Sunscreen composition

By replacing ethylhexyl sebacate with diethylhexyl sebacate in the sunscreen composition and combining alkanediol, the problem of saponification effect of the sunscreen composition is solved, improving the skin feeling and appearance while ensuring sufficient UV protection.

CN119654127APending Publication Date: 2025-03-18DSM IP ASSETS BV
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Patent Information

Application Number
CN202380056857.2
Authority / Receiving Office
CN · China
Patent Type
Applications(China)
Current Assignee / Owner
Priority Date
2022-08-08
Filing Date
2023-08-03
Publication Date
2025-03-18

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing sunscreen compositions are prone to saponification during use, resulting in unwanted white or blue residues on the skin, affecting the skin's feeling and appearance. At the same time, consumers may use too little sunscreen to reduce the saponification effect, reducing the skin's protective effect on UV radiation.

Method used

By replacing ethylhexyl sebacate with diethylhexyl sebacate in the sunscreen composition, combining one or more alkanediols, the saponification effect is reduced and the skin feel and appearance is enhanced.

Benefits of technology

Effectively reduce the saponification effect of the sunscreen composition, provide a better skin feeling and appearance, while ensuring sufficient UV protection, solving the problem that consumers may use too little sunscreen.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a sunscreen composition containing bis (ethylhexyloxy) phenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate, and one or more alkanediol, with the proviso that the composition does not contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. The composition exhibits a reduced saponification effect and thus a more attractive skin feel and appearance.
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Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a sunscreen composition comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate and one or more alkanediols, provided that the composition does not contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. The composition exhibits reduced saponification effects and is therefore more attractive to the skin feel and appearance.

[0002] Sunscreens should be effective and safe. In this regard, sunscreens contain different UVB filters and UVA filters. Among these UV filters, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT) is particularly advantageous because it is a broad-spectrum UV absorber that absorbs UVB rays as well as UVA rays, which is highly photostable. Overall, it is currently considered to be the most effective UV absorber available by SPF measurement based on the maximum concentrations allowed by European legislation. However, as a solid UV filter, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine needs to be effectively solubilized in order to be incorporated into the sunscreen composition and to avoid its recrystallization in the sunscreen composition during storage. An effective solvent for bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Since this compound is also an effective UV-B filter, these two ingredients are often used together in sunscreen compositions.

[0003] Sunscreens in emulsion form tend to exhibit a saponification effect, ie they tend to produce a whitish / bluish residue on the skin.

[0004] In short, saponification is the incorporation of air into an emulsion through exposure to air and agitation. For example, when you vigorously apply lotion to the skin, a thin film of tiny bubbles appears as a white film. Over time, the emulsion becomes unstable due to evaporation and the foam breaks. Even if the initial saponification effect does disappear, it is generally undesirable in lotions and creams.

[0005] In order to reduce or even prevent the effects, consumers tend to use less sunscreen, but at the same time they are also less protected. The adverse effects of UV radiation on the skin are well known. It is therefore important that the industry provide solutions to such problems to encourage consumers to apply enough sunscreen to achieve adequate protection.

[0006] For many years, formulators have understood that silicones (e.g., polydimethylsiloxane) impart a defoaming effect. As the cosmetics market evolves toward greener options, the use of certain silicones has come under increasing scrutiny due to their environmental fate in both production and waste streams. Formulators, therefore, faced with new demands to control saponification without the use of silicones, are seeking alternative solutions to reduce the undesirable saponification effect.

[0007] EP 3714865 relates to the solubilization of organic UV filters such as BEMT, but not to the saponification of cosmetic compositions comprising BEMT, which is the technical problem to be solved by the present invention.

[0008] Surprisingly, it has now been found that replacing ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EMC) with diethylhexyl sebacate as a solvent for bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in compositions also comprising one or more alkanediols surprisingly reduces the saponification effect of such cosmetic compositions, thereby resulting in a more attractive skin feel and appearance.

[0009] Thus, in a first embodiment, the present invention provides a sunscreen composition in the form of an emulsion, the sunscreen composition comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate and one or more alkanediols, with the proviso that the composition does not contain (i.e., does not contain) ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

[0010] Another subject of the present invention relates to a method for reducing the saponification effect of a sunscreen composition comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, said method comprising the steps of replacing the total amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate contained in the sunscreen composition with diethylhexyl sebacate and optionally appreciating said effect. Preferably, said method comprises the steps of replacing the amount of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate contained in the sunscreen composition with the same amount of diethylhexyl sebacate.

[0011] In a preferred embodiment, the composition also does not contain any silicone, such as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0012] In all embodiments of the present invention, the term "ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate-free" or "silicone-free" means that no ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate or silicone is intentionally added to the composition, i.e. the corresponding compounds cannot be detected by standard analytical means (e.g. HPLC).

[0013] The term silicone is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to organic silicon compounds, such as silicone oils. Exemplary silicones commonly used in cosmetics are, for example, polysiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane, and cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclomethicone.

[0014] The term "emulsion" as used herein refers to a composition containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, such as, in particular, an O / W, W / O, Si / W, W / Si, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple or Pickering emulsion, preferably an O / W, W / O, O / W / O, W / O / W multiple or Pickering emulsion.

[0015] Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (also referred to herein as BEMT) is also known as 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (chemical name) or bemotrizinol (INN). BEMT acts as a broad-spectrum UV filter that absorbs UVB rays as well as UVA rays. It has two absorption peaks, 310nm and 340nm. BEMT is recommended for use in sunscreen, day care, letter products (e.g., BB cream) whitening products.

[0016] In all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of BEMT in the sunscreen composition of the present invention is advantageously selected from the following ranges, based on the total weight of the composition: 0.4% to 10%, preferably 0.4% to 9%, 0.4% to 8%, 0.4% to 7%, 0.4% to 6%, 0.4% to 5%, 0.4% to 4%, 0.4% to 3%, 0.5% to 3%, 0.8% to 9%, 0.8% to 8%, 0.8% to 7%, 0.8% to 6%, 0.8% to 5%, 0.8% to 4%, 0.8% to 3%, for example 1% to 5%, 1% to 3%, 2% to 5% or 2% to 4%.

[0017] Diethylhexyl sebacate [CAS 122-62-3] is also known as bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate and is commercially available under the trade name Zetemol OSB.

[0018] In all embodiments of the invention, the (total) amount of diethylhexyl sebacate in the sunscreen composition of the invention is advantageously at least 1 wt.-%, preferably at least 2 wt.-%, most preferably at least 2.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0019] In all embodiments of the invention, the (total) amount of diethylhexyl sebacate is less than or equal to 25 wt.-%, preferably less than or equal to 15 wt.-%, even more preferably less than or equal to 10 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0020] Even more preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the amount of diethylhexyl sebacate is selected from the range of 10 wt % to 35 wt %, more preferably the range of 15 wt % to 30 wt %, most preferably the range of 17 wt % to 25 wt %, such as the range of 15 wt % to 25 wt %, 17 wt % to 30 wt % or 17 wt % to 25 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition. Another suitable range is 1 wt % to 5 wt %.

[0021] In another embodiment of the present invention, it is advantageous that the amount of diethylhexyl sebacate in the composition of the present invention is selected from the range of 1 wt % to 10 wt %, more preferably the range of 1 wt % to 7.5 wt %, most preferably the range of 1 wt % to 5 wt %, for example the range of 2 wt % to 10 wt %, the range of 2.5 wt % to 10 wt %, the range of 2 wt % to 7.5 wt %, the range of 2.5 wt % to 7.5 wt %, the range of 2 wt % to 5 wt % or the range of 2.5 wt % to 5 wt %. Another suitable range is 1 wt % to 5 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

[0022] In all embodiments of the present invention, the ratio of the total amount of diethylhexyl sebacate to the total amount of BEMT is preferably selected from the range of 1: 1 to 25: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 20: 1, most preferably from 5: 1 to 15: 1. Other suitable ranges are 3: 1 to 10: 1 and 1: 1 to 5: 1.

[0023] In all embodiments of the present invention, the sunscreen composition of the present invention further comprises one or more alkanediols. Suitable alkanediols encompass 1,2-alkanediols and 1,3-alkanediols, such as in particular 1,2-butanediol, butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and 1,3-propylene glycol. In all embodiments of the present invention, it is preferred to use 1,3-propylene glycol, butanediol and / or 1,2-butanediol. In all embodiments of the present invention, it is most preferred that the composition comprises 1,3-propylene glycol, butanediol and 1,2-butanediol as alkanediols, preferably in the absence of any further alkanediols. Even more preferably, the composition comprises butanediol, even more preferably as the only alkanediol.

[0024] The total amount of alkanediol in the sunscreen composition of the present invention is preferably selected from the range of 1 wt.% to 10 wt.%, more preferably from 1.5 wt.% to 7.5 wt.%, most preferably from 2 wt.% to 6 wt.%, for example from 2 wt.% to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0025] Preferably, in all embodiments of the present invention, the composition further comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB).

[0026] In the sunscreen composition of the present invention, The amount of commercially available butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is preferably selected from the range of 1 wt % to 10 wt %, more preferably from 1.5 wt % to 7.5 wt %, most preferably from 2 wt % to 6 wt %, for example from 2 wt % to 5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The sunscreen composition according to the present invention is DHHB or The amount of diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate commercially available from A plus is preferably selected from the range of 1 wt% to 10 wt%, more preferably from 1.5 wt% to 7.5 wt%, most preferably from 2 wt% to 6 wt%, for example from 2 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0028] Since the sunscreen compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application, it is known that they comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium compatible with keratinous materials such as the skin, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers. In particular, the physiologically acceptable medium is a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

[0029] It is fully understood that the term sunscreen composition as used herein refers to a composition comprising at least BEMT, preferably in the presence of further substances that absorb UV light, such as in the presence of conventional UVA, UVB or broadband UV filter substances. It is however fully understood that the composition does not contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and preferably also does not contain silicone.

[0030] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the composition comprises BEMT and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, preferably as the only UV filters.

[0031] In another embodiment, it is preferred that the composition comprises BEMT and diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, preferably as the only UV filters.

[0032] The term "cosmetically acceptable carrier" as used herein refers to all carriers and / or excipients and / or diluents conventionally used in topical cosmetic compositions, such as in particular skin care preparations.

[0033] The exact amount of carrier will depend on the actual level of the UV filter material and any other optional ingredients that one of ordinary skill in the art would classify as different from a carrier (eg, other active ingredients).

[0034] In an advantageous embodiment, the sunscreen composition according to the invention comprises 50% to 99%, preferably 60% to 98%, more preferably 70% to 98%, such as in particular 80% to 95% of carrier, based on the total weight of the sunscreen composition.

[0035] In a particularly advantageous embodiment, the carrier also consists of at least 30% by weight, more preferably at least 40% by weight, most preferably at least 45% by weight of water, such as in particular 50% to 90% by weight of water. Other suitable ranges are 50% to 75% by weight, 50% to 70% by weight and 55% to 65% by weight.

[0036] In particular, the sunscreen composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition or a pharmaceutical composition, preferably a cosmetic (non-therapeutic) composition.

[0037] In one embodiment, the sunscreen composition according to the invention is applied to mammalian keratinous tissue, such as in particular to human skin or human scalp and hair.

[0038] As used in this application, the term "cosmetic composition" refers to Lexikon Chemie, 10 th Cosmetic compositions as defined under the title "Kosmetika" in A. Domsch, "Cosmetic Compositions", Verlag fürchemische Industrie (ed. H. Ziolkowsky), 4 th The cosmetic composition disclosed in WO2005 / 036664, edition, 1992.

[0039] Preferred sunscreen compositions according to the invention are skin care products, decorative products and functional products.

[0040] Examples of skin care preparations are, in particular, photoprotective preparations, anti-aging preparations, preparations for the treatment of photoaging, body milks, body gels, care creams, skin ointments, balms, moisturizing gels, moisturizing sprays, face and / or body moisturizers, skin tanning preparations (i.e. compositions for the artificial / sunless tanning and / or browning of human skin), for example self-tanning creams, and skin-lightening preparations.

[0041] Examples of decorative preparations are in particular mascaras or wet and dry make-up preparations.

[0042] Examples of functional preparations are cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing active ingredients, such as, but not limited to, hormone preparations, vitamin preparations, plant extract preparations, anti-aging preparations, and / or antimicrobial (antibacterial or antifungal) preparations.

[0043] In a particular embodiment, the sunscreen composition according to the invention is a photoprotective preparation (sunscreen product, sunscreen), such as a sun protection milk, sun protection lotion, sun cream, sun block or a topical or day care cream with or without an SPF (sun protection factor) label. Of particular interest are sun creams, sun protection lotions and sun protection milks.

[0044] The compositions of the invention (including carriers) may contain conventional adjuvants and additives, such as preservatives / antioxidants, fatty substances / oils, organic solvents, silicones, thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, antifoaming agents, aesthetic components (e.g. fragrances), surfactants, fillers, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, propellants, acidulants or alkalizers, dyes, colorants / dyes, abrasives, absorbents, chelating and / or sequestrants, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, pigments, or any other ingredient typically formulated into such compositions.

[0045] According to the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise additional ingredients, for example for lightening the skin; preventing tanning; treating hyperpigmentation; preventing or reducing acne, wrinkles, fine lines, atrophy and / or inflammation; chelating agents and / or chelates; ingredients for cellulite reduction and slimming (e.g. phytanic acid), firming, moisturizing and revitalizing, self-tanning, soothing agents, and agents for improving elasticity and the skin barrier, and carriers and / or excipients or diluents conventionally used in sunscreen compositions.

[0046] If not stated otherwise, the excipients, additives, diluents etc. mentioned below are suitable for use in the sunscreen compositions according to the invention. The necessary amounts of cosmetic and dermatological auxiliaries and additives can be easily determined by the skilled person based on the desired product.

[0047] The additional ingredients may be added to the oil phase, the water phase or separately as appropriate. The mode of addition can be easily adapted by those skilled in the art.

[0048] Examples of cosmetic excipients, diluents, adjuvants, additives and active ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry suitable for use in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are described, for example, in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary & Handbook by Personal Care (http: / / www.personalcarecouncil.org / ) provided by the Personal Care Products Council, which can be accessed through the online INFO BASE (http: / / online.personalcarecouncil.org / jsp / Home.jsp), but are not limited thereto.

[0049] In some cases, the cosmetic active ingredients useful herein provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.

[0050] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to select the above-mentioned optional additional ingredients, adjuvants, diluents and additives and / or their amounts so that the advantageous properties essentially associated with the combination according to the invention are not or are not substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition or additions.

[0051] The content of the oil phase (i.e. the phase containing all oils and fats) in the emulsion of the present invention is preferably at least 10 wt.-%, for example in the range of 10 to 60 wt.-%, preferably in the range of 15 to 50 wt.-%, most preferably in the range of 15 to 40 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0052] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the sunscreen composition according to the invention as outlined herein is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier. The preparation of such O / W emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art and is illustrated in the examples.

[0053] In an advantageous embodiment, the O / W emulsifier is a phosphate emulsifier. Among the preferred phosphate emulsifiers are C8-10 alkyl ethyl phosphate, C9-15 alkyl phosphate, ceteareth-2 phosphate, ceteareth-5 phosphate, ceteth-8 phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, cetyl phosphate, C6-10 pareth-4 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-2 phosphate, C12-15 pareth-3 phosphate, DEA-ceteareth-2 phosphate, DEA-cetyl phosphate, DEA-oleth-3 phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, decereth-4 phosphate, decereth-6 phosphate and trilaureth-4 phosphate. A specific phosphate emulsifier of the present invention is potassium cetyl phosphate, which can be used, for example, as K is commercially available from DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Kaiseraugst.

[0054] Other suitable O / W emulsifiers according to the present invention include PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-8 dioleate, PEG-40 sorbitan monooleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, PEG-7 palm kernelate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-80 Sorbitan laurate, steareth-2, steareth-12, oleth-2, ceteth-2, laureth-4, oleth-10, oleth-10 / PEG-10 oleyl ether, ceteth-10, isosteareth-20, ceteareth-20, oleth-20, steareth-20, steareth-21, ceteth-20, isoceteth-20, laureth-23, steareth-100, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearic acid salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate. Other suitable emulsifiers are sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sucrose polystearate and hydrated polyisobutylene. In addition, one or more synthetic polymers can be used as emulsifiers. For example, PVP eicosene copolymer, acrylate / C 10-30Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Another particularly suitable class of O / W emulsifiers are the nonionic self-emulsifying systems derived from olive oil, such as the ones known as (INCI name) cetyl olive oil and sorbitan olivate (chemical composition: sorbitan esters and cetearyl esters of olive oil fatty acids), sold under the trade name OLIVEM 1000.

[0056] Also suitable are commercially available polymeric emulsifiers, such as hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, for example acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, which are available under the trade name TR-1 and TR-2 are commercially available from Noveon.

[0057] Likewise suitable are polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example Brij 72 (polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether) or Brij 721 (polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether, available for example from Croda).

[0058] Particularly advantageous O / W emulsifiers according to the invention are one or more of the following: polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, lauryl glucoside (and) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucoside; polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate, olive oil cetyl alcohol esters (and) sorbitan olive oil esters, rosemaryl alcohol esters; Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Coco-Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside (and) Coconut Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-25, Steareth-2, Ceteareth-25 and Ceteareth-6 (all listed by their INCI names).

[0059] It is particularly preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises potassium cetyl phosphate as emulsifier.

[0060] The at least one O / W or Si / W type emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt.-%, such as specifically in the range of 0.5 to 5 wt.-%, such as most specifically in the range of 0.5 to 4 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Suitable W / O or W / Si emulsifiers according to the invention are polyglycerol esters or fatty acid diesters, also called polyglycerol esters / diesters (i.e. polymers in which one or more fatty acids are bound to polyglycerol by esterification), commercially available, for example, from Evonik as Isolan GPS [INCI name Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (i.e. a diester of a mixture of isostearic acid, polyhydroxystearic acid and sebacic acid with polyglyceryl-4)] or from Cognis as Dehymuls PGPH (INCI Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate), PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate polyglyceryl esters of oleic / isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 hexaricinolate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, magnesium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium laurate, potassium ricinoleate. Suitable W / Si emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, sodium ricinoleate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate, potassium castorate, sodium oleate, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable W / Si emulsifiers are lauryl polyglyceryl-3, polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and / or PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and / or cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone and / or PEG-12 dimethicone crosspolymer and / or PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone. The at least one W / O emulsifier is preferably used in an amount of about 0.001 wt % to 10 wt %, more preferably 0.2 wt % to 7 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] In addition, the sunscreen composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one co-surfactant, for example selected from the group consisting of mono- and di-glycerides and / or fatty alcohols. The co-surfactant is generally used in an amount selected from the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, such as in particular the range of 0.5% to 7% by weight, such as most particularly the range of 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Particularly suitable co-surfactants are selected from the following list: alkyl alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol (Lorol C16, Lanette 16), cetearyl alcohol (Lanette O), stearyl alcohol (Lanette 18), behenyl alcohol (Lanette 22), polyhydroxystearic acid, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl myristate (Estol 3650), hydrogenated coconut oil glyceride (Lipocire Na10) and mixtures thereof.

[0063] In all embodiments of the invention, it is particularly advantageous if the composition further comprises cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and / or glyceryl stearate, preferably stearyl alcohol.

[0064] Advantageous embodiments of the composition of the invention also include those in which the composition comprises one or more oils selected from the group consisting of dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, C 12 -C 15 Alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-C tartrate 12-13 Alkyl esters, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate, hydrogenated castor oil dimerate, triheptanoin, C 12-13 Alkyl lactate, C 16-17 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylate, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl cocoate. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises as oils dibutyl adipate, phenethyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C 12 -C 15 Alkyl benzoate, caprylyl carbonate, capric / caprylic triglyceride and mixtures thereof, most preferably dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate and C 12 -C 15 Alkyl benzoate.

[0065] It is fully understood that the total amount of oil (including the amount of diethylhexyl sebacate), in particular the amount of oil listed above in all embodiments of the present invention, is selected so that all solid UV filters present in the composition (including BEMT) are completely dissolved and do not recrystallize upon storage (at least 3 months at room temperature). The selection of suitable amounts is well known to those skilled in the art. Suitable amounts are, for example, in the range of 15% to 45%, 20% to 40% and 20% to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the exemplified composition.

[0066] In still another advantageous aspect of the present invention, the sunscreen composition of the present invention further comprises a preservative and / or a preservative synergist, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, propanediol, propylene glycol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, more preferably selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol, hexylglycerol, caprylic acid glyceride and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from the group consisting of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol and mixtures thereof. When present, the preservative or preservative synergist is preferably used in an amount of 0.01% to 2% by weight (in total), more preferably in an amount of 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, and most preferably in an amount of 0.1% to 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0067] It is further advantageous according to the invention if the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol, phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerol.

[0068] In another advantageous aspect, the sunscreen composition according to the invention does not contain any parabens, benzethonium chloride, piroctone olamine, lauroyl arginine, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, bronopol, benzalkonium chloride, formaldehyde-releasing compounds, salicylic acid, triclosan, DMDM ​​hydantoin, chlorphenesin and IPBC (Iodopropinylbutyl carbamat).

[0069] In another advantageous aspect, the sunscreen composition according to the invention is also free of oxybenzone and / or methylbenzylidene camphor.

[0070] The sunscreen composition according to the present invention may further contain one or more emollients that soothe and soften the skin. As examples, the emollients may be silicones (dimethicone, cyclomethicone), vegetable oils (grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, jojoba oil, etc.), butters (cocoa butter, shea butter), and petrolatum derivatives (petrolatum, mineral oil).

[0071] In another aspect, the sunscreen composition of the present invention may comprise one or more fragrances selected from limonene, citral, linalool, α-isomethyl ionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-amylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, diester of adipate, cinnamaldehyde, amyl salicylate, α-amyl cinnamaldehyde, α-methyl ionone, butylphenyl methylpropional, cinnamaldehyde, amyl cinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, Benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot essential oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenyl methylpropional, cardamom essential oil, cedrol, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, methyl citronellyl crotonate, citrus oil, coumarin, diethyl succinate, ethyl linalool, eugenol, tree moss extract, oak moss extract, farnesol, guaiac wood oil, hexyl cinnamaldehyde, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, lavender oil, lemon oil, linalyl acetate, tangerine peel oil, menthol PCA ester, methyl hexadecane, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate, vanillin.

[0072] The composition of the present invention may advantageously comprise a humectant. A humectant is a compound or mixture of compounds which imparts to the cosmetic composition the quality of reducing water loss from the stratum corneum (measured experimentally, for example, by transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or positively influencing the hydration of the stratum corneum and / or maintaining the actual hydration state after application or distribution on the skin surface.

[0073] Non-limiting examples of advantageous humectants for use in the present invention include glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, biosaccharide gum-1, soya bean, ethylhexylglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. A further advantage is in particular the use of polymeric humectants from the group of polysaccharides that are water-soluble and / or swellable in water and / or gellable with the aid of water. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or fucose-rich polysaccharides, which are registered in Chemical Abstracts under registration number 178463-23-5 and can be obtained, for example, under the name 1000 is available from SOLABIAS, A. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as active anti-wrinkle ingredients to protect against the type of skin changes that occur, for example, with skin aging.

[0074] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may advantageously (although not obligatory) further comprise fillers which have the effect, for example, of further improving the organoleptic and cosmetic properties of the preparation and of evoking or enhancing, for example, a velvety or silky skin feel. Advantageous fillers in the sense of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (for example tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate or sodium starch octenylsuccinate, etc.), Valvance pigments which have neither a major UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (for example Valvance Touch 210 or Valvance Touch 250) and / or and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon and silica dimethyl silylate.

[0075] The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise customary cosmetic adjuvants, such as alcohols, in particular low-carbon alcohols, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, or low-carbon polyols, and their ethers, preferably glycerol; electrolytes; self-tanning agents; and in particular also one or more thickeners, which may advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and / or their derivatives, such as hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and particularly advantageously from the group consisting of polyacrylates, preferably from the group known as carbomers, examples being carbomer type 980, carbomer type 981, carbomer type 1382, carbomer type 2984 and carbomer type 5984, in each case alone or in combination. Advantageous additional thickeners according to the invention are those with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (e.g. Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbomer 1328 from NOVEON) and also Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) and Simugel NS (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer and Squalane and Polysorbate 60). Further suitable thickeners in all embodiments of the invention are biopolymers such as microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, Sphingomonas ferment extract.

[0076] It is preferred according to the present invention that if the composition comprises one or more thickeners, the one or more thickeners are selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, cross-linked acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate polymers, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers and / or vinyl pyrrolidone / hexadecane copolymers, preferably xanthan gum and / or hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate, most preferably both xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate.

[0077] The (total) amount of the one or more thickeners in the composition according to the invention is preferably selected from the range of 0.1 wt.-% to 1 wt.-%, preferably 0.1 wt.-% to 0.75 wt.-%, most preferably 0.1 wt.-% to 0.5 wt.-%, for example 0.2 wt.-% to 0.5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0078] In another aspect, the composition may have an SPF of at least 15, preferably at least 20, most preferably at least 30.

[0079] Advantageously according to the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise a further film-forming agent.

[0080] It is particularly advantageous to select the additional film-forming agent from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and caprylylglycerol / sebacic acid copolymer, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate and / or ethylcellulose.

[0081] Particularly preferred are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, such as PVP hexadecane copolymer and PVP eicosene copolymer, which are available from GAF Chemicals Corporation under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220.

[0082] Also advantageous are further polymeric film formers, such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, which is available from National Starch and Chemical Corp. under the trade name Flexan 130; and / or polyisobutylene, which is available from Rewo under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000. Examples of further suitable polymers are polyacrylamide (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohol, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyethylene glycol, acrylate / octylacrylamide copolymers (Dermacryl 79). Also advantageous is the use of hydrogenated castor oil dimer dioleate (INCI Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate), which is available from Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo under the name Risocast DA-H; or PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, which is available from Croda Chemicals under the trade name Crodamol STS.

[0083] The pH of the sunscreen composition of the present invention is generally in the range of 3 to 10, preferably in the range of pH 4 to 8, and most preferably in the range of pH 4 to 7. The pH can be easily adjusted as required with a suitable acid (e.g., citric acid) or base (e.g., NaOH) according to standard methods in the art.

[0084] According to the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for protection against skin ageing, in particular protection against UV-induced skin ageing, and as a sunscreen composition.

[0085] Finally, the subject of the present invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, such as in particular the skin, wherein a composition as defined herein is applied to said keratinous substances, such as in particular the skin. This method is particularly suitable for protecting the skin from the adverse effects of UV radiation, such as in particular sunburn and / or photoaging, while at the same time avoiding fluorescent stains on clothes and / or garments.

[0086] The following examples are provided to further illustrate the compositions and effects of the present invention. These examples are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention in any way.

[0087] Experimental Section

[0088] preparation

[0089] The formulations listed in Table 1 (O / W emulsions) have been prepared according to standard methods in the art.

[0090] method

[0091] The saponification effect was determined on LENETA black cards according to the method outlined below:

[0092] - Apply 300mg of cream on LENETA black card

[0093] - Apply the cream using a 90 mm applicator knife through a spreading device (speed: 10 mm / s) to obtain a uniform film thickness

[0094] - LAB was measured by Minolta Colorimeter CR-300 immediately after application, 4 measuring points on each card

[0095] - Calculate and compare average L values

[0096] The results are listed in Table 1:

[0097]

[0098] As can be taken from Table 1, the combination of the invention leads to a synergistic reduction in the L value, ie a synergistic reduction in saponification.

Claims

1. A sunscreen composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT), diethylhexyl sebacate and one or more alkanediols, provided that the composition does not contain ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

2. The sunscreen composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is selected from the range of 0.1 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt% to 5 wt%, most preferably from 1 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

3. The sunscreen composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of diethylhexyl sebacate is at least 1 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.

4. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of diethylhexyl sebacate is less than or equal to 25 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

5. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the ratio of the total amount of diethylhexyl sebacate to the total amount of BEMT is selected from the range of 1:1 to 25:

1.

6. A sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more alkanediols are selected from the group consisting of 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol and 1,2-butylene glycol, preferably from 1,3-propanediol and butylene glycol, most preferably butylene glycol is used as the only alkanediol.

7. A sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of alkanediols is selected from the range of 1 wt.-% to 10 wt.-%, preferably from 1.5 wt.-% to 7.5 wt.-%, most preferably from 2 wt.-% to 6 wt.-%, for example in the range of 2 wt.-% to 5 wt.-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. A sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is an O / W emulsion comprising an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase in the presence of an O / W emulsifier, preferably in the presence of a cetyl phosphate emulsifier, most preferably in the presence of potassium cetyl phosphate.

9. A sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.

10. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of butyl dibenzoylmethane and / or diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is selected from the range of 1 wt % to 10 wt %, preferably from 1.5 wt % to 7.5 wt %, preferably from 2 wt % to 6 wt %, more preferably from 2 wt % to 5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. A sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, C 12 -C 15 Alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-C 12-13 Alkyl tartaric acid ester, hydrogenated castor oil dimer, triheptanoin, C 12-13 Alkyl lactate, C 16-17 One or more of alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylate, octyldodecanol, ethylhexyl coconut oil, dibutyl adipate, preferably dicaprylyl carbonate, phenylethyl benzoate, C 12 -C 15 Alkyl benzoate, caprylyl carbonate, capric / capric triglyceride, most preferably dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate and C 12 -C 15 Alkyl benzoate.

12. A sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more preservatives / preservative synergists selected from the group consisting of ethanol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, propanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, preferably phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin are used as the only preservatives / preservative synergists.

13. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose, cellulose gum, cross-linked acrylate / acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 One or more of alkyl ester polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, preferably xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

14. The sunscreen composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more of behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate, preferably behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, most preferably stearyl alcohol.

15. A method of reducing the saponification effect of a sunscreen composition comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, the method comprising the steps of replacing the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate contained in the sunscreen composition with diethylhexyl sebacate and optionally testing the effect.