Mild and stable A alcohol composition, A alcohol cosmetic and preparation method thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly discloses a mild and stable A alcohol composition, an A alcohol cosmetic and a preparation method of the A alcohol composition and the A alcohol cosmetic. The mild and stable A alcohol composition is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 to 0.5 part of A alcohol; 0.7 to 2.7 parts of a coating component; 0.3 to 0.9 part of a soothing component; the coating component is prepared from glycerol distearate, polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and a composition of polyglycerol-6 stearate; the soothing component is prepared from hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, a citrus fruit extract and bisabolol. According to the mild and stable A alcohol composition, the anti-aging, repairing and other effects of the A alcohol are guaranteed, and the irritation problem of the A alcohol is solved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and more specifically, to a mild and stable retinol composition, a retinol cosmetic and a preparation method thereof. Background Art

[0002] Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, also known as retinol. Retinol is often used in cosmetics because it can accelerate skin metabolism, improve skin dullness, and resist skin photoaging. However, excessive concentrations of retinol can cause inflammation, damage the skin barrier, and even accelerate aging. Long-term use may accelerate the shedding of skin keratin. If the stratum corneum of the skin is thin, it will further damage the skin barrier, causing symptoms such as redness, dryness, and peeling.

[0003] In order to solve the above problems, the products on the market mainly adopt two methods: one is to use low doses of Retinol in combination with other raw materials to achieve the effect, and the other is to modify Retinol to reduce its oxidation rate when exposed to the air so that it can be converted into the final product in the body.

[0004] However, the efficacy of low-content Retinol combined with other raw materials is still not as good as that of high-concentration Retinol. The conversion process of modified Retinol in the body is slow and cannot achieve the effect of Retinol alone. Summary of the invention

[0005] In order to improve the above problems, the present application provides a mild and stable retinol composition, a retinol cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.

[0006] In the first aspect, the present application provides a mild and stable A-alcohol composition, which adopts the following technical solution: A mild and stable A alcohol composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: Aluminum alcohol 0.1-0.5 parts; Coating component 0.7-2.7 parts; 0.3-0.9 parts of soothing component; The coating component includes glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-6 stearate composition; The soothing ingredients include hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, citrus fruit extract and bisabolol.

[0007] By adopting the above technical solution: the combination of glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentamethylenetetradecanoate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate, the emulsion has a relatively complete liquid crystal structure, which can well protect the oil-soluble active substance A alcohol in the droplets, while also reducing direct contact with the skin, achieving the effect of sustained release and reduced irritation. Hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid is further compounded to inhibit vasodilation caused by prostaglandins released by mast cells and skin itching caused by histamine release, citrus fruit extract is compounded to inhibit the activation or expression of TRPV-1 in keratinocytes and nerve cells, and bisabolol is compounded to inhibit the expression of 5-lipoxygenase, IL-1a, IL-5a, and TNF-a, and the three together have a soothing effect.

[0008] Optionally, the coating component includes the following components by weight: Glyceryl distearate 0.3-0.7 parts; Polyglycerol-10 pentastearate 0.1-0.5 parts; Behenyl alcohol 0.1-0.5 parts; Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.1-0.5 parts; Polyglyceryl-6 stearate composition 0.1-0.5 parts.

[0009] By adopting the above technical solution: when the usage of the above five is within the above range, the coating component protects the A alcohol well in the droplets, and the prepared composition has low irritation.

[0010] Optionally, the soothing component includes the following components in parts by weight: Hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid 0.1-0.2 parts; Citrus fruit extract 0.1-0.2 parts; Bisabolol 0.1-0.5 parts.

[0011] By adopting the above technical solution: when the dosage of the three is within the above range, the soothing effect of the soothing component is optimal, and the composition is mild and low in irritation.

[0012] In the second aspect, the present application provides a retinol cosmetic, which adopts the following technical solution: A retinol cosmetic is prepared by using the retinol composition as an active ingredient and adding cosmetic auxiliary materials.

[0013] Optionally, in the cosmetic, the amount of Retinol added is 0.1-0.5%.

[0014] By adopting the above technical solution: the effect of A alcohol is guaranteed.

[0015] Optionally, the cosmetic is an emulsion or a cream.

[0016] Optionally, the cosmetic excipients include: water, glycerin, carbomer, disodium EDTA, trehalose, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, squalane, cetearyl alcohol, tocopherol, dimethicone, arginine, phytosterols, and soybean glycerides.

[0017] In a third aspect, the present application provides a method for preparing a retinol cosmetic, using the following technical solution: A method for preparing a retinol cosmetic comprises the following steps: S1, mixing water, glycerol, carbomer, trehalose, p-hydroxyacetophenone, arginine, disodium EDTA, and 1,2-hexanediol, heating to 80° C.-85° C., and mixing to obtain an aqueous phase; S2, blending squalane, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, bisabolol, glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, tocopherol, phytosterol, and soybean glycerides, raising the temperature to 80° C.-85° C., and mixing to obtain an oil phase; S3, blending the water phase and the oil phase, homogenizing, cooling, and degassing, and then adding A alcohol, citrus (CITRUS RETICULATA) fruit extract, and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, and mixing to obtain.

[0018] By adopting the above technical solution, there are fewer steps, the process is simple and efficient, it is conducive to industrial large-scale preparation of cosmetics, and the prepared cosmetics have better anti-wrinkle effect.

[0019] In summary, this application has the following beneficial effects: 1. The present application compounds the coating component and the soothing component with retinol, and uses a combination of glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentamethylenetetradecanoate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate to reduce the direct contact between retinol and the skin, and further compounds the soothing component to achieve a strong soothing effect. The resulting composition has the efficacy of retinol and is mild and low in irritation; 2. The application specifies the dosage of the composition of oleyl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentamethylenetetradecanoate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate. The five ingredients work synergistically to protect the oil-soluble active substance A alcohol well in the droplets, and the prepared composition is mild and low-irritating. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0020] Figure 1 This is a polarizing microscope imaging photograph of the emulsion of Example 1 of the present application; Figure 2This is a polarizing microscope imaging photograph of the emulsion of Comparative Example 8 of the present application. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] The present application is further described in detail below with reference to the embodiments.

[0022] The sources of raw materials for each component are as follows. Components other than those specified below are commercially available: Glycerin was obtained from Wilmar Oil Technology (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.; Carbomer is Carbomer 940, sourced from Lubrizol, USA; Caprylic / capric triglyceride was obtained from BASF, Germany, model Myritol 318; Squalane is collected from Nikko, Japan, model C30; Cetearyl alcohol was obtained from Edenor Technology Co., Ltd. Polydimethylsiloxane was purchased from Dow Chemical, USA, model PMX-200; Arginine was L-arginine obtained from Shijiazhuang Jirong Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.; Cetearyl glucoside was obtained from BASF, Germany, model APG1618; Cetearyl olive oil ester was obtained from Wuhan Lanabai Pharmaceutical Chemical Co., Ltd., model number lnb-1892; Sorbitan olivate was purchased from Wuhan Kemik Biopharmaceutical Technology Co., Ltd., model olivm900; Glyceryl distearate was purchased from Shandong Suihua Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model SD03; Polyglycerol-10 pentastearate was obtained from Kunshan Shengan Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model D1UL; Behenyl alcohol was obtained from Zhangjiagang Renda Chemical Co., Ltd., product number RD802003; Glyceryl stearate citrate was obtained from Wuhan Lanabai Pharmaceutical Chemical Co., Ltd., model LNB-1302; Polyglycerol-6 stearate was obtained from Shandong Binzhou Jinsheng New Materials Technology Co., Ltd., model JS04; Phytosterols were obtained from Shandong Suihua Biotechnology Co., Ltd., model 5521255; Soybean glycerides, soybean monoglyceride, were obtained from Zhengzhou Xinghe Chemical Products Co., Ltd.; Retinol was obtained from DSM, model A-500; Citrus reticulata fruit extract was obtained from Baoji Liupanyun Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with a particle size of 100 mesh and a purity of 98%; Bisabolol, α-bisabolol, from BASF, Germany.

[0023] Preparation Examples 1-3, Comparative Preparation Examples 1-6 A mild and stable retinol composition comprises retinol, a coating component (glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentamethylenetetradecanoate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-6 stearate), and a soothing component (citrus (citrus reticulata) fruit extract, hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid and bisabolol), wherein the components and their corresponding weights are shown in Table 1, and the composition is prepared by the following steps: Heat glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentamethylenetetradecanoate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-6 stearate to 80°C and stir for 30 minutes, then cool to 40°C and add A alcohol, citrus (CITRUSRETICULATA) fruit extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid and bisabolol, and stir for 15 minutes to obtain the product.

[0024] Table 1 Components and their weights (kg) in Preparation Examples 1-3 and Comparative Preparation Examples 1-6 Comparative Preparation Example 7 A A alcohol composition, which differs from Preparation Example 2 in that an equal amount of cetearyl glucoside is used instead of the coating component.

[0025] Comparative Preparation Example 8 A Retinol composition, which differs from Preparation Example 2 in that a mixture of equal amounts of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate is used instead of the coating component, and the cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate are composed in a weight ratio of 10:7.

[0026] Comparative Preparation Example 9 A A alcohol composition, which differs from Preparation Example 2 in that an equal amount of hydrogenated lecithin is used instead of the coating component.

[0027] Comparative Preparation Example 10 A Retinol composition, which is different from Preparation Example 2 in that no soothing component is added.

[0028] Performance testing of the composition The A alcohol compositions of the preparation examples and comparative preparation examples were mixed with 70 kg of water and stirred for 30 minutes to obtain samples, and the obtained samples were subjected to the following performance tests.

[0029] 1. Stability test. The test results are recorded in the following table.

[0030] Test method: Take 10mL of each sample and put it into a hot and cold cycle machine, a constant temperature refrigerator, a constant temperature box, and a standard light source box for hot and cold cycle, cold resistance, heat resistance, and light exposure experiments. After the experiment, visually observe the appearance changes, conduct viscosity tests, test the active ingredient (A-alcohol) retention rate, and observe the microstructure. The test conditions are as follows: Hot and cold cycle: set the temperature to -15℃ and 50℃, cycle hot and cold for 3 days, and observe 3 cycles.

[0031] Cold resistance experiment: The cold resistance temperature was set at -15℃ and the experiment lasted for 3 months.

[0032] Heat resistance test: The set heat resistance temperature is 50℃ and the test lasts for 3 months.

[0033] Lighting experiment: A standard light source was used in a light box to simulate lighting for 3 months.

[0034] Viscosity test results: In the above experiments, the compositions of Preparation Examples 1-3 and Comparative Preparation Examples 2 and 10 had no changes in appearance and little changes in viscosity. Comparative Preparation Examples 1 and 3-9 all had color changes in some experiments and little changes in viscosity.

[0035] Table 2 Active ingredient retention rate and microstructure test results of the composition 2. Irritation test: Select volunteers, and each volunteer is tested using a sample from a preparation example or a comparative preparation example. Test method: A 1cm*1cm test area is marked on the cheek of the volunteer, and the a* value in the area is detected using the SkinColorCatch probe (the a* value reflects the redness of the skin surface). The average value is taken after three measurements and recorded as the initial value. Use a pipette to draw 25μL of the sample, and use a latex fingertip to evenly apply the sample to the test area until it is absorbed, and start timing; detect the a* value after 30 minutes, and calculate according to Δa* value = a* value (30min) - a* value (initial). The larger the Δa* value, the greater the irritation.

[0036] Table 3 Composition irritation test results project Preparation Example 1 Preparation Example 2 Preparation Example 3 \ \ Δa* value 1.5 1.2 1.3 \ \ project Comparative Preparation Example 1 Comparative Preparation Example 2 Comparative Preparation Example 3 Comparative Preparation Example 4 Comparative Preparation Example 5 Δa* value 2.9 1.1 3.0 3.4 3.2 project Comparative Preparation Example 6 Comparative Preparation Example 7 Comparative Preparation Example 8 Comparative Preparation Example 9 Comparative Preparation Example 10 Δa* value 3.5 2.7 1.8 2.5 3.7 According to the test results of the stability and irritation of the composition, the A alcohol in Preparation Examples 1-3 contains a coating component consisting of glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentamethylenetetradecanoate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-6 stearate, so that the prepared emulsion has a complete liquid crystal structure, and the retention rate is measured to be more than 92.9%, and the Δa* value is only 1.5.

[0037] The difference from Preparation Example 2 is that the amount of coating component used in Preparation Example 1 is reduced, the coating components of Comparative Preparation Examples 3-6 lack one or more of the above five, and other emulsifiers are used instead of the coating components in Comparative Examples 7-9. The prepared emulsions do not have liquid crystal structures or the active substance retention rate is reduced, and the Δa* values ​​are all above 1.8. This shows that only when the coating component contains the above five at the same time can the oil-soluble A alcohol be protected in the droplets to reduce irritation, and if other emulsifiers are used instead of the coating component, the above effect cannot be achieved.

[0038] The difference between Preparation Example 2 and Preparation Example 3 is that the amount of coating component is increased, but the test results are similar. Considering the cost, the amount of coating component should be controlled within the range of Preparation Examples 1-3.

[0039] The difference between Preparation Example 10 and Preparation Example 2 is that no soothing component is added. Although the active ingredient retention rate is improved, the irritation is enhanced.

[0040] Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-2 A retinol cosmetic, which is an emulsion, the components and their corresponding weights are shown in Table 4, and is prepared by the following steps: S1. Mix water, glycerol, carbomer, trehalose, p-hydroxyacetophenone, arginine, disodium EDTA, and 1,2-hexanediol, raise the temperature to 80° C., and stir at a speed of 30 Hz for 1 hour to obtain an aqueous phase; S2, blending squalane, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, bisabolol, glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, tocopherol, phytosterols, and soybean glycerides, raising the temperature to 80° C., and stirring and mixing at a rotation speed of 30 Hz for 0.5 h to obtain an oil phase; S3. Stir the water phase and the oil phase at a speed of 30 Hz for 5 minutes, homogenize at a speed of 50 Hz for 5 minutes, cool naturally for 3 hours, and vacuum degas at 0.1 MPa. When the temperature drops to 45°C, add A alcohol, citrus (CITRUS RETICULATA) fruit extract, and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, and stir and mix at a speed of 30 Hz for 15 minutes.

[0041] See the attached photo of the emulsion polarizing microscope imaging of Example 1. Figure 1 , showing a Maltese cross structure, indicating the formation of liquid crystals.

[0042] Table 4 Components and their weights in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 (kg) Comparative Examples 3-6 A Retinol cosmetic, which is different from Example 2 in that the amounts of glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate and water are different, as shown in the following table.

[0043] The microscopic detection diagram of the emulsion of Example 1 is shown in the attached Figure 1 . Table 5 Components and their weights in Comparative Examples 3-6 (kg) Components Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Comparative Example 6 Glyceryl Distearate 0 0.6 0.6 1.7 Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate 0.45 0 0.4 0 Behenyl alcohol 0.45 0.3 0.3 0 Glyceryl Stearate Citrate 0.45 0.4 0 0 Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate 0.35 0.4 0.4 0 Comparative Examples 7-9 A retinol cosmetic, which differs from Example 2 in that equal amounts of the following substances are used instead of glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate.

[0044] Comparative Example 7: Using an equal amount of cetearyl glucoside to replace glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate.

[0045] Comparative Example 8: A mixture of equal amounts of cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate in a weight ratio of 10:7 was used to replace glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate.

[0046] The emulsion polarizing microscope imaging photos of Comparative Example 8 are attached. Figure 2 , no Maltese cross structure is presented, indicating that there is no liquid crystal structure.

[0047] Comparative Example 9: An equal amount of hydrogenated lecithin was used to replace glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, and polyglyceryl-6 stearate.

[0048] Comparative Example 10 A retinol cosmetic, which is different from Example 2 in that citrus reticulata fruit extract, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid and bisabolol are not added.

[0049] Emulsion performance testing The following performance tests were performed on the emulsions prepared in the examples and comparative examples, and the test results are recorded in Table 6.

[0050] Detection Methods Thirteen wrinkled subjects aged 35-40 with healthy skin were selected. Each subject cleaned his face, dried it, and sat in a laboratory at 21±1℃ and 50+10%RH for 30 minutes. Then, PRIMOS CR was used to collect images, and the test value was recorded as n(D0); Each subject used the emulsion prepared in Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-10 for 14 consecutive days and then sat in a laboratory at 21±1°C and 50+10%RH for 30 minutes. Image acquisition was performed again, and the test value was recorded as n(D14), calculated according to Δn=n(D0)-n(D14), and the larger Δn was, the better the anti-wrinkle effect was.

[0051] Table 6 Anti-wrinkle performance test results project Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 \ \ Δn 12 14 13 \ \ project Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Δn 4 14 10 9 9 project Comparative Example 6 Comparative Example 7 Comparative Example 8 Comparative Example 9 Comparative Example 10 Δn 7 7 8 8 6 Referring to the data in Table 6, it can be seen that the Retinol cosmetics of the present application have a certain anti-aging effect.

[0052] This specific embodiment is merely an explanation of the present application and is not a limitation of the present application. After reading this specification, those skilled in the art may make modifications to the present embodiment without any creative contribution as needed, but such modifications are protected by the patent law as long as they are within the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims

1. A mild and stable A-alcohol composition, characterized in that: The composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: Aluminum alcohol 0.1-0.5 parts; Coating component 0.7-2.7 parts; 0.3-0.9 parts of soothing component; The coating component includes glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate and polyglyceryl-6 stearate composition; The soothing ingredients include hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, citrus fruit extract and bisabolol.

2. A mild and stable A-alcohol composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The coating component includes the following components in parts by weight: Glyceryl distearate 0.3-0.7 parts; Polyglycerol-10 pentastearate 0.1-0.5 parts; Behenyl alcohol 0.1-0.5 parts; Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.1-0.5 parts; Polyglyceryl-6 stearate composition 0.1-0.5 parts.

3. A mild and stable A-alcohol composition according to claim 1, characterized in that: The soothing component includes the following components in parts by weight: Hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid 0.1-0.2 parts; Citrus fruit extract 0.1-0.2 parts; Bisabolol 0.1-0.5 parts.

4. A retinol cosmetic, characterized in that: The cosmetic is prepared by using the retinol composition described in any one of claims 1 to 5 as an active ingredient and adding cosmetic excipients.

5. A retinol cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that: In the cosmetic, the added amount of Retinol is 0.1-0.5%.

6. A retinol cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that: The cosmetic is a kind of emulsion or cream.

7. A retinol cosmetic according to claim 4, characterized in that: The cosmetic excipients include: water, glycerin, carbomer, disodium EDTA, trehalose, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, squalane, cetearyl alcohol, tocopherol, polydimethylsiloxane, arginine, phytosterols, and soybean glycerides.

8. A method for preparing a retinol cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that: The following steps are involved: S1, mixing water, glycerol, carbomer, trehalose, p-hydroxyacetophenone, arginine, disodium EDTA, and 1,2-hexanediol, heating to 80° C.-85° C., and mixing to obtain an aqueous phase; S2, blending squalane, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, bisabolol, glyceryl distearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, tocopherol, phytosterol, and soybean glycerides, raising the temperature to 80° C.-85° C., and mixing to obtain an oil phase; S3. Blend, homogenize, cool and degas the water phase and the oil phase, then add A alcohol, citrus (CITRUS RETICULATA) fruit extract and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, and mix to obtain.

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