A whitening composition and its preparation method and application
By using a variety of whitening active raw materials in whitening cosmetics and combining with multiple mechanisms of action, the problems of single whitening pathways and unsafe ingredients of existing whitening products have been solved, and efficient and safe whitening effects have been achieved.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202411604636.7
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-11-12
- Publication Date
- 2025-03-07
- Estimated Expiration
- 2044-11-12
AI Technical Summary
There are common whitening cosmetics with single whitening pathways and gaps in action mechanism, resulting in less obvious effects and uneven whitening effects; and some ingredients are unsafe, resulting in allergic side effects.
Provided is a whitening composition, including tea extract, thorny cactus stem extract, thorny cacti extract, raspberry ketoglucoside, ascorbic acid derivative, nicotinamide, coagulation acid, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid and other components. Through the combination of a variety of whitening active raw materials, combined with various mechanisms of action, synergistic effects are exerted.
It achieves multi-faceted whitening, significantly improves the whitening effect, and has no irritation and allergic symptoms, is safe and efficient, and is suitable for all skin types.
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The invention belongs to the field of biotechnology, and specifically relates to a whitening composition and a preparation method and application thereof. Background Art
[0002] Skin pigmentation is regulated by more than 120 genes, which mainly depends on the mutual influence of melanocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis and the adjacent cell tissues, which jointly regulate the synthesis, transport and metabolism of melanin, involving the regulation of multiple cytokines and signals. The research and development of whitening cosmetics requires the study and exploration of the possibility of various whitening pathways based on the physiology of skin pigment metabolism. On the basis of ensuring safety, the mechanism of action of various whitening ingredients should be studied and their whitening effects should be scientifically evaluated, and cosmetics that can truly whiten the skin should be rationally and scientifically formulated. The general skin whitening pathways are: 1. Protection against ultraviolet rays; 2. Intracellular inhibition of melanocytes; 3. Extracellular inhibition of melanocytes; 4. Inhibition of melanin transport; 5. Promotion of stratum corneum renewal; 6. Anti-glycation effect; 7. New hypothesis of skin whitening pathways.
[0003] Current whitening cosmetics generally have the problem of a single whitening pathway and gaps in the mechanism of action, resulting in unclear effects and varying whitening effects; some ingredients are unsafe and cause allergic side effects, making them difficult to be accepted by consumers. Summary of the invention
[0004] The existing whitening cosmetics generally have the problem of a single whitening pathway and a gap in the mechanism of action, which leads to unclear effects and uneven whitening effects; and some ingredients are unsafe and cause allergies. The present invention provides a whitening composition and its preparation method and application. The composition contains tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, saxifrage extract, raspberry ketone glucoside, ascorbic acid derivatives, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid and other ingredients. Based on the problem that existing whitening products generally have only a single pathway and poor whitening effect, a variety of whitening active raw materials are used to combine a variety of whitening pathways with different mechanisms of action to exert a synergistic effect, better solve skin pigmentation problems caused by various factors, and are safe and efficient. The specific technical scheme is as follows:
[0005] A whitening composition comprises the following active ingredients in parts by mass: 0.01 to 10 parts of tea extract, 0.001 to 5 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.01 to 5 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 0.01 to 10 parts of niacinamide, 0.01 to 5 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.01 to 5 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 0.01 to 8 parts of prickly pear cactus stem extract, and 0.001 to 0.1 parts of saxifrage extract.
[0006] The tea extract is a product below 2 kDa obtained by hydrolyzing tea leaves with cellulase and pectinase, followed by stepwise hydrolysis with Bacillus licheniformis protease and Serratia marcescens protease; the spiny cactus stem extract is a product below 2 kDa obtained by hydrolyzing spiny cactus stem flesh with pectinase, bromelain, Bacillus licheniformis protease and Serratia marcescens protease; the saxifrage extract is a product below 2 kDa obtained by hydrolyzing saxifrage leaves with cellulase and pectinase, followed by stepwise hydrolysis with pepsin and carboxypeptidase B.
[0007] In the above technical solution, the ascorbic acid derivative is one or more combinations of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
[0008] In the above technical scheme, the composition includes the following active ingredients in parts by mass: 1 to 8 parts of tea extract, 0.5 to 3 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.5 to 3 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 1 to 8 parts of niacinamide, 0.5 to 3 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.5 to 3 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 1 to 5 parts of prickly pear cactus stem extract, and 0.01 to 0.1 parts of saxifrage extract.
[0009] In the above technical scheme, the preparation method of the tea extract comprises the following steps: taking tea leaves for crushing, adding water of 8 to 10 times the mass of the tea leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.0 to 5.5, adding cellulase and pectinase, enzymolysis at 40°C to 45°C for 3h to 4h, adjusting the pH to 9 to 11, adding Bacillus licheniformis protease, enzymolysis at 40°C to 55°C for 1h to 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme, cooling to 37°C to 40°C, adjusting the pH to 8.5 to 9.5, adding Serratia protease, enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 1.5h to 2h, inactivating the enzyme, filtering through a mesh to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain a tea extract.
[0010] In the preparation method of the tea extract, the added amounts of the cellulase, pectinase, Bacillus licheniformis protease and Serratia protease are all 0.3% to 2.0% of the mass of the tea leaves; the enzyme inactivation temperature is 80°C to 90°C, and the time is 10min to 20min; the mesh size of the sieve is 200 to 300 meshes.
[0011] In the above technical scheme, the preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking the peeled twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 15 to 20 times the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 4.0 to 5.0, adding pectinase, enzymolysis at 45°C to 55°C for 2h to 3h, adjusting the pH to 6.0 to 7.5, adding bromelain, enzymolysis at 50°C to 60°C for 1.5h to 2h, inactivating the enzyme, cooling to room temperature, adjusting the pH to 9 to 11, adding Bacillus licheniformis protease, enzymolysis at 40°C to 55°C for 1h to 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme, cooling to 37°C to 40°C, adjusting the pH to 8.5 to 9.5, adding Serratia protease, enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 1h to 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme, filtering through a mesh to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate using a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0012] In the preparation method of the above-mentioned twisted prickly cactus stem extract, the added amount of pectinase, bromelain, Bacillus licheniformis protease and Serratia protease is 0.3% to 2.0% of the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh; the enzyme inactivation temperature is 80°C to 90°C, and the time is 10min to 20min; the mesh size of the sieve is 200 mesh to 300 mesh.
[0013] In the above technical scheme, the preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: taking saxifrage leaves and crushing them, adding water of 8 to 10 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.0 to 5.5, adding cellulase and pectinase, enzymolysis at 40°C to 45°C for 2h to 3h, adjusting the pH to 1.5 to 2 with hydrochloric acid, adding pepsin, enzymolysis at 36°C to 38°C for 1.5h to 2h, adjusting the pH to 7.5 to 8.5, adding carboxypeptidase B, enzymolysis at 36°C to 38°C for 1.5h to 2h, inactivating the enzyme, filtering through a sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate through a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain a saxifrage extract.
[0014] In the preparation method of the above-mentioned saxifrage extract, the added amount of the cellulase, pectinase, pepsin and carboxypeptidase B is 0.3% to 2.0% of the mass of the saxifrage leaves; the enzyme inactivation temperature is 80°C to 90°C, and the time is 10min to 20min; the mesh size of the sieve is 200 mesh to 300 mesh.
[0015] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effects, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0016] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0017] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0018] The whitening composition and its preparation method and application provided by the present invention have the following beneficial effects compared with the prior art:
[0019] 1. The composition of the present invention contains tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, saxifrage extract, raspberry ketone glucoside, ascorbic acid derivatives, niacinamide, tranexamic acid, and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid; the combination of various ingredients can achieve whitening in a variety of ways, and the whitening active ingredients with different mechanisms improve the whitening effect of the composition, forming a multi-faceted whitening, achieving a good whitening effect, and has no irritation and allergic symptoms, high safety, and is suitable for all skin types.
[0020] Second, the tea extract of the present invention is a product of less than 2kDa obtained by enzymolysis of tea leaves by cellulase and pectinase, followed by step-by-step enzymolysis by Bacillus licheniformis protease and Serratia marcescens protease; small molecule peptides rich in specific enzymolysis can effectively improve the inhibitory effect of tea extract on tyrosinase. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in the synthesis of melanin. Components in tea extracts such as tea polyphenols can bind to the active center of tyrosinase, thereby inhibiting its activity. Tyrosinase activity is reduced, and key steps in melanin synthesis such as tyrosine conversion to dopa and dopa oxidation to generate dopaquinone are hindered, reducing the production of melanin. Tea extract can inhibit the proliferation of melanocytes and the synthesis of tyrosinase-related proteins. When the number of melanocytes decreases, the overall melanin synthesis capacity will also decrease accordingly. By regulating the growth cycle of melanocytes, tea extract can reduce the production of melanin and achieve a whitening effect.
[0021] 3. The tranexamic acid of the present invention reduces the release of inflammatory mediators, inhibits the activation of melanocytes, and reduces the regulation of melanocytes by other paracrine factors, thereby reducing the synthesis of melanin.
[0022] Fourth, the extract of the stem of the twisted prickly cactus of the present invention is a product below 2kDa obtained by enzymolysis of the stem flesh of the twisted prickly cactus with pectinase, bromelain, licheniformis protease, and serratia protease in sequence; it is rich in small molecule peptides of specific enzymolysis, and a variety of antioxidant substances, which can effectively remove free radicals in the skin and reduce the damage of free radicals to skin cells. Free radicals can stimulate melanocytes to produce melanin. By removing free radicals, the stimulating factors of melanin production can be reduced, thereby playing an indirect whitening effect. It can inhibit the conversion of tyrosine into dopa, thereby reducing the generation of melanin synthesis intermediates such as dopaquinone, and reducing the synthesis amount of melanin. It can also regulate the metabolic process of melanin in skin cells, promote the decomposition and discharge of melanin, regulate the distribution of melanin in cells of various layers of the skin, and reduce the accumulation of melanin in the skin, thereby achieving a whitening effect.
[0023] 5. The saxifrage extract of the present invention is a product of less than 2 kDa obtained by hydrolyzing saxifrage leaves with cellulase and pectinase, followed by step-by-step hydrolysis with pepsin and carboxypeptidase B; it is rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory substances such as small molecule peptides hydrolyzed by specific enzymes, which can reduce the stimulating factors of melanin production by scavenging free radicals, thereby achieving a whitening effect. It can participate in regulating the metabolic process of melanin in skin cells, promote the decomposition and transport of melanin, and reduce the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Inflammation can stimulate melanocytes to synthesize more melanin. The anti-inflammatory effect of the saxifrage extract can reduce skin inflammation, thereby indirectly reducing the production of melanin. It exerts an anti-inflammatory effect by inhibiting the release of inflammatory mediators and regulating inflammation-related signal pathways.
[0024] 6. Raspberry ketone glucoside can bind to tyrosinase and inhibit its activity, thereby reducing the conversion of tyrosine to DOPA and the subsequent steps of melanin synthesis, and reducing the amount of melanin produced. Raspberry ketone glucoside helps promote the metabolism of skin cells and accelerates the decomposition and discharge of melanin.
[0025] 7. Ascorbic acid derivatives can bind to the active site of tyrosinase, competitively inhibit the process of tyrosine conversion to DOPA, thereby reducing the production of melanin. At the same time, it can also downregulate the expression level of tyrosinase, further reducing the activity of the enzyme. It can reduce the already formed melanin to colorless DOPA or DOPA quinone, thereby fading spots and dullness. At the same time, it can also promote the decomposition and metabolism of melanin, accelerating the excretion of melanin from the skin.
[0026] 8. Niacinamide can act on melanocytes and interfere with the synthesis of melanin. It can inhibit the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby reducing the accumulation of melanin in the epidermis. It can promote the shedding of keratinocytes containing melanin, accelerate the metabolism of the skin, and make the melanin that has been produced be excreted from the body faster. It reduces the residence time of melanin on the skin surface, thereby achieving a whitening effect.
[0027] 9. Hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid can promote epidermal metabolism and reduce the accumulation of melanin in the epidermis.
[0028] In summary, the present invention is based on the problem that existing whitening products generally have only a single pathway and poor whitening effect. It combines multiple whitening active raw materials and multiple whitening pathways with different action mechanisms to achieve a synergistic effect and better solve skin pigmentation problems caused by multiple factors. Multiple whitening active ingredients with different mechanisms improve the whitening effect of the composition, constitute multi-faceted whitening, and achieve efficient whitening effect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0029] The present invention is further described below in conjunction with specific implementation cases, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments.
[0030] Example 1
[0031] A whitening composition, comprising the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 5 parts of tea extract, 3 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 3 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 5 parts of nicotinamide, 2 parts of tranexamic acid, 2 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 4 parts of Opuntia serrata stem extract, and 0.05 parts of Saxifraga extract. The ascorbic acid derivative is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid.
[0032] The preparation method of tea extract comprises the following steps: crushing tea leaves, adding water of 9 times the mass of tea leaves, adjusting pH to 5.2, adding 1.0% of the mass of cellulase and pectinase of tea leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 42°C for 3.5 hours, adjusting pH to 10, adding 1.0% of the mass of Bacillus licheniformis protease of tea leaves, enzymolysis at 50°C for 1 hour, inactivating enzyme at 85°C for 15 minutes, cooling to 38°C, adjusting pH to 9.0, adding 1.0% of the mass of Serratia protease of tea leaves, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1.5 hours, inactivating enzyme at 85°C for 15 minutes, filtering with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract.
[0033] The preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 18 times the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 4.5, adding 1.0% pectinase by mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 50°C for 2.5h, adjusting the pH to 7.0, adding 1.0% bromelain by mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 55°C for 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, cooling it to room temperature, and adjusting the pH to 5. H10, add 1.0% by weight of Bacillus licheniformis protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, enzymolysis at 50°C for 1h, inactivate the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, cool to 38°C, adjust pH to 9.0, add 1.0% by weight of Serratia marcescens protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1h, inactivate the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, filter through 250 mesh to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate through a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and lyophilize to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0034] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: crushing saxifrage leaves, adding water of 9 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.2, adding 1.0% by mass of cellulase and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, performing enzymolysis at 42°C for 2.5 hours, adjusting the pH to 1.8 with hydrochloric acid, adding 1.0% by mass of pepsin of the saxifrage leaves, performing enzymolysis at 37°C for 1.5 hours, adjusting the pH to 8.0, adding 1.0% by mass of carboxypeptidase B of the saxifrage leaves, performing enzymolysis at 37°C for 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 85°C for 15 minutes, filtering with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
[0035] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effect, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0036] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0037] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0038] Example 2
[0039] A whitening composition, comprising the following active ingredients in parts by mass: 0.01 part of tea extract, 0.001 part of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.01 part of ascorbic acid derivative, 0.01 part of nicotinamide, 0.01 part of tranexamic acid, 0.01 part of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 0.01 part of Opuntia serrata stem extract, and 0.001 part of Saxifraga extract. The ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbyl glucoside.
[0040] The preparation method of tea extract comprises the following steps: crushing tea leaves, adding water 8 times the mass of tea leaves, adjusting pH 5.0, adding 0.3% of the mass of cellulase and pectinase of tea leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 40°C for 3h, adjusting pH 9, adding 0.3% of the mass of Bacillus licheniformis protease of tea leaves, enzymolysis at 40°C for 1h, inactivating enzyme at 80°C for 10min, cooling to 37°C, adjusting pH 8.5, adding 0.3% of the mass of Serratia protease of tea leaves, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1.5h, inactivating enzyme at 80°C for 10min, filtering through a 200-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract.
[0041] The preparation method of the twisted thorn cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 15 times the mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 4.0, adding 0.3% of the mass of pectinase from the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 45°C for 2h, adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 0.3% of the mass of bromelain from the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 50°C for 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 10min, cooling it to room temperature, and adjusting the pH to 6.0. H9, add 0.3% by weight of Bacillus licheniformis protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, enzymolysis at 40°C for 1h, inactivate the enzyme at 80°C for 10min, cool to 37°C, adjust pH to 8.5, add 0.3% by weight of Serratia marcescens protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1h, inactivate the enzyme at 80°C for 10min, filter through 200 mesh to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate through a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and lyophilize to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0042] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: crushing saxifrage leaves, adding water 8 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 0.3% by mass of cellulase and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 40°C for 2h, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.3% by mass of pepsin of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 36°C for 1.5h, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding 0.3% by mass of carboxypeptidase B of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 36°C for 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 10min, filtering with a 200-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
[0043] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effect, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0044] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0045] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0046] Example 3
[0047] A whitening composition, comprising the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 1 part of tea extract, 0.5 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.5 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 1 part of nicotinamide, 0.5 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.5 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 1 part of Opuntia striata stem extract, and 0.01 parts of Saxifraga extract. The ascorbic acid derivative is sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
[0048] The preparation method of tea extract comprises the following steps: crushing tea leaves, adding water 10 times the mass of the tea leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.5, respectively adding 2.0% of the mass of cellulase and pectinase of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at 45°C for 4 hours, adjusting the pH to 11, adding 2.0% of the mass of Bacillus licheniformis protease of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at 55°C for 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 90°C for 20 minutes, cooling to 40°C, adjusting the pH to 9.5, adding 2.0% of the mass of Serratia protease of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 2 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 90°C for 20 minutes, filtering through a 300-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract.
[0049] The preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 20 times the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 2.0% of the mass of pectinase from the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 55°C for 3h, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding 2.0% of the mass of bromelain from the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 60°C for 2h, inactivating the enzyme at 90°C for 20min, cooling it to room temperature, and adjusting the pH to 11. Add 2.0% by weight of Bacillus licheniformis protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, perform enzymolysis at 55°C for 1.5 hours, inactivate the enzyme at 90°C for 20 minutes, cool to 40°C, adjust the pH to 9.5, add 2.0% by weight of Serratia marcescens protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, perform constant temperature enzymolysis for 1.5 hours, inactivate the enzyme at 90°C for 20 minutes, filter through a 300-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate through a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and lyophilize to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0050] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: crushing saxifrage leaves, adding water with a mass of 10 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 2.0% by mass of cellulase and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 45°C for 3 hours, adjusting the pH to 2 with hydrochloric acid, adding 2.0% by mass of pepsin of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 38°C for 2 hours, adjusting the pH to 8.5, adding 2.0% by mass of carboxypeptidase B of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 38°C for 2 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 90°C for 20 minutes, filtering with a 300-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
[0051] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effect, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0052] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0053] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0054] Example 4
[0055] A whitening composition, comprising the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 10 parts of tea extract, 5 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 5 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 10 parts of nicotinamide, 5 parts of tranexamic acid, 5 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 8 parts of Opuntia serrata stem extract, and 0.1 parts of Saxifraga extract. The ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
[0056] The preparation method of tea extract comprises the following steps: crushing tea leaves, adding water 8 times the mass of tea leaves, adjusting pH to 5.5, adding 0.3% of the mass of cellulase and pectinase of tea leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 45°C for 3 hours, adjusting pH to 11, adding 0.3% of the mass of Bacillus licheniformis protease of tea leaves, enzymolysis at 55°C for 1 hour, inactivating enzyme at 90°C for 10 minutes, cooling to 40°C, adjusting pH to 8.5, adding 2.0% of the mass of Serratia protease of tea leaves, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1.5 hours, inactivating enzyme at 90°C for 10 minutes, filtering through a 300-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract.
[0057] The preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 15 times the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 0.3% of the mass of pectinase from the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 55° C. for 2 hours, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding 0.3% of the mass of bromelain from the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 60° C. for 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 90° C. for 10 minutes, cooling it to room temperature, and adjusting the pH 11. Add 0.3% by weight of Bacillus licheniformis protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, perform enzymolysis at 55°C for 1 hour, inactivate the enzyme at 90°C for 10 minutes, cool to 40°C, adjust the pH to 8.5, add 2.0% by weight of Serratia marcescens protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, perform enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 1 hour, inactivate the enzyme at 90°C for 10 minutes, filter through a 300-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate through a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and lyophilize to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0058] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: crushing saxifrage leaves, adding water 8 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 0.3% by mass of cellulase and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 45°C for 2h, adjusting the pH to 2 with hydrochloric acid, adding 0.3% by mass of pepsin of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 38°C for 1.5h, adjusting the pH to 8.5, adding 0.3% by mass of carboxypeptidase B of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 38°C for 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme at 90°C for 10min, filtering with a 300-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
[0059] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effect, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0060] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0061] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0062] Example 5
[0063] A whitening composition, comprising the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 8 parts of tea extract, 3 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 3 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 8 parts of nicotinamide, 3 parts of tranexamic acid, 3 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 5 parts of Opuntia serrata stem extract, and 0.1 parts of Saxifraga extract. The ascorbic acid derivative is a mixture of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside in equal proportions.
[0064] The preparation method of tea extract comprises the following steps: crushing tea leaves, adding water 10 times the mass of the tea leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 2.0% of the mass of cellulase and pectinase of the tea leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 40°C for 4 hours, adjusting the pH to 9, adding 2.0% of the mass of Bacillus licheniformis protease of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at 40°C for 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 20 minutes, cooling to 37°C, adjusting the pH to 9.5, adding 0.3% of the mass of Serratia protease of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 2 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 20 minutes, filtering through a 200-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate using a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract.
[0065] The preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 20 times the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 4.0, adding 2.0% of the mass of pectinase from the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 45°C for 3h, adjusting the pH to 6.0, adding 2.0% of the mass of bromelain from the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolyzing it at 50°C for 2h, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 20min, cooling it to room temperature, and adjusting the pH to 9. Add 2.0% by weight of Bacillus licheniformis protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, perform enzymolysis at 40°C for 1.5 hours, inactivate the enzyme at 80°C for 20 minutes, cool to 37°C, adjust the pH to 9.5, add 0.3% by weight of Serratia marcescens protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, perform constant temperature enzymolysis for 1.5 hours, inactivate the enzyme at 80°C for 20 minutes, filter through a 200-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate through a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and lyophilize to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0066] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: crushing saxifrage leaves, adding water with a mass of 10 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.0, adding 2.0% by mass of cellulase and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 40°C for 3 hours, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding 2.0% by mass of pepsin of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 36°C for 2 hours, adjusting the pH to 7.5, adding 2.0% by mass of carboxypeptidase B of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 36°C for 2 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 20 minutes, filtering with a 200-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
[0067] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effect, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0068] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0069] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0070] Example 6
[0071] A whitening composition, comprising the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 3 parts of tea extract, 0.5 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.3 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 2 parts of niacinamide, 1 part of tranexamic acid, 0.5 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 4 parts of Opuntia spicata stem extract, and 0.01 parts of Saxifraga extract. The ascorbic acid derivative is a mixture of sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in equal proportions.
[0072] The preparation method of tea extract comprises the following steps: crushing tea leaves, adding water 8 times the mass of the tea leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.3, adding 1.5% of the mass of cellulase and pectinase of the tea leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 43°C for 3.5 hours, adjusting the pH to 11, adding 1.5% of the mass of Bacillus licheniformis protease of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at 52°C for 1 hour, inactivating the enzyme at 90°C for 10 minutes, cooling to 37°C, adjusting the pH to 9.2, adding 1.5% of the mass of Serratia protease of the tea leaves, enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme at 85°C for 15 minutes, filtering with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract.
[0073] The preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 16 times the mass of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 4.8, adding 1.5% of the mass of pectinase of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolysis at 50°C for 2.5h, adjusting the pH to 7.2, adding 1.5% of the mass of bromelain of the twisted prickly cactus stem flesh, enzymolysis at 55°C for 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, cooling to room temperature, and adjusting the pH to 7.2. H10, add 1.5% by weight of Bacillus licheniformis protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, enzymolysis at 50°C for 1h, inactivate the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, cool to 37°C, adjust pH to 9.2, add 1.5% by weight of Serratia marcescens protease from the stem of twisted prickly cactus, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1h, inactivate the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, filter through 250 mesh to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate through a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and lyophilize to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract.
[0074] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: crushing saxifrage leaves, adding water 8 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.5, adding 1.5% by mass of cellulase and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 42°C for 2h, adjusting the pH to 1.5 with hydrochloric acid, adding 1.5% by mass of pepsin of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 37°C for 1.5h, adjusting the pH to 8.2, adding 1.5% by mass of carboxypeptidase B of the saxifrage leaves, enzymolysis at 37°C for 1.5h, inactivating the enzyme at 80°C for 20min, filtering with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
[0075] The above-mentioned whitening composition is used to prepare cosmetics with whitening effect, and the percentage of the composition in the total weight of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
[0076] The method for preparing cosmetics from the above whitening composition comprises the following steps:
[0077] Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
[0078] The enzymatic activity of the cellulase used in the above embodiments is 100,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of the pectinase is 30,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of the Bacillus licheniformis protease is 100,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of the Serratia protease is 200,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of the bromelain is 500,000 U / g; the enzymatic activity of the pepsin is 10,000 U / g; and the enzymatic activity of the carboxypeptidase B is 100,000 U / g.
[0079] Comparative Example 1
[0080] The preparation method of tea extract is as follows: grind tea leaves, add water 9 times the mass of the tea leaves, boil for 15 minutes, cool to room temperature, filter with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-dry to obtain the tea extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0081] Comparative Example 2
[0082] In the method for preparing tea extract: Serratia protease enzymatic hydrolysis is not used; other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0083] Comparative Example 3
[0084] The preparation method of the twisted thorn cactus stem extract is as follows: take the peeled twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, crush it, add water 18 times the mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, adjust the pH to 4.5, add pectinase 1.0% by mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, enzymolysis at 50°C for 2.5h, inactivate the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, cool to room temperature, adjust the pH to 7.0, add anhydrous ethanol 2 times the mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, extract for 2h, filter with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-dry to obtain the twisted thorn cactus stem extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0085] Comparative Example 4
[0086] In the preparation method of the Opuntia twistica stem extract: Serratia protease enzymatic hydrolysis is not used; other parameters and methods are the same as in Example 1.
[0087] Comparative Example 5
[0088] The preparation method of the saxifrage extract is as follows: crush the saxifrage leaves, add water 9 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjust the pH to 5.2, add 1.0% of the mass of cellulose and pectinase of the saxifrage leaves respectively, enzymolysis at 42°C for 2.5h, inactivate the enzyme at 85°C for 15min, cool to room temperature, adjust the pH to 7.0, add anhydrous ethanol 2 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, extract for 2h, filter with a 250-mesh sieve to obtain a filtrate, filter the filtrate with a 2kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2kDa, and freeze-dry to obtain the saxifrage extract. Other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.
[0089] Comparative Example 6
[0090] In the method for preparing the saxifrage extract: carboxypeptidase B is not used for enzymatic hydrolysis; other parameters and methods are the same as those in Example 1.
[0091] Comparative Example 7
[0092] No Opuntia contorta stem extract was added to the composition, and other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.
[0093] Comparative Example 8
[0094] No Saxifraga extract was added to the composition, and other parameters and methods were the same as in Example 1.
[0095] Comparative Example 9
[0096] No Opuntia contorta stem extract and Saxifraga herbacea extract were added to the composition, and other parameters and methods were the same as those in Example 1.
[0097] The compositions prepared in the above-mentioned embodiments and comparative examples were subjected to the following tests.
[0098] 1. Patch test
[0099] Each composition was diluted with purified water to a mass content of 30% to obtain a sample.
[0100] 30 female subjects were selected, and each sample was placed in a patch tester chamber and applied to the inner arm of the subject. The patch tester was removed after 24 hours and the skin condition was observed within 48 hours. The observation results showed that there were no adverse reactions, no allergic reactions, and the ingredients were safe and non-irritating.
[0101] 2. Tyrosinase inhibition test
[0102] A tyrosinase solution was prepared with a pH 6.8, 50 mmol / L PBS buffer solution, and an 8 g / L composition solution was prepared with a 40% volume concentration of ethanol aqueous solution; 40 μL of 0.1 mg / mL tyrosine, 80 μL of PBS buffer solution, 50 μL of the composition solution, and 50 μL of 60 U / mL tyrosinase solution were added to a 96-well plate in sequence, and incubated at 37°C for 30 minutes. The sample was detected at a wavelength of 475 nm using an ELISA reader, with PBS buffer as the blank group, and 3 parallel samples were made for each. The inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity was calculated as follows:
[0103] Tyrosinase activity inhibition rate (%) = [(A1-A2)-(A3-A4)] / (A1-A2) × 100%;
[0104] Wherein, A1 is the absorbance after incubation with the blank solution, A2 is the absorbance before incubation with the blank solution, A3 is the absorbance after incubation with the combined solution, and A4 is the absorbance before incubation with the combined solution.
[0105] The test results are shown in Table 1 below.
[0106] Table 1 Inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity (average value)
[0107]
[0108] From the above results, it can be seen that the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 have good tyrosinase inhibitory effects. From Comparative Examples 1 and 2, it can be seen that the preparation method of tea extract directly affects its tyrosinase inhibitory effect. The tea extract prepared by conventional water extraction and the tea extract prepared without Serratia protease hydrolysis have greatly reduced tyrosinase inhibitory effects. From the results of Comparative Examples 3 to 9, it can be seen that low-content extracts of Opuntia serrata stems and Saxifraga herba extracts have almost no effect on the inhibition of tyrosinase activity.
[0109] 3. Melanin inhibition test
[0110] Tested according to the "Cosmetic Melanin Inhibition Test-Zebrafish Embryo Test Method".
[0111] Each composition was diluted with purified water to a mass content of 5% to obtain a sample solution.
[0112] Fish embryo culture medium: 2940 mg anhydrous calcium chloride, 1240 mg magnesium sulfate heptahydrate, 630 mg sodium bicarbonate, and 55 mg potassium chloride are dissolved in 10 L of water.
[0113] Test group: 24 8-hour-old zebrafish embryos were exposed to the sample solution. Blank group: 24 8-hour-old zebrafish embryos were exposed to fish embryo culture medium. Positive control group: 24 8-hour-old zebrafish embryos were exposed to 30 mg / L phenylthiourea aqueous solution. After exposure to a 28°C constant temperature incubator for 48 hours, the melanin signal intensity of the fish embryos was detected and statistically analyzed. Three parallel samples were made for each type, and the melanin inhibition rate was calculated as follows:
[0114] Melanin inhibition rate = (average value of “average signal intensity” of blank control group - average value of “average signal intensity” of sample solution) / (average value of “average signal intensity” of blank control group - average value of “average signal intensity” of positive control group) × 100%.
[0115] The test results are shown in Table 2 below.
[0116] Table 2 Melanin inhibition rate (average value)
[0117]
[0118] It can be seen from the above results that the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 have good melanin inhibition. It can be seen from Comparative Examples 1 and 2 that the preparation method of tea extract directly affects its inhibitory effect on melanin production. The conventional water extraction method for preparing tea extract and the tea extract prepared without enzymatic hydrolysis of Serratia protease have greatly reduced the inhibitory effect on melanin production. It can be seen from the results of Comparative Examples 3-9 that the twisted cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract have a certain inhibitory effect on melanin production, and changing the preparation method of the twisted cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract will affect the inhibitory effect on melanin production. It can be seen that the twisted cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract in Examples 1 to 6 contain small molecule peptide components of specific enzymatic hydrolysis, which can inhibit melanin production in other ways (non-tyrosinase inhibition pathway). And the use of the twisted cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract has a good synergistic effect, which greatly improves the inhibitory effect on melanin production.
[0119] 4. Skin whitening effect test
[0120] Each composition was diluted with purified water to a mass content of 5% to obtain a sample solution.
[0121] 120 healthy female subjects (25-40 years old) were selected and divided into 15 groups, 8 people in each group; VISA facial image analysis system and Image-Pro Plus image analysis software were used to detect facial ITA° values. The larger the ITA° value, the brighter the skin tone. The initial ITA° values were tested before the test; then, each group of subjects used each sample solution respectively, and applied a mask soaked with the sample solution every night after cleansing, and kept it for 10 minutes for absorption. The treatment lasted for 2 months, and the final ITA° value was determined; the calculation formula for the ITA° value change rate is as follows:
[0122] ITA° value change rate (%) = (final ITA° value - initial ITA° value) / initial ITA° value × 100%;
[0123] The test results are shown in Table 3 below.
[0124] Table 3 ITA° value change rate (average value)
[0125]
[0126] As can be seen from the above results, the compositions of Examples 1 to 6 have good whitening effects. As can be seen from Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the preparation method of tea extract directly affects its whitening effect. The conventional water extraction method does not contain effective active peptides in the tea extract, and the tea extract prepared without the enzymatic hydrolysis of Serratia protease does not contain characteristic small molecule peptides, which greatly reduces the whitening effect. As can be seen from the results of Comparative Examples 3-9, the twisted thorn cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract have a certain promoting effect on the decomposition of melanin, and changing the preparation method of the twisted thorn cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract will affect its promoting effect on the decomposition of melanin. It can be seen that the twisted thorn cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract in Examples 1 to 6 contain specific ingredients, which can well promote the decomposition of melanin. And the twisted thorn cactus stem extract and the saxifrage extract have a good synergistic effect when used in combination, which greatly promotes the decomposition of melanin.
Claims
1. A whitening composition, characterized in that: The composition comprises the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 0.01 to 10 parts of tea extract, 0.001 to 5 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.01 to 5 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 0.01 to 10 parts of nicotinamide, 0.01 to 5 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.01 to 5 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazineethane sulfonic acid, 0.01 to 8 parts of twisted prickly cactus stem extract, and 0.001 to 0.1 parts of saxifrage extract; The preparation method of the tea extract comprises the following steps: taking tea leaves and crushing them, adding water of 8 to 10 times the mass of the tea leaves, adjusting the pH to 5.0 to 5.5, adding 0.3% to 2.0% of cellulase and 0.3% to 2.0% of pectinase by mass of the tea leaves, performing enzymolysis at 40 to 45°C for 3 to 4 hours, adjusting the pH to 9 to 11, adding 0.3% to 2.0% of Bacillus licheniformis protease by mass of the tea leaves, performing enzymolysis at 40 to 55°C for 1 to 1.5 hours, inactivating the enzyme, cooling the temperature to 37 to 40°C, adjusting the pH to 8.5 to 9.5, adding 0.3% to 2.0% of Serratia protease by mass of the tea leaves, performing enzymolysis at a constant temperature for 1.5 to 2 hours, inactivating the enzyme, filtering with a mesh to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate with a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the tea extract; The preparation method of the twisted thorn cactus stem extract comprises the following steps: taking peeled twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, crushing it, adding water 15 to 20 times the mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, adjusting the pH to 4.0 to 5.0, adding pectinase in an amount of 0.3% to 2.0% by mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, performing enzymolysis at 45°C to 55°C for 2h to 3h, adjusting the pH to 6.0 to 7.5, adding bromelain in an amount of 0.3% to 2.0% by mass of the twisted thorn cactus stem flesh, performing enzymolysis at 50°C to 60°C for 1.5h to 2h, inactivating the enzyme, and cooling to room temperature. After warming, adjusting the pH to 9-11, adding 0.3%-2.0% of the mass of the stem flesh of the twisted prickly cactus Bacillus licheniformis protease, enzymolysis at 40°C-55°C for 1h-1.5h, inactivating the enzyme, cooling to 37°C-40°C, adjusting the pH to 8.5-9.5, adding 0.3%-2.0% of the mass of the stem flesh of the twisted prickly cactus Serratia protease, enzymolysis at constant temperature for 1h-1.5h, inactivating the enzyme, filtering through a mesh to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate through a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain a twisted prickly cactus stem extract; The preparation method of the saxifrage extract comprises the following steps: taking saxifrage leaves and crushing them, adding water of 8 to 10 times the mass of the saxifrage leaves, adjusting the pH value to 5.0 to 5.5, adding 0.3% to 2.0% of cellulase and 0.3% to 2.0% of pectinase by mass of the saxifrage leaves, performing enzymolysis at 40 to 45°C for 2 hours to 3 hours, adjusting the pH value to 1.5 to 2 by using hydrochloric acid, adding 0.3% to 2.0% of pepsin by mass of the saxifrage leaves, performing enzymolysis at 36 to 38°C for 1.5 hours to 2 hours, adjusting the pH value to 7.5 to 8.5, adding 0.3% to 2.0% of carboxypeptidase B by mass of the saxifrage leaves, performing enzymolysis at 36 to 38°C for 1.5 hours to 2 hours, inactivating the enzyme, filtering through a mesh to obtain a filtrate, filtering the filtrate through a 2 kDa ultrafiltration membrane to obtain an ultrafiltrate below 2 kDa, and freeze-drying to obtain the saxifrage extract.
2. A whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The composition comprises the following active ingredients in parts by weight: 1 to 8 parts of tea extract, 0.5 to 3 parts of raspberry ketone glucoside, 0.5 to 3 parts of ascorbic acid derivatives, 1 to 8 parts of nicotinamide, 0.5 to 3 parts of tranexamic acid, 0.5 to 3 parts of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, 1 to 5 parts of prickly pear cactus stem extract, and 0.01 to 0.1 parts of saxifrage extract; the ascorbic acid derivative is one or more combinations of 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
3. A whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the preparation method of tea extract, the temperature of enzyme inactivation is 80°C to 90°C, and the time is 10min to 20min; the mesh number of the sieve is 200 to 300 meshes.
4. A whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the preparation method of the twisted prickly cactus stem extract, the temperature of the enzyme inactivation is 80° C. to 90° C., and the time is 10 min to 20 min; the mesh number of the sieve is 200 mesh to 300 mesh.
5. A whitening composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: In the preparation method of the saxifrage extract, the temperature of the enzyme inactivation is 80°C to 90°C, and the time is 10min to 20min; the mesh number of the sieve is 200 meshes to 300 meshes.
6. Use of the whitening composition according to claim 1 in preparing cosmetics with whitening effects, characterized in that: The percentage of the composition to the total mass of the cosmetics is 1% to 5%.
7. The use according to claim 6, characterized in that: The application method comprises the following steps: Ascorbic acid derivatives participate in the emulsification of the oil phase; niacinamide participates in the emulsification of the water phase; raspberry ketone glucoside is pre-dissolved in water; tranexamic acid is pre-dissolved in water; hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid is pre-dissolved in water; after the oil phase and the water phase are homogenized, raspberry ketone glucoside aqueous solution, tranexamic acid aqueous solution, hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid aqueous solution, tea extract, prickly pear cactus stem extract, and saxifrage extract are added, homogenized, and the cosmetics are obtained.
Citation Information
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