Inverse emulsion comprising polyphenol, nonionic polysaccharide, polyglycerol nonionic surfactant having HLB < = 8, polyol, non-volatile vegetable oil and volatile alkane

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oil phase comprising: i) at least one vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, the aqueous phase comprising: i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, and ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) at least one polyol; c) at least one polyglycerol nonionic, preferably non-silicone, surfactant having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The object of the present invention is to provide, for the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin, a novel composition in the form of an inverse emulsion which is very particularly advantageous both in terms of its technical performance qualities and in terms of the organoleptic sensations it offers the user when applying it to these keratin materials and in particular to the skin.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions, such as foundations, are often used to impart an aesthetically pleasing color to the skin, but also to enhance the beauty of irregular skin by making it possible to hide marks and dyschromias, reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and mask spots and acne scars; in this regard, coverage is one of the main properties sought.

[0003] In the cosmetics sector, water-in-oil emulsions (also called inverse emulsions) are particularly popular with consumers in the field of foundations, sunscreens or moisturizers for their cosmetic properties, in particular for their comfort during application, reflected in particular by the absence or greatly reduced tightness, dryness and / or stickiness and / or greasy effects compared to "straight" oil-in-water emulsions. These aforementioned inverse emulsions also make it possible to contain large amounts of fillers and / or pigments and to obtain good homogeneity during application compared to straight emulsions.

[0004] Currently on the market for the care and makeup of keratin materials, many products claim to be long-lasting throughout the day, withstanding external factors such as water, sebum, mechanical friction, etc.

[0005] In order to provide long-lasting wear for making up the lips and for making up the face, there are known compositions which comprise as coating agents hydrophobic film-forming polymers, such as, for example, silicone resins, for example the products with the following INCI name: Trimethylsiloxysilicate or with the following INCI name: Polypropylsilsesquioxane, or silicone acrylate copolymers, such as the products with the following INCI name: Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer).

[0006] However, consumers are becoming increasingly demanding in the composition of their cosmetic products and also seek to use products with well-tolerated ingredients, such as natural ingredients, ingredients with little or no environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0007] There remains a need to find new compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions with ingredients that have little or no environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packagings, allowing excellent persistence of the desired cosmetic effect, in particular the color of cosmetics on keratin materials, which can range from one day (including removal at the end of the day) to a persistence over several days, which are resistant to mechanical friction, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oils, cleansing products such as shower gels, shampoos, two-phase products and certain micellar waters.

[0008] Surprisingly, the inventors have noted that these objects can be achieved with a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0009] a) a continuous oil phase comprising

[0010] i) at least one vegetable oil; and

[0011] ii) at least one volatile alkane; and

[0012] b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase, the aqueous phase comprising:

[0013] i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, and

[0014] ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and

[0015] iii) at least one polyol;

[0016] c) at least one polyglycerolated nonionic, preferably non-silicone surfactant having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0017] The inventors have in fact found that the composition of the invention produces an excellent durability of the desired cosmetic effect on keratin materials, which can range from one day (including removal at the end of the day) to a durability over several days, which is resistant to mechanical friction, water, sebum, oil, cleansing products such as shower gels, shampoos, two-phase products and certain micellar waters. Surprisingly, this is due to the formation of a coating agent resulting from the interaction between polyphenol X and nonionic polysaccharides and also polyglycerolated surfactants via hydrogen bonds at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0018] This discovery forms the basis of the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0019] A first subject of the present invention is therefore a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0020] a) a continuous oil phase comprising

[0021] i) at least one vegetable oil; and

[0022] ii) at least one volatile alkane; and

[0023] b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in an oil phase, the aqueous phase comprising:

[0024] i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups; and

[0025] ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y; and

[0026] iii) at least one polyol;

[0027] c) at least one polyglycerolated nonionic, preferably non-silicone surfactant having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition does not contain any silicone.

[0029] A second subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic method for coating, especially making up, keratin materials, in particular the skin, such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least the step of applying a composition, such as defined above, to said keratin materials.

[0030] definition

[0031] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" means in particular the skin, like the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, contours of the eyes.

[0032] The term "physiologically acceptable" is intended to mean compatible with the skin and / or skin appendages, having a pleasing color, odor and feel and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that would tend to deter consumers from using such compositions.

[0033] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrogen bonding interaction" means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reagents and an electronegative heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and fluorine) of the other reagent. In the context of the present invention, hydrogen bonds are formed between the hydroxyl (OH) functional groups of the reactive phenolic groups of polyphenol X and the reactive hydroxyl groups of nonionic polysaccharide Y.

[0034] The term "ambient temperature" means 25°C.

[0035] The term "atmospheric pressure" means 760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pascal.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-in-oil emulsion" (also called inverse emulsion) is understood to indicate any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which an aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so that a macroscopically homogeneous mixture is observed to the naked eye.

[0037] The term "silicone" is understood to mean any compound comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0038] The term "silicone-free composition" is understood to mean any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight of silicone compounds, indeed even less than 0.5% by weight, indeed even less than 0.1% by weight, indeed even no silicone compounds, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] The term "natural compound" refers to any compound derived directly from a plant without undergoing any chemical modification.

[0040] The term "compound of natural origin" refers to any compound from a plant that has undergone chemical modification.

[0041] oil phase

[0042] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase containing i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil and ii) at least one volatile alkane.

[0043] The term "oil" is understood to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0044] The composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content varying from 5% to 95%, particularly from 10% to 80%, particularly from 15% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] a) Vegetable oil

[0046] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile vegetable oil.

[0047] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on keratin materials for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and which has in particular a viscosity of less than 10 -3 Oil with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13Pa).

[0048] Vegetable oils can be extracted from plant products by a single cold pressing (virgin oil) or by hot pressing and refining (refined oil).

[0049] The non-volatile vegetable oil of the present invention is an oil directly extracted from a plant without undergoing any chemical modification.

[0050] As non-volatile vegetable oils suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made of aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, kohlrabi oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp seed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, cucumber seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, shea butter, alfalfa oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, millet oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, barley oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, black currant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin seed oil, red chestnut pumpkin seed oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, rye oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile vegetable oil suitable for the present invention may be particularly chosen from macadamia oil, olive oil and mixtures thereof.

[0052] The composition according to the invention may contain from 0.5% to 50% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight of vegetable oil and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] b) Volatile alkanes

[0054] The oil phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile alkane.

[0055] The term "alkane" is understood to mean any compound comprising a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain consisting exclusively of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0056] The term "volatile alkane" applicable to the present invention is understood to mean a cosmetic alkane which is capable of evaporating in less than one hour upon contact with the skin at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 101325 Pa), which is liquid at ambient temperature, and which has a specific volatile organic compound in the range of from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). 2 Evaporation rate / minute.

[0057] As examples of volatile alkanes that can be used in the oil phase of the composition of the invention, mention may be made of branched alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as

[0058] Isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example or More particularly, isododecane will be used.

[0059] As examples of volatile alkanes that can be used in the oil phase of the composition of the invention, mention may also be made of volatile linear C6-C 14 Alkane.

[0060] As examples of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 of the company Corning (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

[0061] As examples of linear alkanes suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of n-hexane (C6), n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-hexane (C11), n-heptane (C12), n-octane (C13), n-nonane (C14), n-decane (C15), n-hexane (C16), n-heptane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n-tetradecane (C 14 ) and mixtures thereof.

[0062] Particular mention may be made of the companies listed under the reference number Parafol and Parafol n-Dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and mixtures thereof.

[0063] According to one embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. It is possible to use in particular the solvent produced by the company Biosynthis under the reference number Vegelight Sold as a 85 / 15 weight ratio dodecane / tetradecane mixture.

[0064] According to yet another embodiment, a volatile linear C9-C12 alkane having the INCI name C9-12 alkane is used. 12 Alkane mixtures, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the reference number Vegelight Products for sale.

[0065] More particularly, n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ), such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Corning, and such as those obtained under the trade name Cetiol by BASF Those that are sold.

[0066] Preferably, the volatile alkane is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, particularly from 1% to 50% by weight and more particularly from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] c) Additional fixed oil

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the oil phase may comprise at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (different from the non-volatile vegetable oils described above).

[0069] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic acid functional groups.

[0070] The term "non-volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on keratin materials for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and which has in particular a viscosity of less than 10 -3 Oil with a vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13Pa).

[0071] Among the other non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of phytosterol esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203); fatty esters, such as diisopropyl sebacate (Stéarineries Dubois, DUB DIS), isopropyl myristate (DUB IPM), isopropyl palmitate (Oleon, Radia 7732); triglycerides composed of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, the chain length of the fatty acids of which can range from C4 to C5. 36 And in particular from C 18 To C 36 Variations, these oils may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; in particular, these oils may be heptanoic or caprylic or caprylic / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by Diebosterlin or by Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol and Those that are sold.

[0072] Mention may also be made of squalane, such as that sold by the company Aprinova under the name Neossance Products for sale.

[0073] Mention may also be made of dialkyl ether oils having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether, such as is marketed under the trade name Rofetan by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals. The products sold by BASF under the trade name Cetiol Products for sale.

[0074] According to a particular form of the invention, dicaprylyl ether will be used.

[0075] Preferably, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is / are present in a concentration less than or equal to 50% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] According to a specific embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of vegetable oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 20 to 1 / 5.

[0077] According to a specific embodiment, the weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oil and additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1.

[0078] Water Phase

[0079] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients, such as a water-soluble solvent.

[0080] Water suitable for the present invention may be floral water such as cornflower water, and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche-Posay water, and / or thermal water.

[0081] Also suitable for use in the present invention is demineralized water.

[0082] The composition according to the invention may comprise water in a content varying from 5% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 65% and more preferably still from 20% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] PolyphenolsX

[0084] The polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention contain at least two different phenolic groups in their structure.

[0085] The term "polyphenol" means any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds in free or fused form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0086] The term "different phenolic groups" refers to chemically different phenolic groups.

[0087] The polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in individual form or contained in a mixture, especially in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols containing at least two phenolic groups that are differently substituted on the aromatic ring.

[0088] Two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

[0089] Examples of flavonoids that may be mentioned include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspartame or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechins, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyrocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubins); dihydro Flavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxilidin) or silybin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin or naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechin tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavones such as daidzein or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Among the natural polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of lignin.

[0091] Examples of non-flavonoid compounds that may be mentioned include curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as piceatannol glucoside, resveratrol or rhubarb glycoside; aurones such as aurantin; and mixtures thereof.

[0092] As polyphenols X that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; and phenol-substituted coumarins.

[0093] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the polyphenols are selected from: catechin tannins, such as gallic tannins selected from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, chestnut ellagitannin, oak ellagitannin, quercetin, castanein, casuarina tannin, ricin, exonaphthosides, grandinin, gradinin, dimeric ellagitannins (roburins), brackenin, tellimagrandins, burnetin, potentillarin, The following are some of the compounds that have been studied:

[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol X is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract having the INCI name Camellia sinensis extract, which especially comprises at least 45% of epigallocatechin relative to the total weight of the extract, such as sold under the name Dermofeel Phenon 90 by Evonik Nutrition & Care. Commercial products sold or marketed by Tayo Green Power under the name Tea PolyphenolsGreen Tea Commercial products for sale.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, polyphenol X is a proanthocyanidin or a mixture of proanthocyanidins, in particular an extract of the bark of maritime pine having the INCI name Pine bark / bud extract, which contains in particular at least 65% by weight of proanthocyanidins relative to the total weight of the extract, such as the extract produced by Biolandes Fragrances. ) sold under the name Commercial products for sale.

[0096] As polyphenol X, use will more particularly be made of tannic acid, such as is commercially available under the name Brewtan from Anijomoto Omnichem NV. Commercial products for sale.

[0097] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol X of the invention is present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight and more particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol X of the present invention is present in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 30.0% by weight and more particularly ranging from 2.0% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Nonionic polysaccharide Y

[0100] Nonionic polysaccharide Y is a carbohydrate macromolecule formed by linking a large number of hydrophilic basic sugars (saccharides) together via O-glycosidic bonds.

[0101] According to one particular embodiment, the nonionic polysaccharide according to the invention will be different from sugars originating from fruits or vegetables, in particular monosaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, fructose and sorbitol.

[0102] They may be selected from natural polysaccharides, modified polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

[0103] The term "modified polysaccharide" means any chemically or enzymatically modified polysaccharide comprising at least one functional group.

[0104] The functional group may be a hydrocarbon-based group (consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms), such as an alkyl, alkenyl, aryl (i.e., phenyl) or aralkyl (i.e., benzyl). The hydrocarbon-based group may be unsubstituted, such as consisting of a simple alkyl chain, or may be substituted with a group such as an aromatic group such as an aryl (i.e., phenyl) or aralkyl (i.e., benzyl) or alternatively a polar group such as a hydroxyl group.

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 2000 g / mol, or even greater than 3500 g / mol.

[0106] The optionally modified nonionic polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans, or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. They may be starchy polysaccharides such as native or modified starch. Non-starchy polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives or fructose, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof. In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, cellulose and its derivatives (especially methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose), mannans, xylans, arabinans, galactans, polygalacturonic acid, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylan, xyloglucan, glucomannan, arabinogalactan, agar, karaya gum (about 40% acid), locust bean gum, guar gum and its nonionic derivatives (especially hydroxypropyl guar gum), and biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin (especially scleroglucan gums). They are especially chosen from celluloses such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; especially modified guar gums such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, agarose; pullulan, starch, inulin and starch.

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide Y will be selected from pullulan; cellulose such as cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; modified guar gum, in particular hydroxypropyl guar gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0108] According to a preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide Y is pullulan.

[0109] Pullulan according to the invention is a polysaccharide composed of maltotriose units known under the name α-(1,4)-α(1,6)-glucan. The three glucose units in maltotriose are linked via α-(1,4) glycosidic bonds, whereas consecutive maltotriose units are linked to each other via α-(1,6) glycosidic bonds. It is produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. Pullulan is commercially available, for example, from Hayashibara of Japan under the trade reference number Pullulan PF or by Daiso Co. Ltd. under the index number Aqua Produced by, for example, the Linyuan Group under the name Pullulan Cosmetic Products for sale.

[0110] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound Y of the present invention is present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight, more particularly in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A).

[0111] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol X to the reactive hydroxyl groups of the nonionic polysaccharide Y capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the hydroxyl groups preferably ranges from 1 / 3 to 20, more preferably from 1 / 2 to 15 and more particularly from 3 / 4 to 3.

[0112] Polyglycerol emulsifying surfactant with HLB ≤ 8

[0113] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyglycerolated emulsifying nonionic surfactant having an HLB ≤8.

[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, a "polyglycerolated compound" is understood to mean any molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least two glycerol groups or a chain containing -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2)glycerol units.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" is understood to mean an amphiphilic compound, that is to say a compound exhibiting two parts of different polarity. Typically, one part is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase). The other part is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value, which is the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants used to prepare water-in-oil emulsions, their HLB values ​​are generally less than or equal to 8 and more particularly range from 3 to 8. The value of HLB can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0116] Among the polyglycerolated emulsifying nonionic surfactants with HLB ≤ 8 that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of

[0117] Esters of isostearic acid and polyglycerols containing from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol units, such as, for example, those marketed under the name Isolan Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate sold by Cognis under the name Lameform Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold by Nihon Emulsion under the name Emalex Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate sold by Nihon Surfactant under the name Nikkol Decaglyn Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care under the name Isolan Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold by Croda Europe, Ltd under the name Cithrol Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate for sale;

[0118] - Esters of stearic acid and polyglycerols containing 2 or 3 mol of glycerol units, such as those sold under the name Sunsoft Polyglyceryl-2-stearate is sold by BASF under the name Cremophor GS Polyglyceryl-3 distearate is sold by Clariant International Ltd under the name Hostacerin Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate for sale;

[0119] - esters of oleic acid and polyglycerols containing 2 or 3 mol of glycerol units, such as those produced by Nikko Chemicals under the name Nikkol Polyglyceryl-2 oleate is sold by Evonik Nutrition & Care under the name Isolan GO Polyglyceryl-3 oleate and polyglyceryl-2 dioleate sold by Gattefosse under the name Plurol Oleique CC Polyglyceryl-3 dioleate for sale;

[0120] - polyglycerol polyricinoleates containing from 3 to 6 mol of glycerol units, such as polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate, especially those marketed under the name Akoline by the company Karlshamns or by Stéarinerie Dubois Fils under the name Dub PGPR or by Dr. Straetmans GmbH under the name or by Croda Chemicals under the name Crester or by Sasol under the name Imwitor Sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co. Ltd. under the name Sunsoft No. Polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate sold under the name Hexaglyn by Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd. Or by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co. Ltd. under the name SY Glyster CRS- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate for sale.

[0121] According to one embodiment, mixtures of these compounds may be used.

[0122] More particularly, the polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant will be chosen from polyglycerol polyricinoleates containing from 3 to 6 mol of glycerol units and more particularly marketed by Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd. under the name Hexaglyn PR- or by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. under the name SY-Glyster CRS- Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate for sale.

[0123] The composition of the invention preferably comprises from 2 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 7% by weight, of polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant having an HLB ≤ 8, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Polyols

[0125] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol.

[0126] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0127] The polyols according to the invention are present in liquid form at ambient temperature (20° C.-25° C.).

[0128] The polyols suitable for the present invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds carrying at least two -OH functional groups, in particular at least three -OH functional groups and more particularly at least four -OH functional groups on the alkyl chain.

[0129] Polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating the compositions according to the invention are especially those having 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0130] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen from C3-C4 alkanediols, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0131] The term "C3-C4 alkanediol" is understood to mean any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound comprising a hydrocarbon-based chain containing only hydrogen atoms, 3 or 4 carbon atoms and two hydroxyl groups located in different positions.

[0132] The C3-C4 alkane diol may be chosen from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (INCI name Methylpropanediol), 1,2-propanediol (INCI name Propylene Glycol), 1,3-propanediol (INCI name Propanediol), 1,2-butanediol (1,2-butanediol or 1,2-butylene glycol), 1,4-butanediol (or tetramethylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol (2,3-butanediol or 2,3-butylene glycol) or 1,3-butanediol (INCI name Butanediol).

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of C3-C4 alkanediol and glycerol.

[0134] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from propylene glycol, glycerol, and a mixture thereof.

[0135] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the polyol is selected from a mixture of propylene glycol and glycerol.

[0136] The composition of the invention preferably comprises a total amount of polyols of from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Monohydric alcohol

[0138] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one monohydric alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0139] The monohydric alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms is preferably present in a content of from 2% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] Sugar alcohols

[0141] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one sugar alcohol.

[0142] The term "sugar alcohol" refers to sugars that contain only hydroxyl functional groups. These sugar alcohols are different from ketoses and aldoses that contain ketone or aldehyde functional groups. Sugar alcohols are described in particular in the encyclopedia Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley and Sons, "Sugar Alcohols", 2005.

[0143] Preferably, the sugar alcohol that can be used in the composition according to the invention corresponds to the general formula:

[0144] [Chemical formula 4]

[0145] HO-CH2-(CHOH) n -CH2-OH

[0146] wherein n is an integer ranging from 2 to 5.

[0147] Preferably, the sugar alcohol is selected from erythritol, sorbitol, threitol, ribitol, arabitol, allitol, dulcitol, iditol, altritol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol and mixtures of these compounds.

[0148] Particularly preferably, the sugar alcohol is sorbitol (INCI name: Sorbitol or Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate).

[0149] The composition according to the invention preferably contains from 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 2% to 12% by weight and even better still from 4% to 10% by weight of sugar alcohol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Saturated and straight-chain C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol

[0151] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one saturated and linear C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol.

[0152] Among the saturated and straight-chain C7-C 14 Among the monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, mention may be made of:

[0153] - Glyceryl Heptanoate (C7), such as that sold under the trade name Lexgard Natural Products of Inolex Inc.

[0154] - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8), such as the product with the following trade name: AEC Glyceryl (A&E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); Capmul (Abitec Corporation); Cremercoor GC (IOI OleoGmbH); Dermosoft (Dr. Streitmanns GmbH); DUB (Dibo Sterling Company); Imwitor and Imwitor (IOI Oleochemicals Corporation); Lexgard GMCY (Indis Corporation); Oristar GCC (Orient Stars LLC); Sunsoft and Sunsoft 700 (Taiyo Chemical Co., Ltd.); 104528Symlite (Symrise);

[0155] -Glyceryl Caprylate (C8) / Caprate (C 10 ), such as products with the following trade names: AEC Glyceryl Caprylate / Caprate (Connock Perfumes and Cosmetics Co., Ltd.); Cremercoor GC810 (IOI Oleochemicals Co., Ltd.); Dub 810G (Dibo Sterling Co., Ltd.);

[0156] -Glyceryl Caprate (C 10 ), such as products with the following trade names: Capmul MCM (Abitek Group); Dermosoft (Dr. Streitmans LLC); AEC Glyceryl (Connock Perfumes & Cosmetics Ltd.); Lexgard (Indis Corporation); Sunsoft 760 (Sun Chemical Co., Ltd.);

[0157] -Glyceryl laurate (C 12 ), such as products with the following trade names: AEC Glyceryl (Connock Perfumes and Cosmetics Ltd.); Colonial (Colonial Chemical Inc.); DUB (Deborah Sterling Company); Jeechem (Jeen International Corporation); Lauricidin (Med-Chem Labs Inc.); Monomuls 90-L 12 (BASF); Oristar GL (Eastern Star LLC); Pelemol (Phoenix Chemical Inc.); Protachem (Protameen Chemicals); Sunsoft (Sun Chemical Co., Ltd.); Ultrapure (UltraChemical, Inc.)

[0158] -Glyceryl Myristate (C 14 ), such as products with the following trade names: AEC Glyceryl (Connock Perfumes & Cosmetics Ltd.); Cithrol GMM (Croda Chemicals); DUB MG (Debosterlin); Nikkol MGM (Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd.); Oristar GMA (Oriental Star Co., Ltd.); Sunsoft 8002 (Sun Chemical Co., Ltd.) and

[0159] - mixtures thereof.

[0160] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, glyceryl caprylate will be used.

[0161] The composition according to the invention preferably contains from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight of saturated and linear C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol.

[0162] Powdered colorant

[0163] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises at least one powdered colorant.

[0164] The powdered colorant may be selected from pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0165] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in the aqueous medium and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit.

[0166] According to a specific embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0167] The term "mineral pigment" is understood to mean any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter "Pigments, inorganic" in Ullmann's Encyclopaedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or zirconium dioxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders (for example aluminum powder and copper powder). The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in the form of a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, or ZnS.

[0168] The size of the pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0169] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigment has a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0170] These sizes were obtained using a commercial MasterSizer from Malvern. The particle size analyzer measures by static light scattering, which makes it possible to determine the size distribution of all particles over a wide range (which can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm). The data are processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is best applied to size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows the determination of the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0171] D

[50] represents the largest dimension present at 50% by volume of the particles.

[0172] In the context of the present invention, mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as those manufactured by Miyoshi Chemicals Co., Ltd. under the reference number For sale.

[0173] Mention may also be made, as mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, of nacres.

[0174] The term "nacre" is understood to mean any form of coloured particles (which may or may not be iridescent), especially produced by a certain mollusk in its shell, or alternatively synthetically, and which have a colouring effect via optical interference.

[0175] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica titanium coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with organic dyes and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or layers of organic colorants.

[0176] According to a specific embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0177] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural micas covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0178] These mother-of-pearl may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or hue.

[0179] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having optical effects which differ from simple conventional coloring effects, i.e. uniform and stable effects as produced by conventional colorants (e.g. monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" means an effect which lacks color variability with viewing angle or in response to temperature changes.

[0180] For example, such a material may be selected from particles with a metallic hue, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromics, optical brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these different materials may be combined to provide two effects simultaneously, or even novel effects according to the invention.

[0181] According to one particular embodiment, the composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0182] According to another particular embodiment, the composition (B) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0183] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. In the case where they are treated with hydrophobic compounds, they show a predominant affinity for the oil phase which can then transport them.

[0184] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0185] For the purposes of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally means a total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant which is absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment.

[0186] The surface treated pigments can be prepared according to chemical, electrical, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0187] Surfactants can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and covalent bond formation.

[0188] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating with pigments.

[0189] The coating may comprise from 0.1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment and in particular

[0190] From 0.5% to 5% by weight.

[0191] The coating can be produced, for example, by absorbing a liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the particles with said surfactant under stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the cosmetic or care composition.

[0192] The coating can be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and formation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

[0193] Chemical surface treatment may include diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in the mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0194] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0195] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactant; fluorine surfactant; fluorosilicone surfactant; metal soap; N-acyl amino acid or its salt; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal wax; polar synthetic wax; fatty ester; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0196] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0197] According to a particular embodiment, the colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0198] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. The organic pigment may be chosen in particular from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0199] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from the following: carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 red pigments included in the color index, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0200] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may especially consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0201] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0202] Mineral substrates onto which the dye is adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0203] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal red. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0204] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0205] Cosmetic composition

[0206] Cosmetic composition

[0207] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a composition as defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0208] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition has to be applied and also to the physical appearance in which the composition has to be packaged.

[0209] The composition according to the invention may additionally contain additives usually used in caring for and / or making up products, such as:

[0210] - activators, such as vitamins, for example vitamin A, E, C or B3;

[0211] -Sunscreen;

[0212] - additional colorants;

[0213] -filler;

[0214] - lipophilic gelling agents;

[0215] -spices;

[0216] -preservative;

[0217] - and mixtures thereof.

[0218] It is a routine operation for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, such that the desired cosmetic properties of these compositions are not thereby affected.

[0219] Additional colorants

[0220] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant, and preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] For obvious reasons, this amount is susceptible to considerable variation with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the colorant in question, and its adjustment is undoubtedly within the capabilities of a person skilled in the art.

[0222] Additional colorants suitable for use in the present invention may be fat-soluble.

[0223] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an oil phase or in a solvent miscible with a fatty substance and which is capable of imparting color.

[0224] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsanthin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto or curcumin.

[0225] Additional colorants suitable for use in the present invention may be water-soluble.

[0226] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and which is capable of imparting color.

[0227] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elder), caramel and riboflavin.

[0228] filler

[0229] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler which makes it possible in particular to impart to them the additional properties of improved stability, wear resistance, hiding and / or mattness.

[0230] The term "filler" is understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, provided in insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of inorganic or organic nature, make it possible to give body or solidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the make-up.

[0231] These fillers can be inorganic or organic.

[0232] Preferably, they will be chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0233] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may have lamellar, spherical, spherical or fibrous form or any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

[0234] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0235] As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, natural or synthetic mica such as synthetic fluorphlogopite, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or composites of silica and titanium dioxide (such as those sold by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. series).

[0236] According to one particular embodiment, an inorganic filler chosen from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0237] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of micronized natural waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine; or cellulose powders, such as those produced by Daito in Japan under the trade name Those sold in series.

[0238] Preferably, the filler is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0240] Depending on the viscosity of the composition desired to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic (that is to say soluble or dispersible in the oil phase) gelling agents may be incorporated into the composition of the invention.

[0241] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent will be selected from natural gelling agents or gelling agents of natural origin.

[0242] For example, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel from Rheox) ), hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteardimethyl ammonium hectorite), such as the one sold by Veyron Corporation under the name “Bentone 38 ” Products for sale.

[0243] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprises, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0244] a) a continuous oil phase, the oil phase comprising at least:

[0245] (i) a mixture of undecane and tridecane; and

[0246] (ii) macadamia oil and / or olive oil; and

[0247] b) an aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, the aqueous phase comprising:

[0248] i) tannic acid; and

[0249] ii) pullulan; and

[0250] c) surfactant polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate; and

[0251] d) at least 1,3-propylene glycol; and

[0252] e) at least glycerol.

[0253] According to a particular embodiment, the composition additionally comprises f) at least one sugar alcohol, and more particularly sorbitol.

[0254] According to a specific embodiment, the composition further comprises g) at least one saturated and linear C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, and more particularly glyceryl caprylate.

[0255] According to a specific embodiment, the composition further comprises h) at least one pigment chosen from: iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof; or iron oxide coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, titanium dioxide coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound; and mixtures thereof.

[0256] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises i) at least one inorganic filler, more particularly chosen from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0257] According to a specific embodiment, the composition further comprises j) at least one natural or naturally derived hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one natural or naturally derived lipophilic gelling agent, and more preferably at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from modified clays, and more particularly hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), such as the one sold by the company Veyron under the name “Bentone 38 ” or the product “Bentone 38VCG” from Elementis.

[0258] The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a composition as defined above in a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0259] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition has to be applied and also to the physical appearance in which the composition has to be packaged.

[0260] The compositions according to the invention may also contain additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products, such as active agents such as vitamins, for example vitamin A, E, C, B3, sunscreens, fillers, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrances, neutralizers, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0261] It is a routine operation for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, such that the desired cosmetic properties of these compositions are not thereby affected.

[0262] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for caring for the skin, in particular of the body or face, especially of the face.

[0263] According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0264] Thus, according to one sub-mode of this embodiment, the composition of the present invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0265] The composition of the invention may advantageously be provided in the form of a foundation.

[0266] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, the composition of the invention can advantageously be provided in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face. It can thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.

[0267] Such compositions are prepared in particular according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0268] Packaging and Applicators

[0269] The composition according to the invention may be packaged in a container defining at least one compartment containing said composition, said container being closed by a closure member.

[0270] The container may be in any suitable form. It may in particular be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a can or a box.

[0271] The closure member may be in the form of a removable plug, lid or cover, in particular in the form of a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged on the body. It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing the container, in particular a pump, a valve or a flap valve.

[0272] The container can be combined with an applicator, in particular in the form of a thin brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2722380. The applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator can be free (sponge) or securely fastened to a rod carried by a closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5492426. The applicator can be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2761959.

[0273] The product may be contained directly or indirectly in the container.

[0274] The closure member may be connected to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the connection between the closure member and the container occurs by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by clamping. The term "click-fastening" particularly means any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a part, in particular the closure member, and then returning to an elastically unrestricted position of the part after the crossing of the bead or cord.

[0275] The container may be at least partially made of a thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.

[0276] The container may have rigid or deformable walls and may be in particular in the form of a tube or vial.

[0277] The container may include means intended to cause or promote dispensing of the composition. For example, the container may have a deformable wall so as to allow the composition to leave in response to an over-pressurization of the interior of the container caused by elastic (or inelastic) compression of the container wall.

[0278] The container may be equipped with a drainer located near the opening of the container. Such a drainer enables wiping of the applicator and possibly the rod to which the applicator may be securely fastened. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2792618.

[0279] Throughout the specification (including the claims), the term "comprising one" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0280] The expressions “between . . . and . . ” and “ranging from . . . to . . ” should be understood to mean including the limit values, unless otherwise stated.

[0281] The invention is explained in more detail by means of the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed in mass percent.

[0282] Example 1 and Counterexample 1

[0283] Composition 1 according to the present invention and Counter Example 1 outside the present invention were prepared.

[0284]

[0285]

[0286] Protocol for preparing the composition

[0287] The composition of the invention is produced by preparing a pigment-free white base to which the pigment preparation is added in a second step.

[0288] Preparation of white base

[0289] The oily phase A1 is introduced into the main beaker placed on a hot plate at 60° C. under stirring using a Moritz type homogenizer.

[0290] Once the temperature was at 60°C, Hectorite A2 was introduced with stirring for 15 minutes until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.

[0291] The mixture is then cooled to ambient temperature and kept stirring, then phase A3 is added with stirring for 5 minutes. Finally, phase A4 is introduced with stirring for 10 minutes.

[0292] Pullulan B2 is added to the aqueous phase B1 (the water of which is preheated to 95° C.) under stirring using a Rayneri type homogenizer for 20 minutes. Phase B3 is then added under stirring for 10 minutes and phase B4 is added under stirring for 20 minutes. Finally, phase B5 is added under stirring for 5 minutes.

[0293] The emulsion is formed at ambient temperature by pouring the aqueous phase into the fat phase and placing in a bath of water and ice while gradually increasing the stirring speed until a vortex is obtained. Formulation is carried out using a Mortiz type homogenizer.

[0294] Stirring was maintained for 10 minutes. Subsequently, the alcohol (phase C) was introduced and the mixture was maintained under stirring for 5 minutes.

[0295] Dyeing of white base materials

[0296] The white base is introduced into a beaker, placed in a bath of water and ice and then phase D is slowly added under stirring. Stirring is then maintained under vortex for 20 minutes. The formulation is carried out using a Rayneri type homogenizer.

[0297] Wear characteristics test

[0298] plan

[0299] The wear properties are characterized by a transfer index determined using a friction test when dry, in the presence of sebum, and in the presence of water, as described below.

[0300] A support (square of 40 mm x 40 mm) consisting of a layer of neoprene foam (on one of its faces adhesive) sold under the name RE70X40 212B from the company Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind. is prepared. An adhesive crown with an inner diameter of 24 mm and a thickness of about 250 μm is applied to the non-adhesive face of the support. The composition is applied inside the crown and then leveled with a glass slide to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 250 μm thickness, and the support is then dried in an oven at 37° C. for 24 hours.

[0301] The crown is then removed and a drop of 10 μl of artificial sebum having the following composition is applied in the center on a support intended to measure the resistance to friction in the presence of sebum:

[0302] Element concentration Triisostearate 28.7 Hydrogenated polyisobutylene 13.7 Oleic acid 28.0 Oleyl erucate 22.9 Octyldodecanol 6.7

[0303] All supports were dried at ambient temperature for 45 minutes.

[0304] The support was then adhesively bonded via its adhesive face to a 35 mm x 35 mm square base weight 14 cm high and having a mass of about 1 kg. On one sheet was shown a strip 3.5 cm wide and 20.75 cm long, and within the strip were 5 squares, each having a length of 4.15 cm along the longitudinal axis of the strip. This sheet was placed on a vacuum pump (DOA-P504- ) of the BYK-DriveAuto from BYK Instruments ). The support, which is adhesively bonded to the weight, is then placed on the first frame of the strip and the spreader is turned on so that the weight with the support moves in a straight and uniform manner over the entire length of the strip. The speed at which the weight with the support moves is about 2.5 cm / s. The trajectory of the product placed on the strip of paper is observed. A mark is then assigned from 0 to 5, 0 corresponding to no transfer of the composition, 3 corresponding to partial transfer, and 5 corresponding to significant transfer. The remaining composition on the support is also observed in order to check whether it is changed by friction.

[0305] result

[0306]

[0307] It is noted that the composition of Example 1 has a transfer index of 0 and the deposit is not modified, in contrast to Counter Example 1, which shows a high transfer index and whose deposit is modified in the presence of sebum. In addition, Example 1 has better wear properties than Counter Example 1, both when dry and in the presence of sebum. Thus, it is noted that the presence of polyphenol X in combination with nonionic polysaccharide Y promotes the wear properties of the deposit obtained with the composition.

Claims

1. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oil phase, the oil phase comprising: i) at least one vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in the oil phase, the aqueous phase comprising: i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenolic groups, and ii) at least one nonionic polysaccharide Y, and iii) at least one polyol; c) at least one polyglycerolated nonionic, preferably non-silicone surfactant having an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

2. The composition according to claim 1, which does not contain any silicone.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising an oily phase in a content varying from 5% to 95%, particularly from 10% to 80%, particularly from 15% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein The non-volatile vegetable oil is selected from macadamia nut oil, olive oil and a mixture thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5% to 50% by weight, particularly ranging from 1% to 25% by weight and more particularly ranging from 1% to 10% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The volatile alkane is selected from branched alkanes, such as C8-C 16 The isoalkane is especially chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and more particularly isododecane.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein The volatile alkane is selected from volatile straight chain C6-C 14 Alkanes, in particular selected from n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (C 11 ), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ), and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein The volatile straight chain alkane is a volatile straight chain C9-C12 alkane with the INCI name 12 A mixture of alkanes.

9. The composition according to claim 7, wherein The volatile straight chain alkane is n-undecane (C 11 ) and n-tridecane (C 13 ).

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The volatile alkane is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight, specifically from 1% to 50% by weight and more specifically from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The oil phase also comprises at least one further nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, in particular dicaprylyl ether.

12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein The additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is present in a concentration less than or equal to 50% by weight and more particularly ranging from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oil to the total amount of volatile alkanes ranges from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 20 to 1 / 5.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The weight ratio of the total amount of non-volatile vegetable oils and additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils to the total amount of volatile alkanes ranges from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1.

15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyphenols are selected from catechin tannins, in particular from gallotannins and ellagitannins.

16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyphenol X is tannic acid.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 65% and even more preferably from 20% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyphenol X is present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight and more particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyphenol X is present in an amount ranging from 1.0% to 30.0% by weight and more particularly ranging from 2.0% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The nonionic polysaccharide Y is selected from pullulan; cellulose such as cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; modified guar gum; and mixtures thereof.

21. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The nonionic polysaccharide Y is unmodified pullulan.

22. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyglycerol emulsifying nonionic surfactant with HLB≤8 is selected from: - esters of isostearic acid and polyglycerols containing from 2 to 10 mol of glycerol units, such as, for example, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate; polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate; polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate; polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; - esters of stearic acid and polyglycerols containing 2 or 3 mol of glycerol units, such as polyglyceryl-2 sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate and polyglyceryl-2 stearate; - esters of oleic acid and polyglycerols containing 2 to 3 mol of glycerol units, such as polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-3 oleate, polyglycerol-2 dioleate; polyglycerol-3 dioleate; - polyglycerol polyricinoleate containing from 3 to 6 mol of glycerol units, such as polyglycerol-3 polyricinoleate; polyglycerol-5; polyglycerol-6 polyricinoleate; - mixtures thereof.

23. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyglycerolated emulsifying nonionic surfactant with HLB≤8 is selected from polyglycerol polyricinoleate containing from 3 to 6 mol of glycerol units, in particular polyglycerol-6 polyricinoleate.

24. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2 to 10% by weight, in particular from 2 to 7% by weight, of a polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant having an HLB ≤ 8, relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol X to the sum of the reactive hydroxyl groups of the nonionic polysaccharide Y reacted with the polyphenol X and the reactive polyglycerolated groups of the polyglycerolated nonionic surfactant preferably ranges from 1 / 3 to 20, more preferably from 1 / 2 to 15 and more particularly from 3 / 4 to 3.

26. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyol is selected from C3-C4 alkanediol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof, in particular, selected from propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

27. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The polyol is a mixture of propylene glycol and glycerol.

28. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total amount of polyols of from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising at least one sugar alcohol; preferably selected from sorbitol.

30. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one saturated and linear C7-C 14 Monoesters of carboxylic acids and glycerol, said monoesters are preferably selected from: - Glyceryl heptanoate (C7); - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8); - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8) / Caprate (C10); - Glyceryl caprate (C10); - Glyceryl laurate (C12); - Glyceryl myristate (C14); - mixtures thereof, and more particularly glyceryl caprylate.

31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one monohydric alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and more particularly ethanol.

32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one pulverulent colorant, preferably chosen from pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof; and more particularly from mineral pigments chosen from metal oxides, in particular coated or uncoated titanium dioxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler, preferably at least one inorganic filler, more particularly chosen from natural or synthetic mica, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

34. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said gelling agent is preferably natural or of natural origin and is more particularly chosen from modified clays.

35. A cosmetic method for coating, especially making up, keratin materials, especially skin, such as face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, said cosmetic method comprising at least: The step of applying to said keratin material a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

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