Timepiece component and method of manufacturing timepiece component

Abstract

The timepiece component (10; 10 *), in particular a bracelet part, characterized in that the timepiece part (10; 10 *) comprises a substrate (1; 1 *), said substrate comprising a relief (111; 111 *) and at least part of the material deposit (4; 41 *, 42 *), and wherein the relief (111; 111 *) is entirely or partially covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2 *).

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a timepiece or jewelry component. The invention also relates to a timepiece component, in particular a bracelet (wristband) portion, and more particularly to a bracelet portion made of a polymer (for example an elastomer) obtained by this method. Background Art

[0002] In the horological field, it is common practice to form bracelet parts from polymer materials, in particular elastomers. It is desirable to be able to form the surface of such bracelet parts with a selected, particularly attractive appearance.

[0003] To achieve this result, it is known to manufacture the bracelet parts using a metal mould made of steel, the geometry of which produces a predetermined texture directly on the bracelet part. A first disadvantage of this method is the lack of versatility, since changing the appearance of the bracelet requires changing the mould. This solution is therefore not suitable for small-scale production. It also has a second disadvantage, namely that it does not allow just any texture to be obtained or produces textures with insufficient accuracy and / or unsatisfactory visibility. Finally, the formation of a textured surface on the mould is generally complex and difficult to achieve, and such a surface cannot be repaired in the event of damage, which is a third disadvantage of this solution.

[0004] Another complementary method is to modify the surface appearance of the bracelet part after it has been removed from the mold by one or more additional finishing steps (for example, by a calendering step). This method also complicates the method by adding one or more additional steps. In addition, it does not allow the formation of all types of textures.

[0005] The object of the present invention is therefore to improve the known methods for manufacturing a timepiece or jewellery component and in particular to achieve all or some of the following aims. Summary of the invention

[0006] A first object of the invention is to enable the manufacture of a timepiece or jewelry component having a defined technical functionality and / or an attractive aesthetic appearance, in particular a timepiece or jewelry component having an at least partially protected structured surface.

[0007] A second object of the invention is to enable the manufacture of a timepiece or jewellery component comprising a structured surface of complex shape.

[0008] A third object of the invention is to be able to manufacture a timepiece or jewellery component comprising a structured surface suitable for small-scale production, and in particular to be able to easily vary the pattern of the structured surface of the timepiece component to be manufactured.

[0009] To this end, the invention is based on a method for producing a timepiece component, wherein the method comprises the following steps:

[0010] - forming a relief on the polymer substrate of the timepiece component;

[0011] - depositing a material on at least a portion of the substrate;

[0012] - Integrally bonding a transparent or translucent protective layer to all or part of the relief and / or to all or part of the material deposit.

[0013] The invention also relates to a timepiece component, in particular a bracelet part, made of polymer material or predominantly of polymer material, wherein the timepiece component comprises a substrate made of polymer material, the substrate comprising a relief and at least a partial material deposit, and wherein all or part of the relief is covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer.

[0014] The invention is more particularly defined by the claims. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0015] These objects, features and advantages of the present invention will be described in detail in the following description of specific non-limiting embodiments and numbered in the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0016] Figure 1a to Figure 1c The steps of a first phase of manufacturing a structured insert according to a first variant of a first embodiment of the invention are depicted.

[0017] Figure 2a to Figure 2d A cross-sectional view of a cavity formed in a surface of a mold member according to an embodiment of the first stage of the present invention is shown.

[0018] Figure 3 Schematically depicts a first stage of manufacturing a structured insert according to a first variant of a first embodiment of the invention according to Figure 1b steps.

[0019] Figure 4 Schematically depicts a first stage of manufacturing a structured insert according to a first variant of a first embodiment of the invention according to Figure 1c steps.

[0020] Figure 5 A mould element used by a method according to a first variant of a first embodiment of the invention is depicted.

[0021] Figure 6 Shows Figure 5 Magnified view of the structured surface of the mold element.

[0022] Figures 7 to 9 The steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to a first embodiment of the invention are schematically depicted.

[0023] Fig.10 , Fig.11 and Fig.12 Cross-sectional views of timepiece components according to different variants of a first embodiment of the invention are depicted.

[0024] Fig.13 The first embodiment of the present invention is shown. Fig.10 A top view of the watch components.

[0025] Fig.14 and Fig.15 There are schematically depicted the steps of a method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to an example of a second variant of the first embodiment of the invention.

[0026] Fig.16 A cross-sectional view of a timepiece component according to a second embodiment of the invention is schematically depicted.

[0027] Fig.17 A cross-sectional view of a timepiece component according to a second embodiment variant of the invention is schematically depicted.

[0028] Fig.18 The steps of the method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to the invention are schematically depicted. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] An embodiment of the invention will now be described in the context of the manufacture of a bracelet portion.Of course, the invention can be used to manufacture another timepiece or jewelry component, such as a bezel or dial.

[0030] According to a first variant of the first embodiment of the invention, the manufacturing method first comprises a first stage of manufacturing a structured insert intended to be inserted into a mould for manufacturing a timepiece or jewellery component in order to form a structured surface of the timepiece component, wherein at least a portion of the substrate is manufactured in such a mould.

[0031] According to this first variant, the method for manufacturing a timepiece component thus comprises a first stage of manufacturing a structured insert for a mould for manufacturing a timepiece component, as schematically depicted in FIG. 1 .

[0032] The first stage consists in a first step of obtaining an E01 mould element 99 comprising a structured surface 990 with a pattern to be replicated. The pattern of the structured surface of this mould element is called the "master pattern": this is an existing pattern which is identically reproduced with very high precision on the surface of a bracelet part, for example. Figure 5 and Figure 6 Described by way of example.

[0033] A structured surface refers to a surface with raised and / or recessed reliefs, that is to say protruding or recessed relative to the surface. These reliefs form the main pattern of the structured surface. In addition, the structured surface can be flat or uneven, for example curved. As will become clear from the description below, the method according to the present invention advantageously enables the replication of various main patterns, including complex patterns and / or patterns involving very small sizes, particularly micrometer-level or even nanometer-level. Of course, the present invention does not relate to the main pattern itself, which can be any main pattern.

[0034] For example, the main pattern can be a natural pattern, such as a pattern found on the surface of animal skin, leather, crocodile skin, bark, leaves, microcrystals (especially silicon carbide crystals or ruthenium crystals), etc. Alternatively, the main pattern can be non-natural, artificial, and manufactured on a natural or non-natural substrate by any known technology such as traditional processing, laser etching, etc. For example, the main pattern can be formed by abrasive textured metal, especially by traditional etching, by laser or by electrochemistry, or by presenting a wafer formed by electroforming decoration obtained by depositing metal in a cavity of a photopolymerized photosensitive resin, or by the surface of a silicon wafer, or by weaving fibers, etc. to form a brushed sun pattern (sunbrushed) finish or any other form of satin finish. More commonly, in the case where the main pattern is non-natural or artificial, it can be obtained by any known technology. The main pattern can be produced on a substrate, and the main pattern and the substrate form a mold element. Alternatively, the main pattern can be obtained when the mold element is manufactured. For example, the mold element and / or the main pattern can be obtained by additive manufacturing or 3D printing. This method of manufacturing the mould elements and / or the master pattern has the advantage of being fast and having great versatility in creating varied and complex decorations.

[0035] As mentioned above, the primary pattern can be complex. For example, it can include a hollow portion forming a cavity of complex shape, in particular having an opening narrower than its width, or more generally including a lower portion parallel to the structured surface, which has a larger area than another parallel portion superimposed on it, i.e. having a shape such that it presents a bottleneck when demolding the cavity.

[0036] Figure 2a to Figure 2dAn example of a complex cavity seen in cross section in a plane perpendicular to the structured surface 990 of the mold element is shown, the structured surface 990 thus comprising at least one such complex cavity 992, or a plurality of identical or different complex cavities. Such a complex cavity 992 comprises an opening 993 opening onto the structured surface 990 and then extending into the depth of the mold element. As shown in these figures, the complex cavity 992 comprises at least one portion such that the maximum width L of the portion in a plane parallel to the structured surface 990 is greater than the width l of the opening 993. More generally, the complex cavity may comprise a first portion parallel to the structured surface 990 of the mold element, the first portion having a larger area than a second superimposed parallel portion located above the first parallel portion (i.e. closer to the opening 993). The particularity of these cavity shapes is that they introduce complexity in the demoulding step of the injection molding method, which includes injection molding of material in such a cavity, because the cavity comprises a narrow portion that forms a bottleneck when the solidified injected material is removed.

[0037] Complexity may also result from a very large number of raised and / or recessed reliefs, which may be juxtaposed or intersecting.

[0038] Finally, complexity may come from the resolution of the primary pattern, which may involve very small dimensions. As an example, the structured surface 990 of the mold element may include at least one relief having a height, measured in a direction perpendicular to the structured surface 990, of 1 nm-2 mm, or 1 nm-500 μm, or 1 nm-10 μm, or 1 nm-10 nm. Thus, the structured surface 990 of the mold element may include at least one millimeter-scale relief, or at least one micrometer-scale relief, or at least one nanometer-scale relief, or a combination of millimeter-scale reliefs and / or micrometer-scale reliefs and / or nanometer-scale reliefs.

[0039] Since the invention allows the reproduction of complex patterns, it has the advantage of being compatible with the reproduction of very diverse textures. In addition to the examples shown, it is naturally compatible with any other texture and can also be implemented to reproduce simple textures.

[0040] The first stage of the method then comprises a second step of covering the structured surface of the E02 mold element 99 with a molding resin, such as Figure 1b and Figure 3 As shown, the pattern of said master pattern of the mould element can be reproduced in negative form, after curing of the moulding resin, in order to obtain the structured insert 24 .

[0041] Advantageously, the molding resin has a pressure of 0.5-70000 Pa.s at ambient temperature and pressure before curing. -1 , or 0.5-30000Pa.s -1, or 0.5-1000Pa.s -1 The viscosity of the molding resin is preferably 0.1%. This facilitates the penetration of the molding resin into the cavities (including complex cavities) of the structured surface of the mold element 99. Therefore, the molding resin penetrates into the smallest corners of the structured surface of the mold element 99, replicating the shape of the structured surface with very high accuracy. When the molding resin is cured, all details of the surface to which the molding resin has been applied are very accurately replicated. The accuracy of the replication can be micron-level, or nanometer-level.

[0042] For example, the molding resin comprises polyurethane, latex, acrylic resin, fluoroelastomer such as FKM, PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane), epoxy resin or two-component silicone resin, especially with two addition-cured components, especially the vinyl-polydimethylsiloxane family, or especially comprising vinyl, silicic acid and aggregated material. The molding resin may also contain one or more additives selected from adjuvants, aggregated materials and colorants.

[0043] Alternatively, a more viscous resin may be used, or a pasty or solid material, such as untreated fluororubber (FKM). In this case, it will be advantageous to apply a significant pressure to the resin to allow it to penetrate all the reliefs of the mold element, in particular the cavities. A compromise will be sought to define the pressure applied so as to achieve an accurate reproduction of the master pattern without damaging the mold element.

[0044] After curing, the molding resin forms the structured insert 24. Preferably, the structured insert 24 is flexible. In particular, its flexibility is suitable for demolding it from the mold element 99, especially when the mold element includes a pattern with complex cavities. Advantageously, the molding resin has little or no shrinkage so as to faithfully replicate and maintain the features of the pattern to be replicated. For example, the shrinkage is less than or equal to 2‰, or even less than or equal to 1‰. The molding resin is selected so that once cured, a flexibility compatible with the extraction stress is achieved, calculated using the following formula:

[0045]

[0046] The higher the extraction stress, the more flexible and resilient the molding resin must be so that the resulting structural insert can be removed without damage while preserving the entire texture to be replicated. In other words, the molding resin is selected so as to form a structural insert 24 that can be separated from the mold element without damaging the mold element or the structural insert.

[0047] Preferably, the curing of the molding resin (at the end of which the impression of the master pattern is considered to have been made) corresponds to its polymerization. It consists of two stages: curing of the resin, after which it is dry to the touch, and then curing of the resin, after which the final mechanical properties of the resin are obtained.

[0048] The polymerization kinetics of the molding resin used to obtain the impression are generally very fast. In particular, the polymerization time at ambient temperature can be 1-30 minutes, preferably 1-15 minutes. For example, in the specific case of using a two-component silicone resin, the setting time at ambient temperature (20° C.) is 15-90 seconds. The curing time is 1-10 minutes. Therefore, the choice of such a silicone resin as molding resin is particularly advantageous: its curing time is short and the silicone resin can be used with very simple facilities.

[0049] The method then comprises a third step consisting in separating E03 the structured insert 24 from the mold element 99, as Figure 1c and Figure 4 As shown, the structured insert 24 includes a structured surface 240 that replicates a primary pattern in negative form.

[0050] As described above, the cured molding resin remains flexible, which allows it to be easily demolded from mold element 99 without damaging the pattern of structured surface 240. Thus, structured insert 24 includes structured surface 240 that corresponds to an identical replication in negative form of structured surface 990 of mold element 99.

[0051] The mold element is preferably pre-cleaned before the molding resin is applied so as to provide a receiving surface, including the structured surface to be replicated, which is completely clean when the molding resin is applied. Optionally, this surface may also be coated with a release agent. This facilitates separation of the structured insert 24 from the mold element 99, the structured insert easily falling off without adhering to the mold element. Thus, the molding resin does not leave residues on the surface of the mold element, and the intact structured surface is maintained without being damaged by any torn-off fragments, completely replicating the structured surface of the mold element.

[0052] Advantageously, the structured insert is resistant to compression while still being fairly flexible, as reflected in a hardness of 20-90 Shore A, or 20-40 Shore A, or 50-70 Shore A, or 80-90 Shore A. As mentioned above, this resistance combined with the flexibility of the insert is suitable for the mould element used.

[0053] Furthermore, the obtained structured insert 24 is flexible enough to follow the shape of the mold surface on which it is to be placed (which may not be flat), as will be described in detail below. To this end, the apparent modulus of the structured insert 240 at 100% deformation is advantageously less than 300 MPa, or less than 50 MPa, or less than 10 MPa. On the other hand, the unnotched tear strength of the structured insert 24 is preferably greater than or equal to 5, or greater than 10, according to standard ISO 34-1B (a).

[0054] According to an advantageous embodiment, directly after this step of demoulding the molding resin, the structured insert 24 is obtained. Optionally, the method comprises an additional step of cutting the molding resin separated from the mold element, so as to form the structured insert in its final form. Naturally, according to an advantageous embodiment, the structured insert 24 can be manufactured at a first stage according to a rest shape (corresponding to the shape of the mold element) corresponding to the shape of the shell of the mold, so that it will adapt perfectly to this shell without the need (or almost without the need) to deform it.

[0055] Furthermore, the method may comprise an optional additional step of depositing a release agent coating on the structured insert 24, in particular by coating, by chemical vapor deposition (CVD), by physical vapor deposition (PVD), by atomic layer deposition (ALD), by sol-gel deposition, by SAM (self-assembled monolayer) deposition or by depositing a fluorinated coating on the structured insert, for example made of a material chosen from polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), fluorinated ethylene propylene (FEP) or perfluoroalkoxy (PFA).

[0056] According to a first alternative of the first stage described above, the structured insert 24 can be manufactured differently in a simplified manner, for example independently of any mold element. The advantage of the method using mold elements is that it allows a very accurate and realistic production, but the invention is naturally not limited to this method. Thus, the structured insert 24 can include any pattern, for example manufactured by electroforming, by electrocorrosion or by additive manufacturing or 3D printing.

[0057] According to a second alternative, the structured pattern can be manufactured directly on the semi-cavity block of the manufacturing mold to be described below, in which case the method no longer comprises a first stage of manufacturing the insert, but a first stage of manufacturing the structured surface 240 directly on the surface of the manufacturing mold.

[0058] The method for manufacturing a timepiece component then comprises a second stage of manufacturing the timepiece component, such as Figures 7 to 9 As shown, it uses a structured insert 24 produced by the first stage described above, or at least one structured surface 240 having the function of forming a relief on the surface of the timepiece component, as will be described in detail below.

[0059] According to this first variant of the first embodiment of the invention, the second phase of manufacturing the timepiece component comprises the following steps.

[0060] One step comprises depositing the material 4 on the structured surface 240 of the structured insert 24 or on the structured surface 240 of the semi-cavity block 22 of the manufacturing mold 20, by depositing the material 4 in positive form or in relief of the structured surface 240, such as Figure 7 and Figure 8 shown.

[0061] According to this embodiment, the material 4 comprises a pigment characterized by a specific color, in particular a color different, even significantly different, from the color of the substrate 1 that will form the watch component, as will be described in detail below. In addition to or instead of coloring, the material 4 may also produce any visual or functional effect, such as a metallic, pearl or glitter effect. The material 4 may also be phosphorescent or fluorescent. Furthermore, the material 4 is not necessarily visible to the naked eye.

[0062] The material 4 may be in the form of a coating, paint, varnish or composite material, in particular a luminescent composite material, capable of withstanding the temperatures used in the subsequent injection molding and / or compression molding steps. The material 4 may be applied, for example, by a roller on the protruding parts of the structured surface 240, or by any other technique known to those skilled in the art, such as printing, screen printing or decals.

[0063] In the embodiment using a structured insert 24, the method implementation comprises the following steps: placing the structured insert 24, whose structured surface 240 comprises a deposit of material 4, in the cavity 21 of the mold 20, on the blank 1a for manufacturing a base plate 1 of a timepiece component, in particular on a first half-cavity block 22 delimiting the cavity 21 cooperating with a second half-cavity block 23, as Figure 8 As shown. In this step of placing the structured insert 24 in the mould 20 of the timepiece component, said mould 20 is advantageously made of metal, for example steel. Advantageously, this is achieved by simply inserting it into a housing provided for this purpose in the mould 20, which has a sufficiently tight fit to keep the structured insert 24 in place. The latter is thus advantageously kept in place in the mould without the need for adhesives or attachments. This housing in the mould has a shape and thickness corresponding to that of the structured insert.

[0064] The structural insert 24 can have any shape and occupy all or part of the surface of the mold 20, in particular a semi-cavity block. In addition, the structural insert 24 has sufficient flexibility to completely follow the shape of the shell intended to receive it, without leaving any gaps. Due to its material, the structural insert 24 also does not adhere to the mold. Therefore, the structural insert 24 can be easily removed without the need to add a release agent to the surface of the mold.

[0065] The method then comprises a step of filling the cavity 21 of the mould with the material of the component to form a blank 1a of the base plate 1 of the timepiece component, such as Fig. 9As shown. This can be an injection molding or compression molding step. In the former case, the material is in the form of a paste or fluid raw material, which is injected into the cavity 21 of the mold 20 at a predetermined pressure (usually between 80 bar-150 bar, or 80 bar-90 bar) when the mold is closed and at a given temperature (usually 100°C-200°C). In the latter case, the original blank or preform is positioned on the mold part before closing the mold, and then compressed at a given temperature (usually 100°C-200°C). This filling of the mold includes filling the negative pattern of the structured surface 240. The material of the part is then partially cooled and solidified.

[0066] At the end of this step, the blank 1a comprises a pattern 111a which is an identical replica of the pattern of the structured surface 240. Furthermore, the deposition of the material 4 on the positive relief or raised relief of the structured surface 240 has been transferred into the cavities 3a of the pattern 111a of the blank 1a of the substrate 1, characterized by the cavities 3 of the pattern 111 of the substrate 1. This phenomenon can be explained in particular by the fact that the material 4 adheres to the blank 1a when the materials constituting the part are crosslinked, which phenomenon can be further promoted if the material 4 does not adhere very firmly to the insert 24.

[0067] The parameters of this step (duration, pressure, temperature, etc.) are particularly chosen so as to obtain a blank 1a in which the material is not completely crosslinked and whose form does not yet completely correspond to that of substrate 1 so as to allow the implementation of the integral joining step described below. Thus, pattern 111a may not completely correspond to pattern 111 that will be visible on finished timepiece component 10, as Fig.10 , Fig.11 and Fig.12 shown.

[0068] Advantageously, the material of the component is a polymer, particularly an elastomeric material or an elastomeric-based material, i.e., an elastomer comprising at least 50% by weight. In particular, the elastomeric material can be a fluorine-containing elastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or a synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or a vinyl methyl silicone (VMQ) or a fluorosilicone (FVMQ). Alternatively, the material of the component is a polymer, a thermoplastic or a thermosetting plastic. This material particularly has the advantage of being convenient to separate the insert from the component without damaging the component. The selection of the component material is suitable for the more or less complex specific shape of the watch component to be manufactured, and the most complex shape requires the use of a component material with more effective mechanical properties than the insert 24. In this case, in particular, it is certainly conceivable that the insert 24 is destroyed when the blank 1a is removed from the mold.

[0069] Thus, the timepiece component is advantageously flexible. Furthermore, it may have a non-planar shape at rest resulting from the shape of the manufacturing mould. This shape may be curved or arched, in particular concave or convex. Thus, the timepiece component may be curved or arched, in particular concave or convex. The timepiece component may be rigid at rest, that is to say, by virtue of the flexible material used, retaining a predetermined shape at rest, at ambient temperature or otherwise, in particular in the case of a bracelet, which shape may advantageously be changed by elastic deformation or shaping.

[0070] Note that the molding resin of the structured insert 24 is naturally chosen to be compatible with the conditions of filling the mold 20 with the material of the blank 1a. In particular, the structured insert 24 can withstand the vulcanization conditions of the elastomer forming the blank 1a or the watch component 10. To this end, it can withstand temperatures of 160°C or even up to 180°C, even up to 250°C, for at least 15 minutes, preferably for several hours. At these temperatures, the structured insert 24 can also withstand pressures of 80bar-150bar, or even 80bar-90bar, without deforming. In addition, the structured insert 24 can advantageously withstand, for example, several elastomer vulcanization cycles, each of which lasts 5-15 minutes. Similarly, the material 4 can withstand the vulcanization conditions of the elastomer forming the watch component 10.

[0071] Thus, the step of filling the mould 20 advantageously comprises casting, injection moulding or compression moulding of the material of the component and makes it possible to form a one-piece timepiece component comprising a structured surface.

[0072] The method then comprises a step of removing the blank 1 a of the timepiece component 10 from the mould 20 .

[0073] Advantageously, during this removal step, the structured insert 24, if applicable, remains integrally engaged with said blank 1a, since they are interconnected in the region of the structured surface and since the structured insert is not attached to the manufacturing mould. In this case, the structured insert 24 fulfils a secondary function of temporary protection of the structured surface of the blank of the timepiece component, in particular allowing a deburring or sandblasting sub-step to be carried out upon leaving the mould. The method then comprises a step of separating the blank of the timepiece component from the structured insert 24, if applicable.

[0074] Alternatively, the structured insert 24 may be separated from the blank 1a during the step of demoulding said blank from the mould 20. This structured insert 24 may be reused within the mould to manufacture a new blank and another identical timepiece component.

[0075] Therefore, the above-mentioned filling step simultaneously implements the following two steps of the manufacturing method according to the present invention:

[0076] - forming an E1 relief on the substrate of the watch component;

[0077] - Depositing E2 material on at least a portion of said relief.

[0078] Then, the method implements a step comprising integrally bonding E3 the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 to the blank 1a of the substrate 1 obtained by the previous step. For this purpose, a blank 2a of a transparent or translucent protective layer 2 is used. This blank 2a comprises a material that is not completely cross-linked and / or a material with uncertain dimensions. According to this embodiment, this integral bonding step E3 compresses the blanks 1a and 2a to each other at a predetermined pressure and temperature and for a predetermined duration so as to integrally bond the two blanks 1a, 2a to each other.

[0079] Depending on the flexibility of the blank 2a and the pressure and temperature conditions, the two blanks 1a and 2a can be partially or completely integrally joined. Therefore, the part 1 and the part 2 of the component 10 can be integrally joined only on the upper surface 110 of the substrate 1 and the lower surface 200 of the layer 2, such as Fig.10 They can also advantageously be integrally joined on all surfaces of the relief 111 and the lower surface 200 of the layer 2, as shown. Fig.11 and 12 As shown, in particular, the whole is joined in a manner following the relief 111 ( Fig.12 ).

[0080] Step E3 thus makes it possible to obtain a timepiece component 10 comprising a second transparent or translucent protective layer 2 , the lower surface 200 of which is in contact at least with the upper surface 110 of the substrate 1 .

[0081] Note that the method can advantageously be implemented using blanks 1a, 2a having a substrate 1 and a transparent or translucent protective layer 2 of large dimensions, which are then cut into the correct form after being integrally joined, for example to form one or more bracelet parts provided with a substrate 1 integrally joined to a second transparent or translucent protective layer 2 using a single blank 1a.

[0082] Advantageously, the respective materials of the first blank 1a and the second blank 2a (i.e. the materials of the substrate 1 and the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 of the watch component) are compatible with each other so that the two layers 1, 2 adhere to each other independently of any additional means (e.g. adhesive). In particular, these materials can be polymers, which are selected to have the same chemical properties in order to promote crosslinking between them. Preferably, the selected polymers belong to the same chemical family, in particular the family of fluoroelastomers. In other words, the materials of the first blank 1a and the second blank 2a or the materials of the substrate 1 and the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 comprise the same polymer matrix.

[0083] As mentioned above, the use of a structured insert is not mandatory in this first variant of the first embodiment of the invention, but nevertheless represents an advantageous embodiment.

[0084] The structured insert may be a one-off, or may be used to manufacture a small number of timepiece components, for example up to 50 timepiece components.

[0085] According to a second variant of the first embodiment, the deposition of material 4 and the possible production of the relief are carried out after a step of injection or compression molding in a mold of the blank of the timepiece component baseplate.

[0086] In a first example of implementation of this second variant, the method differs from the method according to the first variant in that the step of depositing the material 4 is carried out after structuring the component blank in the mold. In this case, the blank with the relief can be formed following exactly the same steps as previously described, without carrying out a step of depositing the material on the structured surface 240 of the structured insert 24 or directly on the surface of the mold 20.

[0087] In this first example, a blank of a timepiece component is thus formed in a mould comprising a structured surface replicated on the surface of the blank. This step makes it possible to carry out a first step of forming an E1 relief on the substrate of the timepiece component. Then, in this first example, after removing the blank from the manufacturing mould, a step of depositing E2 material on at least some of the relief is carried out.

[0088] The deposition E2 step of material can be carried out using the same materials and the same method as previously described, but applied directly to the relief of the blank, rather than to the structured surface of the insert or semi-cavity block of the mold, so as to be subsequently transferred to the insert when it is formed. The material can be selectively deposited on the protruding parts or recessed areas of the relief of the blank.

[0089] According to the second example of the implementation of the second variant embodiment, the method includes a simplified stage of the preparation of the substrate blank of the watch component. The blank does not include any relief or material deposit. It can be formed by calendering (when the blank is made of raw materials) or molding, and since it does not include a structured surface, the mold used in the possible molding step is simplified compared to the other variants and alternatives described. Therefore, it is not necessary to use a structured insert. In addition, since the surface of the mold does not have a structured surface, the surface of the mold is simplified. Alternatively, the blank of the substrate can be produced by any other method.

[0090] The method then comprises a first step of forming an E1 relief on at least a portion of the blank 1a of the watch component substrate. This first step of forming the E1 relief may be a step of structuring the upper surface 110a of the blank 1a, comprising forming the cavities 3a using a laser, in particular a femtosecond pulsed laser, the trajectory of which is defined as a pattern 111a corresponding to the pattern 111 of the predetermined substrate 1.

[0091] In a particular variant, the first step of forming the E1 relief may comprise fixing a plate 98a featuring a mask or stencil provided with cavities, such as Fig.14 Next, the blank 1a is etched, this etching forming a cavity 3a through the plate 98a, which cavity 3a is formed in relief according to the pattern 111a. Thus, a cavity is also formed on the plate 98a, in line with the cavity 3a. In this particular variant, the mask or stencil 98 thus formed can be retained to carry out the material deposition step E2, so that the deposition of the material 4 can be positioned inside the cavity 3a, as shown in FIG. Fig.15 shown.

[0092] In this second example, the step of depositing E2 of material is carried out on at least a portion of said surface having relief, as in the first example.

[0093] Thus, in all examples of this second variant embodiment, the step of deposition E2 of material 4 comprises the deposition of at least one layer of material 4 by any technique known to a person skilled in the art. This may involve a step of applying a paint, a lacquer, a varnish or a composite material, in particular a luminescent composite material, by any technique known to a person skilled in the art, such as a spraying technique or by a brush. Alternatively, it may involve the deposition of a metal or metal alloy layer in the cavity 3a by any technique known to a person skilled in the art, such as physical vapor deposition (PVD), chemical vapor deposition (CVD) or atomic layer deposition (ALD). Depending on the technique chosen for implementing the step of deposition E2 of material, a mask or stencil previously manufactured during said step may optionally be used.

[0094] According to an alternative embodiment, the step of deposition E2 of material 4 may also comprise several depositions of different material layers. For example, a first metal adhesion layer may first be deposited inside cavity 3a so as to allow improved adhesion of a paint, varnish or lacquer inside said cavity 3a.

[0095] Finally, according to this second variant embodiment, a step of integrally joining E3 the blank 2a of transparent or translucent protective layer 2 to the blank 1a of substrate obtained in the previous step is then carried out. This is identical to what has been described above for the first variant embodiment.

[0096] according to Fig.16 In the second embodiment shown, the method for manufacturing a timepiece component comprises the following steps:

[0097] - obtaining a first layer 11 * of polymer of the substrate 1 * or of a blank of the substrate 1 *, without a relief;

[0098] - depositing E2 at least one layer of material 41 *, 42 * on the first layer 11 * and partially removing said material 41 *, 42 *, so that a relief E1 is formed on said substrate 1 * by the deposition of said material;

[0099] - Integrally bonding E3 a transparent or semi-transparent protective layer 2* to said substrate 1*.

[0100] Thus, according to this second embodiment, the relief of the substrate is not formed separately from the contribution of material, but the relief is formed by the deposition of material. In other words, the deposition of material here performs a dual function, on the one hand, of modifying the visual appearance of the surface of the part, for example the color (relative to a part obtained with the same relief but without the addition of material), as in the first embodiment, and, on the other hand, of forming the relief. Moreover, unlike the first embodiment, the step of depositing E2 of material is carried out before the step of forming E1 the relief.

[0101] According to a first variant of this second embodiment, the step of deposition E2 of material consists in integrally joining, by compression, at least one blank of material layers 41 *, 42 superimposed on the surface of the blank of first layer 11 *. Fig.16 A variant is specifically shown in which two layers 41 *, 42 * (or a plurality of blanks of a plurality of layers) are superimposed on the surface of a blank of a first layer 11 *. These three blanks can each be in the form of an original blank or a preform. The parameters of this integral joining, in particular the duration, pressure, temperature, etc., are specifically selected so as to obtain an assembly resulting from the combination of the three blanks, wherein the material of each of the layers 11 *, 41 *, 42 * is not completely crosslinked and / or its dimensions are indeterminate, so as to facilitate the implementation of the step of integral joining E3 of the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 *, as described below.

[0102] The method then comprises a second step, which consists in forming an E1 relief on said surface of the assembly formed by the three superimposed layers 11 *, 41 *, 42 *. According to this second embodiment, a cavity 3 * is formed in at least one of the surface layers 42 *, 41 * using a laser, in particular a femtosecond pulsed laser, the trajectory of which is defined to correspond to the predefined pattern 111 *. The depth of the cavity can vary so as to expose the second layer 41 * or the first layer 11 *. This depth can completely or partially remove the third layer 42 * or the second layer 41 *, in other words, the depth of the cavity can correspond to the thickness of the third layer 42 * or the sum of the thickness of the third layer 42 * and the second layer 41 *. Alternatively, this depth is slightly smaller so as not to completely remove one of the third layer 42 * or the second layer 41 *, while still allowing the underlying layer to be seen through the remainder of the partially removed layer.

[0103] Advantageously, the substrate 1 * is thus in the form of a layer 11 * on which are deposited different layers 41 *, 42 * forming reliefs having different visual appearances, for example different colors. Like the timepiece component 10 produced by the method according to the first embodiment, the timepiece component 10 * also comprises a second transparent or translucent protective layer 2 *, the lower surface 200 * of which is in contact at least with the upper surface 110 * of the upper layer of the substrate.

[0104] The method then comprises a step of integrally joining E3 the transparent or translucent protective layer 2* to the substrate 1* with the relief, obtained by the above-described steps from the three layers 11*, 41*, 42* superimposed and assembled together. This step is carried out in the same way as in the first embodiment, starting from a blank of the transparent or translucent protective layer 2a*, in particular made of a material that is not completely crosslinked, or whose dimensions are indeterminate. This blank is compressed on the previously obtained assembly under selected pressure and temperature conditions in order to obtain good adhesion of this blank, which then finally forms the top protective layer.

[0105] As in the case of the watch component 10 produced according to the method of the first embodiment, the two parts 1* and 2* can be partially or completely integrally joined, depending on the flexibility of the blank 2a* and the pressure and temperature conditions. Thus, the parts 1* and 2* can be integrally joined only on the upper surface 110* of the upper layer of the substrate 1* and the lower surface 200* of the layer 2*. They can also advantageously be integrally joined on all surfaces of the relief 111* and the lower surface 200* of the layer 2*, as Fig.16 shown.

[0106] According to a second variant embodiment of this second embodiment, the two steps E1, E3 of the method can be reversed. In particular, the step of integrally joining E3 the transparent or translucent protective layer 2* can be performed before the step E1 of forming the relief. In particular, the cavity 3* can be produced by laser through the transparent or translucent protective layer 2* so as to obtain the assembly 10*.

[0107] According to Fig.17 In the variant schematically depicted in FIG, the upper surface of the transparent or translucent protective layer may not be flat and / or continuous, but may, for example, have cavities, also forming a pattern, for example, corresponding to the relief 111 *. Advantageously, such a pattern may correspond to all or part of a pattern formed by material deposition and / or by the relief of the substrate. Such an embodiment can be implemented in all variants of all embodiments.

[0108] Of course, the steps of the different variants and different embodiments described can be combined with one another to form other variant embodiments.

[0109] For example, the same timepiece component may comprise a cavity coloured by the deposited material according to a first embodiment of the method and a cavity at least partially penetrated so as to expose at least one other layer of the substrate according to a second embodiment of the method.

[0110] In all cases, the method of manufacturing a watch component comprises the following three steps: Fig.18 As shown, the order can be varied, as described above:

[0111] - forming an E1 relief on a polymer substrate of a timepiece component;

[0112] - depositing E2 material on at least a portion of said substrate;

[0113] - Integrally bonding a transparent or translucent protective layer to all or part of said relief and / or material deposit.

[0114] The invention also relates to a watch or jewelry component obtained by the method according to the invention. As mentioned above, such a watch component can be a bracelet part. In the context of this specification, a "bracelet part" refers to a finished or semi-finished product. It can be a ready-to-wear bracelet part: in this case, the base plate of the part is preferably intended to come into contact with the wrist of the wearer. Alternatively, it can be a part of a bracelet part characterized by an outer covering of the bracelet part, which bracelet part can be intended, for example, to be attached to an internal structure, such as a "tear-proof". More generally, a watch component can be a finished or semi-finished product.

[0115] In a variant, it may be any external component of a watch, such as a bezel disk that may be attached to a bezel ring or a dial that may be assembled inside a watch case.

[0116] The timepiece component comprises a substrate made of polymer material, said substrate comprising a relief and at least part of a material deposit, and said relief is fully or partially covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer.

[0117] The thickness of the substrate is adapted to the watch component to be manufactured. It can be 0.5 mm to 3 mm, whether it comprises one or more layers. The thickness of the transparent or translucent protective layer can be 0.2 mm to 0.5 mm, or 0.2 mm to 0.3 mm. In order to enhance or highlight the color of at least one layer of the substrate, it is preferred for the second protective layer to have a considerable thickness of about 0.5 mm.

[0118] In the context of this specification, "blank" means an element that represents a substrate or a layer, regardless of its manufacturing stage.

[0119] According to the first embodiment described above, the substrate and its relief form a one-piece assembly made of polymer material.

[0120] According to the second embodiment described above, the substrate is in the form of a layer without relief, onto which a material deposit is deposited in order to form the relief.

[0121] According to a first embodiment, the material deposit can be applied only to a portion of the area with the relief. Advantageously, the material deposit can be applied only to the protruding parts of the relief or only to the cavities of the relief, in particular to areas of the same height of the relief. The latter method makes it possible to highlight the relief and visually magnify it. To this end, the material deposition is carried out using a material that produces a specific visual effect, such as, as described above, a specific color different from the rest of the substrate.

[0122] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, the substrate may also comprise at least one zone free from deposits of said material.

[0123] Furthermore, in particular in the first embodiment, the protruding parts can also be colored complementary to the cavities of the relief, for example with different materials having different colors, in order to highlight the difference between these parts of the relief. In the case of a first variant of the first embodiment, only the cavities of the structured surface 240 can include deposits of material 4, so as to color only the protruding parts of the relief 111.

[0124] The material deposit may be a deposit of a metal or a metal alloy, or a deposit of a paint, lacquer, varnish or a composite material, in particular a deposit with a luminescent, phosphorescent or fluorescent material.

[0125] All or part of the substrate (in particular at least one layer) and / or the transparent or translucent protective layer are made of a polymer material, such as a thermoplastic or thermosetting polymer, or a polymer-based material, i.e. containing at least 50% by weight of a polymer material, and is therefore mainly a polymer, and advantageously an elastomer or an elastomer-based material, in particular a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or a synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or vinyl methyl silicone (VMQ) or fluorosilicone (FVMQ).

[0126] Advantageously, the material of at least one layer of the substrate and the material of the transparent or translucent protective layer are compatible so that they adhere to each other independently of any additional means such as adhesives. In particular, the polymer of at least one layer of the substrate and the polymer of the opposite transparent or translucent protective layer have the same chemical nature to promote crosslinking between them. Preferably, the selected polymers belong to the same chemical family, in particular the family of fluoroelastomers. In other words, the selected materials advantageously comprise the same polymer matrix.

[0127] The relief of the substrate may include all or some of the following features:

[0128] - at least one relief having a height, measured in a direction perpendicular to said timepiece component, of 1 nm-2 mm, or 1 nm-500 μm, or 1 nm-10 μm, or 1 nm-10 nm; and / or

[0129] - multiple reliefs that intersect, and / or

[0130] - at least one cavity having an opening narrower than its maximum width or comprising a lower portion parallel to the structured surface having a larger area than another parallel portion located above said lower portion.

[0131] The present invention does not relate to the relief itself. The pattern formed by the relief of the substrate may be any pattern, such as an aesthetic feature and / or a functional marking.

[0132] Thus, the cavities 3; 3* of the relief can have any shape. They can have Fig.10 The V-shaped portion shown, or having a Fig.15 and 16The serrated portions shown (with sides perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the surface of the timepiece component). Of course, they can have more complex shapes, in particular in the case of obtaining a pattern formed on at least one first layer according to the first variant of the first embodiment (in particular using a mold element). Moreover, in the case of a multilayer substrate, these cavities can be concealed, in other words, they do not completely pass through at least one surface layer of the substrate; likewise, they can be through-cavities or at least partially transparent, so as to, for example, reveal other layers of the substrate.

[0133] The invention also relates to a wristwatch comprising at least one timepiece component as described above.

Claims

1. A timepiece component (10; 10*), in particular a bracelet part, wherein: The timepiece component (10; 10*) comprises a substrate (1; 1*) made of a polymer or a polymer-based material, the substrate comprising a relief (111; 111*) and at least a portion of a material deposit (4; 41*, 42*), wherein all or part of the relief (111; 111*) is covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*).

2. A timepiece component according to the preceding claim, wherein: The substrate (1) and its relief (111) form a one-piece component made of polymer material, or wherein, The substrate (1*) is in the form of a layer (11*) without relief, on which the material deposit (41*, 42*) is deposited to form the relief (111*).

3. A timepiece component according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The material deposits (4) are applied to areas of the same height of the relief, in particular to protrusions of the relief or to cavities of the relief.

4. A timepiece component according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The substrate (1; 1*) comprises at least one region free of deposits of the material.

5. A timepiece component according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The material deposit (4) is a deposit of a metal or a metal alloy, or a deposit of a paint, lacquer, varnish or a composite material, in particular a deposit of a luminescent, phosphorescent or fluorescent material.

6. A timepiece component according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The substrate (1*1*) and / or the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) are made of an elastomeric material or an elastomer-based material, and the elastomeric material or the elastomer-based material is particularly a fluorine-containing elastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or natural rubber (NR), or synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or vinyl methyl silicone (VMQ), or fluorosilicone (FVMQ).

7. A timepiece component according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein: The relief (111; 111*) of the substrate comprises all or part of the following features: - at least one relief having a height, measured in a direction perpendicular to said timepiece component (10; 10*), of 1 nm to 2 mm, or 1 nm to 500 μm, or 1 nm to 10 μm, or 1 nm to 10 nm; and / or - multiple reliefs that intersect, and / or - at least one cavity having an opening narrower than its maximum width or comprising a lower portion parallel to the structured surface having a larger area than another parallel portion located above said lower portion.

8. A method for manufacturing a timepiece component (10; 10*), wherein: The method comprises the following steps: - forming (E1) a relief on a substrate (1) made of a polymer or polymer-based material of said timepiece component; - depositing (E2) a material (4; 41*; 42*) on at least a portion of said substrate (1; 1*); - Integrally joining (E3) a transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) to all or part of said relief and / or material deposit.

9. Method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to the preceding claim, wherein: The step of forming (E1) a relief on the substrate (1) comprises forming the relief by molding the polymer substrate (1) in a mold (20).

10. Method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to the preceding claim, wherein: The step of depositing (E2) material (4) comprises depositing material on a relief of a surface of the mould (20) or on a structured insert (24) placed in the mould, so that the material deposit (4) is transferred to the substrate (1) during the moulding of the substrate (1).

11. The method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to claim 9 or 10, wherein: The step of moulding the substrate (1) comprises placing a structured insert (24) in the mould (20) such that the relief of the substrate (1) is formed using the structured insert, and wherein the method comprises the following steps to manufacture the structured insert (24): - obtaining (E01) a mould element (99) comprising a structured surface (990) having a pattern to be replicated on a surface of a timepiece component; - covering ( E02 ) the structured surface ( 990 ) of the mold element ( 99 ) with a molding resin capable of replicating a pattern in the negative form of the pattern of the structured surface, and allowing the molding resin to cure so as to obtain a structured insert ( 24 ); - separating ( E03 ) a structured insert ( 24 ) from said mould element ( 99 ), said structured insert ( 24 ) comprising a surface ( 240 ) comprising said pattern in negative form; - Optionally, cutting the structured insert ( 24 ) into a form corresponding to at least a portion of the timepiece component ( 10 ) to be manufactured.

12. The method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to claim 8, wherein: The method comprises the step of first depositing (E2) material (41*; 42*) on a layer (11*) of a substrate (1*), and then the step of forming (E1) a relief on the substrate (1*) comprises partially removing the material (41*; 42*) so that the relief of the substrate (1*) is formed by the material deposition.

13. Method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to the preceding claim, wherein: The deposited material (41*; 42*) is a polymer, in particular an elastomer or an elastomer-based material, in particular a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or a synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or vinyl methyl silicone (VMQ) or fluorosilicone (FVMQ).

14. The method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to claim 12 or 13, wherein: The step of forming (E1) a relief on the substrate (1*) comprises partially removing the material (41*; 42*) by means of a laser, in particular a femtosecond pulse laser.

15. The method for manufacturing a timepiece component according to any one of claims 8 to 14, wherein: The substrate (1; 1*) and the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) are made of compatible respective polymer materials, so that the step of integrally joining the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) causes the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) to directly adhere to all or part of the substrate (1; 1*) by cross-linking the respective materials.

Images