Cosmetic use of a lavandin extract as a protective or Anti-fatigue cosmetic agent
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2023714849
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-03-24
- Filing Date
- 2023-03-23
- Publication Date
- 2025-02-05
AI Technical Summary
Current cosmetic products lack effective solutions for addressing the visible effects of fatigue on the skin, such as loss of radiance, dull complexion, dark circles, and bags under the eyes, which are common issues for individuals experiencing stress, lack of sleep, or disrupted circadian rhythms.
A fat-soluble extract of lavandin, obtained through maceration of lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, is used as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase melatonin production, resynchronize circadian rhythms, and improve sleep quality, thereby reducing signs of skin fatigue and enhancing skin protection.
The lavandin extract effectively reduces dark circles, improves sleep duration, and synchronizes circadian rhythms, providing a cosmetic solution for treating and preventing skin fatigue signs without causing therapeutic effects on the skin.
Smart Images

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Abstract
Description
[0001] COSMETIC USE OF AN EXTRACT OF VANDIN AS A PROTECTIVE OR ANTI-FATIGUE COSMETIC AGENT
[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0003] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field, in particular to cosmetic agents for combating the effects of fatigue on the skin.
[0004] TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND
[0005] The skin is the body's primary barrier against external aggression. This organ is composed of several layers of tissue. There is the epidermis, which is the outermost part of the skin; the dermis, a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix, which provides cohesion and nutrition to the skin; and the hypodermis, which is made up of adipocytes.
[0006] The epidermis is made up of several cellular layers of keratinocytes. Among others, we distinguish the germinative layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer, containing, in particular, skin stem cells, the spinous layer, Stratum spinosum, made up of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer, Stratum granulosum, comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyaline grains, and finally, the horny layer, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleated and keratin-rich cells called comeocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of keratinocyte differentiation.
[0007] The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from a lower layer, in a process called desquamation. Cell regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation in which cells from the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the different layers of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum in the form of comeocytes.
[0008] The skin is usually the first to show signs of fatigue. Fatigue can be caused by many factors, such as lack of sleep, poor or unbalanced diet, overwork, intense or unsuitable work activity, or disruptions in the family sphere. Women who combine family life and work, and young working people in urban areas, are particularly at risk of chronic fatigue.
[0009] Individuals exposed to such fatigue may experience drawn features, a loss of radiance or even a dull complexion, dark circles and bags under the eyes. In other words, their face appears tired and marked, even unhealthy. However, projecting the image of a fit person can be a major concern for active individuals working, particularly in a competitive environment and / or in contact with customers.
[0010] However, there remains a need for new cosmetic active ingredients to prevent or treat the visible effects of fatigue on the skin.
[0011] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0012] The invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract, preferably liposoluble, of lavandin obtained by maceration of a lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as a protective cosmetic agent or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin.
[0013] Preferably, the extract according to the invention is used as an anti-fatigue agent for healthy skin.
[0014] Lavandin extract is typically an extract of a hybrid selected from Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Med k., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia. The fat-soluble extract of lavandin can be used as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase cutaneous melatonin production in healthy skin.
[0015] In a particular aspect, the liposoluble extract of lavandin can further be used as a cosmetic agent for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or as a cosmetic agent for promoting or promoting skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
[0016] According to an additional aspect, the lavender extract according to the invention can be used to improve sleep, in particular to increase the total duration of sleep, and / or reduce the time spent awake after falling asleep in a tired subject.
[0017] Preferably, the liposoluble extract of lavandin according to the invention is used in a tired individual, in whom the fatigue is not associated with or caused by a pathological condition.
[0018] For example, fatigue in an individual can be caused by one or more factors chosen from lack of sleep, jet lag, poor or unbalanced diet, alcohol consumption, lack or excess physical activity, a sedentary lifestyle, overwork, intense or unsuitable activity for work, night work or shift work, exposure to screens, and stress.
[0019] Lavandin extract can be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dullness, sallowness, loss of evenness of skin tone, drawn facial features, dark circles under the eyes, puffiness under the eyes, swollen eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, and combinations thereof.
[0020] In other embodiments, the lavandin extract may be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dullness, uneven skin tone, dullness, facial features, dark circles under the eyes, puffiness under the eyes, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof. The extract may also be used as a cosmetic agent to promote or improve skin protection against environmental stresses.
[0021] In some embodiments, the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time, and / or decrease wake time after falling asleep. In other embodiments, the extract is used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular following exposure to environmental stress. The extract can also be used to increase the production of melatonin in the skin.
[0022] In some embodiments, the lavandin extract comprises at least 8.0% sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute. The lavandin extract may in particular comprise from 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds selected from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-famesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol. at most 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0%, of linalool, at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably from 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate. the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute.
[0023] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention is capable of being obtained, or obtained, by a process comprising:
[0024] - a step comprising the maceration of a lavender plant material, preferably flowering tops, in a terpene solvent, the recovery of the liquid phase after maceration and the elimination of the terpene solvent from this liquid phase so as to obtain a concrete, and
[0025] - a step of removing the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain the extract. The terpene solvent used in the process may comprise at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds.
[0026] In some embodiments, the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, or serum.
[0027] Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises from 0.0005 to 0.05%, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said extract. The cosmetic composition may be chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, liposome suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses, and pomades.
[0028] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a tired individual, said process comprising the application of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract as defined above to the skin.
[0029] Typically, the lavandin extract is present in a cosmetic composition as defined in the present application. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic method is used to prevent, treat or reduce dark circles and the extract is applied to the eye contour. The cosmetic method may be carried out on an individual experiencing fatigue, said fatigue not being caused or associated with a pathological condition. According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic ingredient comprising a lavandin extract as defined in the present application, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. For example, the cosmetic ingredient may comprise, or consist of, 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of said lavandin extract in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
[0030] Lavandin extract is present in the cosmetic ingredient as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase cutaneous melatonin production in healthy skin and / or to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm in healthy skin, and / or as a cosmetic agent to promote or favor cutaneous protective mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
[0031] According to an additional aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the lavandin extract as defined in the present application, or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in the present application, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. The cosmetic composition may be chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, liposome suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses, and pomades.
[0032] The cosmetic composition may be a treatment for use in the treatment or prevention of skin fatigue, for example a serum, cream, mask or balm, preferably at night.
[0033] According to an additional aspect, the invention relates to the use of a lavandin extract or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in the present application in the manufacture of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition for increasing the cutaneous production of melatonin in healthy skin and / or for resynchronizing or preventing the non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or for promoting or favoring the cutaneous protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
[0034] Each of the aspects and embodiments described herein may be used together, unless explicitly excluded or clearly excluded from the context of the embodiment or aspect in question.
[0035] FIGURES
[0036] Figure 1 represents the protective effect of the lavandin extract according to the invention against UV stress on the expression of different genes involved in circadian rhythmicity in an ex-vivo study carried out on skin explants.
[0037] Figure 2 shows the effect of cutaneous application to the face of the lavender extract according to the invention on total sleep duration.
[0038] Figure 3 shows the effect of cutaneous application to the face of the lavender extract according to the invention on the duration of wakefulness after the onset of sleep.
[0039] Figure 4 shows the results of the evaluation of dark circles at T12h, D7 and D28 in relative percentage compared to D0 for the group treated with the “active” cream (Extract according to the invention) and the group treated with the placebo cream.
[0040] Statistical analysis: *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001.
[0041] DETAILED DESCRIPTION Melatonin is a hormone produced by the pineal gland (also called the epiphysis). Melatonin secretion is inhibited in the presence of light and stimulated when it is dark. Through melatonin, the pineal gland informs the brain about the relative durations of dark and light hours over a 24-hour period (daily cycle), but also throughout the year (seasonal cycle). Melatonin is called the "sleep hormone" and plays a central role in the regulation of chronobiological rhythms. This hormone is produced in different tissues. The process begins with Tryptophan, which is converted into serotonin via different enzymes, and finally transforms the latter into melatonin by the successive action of Arylalkylamine N-acetyltransferase and hydroxyindole-O-methyltransferase.
[0042] Melatonin can act on the skin in two different ways: receptor-independent and receptor-dependent. Melatonin is capable of acting as a cellular antioxidant, notably by directly trapping free radicals, but also indirectly by increasing the activity of antioxidant enzymes. This molecule, which has the potential to cross cell membranes, also acts to maintain and protect mitochondrial activity. Melatonin also has beneficial effects on the skin by activating melatonin receptors. Melatonin receptors are G-protein coupled receptors that exist in two subtypes in humans, namely MT1 and MT2. They are expressed in the brain but also at the peripheral level, particularly in the skin.
[0043] As a peripheral tissue located at the interface between the internal and external environments, the skin performs critical functions for the preservation of the body's homeostasis, in coordination with environmental changes. Some of these functions undergo daily variations, such as temperature or water loss, suggesting the presence of a specific circadian rhythm.
[0044] The Applicant was interested in a particular lavandin extract, obtained by extraction using a terpene solvent. This extract, and its method of obtaining, are described in French patent application no. 20 05014 (Publication no.: FR 3 110 422). Application FR 3 110 422 describes that this extract can be used as a skin soothing agent, in particular to relieve skin discomfort.
[0045] Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that this type of extract has other cosmetic activities, very different from those described in application FR 3 110 422. The Applicant has thus shown that this type of extract was capable of significantly increasing the expression of melatonin by keratinocytes in vitro. The Applicant has also shown that the Lavandin extract was capable of preventing the increase in the expression of clock genes such as Cry2 and Per2 in skin explants induced after UV irradiation. The same effect was observed for the Neatl and Neatl-2 genes which play a determining role in the regulation of these clock genes. The lavandin extract according to the invention is thus capable of resynchronizing or preventing the alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin, for example induced by exposure to environmental stress such as excessive exposure to UV.
[0046] Quite surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that the application of lavender extract in a very low concentration to the skin makes it possible to improve the quality of sleep in individuals with mild sleep disorders due to their lifestyle, in particular by increasing the total duration of sleep and reducing the time spent awake after falling asleep.
[0047] Finally, the Applicant has also shown that the extract according to the invention was capable of significantly reducing dark circles around the eyes in individuals with disturbed sleep cycles.
[0048] Thus, all of these results support the topical cosmetic use of the lavandin extract according to the invention as an anti-fatigue agent, that is to say to treat or prevent the cutaneous signs of fatigue, or as a skin protective agent, in particular to protect it against an alteration or desynchronization of the circadian rhythm following environmental stress.
[0049] Lavandin extract according to the invention
[0050] The invention relates to the cosmetic uses of lavandin extracts obtained by extraction using a terpene solvent. The extract according to the invention may in particular be a lavandin absolute. The lavandin extract according to the invention is preferably liposoluble.
[0051] Lavandula refers to any plant species belonging to the genus Lavandula. Lavandula species include lavender species and their hybrids, including lavandin.
[0052] Lavender species include, but are not limited to, Lavandula angustifolia Mill, (also known as true lavender), Lavandula latifolia Medik. (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as butterfly lavender).
[0053] Lavandula hybrids are defined as hybrids of plants belonging to the genus Lavandula, and in particular, lavender hybrids. Lavender species include, but are not limited to, Lavandula angustifolia Mill, (also known as true lavender), Lavandula latifolia Medik. (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as butterfly lavender). Preferably, lavender hybrids are hybrids resulting from the crossing of true lavender and spike lavender. These hybrids are known as Lavandula angustifolia Mill, x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia. There are several varieties of lavandin, including the varieties abrialis, grosso, super, and sumian.
[0054] In a preferred embodiment, the lavandin extract used according to the invention is a lavandin absolute obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent.
[0055] The extract used according to the invention may in particular be the absolute as described in application FR No. 20 05014, and / or may be obtained by the process as described in said application.
[0056] Specifically, the extract according to the invention may be obtained from one or more aerial parts of a lavandin plant. It may be an extract obtained from stems, flowers and / or flowering tops of a lavandin plant. In certain embodiments, the lavandin plant may be from organic farming.
[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained from flowering tops, preferably fresh, of lavandin.
[0058] The lavender extract according to the invention is cosmetically acceptable, that is to say it is not toxic when used at concentrations usual in cosmetic products.
[0059] As indicated above, the extract according to the invention is typically an absolute.
[0060] In the context of the present invention, the term "absolute" means any liposoluble extract of plant material that can be obtained by a process comprising: a) a step of extracting the plant material with a volatile solvent so as to obtain a concrete containing both odorous molecules and waxes, and b) a step of removing the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain the absolute. In the context of the present invention, step a) is preferably carried out by macerating the plant material from a lavandin plant in a terpene solvent.
[0061] The term "terpene solvent or solvent rich in terpene compounds" means a solvent having a content of at least 80%, preferably at least 85%, 90%, 95%, 98%, 99% or even 100% by weight of terpene derivatives.
[0062] It is preferably a terpene solvent which can be at least partially, or completely removed from the maceration medium by distillation under reduced pressure at a temperature below 150°C. The terpene solvent is preferably liquid at room temperature (for example at 20-25°C).
[0063] Terpene derivatives refer to terpenes and their derivatives, including terpenoid compounds. Terpenes are hydrocarbons resulting from the combination of several isoprene units. They are divided into several classes of compounds depending on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenes include monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, and triterpenes. Terpenes can be cyclic or acyclic.
[0064] Terpenoids are derivatives of terpenes that include additional functional groups, including one oxygen (e.g., an ester, alcohol, ketone, or etheroxide function) and / or fewer alkyl groups (e.g., one fewer methyl). Terpenoids include, but are not limited to, terpene alcohols (or monoterpenols), terpene ketones and aldehydes, terpene ethers, and terpene esters. Like terpenes, terpenoids are divided into several classes of compounds based on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenoids can be cyclic or acyclic.
[0065] In a particular embodiment, at least 60% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent are chosen from the group consisting of monoterpenes, monoterpenoids and mixtures thereof. For example, the monoterpenes and monoterpenoids may represent at least 80%, preferably at least 85% or even 90%, 95% or 98% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent. Preferably, the monoterpenoid compounds present in the solvent are chosen from monoterpenols and monoterpenol acetates.
[0066] Examples of monoterpenes include ocimene, myrcene, limonene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, camphene, terpinolene, and p-cymene.
[0067] Examples of monoterpenoids include terpene alcohols such as linalool, eucaplyptol, menthol, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, borneol, terpineols and acetate esters thereof, or terpene ketones and aldehydes such as citral, geranial, citronellal, camphor, and carvone.
[0068] The terpene solvent may consist of a mixture of terpene compounds, or be essentially composed (i.e. at least 95%, 96%, 98%, 99% or 100%) of a single terpene compound.
[0069] Preferably, it is a solvent comprising a mixture of terpene compounds, in which the monoterpenes and monoterpenoids represent at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight of the total terpene compounds present in the solvent.
[0070] The terpene solvent may be a synthetic solvent, that is, a solvent in which at least one of the terpene compounds it comprises has been prepared by chemical synthesis.
[0071] In a preferred embodiment, the terpene solvent is a natural solvent, i.e., a solvent prepared from plant, animal or microbial material. In other words, it is a bio-sourced solvent.
[0072] In a particular embodiment, the terpene solvent is prepared by a process of extraction from a natural material, preferably from a plant material known to contain terpene compounds, in particular monoterpene compounds. It may be a raw material originating from a plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family, for example mint, sage, thyme, oregano, lavender, lavandin, rosemary, to the Pinaceae family, in particular pines (genus Pinus), or even to the Rutaceae family, in particular species of the Citrus genus, for example lemon trees or orange trees. The starting plant material used to prepare the terpene solvent may consist of bark, berries, flowers, leaves, peels, resins including resinous oleoresins, rhizomes, roots, wood, seeds, needles, or even cell cultures, seedlings, and combinations thereof.For example, it may be a terpene solvent prepared by extraction of pine oleoresin, by extraction of citrus peel or zest or by extraction of flowers and / or leaves of a plant of the Lamiaceae family.
[0073] The terpene solvent may be prepared using any extraction method that allows the recovery of the volatile terpene compounds of interest, including monoterpenes and monoterpenoids. The extraction method may comprise one or more fractionation steps such as one or more solid-liquid extraction steps, using a volatile organic solvent, an extraction step by subcritical or supercritical fluid, including supercritical CO2, a mechanical extraction step, including cold expression, one or more distillation steps, for example hydrodistillation, steam distillation, fractional distillation or molecular distillation and combinations thereof. Several extraction and / or purification techniques may be combined to obtain a terpene solvent enriched in volatile monoterpene compounds.In some embodiments, the terpene solvent is a certified organic natural solvent, i.e. it has been prepared by an extraction process from a raw material originating from and certified by organic farming. Step a) can be carried out as follows: The plant material, preferably the flowering tops of lavandin, is covered with a terpene solvent as defined above. The plant material is left to macerate at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C for at least 90 min, generally for 60 to 120 min.
[0074] A sufficient volume of solvent is used to cover the plant material. The volume of solvent to be used is generally 1 to 10 liters per kg of plant material per maceration cycle and can vary depending on the starting plant material and the extractor used. After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered.
[0075] The maceration step can be repeated, typically 1 to 5 times, e.g. 1, 2 or 3 times. At the end of the first maceration, the plant material is recovered and returned to macerate in the fresh or recycled solvent. After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered and combined with the liquid phase recovered at the end of the first maceration. Preferably, a terpene solvent of the same composition is used in the different maceration steps. The maceration time may be shorter in the additional maceration step(s).
[0076] The terpene solvent is removed from the liquid phase by distillation under reduced pressure and is generally recycled for further extraction. The distillation residue constitutes the concrete, which is in a pasty or solid form rich in odorous molecules and waxes.
[0077] Step b) aims to remove the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the absolute, i.e. the desired extract. Different strategies can be used to remove the waxes, i.e. to obtain the absolute on one side and the waxes on the other.
[0078] The absolute can be recovered by carrying out a fractional extraction of the concrete by supercritical CO2: the constituent molecules of the absolute are carried by the supercritical fluid and recovered selectively by modulating the temperature and pressure of the supercritical fluid.
[0079] An alternative solution is to remove the waxes by taking advantage of their difference in solubility in hot and cold alcohol. In this case, the concrete is taken up in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic solution titrated to at least 90% alcohol. The resulting solution is homogenized, if necessary hot (for example at a temperature below 60°C) then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. The waxes can be removed by filtration. The absolute is then obtained from the collected filtrate by removing the alcohol, for example by concentration under vacuum.
[0080] In step b), some of the odorant molecules of interest may be trapped in the precipitated waxes, and therefore lost. In order to improve the absolute yield, an additional step can be carried out to recover the odorant molecules trapped in the precipitated waxes. Typically, the precipitated waxes are taken up in alcohol or in the hydroalcoholic solution, homogenized while hot, precipitated while cold and filtered. The filtrate obtained is combined with the filtrate from step b). This step can be repeated until satisfactory exhaustion of the waxes is obtained.
[0081] The alcohol used in step b) and in the optional wax exhaustion step may be any type of lower C2-C5 alcohol, in particular ethanol or an alcoholic solution titrated to 90% alcohol. Preferably, a bio-sourced ethanol (i.e. a bioethanol) or a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 90% by volume of bio-sourced ethanol is used in step b).
[0082] Steps a) and / or b) can be repeated as needed, for example to increase yield.
[0083] The process for preparing the lavender extract (or absolute) according to the invention may comprise one or more additional steps to those previously mentioned, in particular steps of washing and / or grinding the starting plant material or even additional purification steps, for example by extraction by supercritical CO2, molecular distillation or fractional distillation, by precipitation and / or by extraction, in particular liquid-liquid or solid-liquid extraction.
[0084] In some embodiments, the method does not include additional purification steps in steps a) and b).
[0085] The method may also comprise a step of formulating the extract, for example by adding one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, in particular a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or support. For example, the extract used according to the invention may be diluted in a suitable organic or vegetable solvent, for example triethyl citrate, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, or a vegetable oil of an oleaginous plant, encapsulated in a vectorization system, for example liposomes, or adsorbed onto a solid vehicle.
[0086] As indicated above, in a preferred embodiment, the lavandin extract is obtained by maceration of a plant material derived from lavandin, preferably from flowering tops of lavandin.
[0087] In a particular embodiment, the lavandin extract used according to the invention comprises at least 8% sesquiterpene compounds. Preferably, the lavandin extract comprises from 10.0% to 20.0% sesquiterpene compounds chosen from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-farnesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol. The lavandin extract used according to the invention may in particular comprise from 3.0% to 7.0% beta-caryophyllene, from 1.0% to 4.0% bisabolol, at least 2.0% trans-beta farnesene and at least 0.5% gamma-cadinene,
[0088] In some embodiments, the lavandin extract used according to the invention comprises less than 30.0%, preferably less than 25.0% of linalool, eucalyptol, camphor and borneol. The linalool content is typically less than 20.0%, preferably 6.0% to 18.0% or 8.0% to 16%.
[0089] The extract used according to the invention may further comprise at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate. The absolute may also comprise at least 20%, preferably 25% to 40% linalyl acetate.
[0090] The above-mentioned percentages correspond to the percentage of area of the peak (or peaks) corresponding to the chemical compound of interest (or chemical compounds of interest) relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis, preferably carried out according to the conditions described in example 2.
[0091] In certain embodiments, the extract according to the invention (also called absolute according to the invention) comprises: from 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds chosen from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-famesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol. at most 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0%, of linalool, at least 3.5% of lavandulyl acetate, preferably from 4.0% to 7.0% of lavandulyl acetate. the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute.
[0092] Uses according to the invention
[0093] The subject of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of the lavender extract as described above as a protective or anti-fatigue agent for the skin, and more particularly, for treating or preventing one or more signs of skin fatigue.
[0094] The lavender extract according to the invention is typically incorporated into a cosmetic composition before being applied to the skin.
[0095] For the purposes of the invention, the terms "skin" and "cutaneous" refer to any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the neck, and the skin of the hands. Preferably, this is the skin on the face, including the eye contour and the lip contour, and on the neck.
[0096] In the context of the present invention, said lavandin extract is typically applied topically, preferably to skin or mucous membrane. This is healthy skin or mucous membrane, i.e. skin or mucous membrane not presenting wounds or skin pathologies. In particular, said lavandin extract, or the cosmetic composition comprising it, is applied to non-acneic skin (i.e. not suffering from acne), not presenting wounds, in particular resulting from insect bites, or skin infections, e.g. caused by a fungus (mycosis), a bacterium or a protozoan. In other words, the extract or composition used according to the invention does not produce a therapeutic effect on the skin, when it is used according to the invention.
[0097] The extract according to the invention is used as an agent exerting a cosmetic effect on the skin.
[0098] The term "cosmetic effect" means any non-therapeutic effect, aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, or at protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemical products), for example to prevent and / or correct phenomena linked to their aging or to prevent or treat non-pathological effects caused by fatigue on the skin.
[0099] In certain embodiments, the term “cosmetic effect” means any non-therapeutic effect, aimed at modifying and / or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips.
[0100] According to certain embodiments, a “cosmetic effect” does not include protecting the skin and mucous membranes from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemical products), and / or preventing and / or correcting phenomena linked to their aging.
[0101] According to other embodiments, the extract according to the invention is not used to provide an anti-aging effect, in particular anti-wrinkle, and / or a soothing or protective effect on sensitive, reactive and / or topical skin.
[0102] An "anti-fatigue agent" means a cosmetic agent capable of preventing, treating or alleviating the "cutaneous effects or signs" of fatigue, i.e. the effects of fatigue on the skin.
[0103] In the context of the present invention, "skin signs or effects" means any non-pathological alteration or modification of the visual appearance or mechanical properties of the skin. In the context of the present invention, "skin signs or effects" are caused by, or associated with, fatigue. "Preventing a sign or effect" means delaying or preventing the appearance of said sign or effect on the skin. "Treating a sign or effect" means reducing, attenuating, fading, correcting or slowing the development of said sign or effect on the skin.The sign(s) of skin fatigue may, for example, be a loss of skin radiance, a dull complexion, a blurred complexion, a loss of evenness of complexion, drawn facial features, dark circles under the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, a loss of elasticity, a loss of density, a loss of firmness, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof.
[0104] In a preferred embodiment, the sign(s) of skin fatigue may, for example, be a loss of skin radiance, a dull complexion, a sallow complexion, a loss of evenness of skin tone, drawn facial features, dark circles under the eyes, bags under the eyes, puffy eyelids, and combinations thereof.
[0105] In one aspect, the sign(s) of skin fatigue does not include loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the cutaneous effect(s) of skin fatigue is / are selected from loss of skin radiance, dullness, uneven skin tone, drawn facial features, dark circles under the eyes, puffiness under the eyes, and puffy eyelids.
[0106] In certain embodiments, the Lavandula absolute used according to the invention can be used for at least one (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10) of the following purposes: a) Preventing, treating or reducing dark circles and / or bags around the eyes, b) Preventing, treating or reducing swelling of the eyelids, c) Preventing, treating or reducing irregularities in skin pigmentation, including pigment spots induced by fatigue, d) Homogenizing or unifying the complexion of the face, e) Making the complexion of the face brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer, f) Preventing or treating a dull complexion, a blurred complexion and / or drawn features, g) Making the skin, especially on the face, fresher and brighter, h) Soothing the features of the face, i) Making the appearance of the skin less tired, more relaxed, more fresh j) Make the look less tired, more rested and brighter, k) Promote or accelerate the recovery of the epidermis,particularly on the face, l) Revitalize the skin, particularly on the face, m) Promote a healthy glow, n) Prevent, treat, or reduce a loss of firmness of the skin, particularly on the face, and / or o) Prevent, treat, delay, or reduce the appearance of wrinkles or fine lines.,
[0107] It goes without saying that the non-pathological alterations listed above are associated with or caused by fatigue on the skin.
[0108] In the above list, the preferred cosmetic effects sought are one or more of effects a)-g) and i)-m).
[0109] In the context of the present invention, the fatigue causing the non-pathological modifications or alterations of the skin can be of any type. It can be temporary or chronic fatigue. This includes fatigue caused by one or more factors, particularly environmental ones. It can be factors such as lack of sleep, for example due to the work schedule or family situation (e.g. birth of a child), sleep disorders or jet lag, poor or unbalanced diet, alcohol consumption, lack or excess physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, intense or unsuitable activity for work, night work or shift work, significant exposure to screens, stress, anxiety or anxieties related to professional or family life.
[0110] Fatigue can also result from physiological situations such as pregnancy or menopause.
[0111] Preferably, the fatigue is not associated with or caused by a pathological condition in the individual. In the context of the present invention, the term "protective agent" means a cosmetic agent capable of maintaining the circadian rhythm of the skin and / or preventing an alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular induced by stress, for example environmental stress such as exposure to the sun, wind, humidity, dryness or chemicals or processes such as abrasion, rays, etc., or even stress linked to lifestyle (jet lag, lack of sleep, night work, etc.).
[0112] By maintaining the skin's circadian rhythm, in particular by preventing alterations in the skin's circadian rhythm, the extract according to the invention makes it possible to indirectly prevent the cutaneous effects caused by fatigue or caused by exposure to environmental stress or resulting from lifestyle.
[0113] The Extract according to the invention is capable of preventing the increase in the expression of clock genes such as Cry2 and Per2 in skin explants subjected to UV irradiation. The same effect was observed for the Neatl and Neatl-2 genes which play a determining role in the regulation of these clock genes. According to another aspect, the lavandin extract according to the invention is used to maintain or prevent the alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin, for example induced by exposure to environmental stress, for example excessive exposure to UV. Said lavandin extract can also be used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize the circadian rhythm of the skin. In particular, the lavandin extract according to the invention can be used to regulate the expression of genes involved in the circadian cycle such as the clock genes Cry2, and Per2, and / or Neatl and Neatl-2.
[0114] It has also been shown that said lavandin extract is capable of increasing the expression of melatonin in keratinocytes. Thus, in a particular embodiment, said lavandin extract can also be used as a cosmetic agent to increase the production of melatonin in the skin. The lavandin extract according to the invention can be used as an agent to potentiate the effect of melatonin in the skin. As illustrated in the examples, the application of said lavandin extract to the skin at a very low concentration, in particular not perceptible by smell, makes it possible to improve sleep.
[0115] In an additional or alternative aspect, said lavandin extract is used to improve sleep, in particular to increase total sleep time and / or decrease wake time after sleep onset (also called WASO for “Wake time After Sleep Onset”).
[0116] According to an additional embodiment, said lavandin extract is used to promote or promote skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase.
[0117] According to an additional aspect, said lavender extract is used as a skin protective or anti-fatigue agent in an individual exposed to fatigue, in particular chronic fatigue.
[0118] In a preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is not applied to so-called sensitive, reactive, or intolerant skin, or skin with atopic tendency.
[0119] The term "sensitive, reactive or intolerant skin" means skin characterized by a disproportionate reactivity to external factors that causes skin discomfort. This increased reactivity may result from a non-pathological alteration of the skin's barrier function that reduces the skin's tolerance threshold to external stimuli. The term "atopic-prone skin" means sensitive skin in an individual who has suffered from atopic dermatitis, and / or has an allergic background, i.e., has a history of allergies and / or has a family history of allergies. More generally, the absolute according to the invention is not used as an anti-inflammatory agent or as a soothing or calming agent, i.e., an agent capable of relieving, i.e., reducing or preventing, skin discomfort.
[0120] In the uses according to the invention, the lavandin extract is incorporated as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, a balm, a mask, a serum or a lotion, as described below. The concentration of said extract in such a cosmetic composition is advantageously low, so that it is not perceptible by smell. Typically, this concentration is from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said absolute.
[0121] It goes without saying that the uses according to the invention are intended for individuals exposed to fatigue as defined above. The individuals targeted by the present invention may be of any age and gender. In a preferred embodiment, it is an individual under 65 years of age. It may be, for example, a woman or a man aged 25 to 65, in particular 25 to 55. For example, it is a woman aged 25 to 45.
[0122] Cosmetic compositions used according to the invention
[0123] The lavandin extract described in the present application is typically incorporated as a cosmetic agent, more precisely as a regenerative, restorative or anti-fatigue agent. In other words, said extract is typically applied to the skin of the individual to be treated by means of a cosmetic composition.
[0124] A cosmetic ingredient or precursor composition comprising said extract may be previously prepared and then incorporated into the cosmetic composition.
[0125] Such a cosmetic ingredient or such a precursor composition may for example be a composition comprising from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of the lavandin extract as described in the present application, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
[0126] The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be of any type. For example, it may be a cosmetically acceptable solvent, particularly lower alcohols, including ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, an aqueous solution thereof, or a mixture thereof.
[0127] Preferably, said vehicle is pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
[0128] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic ingredient according to the invention consists essentially of or consists of the lavandin extract according to the invention in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle chosen from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin. The lavandin extract is preferably present in a content of 0.1% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient.
[0129] The cosmetic composition used according to the invention comprises said lavandin extract, preferably as a cosmetic agent, or the cosmetic ingredient or said precursor composition described above, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
[0130] The cosmetically acceptable excipient(s) present in the composition may be chosen from diluting agents, dispersing agents, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents (such as polycationic polymers, phospholipids, unilamellar or multilamellar liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, lamellar systems, nanosomes, lipid or polymer vesicles, nanospheres, micro or nano-particles of natural or non-natural polymers, hydrogels), gums, resins, solvents, in particular lower alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, fillers such as modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide, or a metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, agents pearlescent, colorants, odor absorbers,pH regulating agents or neutralizing agents, lubricating agents, thickening agents, hydrotropes such as surfactants including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, humectants, wetting agents, stabilizing agents, fillers, dispersing agents, perfumes, organic or mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petroleum jelly, silicone oils (cyclomethicone), fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentones, metallic salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylenes, mica, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, vehicles such as mineral, thermal or floral water, and / or other substances commonly used in formulation in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.,
[0131] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.0005 to 0.05%, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said lavandin extract.
[0132] More particularly, said cosmetic composition may comprise:
[0133] - from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said lavender extract, and
[0134] - from 99.95% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. In another embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprises from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, of said precursor composition.
[0135] More particularly, said cosmetic composition may comprise:
[0136] - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight of said precursor composition, and
[0137] - from 95% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition further comprises one or more additional active agents with cosmetic effect(s). The term "active ingredient with cosmetic effect, active agent with cosmetic effect, cosmetic agent or active with cosmetic effect" means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The term "cosmetic effect" means any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and / or improving the visual appearance and mechanical properties of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals), preventing and / or correcting phenomena linked to their aging, or preventing or treating the effects caused by stress or fatigue on the skin.
[0138] Examples of such agents are, among others, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-aging agents, antioxidant agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, anti-redness agents, decongestant agents, scrubbing or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active ingredients, anti-blemish active ingredients, anti-dark circle or anti-puffiness agents, anti-stress agents, anti-fatigue agents, anti-pollution active ingredients, tightening agents, sun filters and screens, and combinations thereof.
[0139] In particular, the cosmetic composition may include tocopherols, and / or plant extracts such as flax seed extracts, Vibrio exopolysaccharide extracts, peptides such as trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2.
[0140] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition may comprise an active ingredient chosen from an anti-wrinkle agent, an anti-redness agent, an antioxidant agent, a moisturizing active ingredient, a soothing agent, a sebum-regulating agent, an anti-blemish or lightening agent, a tightening agent, an anti-pollution active ingredient, an anti-smoothing or anti-puffiness agent, a filter or a sunscreen, and combinations thereof.
[0141] Examples of anti-pollution agents include Chrysanthellum Indicum extracts, polysaccharides, particularly marine polysaccharides derived from an Alter omonas fermentation medium, and Nigari salts. Examples of anti-ceme agents include Chrysantellum Indicum extracts, or extracts and sulfated polysaccharides from algae, particularly Ascophyllum nodosum or Asparagopsis Armata.
[0142] Examples of moisturizing agents include urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper (Copper PCA), magnesium (magnesium PCA), sodium (sodium PCA) or zinc salts, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, frucose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, silk, keratin or soy hydrolysates, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and / or polyphenols, for example extracts of Aloe, cornflower (Centaurea cyanus), extracts rich in polysaccharides,in particular from fermentation media of marine microorganisms such as Alteromonas and combinations thereof.,
[0143] Examples of anti-aging agents include ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosaminoglycans and their derivatives, Cyathea polysaccharides, collagen, flax seed extracts (Linum usitatissimum), peptides such as Caprooyl-Tetrapeptide-3 and trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, Polygonum aviculare extracts, brown algae extracts, particularly Ascophyllum nodosum, fern extracts, particularly Cyathea cumingii.
[0144] Examples of anti-stress agents include Rosality™ (a combination of rose water and rose essential oil) and rose rockrose extract, for example, marketed under the brand name IBR-Chill™.
[0145] Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, extracts of aloe, birch (e.g. Betula a! ha), epilobe (Epilobium angustifolium), chestnut (e.g. Castenea saliva), blueberry (e.g. centa centella centella). asialica), fennel (e.g. Equisetum arvense), fennel (e.g. Foeniculum vulgare), willow (e.g. Hamamelis virginiana), lily (e.g. Hedera helix), Chahiscus sabdariffa, lily (e.g. Lilium candidum), mauve exhibit (e.g. (e.g. Melissa officinalis), scutellaire (e.g. Scutellaria baicalensis), mimosa (e.g. Mimosa tenuiflora), potentille (e.g. Potentilla erecta), an oligosaccharide extract or an oligosaccharide, e.g., flaxseed, palmito-8 peptides, trimeric peptides polysaccharides,in particular extracts of exopolysaccharides from the fermentation medium of Alter omonas and combinations thereof.,
[0146] Examples of antioxidant agents include HMR (hydroxy methyl resorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, or an extract of willow herb (Epilobium augustifolium). Active ingredients with an antioxidant and vitamin-type effect are generally used in a mass percentage of at least 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0147] Examples of sebum-regulating agents include flax lignans, rice powder, zinc gluconate, sarcosine, Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract, avocado extract, Backhousia citriodora extract, and combinations thereof.
[0148] Examples of anti-redness agents include saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example Rusais extracts, as well as certain essential oils, for example lavender or rosemary.
[0149] Examples of anti-stain agents include extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), jackfruit extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Rumex extract (R.occidentalis), plant extracts belonging to the citrus genus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.
[0150] In a particular embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprises from 0% to 30% by weight, for example from 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.
[0151] In a more particular embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprises:
[0152] - from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said lavender extract,
[0153] - from 69.95% to 99.9995% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and
[0154] - from 0% to 30% by weight, for example from 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.
[0155] In a more particular embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprises:
[0156] - 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight of the precursor composition or cosmetic ingredient as described above,
[0157] - from 65% to 99.5% by weight of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, and - from 0% to 30% by weight, for example from 0 to 15% by weight, of one or more additional cosmetic active agents.
[0158] The lavender extract as described in the present application, the precursor composition, or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it, can be incorporated into any type of cosmetic composition. Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be of any type.In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, the drop size of which is typically less than 100 nm, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses, balms, and pomades.
[0159] In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition is a cream, a balm, a mask, a serum or a lotion. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a serum, a cream, a mask or a balm, preferably for night use.
[0160] A further object of the present invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating the signs of skin fatigue in an individual, said method comprising applying a cosmetically effective amount of the lavandin extract as described above, or a cosmetic composition as described above to the skin.
[0161] The cosmetic process according to the invention aims to treat or prevent one or more cutaneous effects of fatigue, preferably chosen from an alteration of the skin complexion, in particular a dull complexion, a dull complexion, a loss of radiance of the complexion or a loss of uniformity of the complexion, in particular the appearance of pigmentation spots, drawn facial features, the appearance of bags and / or dark circles around the eyes, swollen eyelids, a loss of density, a loss of firmness, the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and combinations thereof.
[0162] The method according to the invention can make it possible to obtain any of the following effects in an individual exposed to fatigue:
[0163] - Prevent, treat or reduce dark circles and / or puffiness around the eyes,
[0164] - Prevent, treat or reduce eyelid swelling
[0165] - Prevent, treat or reduce irregularities in skin pigmentation, including pigment spots caused by fatigue, - Even out or unify facial complexion,
[0166] - Make the complexion of the face brighter and / or more radiant and / or clearer,
[0167] - Prevent or treat a dull complexion, a sallow complexion and / or drawn features,
[0168] - Make the skin, especially on the face, fresher and brighter,
[0169] - Soothe facial features,
[0170] - Make the skin look less tired, more relaxed, fresher
[0171] - Make the look less tired, more rested and brighter,
[0172] - Promote or accelerate the recovery of the epidermis, particularly on the face,
[0173] - Revitalize the skin, especially on the face,
[0174] - Promote a healthy glow, and / or
[0175] - Prevent, treat, delay, or reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles,
[0176] In the above list, the preferred cosmetic effects sought are one or more of effects a)-g) and i)-m)
[0177] In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the combination according to the invention vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the characteristics of the individual, in particular their sex, age and skin type. Typically, said lavandin extract, or the cosmetic composition comprising it, can be applied to the area to be treated once a day, preferably before bedtime, for several consecutive weeks or even several months, for example at least for 3 months. For example, the patient can apply a dose of 1 g to 2 g of cosmetic composition to their face in the evening.
[0178] General definitions:
[0179] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art of the technical field of this application.
[0180] This application is not limited by the exemplary methods, uses, and compositions described herein, and any methods, uses, and compositions similar or equivalent to those described herein may be used in the embodiments of the present application.
[0181] The headings and section titles provided herein are not to be construed as limitations on the various aspects or embodiments of this application. The headings and section titles are used herein for organizational purposes only and are not to be construed as limiting the disclosed invention. All defined terms are more fully defined by reference to the application as a whole. All publications, including patent documents and scientific articles, referred to in this application are incorporated by reference in their entirety to the same extent as if each individual publication were individually incorporated by reference. Citation of such publications should in no way be construed as an admission that such publications constitute prior art.If any definition set forth in this application is contrary to or inconsistent with a definition set forth in the patents, applications, published applications, and other publications that are incorporated herein by reference, the definition set forth in this application prevails over the definition that is incorporated by reference.
[0182] All features described in this application may be combined in any combination. Each feature described in this application may be replaced by another feature having the same, equivalent, or similar purpose. Thus, unless expressly stated otherwise, each feature disclosed is only one example of a generic series of equivalent or similar features.
[0183] Definitions of terms may appear throughout the description. It should be understood that this description is not limited to the particular embodiments described, as these may, of course, vary. It should also be understood that the terminology used herein is for the sole purpose of describing particular embodiments and is not intended to be limiting.
[0184] It should be noted that, as used herein and in the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. For example, "a" or "an" include "at least one" and "one or more."
[0185] The terms "comprising," "comprises," and "composed of" as used herein are synonymous with "including," "includes," "containing," "contains," and grammatical variations thereof. These terms are inclusive or open-ended and do not preclude the presence of additional, uncited members, elements, or process steps.
[0186] Where a range of values is provided, it is understood that each intermediate value between the upper and lower bounds of that range is also specifically disclosed and encompassed in this description.
[0187] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following examples, which should be considered as illustrative and in no way as limiting.
[0188] EXAMPLES
[0189] Example 1: Preparation of a lavandin extract. Fresh flowering tops of organically grown lavandin (Lavandula angustifolia Mill x Lavandula latifolia Medik) were macerated in a bio-sourced terpene solvent, also certified organic, comprising approximately 80 to 90% monoterpene compounds (approximately 2 to 10 L per kg of flowers) at a temperature of 50°C for at least 90 min. The mixture was decanted and the liquid phase and the flowers were separated. The flowers were macerated once more in the terpene solvent for 90 minutes at 50°C. The liquid phases of the two macerations were combined and the terpene solvent was distilled under reduced pressure to obtain the concrete
[0190] The concrete was then taken up in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized, slightly heated and then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. The mixture was then filtered.
[0191] The filtrate was collected. The waxes were taken up in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized while hot, cooled to precipitate the waxes and filtered. This step was repeated twice.
[0192] The collected filtrates are combined and the solvent evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain the extract (also called absolute). The overall yield is generally between 9 and 16%.
[0193] Example 2: characterization of lavandin extract
[0194] - GC / FID analysis
[0195] The extracts are characterized by gas chromatography coupled with flame ionization detector (GC / FID) analysis. The analysis conditions are as follows:
[0196] GC / FID analyses were performed with an Agilent 6890 instrument (Agilent Technologies) equipped with a flame ionization detector (FID), a liquid autosampler, and an HP-1MS capillary column (100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60 mx 0.15 mm id, film thickness 0.25 μm; Agilent Technologies). The oven temperature was maintained at 60°C for 10 min, then programmed from 60 to 300°C with 2°C / min, and finally 300°C for 10 min. The injector and detector temperatures were 250°C and 300°C, respectively; H2 (1.0 ml / min) as the carrier gas; split injection (1:50); injected volume 0.1 ml. The O2, H2, and FID makeup gas flow rates were 350, 35, and 20 mL / min, respectively.
[0197] The table below shows the distribution of volatile compounds present in the lavender extract according to the invention. For each compound, the percentage indicated corresponds to the percentage of peak area corresponding to the chemical compound of interest relative to the total area of the peaks in the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis.
[0198] Table 1: Composition of a lavender extract according to the invention (GC / FID analysis)
[0199] Example 3: Increased melatonin production in keratinocytes
[0200] The aim of this study was to detect the presence of melatonin in a keratinocyte cell culture and to demonstrate that lavandin extract can increase its synthesis.
[0201] Protocol:
[0202] At t = 0, keratinocytes were seeded into flasks in culture medium and incubated for 5 days with renewal of the culture medium after 4 days. At t = 5 days, after amplification to reach ~20xl O 6 cells / flask, the medium was then replaced with treatment medium containing or not (control) the extract of Example 1 (0.0005%) and the cells were incubated for 48 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in n=2. At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were collected. The cells were detached and after a centrifugation step, the cell pellets were washed with phosphate buffered saline (PB S) and frozen dry at -80°C.
[0203] Melatonin was extracted from the cell pellets and quantified by LC-MS / MS. After returning to room temperature, the pellets were washed twice with 250 μL of water and placed in a tube. An internal standard solution (100 μL), 1 mL of saturated saline (sodium chloride), and 3 mL of dichloromethane were then added. The mixture was stirred at room temperature for 10 min and centrifuged for 3 min at 4500 rpm. The lower organic phase was collected and placed in a new tube. Evaporation to dryness under nitrogen at 40°C was then performed. The upper aqueous phase was collected, and 3 mL of dichloromethane was added. The mixture was stirred for 10 min at room temperature and centrifuged for 5 min at 4500 rpm. The lower organic phase was recovered and pooled with the previous organic phase. Dry evaporation under nitrogen at 40°C was then carried out.The residue was suspended in 500 pL of methanol to dissolve and then evaporated to dryness under nitrogen at 40°C. The residue was then suspended in 50 pL of methanol for analysis. The analytical method used was liquid chromatography coupled with MS / MS detection.
[0204] The equipment used was as follows: HPLC system 1100 series (Agilent) coupled with a CTC injector and a Quattro Micro API triple quadrupole mass spectrometer detector (Waters) Masslynx 4.0 software (Control, Acquisition, Implementation - Waters). The following parameters were retained: Column: RP18, Column temperature: 30 °C, Mobile phase: Water + 0.2% acetic acid / Methanol + 0.2% acetic acid, Elution mode: Gradient, Injection volume: 20 pL, Run time: 20 minutes, MS detection: ESI, Polarity: Positive, Acquisition mode: MRM, Mass Transition m / z: Melatonin: 232 174;
[0205] Melatonin d4: 236 -> 177.
[0206] Results :
[0207] Melatonin was detected on NHEK cells with an average of 30.95 ng / 20xl0 6 cells. When the cells were treated with lavandin absolute, an increase of 2.10xl0 6 ng / cell (+6.8%) of melatonin was observed, compared to the control.
[0208] EXAMPLE 4: Modulation of circadian rhythm genes on skin explants
[0209] Protocol: The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of the extract according to the invention on skin explants and to demonstrate its protective activity on different genes of the circadian rhythm of the skin.
[0210] On an abdominoplasty from a 46-year-old Caucasian woman (reference: P2471-AB46, phototype II-III (according to the Fitzpatrick classification of skin color), 51 explants with an average diameter of 11 mm (+ 1 mm) were prepared. The explants were kept alive in BEM (BIO-EC's Explants Medium) at 37°C in a humid atmosphere with 5% CO2 for 2 days. On day 0, day 1 and day 2, the explants were treated with the placebo (group "E-UV" or "E") or the extract according to the invention (group "Extract-UV") topically on the skin surface of the corresponding explants at a rate of 2 μL per cm 2 explant (~ 2mg / cm 2). On day 2, the culture medium was then replaced with a HBSS solution and the explants were irradiated (group "E-UV" and "extract-UV") or not (group "E") by UV with a dose of 13.5 J / cm2 of UVA corresponding to 3 MED (minimal erythemal dose) and a dose of 0.15 J / cm2 of UVB corresponding to 1 MED. At the end of the irradiation, the culture medium was added instead of HBSS. On day 3, the explants were fixed in RNAlater before RNA extraction using ReliaPrep™ RNA Tissue Miniprep System (fibrous) from Promega. The quality and concentration of RNAs were evaluated before performing the reverse transcriptase step with iScript (Bio-Rad, 20pl / reaction). With the help of a spike control, the ACq was calculated. The benchmarks evaluated for each qPCR reaction using CFX Manager 3.1 software are as follows:
[0211] -The logarithmic curve of amplification for each sequence of interest.
[0212] - Melting curves are fluorescence intensities recorded after the last cycle. The temperature increases from 65° to 96°C with an increment of 0.5°C every 5 seconds.
[0213] -The curves representing the inverse of the derivative of the fluorescence signal as a function of temperature (in °C), allow a single amplicon to be verified.
[0214] All samples were subjected to gene expression profiling analysis. For quantification, cycle number was normalized to the reference gene B2M:
[0215] (i) Cq (relative quantity) per sample and per gene = E (gene) (Cq (control) - Cq (treated)) E = efficiency of primer pairs = (% efficiency*0.01) + 1
[0216] Cq (control) = the quantitative threshold calculated by the CFX Maestro in "regression" mode for the control condition.
[0217] Cq (treated) = the quantitative threshold calculated by the CFX Maestro in "regression" mode for the treated condition. gene = target gene
[0218] (ii) Normalized target gene expression = NE
[0219] NE=Expression of normalized sample (gene) = Cq sample (gene) / ((Cq sample (ref 1) * Cq sample (ref 2)) 1 / n
[0220] Cq = relative quantity the denominator corresponds to the normalization factor including the two reference genes: ref 1 = B2M gene =target gene For each gene of interest, values were calculated between treatment samples in triplicate versus control samples of paired explants in triplicate for each kinetic time point. A gene was considered induced if its expression showed an increase greater than or equal to 1.5 compared to the control (fold-change >1.5). Similarly, a gene was considered repressed if it showed a significant reduction in its expression compared to the control. Furthermore, when homogeneous gene modulation is maintained between biological triplicates, a P value <0.05 (according to the T test) is indicated by an asterisk.
[0221] Results: During this study, it was found that UV induced a strong increase in the expression of the genes Cry2, Per2 as well as Neatl and Neatl-2, (control group E-UV, not treated with the extract according to the invention) compared to the condition without UV (group E). This effect was prevented by treating the explant with the extract according to the invention (Extract-UV group). Indeed, the extract significantly prevented the increase in the expression of several genes regulating the circadian cycle such as Cry2, Per2 induced by UV exposure, to tend towards the level of expression of the condition E. This demonstrates that the extract according to the invention protects the skin against deregulation of the circadian cycle of the skin induced by environmental stress. In addition, a strong and significant inhibition of the expression of the genes Neatl and Neatl-2 was also observed compared to the UV condition.These genes are notably involved in the regulation of circadian cycle genes to enable their rhythmicity.
[0222] All of these results support the use of the extract according to the invention as an anti-fatigue agent, protecting the skin (Figure 1).
[0223] Table 2: Results of gene modulation on skin explant
[0224] Example 5: Improved sleep
[0225] Protocol: 32 healthy participants (16 men, 22-56 years, median age 41.5 years) with self-reported mild sleep disturbances caused by lifestyle factors, but without a diagnosis of clinical sleep disorder were selected. The study consisted of the evaluation of 2 facial cream samples, 1 “active” cream and a “placebo cream”, used separately over 3 weeks:
[0226] - “Active” cream: generic unscented face cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract of Example 1, in pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve),
[0227] - Placebo cream: generic cream (see example 6, table 3 below) unscented for the face containing 1% pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve) alone.
[0228] Devices: For objective sleep measures, participants used the SleepScore Max device (SleepScore Labs, Carlsbad, CA), a non-contact monitoring device that uses respiratory signal and movement detection to detect sleep and has been validated by polysomnography (PSG), a standard method of sleep measurement. All self-reported data were collected using Compusense, a web-based data collection software.
[0229] Study design and procedure:
[0230] - Randomized, counterbalanced, context-controlled study using an unscented control cream
[0231] - Participants applied the creams at bedtime, in their natural sleeping environment.
[0232] - The study lasted from Sunday evening to Friday morning for 3 consecutive weeks.
[0233] - Participants used a different sample each week. The control sample was used during the second week. Table 3 shows an overview of the study design.
[0234] - For each night of the study, participants completed daily questionnaires and tracked their sleep using the SleepScore Max device.
[0235] Table 3: description of the protocol
[0236] Data analysis:
[0237] Objective and self-reported nighttime sleep data were analyzed using JMP Pro (version 15) statistical software using a mixed model, within participants. An alpha level of 0.05 was used for all statistical tests. Comparison was made between control and active. Percentages are calculated relative to the control condition. Statistical methods:
[0238] The obtained data and percentage changes were subjected to the two-way Student's t-test for paired data. The statistical significance value is p<0.05.
[0239] Results :
[0240] The lavandin extract according to the invention significantly increased total sleep time (p < 0.05) compared to the control. Participants slept for an average of 6.6 hours (393 minutes) per night with the unscented control cream compared to 6.8 hours (408 minutes) with the cream containing the extract according to the invention. In addition, the wake time after sleep onset (WASO) averaged 30 minutes per night with the unscented control cream compared to 25 minutes with the cream containing the extract according to the invention (Figures 2 and 3).
[0241] Example 6: Cosmetic products incorporating the extract used according to the invention
[0242] A) Night cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in pentylene glycol
[0243] Table 4: Composition of the night cream B) Anti-fatigue cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in triheptanoin
[0244] Table 5: Composition of the anti-fatigue cream
[0245] Example 7: Clinical trial
[0246] Protocol: A clinical trial was conducted to confirm the anti-fatigue effect of the extract according to the invention on dark circles around the eyes. Forty-four volunteers were evenly divided into two groups (22 individuals in the test group: “active” cream and 22 individuals in the placebo group: Placébo cream).
[0247] The volunteers enrolled were people who worked shifts, young adults who were very socially active and had a habit of going out and staying up late or traveling (jet lag), or young mothers. The volunteers therefore had disrupted sleep cycles but were not being treated for sleep disorders. The two creams were tested:
[0248] - “active” cream: generic unscented face cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract of Example 1, in Triheptanoin (anti-fatigue cream of Table 5 above), - “Placébo” cream: same generic unscented face cream but comprising 1% of Triheptanoin alone (i.e. without extract).
[0249] The assessment of dark circles was carried out using original images taken with the Bio blue light scanner for each volunteer. The images were processed using specific software, and dark circles were measured using the individual typology angle (ITA°) at different times: after 12 hours, after 7 days and after 28 days.
[0250] Statistical methods:
[0251] For each time, a statistical study was carried out to analyze the significance of the evolution of the parameters. The data obtained and the percentage variations were subjected to a two-way A-NOVA. The statistical significance value is p<0.05 ( # p<0.l; *p<0.05; **p<0.01; ***p<0.001; ****p<0.0001).
[0252] Results :
[0253] The result of the dark circles assessment is shown in Figure 4. Figure 4 shows a rapid, progressive and significant lightening of dark circles under the eyes in subjects treated with the active cream compared to subjects treated with the Placebo cream. The liposoluble lavender extract according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce dark circles in subjects with disturbed sleep cycles.
[0254] The present invention is not intended to be limited in scope to the particular embodiments described, which are provided, for example, to illustrate various aspects of the invention. Various modifications or variations of the compositions and methods described will become apparent in light of the description and teachings provided herein. Such modifications may be made without departing from the true scope and spirit of the present application and are intended to be included within the scope of this patent application. Although the invention may be described in connection with specific preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that the invention as claimed is not to be unduly limited to such specific embodiments.Indeed, the various modifications or variants of the embodiments of the invention which are obvious to those skilled in the art in the cosmetic field or related fields are intended to fall within the scope of the following claims.
[0255] Examples of embodiments:
[0256] 1. Cosmetic use of a lavandin extract obtained by maceration of a lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as a protective cosmetic agent or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin. 2. Cosmetic use according to embodiment 1, characterized in that the lavandin extract is an extract of a hybrid chosen from Lavandula angustifolia Mill, x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia.
[0257] 3. Cosmetic use according to embodiment 1 or 2, in which the lavender extract is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue chosen from a loss of skin radiance, a dull complexion, a blurred complexion, a loss of uniformity of complexion, drawn facial features, dark circles around the eyes, bags around the eyes, swollen eyelids, a loss of elasticity, a loss of density, a loss of firmness, and combinations thereof.
[0258] 4. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 3, in which the extract is used as a cosmetic agent to promote or improve skin protection against environmental stresses.
[0259] 5. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 4, in which the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase the total duration of sleep, and / or reduce the time spent awake after falling asleep.
[0260] 6. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 5, in which the extract is used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin, in particular following exposure to environmental stress.
[0261] 7. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 6, in which the extract is used to increase the production of melatonin at the cutaneous level.
[0262] 8. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 7, characterized in that the lavandin extract comprises at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute.
[0263] 9. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 8, characterized in that the lavender extract comprises
[0264] - from 10.0% to 20.0%, of sesquiterpene compounds chosen from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-farnesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol.
[0265] - at most 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0%, of linalool,
[0266] - at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably from 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate. the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the absolute. 10. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 9, characterized in that the extract is capable of being obtained by a process comprising:
[0267] - a step comprising the maceration of a lavender plant material, preferably flowering tops, in a terpene solvent, the recovery of the liquid phase after maceration and the elimination of the terpene solvent from this liquid phase so as to obtain a concrete, and
[0268] - a step of eliminating the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the extract.
[0269] 11. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 10, characterized in that the terpene solvent comprises at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds.
[0270] 12. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 1 to 11, in which the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, a balm, a mask, or a serum.
[0271] 13. Cosmetic use according to embodiment 12, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.0005 to 0.05%, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said extract.
[0272] 14. Cosmetic use according to one of embodiments 12 to 13, said cosmetic composition being chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular O / W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses, and pomades.
[0273] 15. Cosmetic method for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in an individual, said method comprising the application of a cosmetically effective amount of an extract as defined in one of embodiments 1 to 2 and 8 to 11 to the skin.
Claims
DEMANDS 1. Cosmetic use of a liposoluble extract of lavandin obtained by maceration of a lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase cutaneous melatonin production in healthy skin.
2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the extract is further used as a cosmetic agent to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and / or as a cosmetic agent to promote or support skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
3. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the extract is further used to improve sleep, in particular to increase the total duration of sleep, and / or decrease the time of wakefulness after falling asleep in a tired subject.
4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lavandin extract is used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue selected from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, cloudy complexion, loss of evenness of complexion, drawn facial features, dark circles under the eyes, bags under the eyes, swollen eyelids, and combinations thereof.
5. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the lavandin extract is an extract of a hybrid selected from Lavandula angustifolia Mill, x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia.
6. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the lavandin extract comprises at least 8.0% sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the extract.
7. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the lavandin extract comprises - from 10.0% to 20.0%, of sesquiterpene compounds chosen from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-farnesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol. - at most 30.0%, preferably from 6.0% to 18.0%, of linalool, - at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably from 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate. The percentage corresponds to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total peak area of the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis of the extract.
8. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the extract can be obtained by a process comprising: - a step comprising the maceration of a lavandin plant material, preferably flowering tops, in a terpene solvent, the recovery of the liquid phase after maceration and the removal of the terpene solvent from this liquid phase in order to obtain a concrete, and - a step of removing the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the extract.
9. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the terpene solvent comprises at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds.
10. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the extract is present as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, balm, mask, or serum.
11. Cosmetic use according to claim 10, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.0005 to 0.05%, preferably from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said extract.
12. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 10 to 11, said cosmetic composition being selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple emulsions (triple: W / O / W or W / O / O), nanoemulsions, in particular W / O nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of an oily phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, liposome suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, foams, and salves.
13. Cosmetic process for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a tired individual, said process comprising the application of a cosmetically effective amount of a fat-soluble extract of lavandin obtained by macerating lavandin vegetable material in a terpene solvent onto the skin.
14. Cosmetic process according to claim 13, wherein the lavandin extract is as defined in any one of claims 5 to 9.
15. Cosmetic process according to claim 13 or 14, wherein the lavandin extract is present in a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 10 to 12.
16. Cosmetic process according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein the sign of skin fatigue is dark circles and wherein the extract is applied to the eye contour.
17. Cosmetic process according to any one of claims 13 to 16, wherein fatigue in the individual is caused by one or more factors selected from lack of sleep, jet lag, poor or unbalanced diet, alcohol consumption, lack or excess of physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, intense or unsuitable work activity, night work or shift work, exposure to screens, and stress.
18. A cosmetic ingredient comprising a lavandin extract as defined in any one of claims 1 and 5 to 9 in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle 19. Cosmetic ingredient according to claim 18 comprising, or consisting of, 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of said lavandin extract in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle selected from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
20. Cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 18 to 19, wherein lavandin extract is present as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase cutaneous melatonin production in healthy skin and / or to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm in healthy skin, and / or as a cosmetic agent to promote or support cutaneous protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
21. Cosmetic composition comprising lavandin extract according to any one of claims 1 or 5 to 9, or the cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 18 or 19, in combination with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
22. Cosmetic composition according to claim 21, said cosmetic composition being selected from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or W / O / O) emulsions, nanoemulsions, in particular W / O nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of an oily phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, liposome suspensions, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, foams, and salves.
23. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 21 or 22, said composition being a treatment for use in the treatment or prevention of skin fatigue, for example a serum, a cream, a mask or a balm, preferably for nighttime use.
24. Use of a lavandin extract according to any one of claims 1 or 5 to 9 or of a cosmetic ingredient according to any one of claims 18 or 19 in the manufacture of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition to increase cutaneous melatonin production in healthy skin and / or to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm in healthy skin, and / or to promote or support cutaneous protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.