Preparation process of spandex-free super-shrinkage vamp

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of textile, provides a preparation process of a non-spandex super-shrinkage vamp, and solves the problems that the existing spandex vamp is high in production cost, large in recycling difficulty, relatively single in jacquard pattern and relatively poor in wrapping performance when a user wears a rear foot. Comprising the following steps: (1) selecting raw material yarns: adopting Sorona double-component composite yarn DTY (Draw Textured Yarn) with the specification of 150D / 72F and Sorona double-component composite yarn DTY with the specification of 200D / 72F; (2) weaving the raw material yarns into grey cloth by using a double-jacquard warp knitting machine; and (3) carrying out pre-shaping treatment on the gray fabric at 190 DEG C, then carrying out dyeing treatment, and then shaping to obtain the spandex-free super-shrinkage vamp.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to textile technology, in particular to a preparation process of a spandex-free super-shrinkage shoe upper. Background Art

[0002] With the rapid expansion of the sports shoes and outdoor shoes market, consumers' demand for upper materials has gradually shifted from single elasticity to multifunctionality such as high strength, light weight, comfort and environmental protection. Traditional spandex uppers face the following problems:

[0003] (1) Cost issues: The production cost of spandex fiber is relatively high, and the upper weaving process has strict requirements on the process and raw materials; (2) Insufficient durability: Spandex uppers are prone to fatigue and aging under high-frequency use or harsh environments, which reduces the life of the product; (3) Environmental pressure: The production process of spandex fiber involves a large amount of solvent and energy consumption, which is difficult to recycle and does not meet the requirements of sustainable development.

[0004] In recent years, new polymer materials with heat shrinkage properties (such as modified polyester fibers and nylon fibers) have become potential substitutes for spandex. These materials can shrink in size at a specific temperature while maintaining excellent mechanical properties and shape stability, providing a technical basis for the development of spandex-free uppers. The strengthening of environmental regulations and the improvement of consumers' environmental awareness have prompted footwear manufacturers and material suppliers to actively seek sustainable alternatives. Spandex-free uppers not only meet the trend of low-carbon production, but also achieve more efficient material recycling.

[0005] Chinese patent application No. 202210129219.6 discloses a polyester-spandex interwoven cotton-wrapped knot-free ultra-high elastic coarse fiber hiking shoe fabric, the fabric is interwoven with warp yarn and weft yarn, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are core-spun yarn, the warp yarn is composed of cotton fiber wrapped with 150d polyester fiber, and the weft yarn is composed of cotton fiber wrapped with 840d spandex fiber; compared with the prior art, this invention solves the problem that the current hiking shoe fabric has knots and is not elastic enough. However, the upper fabric is a spandex upper, which has the problems of high production cost, difficulty in recycling, and relatively environmentally unfriendly.

[0006] Chinese Patent Application No. 202011084222.8 discloses a low-spandex high-elastic jacquard-woven upper sandwich fabric and its production method. The low-spandex high-elastic jacquard-woven upper sandwich fabric contains 1-6% spandex by weight percentage, and the balance is any two of polyester, polyamide, and cationic fiber. Its production uses a double-needle bed single jacquard warp knitting machine. Among them, the jacquard comb is arranged on the back needle bed, including the following steps: the guide bar pattern of the jacquard comb is 0-0-2-2 / / weft insertion organization; a first ordinary comb is arranged inside the jacquard comb, and the guide bar pattern of the first ordinary comb is 1-0-0-1 / / chain stitch organization; and a second ordinary comb is arranged outside the jacquard comb, and the guide bar pattern of the second ordinary comb is 0-0-1-1 / / . The low-spandex high-elastic jacquard-woven upper sandwich fabric provided by the present invention, compared with the process of using 10-20% spandex in the high-elastic warp knitted fabric in the prior art, reduces the cost by 33-50% while maintaining the elasticity of the fabric. However, this upper fabric has the problems of relatively single jacquard patterns and relatively poor foot wrapping performance after wearing. Summary of the Invention

[0007] Therefore, in view of the above problems, the present invention provides a preparation process for an ammonia-free super-shrinkable upper, which solves the problems of high production cost, difficult recycling, relatively single jacquard patterns, and relatively poor foot wrapping performance of the existing ammonia-spandex upper.

[0008] To achieve the above object, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

[0009] A preparation process for an ammonia-free super-shrinkable upper, including the following steps:

[0010] S1. Selection of raw yarns: Use Sorona two-component composite yarn DTY with a specification of 150D / 72F and Sorona two-component composite yarn DTY with a specification of 200D / 72F;

[0011] S2. Weave the raw yarns into a grey fabric using a double jacquard warp knitting machine, and the grey fabric is formed by knitting with five guide bars GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4, and GB5;

[0012] S3. Perform pre-setting treatment on the grey fabric at 190°C, then perform dyeing treatment, and then set to obtain the ammonia-free super-shrinkable upper;

[0013] The organizational structure of GB1 is 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1A;

[0014] The organizational structure of GB2 is jacquard 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1A;

[0015] The organizational structure of GB3 is jacquard 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1A;

[0016] The organizational structure of GB4 is jacquard 1-2-1-1 / 1-0-1-1 / / 1B;

[0017] The organizational structure of GB5 is jacquard 1-2-1-1 / 1-0-1-1 / / 1B;

[0018] Let-off amount:

[0019] GB1: 3.5 mm / row;

[0020] GB2: 4.94 mm / row;

[0021] GB3: 4.94 mm / row;

[0022] GB4: 4.94 mm / row;

[0023] GB5: 4.94 mm / row;

[0024] Among them, A: 150D / 72F Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY, B: 200D / 72F Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY.

[0025] The Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY is made by composite spinning of DuPont Sorona polymer (PTT) and polymer PET, and has a bicomponent structure. Among them, PTT is the main component, with excellent elasticity and deformation recovery ability; PET provides high strength, heat resistance and low shrinkage rate; during fabric weaving or post-treatment, by heating (such as heat setting process), the shrinkage difference of the internal components of the fiber is stimulated, resulting in the following changes in the fiber:

[0026] (1) Dimension shortening: The fiber length is significantly reduced, forming high elasticity;

[0027] (2) Surface wrinkles: Texture or volume changes occur on the fabric surface, improving the fabric texture and functionality.

[0028] PTT is derived from renewable materials, and its molecular structure determines excellent heat shrinkage and shape memory characteristics. In a high-temperature environment, its shrinkage rate can reach 30%-50%, significantly higher than that of traditional polyester or nylon.

[0029] Furthermore, the dyeing treatment uses high-temperature high-pressure overflow dyeing method.

[0030] Furthermore, the specific process of the dyeing treatment is:

[0031] a. Dye formulation: Use 0.0002% by mass of Disperse Red ACE, 0.0036% of Disperse Yellow ACE, 0.0026% of Disperse Blue ACE, and the balance is water to form a dye. The auxiliaries used are 1 g / L of high-temperature leveling agent NX-213 and 0.5 g / L of scouring and degreasing agent NX-2284;

[0032] b. Yarn dyeing: First, add the auxiliaries at room temperature, let it stand for 5 min, then add the dye and let it stand for 10 min. Use stepwise heating, rise to 100 °C at a rate of 1 °C / min, stay for 10 min, then rise to 130 °C at a rate of 1.5 °C / min and dye for 20 min. After that, cool down to 70 °C at a rate of 2 °C / min, perform cold drainage, then wash at 80 °C for 20 min. Finally, wash twice with normal temperature water for 10 min each time and then drain the cloth.

[0033] Further, the horizontal density of the greige cloth is 11.6 wpc.

[0034] Further, the vertical density of the greige cloth is 17 cpc.

[0035] The horizontal density is the number of courses in the longitudinal direction of the loops within a length of 1 cm along the horizontal row direction of the warp knitted fabric; the vertical density is the number of wales in the transverse direction of the loops within a length of 1 cm along the vertical row direction of the warp knitted fabric.

[0036] Further, the loom density of the greige cloth is 15 cpc.

[0037] Further, the gram weight of the greige cloth is 493 g / m 2 .

[0038] By adopting the foregoing technical solutions, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:

[0039] 1. The Sorona two-component composite DTY has both softness and thermal stability. During the heat shrinkage process, it can maintain high elasticity, anti-fatigue performance, and uniform shrinkage, is not easy to deform or wrinkle, and can adapt to various weaving structures and process requirements. The Sorona two-component composite DTY realizes efficient morphological changes and performance optimization during the post-treatment process through the shrinkage characteristic differences of different components. Its high shrinkage performance endows the shoe upper with good elasticity, hand feeling, and comfort in the application of the shoe upper.

[0040] 2. Use an RDPJ7 double-jacquard yarn carrier warp knitting machine for knitting. The jacquard comb adopts the passive yarn feeding method of the yarn carrier. Each jacquard warp yarn is not restricted by the tension between each other, and can perform dotting and weft insertion jacquard with different densities, thereby obtaining rich and colorful and various jacquard patterns.

[0041] 3. The ammonia-free super-shrinkable shoe upper prepared by this technical solution undergoes warp knitting and dyeing and finishing processes. The product combines the properties of comfort, breathability, soft touch, and comfortable resilience. When applied to warp-knitted shoe material fabrics, it can achieve the effects of softness, durability, and excellent wrapping performance after wearing, being both beautiful and fashionable with a strong sense of technology. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0042] Figures 1 to 5 It is a data graph of the test results of the ammonia-free super-shrinkable shoe upper in the embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS

[0043] Example, refer to Figures 1 to 5 , a preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinkable shoe upper, comprising the following steps:

[0044] (1) Selection of raw yarns

[0045] Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY with a specification of 150D / 72F and Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY with a specification of 200D / 72F are adopted;

[0046] The Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY is made by composite spinning of DuPont Sorona polymer (PTT) and polymer PET, and has a bicomponent structure; among them, PTT is the main component, with excellent elasticity and deformation recovery ability; PET provides high strength, heat resistance, and a lower shrinkage rate; during the fabric weaving or post-treatment process, the shrinkage difference of the internal components of the fiber is stimulated by heating (such as heat setting process), resulting in the following changes in the fiber:

[0047] a. Dimension shortening: The fiber length significantly shrinks, forming high elasticity;

[0048] b. Surface wrinkles: Textures or volume changes are generated on the fabric surface, enhancing the fabric texture and functionality.

[0049] PTT is derived from renewable materials, and its molecular structure determines excellent heat shrinkage and shape memory characteristics; in a high-temperature environment, its shrinkage rate can reach 30%-50%, significantly higher than that of traditional polyester or nylon;

[0050] (2) Weaving

[0051] The raw yarns are woven into a greige fabric by using an RDPJ7 double jacquard warp knitting machine. The horizontal density of the greige fabric is 11.6 wpc, the vertical density is 17 cpc, the machine density is 15 cpc, and the gram weight is 493 g / m 2 , where the horizontal density is the number of coil courses in a 1 cm length along the horizontal row direction of the warp knitted fabric; the vertical density is the number of coil wales in a 1 cm length along the vertical row direction of the warp knitted fabric;

[0052] The grey fabric is knitted by five combs, namely GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4, and GB5;

[0053] The organizational structure of GB1 is 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1A;

[0054] The organizational structure of GB2 is jacquard 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1A;

[0055] The organizational structure of GB3 is jacquard 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1A;

[0056] The organizational structure of GB4 is jacquard 1-2-1-1 / 1-0-1-1 / / 1B;

[0057] The organizational structure of GB5 is jacquard 1-2-1-1 / 1-0-1-1 / / 1B;

[0058] Warp feeding amount:

[0059] GB1: 3.5 mm / row;

[0060] GB2: 4.94 mm / row;

[0061] GB3: 4.94 mm / row;

[0062] GB4: 4.94 mm / row;

[0063] GB5: 4.94 mm / row;

[0064] Among them, A: 150D / 72F Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY, B: 200D / 72F Sorona bicomponent composite filament DTY;

[0065] (3) Preshrinking

[0066] The grey fabric is subjected to preshrinking treatment at 190 °C. The preshrinking machine used is the EAG-2000-CBR-0 Taiwan Ligen setting machine. The input speed of the grey fabric is set at 15 yards / min. The grey fabric is fed into the interior of the setting machine along the reverse knitting direction. First, the setting size of the grey fabric is stretched or shrunk through the overfeed roller device and the needle clip chain stretching device, and then it undergoes setting treatment through multiple dry heat-sealed oven devices. After cooling, the set grey fabric completes the preshrinking;

[0067] The setting machine adopts high-temperature hot air setting technology, enabling the hot air to act evenly on both the front and back sides of the grey fabric. When the temperature in the closed oven of the setting machine is higher than the glass transition temperature of the grey fabric, the macromolecules inside the fiber raw materials are reorganized, thereby changing the surface size of the grey fabric;

[0068] (4) Dyeing

[0069] The dyeing treatment adopts the high-temperature high-pressure overflow dyeing method, and the specific process of the dyeing treatment is as follows:

[0070] a. Preparation of the dyeing agent: Use 0.0002% by mass of Disperse Red ACE, 0.0036% of Disperse Yellow ACE, 0.0026% of Disperse Blue ACE, and the balance is water to prepare the dye. As for the auxiliaries, use 1 g / L of high-temperature leveling agent NX-213 and 0.5 g / L of scouring and degreasing agent NX-2284;

[0071] b. Yarn dyeing: First, add the auxiliaries at room temperature, let it stand for 5 min, then add the dye and let it stand for 10 min. Adopt stepwise heating, rise to 100 °C at a rate of 1 °C / min, stay for 10 min, then rise to 130 °C at a rate of 1.5 °C / min and dye for 20 min. After that, cool down to 70 °C at a rate of 2 °C / min, carry out cold drainage, then wash with water at 80 °C for 20 min, and finally wash with normal-temperature water twice for 10 min each time and then drain the cloth;

[0072] (5) Setting

[0073] Select the EAG-2300-CBR-0 Taiwan Legen setting machine, set the input speed of the fabric at 15 yards / min, set the setting temperature at 170 °C, and obtain the spandex-free super-shrinking shoe upper after cooling after setting.

[0074] The spandex-free super-shrinking shoe upper prepared by this technical solution has passed the professional inspection of the Fujian Fiber Inspection Center, and this shoe upper has fully met the requirements of the Fujian Fiber Inspection Center. The details of the specific indicators are as follows:

[0075] Table 1 Detection data of the spandex-free super-shrinking shoe upper

[0076]

[0077]

[0078]

[0079] It can be seen from Table 1 that the dry rubbing, wet rubbing, sweat rubbing, and soaping color fastness of the shoe upper all reach levels 4-5, indicating that the color fastness of this shoe upper is very good; the light fastness is greater than level 4, and the weather resistance is very good; the bursting strength of the shoe upper is greater than 1000 kPa, and the tearing strength is relatively high, indicating that the strength of the shoe upper is good and meets the use requirements of shoe materials; the pilling resistance of the shoe upper reaches level 4, and the wear resistance reaches level 4. The flex resistance at normal temperature and low temperature is intact without damage, indicating that the shoe upper has very good wear resistance, flex resistance, and pilling resistance. All the detection indicators of the shoe upper meet the requirements of shoe material shoe uppers.

[0080] Although the present invention has been specifically shown and described in connection with preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art should understand that various changes can be made to the present invention in form and detail without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention defined by the appended claims, and all such changes are within the scope of protection of the present invention.

Claims

1. A preparation process for an ammonia-free super-shrinking shoe upper, characterized in that, It includes the following steps: S1. Selection of raw yarns: Use Sorona two-component composite filament DTY with a specification of 150D / 72F and Sorona two-component composite filament DTY with a specification of 200D / 72F; S2. Weave the raw yarns into a grey fabric by using a double jacquard warp knitting machine. The grey fabric is formed by knitting with five guide bars, namely GB1, GB2, GB3, GB4, and GB5; S3. Predetermine the shape of the grey fabric at 190 °C, then carry out dyeing treatment, and then determine the shape to obtain the spandex-free super-shrinkable shoe upper; The organizational structure of GB1 is 1-0 / 0-1 / / 1A; The organizational structure of GB2 is jacquard 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1A; The organizational structure of GB3 is jacquard 1-0-1-1 / 1-2-1-1 / / 1A; The organizational structure of GB4 is jacquard 1-2-1-1 / 1-0-1-1 / / 1B; The organizational structure of GB5 is jacquard 1-2-1-1 / 1-0-1-1 / / 1B; Let-off amount: GB1: 3.5 mm / row; GB2: 4.94 mm / row; GB3: 4.94 mm / row; GB4: 4.94 mm / row; GB5: 4.94 mm / row; Among them, A: Sorona two-component composite filament DTY of 150D / 72F, B: Sorona two-component composite filament DTY of 200D / 72F.

2. The preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinkable shoe upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: In step S3, the dyeing treatment adopts the high-temperature high-pressure overflow dyeing method.

3. The preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinking shoe upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: The specific process of the dyeing treatment is as follows: a. Preparation of dyeing agent: Use 0.0002% by mass of disperse red ACE, 0.0036% of disperse yellow ACE, 0.0026% of disperse blue ACE, and the balance is water to prepare the dye. The auxiliaries used are 1 g / L of high-temperature leveling agent NX-213 and 0.5 g / L of scouring and degreasing agent NX-2284; b. Yarn dyeing: First add the auxiliaries at room temperature, let it stand for 5 min, then add the dye and let it stand for 10 min. Adopt stepwise heating, rise to 100 °C at a speed of 1 °C / min, stay for 10 min, then rise to 130 °C at a speed of 1.5 °C / min and dye for 20 min. Then cool down to 70 °C at a speed of 2 °C / min, carry out cold drainage, then wash in water at 80 °C for 20 min, and finally wash twice in normal temperature water for 10 min each time and then drain the cloth.

4. The preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinking shoe upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: The horizontal density of the grey fabric is 11.6 wpc.

5. The preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinking shoe upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: The vertical density of the grey fabric is 17 cpc.

6. The preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinking shoe upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: The machine density of the grey fabric is 15 cpc.

7. The preparation process of an ammonia-free super-shrinking shoe upper according to claim 1, characterized in that: The gram weight of the greige cloth is 493 g / m 2 .

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