A method of stabilizing the shrinkage of stretched refined wool

Abstract

The application provides a method for stabilizing the longitudinal shrinkage of stretch-refined wool, which comprises the following steps in sequence: not steaming in the spinning process; controlling the doffing frequency in the doubling process, and the weight of the warp yarn ball is less than or equal to 0.50 kg per ball when doffing; using concentrated steaming for the warp yarn ball and not steaming for the weft yarn ball in the steaming process; and after the moisture regain time is reached, the warp yarn balls of the same steaming time are concentrated and transferred in the warping process. The method has the advantages of high textile and weaving production efficiency, simple process and convenient operation. By using the method, the problem of the longitudinal path of the wool surface caused by the unstable elastic shrinkage of the stretch-refined wool is solved without adding sizing material, and the appearance quality of the wool surface product is improved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to the field of textile technology, and specifically to a method for stabilizing and refining the warp shrinkage rate of wool. Background Technology

[0002] Wool stretching and refining is a new type of modified wool produced by stretching wool fibers to change the molecular shape from α-type to β-type, and then fixing it to achieve the purpose of thinning the side length. It is a combination of processes and technologies. Due to the changes in appearance and structure, stretch-refined wool has a higher luster and less crimp compared with ordinary wool fibers before modification. It also has a certain price advantage and gives traditional worsted wool fabrics a unique product style. It is thinner, lighter, softer, has excellent drape, a smooth hand feel, bright colors, and a high-end style.

[0003] The use of stretched and refined wool fibers not only improves the quality of wool fabrics but also reduces raw material costs. Therefore, wool fabrics made using this fiber have a certain market demand and broad market prospects. However, actual production shows that stretched and refined wool fibers, due to their elongation of 40% or more during the stretching process, have unstable shrinkage elasticity. As a result, their processing difficulty is greater than that of ordinary wool fibers, and the unstable shrinkage elasticity can also lead to warp defects in the produced wool fabrics, seriously affecting the appearance quality of the wool fabrics.

[0004] It is evident that providing a method for treating finely drawn wool fibers with stable warp shrinkage is of great significance for wool fabric production. Summary of the Invention

[0005] To address the aforementioned shortcomings of existing technologies, this invention provides a method for stabilizing the warp shrinkage rate of stretched and refined wool. This method, by eliminating steaming during the spinning process, controlling the number of yarn doffings during the twisting process, and controlling the yarn arrangement during the warping process, solves the problem of unstable warp shrinkage caused by the shrinkage elasticity of stretched and refined wool without adding sizing agents, thus improving the appearance quality of the woolen product. The method of this invention has the advantages of high efficiency in textile and weaving production, and is simple and easy to operate.

[0006] The technical solution of the present invention is as follows:

[0007] A method for stabilizing and refining the warp shrinkage rate of wool, comprising the following steps:

[0008] No steaming is performed during the spinning process; during the doubling process, the number of times the yarn is dropped is controlled, and the weight of the warp yarn bundles is ≤0.50kg / bundle when they come off the machine; during the steaming process, the warp yarn bundles are steamed in a concentrated manner, while the weft yarn bundles are not steamed; during the warping process, after the moisture regain time is reached, the warp yarn bundles that have been steamed for the same time are transferred together, and no sizing agent is added during this process.

[0009] Traditional steaming processes inevitably result in uneven steaming and variations within the yarn bundle. This invention, by eliminating steaming, effectively avoids warp shrinkage caused by uneven steaming. Furthermore, the stretching and refining of wool fibers means that traditional steaming affects yarn quality; therefore, this invention, by eliminating steaming, ensures the quality of the finer wool yarn. Controlling the number of doffing cycles involves controlling the yarn bundle weight—the bundle should not be too large, but smaller than conventional varieties—and ensuring sufficient doffing frequency to support subsequent warping. Warping is based on the number of doffing cycles, and slight variations exist between each doffing cycle; this also aims to reduce the impact of these variations on warp shrinkage. Through process control in this invention, variations in yarn shrinkage are reduced, preventing warp defects in the fabric surface.

[0010] Preferably, the stretched and refined wool is made from dyed ordinary wool fibers, wherein the fineness of the dyed ordinary wool fibers is 18.0-19.5μm, and the fineness of the stretched and refined wool fibers is 16.0-17.5μm.

[0011] Preferably, the stretched and refined wool is produced using a wool worsting machine - a compact spinning machine, and the produced warp and weft yarn tufts are not steamed.

[0012] Preferably, in the doubling process, the warp yarn bundles coming off the machine are steamed in a concentrated manner using a vacuum steaming method, with a steaming temperature of 85±1℃, a steaming time of 10-15 minutes, and a steaming frequency of 1 time.

[0013] Preferably, in the twisting process, when the yarn weight of the warp and weft yarn bundles is <400kg, one twisting machine is used; when the yarn weight of the warp and weft yarn bundles is ≥400kg, two twisting machines are used.

[0014] Preferably, when two twisting machines are used for production, the number of doffing times of a single twisting machine is an even multiple.

[0015] Preferably, in the steaming process, when the amount of warp yarn in a spool is less than 400 kg, it is steamed in one go; when the amount of warp yarn in a spool is greater than or equal to 400 kg, 400 warp yarn spools are steamed as a group in one go.

[0016] Preferably, after the steaming process, the steamed warp yarn bundle is refrigerated for 16-24 hours.

[0017] Preferably, in the warping process, the warp yarn spools after refrigeration are concentrated and transferred. For warping yarn arrangement, if a single twisting machine produces spools that only undergo one pass of warping, the warping process proceeds normally; if a single twisting machine produces spools that undergo two passes of warping, the warping process follows a 1A1B arrangement. The yarn spools must be original spools; broken spools are prohibited. No sizing is added during warping to avoid incomplete sizing treatment of the fabric surface. During this process, the warp yarn amount is accurately calculated, with one pass per warp beam. Yarn changes are not allowed midway to reduce the amount of remaining yarn at the bottom. Excess yarn at the bottom beam is not used; the remaining small bottom yarn is used for the selvage of the next beam, reducing yarn consumption.

[0018] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0019] 1. In this invention, by not steaming the yarn in the spinning process, controlling the number of yarn drops in the twisting process, and controlling the yarn arrangement in the warping process, the problem of unstable shrinkage elasticity of stretched and refined wool causing warp threads on the fabric surface is solved without adding sizing agents, thereby improving the appearance quality of the fabric products.

[0020] 2. Compared with the prior art, the method of the present invention has the advantages of high production efficiency in textile and weaving, and the process is simple, easy to operate, and does not require high equipment. At the same time, it saves labor and labor costs, thereby reducing production costs. Attached Figure Description

[0021] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, for those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.

[0022] Figure 1 This is a photograph of the fabric obtained in Example 1.

[0023] Figure 2 This is a photograph of the fabric obtained in Example 2.

[0024] Figure 3 The image shown is a photograph of a radial defect, which is used as a comparison example 1. Detailed Implementation

[0025] To enable those skilled in the art to better understand the technical solutions of this invention, the technical solutions of this invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of this invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of this invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of this invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort should fall within the scope of protection of this invention.

[0026] Example 1

[0027] A method for stabilizing and refining the warp shrinkage rate of wool, the process is as follows:

[0028] (1) Dyed ordinary wool with a fineness of 18.04μm is made into stretched and refined wool with a fineness of 16.02μm, and 100% stretched and refined wool worsted fabric products are made.

[0029] (2) The stretched and refined wool was produced using a wool worsting machine - compact spinning fine yarn 451C3 model. The actual count of the warp yarn was 98.8, the weight was 0.506g / 50m, the draft ratio was 23.72, and the twist was 850T / M. The actual count of the weft yarn was 98.0, the weight was 0.510g / 50m, the draft ratio was 23.53, and the twist was 850T / M. The twist direction of the single yarn was Z. The resulting warp and weft fine yarn tassels were not steamed.

[0030] (3) Twist the single yarn obtained in step (2) into a ply yarn, and use a double twisting VTS-08 machine to add twist to the ply yarn. The warp twist is 950T / M, the weft twist is 700T / M, the ply yarn twist direction is S, and after the yarn is twisted, the breaking strength of the warp yarn is 143.2cN and the breaking strength of the weft yarn is 148.6cN.

[0031] Each twisted ball weighs 0.38 kg. On a twisting machine, the number of yarn feeds is an even multiple. In this example, two shifts each produce 190 twisted balls, for a total of 380 twisted balls.

[0032] (4) The warp yarn bundles obtained in step (3) are steamed using a vacuum method. The steaming temperature is 85℃, the steaming time is 10min, and one cycle of steaming is performed. The weft yarn bundles are not steamed.

[0033] (5) After the steamed warp yarn ball in step (4) is taken out of the machine, it is stored and cooled for 24 hours before being rotated into a warp beam;

[0034] (6) The cooled warp yarn obtained in step (5) is warped using a Swiss Beninger ERGOTEC warping machine. The warping is arranged in a 1A1B mix according to the number of double twisted yarns produced by the shift. The number of reeds inserted per warp is 5, the compression coefficient is 0.85, the automatic tension is 16, the warping density is 420, the rewind tension is 850, and the pressure roller pressure is 1150.

[0035] Example 2

[0036] A method for stabilizing and refining the warp shrinkage rate of wool, the process is as follows:

[0037] (1) Dyed ordinary wool with a fineness of 18.02μm is made into stretched and refined wool with a fineness of 16.43μm, and 100% stretched and refined wool worsted fabric products are made.

[0038] (2) The stretched and refined wool was produced using a wool worsting machine - compact spinning fine yarn 451C3 model. The actual count of the warp yarn was 100.2, the weight was 0.499g / 50m, the draft ratio was 24.05, and the twist was 850T / M. The actual count of the weft yarn was 98.0, the weight was 0.510g / 50m, the draft ratio was 23.53, the twist was 850T / M, and the twist direction of the single yarn was Z. The resulting warp and weft fine yarn tassels were not steamed.

[0039] (3) Twist the single yarn obtained in step (2) into a ply yarn, and use a double twisting VTS-08 machine to add twist to the ply yarn. The warp twist is 950T / M, the weft twist is 700T / M, the ply yarn twist direction is S, and after the yarn is twisted, the breaking strength of the warp yarn is 148cN and the breaking strength of the weft yarn is 152.4cN.

[0040] The yarn is twisted in an even number of times to form a ball, and each twisted ball weighs 0.42 kg. On a twisting machine, the number of yarn feeds is an even number of times. In this example, two shifts each produce 173 twisted balls, for a total of 346 twisted balls.

[0041] (4) The warp yarn bundles obtained in step (3) are steamed using a vacuum method. The steaming temperature is 85℃, the steaming time is 10min, and one cycle of steaming is performed. The weft yarn bundles are not steamed.

[0042] (5) After the steamed warp yarn ball in step (4) is taken out of the machine, it is stored and cooled for 24 hours before being rotated into a warp beam;

[0043] (6) The cooled warp yarn obtained in step (5) is warped using a Swiss Beninger ERGOTEC warping machine. The warping is arranged in a 1A1B mix according to the number of twisted yarns produced by the shift. The number of reeds inserted per warp is 5, the compression coefficient is 0.85, the automatic tension is 16, the warping density is 420, the rewind tension is 860, and the pressure roller pressure is 1160.

[0044] The stretched and refined wool worsted fabrics prepared in Examples 1-2 have excellent surface quality, see... Figure 1 and Figure 2 The warp does not show any obvious shrinkage problem, and it has a smooth feel, good drape, and a high-end style.

[0045] The stretched and refined wool worsted fabric provided in Examples 1-2 was tested according to the testing items in the national standard GB / T26382-2011 Combed Wool Fabrics. The quality was excellent and all test items were qualified.

[0046] Comparative Example 1

[0047] The existing technology for producing stretched and refined wool products involves the following process:

[0048] (1) Dyed ordinary wool with a fineness of 18.5μm is made into stretched and refined wool with a fineness of 16.7μm, and 100% stretched and refined wool worsted fabric products are made.

[0049] (2) The stretched and refined wool was produced using a wool worsting machine - compact spinning fine yarn 451C3 model. The actual count of the warp yarn was 100.2, the weight was 0.499g / 50m, the draft ratio was 24.05, and the twist was 850T / M. The actual count of the weft yarn was 98.0, the weight was 0.510g / 50m, the draft ratio was 23.53, the twist was 850T / M, and the twist direction of the single yarn was Z. The resulting warp fine yarn was steamed at a temperature of 85±1℃ for 10min, and one cycle of steaming was performed.

[0050] (3) Twist the single yarn obtained in step (2) into a ply yarn, and use a double twisting VTS-08 machine to add twist to the ply yarn. The warp twist is 950T / M, the weft twist is 700T / M, the ply yarn twist direction is S, and after the yarn is twisted, the breaking strength of the warp yarn is 164.5cN and the breaking strength of the weft yarn is 165.3cN.

[0051] Each twisted yarn ball weighs 0.25 kg. On 3 twisting machines, the yarn is fed 3 times. In this comparative example, 193 twisted yarn balls are fed from 1 twisting machine, for a total of 579 twisted yarn balls.

[0052] (4) The warp and weft yarn balls obtained in step (3) are steamed under vacuum. The steaming temperature is 90±1℃ and the steaming time is 20min. Two cycles of steaming are performed.

[0053] (5) After the steamed warp yarn ball in step (4) is taken out of the machine, it is stored and cooled for 24 hours before being rotated into a warp beam;

[0054] (6) The cooled warp yarns obtained in step (5) are warped using a Swiss Beninger ERGOTEC warping machine. For warping, 579 double-twisted yarns are randomly arranged on the machine. The warping thread count per reed is 5, the compression coefficient is 0.85, the automatic tension is 16, the warping density is 420, the rewind tension is 850, and the pressure roller pressure is 1150. See the product photo below. Figure 3 .

[0055] Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to preferred embodiments, it is not limited thereto. Various equivalent modifications or substitutions can be made to the embodiments of the present invention by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and essence of the invention, and such modifications or substitutions should all be within the scope of the present invention. Any variations or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope disclosed in the present invention should also be covered within the protection scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention should be determined by the scope of the claims.

Claims

1. A method of stabilizing the longitudinal shrinkage of stretch-refined wool characterized in that, Comprise in turn: In the drawing process, the yarn is not steamed; in the doubling process, the number of doffing is controlled, and the weight of the warp package is ≤0.50 kg / each when it is taken off; in the steaming process, the warp package is concentrated steamed, and the weft package is not steamed; in the warping process, the warp package of the same steaming time is concentrated after the moisture regain time is reached; In the doubling process, when the yarn amount of the warp package and the weft package is <400 kg, one doubling machine is used for production; when the yarn amount of the warp package and the weft package is ≥400 kg, two doubling machines are used for production; When two doubling machines are used for production, the number of doffing of a single doubling machine is an even multiple; In the warping process, the warp package after cold storage is concentrated; in the warping and winding process, one doubling machine produces and only doffs 1 time, and the warping process is normally used; one doubling machine produces and doffs 2 times, and the warping process is arranged according to 1A1B.

2. A method of stabilizing the shrinkage of stretch-refined wool in the warp direction according to claim 1, characterized in that, The stretched and refined wool is made of dyed common wool fibers, wherein the fineness of the dyed common wool fibers is 18.0-19.5 μm, and the fineness of the stretched and refined wool fibers is 16.0-17.5 μm.

3. The method of stabilizing the shrinkage of stretch-refined wool in the warp direction according to claim 1, characterized by, The stretched and refined wool is produced by using wool spinning equipment-tight spinning frame, and the warp and weft yarn slubs produced are not steamed.

4. The method of stabilizing the shrinkage of stretch-refined wool in the warp direction according to claim 1, characterized by, In the steaming process, the warp package taken off is concentrated steamed by vacuum steaming, the steaming temperature is 85±1℃, the time is 10-15 min, and the number of times is 1.

5. The method of stabilizing the shrinkage of stretch-refined wool in the warp direction according to claim 1, characterized by, In the steaming process, when the yarn amount of the warp package is <400 kg, it is steamed once; when the yarn amount of the warp package is ≥400 kg, 400 warp packages are taken as a group and steamed once.

6. The method of stabilizing the shrinkage of stretch-refined wool in the warp direction according to claim 1, characterized by, After the steaming process, the steamed warp package is cold stored for 16-24 h.

Images