2 CH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 、-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 、-O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 、-CH(CH 3 ) 2 、-O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 、-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 、-CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 、-O-CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH3 、-CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 、-OC(CH 3 ) 3 、-C(CH 3 ) 3 ;
[0090] -a represents a number from 0 to 3, especially 0;
[0091] -b represents a number from 0 to 1, especially 1;
[0092] - m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m+n) is from 1 to 2000, preferably from 50 to 150, wherein n preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and from 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values from 1 to 2000, from 1 to 10,
[0093] -R' is a monovalent group selected from the following:
[0094] oQN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N(R") 2
[0095] oQN(R") 2
[0096] oQ–N + (R") 3 A -
[0097] oQ–N + H(R") 2 A -
[0098] QUR + H 2 (R")A -
[0099] oQN(R")-CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R 2 A - ,
[0100] Where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH 2 -、-CH 2 -CH 2 -、-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -、-C(CH 3 ) 2 -、-CH2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -、-CH 2 C(CH 3 ) 2 -、-CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 2 -,
[0101] R" represents the same or different groups selected from the following groups: -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )Ph、C 1-20 Alkyl, preferably -CH 3 、-CH 2 CH 3 、-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 、-CH(CH 3 ) 2 、-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 、-CH 2 CH(CH 3 ) 2 、-CH(CH 3 )CH 2 CH 3 、-C(CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methylsulfate.
[0102] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that an agent (a) is applied to the keratin material, the agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) of formula (Si-VIIa),
[0103]
[0104] wherein m and n are numbers, the sum of which (m+n) is from 1 to 2000, preferably from 50 to 150, n preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and from 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values from 1 to 2000, 1 to 10.
[0105] According to the INCI nomenclature, these silicones are called trimethylsilyl amodimethicone.
[0106] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that an agent (a) is applied to the keratin material, said agent (a) comprising at least one amino-functional silicone polymer of the formula (Si-VIIb)
[0107]
[0108] Where R represents –OH, -O-CH 3 or –CH 3 The group, and m, n1 and n2 are numbers, the sum (m+n1+n2) is 1 to 2000, preferably 50 to 150, the sum (n1+n2) preferably takes values of 0 to 1999 and 49 to 149, and m preferably takes values of 1 to 2000, 1 to 10.
[0109] According to the INCI nomenclature, these amino-functional silicone polymers are called amodimethicone.
[0110] Regardless of which amino-functional silicone is used, the agent (a) according to the invention comprising an amino-functional silicone polymer having an amine value higher than 0.25 meq / g, preferably higher than 0.3 meq / g and higher than 0.4 meq / g is preferred. The amine value represents the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and is expressed in the unit mg KOH / g.
[0111] In addition, the medicament (a) comprising a specific 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone polymer (a1) is also suitable for use in the method according to the invention. The amino-functional silicone polymer comprises structural units of the formula (SI-VIII) and the formula (Si-IX)
[0112]
[0113] The corresponding 4-morpholinomethyl substituted silicone polymers are described below.
[0114] A very particularly preferred amino-functional silicone polymer is known under the name amodimethicone / morpholinomethylsilsesquioxane copolymer and is commercially available in the form of the raw material Belsil ADM 8301E from Wacker.
[0115] As 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicones, for example, silicones having structural units of the formulae (Si-VIII), (Si-IX) and (Si-X) can be used:
[0116]
[0117] in
[0118] R1 is –CH3 、-OH、-OCH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ;
[0119] R2 is –CH 3 , -OH or -OCH 3 .
[0120] Particularly preferred agents (a) according to the invention contain at least one 4-morpholinomethyl-substituted silicone of the formula (Si-XI)
[0121]
[0122] in
[0123] R1 is –CH 3 、-OH、-OCH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH 3 、-O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 or -O-CH(CH 3 ) 2 ,
[0124] R2 is –CH 3 , -OH or -OCH 3 ,
[0125] B represents a group –OH, –O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 、–O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, –O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
[0126] D represents a group –H, –Si(CH 3 ) 3 、–Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH, –Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3 ,
[0127] a, b and c independently represent integers from 0 to 1000, with the condition a+b+c>0,
[0128] m and n independently represent an integer from 1 to 1000,
[0129] The conditions are:
[0130] - satisfies at least one of the conditions B=-OH or D=-H,
[0131] - a, b, c, m and n are distributed statistically or in blocks in the molecule.
[0132] The structural formula (Si-XI) is intended to illustrate that the siloxane groups n and m do not necessarily have to be directly bonded to the terminal group B or D, respectively. Instead, in the preferred formula (Si-VI), a>0 or b>0, and in the particularly preferred formula (Si-VI), a>0 and c>0, i.e., the terminal group B or D is preferably connected to a dimethylsiloxy group. Moreover, in the formula (Si-VI), the siloxane units a, b, c, m and n are preferably distributed statistically.
[0133] The silicone represented by formula (Si-VI) used in accordance with the present invention may be trimethylsilyl terminated (D or B = -Si(CH 3 ) 3 ), but they can also be dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated on both sides or dimethylsilylhydroxy-terminated and dimethylsilylmethoxy-terminated on one side. Particularly preferred silicones in the context of the present invention are selected from the following silicones, wherein
[0134] B=–O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D=–Si(CH 3 ) 3
[0135] B=–O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D=–Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH
[0136] B=–O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH and D=–Si(CH 3 ) 2 OCH 3
[0137] B=–O-Si(CH 3 ) 3 And D=–Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH
[0138] B=–O-Si(CH 3 ) 2OCH 3 And D=–Si(CH 3 ) 2 OH.
[0139] These silicones lead to a considerable improvement in the hair properties of hair treated with the agents according to the invention and to a greatly increased protection against oxidative treatments.
[0140] The agent (a) used in the method according to the present invention is a premix or a concentrate comprising the amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) as a main component.
[0141] Preferably, the agent (a) contains all the essential ingredients in correspondingly large amounts. Particularly satisfactory results can be achieved if the agent (a) contains - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0 wt. %, preferably 4.0 to 70.0 wt. %, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0 wt. %, most preferably 8.0 to 20.0 wt. % of one or more amino-functional silicone polymers (a1).
[0142] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 8.0 to 20.0% by weight of one or more amino-functional silicone polymers (a1).
[0143] Coloring compound (a2) in the agent (a)
[0144] The agent (a) used in the method according to the invention comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) as a second component essential to the invention.
[0145] For the purposes of the present invention, a coloring compound is a substance which is able to impart coloration to keratin materials. Particularly suitable coloring compounds may be selected from pigments, direct-action dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
[0146] In another preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
[0147] Pigments within the meaning of the present invention are coloring compounds whose solubility in water at 25° C. is less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, and even more preferably less than 0.05 g / L. Water solubility can be determined, for example, by the method described below: 0.5 g of pigment is weighed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. One liter of distilled water is then added. While stirring on a magnetic stirrer, the mixture is heated to 25° C. for one hour. If insoluble components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period of time, the solubility of the pigment is less than 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high strength of the finely dispersed pigment, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of the undissolved pigment is left on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is less than 0.5 g / L.
[0148] Suitable colour pigments may be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
[0149] In a preferred embodiment, the medicament (a) according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from inorganic and / or organic pigments.
[0150] Preferred colored pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. The inorganic color pigment of natural origin can be made, for example, from chalk, ochre, umber, smectite, burnt yellow earth (burnt Terra di Siena) or graphite. In addition, black pigments such as black iron oxide, coloring pigments such as ultramarine or red iron oxide and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used as inorganic color pigments.
[0151] Particularly suitable are colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and / or molybdates. Preferred colored pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxides (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510) and / or cochineal (carmine).
[0152] According to the invention, colored pearlescent pigments are also particularly preferred colored pigments. These are usually mica and / or mica-based and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Micas belong to the group of phyllosilicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and nacre. In order to produce pearlescent pigments bonded to metal oxides, the mica, muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with the metal oxide.
[0153] As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxides can also be used as pearlescent pigments. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the above-mentioned metal oxides. The color of the individual pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the one or more metal oxides.
[0154] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from inorganic pigments, preferably selected from colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or mica or mica-based colored pigments coated with at least one metal oxide and / or metal oxychloride.
[0155] In another preferred embodiment, the medicament according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from pigments selected from mica or mica-based pigments reacted with one or more metal oxides selected from the following group: titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI77492), red and / or brown iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (ferric ferrocyanide, CI 77510).
[0156] Examples of particularly suitable colour pigments are those sold under the trade name and Commercially available from Merck under the trade name and Commercially available from Sensient under the trade name Commercially available from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and under the trade names Commercially available from Sunstar.
[0157] Particularly preferred are those with the trade name The colored pigments are for example:
[0158] Colorona Copper, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0159] Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
[0160] Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, Mica, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
[0161] Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), mica, CI 75470 (carmine)
[0162] Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0163] Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Ferric Ferrocyanide
[0164] Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Mica
[0165] Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, Mica, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
[0166] Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Mica
[0167] Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77510 (Ferric Ferrocyanide)
[0168] Colorona Red Brown, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
[0169] Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (titanium dioxide), mica, CI 77891 (iron oxides)
[0170] Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), D&C Red 30 (CI73360)
[0171] Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), mica, CI 77288 (chromium oxide green)
[0172] Colorona Light Blue, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI77510)
[0173] Colorona Red Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0174] Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI77491)
[0175] Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Carmine
[0176] Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, Mica, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides)
[0177] Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0178] Colorona Bronze, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0179] Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0180] Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0181] Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Mica
[0182] Colorona Sienna, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0183] Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, CI77491 (Iron Oxides), Tin Oxide
[0184] Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Mica, CI77891, CI 77491 (EU)
[0185] Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
[0186] Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
[0187] Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides)
[0188] Other particularly preferred trade names The colored pigments are for example:
[0189] Xirona Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
[0190] Xirona Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
[0191] Xirona Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
[0192] Xirona Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.
[0193] In addition, particularly preferred are those having the trade name The colored pigments are for example:
[0194] Unipure Red LC 381EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxide), Silica
[0195] Unipure Black LC 989EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0196] Unipure Yellow LC 182EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica
[0197] In another embodiment, the medicament (a) according to the invention may further comprise one or more coloring compounds (a2) selected from organic pigments.
[0198] The organic pigments according to the invention are corresponding insoluble organic dyes or pigments which can be selected, for example, from nitroso, nitro-azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketo-pyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, thioindole, dioxazine and / or triarylmethane compounds.
[0199] Examples of particularly suitable organic pigments are carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum red, blue pigments with color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0200] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from the group consisting of organic pigments, preferably selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum red, blue pigments with color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI74160, yellow pigments with color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, green pigments with color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 159 Orange pigment 71105, red pigments with color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.
[0201] Organic pigments can also be color paints. In the sense of the present invention, the term "color paint" refers to particles comprising an absorbed dye layer, the unit of particles and dye being insoluble under the above conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silicon dioxide, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or even aluminum.
[0202] For example, you can use alizarin color varnish.
[0203] Due to their excellent light and temperature resistance, the use of the above pigments in the medicament (a) according to the method of the invention is particularly preferred. It is also preferred that the pigment used has a certain particle size. Therefore, according to the invention, it is advantageous that the at least one pigment has an average particle size D of 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably 5.0 to 45 μm, preferably 10 to 40 μm, 14 to 30 μm. 50 . Average particle size D 50 For example, dynamic light scattering (DLS) can be used.
[0204] The coloring compound (a2) - a coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments - represents the second essential component of the medicament (a) or premix according to the invention. As a further essential component (a2), the one or more pigments are also very preferably used in the medicament (a) in a correspondingly higher amount. Particularly satisfactory results are obtained when the medicament (a) comprises - based on the total weight of the medicament (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, most preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight of one or more pigments.
[0205] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is characterized in that agent (a) - based on the total weight of agent (a) - comprises a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 4.0 to 70.0% by weight, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 8.0 to 30.0% by weight of one or more pigments.
[0206] The agent (a) used in the method according to the invention may also contain one or more direct dyes as coloring compounds (a2). Direct-acting dyes are dyes which are applied directly to the hair and which form a color without an oxidation process. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
[0207] Within the meaning of the present invention, direct dyes have a solubility in water at 25° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not regarded as pigments.
[0208] Preferably, within the meaning of the present invention, direct dyes have a solubility in water at 25° C. (760 mmHg) of greater than 1.0 g / L.
[0209] Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic direct dyes.
[0210] In another embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from anionic, nonionic and cationic direct dyes.
[0211] Suitable cationic direct dyes include Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, HC Blue 16, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76.
[0212] As nonionic direct dyes, nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes can be used. Suitable nonionic direct dyes are those listed under the following international names or trade names: HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-aminophenol , 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2-[(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl)amino]benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.
[0213] In the course of work leading to the present invention, it has been found that dyeings having good color strength and fastness properties can also be produced with a medicament (a) containing at least one anionic direct dye (a2).
[0214] Therefore, in a further embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one anionic direct dye.
[0215] Anionic direct dyes are also called acid dyes. Acid dyes are dyes that have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H) direct dyes. Depending on the pH value, the protonated forms of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups (-COOH, -SO 3 H) and its deprotonated form (the presence of -COO - 、-SO 3 - ) is in equilibrium. The proportion of protonated forms increases as pH decreases. If direct dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group exists in a deprotonated form and is neutralized with a corresponding stoichiometric equivalent of the cation to maintain electrical neutrality. Acid dyes of the present invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
[0216] Acid dyes within the meaning of the present invention have a solubility in water at 25°C (760 mmHg) greater than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not considered pigments. Preferably, acid dyes within the meaning of the present invention have a solubility in water at 25°C (760 mmHg) greater than 1.0 g / L.
[0217] Alkaline earth metal salts (e.g. calcium and magnesium salts) or aluminum salts of acid dyes generally have lower solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is lower than 0.5 g / L (25° C., 760 mmHg), they do not fall within the definition of direct dyes.
[0218] The key feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, wherein the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this are usually linked to different chromophoric systems. Suitable chromophoric systems can be found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
[0219] In another embodiment, the method for dyeing keratin materials is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one anionic direct dye selected from the following group: nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes, the dyes from the above groups each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), sodium carboxylate group (-COONa), potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), sulfonic acid group (-SO 3 H), sodium sulfonate group (-SO 3 Na) and / or potassium sulfonate groups (-SO 3 K).
[0220] Suitable acid dyes may include, for example, one or more compounds selected from the following group: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citrine A, Ext. D&C Yellow 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIP A n°B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIP An°: C54, D&C Yellow 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIP An°29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow 5), Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n°015), Acid Orange 10 (CI16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (Brown 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; No sodium salt; Brown 201; Resorcinol Brown; Acid Orange 24; Japan Brown 201; D&C Brown 1), Acid Red 14 (CI14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; CI 16255), Acid Red 27 (E123, CI16185, C-Rot46, real red D, FD&C Red No. 2, Food Red 9, Naphthol Red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Purple Red, D&C Red 33, CI17200), Acid Red 35 (CI CI18065), Acid Red 51 (CI 45430, Pyrosin B, Tetraiodine Fluorescein, Eosin J, Iodeosin), Acid Red 52 (CI 45100, Food Red 106, Solar Rhodamine B, Acid Rhodamine B, Red 106 Ponyl Glitter), Acid Red 73 (CI 27290), Acid Red 87 (Eosin, CI 45380), Acid Red 92 (COLIPA n℃53, CI45410), Acid Red 95 (CI 45425, Erythrosine, Simacid Erythrosine Y), Acid Red 184 (CI 15685), Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43 (Jarocol Violet 43, Ext. D&C Violet No. 2, CI60730, COLIPAn℃063), Acid Violet 49 (CI42640), Acid Violet 50 (CI 50325), Acid Blue 1 (Patent Blue, CI 42045), Acid Blue 3 (Patent Blue V, CI42051), Acid Blue 7 (CI 42080), Acid Blue 104 (CI 42735), Acid Blue 9 (E133, Patent Blue AE, Amido Blue AE, Erioglaucin A, CI 42090, CI Food Blue 2), Acid Blue 62 (CI62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI42085, Food Green 1), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (CI42100), Acid Green 22 (CI42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No. 5), Acid Green 50 (Light Acid Green BS, CI44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black No. 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20470, COLIP An° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
[0221] For example, the water solubility of anionic direct dyes can be determined in the following manner. 0.1 g of anionic direct dye is placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water is added. The mixture is heated to 25° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then visually evaluated. If there is still undissolved, the amount of water is increased—for example, in a gradient of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used is completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be visually evaluated due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a portion of the undissolved dye remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a higher amount of water. If 0.1 g of anionic direct dye is dissolved in 100 ml of water at 25° C., the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / L.
[0222] Acid Yellow 1 is known as 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt, and has a water solubility (25° C.) of at least 40 g / L.
[0223] Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of sodium salts of monosulfonic acid and disulfonic acid of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25° C.).
[0224] Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, and its solubility in water is higher than 40 g / L (25°C).
[0225] Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is highly soluble in water at 25°C.
[0226] Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonic acid. Its water solubility is greater than 7g / L (25°C).
[0227] Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalene disulfonic acid, and has an extremely high water solubility of more than 20% by weight.
[0228] Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, and its solubility in water is 2.5 g / L (25° C.).
[0229] Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxaxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, and its solubility in water is shown to be greater than 10 g / L (25° C.).
[0230] Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-({4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)amino]phenyl}{4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene}methyl)-benzenesulfonic acid and has a water solubility (25° C.) of greater than 20 wt %.
[0231] Therefore, in another embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one direct dye (a2) selected from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 11, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 103, Acid Red 104, Acid Red 105, Acid Red 106, Acid Red 107, Acid Red 108, Acid Red 109, Acid Red 111, Acid Red 112 C 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2, and / or D&C Brown 1.
[0232] Depending on the desired color intensity, direct dyes can be used in different amounts for agent (a). Particularly satisfactory results are obtained when agent (a) comprises - based on the total weight of agent (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0 wt. %, preferably 4.0 to 70.0 wt. %, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0 wt. %, most preferably 8.0 to 30.0 wt. % of one or more direct dyes.
[0233] Furthermore, the agent (a) may also comprise at least one photochromic or thermochromic dye as coloring compound (a2).
[0234] Photochromic dyes are dyes that undergo a reversible change of color tone in response to exposure to ultraviolet light (sunlight or black light). In the process, the ultraviolet light changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (photochromism).
[0235] Thermochromic dyes are dyes that undergo a reversible change of color tone in response to changes in temperature. In the process, the temperature change changes the chemical structure of the dyes and thus their absorption behavior (thermochromism).
[0236] Agent (a) may comprise - based on the total weight of agent (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0 wt. %, preferably 4.0 to 70.0 wt. %, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0 wt. %, most preferably 8.0 to 30.0 wt. % of one or more photochromic dyes (b).
[0237] Agent (a) may contain - based on the total weight of agent (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0 wt. %, preferably 4.0 to 70.0 wt. %, more preferably 6.0 to 50.0 wt. %, most preferably 8.0 to 30.0 wt. % of one or more thermochromic dyes (b).
[0238] Solvent (a3) in the agent (a)
[0239] The use of solvents (a3) continues to produce particularly satisfactory results. Therefore, the medicaments (a) according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one solvent as an optionally present component (a3).
[0240] Suitable solvents (a3) may include, for example, solvents selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol, and benzyl alcohol. 1,2-propylene glycol is particularly preferably used.
[0241] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) comprises at least one solvent (a3) selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol, very preferably 1,2-propylene glycol.
[0242] 1,2-Propanediol is also known as 1,2-propanediol (1,2-propanediol) and has CAS numbers 57-55-6 [(RS)-1,2-dihydroxypropane], 4254-14-2 [(R)-1,2-dihydroxypropane], and 4254-15-3 [(S)-1,2-dihydroxypropane]. Ethylene glycol is also known as 1,2-ethanediol and has CAS number 107-21-1. Glycerin is also known as 1,2,3-propanetriol and has CAS number 56-81-5. Phenoxyethanol has CAS number 122-99-6.
[0243] All solvents previously described are commercially available from various chemical suppliers such as Aldrich or Fluka.
[0244] By using the abovementioned solvents in suitable amounts, particularly stable agents (a) can be obtained which can be mixed particularly quickly and uniformly with agents (b). In addition, when using suitable and preferred solvents (a3), when using 1,2-propylene glycol, color results with very high intensity are obtained on keratin materials.
[0245] In a further preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) contains - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - one or more solvents (a3) in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 20.0 to 90.0% by weight, more preferably 40.0 to 85.0% by weight and very particularly preferably 60.0 to 85.0% by weight.
[0246] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that agent (a) comprises—based on the total weight of agent (a)—1.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 20.0 to 90.0% by weight, further preferably 40.0 to 85.0% by weight, very particularly preferably 60.0 to 85.0% by weight of 1,2-propylene glycol.
[0247] Packaging of medicine (a)
[0248] As described above, the agent (a) is in the form of a premix, a concentrate or a premix containing the essential ingredients (a1) and (a2) of the present invention as main components. Preferably, the agent (a) contains at least one solvent as a third optional ingredient (a3).
[0249] Without being bound by this theory, it is believed that the coloring compounds (a2) - especially if they are pigments - and the amino-functional silicone polymers (a1) can interact with each other. This interaction occurs in an aqueous environment or an environment containing water. One hypothesis is that an interaction occurs between the corresponding surface of the pigment and the amino groups of the silicone polymer, whereby water may act as a proton donor or proton acceptor.
[0250] This assumption is supported by the observation that in formulations containing, in addition to the aminosilicone (a1) and the pigment (a2), higher concentrations of the components of the carrier formulation, namely water (b1) and the fatty component (b2), a deposition of resinous substances can be observed after a few days. When this formulation is used for dyeing tests after a few days of storage, only dyeings with very low color intensity are obtained.
[0251] Surprisingly, the corresponding anhydrous agent (a) prepared in the form of a premix or concentrate and containing no water (b1) and no fat component (b2) remains stable without caking or resin deposition. For this reason, it has been shown to be particularly preferred to select a correspondingly low water content in the agent (a). Very intense color results have been obtained using agents (a) with a maximum water content of 10% by weight. However, if the water content in the agent (a) is reduced to a maximum value of no more than 5.0% by weight, more preferably no more than 2.5% by weight, most preferably no more than 10% by weight, the storage stability and dyeing properties can be further improved. In this regard, the water content is related to the total weight of the agent (a).
[0252] In a further specifically very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that agent (a) contains—based on the total weight of agent (a)—less than 10.0% by weight, preferably less than 5.0% by weight, further preferably less than 2.5% by weight, very particularly preferably less than 1.0% by weight of water.
[0253] In other words, in a further specifically very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) has a water content of 0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0 to 2.5% by weight, very particularly preferably 0 to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the agent (a).
[0254] The premix or medicament (a) according to the invention comprises as essential components the abovementioned components (a1), (a2) and optionally (a3), which are particularly preferably used in a corresponding excess in the medicament (a).
[0255] In principle, the premix or concentrate may also optionally contain other ingredients other than the components (a1), (a2) and possibly (a3). These other ingredients may be, for example, preservatives, flavorings or thickeners. However, particularly good storage stability can be achieved when the medicament (a) consists of a considerable proportion of the components (a1), (a2) and optionally (a3). Thus, it has proven to be particularly advantageous for the tasks according to the invention if the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) together account for a weight proportion of at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 95.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the medicament (a).
[0256] In other words, it is very particularly advantageous if agent (a) comprises further components besides components (a1), (a2) and (a3) only in a weight proportion of at most 30.0% by weight, preferably at most 20.0% by weight and very particularly preferably only 10.0% by weight.
[0257] In a further, very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that components (a1), (a2) and (a3) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - together have a weight fraction of at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 98.0% by weight.
[0258] If the solvent (a3) as an optional component is not contained in the agent (a), only the components (a1) and (a2) are present as the main components in the agent (a). In this embodiment, it is advantageous if the agent (a) contains other components other than the components (a1) and (a2) only in a weight proportion of at most 30.0% by weight, preferably at most 20.0% by weight, very preferably only 10.0% by weight.
[0259] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that components (a1) and (a2) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - together have a weight fraction of at least 70.0% by weight, preferably at least 80.0% by weight, more preferably at least 90.0% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 95.0% by weight.
[0260] Pharmacy (b)
[0261] In step (2) of the method according to the invention, the agent (b) is provided. For example, the agent (b) may be present in a packaging unit or container and provided to the user in this manner. The container may be, for example, a pouch, a bottle, a jar, a jar or another container suitable for a cosmetic formulation.
[0262] The medicament (b) represents a carrier formulation or base formulation and is characterized by its precisely adjusted water content (b1) and by its inclusion of one or more fat components (b2).
[0263] By mixing the agents (a) and (b), a preferably highly concentrated and low-water premix is converted into a ready-to-use form which can then be applied to the keratin materials.
[0264] Water content (b1) in the agent (b)
[0265] Agent (b) is characterized in that it is either free of water, ie its water content - based on the total weight of agent (b) - is 0% by weight, or it has a reduced water content of up to 50% by weight.
[0266] During the work leading to the present invention, it was found that the water content of agent (b) has a considerable influence on the feel of the keratin material or hair.
[0267] If, for example, a formulation having, in addition to the fatty component (b2), a very high water content is mixed with the agent (a) according to the invention, dyeings with high color intensity can be obtained, but the keratin fibers dyed in this way have a very poor feel. In this context, a poor grip must be understood to mean that the keratin fibers, in particular the hair, feel dull, rough and hard or messy.
[0268] On the other hand, when the agent (a) according to the present invention is mixed with the agent (b) according to the present invention, the dyed hair is softer and feels more comfortable and not dull.
[0269] In order to optimize the color intensity and the feel of the dyed keratin fibers, it is therefore very preferred to adjust the agent (b) to a specific water content. Best results are achieved when the agent (b) contains - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - 0 to 45% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 10 to 35% by weight and very particularly preferably 15 to 35% by weight of water (b1).
[0270] In a further specifically very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) contains—based on the total weight of the agent (b)—0 to 45% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, further preferably 10 to 35% by weight, very particularly preferably 15 to 35% by weight of water (b1).
[0271] Fatty component (b2) in the agent (b)
[0272] Another feature of the agent (b) is that it comprises at least one fatty component (b2). It has been found that the use of at least one fatty component results in the agent (b) being in the form of an emulsion, which allows particularly good and rapid mixing with the agent (a).
[0273] The fat component is a hydrophobic substance and can form an emulsion in the presence of water, thereby forming a micellar system.
[0274] For the purposes of the present invention, "fat component" means an organic compound whose solubility in water at room temperature (22° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. The definition of fat component explicitly covers only uncharged (i.e. nonionic) compounds. Fat components have at least one saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with at least 12 C atoms. The molecular weight of the fat component is a maximum of 5000 g / mol, preferably a maximum of 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably a maximum of 1000 g / mol. Fat components are neither polyoxyalkylated compounds nor polyglycerolated compounds.
[0275] Very preferably, the fat component (b2) contained in the agent (b) is selected from ester oils, C 12 -C 30 Fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0276] In the sense of the present invention, only nonionic substances are explicitly regarded as fat components. Charged compounds such as fatty acids and their salts are not regarded as fat components.
[0277] In a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises one or more fatty components (b2) selected from the group consisting of ester oils, C 12 -C 30 Fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
[0278] According to the present invention, the ester oil is C 6 –C 30 Alkane carboxylic acid and C 2 –C 30 Aliphatic alcohol esters. Aliphatic C2-C30 monohydric alcohols will be used for esterification into ester oils. 2 -C 30 Monohydric alcohols are compounds that have only one hydroxyl group.
[0279] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one selected from C 6 -C 30 Alkane carboxylic acids and aliphatic C 2 -C 30 Fatty components (b2) of esters of monohydric alcohols.
[0280] C is preferred 6 -C 30 Alkane carboxylic acid and C 2 -C 24 Monoesters of aliphatic alcohols. Examples of fatty acid components used in esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, elaeidic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical-grade mixtures thereof, which are used, for example, for pressure cleavage, for example of natural fats and oils, for oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen oxo synthesis or for dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. C in ester oils 2 -C 30Examples of aliphatic alcohols are isopropanol, caprylic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexanol, decanol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidic alcohol, petroselinol, linoleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, tungol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosene alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and basil alcohol and technical grade mixtures thereof, which are used, for example, in high-pressure hydrogenations, for example, based on technical grade methyl esters of fats and oils or on aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis, and as monomeric parts for dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
[0281] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one fatty component (b2) obtained by esterification of C6-C30 alkanecarboxylic acids selected from the group consisting of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeolic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and the C2-C30 alcohol selected from the group consisting of isopropanol, caprylic alcohol, caprylic acid, octanol, oleic acid, styryl alcohol ... alcohol), 2-ethylhexanol, decyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidoyl alcohol, petroselinol, linoleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, tungol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosene alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and basil alcohol.
[0282] A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is 2-ethylhexyl stearate ( 868), Isopropyl myristate ( IPM), C16-18 Alkyl Isononanoate ( SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate ( 24), Cetyl Oleate, Coconut Fatty Alcohol Caprate / Caprylate ( LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate ( J 600), isopropyl palmitate ( IPP), oleyl oleate Hexyl laurate ( A), di-n-butyl adipate ( B), myristyl myristate ( MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate ( SN), decyl oleate ( V).
[0283] A very particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is 2-ethylhexyl stearate ( 868).
[0284] In another very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the following group: 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, C16-18 alkyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and decyl oleate.
[0285] C 12 -C 30 The fatty alcohol may be a saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohol having 12 to 30 C atoms.
[0286] The preferred straight chain saturated C 12 -C 30 Examples of fatty alcohols are 1-dodecanol (dodecanol, lauryl alcohol), 1-tetradecanol (tetradecanol, myristyl alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (octadecanol, stearyl alcohol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), heneicosanol (1-henicosanol) and / or behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol).
[0287] Preferred linear unsaturated fatty alcohols are (9Z)-octadeca-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadeca-9-en-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dien-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenyl alcohol), eicosene alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic acid ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicos-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucic acid ((13Z)-docosa-13-en-1-ol) and / or basil alcohol ((13E)-docosaen-1-ol).
[0288] Suitable representatives of branched fatty alcohols are 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
[0289] In one embodiment, when the agent (b) comprises one or more C selected from the group consisting of 12 -C 30Good results were further obtained with fatty alcohols: 1-dodecanol (dodecanol, lauryl alcohol), 1-tetradecanol (tetradecanol, myristyl alcohol), 1-hexadecanol (hexadecanol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), 1-octadecanol (octadecanol, stearyl alcohol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), heneicosanol (1-heneicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), (9Z)-octadeca-9-ene-1-ol (oleyl alcohol), (9E)-octadeca-9-ene-1-ol (elaidyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-diene-1-ol (1-oleyl alcohol). 1-ol (linoleyl alcohol), (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trien-1-ol (linolenic alcohol), eicosene alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic acid ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicos-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol), erucic acid ((13Z)-docosa-13-en-1-ol), basil alcohol ((13E)-docosaen-1-ol), 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-hexyl-dodecanol and / or 2-butyl-dodecanol.
[0290] In a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the second agent (b) comprises one or more C selected from the group consisting of 12 -C 30 Fatty alcohol (b2):
[0291] 1-dodecanol (dodecanol, lauryl alcohol),
[0292] 1-Tetradecanol (Tetradecanol, Myristyl Alcohol),
[0293] 1-Hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol),
[0294] 1-octadecyl alcohol (octadecanol, stearyl alcohol),
[0295] Arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol),
[0296] Heneicosanol (1-henicosanol),
[0297] Behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol),
[0298] (9Z)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (oleyl alcohol),
[0299] (9E)-octadec-9-en-1-ol (elidol),
[0300] (9Z,12Z)-octadec-9,12-diene-1-ol (linoleyl alcohol),
[0301] (9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadecyl-9,12,15-triene-1-ol (linolenic alcohol),
[0302] Eicosene alcohol ((9Z)-eicos-9-en-1-ol),
[0303] Arachidonic acid ((5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosyl-5,8,11,14-tetraen-1-ol),
[0304] Erucicol ((13Z)-docosa-13-en-1-ol),
[0305] Bavicol ((13E)-1-docosahexaenoic acid),
[0306] 2-Octyl-dodecanol,
[0307] 2-Hexyl-dodecanol and / or
[0308] 2-Butyl-dodecanol.
[0309] Furthermore, the agent (b) may also contain at least one C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglycerides and / or C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides are very suitable as fat components (b2). 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides are understood to be triesters of the trivalent alcohol glycerol with three equivalents of fatty acids. Both structurally identical and different fatty acids can participate in the formation of the esters in the triglyceride molecule.
[0310] According to the present invention, fatty acids are understood to be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, unsubstituted or substituted C 12 -C 30 Carboxylic acids. Unsaturated fatty acids can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated. For unsaturated fatty acids, one or more CC double bonds can have a cis or trans configuration.
[0311] Fatty acid triglycerides are particularly suitable, in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol and a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), lignoceric acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], oleic ... enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docosa-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid], eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosyl-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0312] The fatty acid triglycerides may also be of natural origin. The fatty acid triglycerides present in soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, moringa oil, almond oil, marula oil and / or optionally hardened castor oil or mixtures thereof are particularly suitable for use in the products according to the invention.
[0313] C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid glycerol monoesters are understood to be monoesters of trivalent alcohol glycerol with one equivalent of fatty acid. Either the central hydroxyl group of glycerol or the terminal hydroxyl group of glycerol can be esterified with fatty acids.
[0314] C 12 -C 30Fatty acid monoglycerides are particularly suitable, wherein the hydroxyl groups of the glycerol are esterified with fatty acids selected from the group consisting of: dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), lignoceric acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], oleic ... acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docosa-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid], elaeolic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicos-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0315] C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglyceride is a diester of trivalent alcohol glycerol and two equivalents of fatty acid. The middle hydroxyl group and one terminal hydroxyl group of glycerol can be esterified with two equivalents of fatty acid, or the two terminal hydroxyl groups of glycerol can be esterified with one fatty acid respectively. Glycerol can be esterified with two fatty acids of the same structure or with two different fatty acids.
[0316] Fatty acid triglycerides are particularly suitable, in which at least one of the ester groups is formed from glycerol and a fatty acid selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), lignoceric acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], oleic ... enoic acid], erucic acid [(13Z)-docosa-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadeca-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid], eleostearic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadeca-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicosyl-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0317] When the agent (B) comprises at least one C selected from monoesters of glycerol and one equivalent of fatty acid 12 -C 30Particularly good results were obtained when the fatty acid monoglyceride was prepared, wherein the fatty acid was selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid (lauric acid), tetradecanoic acid (myristic acid), hexadecanoic acid (palmitic acid), lignoceric acid (lignoceric acid), octadecanoic acid (stearic acid), eicosanoic acid (arachidic acid), docosanoic acid (behenic acid), petroselinic acid [(Z)-6-octadecenoic acid], palmitoleic acid [(9Z)-hexadec-9-enoic acid], oleic acid [(9Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid], elaidic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], erucic acid [(9E)-octadec-9-enoic acid], sucrose Acid [(13Z)-docosa-13-enoic acid], linoleic acid [(9Z,12Z)-octadec-9,12-dienoic acid], linolenic acid [(9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadec-9,12,15-trienoic acid], elaeolic acid [(9Z,11E,13E)-octadec-9,11,3-trienoic acid], arachidonic acid [(5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z)-eicos-5,8,11,14-tetraenoic acid] and / or nervonic acid [(15Z)-tetracos-15-enoic acid].
[0318] In another embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the second agent (b) comprises at least one C selected from monoesters of glycerol with one equivalent of a fatty acid. 12 -C 30 Fatty acid glycerol monoester (b2), wherein the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of dodecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, lignoceric acid, octadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid and / or docosanoic acid.
[0319] Hydrocarbons are compounds consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms having 8 to 80 C atoms. In this regard, aliphatic hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, liquid paraffin oil (e.g., Paraffinum Liquidum or Paraffinum Perliquidum), isoparaffin oil, semisolid paraffin oil, paraffin, hard paraffin (Paraffinum Solidum), vaseline and polydecene are particularly preferred.
[0320] Liquid paraffin oils (Paraffinum Liquidum and Paraffinum Perliquidum) have proven to be suitable for this purpose. Paraffinum Liquidum, also known as white oil, is the preferred hydrocarbon. Paraffinum Liquidum is a mixture of purified saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons consisting of hydrocarbon chains with a C chain distribution of 25 to 35 carbon atoms.
[0321] Satisfactory results were also obtained when the agent (b) contained at least one hydrocarbon (b2) selected from mineral oil, liquid paraffin oil, isoparaffin oil, semisolid paraffin oil, paraffin, hard paraffin (Paraffinum solidum), vaseline and polydecene.
[0322] Very particularly satisfactory results can also be achieved if the preparations according to the invention comprise at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the group of ester oils.
[0323] By selecting the appropriate amount of the fatty component (b2) to be used in the agent (b), the color intensity of the coloring obtained by the process according to the invention can be further optimized and the feel of the keratin material can be further improved. For this purpose, it has proven particularly preferred to use one or more ester oils, C 200, C 250, C 201, C 202, C 203, C 204, C 205, C 206, C 207, C 208, C 209, C 210, C 221, C 222, C 223, C 224, C 225, C 226, C 227, C 228, C 229, C 230, C 231, C 232, C 233, C 234, C 235, C 236, C 237, C 238, 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides and / or C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides and / or hydrocarbons (b2).
[0324] It has proven particularly preferred that the agent (b) comprises - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight, preferably 40 to 97% by weight, more preferably 50 to 95% by weight, most preferably 60 to 90% by weight of one or more fatty components (b2).
[0325] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) contains - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - one or more fat components in a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight, preferably 40 to 97% by weight, more preferably 50 to 95% by weight, very particularly preferably 60 to 90% by weight.
[0326] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) contains - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight, preferably 40 to 97% by weight, more preferably 50 to 95% by weight, very particularly preferably 70 to 90% by weight of one or more ester oils (b2).
[0327] Surfactant in the agent (b)
[0328] Furthermore, it may be preferred to further use at least one surfactant in medicament (b). In a further embodiment, medicament (b) therefore additionally comprises at least one surfactant.
[0329] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one surfactant.
[0330] The term surfactant (T) refers to surface-active substances which can form adsorbed layers on surfaces and interfaces or aggregate in the bulk phase to form micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic group and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants with a negative charge and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to the hydrophobic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charge but have a strong dipole moment and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
[0331] In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant (b3).
[0332] Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, polyol groups, polyalkylene glycol ether groups or a combination of polyol and polyethylene glycol ether groups as hydrophilic groups. Such surfactants include:
[0333] - addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty alcohol polyethylene glycol ethers or fatty alcohol polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
[0334] - addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, fatty acid polyglycol ethers or fatty acid polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
[0335] - addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or alkyl polypropylene glycol ethers or mixed alkylphenol polyethers,
[0336] - 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with the methyl or C 2-6 radicals of alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; 2 -C 6 - alkyl end-capped addition products, such as those sold under the name LS, Products available from LT(Cognis),
[0337] -1 to 30 mol of the addition product of ethylene oxide and glycerol 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoesters and diesters,
[0338] - addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil,
[0339] - Polyol fatty acid esters, such as commercial HSP (Cognis) or Commodity (Cognis),
[0340] - alkoxylated triglycerides,
[0341] - Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl ester of formula (Tnio-1):
[0342] R 1 CO-(OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (Tnio-1)
[0343] Where R 1 CO is a straight chain or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, R 3 is a straight or branched alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, w is a number from 1 to 20,
[0344] - amine oxides,
[0345] - hydroxy mixed ethers, as described in DE-OS 19738866,
[0346] - sorbitan fatty acid esters, and addition products of ethylene oxide and sorbitan fatty acid esters such as polysorbates,
[0347] - sugar fatty acid esters, and addition products of ethylene oxide and sugar fatty acid esters,
[0348] - addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
[0349] - Sugar tensides of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II):
[0350] R 4 O-[G] p (Tnio-2)
[0351] Where R 4G is an alkyl or alkenyl group containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar residue containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by relevant organic chemical preparation methods. Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. Preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are therefore alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides. The index p in the general formula (Tnio-2) represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is, the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides, representing a number from 1 to 10. Although p must always be an integer in a single molecule and can take the value p=1 to 6, the p value for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, usually expressed as a fraction. It is preferred to use alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From the point of view of application technology, preference is given to those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and between 1.2 and 1.4. 4 It can be derived from primary alcohols containing 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, hexanol, octanol, decanol and undecanol and their technical mixtures, such as those obtained during the hydrogenation of industrial fatty acid methyl esters or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen oxo synthesis. Preferred are those with a chain length of C 8 -C 10 (DP = 1 to 3) alkyl oligoglycosides, which are used as distillation separation industrial C 8 -C 18 Coconut fatty alcohol is obtained in the preliminary step and may be contaminated with less than 6 wt.% of C 12 Alcohols, and industrial C 9 / 11 Alkyl oligoglucosides of oxoalcohols (DP = 1 to 3). Alkyl or alkenyl R 15 It can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidic alcohol, petroselinol, arachidyl alcohol, eicosene alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucic acid, basil alcohol and the technical mixtures obtainable as described above. Preferred are hardened C 12 / 14 Alkyl oligoglycosides of coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
[0352] - Sugar-based surfactants of fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, nonionic surfactants of formula (Tnio-3):
[0353] R 5 CO-NR 6 -[Z](Tnio-3)
[0354] Where R 5CO is an aliphatic acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and [Z] is a straight-chain or branched polyhydroxyalkyl group containing 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances and can generally be obtained by reductive amination of reducing sugars with ammonia, alkylamines or alkanolamines and subsequent acylation with fatty acids, fatty acid alkyl esters or fatty acid chlorides. Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. Preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides represented by the formula (Tnio-4):
[0355] R 7 CO-(NR 8 )-CH 2 –[CH(OH)] 4 –CH 2 OH(Tnio-4)
[0356] Preferably, glucamides of formula (Tnio-4) are used as fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides, wherein R 8 represents hydrogen or alkyl, R 7 CO represents the acyl radical of the following acids: caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, eicosenoic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (Tnio-4), which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acids or corresponding derivatives. In addition, polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
[0357] The sugar surfactant may preferably be present in the medicament used according to the present invention in an amount of 0.1-20 wt.% based on the total medicament. An amount of 0.5-15 wt.% is preferred, and an amount of 0.5-7.5 wt.% is particularly preferred.
[0358] Other typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates in mixed ether or mixed form.
[0359] Alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids, with 2 to 30 mol of alkylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid, and sugar surfactants have proven to be preferred nonionic surfactants. Formulations with excellent properties can also be obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
[0360] These aspects are confirmed by the following parameters. The alkyl group R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be straight or branched. Aliphatic groups with primary straight chains and 2-methyl branches are preferred. Such alkyl groups are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-dodecyl, 1-tetradecyl, 1-hexadecyl and 1-octadecyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-dodecyl, 1-tetradecyl. When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
[0361] The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can all be homogeneous substances. In the production of these substances, however, it is generally preferred to start from natural plant or animal raw materials in order to obtain mixtures of substances with different alkyl chain lengths, depending on the respective raw material.
[0362] For surfactants which are addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homologue distribution and those with a narrow homologue distribution can be used. A "normal" homologue distribution refers to the homologue mixture obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohols and alkylene oxides using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. On the other hand, when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts, a narrowed homologue distribution is obtained. Products with a narrow homologue distribution can preferably be used.
[0363] Particularly satisfactory results are obtained when an agent (b) comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol having a degree of ethoxylation of 80 to 120 is used in the process according to the invention.
[0364] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant of the formula (TI),
[0365]
[0366] Wherein Ra represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched C 8 -C 24 Alkyl, preferably saturated straight chain C 16 -C 18Alkyl, and n is an integer from 80 to 120, preferably an integer from 90 to 110, and the number 100 is particularly preferred.
[0367] A particularly suitable nonionic surfactant of this type is sold under the trade name Brij S100 or Brij S100 PASG. This is stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 100 EOs, commercially available from Croda and having the CAS number 9005-00-9.
[0368] Furthermore, particularly satisfactory results are obtained when an agent (b) comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty alcohol having a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 40 is used in the method according to the invention.
[0369] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that agent (b) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant of the formula (T-II),
[0370]
[0371] in
[0372] Rb is a saturated or unsaturated, straight chain or branched chain C 8 -C 24 Alkyl, preferably saturated straight chain C 16 -C 18 Alkyl, and
[0373] m is an integer from 10 to 40, preferably an integer from 20 to 35, and the number 30 is particularly preferred.
[0374] A particularly suitable nonionic surfactant of this type is ceteareth-30. Ceteareth-30 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, each of which is ethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide units. A mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol is called cetearyl alcohol. Ceteareth-30 has the CAS number 68439-49-6 and can be purchased, for example, from BASF under the trade name Eumulgin B3.
[0375] Other optional ingredients in the pharmaceutical composition (a) and / or (b)
[0376] In addition to the essential components of the present invention that have been described, the medicaments (a) and / or (b) may also contain other optional components.
[0377] For example, agents (a) and / or (b) may comprise a film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl formamide copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, with polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) being particularly preferred.
[0378] Other suitable film-forming polymers can be selected from copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylates, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylates, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0379] Film-forming polymers selected from synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by free-radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven to be very suitable.
[0380] Other particularly suitable film-forming polymers may be selected from homopolymers or copolymers of olefins such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, vinyl ethers having at least one C 1 -C 20 Alkyl, aryl or C2-C10 hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylic acid esters or amides.
[0381] Other film-forming polymers may be selected from homopolymers or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate; isoamyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate; isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl methacrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate; and / or mixtures thereof.
[0382] Other film-forming polymers can be selected from homopolymers or copolymers of the following substances: (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl-(meth)acrylamide with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethyl-acrylamide, N-tert-butyl-acrylamide, N-octyl-acrylamide; N-di(C1-C4)alkyl-(meth)acrylamide.
[0383] Other preferred anionic copolymers are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or C 1 -C 6 Copolymers of alkyl esters are sold under the INCI name acrylate copolymers. Suitable commercial products are, for example, acrylate copolymers from Rohm & Haas 33. Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or C 1 -C 6 Copolymers of alkyl esters and esters of ethylenically unsaturated acids with alkoxylated fatty alcohols are also preferred. Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are especially acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are especially steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
[0384] Very particularly preferred polymers on the market are for example 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure (Acrylates / Aminoacrylate C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylates Copolymer) or Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylates Copolymer) distributed by Rohme und Haas.
[0385] Homopolymers and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl-(C1-C6)alkyl-pyrrole, vinyloxazole, vinylthiazole, vinylpyrimidine, vinylimidazole may be mentioned as suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers.
[0386] Furthermore, the copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymers are particularly suitable, such as are available from NATIONAL STARCH under the trade name or 47 is commercially available, or a copolymer of acrylates / octylacrylamide, marketed by NATIONALSTARCH under the trade name LT and 79 are commercially available.
[0387] Suitable olefin-based polymers include homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene, and butadiene.
[0388] In another form, block copolymers can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers, which contain at least one block of styrene or a styrene derivative. These block copolymers can be copolymers containing one or more other blocks in addition to the styrene block, such as styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene. Such polymers are commercially sold by BASF under the trade name "Luvitol HSB".
[0389] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (a) and / or (b) comprises at least one film-forming polymer (b2) selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinylformamide copolymers and / or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers, copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylates, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylates, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
[0390] The one or more film-forming polymers are preferably used in the agents (a) and / or (b) in an amount within a specific range. In this regard, it has proven particularly preferred for solving the problem of the present invention that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - comprises a total amount of 0.1 to 25.0 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 20.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 15.0 wt.%, very particularly preferably 1.0 to 7.0 wt.% of one or more polymers.
[0391] The medicament may also contain one or more surfactants. The term surfactant refers to surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic group and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants with a negative charge and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which carry a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to the hydrophobic group, nonionic surfactants which are uncharged but have a strong dipole moment, and strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
[0392] Zwitterionic surfactants are surfactants with at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO 3 (-) Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, for example N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinates, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinates, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl radical, and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. Preferred zwitterionic surfactants are the fatty acid amide derivatives known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0393] Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds that, in addition to C 8 -C 24 In addition to an alkyl or acyl group, the molecule also contains at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH- or -SO 3 H groups, and can form inner salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylaminopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkylsarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid, which all have about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkylamide betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
[0394] Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 Acylsarcosine.
[0395] In addition, the medicament may also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e. surface-active compounds, that carry one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain only positive charges. Typically, these surfactants consist of a hydrophobic portion, which is typically composed of a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., composed of one or two straight or branched alkyl chains), and a hydrophilic head group, wherein the positive charge is located in the hydrophilic head group. Examples of cationic surfactants are:
[0396] - quaternary ammonium compounds which may carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms as hydrophobic groups,
[0397] - a quaternary phosphonium salt substituted by one or more alkyl chains having a chain length of 8 to 28 C atoms, or
[0398] - tert-sulfonium salts.
[0399] Furthermore, the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g., an imidazole ring or a pyridine ring) in the form of an onium structure. In addition to the functional groups with a cationic charge, the cationic surfactants can also contain other uncharged functional groups, for example in the case of ester quaternary ammonium salts. The total amount of the cationic surfactant used is 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1 to 30 wt.%, and most preferably 1 to 15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the corresponding medicament.
[0400] In addition, the medicament according to the invention may also contain at least one anionic surfactant. Anionic surfactants are surfactants that have only anionic charge (neutralized by the corresponding counter cation). Examples of anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
[0401] The anionic surfactant is used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45 wt.%, preferably 1-30 wt.%, most preferably 1-15 wt.%, based on the total weight of the corresponding agent.
[0402] The medicament may also contain other active ingredients, adjuvants and additives, such as solvents; fat components such as C 8 -C 30 Fatty alcohol, C 8 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides, C 8 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglyceride, C 8 -C 30Fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons; polymers; structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair care compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalin; perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins; active ingredients that improve the fiber structure, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, for example glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; dyes for coloring the product; anti-dandruff active ingredients, for example piroctone ethanolamine salts ( olamine), zinc pyrithione (zincomadine) and climbazole (climbazole); amino acids and oligopeptides; animal and / or plant-based protein hydrolysates, as well as fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives thereof; vegetable oils; light stabilizers and UV blockers; active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and its salts, and bisabolol; polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acid, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarin, hydroxybenzoic acid, catechins, tannins, leucoanthocyanidins, anthocyanidins, cyanidins, flavanones, flavonoids and flavonols; ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors; plant extracts; fats and waxes, such as fatty alcohols, beeswax, montan wax and kerosene; swelling agents and penetrants, such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidine, urea and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; opacifiers, such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; pearlescent agents, such as ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate and PEG-3 distearate; and foaming agents, such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air.
[0403] These other substances will be selected by the expert according to the desired properties of the medicament. Regarding other optional ingredients and the dosage of these ingredients, explicit reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the expert. The additional active ingredients and auxiliary substances are preferably used in the preparations of the present invention in an amount of 0.0001 to 25 wt.%, 0.0005 to 15 wt.% each based on the total weight of the corresponding medicament.
[0404] However, as mentioned above, the medicament (a) is particularly preferably composed of components (a1), (a2) and optionally (a3). If the medicament (a) should also contain any of the above-mentioned other optional components, these components are particularly preferably used in the medicament (a) only in trace amounts.
[0405] The administration mixture is prepared by mixing agents (a) and (b)
[0406] In step (3) of the process according to the invention, a ready-to-use mixture is prepared by mixing the agents (a) and (b). In other words, in this process step, a premix or concentrate (a), i.e. a preferably low-water, highly concentrated mixture of aminosilicone (a1), coloring compound (a2) and optionally a solvent (a3), is mixed with a cosmetic carrier formulation (b) having a low water content (b1) and a fat component (b2).
[0407] In principle, different amounts of agent (a) can be mixed with agent (b), so that a mixing ratio (a) / (b) of 1:200 to 200:1 is conceivable.
[0408] However, since the premix (a) is preferably a concentrate, it has proven particularly advantageous to use relatively small amounts of the agent (a) and to dilute them with relatively high amounts of the agent (b).
[0409] Particularly preferred is to prepare the administration mixture by mixing the agents (a) and (b) in a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200, preferably 1:5 to 1:100, further preferably 1:5 to 1:40, most preferably 1:15 to 1:20.
[0410] For example, 10 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 50 g of agent (b) at a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:5.
[0411] For example, 2 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 200 g of agent (b) at a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:100.
[0412] For example, 15 g of agent (a) can be mixed with 225 g of agent (b) at a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:15.
[0413] For example, 4 g of agent (a) may be mixed with 100 g of agent (b) at a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:25.
[0414] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that:
[0415] (3) The administration mixture is prepared by mixing the agents (a) and (b) in a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200, preferably 1:5 to 1:100, further preferably 1:5 to 1:40, most preferably 1:15 to 1:20.
[0416] The pH of the agents (a) and (b) is preferably adjusted so that the application mixture prepared from (a) and (b) also has a neutral to alkaline pH. Most preferably, the application mixture has an alkaline pH of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, most preferably 8.5 to 10.5. Under alkaline conditions, the amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) can be dissolved or dispersed particularly well and is not protonated.
[0417] Within the scope of a further preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that:
[0418] The application mixture prepared by mixing agents (a) and (b) has a pH of 7.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably 8.5 to 10.5.
[0419] To adjust the desired pH, agents (a) and / or (b) may comprise at least one alkalizing agent.The pH values for the purposes of the present invention are the pH values measured at a temperature of 22°C.
[0420] These agents may contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids as alkalizing agents.
[0421] The alkanolamines that can be used in the medicament of the present invention are preferably selected from C 2 -C 6 Primary amines of alkyl bases. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropane-1-ol, 4-aminobutane-1-ol, 5-aminopentane-1-ol, 1-aminopropane-2-ol, 1-aminobutane-2-ol, 1-aminopentane-2-ol, 1-aminopentane-3-ol, 1-aminopentane-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropane-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
[0422] Particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol. Therefore, a particularly preferred embodiment is characterized in that the medicament according to the invention comprises an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol as alkalizing agent.
[0423] For the purposes of the present invention, an amino acid is one that contains in its structure at least one protonatable amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, especially α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids, of which α-aminocarboxylic acids are particularly preferred.
[0424] According to the present invention, basic amino acids are those having an isoelectric point, pi, greater than 7.0.
[0425] The basic α-aminocarboxylic acid contains at least one asymmetric carbon atom. In the context of the present invention, the two enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or a mixture thereof, in particular in the form of a racemate. However, it is particularly advantageous to use the naturally preferred isomeric form, usually in the L-configuration.
[0426] The basic amino acid is preferably selected from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably arginine and lysine. Therefore, in another particularly preferred embodiment, the medicament according to the invention is characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid selected from arginine, lysine, ornithine and / or histidine.
[0427] In addition, the product may contain other alkalizing agents, especially inorganic alkalizing agents. The inorganic alkalizing agents usable according to the invention are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0428] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are ammonia, 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropane-1-ol, 4-aminobutane-1-ol, 5-aminopentane-1-ol, 1-aminopropane-2-ol, 1-aminobutane-2-ol, 1-aminopentane-2-ol, 1-aminopentane-3-ol, 1-aminopentane-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropane-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0429] In a further very particularly preferred embodiment, the process according to the invention is characterized in that the colorant (a) comprises at least one alkalizing agent selected from the group consisting of ammonia, 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropane-1-ol, 4-aminobutane-1-ol, 5-aminopentane-1-ol, 1-aminopropane-2-ol, 1-aminobutane-2-ol, 1-aminopentane-2-ol, 1-aminopentane-3-ol, 1-aminopentane-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropane-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, arginine, lysine, ornithine, histidine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
[0430] Application of mixtures
[0431] In step (4) of the process according to the invention, the application mixture prepared in step (3) is applied to a keratin material, very preferably human hair.
[0432] Preferably, the application mixture is applied to the keratin material (or hair) within 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 1 to 60 minutes, further preferably 1 to 30 minutes, most preferably 1 to 15 minutes after its preparation in step (3).
[0433] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that:
[0434] (4) The application mixture is applied to the keratin material within 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 1 to 60 minutes, further preferably 1 to 30 minutes, most preferably 1 to 15 minutes after its preparation in step (3).
[0435] Allowing the application mixture to act on the keratin material
[0436] In step (5) of the method according to the invention, the application mixture is allowed to act on the keratin material after its application. In this regard, different action times of, for example, 30 seconds to 60 minutes are conceivable.
[0437] However, the main advantage of the dyeing system according to the invention is that an intense color result can be achieved even after a short action time. For this reason, it is advantageous if the application mixture remains on the keratin material only for a relatively short time after its application, from 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, particularly preferably from 1 to 5 minutes.
[0438] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that:
[0439] (5) The application mixture applied in step (4) is allowed to act on the keratin material for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes, preferably 30 seconds to 10 minutes, more preferably 1 to 5 minutes.
[0440] Flush application mixture
[0441] Finally, after application of the mixture to the keratin material, it is rinsed with water in step (6).
[0442] In one embodiment, the application mixture can be washed off with water alone, ie without the aid of post-treatment agents or shampoos. In principle, it is also conceivable to use post-treatment agents or conditioners in step (6).
[0443] However, in order to achieve the object according to the invention and to increase the ease of use, it has proven particularly preferred to rinse the application mixture in step (6) only with water without further post-treatment agents, shampoos or conditioners.
[0444] In another preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is characterized in that:
[0445] (6) Use the mixture only by flushing with water.
[0446] Sequence of method steps
[0447] The method according to the present invention comprises steps (1) to (6).
[0448] In step (1), agent (a) is provided, and step (2) includes providing agent (b).
[0449] These two steps do not necessarily have to be performed one after the other, but can also be performed simultaneously.
[0450] Thus, step (1) may occur before step (2), steps (1) and (2) may occur simultaneously, or step (2) may occur before step (1).
[0451] For example, if medicaments (a) and (b) are provided to the user in a multi-component packaging unit, both medicaments are provided simultaneously and it is up to the user to decide which medicament to remove from the packaging first.
[0452] The preparation of the administration mixture by mixing agents (a) and (b) in step (3) can only be carried out after both agents (a) and (b) have been provided.
[0453] The application of the application mixture in step (4) can only be carried out after it has been prepared in step (3).
[0454] Similarly, the application mixture in step (5) may be applied after it has been applied to the keratin material, and rinsing of the application mixture in step (6) may be performed after it has been applied in step (5).
[0455] Multi-component packaging unit
[0456] In order to increase the convenience of the user, all necessary medicaments are preferably provided to the user in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit).
[0457] Therefore, a second object of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit) for dyeing keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising separately manufactured
[0458] - a first container comprising a medicament (a'), wherein the medicament (a') comprises:
[0459] (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and
[0460] (a2) at least one coloring compound, and
[0461] (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), and
[0462] - A second container comprising a pharmaceutical agent (b), wherein the pharmaceutical agent (b) comprises - based on the total weight of the pharmaceutical agent (b):
[0463] (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and
[0464] (b2) at least one fat component, and
[0465] (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0466] Among them, components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) have been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the present invention.
[0467] The amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) contained in the agent (a) of the kit corresponds to the amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) also used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0468] The coloring compound (a2) contained in the agent (a) of the kit corresponds to the coloring compound (a2) also used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0469] The solvent (a3) contained in the agent (a) of the kit, if any, corresponds to the solvent (a3) which can also be used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0470] The fat component (b2) contained in the medicament (b) of the kit corresponds to the fat component (b2) also used in the medicament (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0471] The nonionic surfactant (b3) optionally contained in the agent (b) of the kit corresponds to the nonionic surfactant (b3) also used in the agent (a) of the aforementioned method.
[0472] Ready-to-use medicine
[0473] By mixing the two agents (a) and (b), a ready-to-use dye is produced with which keratin materials can be dyed intensely and evenly.
[0474] If, as described above in a very particularly preferred application form, an anhydrous agent (a) is used for mixing with agent (b), the ready-to-use agent comprises
[0475] (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and
[0476] (a2) at least one coloring compound, and
[0477] (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), and
[0478] (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and
[0479] (b2) at least one fat component, and
[0480] (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant,
[0481] Among them, components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) have been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the present invention.
[0482] Therefore, a third object of the present invention is a ready-to-use agent for coloring keratin materials, in particular human hair, comprising - based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent:
[0483] (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and
[0484] (a2) at least one coloring compound, and
[0485] (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), and
[0486] (b1) 0 to 50% by weight of water, and
[0487] (b2) at least one fat component, and
[0488] (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant.
[0489] Among them, components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) have been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the present invention.
[0490] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ready-to-use agent is characterized in that it is prepared by mixing the two agents (a) and (b) before application to the keratin material, the agents (a) and (b) and their mixture having been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject of the invention.
[0491] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention and the ready-to-use medicament according to the invention, what has been said with regard to the method according to the invention also applies mutatis mutandis. Example
[0492] 1. Preparation
[0493] The following formulations were prepared:
[0494]
[0495]
[0496]
[0497] 2. Application
[0498] To prepare the application mixture, 12 g of each agent (a) was mixed with 100 g of each agent (b). Each application mixture was tested on a hair tress (Kerling, white hair of European descent, liquid ratio: 1 g application mixture / g hair tress). The application mixture was allowed to act for three minutes. Subsequently, the hair tress was thoroughly washed with water (1 minute), dried, and then visually evaluated under a fluorescent lamp. The feel and color intensity of each dyed hair tress were evaluated by trained personnel.
[0499]
[0500]
[0501] With application mixtures AWM 3 and AMW 4, good to very good results were obtained with regard to color intensity and hair feel.
Claims
1. A method for dyeing keratin materials, the method The following steps are involved: (1) Providing a pharmaceutical agent (a), wherein the pharmaceutical agent (a) comprises: (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound selected from pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes, the agent (a) comprising - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - 0 to 10% by weight of water, (2) Providing a pharmaceutical agent (b), wherein the pharmaceutical agent (b) comprises - based on the total weight of the pharmaceutical agent (b): (b1) 0 to 35% by weight of water and (b2) at least one fat component, (3) preparing an administration mixture by mixing the agents (a) and (b), (4) applying the application mixture prepared in step (3) to the keratin material, (5) allowing the application mixture applied in step (4) to act on the keratin material; and (6) Rinse the application mixture with water.
2. The method according to claim 1, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1) having at least one secondary amino group.
3. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1), the amino-functional silicone polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (Si-amino), in ALK1 and ALK2 independently express linear or branched C 1 -C 20 A divalent alkylene group.
4. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises at least one amino-functional silicone polymer (a1), wherein the amino-functional silicone polymer comprises structural units of formula (Si-I) and formula (Si-II):
5. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0 wt. % of one or more amino-functional silicone polymers (a1).
6. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from inorganic pigments.
7. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the agent (a) comprises at least one coloring compound (a2) selected from organic pigments.
8. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - one or more pigments in a total amount of 2.0 to 95.0% by weight.
9. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises at least one solvent (a3) selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol.
10. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) comprises - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - one or more solvents (a3) in a total amount of 1.0 to 95.0 wt %.
11. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (a) contains—based on the total weight of the agent (a)—0 to 5% by weight of water.
12. The method according to claim 9, wherein the components (a1), (a2) and (a3) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - together have a weight fraction of at least 70.0 wt%.
13. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (b) contains—based on the total weight of the agent (b)—10 to 35% by weight of water (b1).
14. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (b) comprises one or more fatty components (b2) selected from the group consisting of ester oil, C 12 -C 30 Fatty alcohol, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid monoglyceride, C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid diglycerides and / or hydrocarbons.
15. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (b) comprises at least one selected from C 6 -C 30 Alkane carboxylic acids and aliphatic C 2 -C 30 Fatty components (b2) of esters of monohydric alcohols.
16. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (b) contains at least one fatty component (b2) selected from the following group: 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, C16-18 alkyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and decyl oleate.
17. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The medicament (b) comprises - based on the total weight of the medicament (b) - one or more fatty components in a total amount of 30 to 99% by weight.
18. The method according to claim 1 or 2, It is characterized in that The agent (b) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant (b3).
19. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Features: (3) The agents (a) and (b) are mixed at a quantitative ratio (a) / (b) of 1:2 to 1:200, thereby preparing an administration mixture.
20. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Features: (4) Applying the application mixture to the keratin material within a period of 1 to 120 minutes after its preparation in step (3).
21. The method according to claim 1 or 2, Features: (5) allowing the application mixture applied in step (4) to act on the keratin material for a period of 30 seconds to 15 minutes.
22. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the keratin material is human hair.
23. A multi-component packaging unit for dyeing keratin materials, comprising a first container prepared separately - comprising an agent (a), wherein the agent (a) comprises: (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes, and (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), the agent (a) comprises at least one solvent (a3) selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol, and the agent (a) comprises - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - 0 to 10% by weight of water, as well as - A second container comprising a medicament (b), wherein the medicament (b) comprises - based on the total weight of the medicament (b): (b1) 0 to 35% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fat component, and (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18.
24. The multi-component packaging unit according to claim 23, wherein the keratin material is human hair.
25. A ready-to-use agent for dyeing keratin materials, comprising - based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent - the following substances: (a1) at least one amino-functional silicone polymer, and (a2) at least one coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments, direct dyes, photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes, and (a3) optionally at least one solvent (a3), the agent (a) comprising at least one solvent (a3) selected from the group consisting of 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol, and (b1) 0 to 35% by weight of water, and (b2) at least one fat component, and (b3) optionally at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein the components (a1), (a2), (a3), (b1), (b2) and (b3) are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18.
26. The ready-to-use medicament according to claim 25, wherein the keratin material is human hair.
27. The ready-to-use medicament according to claim 25 or 26, It is characterized in that It is prepared by mixing two agents (a) and (b) before application to the keratin material, said agents (a) and (b) and their mixture being as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21.
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