Compositions for caring for keratin materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising: (i) neohesperidin dihydrochalcone; (ii) at least one C-glycoside; and (iii) at least one carnosine compound. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for a keratin material comprising applying said composition to a keratin material.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the present invention relates to compositions for the care of keratin materials. The present invention also relates to non-therapeutic methods for the care of keratin materials. Background Art

[0002] The skin is the body's protective barrier. It protects the body's interior from physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

[0003] The development of formulations dedicated to the care of the skin is ongoing.

[0004] It is also known to use active ingredients in cosmetic products to treat or care for the skin, such as cleansing, hydration, providing skin barrier, anti-aging, pore minimization, etc. Among them, providing skin barrier and anti-aging always interest consumers all over the world.

[0005] However, there are no such cosmetic products that can effectively provide skin barrier repair and anti-aging effects.

[0006] There is a need for cosmetic products that can provide skin barrier repair and anti-aging effects. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0008] The present inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions which provide both skin barrier repair and anti-aging benefits.

[0009] Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:

[0010] (i) neohesperidin dihydrochalcone;

[0011] (ii) at least one C-glycoside selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (I), and their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers:

[0012]

[0013] in:

[0014] -R represents saturation C1 to C 10 , in particular C1 to C4 alkyl, which may optionally be substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl,

[0015] -S represents a mono- or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, which are in the pyranose and / or furanose form and are of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by hydroxyl groups, which must be free, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functions, and

[0016] -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- groups, and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group,

[0017] The S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be α or β; and

[0018] (iii) at least one carnosine compound.

[0019] The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention performs significantly better in anti-aging related attributes, such as improved skin firmness, and exhibits a much lower transepidermal water loss, which represents a better skin barrier function.

[0020] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, which comprises applying to the keratin material a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0021] Other advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the following description and examples. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0023] Implementation of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

[0024] Figure 1 The sensory characteristics of the compositions of Example 5 of the present invention and Comparative Example 3 are shown, wherein the solid line represents the composition of Example 5 of the present invention, and the dotted line represents the composition of Comparative Example 3. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0026] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs. When the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the invention belongs, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0027] In the following text and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the numerical ranges are included in the range, particularly in the expressions "between . . . and . . ." and " . . . to . . ."

[0028] In addition, the expression "at least one" used in this specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0029] Throughout this application, the term "comprises / comprising / containing" is interpreted as covering all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprises / comprising / containing" also discloses embodiments in which features other than the specifically mentioned features are not present (i.e., "consisting of...").

[0030] Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values ​​expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as modified by the term “about.” Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values ​​and parameters set forth herein are approximations that can vary as required depending on the desired purpose.

[0031] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. The facial skin is most particularly contemplated according to the present invention.

[0032] Unless otherwise specified, all percentages in the present invention are by weight.

[0033] According to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising:

[0034] (i) neohesperidin dihydrochalcone;

[0035] (ii) at least one C-glycoside; and

[0036] (iii) at least one carnosine compound.

[0037] Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone

[0038] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

[0039] Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone (DHC) is a natural oxygen polyphenol with high antioxidant potential over a very broad spectrum of several free radical species, which can act on three cellular targets: membrane, nucleus and cytoplasm.

[0040] Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone (DHC) is part of the dihydrochalcone family, which is part of the flavonoid class. Neohesperidin DHC is a glycosylated flavonoid with the following structure:

[0041]

[0042] It is also known by its following IUPAC name: 1-(4-((2-O-[6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl]-β-D-glucopyranosyl)oxy)-2,6-dihydroxyphenyl)-3-[3-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl]-1-propanone.

[0043] Neohesperidin DHC (CAS No. 20702-77-6) can be obtained in particular from neohesperidin, which can be extracted from bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), or from naringin, which can be obtained from grapefruit (Citrus paradisii). The synthesis from the extracted neohesperidin involves hydrogenation under alkaline conditions in the presence of a catalyst. The synthesis from naringin is based on its conversion to obtain radix acetophenone-4'-β-neohesperidin, which can be condensed with isovanillin (3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde) to produce neohesperidin (see the following references: Borrego, F. Sweeteners (3rd edition), 2007, 67-77 and Borrego, F; Montijano, H. Food Science and Technology, 2001, 112 (Alternatives Sweeteners), 87-104).

[0044] Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is available inter alia from HEALTHTECH BIOACTIVES (FERRER) under the commercial reference Neohesperidin DC.

[0045] Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone may exist in the form of a hydrate.

[0046] Advantageously, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0047] C-glycoside

[0048] According to a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside selected from compounds of formula (I), as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers:

[0049]

[0050] in:

[0051] -R represents saturation C1 to C 10, in particular C1 to C4 alkyl, which may optionally be substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl,

[0052] -S represents a mono- or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, which are in the pyranose and / or furanose form and are of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by hydroxyl groups, which must be free, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functions, and

[0053] -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- groups, and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group,

[0054] The S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be α or β; and

[0055] The C-glycosides useful in the practice of the invention are in particular those in which R represents a saturated linear C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2 alkyl, and more preferably methyl.

[0056] Among the alkyl radicals suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0057] According to one embodiment of the invention, C-glycosides corresponding to formula (I) can be used, in which S can represent a mono- or polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, which are in the pyranose and / or furanose form and are of the L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide presenting at least one hydroxyl function, which must be free, and / or optionally one or more amine functions, which must be protected, and X and R otherwise retain all the definitions given above.

[0058] Advantageously, the monosaccharide of the present invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and advantageously represents D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0059] More particularly, the polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 saccharide units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid and a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose, which may advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobiose, xylotriose, xylotetrose, xylopentaose and xylohexose, and in particular xylobiose, which comprises two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0060] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0061] Preferably, C-glycosides of formula (I) are used, wherein:

[0062] -R represents an unsubstituted straight-chain C1-C4, in particular C1-C2 alkyl group, especially a methyl group;

[0063] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and is particularly selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0064] -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group.

[0065] The acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of the compounds, such as those formed by organic or inorganic acids. For example, salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, can be mentioned. Salts of organic acids that may contain one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphonic acid groups can also be mentioned. In particular, propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid can be mentioned.

[0066] When the compound of formula (I) contains acid groups, the neutralization of the acid groups can be carried out with an inorganic base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, for example a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. The primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore contain, for example, one or more alcohol functions; in particular, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0067] Acceptable solvates of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of the preparation of the compounds due to the presence of a solvent. By way of example, solvates due to the presence of water or a linear or branched alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol can be mentioned.

[0068] Of course, according to the invention, the C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycosides and in any ratio.

[0069] The C-glycosides suitable for the present invention are obtainable in particular by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0070] As non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds:

[0071] -C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0072] -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one,

[0073] -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane,

[0074] -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane,

[0075] -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0076] -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0077] -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0078] -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0079] -1-(C-β-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0080] -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0081] -1-(C-β-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0082] -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0083] -1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0084] -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0085] -1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0086] -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0087] -1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0088] -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0089] -1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0090] -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0091] -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0092] -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0093] -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0094] -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

[0095] According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of the composition according to the invention.

[0096] According to one specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) provided as a solution containing 70% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

[0097] Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 25%, preferably from 0.01% to 15% and more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Carnosine compounds

[0099] According to a first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one carnosine compound.

[0100] Preferably, the carnosine compound is selected from the compound of formula (II), or a salt thereof

[0101]

[0102] wherein R1 represents H or CH3, and R2 represents H or COOH.

[0103] According to the present invention, the salt of the compound of formula (II) is preferably a salt of the compound of formula (II) with an inorganic acid, in particular a salt of formula (III):

[0104]

[0105] wherein n represents 1, 2 or 3, and A represents HCl or HNO3, and R1 represents H or CH3, and R2 represents H or COOH.

[0106] The carnosine compounds which can be used in the composition according to the invention are known and can be obtained by conventional methods of organic chemistry.

[0107] More preferably, the carnosine compound is selected from the group consisting of carnosine, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, D / L-carnosine, carnicine, carnicine HCl salt, anserine, D-anserine, L-anserine, L-anserine HNO3 salt, and combinations thereof.

[0108] As commercial products of carnosine, there can be mentioned PN 844033 is a product available from Symrise.

[0109] Advantageously, the carnosine compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Unexpectedly, the present inventors have discovered that the combination of neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, C-glycoside and carnosine compounds produces a significant synergistic effect on skin barrier repair and anti-aging effects.

[0111] Anti-redness active ingredients

[0112] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an anti-redness active ingredient.

[0113] As examples of anti-redness active ingredients, mention may be madecassoside, saccharideisomerate, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract, peppermint extract, leontopodium alpinum extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, Boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) white water lily extract.

[0114] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one anti-redness active ingredient selected from madecassoside, hydrophilic magnetite, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, olive (olive) leaf extract, peppermint extract, alpine edelweiss extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, Boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) white water lily extract, and combinations thereof.

[0115] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises an extract of Leontopodium alpinum, in particular an extract of callus culture of Leontopodium alpinum as an anti-red active ingredient.

[0116] If present, the anti-redness active ingredient is advantageously present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% and more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] Truffle Extract

[0118] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a truffle extract.

[0119] Truffle is the common name given to the edible fruiting body of an ectomycorrhizal Ascomycete fungus, which takes a generally spherical form. The fungus can produce several species of truffles.

[0120] The truffle that can be used in the context of the present invention is preferably a truffle of the genus Tuber of the Tuberaceae family in the order Pezizales. There are more than one hundred species thereof. Among the latter, mention may be made in particular of the black (Périgord) truffle (Tuber melanosporum), the white (Piedmont) truffle (Tuber magnatum), the white (summer) truffle (Tuber aestivum), the winter truffle (Tuber Brumale), the bianchetto truffle (Tuber borchii), or the Chinese truffle (Tuber sinensis and Tuber indicum).

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the truffle used in the context of the present invention is chosen from white truffles and black truffles. According to a preferred embodiment, the truffle used in the context of the present invention is a black (Périgord) truffle (Tuber melanosporum), a white (summer) truffle (Tuber solani), or a mixture of the two.

[0122] In the context of the present invention, the truffle extract may be obtained from the extraction solvent in particular by using an extraction technique selected from extraction techniques known in the art.

[0123] Typically, the extraction solvent is selected from water, water-soluble or water-miscible solvents (hydrophilic solvents), and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Among the hydrophilic solvents, mention may especially be made of substantially linear or branched lower monohydric alcohols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butanediol, propanediol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0125] When the extraction solvent is water, the truffle extract is considered aqueous.

[0126] When the extraction solvent is a substantially straight-chain or branched lower monohydric alcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, the truffle extract is considered alcoholic.

[0127] When the extraction solvent is a polyol, the truffle extract is considered to be glycolic.

[0128] When the extraction solvent is a mixture of water and one or more substantially straight-chain or branched lower monohydric alcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, the extract is considered to be aqueous-alcoholic.

[0129] When the extraction solvent is a mixture of water and one or more polyols, the extract is considered to be aqueous-glycolic.

[0130] In the context of the present invention, the truffle extract is obtained from an extraction solvent comprising water. The truffle extract is then aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or aqueous-glycolic. Preferably, the truffle extract is aqueous or aqueous-glycolic.

[0131] If present, the truffle extract is advantageously present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% and more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] Salvia miltiorrhiza extract

[0133] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a Salvia miltiorrhiza extract.

[0134] Various extracts of Danshen have obvious antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, the extracts of Danshen have antioxidant and anti-aging effects.

[0135] Danshen extract contains many components. The Danshen extract in the present invention contains tanshinone II A, danshensu and salvianolic acid, and the weight percentage of tanshinone II A is 1-60%, the weight percentage of danshensu is 1-60%, and the weight percentage of salvianolic acid is 1-60%; preferably, the weight percentage of tanshinone II A is 20-40%, the weight percentage of danshensu is 20-40%, and the weight percentage of salvianolic acid is 20-40%.

[0136] In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include a Salvia miltiorrhiza extract, particularly a Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract.

[0137] If present, advantageously, the Danshen extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.01% to 5% and more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] Water Phase

[0139] The compositions of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

[0140] The aqueous phase comprises water.

[0141] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises (at room temperature 25° C.) a water-miscible organic solvent selected from diols and polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, to provide a hydrating effect.

[0142] If present, the water-miscible organic solvent chosen from diols and polyols is advantageously present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention comprises water and glycerol.

[0144] If present, the aqueous phase is advantageously present in the composition of the invention in an amount ranging from 70% to 99.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Fat phase

[0146] The composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase.

[0147] The fatty phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0148] The term "oil" refers to a water-immiscible, non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0149] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0150] The term "non-volatile" means that the vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is not zero and is less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13Pa) of oil.

[0151] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating in less than one hour on contact with the skin at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

[0152] The fatty phase suitable for preparing a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition, may comprise a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil or a non-fluorinated oil, or a mixture thereof.

[0153] They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0154] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0155] The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

[0156] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to oils containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0157] The oil may optionally contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.

[0158] If present, the fatty phase is advantageously present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0160] In addition to the cosmetically active ingredients mentioned above, the compositions of the present invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetically active ingredients.

[0161] As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, mention may be made of vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide) and derivatives (especially esters) of the said vitamins and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; sunscreens; extracts from algae, fungi, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; other moisturizers, such as hydroxyethyl urea, agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] A person skilled in the art can easily adjust the amount of additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the invention.

[0163] Additional adjuvants or additives

[0164] The compositions of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, such as fragrances, preservatives (e.g., chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, surfactants, pH adjusters (e.g., citric acid), thickeners such as xanthan gum and acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0165] A person skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to negatively affect the end use of the composition according to the invention.

[0166] In some preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention further comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0167] 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of cetyl alcohol;

[0168] 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of glyceryl stearate;

[0169] 0.01% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 2.5%, more preferably 0.5% to 2% PEG-100 stearate;

[0170] 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight of shea butter;

[0171] 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt %, more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt % of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; and

[0172] 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt %, more preferably 0.4 to 2 wt % of acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

[0173] Such compositions may provide a less slippery texture, which allows the compositions of embodiments of the present invention to more easily hold their shape and provide a unique appearance.

[0174] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0175] (i) 0.01 to 3% by weight of neohesperidin dihydrochalcone;

[0176] (ii) 0.01 to 10 wt% of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, and combinations thereof;

[0177] (iii) 0.01% to 3% by weight of at least one carnosine compound selected from the group consisting of carnosine, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, D / L-carnosine, carnitine, carnitine HCl salt, anserine, D-anserine, L-anserine, L-anserine HNO3 salt, and combinations thereof;

[0178] (iv) 0.01 wt % to 3 wt % of an extract of callus culture of Edelweiss;

[0179] (iv) 0.01 wt % to 3 wt % of Truffle extract; and

[0180] (v) 0.01 to 3 wt % of a Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract.

[0181] Galenic Forms and Uses

[0182] The composition of the present invention may be in the form of a gel, cream or lotion.

[0183] The composition according to the invention can be used for caring for keratin materials, for example human skin, in particular the skin of the face or the skin around the eyes.

[0184] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, which method comprises applying to the keratin material a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.

[0185] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention but are not intended to be limiting. Example

[0186] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0187] Table 1

[0188]

[0189]

[0190] Examples 1-5 of the present invention and comparative examples 1-3

[0191] The compositions of inventive examples (IE.) 1 to 5 and comparative examples (CE.) 1 to 3 were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2 and 3. The amount of each component is given in % by weight of the total weight of the composition in which it is contained.

[0192] Table 2

[0193]

[0194] Table 3

[0195]

[0196]

[0197] The compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 5 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0198] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not include neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

[0199] The composition of Comparative Examples 2-3 does not contain neohesperidin dihydrochalcone and carnosine compounds.

[0200] Preparation method:

[0201] Taking the composition of Example 5 of the present invention as an example, the composition listed above is prepared as follows:

[0202] 1) Add water, glycerin, chlorphenesin, xanthan gum and tetrasodium glutamate diacetate to the main container at 65°C under stirring to obtain a uniform mixture;

[0203] 2). Premix cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate, shea butter at 65°C under stirring in another container to obtain a uniform oil phase; and transfer the oil phase to the main container under stirring to obtain a uniform combination;

[0204] 3). Cooling the uniform combination to below 40°C;

[0205] 4). Premixing hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, carnosine, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, Truffle sutchuenensis extract and Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract into a mixture;

[0206] 5) Add the mixture obtained in 4) to the main container at below 40°C under stirring,

[0207] 6) Add Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 to the main container at below 40°C with stirring to obtain a homogenous composition.

[0208] Evaluate

[0209] The compositions of inventive Examples (IE.) 1-4 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-2 were evaluated for skin barrier function by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and for anti-aging effects by skin firmness and wrinkle length.

[0210] Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

[0211] Invite 33 women aged 30-55 to complete the test. In a room at 20-22°C with a relative humidity of 40%-50%, the composition to be evaluated was added at 2.0 mg / ml. 2 Apply evenly on the test area, i.e., on the inner forearm.

[0212] At T0 (time just before application of the test composition) and T 1h (1 hour after application of the test composition) transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured using a vapor pressure meter. According to the method of single use of the test composition, the loss of TEWL at T0 was 0.0447 W / m2 / kg / h at T100 compared to T200. 1h The increase rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was used to evaluate the effect of the test composition on improving the skin barrier function.

[0213] Skin firmness

[0214] 63 women aged 30-55 were invited to use the composition to be tested for 4 weeks, and the composition was evaluated by a dermatologist in terms of skin firmness.

[0215] Wrinkle length

[0216] 67 women aged 30-55 were invited to use the composition to be tested for 2 weeks and to observe the effect of the composition on T0 (time before application of the test composition) and T 2W (2 weeks after application of the test composition) The length of wrinkles (crow's feet) was measured by Primos 3D. The length of wrinkles (crow's feet) at T compared to T0 was calculated. 2w The reduction rate of wrinkle length.

[0217] The results for transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin firmness and wrinkle length are summarized in Table 4 below.

[0218] Table 4

[0219]

[0220] As can be seen from Table 4, compared with the compositions of Comparative Examples 1-2, the compositions of Examples 1-3 of the present invention provide better skin barrier function and anti-aging effects.

[0221] texture

[0222] The compositions of Example 5 of the present invention and Comparative Example 3 were randomly evaluated by a trained panel of experts for 37 attributes. The results are presented in the form of sensory profiles with their average data. The thresholds for significant differences in the test were fixed at 5% and 10%.

[0223] The sensory characteristics of the compositions of Example 5 and Comparative Example 3 are shown in Figure 1 , wherein the solid line represents the composition of Example 5 of the present invention, and the dotted line represents the composition of Comparative Example 3.

[0224] from Figure 1 As can be seen from the above, the composition of Example 5 of the present invention exhibits a less smooth texture and provides a lower cool feeling during application compared to the composition of Comparative Example 3, however, the composition of Example 5 of the present invention is comparable to the composition of Comparative Example 3 in terms of skin finish and application.

[0225] This less smooth texture allows the compositions of the present embodiments to more easily hold their shape and provide a unique appearance.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for keratin materials, comprising: (i) neohesperidin dihydrochalcone; (ii) at least one C-glycoside selected from the group consisting of compounds of formula (I), and their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical and geometric isomers: in: -R represents saturation C1 to C 10 , in particular C1 to C4 alkyl, which may optionally be substituted by at least one group selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, wherein R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl, -S represents a mono- or polysaccharide containing up to 20 saccharide units, in particular up to 6 saccharide units, which are in the pyranose and / or furanose form and are of the L and / or D series, which may be substituted by hydroxyl groups, which must be free, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functions, and -X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- groups, and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- group, and more particularly a -CH(OH)- group, The S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomer isomeric nature, which may be α or β; and (iii) at least one carnosine compound.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein neohesperidin dihydrochalcone is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt%, and more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from -C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-n-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-L-fucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, -C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount of 0.01% to 25%, preferably 0.01% to 15%, and more preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the carnosine compound is selected from a compound of formula (II), or a salt thereof wherein R1 represents H or CH3, and R2 represents H or COOH.

6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the carnosine compound is selected from the group consisting of carnosine, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, D / L-carnosine, carnitine, carnitine HCl salt, anserine, D-anserine, L-anserine, L-anserine HNO3 salt, and combinations thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the carnosine compound is present in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising an anti-redness active ingredient selected from madecassoside, water-locking magnetite, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, panthenol, olive (olive) leaf extract, peppermint extract, alpine edelweiss extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl tetrapeptide-15, Boswellia serrata extract, sodium palmitoyl proline (and) white water lily extract, and combinations thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the anti-redness ingredient is present in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, and more preferably 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising a truffle extract, wherein the truffle is selected from white truffles and black truffles, such as black (Périgord) truffles (Tuber melanosporum), white (summer) truffles (Tuber solani), and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the truffle extract is present in an amount of 0.01% to 10%, preferably 0.01% to 5%, and more preferably 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, further comprising a Salvia miltiorrhiza extract.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the Danshen extract is present in the composition in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, and more preferably 0.01 wt% to 3 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.01 to 3% by weight of neohesperidin dihydrochalcone; (ii) 0.01 to 10 wt% of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranosyl-2-hydroxypropane, and combinations thereof; (iii) 0.01% to 3% by weight of at least one carnosine compound selected from the group consisting of carnosine, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, D / L-carnosine, carnitine, carnitine HCl salt, anserine, D-anserine, L-anserine, L-anserine HNO3 salt, and combinations thereof; (iv) 0.01 wt % to 3 wt % of an extract of callus culture of Edelweiss; (iv) 0.01 wt % to 3 wt % of Truffle extract; and (v) 0.01 to 3 wt % of a Salvia miltiorrhiza leaf extract.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, further comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of cetyl alcohol; 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of glyceryl stearate; 0.01% to 5%, preferably 0.1% to 2.5%, more preferably 0.5% to 2% PEG-100 stearate; 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight of shea butter; 0.01 to 10 wt %, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt %, more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt % of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; and 0.01 to 5 wt %, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt %, more preferably 0.4 to 2 wt % of acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

16. A non-therapeutic method for caring for keratin materials, said method comprising applying to said keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

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