Liquid emulsions comprising ethylcellulose, natural resins, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters and / or polar hydrocarbon-based oils and methods of using same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:-4% to 25% by weight of ethyl cellulose; -at least one natural resin; -at least one first non-volatile oil, which is liquid at 25 DEG C, selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols; -at least one hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester function, which is solid at ambient temperature; at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, different from the first oil and selected from ester, ether or carbonate oils; or mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips and preferably the lips, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention.

Description

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition provided in the form of an emulsion comprising ethylcellulose, a natural resin, at least one alcohol oil and at least one solid hydrocarbon-based ester compound and / or a specific polar hydrocarbon-based oil, and also a method for using it for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials.

[0002] Currently on the market for skin and / or lip care and / or make-up, many products claim good wear properties throughout the day, as well as resistance to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" products for lips or for face that can be used at home are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, mainly volatile oils. For example, compositions comprising silicone resins as coating agents, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) resins, or comprising silicone polymers, such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer-INCI name) are known.

[0003] In recent years, consumers have become increasingly demanding with regard to the composition of their cosmetic products and in particular seek products using increasingly higher contents of natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, ingredients that minimize environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0004] However, there remains difficulty in reconciling these latest trends with consumers not wanting to give up the very high performance they have become accustomed to in the products they already use.

[0005] The object of the present invention is to propose a composition which provides excellent persistence of the desired cosmetic effect, especially of the make-up color, on the skin and lips, which is resistant to mechanical abrasion, to meals, to water, to sweat and perspiration, to sebum, to oil, or even to cleansing products, especially make-up-removing products (such as certain micellar waters) or make-up-removing wipes.

[0006] Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to propose compositions which provide the desired cosmetic effect, in particular the durability of the color of the cosmetic, together with an acceptable level of comfort.

[0007] These and other objects are achieved by the present invention, a subject of which is a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:

[0008] - 4 to 25% by weight of ethylcellulose, expressed as active ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0009] - at least one natural resin;

[0010] - at least one first non-volatile oil which is liquid at 25°C and is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 10 -C 26 Fatty alcohols;

[0011] at least one hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester function, solid at ambient temperature; at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil, liquid at 25° C., different from the first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils; or mixtures thereof.

[0012] Another subject of the invention is a method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips and preferably the lips, which comprises applying a composition according to the invention.

[0013] Other aspects and advantages of the invention will become more apparent on reading the following description and examples.

[0014] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin refers to the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), body and hands.

[0015] The compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This means that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable" means that it is compatible with the skin and / or lips, that it has a pleasant color, smell and feel, and that it does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that could easily prevent the consumer from using the composition.

[0016] The term "ambient temperature" means 25°C.

[0017] The term "atmospheric pressure" means 760 mmHg, which is 1.013×10 5 Pascal.

[0018] The composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion that is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.).

[0019] The term "liquid" means a composition that flows under its own weight after one hour at ambient temperature. Advantageously, the viscosity can be measured according to the following protocol:

[0020] Viscosity measurements are carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer equipped with an appropriate spindle (No. 1 to No. 4) after the spindle has been rotated in the composition at a shear rate of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm) for 10 minutes.

[0021] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity at 25°C of 0.005 to 18 Pa.s, preferably 0.01 to 15 Pa.s.

[0022] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of an oil-in-water direct emulsion (the continuous phase of the emulsion is the aqueous phase) or in the form of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion (the continuous phase is the lipophilic phase). Preferably, the composition is in the form of a direct emulsion.

[0023] The compositions for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This means that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable" means that it is compatible with the skin and / or lips, that it has a pleasant color, smell and feel, and that it does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tightness) that could easily prevent the consumer from using the composition.

[0024] Ethyl cellulose

[0025] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least ethylcellulose.

[0026] Ethylcellulose is a cellulose ethyl ether comprising chains of β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of which can react according to the following reaction:

[0027] RONa+C2H5Cl→ROC2H5+NaCl, where R represents a cellulose group.

[0028] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy, in particular ethoxy, content of 54.88%.

[0029] The ethylcellulose polymer used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably a polymer having a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0030] The average molar mass of the ethylcellulose is preferably selected such that a 5% by weight solution in a 80 / 20 (toluene / ethanol) mixture has a viscosity at 25° C. in the range from 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably 5 to 200 mPa.s (eg 5 to 150 mPa.s) (Standard ASTM D 914).

[0031] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention may be in powdered form.

[0032] For example, it is sold under the trade name Ethocel Standard by The Dow Chemical Company, in particular Ethocel Standard 7FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the name Aqualon ethylcellulose types K, N and T, preferably type N (such as N7, N100), are particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention.

[0033] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention may also be in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, such as a dispersion of latex or pseudolatex type. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

[0034] The product sold by FMC Biopolymer under the name Aquacoat ECD-30, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose in water at a proportion of about 26.2% by weight and is stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol, is most particularly suitable as aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose.

[0035] According to one particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product Aquacoat ECD, can be used in a proportion of 10% to 90% by weight, in particular 15% to 60% by weight and preferably 20% to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises ethylcellulose in the aqueous phase of the emulsion (in particular in the form of particles dispersed in the aqueous phase) and in the lipophilic phase of the composition.

[0037] The content of ethylcellulose expressed as active material more particularly represents 4% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight and even more preferably 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Natural resin

[0039] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.

[0040] Standard ISO 4618:2014 (fr) defines resins as "usually amorphous macromolecular products ranging in consistency from solid to liquid". Natural resins are also considered natural binders, which have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably without synthetic chemistry.

[0041] Natural resins are of virtually only plant origin (fossilized or harvested) and are secreted by plants and then exuded for defense, protection, and communication purposes in their ecosystems. Shellac is an exception, being of animal origin and secreted by the insect Coccus lacca.

[0042] The resin used in the present invention is advantageously chosen from resins of plant origin.

[0043] For the purposes of the present invention, "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", means any substance containing a minimum content of terpene compounds, i.e. at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds relative to the total weight of the substance (or material) in question, as chemically defined below, which substances are derived directly or indirectly from the secretions and exudates mainly of plants (and less frequently of animals) that serve as substances for the role of defence, protection and communication in their ecosystems.

[0044] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is insoluble in water at ambient temperature.

[0045] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 10 000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 5000 g / mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 2000 g / mol, and even better still less than or equal to 1000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 1000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established using linear polystyrene standards, refractometer).

[0046] Thermal properties

[0047] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized in that they have a softening point, which represents the temperature at which they pass from the quasi-solid state to the plastic state during heating.

[0048] Preferably, the resin of the present invention has a softening point (or temperature) preferably in the range of 20 to 150°C, more preferably 30 to 100°C, even more preferably 40 to 90°C.

[0049] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain softening degree under standardized conditions. It represents the temperature at which a quasi-solid state changes to a plastic state during heating. It can be measured for resins by the ring and ball method (or RBT, ring and ball temperature) according to standard ASTM E284.

[0050] Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature preferably below 360°C, preferably below 190°C and even more preferably below 90°C.

[0051] According to a preferred form of the invention, the resin does not have a melting temperature.

[0052] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of the substance can coexist in equilibrium;

[0053] Preferably, the glass transition temperature of the resin of the present invention is preferably in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably 30°C to 70°C.

[0054] The glass transition (Tg) of a material represents the temperature range through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (rigid) state.

[0055] The thermal properties of the resin, in particular Mp and Tg, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example by a DSC 8000 apparatus from Perkin Elmer according to the following protocol:

[0056] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperature Mp and crystallization temperature Tc: Starting material alone or dissolved / dispersed in solvent, stainless steel plate, scan from 5°C to 90°C, scan rate 5°C.min-1.

[0057] - Protocol 2: Determination of glass transition temperature Tg: Measurement on second heating. Using an aluminum pan (40 μl) containing the starting material, a temperature scan (with isotherm) from -100°C to 150°C was performed to observe the glass transition temperature. For the glass transition temperature, the temperature ramp applied was 10°C / min (2 cycles).

[0058] Botanical definition of resin

[0059] Natural resins of plant or animal origin are conventionally defined by Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Resins, Synthetic" 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2. Natural resins include in particular rosins (tall oil rosins, wood or gums derived from tree and plant exudates; wood extracts, or by-products from papermaking), fossil resins (such as amber), extracted resins (such as bituminous rock), shellac (such as shellac produced from insect secretions) and their main derivatives.

[0060] The resins of the invention are preferably of vegetable origin, in particular from plants or trees.

[0061] Fossil resin is (hard and semi-hard) resin collected from underground, which was once an ancient forest that disappeared for a long time underground. Due to aging or slaking, some fossil resins have undergone considerable changes in their chemical structure, which may have taken thousands of years. The transition from fossil resin to modern resin may change. For example, they can include resins not only found in fossil form but also harvested from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected from the foot of the tree that produces them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry [Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry], "Resins, Natural [natural resins] " 2012 Willy-VCH Publishing Company (Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGaA), Weinheim [Weinheim], DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l'Ingénieur [Engineering Technology], "Résines Naturelles" [natural resins], 1982Bernard Delmond).

[0062] Harvested resin is recent (tender). Harvested resin is harvested from all living plants. Based on the composition of harvested resin, it is subdivided into:

[0063] -Oleoresins: natural solutions of resins in essential oils;

[0064] - Balsam: a resin characterized by a high proportion of benzoic and cinnamic acids and their esters;

[0065] - Gums: Resins consisting essentially of polysaccharides;

[0066] - Gums-resins: mixtures of resins and hydrophilic gums;

[0067] - Latex: milky composition of an organic substance dispersed in an aqueous medium: (Techniques de l'Ingénieur [Engineering techniques], "Résines Naturelles" [Natural resins], 1982 Bernard Delmond).

[0068] Among the resins of the present invention, particularly modern resins, the resins soluble in oil and / or alcohol are preferably in a water-soluble form, such as latex or gum.

[0069] According to a preferred mode of the invention, the resins of the invention are harvested resins; these are particularly advantageous according to the invention from an ecological point of view, since they are self-regenerating. Preferably, the resins of the invention are modern.

[0070] Chemical definition of resin

[0071] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds, whose presence and content define the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic components, and polysaccharides (exclusively found in gums).

[0072] The components that characterize the resins are the terpene compounds they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight relative to the weight of the resin.

[0073] “Terpenic compounds” means terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene with the general formula (C5H8)n and its many derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) containing the terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier [Montpellier Academy]. Les résines [Resins]: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0074] Among the terpene hydrocarbons, a distinction is made between monoterpenes of the empirical formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of the empirical formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), disesquiterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they include a plurality of double bonds, which corresponds to their empirical formula: 3 for C10H16, 5 for C20H32, 7 for C30H48. The rest have one or more rings, so that the number of double bonds is reduced, for example one ring and 2 double bonds for C10H16, or 2 rings and one double bond.

[0075] Advantageously, the resin of the invention contains at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% by weight of terpene compounds and even more preferably at least 60% by weight of terpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin or resinous substance used as starting material in the composition according to the invention.

[0076] Monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes are the main volatile compounds constituting, for example, essential oils.Polyterpenes derived from terpenes where n is greater than or equal to 4, such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes, are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

[0077] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight of polyterpenoids, i.e. compounds derived from terpenes in which n is greater than or equal to 4, relative to a total weight of 100% by weight of the resin. Thus, resins having a fraction that is solid at ambient temperature (25° C.) are preferred. Advantageously, the resin used according to the invention is not volatile.

[0078] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resin or resinous substance used in the composition of the invention are mainly (more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0079] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, i.e. compounds derived from terpenes in which n is less than 4, relative to the total weight of the resin accounting for 100% by weight; preferably, the resin comprises less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the resin accounting for 100% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds derived from which n is less than 4. Therefore, for the composition of the invention, it is preferred to limit the use of the most volatile resins, since they are less effective in terms of the durability properties of the cosmetic film.

[0080] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be included in the natural resins of the present invention has been generated. This list lists families of terpene compounds that are subdivided based on the characteristic groups (alcohol function, ketone function, acid function, etc.) of each compound (as listed below).

[0081] Examples of Monoterpenes

[0082] Advantageously, the monoterpene compound of the resin is chosen from α-pinene, β-pinene, 3-carene, camphene, dipentene, p-cymene, B-myrcene, α-phellandrene, sabinene, α-thujacene, limonene, octyl acetate, neryl acetate, bornyl acetate, geranyl acetate, α-terpineol, eucalyptol, linalool, camphenol, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Examples of Sesquiterpenes

[0084] Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compound of the resin is chosen from the group consisting of α-cubane, β-caryophyllene, β-bisabolene, β-gulurene, α-gulurene, allo-orangene, β-bourbonne, δ-cadinene, α-guaiacene, α-elemene, β-elemene, δ-elemene, α-cubane, α-phellinene, β-phellinene, β-bourbonne, linderene, furfural-1,3-diene, α-cuberene, farnesol, α-elemenol, virgin olive oil, t-cadinol, β-elemenol, germacone, curcumone, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Examples of diterpenoids

[0086] Advantageously, the diterpenoids of the resin are selected from the group consisting of abietic acid, pimaric acid, sandaracopimaric acid, slash pimaric acid, levopimaric acid, palustric acid, isopimaric acid, dehydroabietic acid, neoabietic acid, kaurenic acid, coniferene A, coniferene C, isopinatum, valerian-4(20),7,11-triene, boswellol, totarol, sandaracopimaric acid, cembrenol, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Examples of triterpenoids

[0088] Advantageously, the triterpenoids of the resin are chosen from:

[0089] 3β,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarene acid, dammardienoic acid, hydroxydammarene (I or II), dammarenediol I (or II), dammardienoic acid, 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-β-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), β-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangolic acid, arbutin, α-amyrinone, α-amyrin alcohol, β-amyrin alcohol, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, acetyllupine acid, lupine acid, lupine alcohol,

[0090] Betulinum, hydroxyhopanone, their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0091] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the resin used according to the invention contains at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, which is natural or chemically modified.

[0092] According to a second embodiment of the invention, as an alternative to the first embodiment or indeed in addition to the first embodiment, the resin used according to the invention contains at least one triterpene compound, preferably selected from the following triterpene compounds: α-amyrin, β-amyrin, α-amyrinone, β-amyrinone, dammardienonone, dammardienonol, ursolic acid, hydroxyhopazone, caryophyllene, ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof. The total content of triterpene compounds in the resin used according to the invention, in particular the content of the above preferred triterpene compounds, is advantageously at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, even more preferably at least 30% by weight, and preferably at least 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the natural resin. Mention may be made in particular of mastic resins containing such triterpene compounds, such as Aesculus quinata resin or Sauvignon ovata resin.

[0093] The chemical composition of the resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art, such as gas chromatography GC analysis, chromatography with flame ionization detection (known as GC-FID) or GC / MS analysis (which involves the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph); preferably by GC-FID. These common methods are mentioned in the following paper: "Développements méthodologiques en TLC / MALDITOF MS et GC / MS for l'analyse des composés "Advances in methods for the analysis of terpenoids present in plant resins" [Advances in methods for the analysis of terpenoids present in plant resins using TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS], https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308.

[0094] Definition of resins by their origin:

[0095] Advantageously, the natural resins according to the invention are chosen from: a) grass resins, b) amber, c) asphaltites and black bitumen, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (especially kauri copal resin, copal resin from Manila, West African copal such as Congo, Angola or Cameroon copal, East African copal such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copal, South American copal such as Brazilian or Colombian copal), i) dammar resin, j) elemi resin, k) frankincense, l) white rosin, m) labdanum, n) mastic resin, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax (balsam), s) Venetian turpentine (larch, turpentine essence), t) rosin, especially rosin, rosinates and tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins.

[0096] Preferably, the natural resin used according to the invention is selected from mastic resin (k) and resins extracted from plant waxes (v). It should be understood that the resins of the invention may be esterified, salified, adducts, phenol-modified, and / or dimerized and otherwise hydrogenated.

[0097] Frankincense Resin (Oliban)

[0098] Frankincense is found in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and eastern India. Frankincense resin is modern and is taken from the Boswellia carterii tree, Boswellia carterii. Amazonian Frankincense resin also exists. The bark is intentionally wounded to obtain a milky white extract which is recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin of the present invention is selected from Frankincense, in particular Amazonian Frankincense.

[0099] Frankincense resin is pale yellow and forms irregular round or spherical beads. They usually contain 20% to 40% (about 33%) by weight of boswellic acid (C 32 H 52 O4). Frankincense has an acid value of 30% to 50% (indirect) and is moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin of the invention is chosen from frankincense, in particular Amazonian frankincense resin sold under the name Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, and frankincense resin derived from the Sauvignon tree (Sauvignon ovata).

[0101] Advantageously, the resin is in a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below according to the invention, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Mention may be made, for example, of the sauvignon resin with sunflower oil sold under the name Kahlresin 6720 (sauvignon resin, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, tocopherol: 50% to 75% by weight of sauvignon resin, 25% to 50% by weight of sunflower oil) and the sauvignon resin with octyldodecanol sold by Kahlresin 6720 (sauvignon resin and octyldodecanol, 50% to 70% by weight of sauvignon resin, 30% to 50% by weight of octyldodecanol).

[0102] Resins extracted from plant waxes

[0103] Natural plant waxes themselves are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain very low levels of resins, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total weight of the wax. For example, carnauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a palm tree (Copernica cerifera) to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica originating from northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from the effects of its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, Candelilla wax is primarily composed of hydrocarbons (approximately 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20% to 29%), free acids (7% to 9%), and resins (12%-14%, mainly triterpene esters).

[0104] However, for the purposes of the present invention, the definition of "natural resin" also includes resins resulting from plant waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, separated or extracted from these waxes, as long as the resinous or terpenic component in question contains the minimum content of terpenes required by the invention (30% by weight relative to the total weight of the component). Mention may in particular be made of the Candelilla resin sold under the name Candelilla Resin E-1 by Japan Natural Products with the INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax extract (pure 100% resin, extracted from the corresponding wax). Document WO 2013 / 147113 A1 also relates to carnauba resins, i.e. terpene resins extracted from carnauba wax, having physical properties similar to those of the natural resins traditionally described, such as a softening temperature instead of a melting temperature, which distinguishes the resins from the waxes.

[0105] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from the group consisting of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax extract, Psoralea corylifolia resin, Shorea chinensis resin and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected from the group consisting of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax extract, Shorea chinensis resin and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Advantageously, the resin is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0107] First Oil

[0108] As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 10 -C 26 A fatty alcohol, preferably a monohydric alcohol, is used as the first non-volatile oil which is liquid at 25°C.

[0109] Advantageously, C 10 -C 26 The alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohols contain 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As specific examples of fatty alcohols that can preferably be used, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol and octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

[0110] More specifically, according to the first embodiment of the present invention, the content of the first oil ranges from 0.5 wt % to less than 20 wt %, more specifically 2 wt % to 15 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] More specifically, according to the second embodiment of the present invention, the content of the first oil ranges from 20% to 60% by weight, more specifically from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] Second oil

[0113] The composition according to the invention may optionally contain at least one specific 5 A second non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that is liquid at 1000 psi (2000 Å).

[0114] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil whose vapor pressure at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. The vapor pressure can be measured, for example, according to a static method or by diametral analysis by isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (standard OCDE 104).

[0115] The composition according to the invention comprises as second oil at least one oil chosen from:

[0116] * an ether of the formula ROR' or a carbonate of the formula RO(CO)OR', in which the R and R' radicals, whether identical or not, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based radical containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C 16 Group;

[0117] *Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils;

[0118] * optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, wherein at least one ester function is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms;

[0119] *Liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of dimers of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acids; the fatty acids contain from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0120] - and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, the second oil is selected from:

[0122] - dioctyl ether;

[0123] -Dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate and C 14 -C 15 Dialkyl esters;

[0124] - castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, almond oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, red chestnut oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, black currant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, nut oil, passionflower oil, rose oil, liquid fractions of shea butter and liquid fractions of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof;

[0125] -2-Ethylhexyl Palmitate, 2-Octyldecyl Palmitate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, 2-Octyldodecyl Stearate, Butyl Stearate, 2-Octyldodecyl Erucate, Benzoic Acid C 12 To C 15 Alkyl Esters, 2-Octyldodecyl Benzoate, Isocetyl Isostearate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Hexyl Laurate, 2-Hexyldecyl Laurate, Isopropyl Myristate, 2-Octyldodecyl Myristate, Diisostearyl Malate, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate, Tri(2-Decylmuramic Acid)glyceryl, Capric Triglyceride / Caprylic Triglyceride, C 18-36 triglyceride, triheptanoin, tricaprylin, tri(2-decyltetradecanoic acid)glyceryl, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythritol tetranonanoate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyltetradecanoic acid); isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate;

[0126] - polyesters with the following INCI names: Dilinoleic acid / butylene glycol copolymer, Dilinoleic acid / propylene glycol copolymer, Dilinoleic acid dilinoleate dimer;

[0127] - and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Preferably, the second oil is chosen from: dicaprylyl ether; dicaprylyl carbonate; non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, such as, for example, olive oil; castor oil; capric triglyceride / caprylic triglyceride, isocetyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tridecyl stearate, pentaerythritol esters, such as, in particular, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, and also mixtures thereof.

[0129] The content of the second oil, if it is contained in the composition, ranges from 2% to 35% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] Solid hydrocarbon-based compounds having ester functional groups

[0131] The composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based compound comprising an ester function which is solid at ambient temperature. For the purposes of the present invention, this means that the compound comprises at least one ester function (—COOR).

[0132] The term "hydrocarbon-based compound" generally refers to a compound that is essentially formed by carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, or even consists of them, and does not contain any other heteroatoms, such as atoms of silicon, fluorine, phosphorus, etc. Advantageously, the solid hydrocarbon-based compound used according to the invention contains only carbon, hydrogen, oxygen atoms.

[0133] The solid compound may be selected from waxes.

[0134] More particularly, the wax is a lipophilic compound that is solid at a temperature greater than 22° C., preferably greater than or equal to 25° C., with a reversible solid / liquid state change, in particular with a melting point greater than or equal to 30° C., even more particularly greater than or equal to 45° C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90° C., more particularly less than or equal to 80° C. and preferably less than or equal to 70° C.

[0135] The melting point of the solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSCQ100 by TA Instruments, using the TA Universal analysis software.

[0136] The measurement scheme is as follows:

[0137] A sample of approximately 5 mg of solid fatty material was placed in a "sealed aluminum capsule" crucible.

[0138] The sample was subjected to a first temperature increase extending from 20°C to 120°C (at a heating rate of 2°C / min until 80°C), then the sample was isothermal at 100°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 120°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase extending from 0°C to 20°C (at a heating rate of 2°C / min).

[0139] The value of the melting point of a solid fatty substance is the value at the top of the maximum observed endothermic peak of the melting curve which represents the variation of the absorbed power difference with variation of temperature.

[0140] The solid compound may be selected from pasty compounds.

[0141] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 20° C. Thus, a pasty compound may exhibit an onset melting point of less than 20° C. Furthermore, a pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principles as described in detail above for waxes.

[0142] However, in the case of pasty compounds, the measurement protocol is as follows:

[0143] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible was subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C (at a heating rate of 10°C / min), then it was cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / min, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C (at a heating rate of 5°C / min).

[0144] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation of the difference in energy absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0145] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

[0146] The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the amount of heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when the entire mass of the substance is in the form of a crystalline solid. A pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when the entire mass of the substance is in the form of a liquid.

[0147] The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of a pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0148] Among the solid hydrocarbon-based compounds that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of:

[0149] * Vegetable fat,

[0150] *Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils,

[0151] * Vegetable wax,

[0152] *Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax,

[0153] * Hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 -C 22 Esters of fatty acids,

[0154] * Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated C 12 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 18 , optionally hydrogenated fatty acid triglycerides,

[0155] * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oils esterified with fatty alcohols such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol,

[0156] * esters of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen,

[0157] *Derived from straight or branched C6-C 10 Dicarboxylic acid and diglycerol are optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C 20 Polyesters of condensed esters of monocarboxylic acids,

[0158] * a polyester obtained from an acid dimer and from at least one alcohol or polyol, the acid being unsaturated and containing from 16 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0159] * Mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, the pasty hydrocarbon-based compound(s) are chosen from:

[0161] * Vegetable butter, for example mango butter (such as that produced by Aarhuskarlshamn under the index 203), shea butter, in particular the product whose INCI name is Butyrospermum parkii Butter (such as the product marketed by Aarhuskarlshamn under the reference number ), cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; babassu butter (such as that sold by Croda under the name Babassu), and also orange wax (for example the product sold by Koster Keunen under the reference Orange Peel Wax),

[0162] *Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as a mixture of hydrogenated soybean oil, coconut kernel oil, palm oil and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example produced by Aarhuskarlshamn under the index A mixture sold under the INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, marketed by DesertWhale under the commercial reference number Trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil, manufactured or sold, such as the compound sold by Soliance under the reference number Beurrolive,

[0163] * waxes of vegetable origin, such as sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, cocoa wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon wax, laurel wax and mixtures thereof,

[0164] *Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax,

[0165] * Hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 -C 22 Esters of fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid, such as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil,

[0166] * saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, especially C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides. Mention may be made, for example, of optionally hydrogenated (completely or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, preferably C 12 -C 18 Triglycerides of fatty acids; for example, produced by Cremer Oleo under the name Softisan Sales of saturated C 12 -C 18 Glycerides of fatty acids (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides); saturated, optionally hydrogenated C 16 -C 30triglycerides of carboxylic acids; for example, mention may be made of trihydroxystearin (or trihydroxystearin), tristearin (or tristearin), tribehenin (or tribehenin), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties,

[0167] * Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oils esterified with fatty alcohols such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol. Mention may be made, for example, of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those marketed under the name Phytowax Castor by the company Sophim. and Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190. Also suitable are waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18L 57,

[0168] * Esters of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen. In particular, as ester waxes, (hydroxystearyloxy) stearic acid C 20 -C 40 Alkyl esters (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), or stearic acid C 20 -C 40 Such waxes are especially marketed by Koster Keunen under the name Kester Wax K 82 Hydroxypolyester K 82 Kester Wax K 80 Or Kester Wax K82H. You can also use C 14 -C 18 Mixtures of esters of carboxylic acids and alcohols, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from Croda, SP Crodamol MS MBAL or Crodamol MS PA from Croda, or Miraceti from Laserson.

[0169] It is also possible to use ethylene glycol montanate and butylene glycol montanate (ethylene glycol octadecanoate and butylene glycol octadecanoate), such as the waxes sold by Clariant, Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: ethylene glycol montanate).

[0170] * Natural or synthetic polyalkylene or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon-based waxes of animal or vegetable origin; the number of (C2-C4)oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. Mention may be made, by way of example, of polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba wax; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glycerides; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, acacia / jojoba / sunflower wax / polyglyceryl-3 esters mixtures, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (acacia / jojoba / sunflower wax polyglyceryl-3 esters),

[0171] * Straight or branched C6-C 10 Dicarboxylic acid and diglycerol are optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C 20 Polyesters obtained by condensation of esters of monocarboxylic acids, in particular such as those obtained by condensation of adipic acid and diglycerol with C6-C 20 Esters obtained by condensation of a mixture of fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and having the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. Compounds of this type are especially marketed by Cremer Oleo under the index 649 sales,

[0172] *Polyesters obtained from dimers of acids and from at least one alcohol or polyol, the acid being unsaturated and containing from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, for example:

[0173] - esters of glycol dimers (for example dilinoleyl alcohol) and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Dibehenyl Alcohol / Isostearyl Alcohol / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0174] - esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the esters sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd. (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl Alcohol / Stearyl Alcohol / Behenyl Alcohol Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0175] Esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the name Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Linoleate).

[0176] Preferably, the solid hydrocarbon-based compound is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C 12 -C 30 , preferably C 12 -C 18 Fatty acid triglycerides, such as hydrogenated coconut glycerides.

[0177] Advantageously, according to a first embodiment, the content of hydrocarbon-based compound solid at ambient temperature, if present, is at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and preferably between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0178] Advantageously, according to the second variant, the content of hydrocarbon-based compounds that are solid at room temperature, if present, is from less than 15% by weight, from 0% by weight (limits included) to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0% by weight to 10% by weight (limits included), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] Additional oil

[0180] Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils

[0181] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0182] The term "volatile oil" is understood to mean an oil having a vapour pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular to 13 000 Pa and preferably to 1300 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0183] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is preferably selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0184] The term "non-polar" is understood to mean hydrocarbon-based oils (hydrocarbon-type compounds) composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0185] The term "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom.

[0186] As regards the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, they are more particularly chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular:

[0187] -Branched C8-C 16 Alkanes, such as C8-C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,

[0188] - linear alkanes, such as C 11 -C 16 Alkanes, and

[0189] - mixtures thereof.

[0190] As volatile silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of polydimethylsiloxanes of viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0191] If the composition contains it, the content of volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicone oil is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously the composition does not contain any volatile oil.

[0192] Non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0193] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0194] By way of example, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from liquid paraffin, squalane, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0195] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, of apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0196] Silicone oil

[0197] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

[0198] Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may in particular be made of dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof (INCI names).

[0199] According to one embodiment of the invention, if such oil is present, its content will be less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight and advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone oil.

[0200] Water Phase

[0201] The composition according to the invention comprises water.

[0202] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by weight, in particular from 20% to 60% by weight and especially from 25% to 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] The composition may also comprise at least one monohydric alcohol containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, which is preferably saturated, such as preferably ethanol or isopropanol.

[0204] If the composition contains them, the content of monohydric alcohols ranges from 0% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0205] The composition may also optionally contain at least one 5 Pa) is a polyol that is liquid below.

[0206] The term "polyol" refers to any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).

[0207] More particularly, the liquid polyol is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C2-C8, more particularly C2-C6 hydrocarbon-based compounds containing at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Advantageously, the liquid polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol and mixtures thereof; even more advantageously, glycerol.

[0208] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one liquid polyol as defined above, its content ranges from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 20% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight and especially from 25 to 50% by weight of aqueous phase (water+C1-C5 monohydric alcohol+liquid polyol), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] Surfactants

[0211] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one nonionic or anionic, preferably hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

[0212] A person skilled in the art will be able to determine, with the aid of his general knowledge, whether it is necessary to use one or more surfactants.

[0213] As a guide, if the composition contains any surfactant, its content is from 0.01 wt% to 6 wt% relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0214] Nonionic surfactants

[0215] The choice of surfactant depends on the desired properties of the emulsion.

[0216] In particular, if an oil-in-water emulsion is envisaged, the surfactant will preferably be chosen at least from nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants or silicone surfactants having an HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) value greater than or equal to 8, and preferably at least from hydrocarbon-based surfactants, this value being within the meaning of Griffin as defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. [Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemistry] 1954 (Vol. 5), pp. 249-256.

[0217] Furthermore, if a water-in-oil emulsion is envisaged, the surfactant will preferably be selected from nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants or silicone surfactants having an HLB value (as defined above) of less than 8, or mixtures thereof.

[0218] The nonionic surfactants may in particular be chosen from (poly)oxyalkylene alcohols, (poly)oxyalkylene ethers, (poly)oxyalkylene esters, (poly)oxyalkylene or non-(poly)oxyalkylene sorbitan esters, (poly)oxyalkylene or non-(poly)oxyalkylene sorbitan ethers, alkyl (poly)glucosides, sugar esters, (poly)oxyalkylene or non-(poly)oxyalkylene glycerides, (poly)oxyalkylene or non-(poly)oxyalkylene glycerol ethers and also mixtures thereof. The term "(poly)oxyalkylene" means oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, the number of units ranging from 1 to 200.

[0219] Among (poly)oxyalkylene alcohols , you can mention:

[0220] * Polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol of R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R represents C8-C 30 Alkyl, o represents an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, in particular selected from ceteth-2, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-10, ceteth-15, ceteth-20, ceteth-23, ceteth-25, ceteth-40, isoceteth-20, laureth-2, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-12, laureth-23, oleth-2, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-23 -25, Oleth-50, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Beheneth-100, Steareth-2, Steareth-6, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-40, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Alkaneeth-3, Alkaneeth-23, C 12 -C 15 Alkyl Polyether-3, C 12 -C 13 Alkyl Polyether-4, C 12 -C 13Cocoeth-23, Cocoeth-7, Trideceth-3, Trideceth-4, Trideceth-5, Trideceth-6, Trideceth-7, Trideceth-10, Trideceth-12, Phytosterol 30EO and mixtures thereof;

[0221] * The following types of polyoxyethylene and oxyethylene alcohols: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o-(O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R represents C4-C 30 Alkyl, o and p independently of one another represent an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. Preferably, compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI names are as follows: PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-12-Buteth-16, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetraceth-30 and mixtures thereof.

[0222] Among (poly)oxyethylene esters The following types of esters of polyethylene glycol and acids are particularly suitable:

[0223] R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or

[0224] R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R or

[0225] R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qOR or

[0226] RO-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R

[0227] Where R can be the same or different, indicating saturated or unsaturated C2-C 20 A hydrocarbon group; n, p, q, average integers, which may be the same or different, ranging from 2 to 50.

[0228] They can be chosen in particular from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-7 Cocoate, PEG-8 Laurate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 Oleate, PEG-9 Cocoate, PEG-10 Oleate, PEG-20 Laurate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Laurate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate and also mixtures thereof.

[0229] As (poly)oxyalkylened or non-(poly)oxyalkylened sorbitan esters Preference is given to using those having a number of ethyleneoxy (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100, more particularly from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and also polysorbates.

[0230] As regards sorbitan esters, there may be mentioned sorbitan esters comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated C 12 -C 24 The sorbitan monoesters or polyesters of the sorbitan group are preferably monoesters, diesters or triesters. Among suitable sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan trioleate or sorbitan palmitate, and also mixtures thereof, and preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan trioleate or sorbitan palmitate, and also mixtures thereof.

[0231] Among the polysorbates (INCI names), mention may most particularly be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: polysorbate-20, polysorbate-21, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-61, polysorbate-80, polysorbate-85 and also mixtures thereof. As regards esters, mention may be made of PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate.

[0232] About Alkyl (Poly) Glucoside, preferably those containing an alkyl group comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably 6 to 18 or even 8 to 16 carbon atoms and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1 to 5 and especially 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units are used. The alkyl polyglucosides may, for example, be chosen from decyl glucoside (alkyl-C9 / C 11 - polyglucosides (1.4), for example marketed by Kao Chemicals under the name Mydol The product may be marketed by Henkel under the name Plantacare 2000 Oramix NS Products sold; Octyl / decyl glucoside, for example by Cognis under the name Plantacare KE Or by SEPPIC under the name Oramix CG Products marketed; Lauryl glucoside, for example by Henkel under the name Plantacare 1200 Or by Henkel under the name Plantaren 1200 Products marketed as Coco-Glucoside, for example by Henkel under the name Plantacare 818 Products sold; Octyl glucoside, for example by Corning under the name Plantacare 810 Products sold; and mixtures thereof.

[0233] As sugar ester Mention may be made, for example, of glucose derivatives, such as in particular polyoxyethylenated alkyl glucoses, such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters, for example compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of sucrose esters, such as those chosen from sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate or sucrose tristearate, alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or a mixture thereof.

[0234] As (poly)glycerides , you can mention:

[0235] * Glycerol and carboxylic acid or C6-C 40 , more particularly C8-C 30Polymers of optionally hydroxylated carboxylic acids, or esters of vegetable oil derivatives, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, containing from 2 to 200 oxyethylene units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene units, even more particularly from 2 to 80 oxyethylene units. These compounds are more particularly present in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or as a mixture. As examples of such esters, mention may be made of PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-10 olive glycerides, PEG-45 palm kernel glycerides, PEG-7 cocoyl glycerides, PEG-30 cocoyl glycerides, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 stearin, PEG-200 stearin, PEG-20 triisostearin, PEG-70 mango glycerides, hydrogenated palm / palm kernel oil PEG-6 esters, PEG-200 hydrogenated palm glycerides, PEG-7 cocoyl glycerides, mixtures of polyoxyethylated palm glycerides (200 EO) and polyoxyethylated coconut kernel glycerides (7 EO) and also mixtures thereof.

[0236] *Polyglycerol containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and esters of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids or carboxylic acid polymers containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or esters of polyglycerol containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and derivatives of vegetable oils, and also mixtures thereof. Preferably, compound Y is selected from nonionic polyglycerolated esters containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids or derived from vegetable oils containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acid may also contain 1 to 3 carboxyl groups, and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid. The polyglycerol compound is more particularly a monoester, a diester or a triester. More particularly, compound Y is selected from polyglycerol containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and esters of saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids or carboxylic acid polymers containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters containing 2 to 20 glycerol units and derived from vegetable oils, and also mixtures thereof. Preferably, compound Y is selected from polyglycerols comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or nonionic esters derived from vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acid may also comprise 1 to 3 carboxyl groups, and is preferably a monocarboxylic acid. The polyglycerol compound is more particularly a monoester, a diester or a triester. Examples of compound Y that may be mentioned include the following compounds designated by their INCI names: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, polyglycerolated almond oil esters containing 3 to 10 glycerol units, and also mixtures thereof.

[0237] Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol , preferably those having a number of ethyleneoxy (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30 are used. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100 and Nikkol Chimyl Alcohol 100.

[0238] More particularly, the surfactant is chosen from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0239] Anionic surfactants

[0240] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional anionic, more particularly hydrocarbon-based surfactant.

[0241] The anionic surfactant may be selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, or C 10 -C 30 Metal salts of fatty acids. More particularly, these compounds are in the form of alkali metal salts, for example in particular sodium or potassium salts, or alternatively in the form of salts of primary or secondary, in particular C2-C4 amines or alkanolamines. These compounds generally contain 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 20 carbon atoms in their longest hydrocarbon-based chain, and are saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic. They may additionally contain up to 20 oxyalkylene units, preferably up to 15 units (in particular oxyethylene units).

[0242] Colorants

[0243] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one colorant, in particular chosen from synthetic and natural colorants or colorants of natural origin.

[0244] The colorant may be selected from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

[0245] pigment

[0246] The term "pigment" means white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in the medium of the composition and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit.

[0247] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0248] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's encyclopaedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium dioxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydroxide, and iron blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders (for example aluminum powder or copper powder). The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in the form of a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0249] The size of the pigments useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range from 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0250] According to one particular form of the invention, the pigment has a size characterized by a D

[50] ranging from greater than 100 nm and possibly up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0251] These sizes were obtained using a commercial MasterSizer from Malvern. The particle size analyzer measures by static light scattering, which makes it possible to determine the size distribution of all particles over a wide range (which can extend from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm). The data are processed based on the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is best applied to size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows the determination of the "effective" particle size. This theory is described in particular in the following publication: Vande Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0252] D

[50] represents the largest dimension present at 50% by volume of the particles.

[0253] In the context of the present invention, mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. Examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as those manufactured by Miyoshi Kasei under the reference number For sale.

[0254] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of pearlescent agents.

[0255] The term "pearlescent agent" should be understood to mean any form of coloured particles (which may or may not be iridescent), especially produced by certain molluscs in their shells, or alternatively synthetically, and which have a colouring effect via optical interference.

[0256] The pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium coated with iron oxide, mica titanium coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium coated with organic dyes and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or layers of organic colorants are superimposed.

[0257] Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments or bismuth oxychloride.

[0258] The pearlescent agent may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or hue.

[0259] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having optical effects other than simple conventional coloring effects, i.e. uniform and stable effects such as those produced by conventional colorants (e.g. monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" means an effect that lacks color variability with viewing angle or in response to temperature changes.

[0260] For example, such a material may be selected from particles with a metallic hue, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromics, optical brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these different materials may be combined in order to provide two effects simultaneously, or even novel effects according to the invention.

[0261] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0262] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0263] Pigments of this type are particularly advantageous. In the case where they are treated with hydrophobic compounds, they show a predominant affinity for the oil phase which can then transport them.

[0264] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0265] For the purposes of the present invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the present invention generally means a total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant which absorbs, adsorbs or grafts onto the pigment.

[0266] The surface treated pigments can be prepared according to chemical, electrical, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0267] Surfactants can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and covalent bond formation.

[0268] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in applying a pigment.

[0269] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0270] The coating can be produced, for example, by absorbing a liquid surfactant onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing the particles with said surfactant under stirring, optionally with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the cosmetic or care composition.

[0271] The coating can be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and formation of covalent bonds between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

[0272] Chemical surface treatment may include diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in the mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0273] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, said coating is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0274] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactant; fluorine surfactant; fluorosilicone surfactant; metal soap; N-acyl amino acid or its salt; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal wax; polar synthetic wax; fatty ester; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0275] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the pigment may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0276] According to another particular embodiment, the colorant is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0277] The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. The organic pigment can especially be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindolinone, quinacridone, peronone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.

[0278] The organic pigments may be selected, for example, from the following: carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, green pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments indexed in the Color Index with the numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470 red pigments included in the color index, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0279] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may especially consist of particles comprising a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0280] The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means an insoluble dye adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0281] Mineral substrates onto which the dye is adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

[0282] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal red. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090).

[0283] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0284] The pigment is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight and even more particularly at least 2% by weight relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the colorant content is less than 50% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 30% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

[0286] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the colorant is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

[0287] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or in a solvent miscible with water and which is capable of coloring.

[0288] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble colorant" means any natural or synthetic, usually organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in a solvent miscible with an oily phase and which is capable of imparting color.

[0289] As water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, mention may especially be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1.

[0290] Among the natural water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of anthocyanins.

[0291] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, there may be mentioned, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red and Sudan Brown.

[0292] As illustration of natural fat-soluble dyes, mention may in particular be made of: carotenes, for example β-carotene, α-carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls, such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, ranunculaxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, taxoxanthin, ruboxanthin, fusaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinazins (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinolizine Green SS) and chlorophyll.

[0293] The water-soluble or liposoluble dyes are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a content of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.02% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] Thickener

[0295] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase thickener and / or at least one lipophilic phase thickener.

[0296] Water phase thickener

[0297] As examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

[0298] * acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or their salts and esters, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by Allied Colloid and under the name Ultrahold 8 by BASF; and polyacrylic acids of the Synthalen K type, and salts of polyacrylic acid, in particular the sodium salt (corresponding to the INCI name Sodium Acrylates Copolymer), and more particularly crosslinked sodium polyacrylate sold under the name Luvigel EM by BASF (corresponding to the INCI name Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride),

[0299] * copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide in the form of their sodium salts, sold under the name Reten by Hercules; sodium polymethacrylate, sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by Vanderbilt; and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, sold under the name Hydagen F by Henkel,

[0300] * Polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, especially with acrylate / acrylic acid C 10 -C 30 - Copolymer of alkyl esters (INCI name: Acrylates / Acrylate C 10 -C 30 alkyl ester crosspolymers), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol EDT 2020 and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2,

[0301] * Polyacrylamide methylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked, marketed by Clariant,

[0302] *Acrylamidepropanesulfonic acid / acrylamide copolymers of the Sepigel or Simulgel type sold by Seppic,

[0303] * Polyoxyethylenated acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the Aristoflex HMS type sold by Clariant,

[0304] * copolymers of hydroxyalkyl acrylic acid or its salt and acryloyldimethyltaurate monomers, such as the product Sepinov EMT 10 sold by Seppic,

[0305] * and mixtures thereof.

[0306] Other examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers that may be mentioned include:

[0307] * Anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

[0308] * cellulose polymers, for example alkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;

[0309] *vinyl polymers, for example polyvinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

[0310] * optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as galactomannans and derivatives thereof, for example konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, foenum-graecum gum, karaya gum, tragacanth gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;

[0311] *Alginate and carrageenan;

[0312] * and mixtures thereof.

[0313] If the composition contains it, the content of the aqueous phase thickener ranges from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight and more advantageously from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] Hydrophobic phase thickener

[0315] As hydrophobic phase thickeners, mention may more particularly be made of hydrophobic mineral thickeners, such as modified clays, modified silicas, or mixtures thereof.

[0316] Hydrophobically modified clay

[0317] Clays are silicates containing cations which may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

[0318] As examples of such products, mention may be made of clays of the montmorillonite group and also of the vermiculite, saponite or chlorite group. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0319] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite or sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably bentonite or hectorite.

[0320] These clays are modified with compounds selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates or amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0321] Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified with quaternary amines, more particularly of C 10 To C 22Fatty acid ammonium halide such as chloride (containing or not containing aromatic groups) modified, such as hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium halide, preferably chloride (CTFA name: disteardimethylammonium hectorite), such as those sold under the names Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorites, such as in particular the product Bentone 27V.

[0322] Mention may also be made of quaternary ammonium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the name Bentone 34 by Hemmings, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternary ammonium-18 / benzalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by Southern Clay.

[0323] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular modified with benzyldimethylstearylammonium halide or distearyldimethylammonium halide, in particular ammonium chloride modified.

[0324] Modified silica

[0325] Mention may also be made of fumed silicas which have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment on the surface, the size of the particles of which is advantageously less than 1 μm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by a chemical reaction which produces a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, the silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be:

[0326] *Trimethylsiloxy, which is obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. According to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995), silicas treated in this way are called silylated silicas (Silica Silylate). They are sold, for example, by Degussa under the reference number Aerosil and Cab-O-Sil Sale,

[0327] *Dimethylsiloxy or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or dimethyldichlorosilane. According to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995), silicas treated in this way are called "silica dimethylsilylates". They are marketed, for example, by Degussa under the reference number Aerosil and Aerosil and Cab-O-Sil and Cab-O-Sil Sale.

[0328] The hydrophobic fumed silica particularly has a particle size that may be nanometer-sized to micrometer-sized, for example ranging from about 5 nm to 200 nm.

[0329] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least silica aerogel particles.

[0330] Silica aerogel is a porous material obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air.

[0331] They are usually synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used supercritical fluid being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of pores and materials. The sol-gel process and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science [Sol-Gel Science], New York, Academic Press [Academic Press], 1990.

[0332] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for practicing the present invention exhibit a range of 500 to 1500 μm. 2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200m 2 / g and better still 600 to 800m 2 The specific surface area per unit weight (S M ), and sizes expressed as volume average diameters (D[0.5]) in the range of 1 to 1500 μm, better still 1 to 1000 μm, preferably 1 to 100 μm, in particular 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, better still 5 to 20 μm and even better still 5 to 15 μm.

[0333] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a diameter in the range of 600 to 800 m 2The specific surface area per unit weight (S M ) and a size denoted as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even better still from 5 to 15 μm.

[0334] The specific surface area per unit weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Bruno-Emmett-Teller) method, which is described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles under consideration.

[0335] The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine the "effective" particle size in the case of non-spherical particles. The theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0336] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a particle size ranging from 5 to 60 μm. 2 / cm 3 , preferably 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 And also better 15 to 40m 2 / cm 3 The specific surface area per unit volume S V .

[0337] The aerogel used according to the invention is a hydrophobic silica aerogel, preferably an aerogel of silyl silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0338] Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

[0339] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used.

[0340] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogels sold by the company Dow Corning under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a diameter ranging from 600 to 800 microns. 2 / g of specific surface area per unit mass.

[0341] Mention may also be made of the products manufactured by Cabot Corporation under the reference numbers Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Aerogels are sold as Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

[0342] It will be preferred to use an aerogel sold by the company Dow Corning under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATED), the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a particle size ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g of specific surface area per unit mass.

[0343] Preferably, the mineral thickener is chosen from organophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobically treated fumed silicas; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly still at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobically modified silica, in particular an organophilic modified clay.

[0344] More particularly, if the composition contains a hydrophobic phase thickener, the content of hydrophobic phase thickener expressed as active material represents 0.2% to 2.5% by weight and preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0345] Throughout the specification (including the claims), the expression "comprising one / a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one / a", unless otherwise specified.

[0346] The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” should be understood as meaning that the limit values ​​are included, unless otherwise specified.

[0347] Furthermore, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition accounts for 100% by weight of the composition.

[0348] The present invention is explained in more detail by means of the examples presented below.

[0349] Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as weight percent of the starting material.

[0350] Starting materials are referred to by their chemical name or their INCI name.

[0351] Examples

[0352] Example 1

[0353] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0354] [Table 1]

[0355]

[0356] program

[0357] Follow these steps:

[0358] 1. Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0359] 2. Add xanthan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0360] 3. The dye dissolved in water (Composition 1) is then introduced or sprinkled onto the mixture (Composition A) and stirring is carried out for 15 minutes.

[0361] 4. Furthermore, liquid ester (Lipovol MOS-70) and candelilla resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was homogeneous, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0362] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring (1200 rpm). The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - reference number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0363] Solutions for evaluating durability and anti-fall properties:

[0364] 1. Sample Preparation

[0365] An area of ​​2 cm x 2 cm on the inside of the forearm is made-up with the composition by applying 4 layers without re-dipping the applicator into the bottle.

[0366] The operation was repeated in order to have four cosmetic samples (one control sample and 3 samples to be tested: water, oil, transfer).

[0367] Allow the product to dry for 30 minutes.

[0368] 2. Water resistance The evaluation is carried out once on the surface of the first sample by passing cotton wool, soaked in 1 ml of water. The colour of the deposit thus treated is compared with that of the control deposit.

[0369] 3. Oil resistance Evaluation was carried out once on the surface of a second sample by passing cotton wool, soaked in 0.5 ml of olive oil (application force similar to that of water resistance). The colour of the deposit thus treated was compared with that of the control deposit.

[0370] 4. Prevent makeup from falling off Evaluation was performed by pressing a tissue onto the third sample and by observing the amount of lipstick deposited on the tissue.

[0371] Evaluation of the composition:

[0372] In each case, a stable, homogeneous liquid composition was obtained.

[0373] The composition applies easily to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit which is only very slightly tacky and it does not migrate.

[0374] It should be noted that in the case of the compositions according to the invention, the coverage and the intensity of the color are greater.

[0375] The composition does not fall off makeup.

[0376] However, it should be noted that the water and oil resistance of the composition according to the invention is significantly improved compared to the comparative composition.

[0377] Example 2

[0378] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0379] [Table 2]

[0380]

[0381]

[0382] program

[0383] Follow these steps:

[0384] 1. Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0385] 2. Add xanthan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0386] 3. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0387] 4. Furthermore, neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin or myristoyl pullulan were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was homogeneous, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0388] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0389] Evaluation of composition

[0390] The composition obtained was a homogeneous and stable liquid.

[0391] Each composition applies easily to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit which is only very slightly tacky and which does not migrate. The deposit is intense and covering.

[0392] Unlike the comparative composition, the composition according to the invention does not fall off (regimen defined in Example 1).

[0393] It should also be noted that the durability properties of the composition according to the invention with respect to water and oil are significantly improved (scheme defined in Example 1).

[0394] Example 3

[0395] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0396] [Table 3]

[0397]

[0398] program

[0399] Follow these steps:

[0400] 1. Octyldodecanol and Candelilla resin or Salicornia resin were mixed at 85°C with stirring. Once the mixture was homogenous, VP / eicosene copolymer was added, and then Softisan 100 was added while maintaining stirring. Once the mixture was homogenized, it was cooled to 55°C and then added to the dispersion of ethylcellulose.

[0401] 2. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0402] 3. Furthermore, neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin or sauvignon blanc resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was uniform, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0403] 4. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0404] Evaluation of composition

[0405] The resulting composition was a homogeneous and stable liquid.

[0406] They are easy to apply to the lips. The deposit is fine, has a fresh feel when applied, is only very slightly tacky and does not migrate.

[0407] The deposits are non-fading and they exhibit very good water and oil resistance (protocol defined in Example 1).

[0408] Example 4

[0409] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0410] [Table 4]

[0411]

[0412]

[0413] program

[0414] Follow these steps:

[0415] 1. Octyldodecanol and Candelilla resin were mixed at 85°C with stirring. Once the mixture was homogenous, Softisan 100 was added, and then VP / eicosene copolymer was added while maintaining stirring. Once the mixture was homogenized, it was cooled to 55°C and then added to the dispersion of ethylcellulose heated to 55°C.

[0416] 3. Polysorbate 80 was added, the whole mixture was then emulsified for 15 minutes, and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature with stirring.

[0417] 4. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirring was carried out for 15 minutes. The mixture was then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0418] Evaluation of composition

[0419] Compositions C and 5 were liquid, homogeneous and stable compositions, whereas phase separation occurred in composition D and the composition could not be applied.

[0420] Compositions C and 5 are easy to apply to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit which is only very slightly tacky and which does not migrate. The deposit is non-smearing (protocol defined in Example 1).

[0421] Composition 5 according to the invention exhibits significantly improved water and oil resistance compared to comparative composition C (scheme defined in example 1).

[0422] Example 5

[0423] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0424] [Table 5]

[0425]

[0426] program

[0427] Follow these steps:

[0428] 1. Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0429] 2. Add xanthan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0430] 3. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0431] 4. Furthermore, neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was homogeneous, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0432] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0433] Evaluation of composition

[0434] A stable, homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0435] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit, it is only very slightly tacky, it does not migrate and it does not fall out (recipe of Example 1).

[0436] It should be noted that hiding power, color strength, and water and oil resistance are very good (the solution of Example 1).

[0437] Example 6

[0438] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0439] [Table 6]

[0440]

[0441]

[0442] program

[0443] Follow these steps:

[0444] 1. Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0445] 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0446] 3. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0447] 4. Furthermore, neopentyl dicaprate and candelilla resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was homogeneous, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0448] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0449] Evaluation of composition

[0450] A stable, homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0451] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit, it is only very slightly tacky, it does not migrate and it does not fall out (recipe of Example 1).

[0452] It should be noted that hiding power, color strength, and water and oil resistance are very good (the solution of Example 1).

[0453] Example 7

[0454] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0455] [Table 7]

[0456]

[0457] program

[0458] Follow these steps:

[0459] 1. Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0460] 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0461] 3. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0462] 4. Furthermore, dicaprylyl ether and candelilla resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was homogeneous, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0463] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0464] Evaluation of composition

[0465] A stable, homogeneous liquid composition is obtained.

[0466] The composition is easily applied to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit, it is only very slightly tacky, it does not migrate and it does not fall out (recipe of Example 1).

[0467] It should be noted that hiding power, color strength, and water and oil resistance are very good (the solution of Example 1).

[0468] Comparative Example 8

[0469] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0470] [Table 8]

[0471]

[0472]

[0473] program

[0474] Follow these steps:

[0475] 1. VP / eicosene copolymer and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0476] 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0477] 3. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0478] 4. Furthermore, neopentyl glycol and candelilla resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was homogeneous, cetyl alcohol was added thereto with stirring.

[0479] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0480] Evaluation of composition

[0481] A composition is obtained which is homogeneous but not too thick to be applied evenly.

[0482] Example 9

[0483] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0484] [Table 9]

[0485]

[0486]

[0487] program

[0488] Follow these steps:

[0489] 1. Softisan 100 and octyldodecanol were mixed at 60°C, and then the mixture was poured into the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, stirring at 1200 rpm for 10 minutes using a Rayneri deflocculator.

[0490] 2. Add gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes.

[0491] 3. The dye dissolved in water was then introduced and stirred for 15 minutes.

[0492] 4. Furthermore, dicaprylyl ether and candelilla resin were mixed, and the resulting mixture was heated at 85° C. Once the mixture was uniform, cetyl alcohol was added thereto under stirring. In the case of the comparative composition, trimethylsiloxysilicate was added thereto.

[0493] 5. When the formulation is homogeneous, it is cooled to 55°C and poured onto the mixture obtained at the end of step 3. The entire mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool to ambient temperature under stirring. The mixture is then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocking applicator - index number 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0494] Evaluation of composition

[0495] In each case, a stable, homogeneous liquid composition was obtained.

[0496] Each composition applies easily to the lips as a fine and fresh deposit, which is only very slightly tacky, which does not migrate and which does not fall off (recipe of Example 1).

[0497] It should be noted, however, that in the case of the compositions according to the invention the hiding power and the intensity of the color are significantly greater.

[0498] Furthermore, the water and oil resistance is significantly greater in the case of the composition according to the invention (scheme of Example 1).

[0499] Example 10

[0500] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0501] [Table 10]

[0502]

[0503]

[0504] program

[0505] In one aspect, capric / caprylic triglyceride, Softisan 100, and a portion of octyldodecanol are mixed at 55°C with stirring, and the mixture is then added to Aquacoat ECD at 55°C with stirring.

[0506] Gellan gum was added and stirring was continued for 30 minutes.

[0507] Finally, sucrose laurate was added and stirring was maintained for 45 minutes.

[0508] On the other hand, the remaining octyldodecanol is mixed with the N7 ethylcellulose at 55°C, stirring until a gel is obtained. In the case where the composition comprises a candelilla resin, the remaining portion of the octyldodecanol is mixed with the N7 ethylcellulose at 90°C under stirring, and then the candelilla resin is introduced, still under stirring, until a homogeneous product is obtained. The mixture is cooled to 60°C.

[0509] The resulting gel was added to the mixture obtained above under stirring at 55°C for 30 minutes (1300 rpm).

[0510] The dye is then introduced at 45° C. with stirring, followed by the preservative.

[0511] The mixture was then packaged in lip gloss bottles (bottles equipped with flocked applicator - index 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0512] Evaluation of composition

[0513] In each case, a homogeneous, stable liquid composition was obtained.

[0514] Each composition applies easily to the lips with a fine and fresh deposit that does not migrate and which is only very slightly tacky.

[0515] The composition does not fall off makeup.

[0516] It should further be noted that, compared to comparative composition G, the water and oil resistance of composition 10 according to the invention is significantly improved.

[0517] Example 11

[0518] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0519] [Table 11]

[0520]

[0521]

[0522] program

[0523] Neopentyl glycol dicaprate, octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol, candelilla resin were mixed at 80°C with stirring, then the mixture was cooled to 55°C and added to Aquacoat ECD at 55°C with stirring.

[0524] Gellan gum was added and stirring was continued for 30 minutes.

[0525] The dye is then introduced with stirring. The mixture is cooled to 30° C. and the preservative is then added.

[0526] The mixture was allowed to cool and packaged in lip gloss type bottles (bottles equipped with flocked applicator - index 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0527] Evaluation of composition

[0528] A homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.

[0529] It is easy to apply to the lips with a fine and fresh deposit which is only very slightly tacky. The deposit does not migrate.

[0530] It was also observed that the deposit was non-fading and the water and oil resistance of the composition was very good (recipe of Example 1).

[0531] Example 12

[0532] In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given as weight percent per weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight of the starting material).

[0533] [Table 12]

[0534]

[0535]

[0536] program

[0537] In one aspect, capric / caprylic triglyceride, Softisan 100, and a portion of octyldodecanol are mixed at 55°C with stirring, and the mixture is then added to Aquacoat ECD at 55°C with stirring.

[0538] Xanthan gum was added and stirring continued for 30 minutes.

[0539] Finally, sucrose laurate was added and stirring was maintained for 45 minutes.

[0540] The remaining portion of octyldodecanol was mixed with N7 ethylcellulose at 90°C under stirring, and then the candelilla resin was introduced, still under stirring, until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. The mixture was cooled to 60°C.

[0541] The resulting gel was added to the mixture obtained above under stirring at 55°C for 30 minutes (1300 rpm).

[0542] The dye is then introduced at 45° C. with stirring, followed by the preservative.

[0543] The mixture was allowed to cool and packaged in lip gloss type bottles (bottles equipped with flocked applicator - index 14030, Geka GmbH).

[0544] Evaluation of composition

[0545] A homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.

[0546] It is easy to apply to the lips with a fine and fresh deposit which is only very slightly tacky. The deposit does not migrate.

[0547] It was also observed that the deposit was non-fading and the water and oil resistance of the composition was very good (recipe of Example 1).

Claims

1. A liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising: - 4% to 25% by weight of ethylcellulose, expressed as active material, relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one natural resin; - at least one first non-volatile oil which is liquid at 25°C and is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 10 -C 26 Fatty alcohols; at least one hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester function, which is solid at ambient temperature; at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, which is liquid at ambient temperature, different from said first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils; or mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that The content of ethylcellulose expressed as active material is from 5% to 20% by weight, still more preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein The at least one resin is selected from the group consisting of: a) grass resin, b) amber, c) asphaltite and black bitumen, d) Peru balsam, e) tolu balsam, f) benzoin resin, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resin, i) dammar resin, j) elemi resin, k) frankincense, l) white rosin, m) labdanum, n) mastic resin, o) myrrh, p) sandarac, q) shellac, r) styrax, s) Venetian turpentine, t) rosin, in particular rosin and rosin esters and tall oil, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures of these resins; preferably, the natural resin is selected from the group consisting of frankincense resin and resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures thereof; the resin may be esterified, salified, adducted, phenol-modified, dimerized and / or hydrogenated.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one resin whose INCI name includes at least one of the following terms: Candelilla wax extract, Candelilla wax extract, Aesculus hippocastanum resin, Sphaerocarpa scabra resin; and mixtures thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The resin contains at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% by weight of terpene compounds, even more preferably at least 60% by weight of terpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The resin comprises at least 10 wt.-%, preferably at least 20 wt.-%, preferably at least 30 wt.-%, preferably at least 35 wt.-% of polyterpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The resin contains less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin accounting for 100% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total weight of the resin.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The resin has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10 000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 10 000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 5000 g / mol, better still less than or equal to 2000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 2000 g / mol and even better still less than or equal to 1000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 250 to 1000 g / mol.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The resin has a glass transition temperature preferably in the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably 30°C to 70°C.

10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The resin has a softening point preferably in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably 40°C to 90°C.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The content of natural resins represents 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight and even more preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The first oil is selected from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; preferably, the first oil is octyldodecanol.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The content of the first oil ranges from 0.5% to less than 20% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that The content of the first oil ranges from 20% to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The at least one second hydrocarbon-based oil, which is liquid at ambient temperature, is chosen from: * an ether of the formula ROR' or a carbonate of the formula RO(CO)OR', in which the R and R' radicals, whether identical or not, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based radical containing up to 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C 16 Group; *Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; * optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, wherein at least one ester function is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; *Liquid polyesters derived from the reaction of dimers of monounsaturated or polyunsaturated acids; the fatty acids contain from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * and mixtures thereof.

16. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The content of the second oil, if it is contained in the composition, ranges from 2% to 35% by weight and more particularly from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The hydrocarbon-based compound having an ester function, which is solid at ambient temperature, is chosen from: * Vegetable fat, *Fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, * Vegetable wax, *Beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, * Hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 -C 22 Esters of fatty acids, * saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C 12 -C 30 Fatty acid triglycerides. * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oils esterified with fatty alcohols, such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, * esters of the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 and R2 represent a linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain, in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, * natural or synthetic polyalkylene or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon-based waxes of animal or vegetable origin; the number of (C2-C4)oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, and the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20, *Derived from straight or branched C6-C 10 Polyesters of condensation of dicarboxylic acids and diglycerol with esters of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C6-C20 monocarboxylic acids, *Polyesters obtained from dimers of acids and from at least one alcohol or polyol, the acid being unsaturated and containing from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, for example: * Mixtures thereof.

18. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that The hydrocarbon-based compound, which is solid at ambient temperature, is selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C 12 -C 18 Fatty acid triglycerides.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, 15 to 18, characterized in that The content of hydrocarbon-based compound that is solid at ambient temperature is at least 15% by weight, more particularly at least 20% by weight and preferably between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, 14 to 18, characterized in that The content of solid hydrocarbon compounds at ambient temperature, if the composition contains them, is from 0% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 0% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The water content ranges from 20% to 60% by weight and more particularly ranges from 25% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition optionally comprises at least one C1-C5, preferably saturated, monoalcohol, more particularly in a content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition optionally comprises at least one polyol that is liquid at 15° C. and atmospheric pressure, chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C8, more particularly C3-C6 hydrocarbon-based compounds, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more particularly in a content ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition, if it contains it, has a content of non-volatile silicone oil less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight and advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition, if it contains it, has a content of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

26. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition - if it contains it - has a content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil ranging from 0% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and is advantageously free of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

27. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition comprises at least one colorant, in particular chosen from pigments, dyes and mixtures thereof.

28. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that The composition is in the form of a direct (oil-in-water) emulsion.

29. A method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips and preferably the lips, comprising applying a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

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