Cosmetic water-in-oil composition comprising polyvinylpyrrolidone as thickener

Abstract

The present invention discloses a wash-free water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion, the wash-free water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion comprising: an aqueous phase comprising water and a hydrophilic thickener consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, the aqueous phase being free of other hydrophilic thickeners; an oil control filler comprising a silicone elastomer; the organic ultraviolet filtering agent is prepared from octyl salicylate; at least one silicone oil; and at least one silicone emulsifier.

Description

[0001] CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

[0002] This application claims priority to US17 / 975,892 filed on October 28, 2022 and FR2300711 filed on December 20, 2022, both of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Technical Field

[0003] The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions, and in particular to water-in-oil emulsions that provide ultraviolet (UV) protection. Background Art

[0004] This section is intended to introduce the reader to various aspects of the technology that may be related to various aspects of the present invention described and / or claimed below. This discussion is believed to be helpful in providing the reader with background information to facilitate a better understanding of the various aspects of the present invention. Therefore, it should be understood that these statements should be read in this light, and not as admissions of prior art.

[0005] Ultraviolet (UV) protection is needed in cosmetic products. However, most UV agents (such as octocrylene, homosalate, etc.) tend to make the composition feel greasy. The addition of various cosmetic ingredients (such as oil absorbents) can improve the touch, but the use of such materials tends to negatively affect stability and reduce the UV protection factor. Therefore, it can be challenging to provide a stable cosmetic composition that provides a reasonable level of UV protection (e.g., SPF of 20) and has the desired aesthetic qualities. Summary of the invention

[0006] Various deficiencies in the prior art are solved by the disclosed system below, and certain compositions can be provided. In some embodiments, a cosmetic emulsion can be provided. The cosmetic emulsion is preferably a wash-free product, and more preferably a wash-free water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion.

[0007] The cosmetic composition may include an aqueous phase comprising water and a hydrophilic thickener. The hydrophilic thickener may be polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), and the aqueous phase may not contain other hydrophilic thickeners. The cosmetic composition may include an oil-control filler. The oil-control filler may include a silicone elastomer. The silicone elastomer may be, for example, a non-glycerolated silicone. The oil-control filler may include a silicone elastomer and may not contain other oil-control fillers. The cosmetic composition may include an organic UV filter consisting of octyl salicylate. The cosmetic composition may be free of or substantially free of other UV filters. The cosmetic composition may include at least one silicone oil, and may include 40% to 60% by weight of the silicone oil of the composition. The cosmetic composition may include at least one silicone emulsifier. Optionally, the cosmetic composition may include an inorganic UV filter, which is preferably UV grade titanium dioxide.

[0008] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include hydrocarbon-based oils accounting for no more than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may not contain silica silylate. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include 10% by weight or less polyols. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a colorant accounting for 5% by weight to 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may include a preservative. In some embodiments, the composition may include a lipophilic thickener. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of organic emulsifiers. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of all other materials (e.g., materials other than water, thickeners, oil-control fillers, organic UV filters, silicone emulsifiers, silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, polyols, colorants, preservatives, and lipophilic thickeners). DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0009] The following description only illustrates the principles of the present invention. It will therefore be understood that a person skilled in the art will be able to design various arrangements that, although not explicitly described or shown herein, embody the principles of the present invention and are included within its scope. In addition, all embodiments described in detail herein are primarily intended to be clearly for illustrative purposes only, to help the reader understand the principles of the present invention and the concepts contributed by the inventors to promote technology, and should be understood as not being limited to such specifically detailed embodiments and conditions. In addition, as used herein, the term "or" refers to a non-exclusive or, unless otherwise specified (e.g., "otherwise" or "or in an alternative"). Furthermore, the various embodiments described herein are not necessarily mutually exclusive, because some embodiments may be combined with one or more other embodiments to form new embodiments.

[0010] Many novel teachings of the present application will be described with particular reference to currently preferred exemplary embodiments. However, it should be understood that such embodiments provide only a few examples of many advantageous uses of the novel teachings herein. Overall, the statements made in the specification of the present application do not necessarily limit any one of the various claimed inventions. In addition, some statements may apply to some inventive features but not to other inventive features.

[0011] The term "substantially free of (a component)" as defined herein means that the system or composition does not contain a significant amount of the component, for example, no more than about 1 wt %, or no more than about 0.5 wt %, or no more than about 0.3 wt %, such as no more than about 0.1 wt %, based on the weight of the system or composition including the system and / or oxidative composition according to embodiments of the present disclosure.

[0012] As defined herein, the term "free of" or "completely free of (a component)" means that the system or composition does not contain that component to any extent measurable by standard methods.

[0013] In some embodiments, a cosmetic emulsion may be provided. The cosmetic emulsion is preferably a leave-on product, and more preferably a leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion.

[0014] Water Phase

[0015] The cosmetic composition may comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and a thickener.

[0016] Water should be present in an amount of no more than 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, water can be present in an amount of no more than 25% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, water can be present in an amount of no more than 20% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, water can be present in an amount of no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, water can be present in an amount of no more than 10% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, water can be present in an amount of 5% to 15% by weight of the composition.

[0017] Surprisingly, it has been found that the disclosed compositions are used together with specific thickeners and do not provide the desired properties when using different thickeners. The thickener should be polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP). The water phase should not contain other thickeners. The thickener should be present in an amount of no more than 3 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the thickener can be present in an amount of no more than 2 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the thickener can be present in an amount of no more than 1 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the thickener can be present in an amount of 0.5 % by weight to 1 % by weight of the composition.

[0018] Oil control filler

[0019] The cosmetic composition may include an oil-control filler. The oil-control filler may include a silicone elastomer. The silicone elastomer may be, for example, a non-glycerolated silicone. The oil-control filler may include a silicone elastomer and may be free or substantially free of other thickeners.

[0020] Silicone elastomer

[0021] If included, the amount of silicone elastomer present in the composition will typically be at least 2%, or at least 3%, or at least 4%, or at least 5% by weight of the composition. It will typically be at most 7%, or at most 8%, or at most 9%, or at most 10% by weight of the composition.

[0022] The silicone elastomer should be an oil-controlling silicone polymer. The silicone elastomer may be a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. The term "non-emulsifying" as used herein refers to an organopolysiloxane elastomer that does not contain a hydrophilic chain, in particular a polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglycerol unit. Therefore, according to some embodiments, the composition may contain a silicone elastomer that does not contain a polyoxyalkylene unit and a polyglycerol unit.

[0023] Non-limiting non-emulsifying elastomers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 8,637,057 (the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety), as well as those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, and KSG-44 by Shin-Etsu, DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505, and DC 9506 by Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by General Electric.

[0024] Silicone elastomers may be in the form of a gel or a powder.

[0025] In some embodiments, the silicone elastomer may be delivered in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are typically non-spherical particles. A non-limiting example of a silicone elastomer useful in the present invention is a dimethicone cross-polymer gel (a blend of dimethicone cross-polymers in a solvent) having a viscosity value of about 150 and about 700 mmHg. 2 / s, about 200 to about 650mm 2 / s and about 300 to about 600mm 2 / s, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

[0026] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomer gels include DC EL-8040ID (INCI Name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140DM (INCI Name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

[0027] Although not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that the silicone elastomer thickens the composition, increases the cushioning (sponge) effect and / or improves the application characteristics of the composition. In addition, it provides a very soft feel and oil control effect after application.

[0028] In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of or substantially free of other oil control agents. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of silica silylate. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of amorphous silicon. In some embodiments, the cosmetic emulsion may be free of starch.

[0029] Ultraviolet (UV) filters

[0030] The cosmetic composition may contain an ultraviolet filter. The ultraviolet filter may be an organic UV filter. The organic UV filter preferably consists of octyl salicylate. The cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of other ultraviolet filters. Octyl salicylate may be present in an amount not exceeding 5% by weight of the composition.

[0031] Silicone oil

[0032] The cosmetic composition may include silicone oil, which should be present in a total amount of at least 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of at least 35% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of at least 40% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 70% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 65% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of no more than 60% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be present in a total amount of 40% to 60% by weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may include a single silicone oil, or may include multiple silicone oils. In some embodiments, silicone oil may be composed of polydimethylsiloxane.

[0033] Volatile silicone oil.

[0034] In some embodiments, the silicone oil may comprise a volatile silicone oil. The term "volatile" oil refers to an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly in the range of 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa, particularly in the range of 13,000 Pa, and more particularly in the range of 1,300 Pa.

[0035] The volatile silicone oils may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. As examples of such oils, mention may be made of octyl trimethylsiloxane, hexyl trimethylsiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), polydimethylsiloxanes (such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt), KF96A of Shin Etsu); such oils are used alone or in mixtures.

[0036] Preferably, the silicone oil may be free or substantially free of volatile silicone oil.

[0037] Non-volatile silicone oil.

[0038] In some embodiments, the silicone oil may comprise a non-volatile silicone oil. The term "non-volatile" oil refers to an oil having a vapor pressure that is not zero and is less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) of oil. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or isothermal thermogravimetric analysis, according to the vapor pressure (standard OECD 104).

[0039] Among the nonvolatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of non-phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils and phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils.

[0040] The silicone oils useful in the present invention advantageously have a molecular weight less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol, and optimally less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.

[0041] Non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oil.

[0042] The term "non-phenylated silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil that does not contain any phenyl substituent. Representative examples of these non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include dimethicone; alkyl dimethicone; vinyl methyl methicone.

[0043] Please note that these non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils do not contain any ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or glycerol type patterns. Therefore, they are different from the silicone surfactants mentioned above.

[0044] Furthermore, the term "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to dimethicone (chemical name).

[0045] In particular, these oils may be chosen from the following non-volatile oils: polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes containing aliphatic groups (especially alkyl) or alkoxy groups, these aliphatic groups being side chains and / or terminal to the silicone chain; these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, by way of example, of cetyl polydimethylsiloxanes sold under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 by Evonik Goldschmidt, containing functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, substituted polydimethylsiloxane aliphatic groups, especially C 2 -C 24 Alkyl groups, polydimethylsiloxanes pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, and functional groups such as hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

[0046] Preferably, these non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl polydimethylsiloxanes and also from silicone oils derived from polydimethylsiloxanes which are substituted by aliphatic groups, in particular C 2 -C 24 Alkyl and functional groups such as hydroxyl groups substituted polydimethylsiloxane.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil is only polydimethylsiloxane.

[0048] The non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen from silicones of formula (I):

[0049]

[0050] in:

[0051] R 1 , R 2 , R 5 and R 6 together or individually are alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0052] R 3 and R 4 together or individually an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl radical,

[0053] X is an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical,

[0054] n and p are integers selected such that the fluid compound, in particular its viscosity at 25° C. is between 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 -6 m 2 / s) and 800,000 cSt, advantageously less than 100,000 cSt, and advantageously an average molar mass by weight less than or equal to 150,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol and better still less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol.

[0055] Other non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include those according to formula (I) in which:

[0056] Substituent R 1 To R 6 and X represents a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cst, for example the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60000 by Wacker,

[0057] Substituent R 1 To R 6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350 cSt, such as the products sold by Dow Corning under the names Belsil DM100, Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, respectively, and

[0058] Substituent R 1 To R 6 represents a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, for example the product sold under the name Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive.

[0059] Non-volatile phenylated silicone oil

[0060] The term "phenylated silicone oil" means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent. These non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be selected from silicone oils that also have at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment, or they can also be selected from silicone oils that do not have any polydimethylsiloxane segments. Please note that the term "polydimethylsiloxane segment" means a divalent siloxane group with two methyl radicals on the silicon atom, which is not located at the end of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: - (Si(CH 3 ) 2 —O)—.

[0061] Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils can be selected from the following:

[0062] (A) Phenylated silicone oils with or without a polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (II):

[0063]

[0064] wherein the R groups (monovalent or divalent) are independently methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl.

[0065] In some embodiments of formula (II), the phenylated silicone oil may include at least three phenyl groups, such as at least four, at least five, or at least six phenyl groups.

[0066] (B) Phenylated silicone oils with or without a polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (III):

[0067]

[0068] wherein the R groups are independently methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl.

[0069] Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (III) comprises at least three phenyl groups, such as at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

[0070] Mixtures of the various phenyl organopolysiloxane compounds described above may be used.

[0071] Examples which may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

[0072] Among the compounds of formula (III), mention may more particularly be made of phenylated silicone oils without any polydimethylsiloxane fragment corresponding to formula (II), in which at least 4 or at least 5 R radicals are phenyl radicals and the rest are methyl radicals.

[0073] Such non-volatile phenylated silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, which are sold in particular by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.

[0074] They correspond in particular to the following formulae (III') and (III"):

[0075]

[0076] Wherein Me represents methyl group and Ph represents phenyl group.

[0077] (C) Phenylated silicone oils, at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment of which corresponds to the following formula (IV):

[0078]

[0079] Where Me represents a methyl group, y is between 1 and 1,000, and X represents —CH 2 —CH(CH 3 )(Ph).

[0080] (D) Phenylated silicone oils corresponding to the following formula (V), and mixtures of the latter:

[0081]

[0082] in:

[0083] R 1 To R 10 Independently of each other, C 1 -C 30 Straight chain, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals,

[0084] m, n, p and q are independently integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum of m+n+q is not equal to zero.

[0085] Preferably, the sum of m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum of m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

[0086] Preferably, q is equal to zero.

[0087] More specifically, R 1 To R 10 Independently of each other, C 1 -C 30 A linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated hydrocarbon radical, and in particular C 1 -C 20 Hydrocarbon radicals, preferably saturated, especially C 1 -C 18 or C 6 -C 14 Aryl radicals, especially C 10 -C 13 Monocyclic or polycyclic or aralkyl radical, preferably the alkyl part of which is C 1 -C 3 .

[0088] Preferably, R 1 To R 10 R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. 1 To R 10 may in particular be identical and may furthermore be a methyl radical.

[0089] As specific examples of formula (V), mention may be made of:

[0090] (1) Phenylated silicone oils with or without at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula (VI), and mixtures of the latter:

[0091]

[0092] in:

[0093] R 1 To R 6 Independently of each other, C 1 -C 30 Saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radicals, aromatic radicals, preferably C 6 -C 14 or the alkyl portion is C 1 -C 3 of aralkyl radicals).

[0094] m, n and p are independently of one another integers between 0 and 1000, and more preferably between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 1000, and more preferably between 1 and 100.

[0095] Preferably, R to R 6 are independently hydrocarbon radicals, preferably alkyl, C 1 -C 20 , especially C 1 -C 18 or C 6 -C 14 Monocyclic aromatic radical (preferably C 6 ) or polycyclic and especially C 10 -C 13 , or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C 6 ; The alkyl part is C 1 -C 3 ).

[0096] Preferably, R 1 To R 10Each may represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

[0097] R 1 To R 6 In particular, they may be identical and may also be methyl radicals. Preferably, in formula (VI), m=1 or 2 or 3 and / or n=0 and / or p=0 or 1 may be used.

[0098] According to one particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is chosen from phenylated silicone oils having at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment.

[0099] Preferably, such oil corresponds to a compound having formula (VI) wherein:

[0100] m=0 and n and p are independently integers between 1 and 100.

[0101] Preferably, R 1 To R 6 It is a methyl free radical.

[0102] According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably selected from diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, such as KF-54 (400 cSt) from ShinEtsu, KF54HV (5000 cSt) from ShinEtsu, KF-50-300CS (300 cSt) from ShinEtsu, KF-53 (175 cSt) from ShinEtsu, KF-50-100CS (100 cSt) from ShinEtsu.

[0103] p is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n+m is between 1 and 1000, and n=0.

[0104] These phenylated silicone oils have or do not have at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment and correspond more particularly to the following formula (VII):

[0105]

[0106] wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' is a -OSiMe3 group and p is 0 or between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

[0107] According to a first embodiment of the non-volatile phenylated silicone having at least one polydimethylsiloxane fragment, p is between 1 and 1000. m is more particularly such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. For example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl polydimethylsiloxane may be used, in particular that sold by Wacker under the reference Belsil PDM 1000.

[0108] According to a second embodiment of a non-volatile phenylated silicone without any dimethicone fragments, p is equal to 0. m is between 1 and 1000 and is in particular such that compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. For example, phenyl dimethicone can be used, in particular sold under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556).

[0109] (E) phenylated non-volatile silicone oils not containing any polydimethylsiloxane fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures of the latter:

[0110]

[0111] in:

[0112] R is independently a C1-C30 saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical (preferably C6-C14) or an aralkyl radical with a C1-C3 alkyl portion.

[0113] m and n are independently integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100.

[0114] More preferably, R is independently of one another a C1-C30 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably saturated hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a saturated C1-C20. In particular a C1-C18, and more particularly a C4-C10, C6-C14 monocyclic or polycyclic aromatic radical, and in particular a C10-C13 or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aromatic part is C6 and the alkyl part is C1-C3.

[0115] Preferably, Rs may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

[0116] Rs may in particular be identical and may furthermore be a methyl radical.

[0117] Preferably, in formula (VIII), m=1 or 2 or 3 and / or n=0 and / or p=0 or 1 can be used.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula (VIII), n is an integer between 0 and 100, and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

[0119] According to one embodiment, a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VIII) may be used having a viscosity between 5 and 1500 mm2 / s (ie, 5 to 1500 cSt) at 25°C, and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (ie, 5 to 1000 cSt).

[0120] According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is preferably selected from phenyl trimethicone (when n=0), such as DC556 (22.5 cSt) from Dow Corning, or diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone (when m and n are between 1 and 100), such as KF56 A from Shin Etsu, -Silbione oil 70663V30 (28 cSt) from Poulenc. The values ​​in brackets represent the viscosity at 25°C.

[0121] (F) Phenylated silicone oils with or without at least one polydimethylsiloxane segment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures of the latter:

[0122]

[0123] in:

[0124] R1, R2, R5 and R6 are the same or different and are alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0125] R3 and R4 are the same or different and are alkyl radicals or aryl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms (preferably C6-C14), provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,

[0126] X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

[0127] n and p are integers greater than or equal to 1 and are selected in such a way that the average molar mass by weight of the oil is preferably less than 150,000 g / mol, more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol.

[0128] and mixtures of the latter.

[0129] According to a more suitable embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

[0130] Silicone emulsifier

[0131] The cosmetic composition may include at least one silicone emulsifier. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include at least two silicone emulsifiers.

[0132] At least one silicone emulsifier should be present in a total amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one silicone emulsifier should be present in a total amount of no more than 4% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one silicone emulsifier should be present in a total amount of no more than 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, at least one silicone emulsifier should be present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition.

[0133] Non-limiting examples of silicone emulsifiers include linear or branched polysiloxane copolymers substituted with polyethers. A preferred silicone emulsifier is PEG-10 dimethicone, available as ES-5612 from Dow Corning (Midland, Michigan), or KF-6017 from Shin-Etsu (Akron, Ohio). Another preferred silicone emulsifier is dimethicone (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone, available as ES-5226DM from Dow Corning (Midland, Michigan). Other suitable silicone emulsifiers include PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, available under the trade name KF-6028, and PEG-9, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, available under the trade name KF-6038, both available from Shin-Etsu (Akron, Ohio).

[0134] Hydrocarbon-based oil

[0135] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a hydrocarbon-based oil.

[0136] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic acid functional groups. Typically, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 000 mPa·s, preferably 50 to 50 000 mPa·s, and more preferably 100 to 300 000 mPa·s.

[0137] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may comprise a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. Non-limiting examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly C 2-16 hydrocarbons of petroleum origin. 8 -C 16 Isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and isohexadecane, such as the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C 8 -C 16 Esters and isohexyl pivalate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold by Shell under the name Shell Solt; or volatile straight-chain alkanes. Preferably, the composition may be free or substantially free of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.

[0138] In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based oil may include a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. Non-limiting examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include:

[0139] Hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0140] Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, petrolatum, polydecene, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as Parleam) or squalane;

[0141] Phytosterol esters such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate, and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytosteryl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew ),

[0142] Triglycerides are fatty acid esters of glycerol, especially fatty acids with chain lengths ranging from C 4 To C 36 , and especially C 18 To C 36, which may be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or caprylic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame seed oil (820.6 g / mol), corn oil, almond oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, nut oil, passionflower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric triglycerides, for example, those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the name Miglyol and Caprylic / capric triglyceride sold under the name;

[0143] Synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dioctyl ether,

[0144] Hydrocarbyl esters of the formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbyl chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearic acid esters, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoic acid esters and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyol octanoic acid esters, caprates or ricinoleic acid esters, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate and mixtures thereof, C 12 To C 15 Alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoates such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoates such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate and myristyl myristate;

[0145] Polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers with diols, such as those described in patent application FR0 853634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made in particular in this regard of the polyesters produced by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast (INCI name: Dilinoleic acid / butylene glycol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent

[0146] Polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

[0147] fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol,

[0148] Dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as those manufactured by Cognis under the name Cetiol Dicaprylyl carbonate for sale.

[0149] Hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and

[0150] Aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, C 12 -C 15 Alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate and butyloctyl salicylate.

[0151] When present, hydrocarbon-based oil should be present in an amount of no more than 20 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 15 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 10 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 1 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 2 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 3 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 4 % by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, hydrocarbon-based oil can be present in a total amount of no more than 5 % by weight of the composition.

[0152] Polyols

[0153] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be a hydrocarbon polyol. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of no more than 15 % by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of no more than 12 % by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount of no more than 5 % by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the polyol may be present in a total amount between 5 % by weight and 10 % by weight.

[0154] In some embodiments, the composition can include a plurality of polyols present in a total amount greater than 1% by weight of the composition and a plurality of polyols present in a total amount less than 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0155] The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the polyol can exist in liquid form at room temperature.

[0156] In various embodiments, the polyols suitable for use in the present invention can be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type compounds, which carry at least two -OH functional groups, particularly at least three -OH functional groups, and more particularly at least four -OH functional groups on each alkyl chain.

[0157] In some embodiments, the polyol may contain 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 16 carbon atoms, advantageously 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more advantageously 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0158] In some embodiments, the polyol can be polyethylene glycol.

[0159] In some embodiments, the polyol may be a polyhydric alcohol, preferably C2-C8 and more preferably C3-C6 polyhydric alcohol. Non-limiting examples thereof include glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, hexylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and diglycerol, ethylhexylglycerol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers (e.g., diglycerol and polyethylene glycol), glycol ethers (especially containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as monopropylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

[0160] In some embodiments, the polyol may include one polyol present in an amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition, and the polyol may be substantially free of other polyols.

[0161] Inorganic UV filters

[0162] The inorganic UV filter may consist of UV grade titanium dioxide, and the cosmetic composition may be free of other inorganic UV filters. "UV-grade" titanium dioxide generally has a relatively small particle size - typically having an average particle size of 250 nm or less, including 200 nm or less, and / or 150 nm or less. In some cases, the average particle size is about 130 nm.

[0163] Inorganic UV filters will typically be present in an amount of less than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, inorganic UV filters may be present in an amount of less than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, inorganic UV filters may be present in an amount of less than 7% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, inorganic UV filters may be present in an amount of less than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, inorganic UV filters may be present in an amount of less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of inorganic UV filters.

[0164] Colorants

[0165] The cosmetic composition may include a colorant. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of less than 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of less than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of less than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of at least 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colorant may be present in an amount of at least 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include a colorant in an amount of 5% to 15% by weight of the composition.

[0166] The colorant or colorants may be chosen from organic and / or inorganic colorants, such as in particular the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble colorants, materials having specific optical effects, and mixtures thereof.

[0167] In some embodiments, the composition may comprise 5% to 10% by weight of the composition of a single pigment, at least 1% by weight of the composition of a pearlescent pigment, and may be substantially free of all other colorants.

[0168] pigment.

[0169] Coloring agent can comprise one or more pigments or be made up of one or more pigments.Each pigment is preferably coated.In certain embodiments, one or more pigments comprise pigment grade titanium dioxide.“Pigment grade” titanium dioxide generally has a larger particle size than UV grade titanium dioxide (it typically has an average particle size of 400nm or larger), including 500nm or larger and / or 600nm or larger.

[0170] The term "pigment" is understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous solution and which are intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

[0171] The pigment may be present in a proportion of 0.1 wt % to 30 wt %, such as 1 wt % to 30 wt %, or 5 wt % to 20 wt %, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0172] As inorganic pigments which can be used, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, iron blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

[0173] The pigment may also be a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silicon dioxide type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, by the company Chemicals and Catalysts under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

[0174] The colorant may also contain a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100P, which consists of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0175] Among the organic pigments that can be used, mention may be made of carbon black, D&C pigments, lakes based on cochineal, on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0176] In some embodiments, the coating may include alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, or pigmentary titanium dioxide, and a hydrocarbon-based emulsifier disclosed herein. In some embodiments, the coating may be present in a total amount of less than 1% by weight of the composition.

[0177] When iron oxides are present, such iron oxides (i.e., excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such iron oxides (excluding coatings) are present in a total amount of 1% to 1.5% by weight of the composition.

[0178] When pigmentary titanium dioxide is present, such pigmentary titanium dioxide (i.e., excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of no more than 20% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigmentary titanium dioxide (excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of no more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, such pigmentary titanium dioxide (excluding the coating) is present in a total amount of 5% to 10% by weight of the composition.

[0179] Mother of Pearl

[0180] The coloring agent may also include one or more nacres.The term "nacres" is understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are produced or synthesized in particular by certain molluscs in their shells and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0181] The mother-of-pearl can be selected from pearlescent pigments. Such pigments can include natural or synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite). Non-limiting examples of the pearlescent pigments of the present invention include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, and titanium oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium and iron oxide, mica titanium and iron blue, chromium oxide, etc., mica titanium and organic pigments of the above types and those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof. This can also include mica particles, at least two continuous layers of metal oxides and / or organic colorants superimposed at their surfaces. If pearlescent pigments are present, they are typically present in a total amount of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, pearlescent pigments are present in a total amount of no more than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, pearlescent pigments are present in a total amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition.

[0182] Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the Timica nacres, Flamenco nacres and Duochrome nacres (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by Merck, the Prestige nacres based on mica sold by the company Eckart and the Sunshine nacres based on synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical.

[0183] The mother-of-pearl may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or shimmer.

[0184] As illustration of mother-of-pearl that can be used in the context of the present disclosure, mention may be made in particular of the gold mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); and bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (Cosmica). orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by the company Engelhard; copper iridescent mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Copper 340A (Timica) by the company Engelhard; red iridescent mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) by the company Merck; yellow iridescent mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite) by the company Engelhard; red mother-of-pearl with golden iridescence sold in particular under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone) by the company Engelhard; pink mother-of-pearl sold in particular under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by the company Engelhard;Black mother-of-pearl with golden sheen, sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with silver sheen, sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and green-gold and pink-orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof. ;

[0185] dye

[0186] Colorants may also include water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, and quinoline yellow. Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0187] Materials with special optical effects.

[0188] The colorant may also include at least one material having a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple, conventional hue effect, i.e., the uniform and stable effect produced by conventional colorants (such as, for example, monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "stable" means that there is no effect of color variation with the viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, the material may be selected from particles with metallic glitter, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromics, optical brighteners, and fibers, in particular interference-type fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined to provide a simultaneous appearance of two effects, or even a new effect.

[0189] The metallic flash particles useful in the present disclosure are particularly selected from: (i) particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; (ii) particles comprising a single substance or a plurality of substances, an organic or inorganic matrix, which are at least partially coated with at least one metallic flash layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and (iii) mixtures of such particles. The term "metal derivative" means a compound derived from a metal, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0190] Non-limiting examples of metals that may be present in such particles include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof, such as Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze and brass).

[0191] As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the name STARBRITE 1200 by the company Siberline. and by the company Eckart under the name Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or alloy mixtures, such as the No. 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze; metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, for example those sold under the name Rotosafe 700 by the company Eckart, silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver by the company Eckart; and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold by the company Eckart. The particles in question may also be particles comprising a glass matrix, such as those sold under the name Microglass Metashine by the company Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0192] Visually chromatic colorants may be selected, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0193] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in the compositions prepared according to the present disclosure are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure are sold by Dupont de Nemours; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure are sold by Flex under the name Chromaflair; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures are sold by BASF under the name Sicopearl; MoS2 / Si Pigments with the structures O2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO are sold under the name Xirona by Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be pigments of the silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Magic, pigments of the silica / brown iron oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Indian Summer and pigments of the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold by Merck under the name Xirona Carribean Blue. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and nature of the layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, for the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from green-gold to red-grey for a SiO2 layer of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for a SiO2 layer of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for a SiO2 layer of 410 to 420 nm; and from copper to red for a SiO2 layer of 430 to 440 nm.

[0194] Mention may be made, as examples of pigments having a polymeric multilayer structure, of those sold under the name Color Glitter by the company 3M.

[0195] Examples of liquid crystal visual chromatic particles that can be used include those sold by Chenix and those sold by Wacker under the name Products sold by HC.

[0196] preservative

[0197] In some embodiments, the composition may include a preservative. In some embodiments, the composition may include multiple preservatives. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in an amount of no more than 2% by weight of the composition.

[0198] Non-limiting examples of preservatives include phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, parabens (methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, isobutyl paraben, etc.), sodium benzoate, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), potassium sorbate, and / or grapefruit seed extract or a combination thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives known in the cosmetic industry include salicylic acid, DMDM ​​hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenesin, triclosan, chlorhexidine digluconate, imidazolidinyl urea, and diazolidinyl urea. Any or all may be used alone or in combination with one another.

[0199] Lipophilic thickener

[0200] In certain embodiments, the composition may include a lipophilic thickener. The lipophilic thickener is preferably composed of modified clay. In certain embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickener is less than 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickener is less than 2% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickener is less than 1.5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickener is at least 0.5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of the lipophilic thickener is at least 1% by weight of the composition.

[0201] Clays are silicates containing cations which may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations and mixtures thereof. Examples of such materials include, but are not limited to, clays of the montmorillonite family, and clays of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0202] Mention may in particular be made of montmorillonites, such as saponites, laponites, montmorillonites, bentonites or beidellites, and in particular synthetic laponites (also called laponites), such as the products sold under the names LAPONITE XLS, LAPONITE XLG, LAPONITE RD, LAPONITE RDS and LAPONITE XL21 by Rockwood Additives Limited (these products are sodium magnesium silicates, and in particular sodium lithium magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the products sold under the name BENTONE HC by Rheox; magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated, such as the products sold under the names VEEGUM ULTRA, VEEGUM HS or VEEGUM DGT by the company Vanderbilt, or calcium silicates, and in particular the synthetic form of calcium silicate sold by this company under the name MICRO-CEL C.

[0203] In some cases, organophilic clays, more particularly modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, laponite, attapulgite and sepiolite and mixtures thereof are preferred. The clay is preferably an optionally modified bentonite or an optionally modified laponite. The clay may be modified with a compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0204] Mention may be made of laponites modified with quaternary amines, more particularly with C 10 To C 22 Hectorites modified with fatty acid ammonium halides (such as chlorides), such as hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: distearyldimethylammonium hectorite), for example the products sold under the names BENTONE 38V, BENTONE 38V CG or BENTONE EW CE by the company Elementis, or stearyldimethylammonium hectorites, such as BENTONE 27 V. In some cases, the clay is preferably distearyldimethylammonium hectorite.

[0205] Mention may also be made of quaternium-18 bentonites, such as those sold under the name BENTONE 34 by the company Elementis, under the name TIXOGEL VP by the company United Catalyst and under the name CLAYTONE 40 by the company Southern Clay; stearyl dimonium bentonites, such as those sold under the name TIXOGEL LG by the company United Catalyst and under the name CLAYTONE AF and CLAYTONE APA by the company Southern Clay; or quaternium-18 / benzalkonium chloride bentonites, such as the bentonite sold under the name CLAYTONE HT by the company Southern Clay.

[0206] In some cases, the clay is preferably selected from organophilically modified clays, in particular organophilically modified hectorites, in particular hectorites modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: Distearyldimethylammonium Hectorite).

[0207] In some embodiments, the total amount of modified clay is less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of modified clay is less than 2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of modified clay is less than 1.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of modified clay is at least 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of modified clay is at least 1% by weight of the composition.

[0208] Other Materials

[0209] In some embodiments, the composition may be free or substantially free of all other materials (e.g., materials other than water, thickeners, oil control fillers, organic UV filters, silicone emulsifiers, silicone oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, polyols, colorants, preservatives, and lipophilic thickeners).

[0210] In some embodiments, the compositions may include vitamins and / or extracts, pH adjusters or buffers, and a pigment coating.

[0211] In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of organic emulsifiers.

[0212] Vitamins and extracts.

[0213] In some embodiments, the composition may include vitamins. In some embodiments, the composition may include multiple vitamins. Such vitamins include materials with vitamin activity. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of no more than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of no more than 0.3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the vitamins may be present in a total amount of 0.15% to 0.3% by weight of the composition.

[0214] Non-limiting examples of such vitamins include vitamin K, vitamin B8, vitamin B12, thiamine riboflavin, nicotinamide (also known as nicotinamide), pantothenic acid, pyridoxine and derivatives, biotin (vitamin B7), folic acid, cyanocobalamin and ascorbic acid. Vitamins include vitamin derivatives. For example, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, especially its phosphate derivatives such as the potassium salt of di-α-tocopheryl diascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the number Sepivita! EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the number Stay-C 50) and its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, palmitate and propionate; retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, especially its esters such as retinyl acetate, palmitate and propionate; and pantothenic acid (vitamin B) and its derivatives, such as pantolactone and D-panthenol.

[0215] In some embodiments, the composition may include an anti-extractant. In some embodiments, the composition may include a single extractant. In some embodiments, the composition may include multiple extractants. In some embodiments, the extractant may be present in a total amount of no more than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, vitamins may be present in a total amount of no more than 0.1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, vitamins may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.01% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, vitamins may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.001% by weight of the composition. Non-limiting examples of extracts include, for example, plant extracts, particularly seaweed extracts, olive leaf extracts, wolfberry fruit extracts, and plant proteins and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice or soy protein hydrolysates; algae extracts, particularly kelp extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and Dioscoreaceae extracts, particularly wild yam extracts.

[0216] pH adjusters or buffers.

[0217] In some embodiments, the compositions may include a pH adjuster and / or a buffer.

[0218] pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium metasilicate, silicate compounds, citric acid, lactic acid, ascorbic acid and carbonate compounds and sodium hydroxide.

[0219] Non-limiting examples of buffers include acetate buffer (e.g., acetic acid + sodium acetate), phosphate buffer (e.g., sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), citrate buffer (e.g., citric acid + sodium citrate), borate buffer (e.g., boric acid + sodium borate), tartrate buffer (e.g., tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris buffer (e.g., tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane) or Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid).

[0220] In some embodiments, the thickener may be present in an amount of less than 3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition is substantially free of both pH adjusting agents and buffering agents. In some embodiments, the pH adjusting agents and buffering agents may be present in a total amount of 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of the composition.

[0221] Pigment coating.

[0222] In certain embodiments, when applying pigment, various coatings can be used. In certain embodiments, the coating of the pigment may include at least one compound selected from aluminum oxide, silicon dioxide and aluminum hydroxide. In certain embodiments, the coating of the pigment may include anionic surfactants. Non-limiting examples thereof include acyl glutamates, such as disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0223] In some embodiments, the pigment coating may be present in a total amount of no more than 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may be present in a total amount of no more than 0.3% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may be present in a total amount of no less than 0.1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the pigment coating may be present in a total amount of 0.15% to 0.3% by weight of the composition.

[0224] Examples

[0225] Compositions such as shown in Table 1 below can be produced by first mixing the oil, oil soluble ingredients in a container, mixing the water and water soluble ingredients in a separate container, then combining the two phases while homogenizing, and then adding the oil control filler and colorant.

[0226] Table 1 (Example and Comparative Formulas)

[0227] Material Name Example 1 Example 2 C 1 C 2 C 3 PVP 0.7 0.2 - - - VP / eicosene copolymer - - - 1.0 Acrylate copolymer - - - 1.0 water qs qs qs qs qs Dimethicone Crosspolymer 6.3 6.3 6.3 6.3 6.3 Octyl Salicylate 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 PEG-10 Dimethicone 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Dimethicone 48.7 48.7 48.7 48.7 48.7 Pigment Grade TiO2 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 Pearlescent Pigments 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 Other pigments 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 Pigment coating 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 Phenoxyethanol 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Other preservatives 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Polyol (glycerol) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Other polyols 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 pH Adjusters 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Extraction agent 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Vitamins 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

[0228] As can be seen, the compositions shown in Table 1 are substantially the same except for the claimed aqueous phase (water is used as the qs material, while the amounts and / or specific hydrophilic thickeners used vary).

[0229] Certain characteristics of the compositions were compared, which are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0230] Table 2 (Summary of characteristics

[0231]

[0232] As can be seen, surprisingly, regardless of the amount of thickener tested, the exemplary formulas (Examples 1 and 2) were both stable and had desirable textural characteristics (including streak-free and drag-free application). When the thickener was completely removed (C1), the texture changed, resulting in less than ideal performance. Unexpectedly, other hydrophilic thickeners did not alleviate this problem - the other agents made the formulas (C2 and C3) unstable and resulted in an undesirable texture.

[0233] In some embodiments, a method for applying a cosmetic product to a face may be provided. The method may include applying a cosmetic composition disclosed herein to the face during a first time period, and then removing the cosmetic composition from the face during a second time period after the first time period.

Claims

1. A wash-free water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion, comprising: an aqueous phase comprising water and a hydrophilic thickener consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, wherein the aqueous phase does not contain other hydrophilic thickeners; an oil-control filler comprising a silicone elastomer; organic ultraviolet filters (UV) consisting of octyl salicylate; at least one silicone oil; at least one silicone emulsifier; and Optionally, an inorganic UV filter consisting of UV-grade titanium dioxide.

2. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic emulsion does not contain silica silylate.

3. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the oil-control filler comprises laponite.

4. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the silicone oil accounts for 40 to 60 weight % of the emulsion.

5. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 4, wherein the cosmetic emulsion comprises 10% by weight or less of hydrocarbon-based oil.

6. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 5, further comprising 10 wt% or less of a polyol.

7. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 6, further comprising a colorant in an amount of 5 to 15 wt% of the emulsion.

8. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 7, wherein the colorant comprises titanium dioxide in an amount of 5 to 10 wt% of the emulsion.

9. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 7, further comprising a preservative.

10. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 9, further comprising a lipophilic thickener.

11. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic emulsion is substantially free of organic emulsifiers.

12. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 11, wherein the cosmetic emulsion is substantially free of all other materials.

13. The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the silicone emulsifier is a non-glycerolated silicone.

14. A method for applying cosmetics to the face, wherein include: Providing the wash-free water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion according to claim 1; applying the leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion to the face at a first time point; as well as The leave-on water-in-oil cosmetic emulsion was removed from the face at the second time point.

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