Cosmetic composition and its application

Abstract

The present application discloses a cosmetic composition, which contains an oil gel and an aqueous phase. The water activity value of the aqueous phase is controlled below 0.87, which can greatly reduce the diffusion of water molecules in the aqueous phase into the oil gel and maintain the visual transparency of the oil gel.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a cosmetic composition containing oil gel and application thereof. Background Art

[0002] Oleogel is a common technology used in cosmetics, which is to form gel-like particles or microbeads of oil through oil-soluble thickeners (also called cross-linking agents). In cosmetic products, oleogel particles are usually suspended in the continuous phase of the aqueous solution. This can not only improve the stability of active ingredients by encapsulating them through oleogel, but also enhance the visual effect of the product.

[0003] However, after the oil gel is suspended in the aqueous phase for a period of time, the originally crystal clear appearance of the oil gel will turn into turbidity, which greatly affects its visual aesthetics. Summary of the invention

[0004] In view of the problem that the oil gel in cosmetics in the prior art becomes turbid, the inventors conducted in-depth research and found that the thickener in the oil gel is usually polar, which makes the water molecules diffuse into the oil gel after it comes into contact with the water phase, causing the originally crystal clear oil gel to become turbid. For this reason, the applicant unexpectedly found that setting the water activity of the water phase to a specific range can solve the above technical problems, thereby completing the present invention.

[0005] The specific technical solutions of the present invention are as follows:

[0006] A cosmetic composition comprising an oil gel and an aqueous phase, wherein the water activity of the aqueous phase is 0.87 or less.

[0007] 2. The composition according to item 1, wherein the water activity is less than 0.87, preferably, the water activity is 0.50-0.80.

[0008] 3. According to the composition of item 1 or 2, the aqueous phase further contains excipients and active ingredients acceptable in cosmetics.

[0009] 4. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 3, wherein the oil gel contains an oil-soluble thickener and an oil phase.

[0010] 5. The composition according to any one of items 1 to 4, wherein the oil gel further contains an oil-soluble active ingredient.

[0011] 6. A method for maintaining the transparency of an oil gel, comprising dispersing the oil gel in an aqueous phase having a water activity of less than 0.87.

[0012] 7. According to the method of item 6, the water activity is less than 0.87, preferably, the water activity is 0.50-0.80.

[0013] 8. According to the method described in item 6 or 7, the aqueous phase contains a substance that forms hydrogen bonds with water. Preferably, the substance that forms hydrogen bonds with water includes a water activity regulator. More preferably, the water activity regulator includes one or two of glycerol and urea.

[0014] 9. According to the method described in any one of items 6 to 8, the aqueous phase further contains excipients and active ingredients acceptable in cosmetics.

[0015] 10. The method according to any one of items 6 to 9, wherein the oil gel contains an oil-soluble thickener and an oil phase.

[0016] 11. The method according to any one of items 6 to 10, wherein the oil gel further contains an oil-soluble active ingredient.

[0017] 12. Use of an aqueous phase in maintaining the transparency of an oil gel, wherein the water activity of the aqueous phase is below 0.87, preferably, the water activity is less than 0.87, and more preferably, the water activity is 0.50-0.80.

[0018] 13. The use according to item 12, wherein the aqueous phase contains a substance that forms hydrogen bonds with water, preferably, the substance that forms hydrogen bonds with water includes a water activity regulator, more preferably, the water activity regulator includes one or two of glycerol and urea.

[0019] 14. The use according to item 12 or 13, wherein the aqueous phase further contains excipients and active ingredients acceptable in cosmetics.

[0020] Effects of the Invention

[0021] The present invention controls the water activity value of the water phase to be below 0.87, thereby greatly reducing the diffusion of water molecules in the water phase into the oil gel, thereby maintaining the visual transparency of the oil gel and improving the aesthetics of the oil gel in the cosmetics. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0022] Figure 1 Schematic diagrams of the state of the oil gel in the prior art after contact with water for 1 hour and 24 hours after the contact, wherein A is a schematic diagram of the state of the oil gel after contact with water for 1 hour, and Figure B is a schematic diagram of the state of the oil gel 24 hours after the contact. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0023] The present invention is described in detail below in conjunction with the embodiments described in the accompanying drawings, wherein the same numerals in all the accompanying drawings represent the same features. Although specific embodiments of the present invention are shown in the accompanying drawings, it should be understood that the present invention can be implemented in various forms and should not be limited by the embodiments described herein. On the contrary, these embodiments are provided in order to enable a more thorough understanding of the present invention and to fully convey the scope of the present invention to those skilled in the art.

[0024] It should be noted that certain words are used in the specification and claims to refer to specific components. Those skilled in the art should understand that technicians may use different nouns to refer to the same component. This specification and claims do not use the difference in nouns as a way to distinguish components, but use the difference in the functions of the components as the criterion for distinction. As mentioned throughout the specification and claims, "including" or "comprising" are open-ended terms and should be interpreted as "including but not limited to". The subsequent description of the specification is a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the description is based on the general principles of the specification and is not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. The scope of protection of the present invention shall be determined by the attached claims.

[0025] The present application has found through experiments that after the oil gel comes into contact with the water phase, water molecules will diffuse into it, causing the originally crystal clear oil gel to become turbid, greatly affecting its visual aesthetics. For example, the oil gel is composed of 10% castor oil / isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) copolymer and 90% caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride. The oil gel is placed in water and the state after standing for 1 hour is as follows: Figure 1 As described in A, the state after standing for 24 hours is as follows Figure 1 As shown in B, the upper layer is oil gel and the lower layer is water. Figure 1 It can be seen from A and B in that after standing for 1 hour, the oil gel is transparent. The water content in the oil gel is measured using conventional methods in the art, and the water content in the oil gel is 0. After standing for 24 hours, the oil gel becomes turbid, and the water content is 0.75%, indicating that water diffuses into the oil gel, making the oil gel turbid.

[0026] In the present application, since the water activity of the aqueous phase is set to be below 0.87, it can be ensured that the oil gel does not become turbid after being in contact with the aqueous phase for a long time. The water activity of the aqueous phase can further be less than 0.87, or 0.50-0.80.

[0027] In one or more embodiments, the water activity of the aqueous phase may be 0.86, 0.85, 0.80, 0.75, 0.70, 0.65, 0.60, 0.55, 0.50, 0.45, 0.40, etc.

[0028] In the present application, there is no limitation on the method for determining the water activity in the aqueous phase, which can be determined according to conventional methods in the art, such as using a water activity tester commonly used in the art. Preferably, the water activity of pure water is first determined to verify the accuracy of the water activity tester, and then the water activity of the aqueous phase is determined to obtain the water activity of the aqueous phase.

[0029] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase contains a substance that forms hydrogen bonds with water. Preferably, the substance that forms hydrogen bonds with water includes a water activity regulator. Preferably, the water activity regulator includes one or both of glycerol and urea.

[0030] In the present application, the water activity regulator refers to a substance that regulates the water activity in the water phase.

[0031] In the present application, the water activity of the aqueous phase is adjusted by a water activity regulator, thereby avoiding turbidity after the oil gel and the aqueous phase are in contact for a long time.

[0032] In some embodiments, the aqueous phase further contains cosmetically acceptable excipients, active ingredients, etc., and the excipients include thickeners, preservatives, dyes, etc.

[0033] In the present application, there is no limitation on thickeners, preservatives, active ingredients and dyes, which can be conventionally selected as needed. For example, the thickener can be carbomer, xanthan gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, etc.; the preservative can be paraben, phenoxyethanol, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM ​​hydantoin, quaternary ammonium salt, etc.; the active ingredient can be vitamins and their derivatives, polypeptides, sodium hyaluronate, amino acids, etc.; the dye can be a natural dye or a synthetic dye, such as lycopene, carotene, capsaicin, etc.; the synthetic dye can be CI19140, CI 16185, CI 16255, CI 42090.

[0034] In the present application, there is no limitation on the content of thickener, preservative, active ingredient and / or dye in the water phase, and they can be added according to the content commonly used in the art.

[0035] In some embodiments, the added amount of thickener can be 0.01-5%, for example 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% and the like; the added amount of preservative can be 0.01-3%, for example 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% and the like; the added amount of active ingredient can be 0.001-5%, for example 0.001%, 0.005%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% and the like; the added amount of dye can be 0.001-0.1%, for example 0.001%, 0.005%, 0.01%, 0.05%, 0.1% and the like.

[0036] In some embodiments, the present application provides a cosmetic composition comprising an oil gel and the above-mentioned aqueous phase.

[0037] In some embodiments, the present application also provides a method for maintaining the transparency of an oil gel, comprising dispersing the oil gel in the above-mentioned aqueous phase.

[0038] In some embodiments, the oil gel contains an oil-soluble thickener and oil. Preferably, the oil-soluble thickener includes a weakly polar polymer that can form a 3D spatial network structure that encapsulates oil esters and has thermodynamic reversibility; further, the oil-soluble thickener includes one or more of fatty acid and alicyclic cyanate polymers, polyesters, and glutamine polymers; more specifically, the oil-soluble thickener includes one or more of castor oil / isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) copolymer, dibutyl lauroyl glutamine, dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamine, and dextrin myristate. Preferably, the oil includes liquid oil esters, and further, the oil includes one or more of glycerides, hydrocarbons, or ester waxes; wherein glycerides may include triglycerides, diglycerides, and monoglycerides; hydrocarbons may be saturated hydrocarbons, unsaturated hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof; ester waxes are monoesters formed by fatty acids and fatty alcohols. More specifically, the oil includes one or more of caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate, tri(ethylhexanoin), pentaerythritol (ethylhexanoin), isononyl isononanoate and meadowfoam seed oil.

[0039] In the present application, there is no limitation on the content of the oil-soluble thickener or the oil in the oil gel, which is the content commonly used in the art. For example, in terms of the mass percentage in the oil gel, the oil-soluble thickener may be 0.5-50%, and the oil may be 50-99.5%. For example, the oil-soluble thickener is 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18%, 19%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%; the oil ester is 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 91%, 92%, 93%, 94%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%.

[0040] In the present application, the oil gel may be an oil gel with a uniform texture, or an oil gel encapsulating other aqueous phases, or an oil gel encapsulated by a hydrogel.

[0041] In some embodiments, the oil gel further comprises an oil-soluble substance, including but not limited to retinol propionate, ceramide, salicylic acid, and the like.

[0042] In some embodiments, the present application also provides use of the above-mentioned aqueous phase in maintaining the transparency of the above-mentioned oil gel.

[0043] In the present application, the transparency of the oil gel can also be determined by measuring the water content in the oil gel. In the present application, the method for measuring the water content in the oil gel is not limited in any way, and the water content in the oil gel can be measured according to conventional methods in the art, for example, the water content in the oil gel can be measured by the Karl Fischer method, for example, the water content in the oil gel can be measured using the KF reagent, for example, the sample can be titrated using the KF reagent, and the water content in the oil gel can be calculated by the consumption of the KF reagent.

[0044] In the present application, there is no limitation on the test of the transparency of the oil gel, which can be measured according to conventional methods in the art. For example, the transparency of the oil gel can be determined by the principle of light transmittance. For example, a blue line is used as the background, and the blue line is observed through the oil gel to see whether it is visible. If the blue line is visible, the oil gel is judged to be clear, otherwise, the oil gel is judged to be turbid.

[0045] Example

[0046] The present invention generally and / or specifically describes the materials and test methods used in the experiments. In the following examples, unless otherwise specified, % represents wt%, i.e., weight percentage. The reagents or instruments used without indicating the manufacturer are all conventional reagent products that can be obtained commercially. Table 1 is a table of the sources of the raw materials and equipment used in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

[0047] Table 1 Sources of raw materials and equipment used in the examples and comparative examples

[0048] Raw material name Manufacturer & Model Castor oil / isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) copolymer (EM) France, Polymerexpert Caprylic / capric triglyceride (GTCC) BASF, cosmetic grade Dicaprylyl carbonate Enovic, cosmetic grade Isononyl Isononanoate BASF, cosmetic grade Lignum Meadowfoam Seed Oil Xianting, cosmetic grade Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamine Qianye flour, cosmetic grade Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamine Qianye flour, cosmetic grade Dextrin myristate Qianye flour, cosmetic grade Glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate) BASF, cosmetic grade Pentaerythritol ethylhexanoate BASF, cosmetic grade Agar Merrill, purity greater than 99% Urea Merck, cosmetic grade Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer (AVC) Clariant, cosmetic grade Moisture Analyzer ZDY-501, Lei magnetic Intelligent water activity measuring instrument HD-6, Wuxi Huake

[0049] Example 1

[0050] Preparation of water phase: A water activity regulator is added to water to obtain a water phase. The content of the water activity regulator in the water phase is shown in Table 2. The water activity and viscosity of the water phase are measured. The water activity is measured as follows:

[0051] Water activity is to measure the vapor pressure of water in a sample in a closed space and compare it with the saturated vapor pressure of pure water at that temperature. It can be measured using the Wuxi Huake HD-6 water activity tester (or equivalent equipment). First, the water activity of pure water needs to be measured to verify the accuracy of the equipment. The measured value of pure water needs to be between 0.995 and 1.000. In this experiment, the measured value of water activity of pure water is 0.999. In the sample test, 10 to 15 g of water phase sample is prepared, placed in a covered culture dish, left to balance at room temperature for 15 minutes, and then placed in the sensor of the water activity meter. When the reading of the water activity tester is stable, the water activity value of the sample is recorded. The same sample is tested 3 times and the average value is taken. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0052] The viscosity is measured as follows: Use a Brookfield DV2T viscometer (or equivalent equipment) and select a rotor with a viscosity range of 0.5 to 40,000 cP. Place the sample to be tested in the sample tank, set the rotor speed to 60 rpm, wait for the speed to stabilize for 30 seconds, and then read the viscosity value.

[0053] The viscosity of the obtained aqueous phase is shown in Table 2.

[0054] Preparation of oil gel: The thickener and the oil are mixed to obtain the oil gel, wherein the contents of the thickener and the oil are as shown in Table 2.

[0055] After mixing the oil gel and the water phase, the compositions obtained were numbered Case-5 to Case-14 and Case-18, wherein the state of the oil gel observed after standing at 45°C for 10 days is shown in Table 3, and the water content of the oil gel when in contact with the water phase and after standing at 45°C for 10 days is shown in Table 3, wherein the state of the oil gel was determined by the following method:

[0056] Using the principle of light transmittance, with the blue lines as the background, observe whether the blue lines are visible through the oil phase. If the blue lines are visible, the oil phase is clear, otherwise, the oil phase is turbid.

[0057] The moisture content is determined as follows:

[0058] The water content in the sample is determined by the Karl Fischer method, which uses water to participate in the redox reaction of iodine and sulfur dioxide, the main components of the KF reagent, to determine the water content in the composition. In this reaction, water and I2 react with SO2, and 1 mole of water is consumed for every 1 mole of reaction. That is, 1 mL of KF reagent is consumed and 4 mg of water is titrated, and the water content in the composition can be finally determined based on the consumption of the KF reagent.

[0059] In the experiment, Leici ZDY-501 equipment (or equivalent equipment) is used for measurement. During the test, 2.00g of sample is first accurately weighed and added to the sample pool of the equipment. The KF reagent is turned on for automatic titration. The titration is completed when the current indicates that the endpoint has been reached. The water content in the sample is calibrated by measuring the volume of Karl Fischer reagent consumed.

[0060] Comparative Example 1

[0061] Preparation of aqueous phase: A water activity regulator is added to water to obtain an aqueous phase. The content of the water activity regulator in the aqueous phase is shown in Table 2, and the water activity and viscosity of the aqueous phase are measured. The water activity and viscosity are measured in the same manner as in Example 1, and the results are shown in Table 2.

[0062] Preparation of oil gel: The thickener and the oil are mixed to obtain the oil gel, wherein the contents of the thickener and the oil are as shown in Table 2.

[0063] After mixing the oil gel and the water phase, the compositions were numbered Case-1 to Case-4 and Case-15 to Case-17, respectively, wherein the state of the oil gel was observed in the same manner as in Example 1 after standing at 45°C for 10 days, as shown in Table 3. The water content of the oil gel when in contact with the water phase and after standing at 45°C for 10 days is shown in Table 3, wherein the method for determining the water content is the same as in Example 1.

[0064] Table 2 Component contents of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 and water activity and viscosity of the aqueous phase

[0065] serial number Oil phase composition Water phase composition Water activity of aqueous phase Water phase viscosity (cP) Case-1 10%EM+90%GTCC 100% Water 0.999 1.72 Case-2 10%EM+90%GTCC 10% glycerin, 90% water 0.986 3.10 Case-3 10%EM+90%GTCC 20% glycerin, 80% water 0.954 3.60 Case-4 10%EM+90%GTCC 30% glycerin, 70% water 0.901 4.50 Case-5 10%EM+90%GTCC 40% glycerin, 60% water 0.864 5.40 Case-6 10%EM+90%GTCC 50% glycerin, 50% water 0.803 7.10 Case-7 10%EM+90%GTCC 60% glycerin, 40% water 0.734 10.20 Case-8 10%EM+90%GTCC 70% glycerin, 30% water 0.625 18.80 Case-9 10%EM+90%GTCC 80% glycerin, 20% water 0.513 43.60 Case-10 10%EM+90%Dicaprylyl Carbonate 80% glycerin, 20% water 0.513 43.60 Case-11 10% EM + 90% triethylhexanoin 80% glycerin, 20% water 0.513 43.60 Case-12 10%EM+90%isononyl isononanoate 80% glycerin, 20% water 0.512 43.60 Case-13 10%EM+90%Meadowfoam Seed Oil 80% glycerin, 20% water 0.513 43.60 Case-14 5% Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamine + 95% GTCC 80% glycerin, 20% water 0.510 43.60 Case-15 10%EM+90%GTCC 2% agar, 98% water 0.901 31000 Case-16 10%EM+90%GTCC 0.5% AVC, 95% water 0.982 25980 Case-17 10%EM+90%GTCC 30% urea, 70% water 0.916 4.15 Case-18 10%EM+90%GTCC 50% urea, 90% water 0.803 4.61

[0066] Table 3 Water content in the oil gel of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 and the state of the oil gel

[0067]

[0068]

[0069] In addition, when the oil gel and the water phase just came into contact in Case-1 to Case-9, the blue lines as the background were clearly visible. After standing at 45°C for 10 days, the oil phases of Case-1-4 and Case-15-17 became turbid and the background lines could not be observed through the oil phase, while the background lines could be observed through the oil phase in other cases.

[0070] After the two phases come into contact, due to the density difference, the oil phase is located at the top of the glass bottle and the water phase is located at the bottom of the glass bottle. In the fresh state, both phases are transparent. The glass bottle is placed in a 45°C oven for aging for 10 days, taken out, cooled to room temperature, and the transparency of the oil phase is observed. In order to better judge the transparency, a blue ribbon is placed outside the glass bottle, and the ribbon is observed through the oil gel and the glass bottle. If the ribbon is visible, the oil phase is judged to be transparent (that is, the color of the oil phase in the glass bottle is darker), otherwise the oil phase is judged to be turbid (that is, the color of the oil phase in the glass bottle is lighter).

[0071] As can be seen from Table 2, when the oil gel and the water phase just come into contact, the oil gels of Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are both transparent. However, after standing at 45° C. for 10 days, the oil gel of Example 1 is transparent, while the oil gel of Comparative Example 1 is turbid. This indicates that the water phase described in Example 1 contains a substance that can form a strong hydrogen bond with water, which can reduce the water activity in the water phase and the water content in the oil gel, thereby maintaining the transparency of the oil gel.

[0072] In addition, it can be seen from Tables 2 and 3 that both low-viscosity and high-viscosity aqueous phases cannot maintain the transparency of the oil gel, which indicates that the viscosity of the aqueous phase is not a factor affecting the transparency of the oil gel. In order to maintain the transparency of the oil gel in the aqueous phase, the water activity of the aqueous phase needs to be controlled below 0.87.

[0073] The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and does not limit the present invention in other forms. Any technician familiar with the profession may use the above disclosed technical content to change or modify it into an equivalent embodiment with equivalent changes. However, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical essence of the present invention without departing from the technical solution of the present invention still belongs to the protection scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a visually transparent oil gel and an aqueous phase, wherein the water activity of the aqueous phase is 0.87 or less, the oil gel comprises an oil-soluble thickener and an oil phase, wherein the oil-soluble thickener comprises a weakly polar polymer that can form a 3D spatial network structure encapsulating oil esters and has thermodynamic reversibility; The water phase contains a substance that forms a hydrogen bond with water, and the substance that forms a hydrogen bond with water includes a water activity regulator.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the water activity is less than 0.

87.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the water activity is 0.50-0.

80.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase further contains cosmetically acceptable excipients and active ingredients.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the oil gel further contains an oil-soluble active ingredient.

6. A method for maintaining the transparency of an oil gel, comprising dispersing the oil gel in an aqueous phase having a water activity of less than 0.87; The oil gel contains an oil-soluble thickener and an oil phase, wherein the oil-soluble thickener includes a weakly polar polymer that can form a 3D spatial network structure encapsulating oil esters and has thermodynamic reversibility; The water phase contains a substance that forms a hydrogen bond with water, and the substance that forms a hydrogen bond with water includes a water activity regulator.

7. The method according to claim 6, wherein the water activity is less than 0.

87.

8. The method according to claim 6, wherein the water activity is 0.50-0.

80.

9. The method according to claim 6, wherein the water activity regulator comprises one or both of glycerol and urea.

10. The method according to claim 6, wherein the aqueous phase further contains cosmetically acceptable excipients and active ingredients.

11. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 10, wherein the oil gel further comprises an oil-soluble active ingredient.

12. Use of an aqueous phase for maintaining the transparency of an oil gel, wherein: The water activity of the aqueous phase is below 0.87, the oil gel contains an oil-soluble thickener and an oil phase, and the oil-soluble thickener includes a weakly polar polymer that can form a 3D spatial network structure that encapsulates oil esters and has thermodynamic reversibility; The water phase contains a substance that forms a hydrogen bond with water, and the substance that forms a hydrogen bond with water includes a water activity regulator.

13. The use according to claim 12, wherein the water activity is less than 0.

87.

14. The use according to claim 12, wherein the water activity is 0.50-0.

80.

15. The use according to claim 14, wherein the water activity regulator comprises one or both of glycerol and urea.

16. The use according to any one of claims 12 to 15, wherein the aqueous phase further contains cosmetically acceptable excipients and active ingredients.

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