Cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts to reduce the visibility of skin pores

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts, namely an essential oil of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum and a subcritical water extract of immortelle husks of the species Helichrysum italicum to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts to reduce the visibility of skin pores

[0002] FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0003] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of immortelle extracts, namely an essential oil of immortelle and a subcritical water extract of immortelle grains, for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or tightening skin pores.

[0004] BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0005] Pores are small openings on the surface of the skin, whose physiological role is to allow the excretion of sweat and sebum.

[0006] They are in communication with the sebaceous glands, often via a hair follicle ending in a single, very short excretory duct. The sebaceous glands are located in the dermis, which is a connective tissue composed of an extracellular matrix (ECM) containing fibrous proteins (collagen, elastin), glycosaminoglycans and proteoglycans and cells such as fibroblasts. The excretory duct of the sebaceous glands reaches the surface of the epidermis. The dermis and the epidermis are separated from each other by a basement membrane that constitutes the dermo-epidermal junction. The latter is a complex structure of which type IV collagen is a major constituent. With age, the degradation of type I collagen, which is the major constituent of the ECM, leads to a degradation of the latter which plays its supporting role less well, which leads to a deformation of the excretory ducts and therefore to a dilation of the pores.Furthermore, the decrease in the level of collagen IV with age leads to an alteration of the basement membrane which tends to flatten, and induces an enlargement of the pores which become more visible.

[0007] Dilated pores can also have causes other than skin aging, including poor hygiene, climatic or ethnic factors, or excess sebum.

[0008] In the latter case, the pores are more dilated on the face and in particular in the T zone (forehead, nose, chin), particularly the nose area, and can be accentuated by an increase in the width of the conical portion around the pore and / or a state of parakeratosis of the stratum corneum at the level of this conical portion, itself sometimes linked to excessive secretion of sebum and unsaturated fatty acids.

[0009] This imperfection is often perceived in a negative way, as it does not convey an image of healthy skin.

[0010] It is therefore understandable that it would be useful to have a means of reducing the unsightly dilation of skin pores.

[0011] To this end, camouflage techniques have already been proposed, such as the use of makeup compositions that may contain inorganic powders or polymers. However, these compositions tend to clog pores, thus generating other imperfections such as blackheads.

[0012] Another option is to apply astringent lotions to the skin, which may contain aluminum salts, hydroalcoholic solutions, combinations of retinoids and hydroxycarboxylic acids, or parakeratosis inhibitors such as glycine derivatives. However, these substances are known to be skin irritants.

[0013] To reduce the visibility of pores, several medical techniques have also been proposed, including the use of pulsed light, medical light-emitting diodes (LEDs), lasers, and chemical peels.

[0014] There is therefore a need for a way to visibly reduce pores that is as effective as known methods but does not have their drawbacks, i.e., one that does not cause skin irritation.

[0015] The Applicant has already proposed compositions based on ingredients of natural origin which are effective for this purpose.

[0016] Thus, document FR3003167 (M&L) describes a cosmetic composition containing three different immortelle extracts, including an essential oil and an aqueous extract, as well as a myrtle essential oil. This composition is notably judged by a panel of users as effective in reducing the appearance of pores.

[0017] US2011 / 159125 (Avon) describes a CGRP stimulator, which can be chosen from many plant extracts, including essential oils, notably an extract of Helichrysum gymnocephalum. These extracts are presented as being useful as anti-aging agents, in particular for reducing pore size. However, it has not been demonstrated that an essential oil of Helichrysum gymnocephalum actually reduces pore size. Furthermore, such an essential oil differs from that used in the present invention by the absence of neryl acetate (S. Afoulous et al., Molecules 2011, 16, 8273-8291) which is on the contrary present in an amount of at least 30% in the essential oil of Helichrysum italicum, in particular of Corsican origin (A. Bianchini et al., Flavour and Fragrance Journal, 2001; 16: 30-34).Similarly, CN 109010520 discloses an anti-acne composition with an astringent effect and containing numerous ingredients, including immortelle essential oil which is used to reduce scars due to its cell regeneration capacity.

[0018] However, there remains a need for effective natural active ingredients to visibly reduce pores.

[0019] The Applicant has now demonstrated, quite surprisingly, that a particular combination of immortelle extracts makes it possible to achieve this objective, even at low concentration, while being well tolerated.

[0020] SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0021] The invention specifically relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of an essential oil of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of immortelle dregs of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by extraction of the dregs with subcritical water, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores.

[0022] It also relates to a cosmetic process for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or tightening skin pores, comprising the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition containing the combination of an essential oil of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of immortelle dregs of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by extraction of the dregs with subcritical water.

[0023] DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0024] The present invention uses an essential oil of immortelle and an extract of immortelle dregs, both from the species Helichrysum italicum.

[0025] We preferentially use an essential oil ^Helichrysum italicum of the subspecies italicum or microphyllum and / or of Corsican origin.

[0026] By "essential oil" is meant in this description the product of hydrodistillation or steam distillation of the volatile organic compounds present in any part of the immortelle or the whole plant, and more particularly in its aerial parts such as for example its flowers or flowering tops (i.e. the flowers and a few centimeters of stems). In these processes, the odorous molecules contained in the plant are released and mechanically entrained with the steam which is either formed by boiling the water to which the plant is added (conventional hydrodistillation), or formed by boiling the water contained in the plant (microwave hydrodistillation, possibly under vacuum), or supplied by a boiler and circulated through the plant (steam distillation). The distillate is then decanted to separate the essential oil used according to the invention from the hydrosol (or floral water).The solid residue that constitutes the dregs can be recovered and processed to prepare the immortelle dregs extract also used in the present invention.

[0027] The Helichrysum italicum essential oil of Corsican origin preferentially used according to the invention contains, as its main constituent, neryl acetate, which generally represents at least 30% by weight of the total constituents of the essential oil, as measured by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry analysis (GC-MS). The immortelle essential oil is combined, in this composition, with an extract of immortelle dregs. By "dregs" is meant the solid residue remaining after hydrodistillation or steam distillation of any part of the immortelle, preferentially its flowering tops, and separation of the essential oil and hydrosol produced.

[0028] This extract of immortelle dregs is characterized by the fact that it contains flavonol heterosides whose B cycle is dihydroxylated.

[0029] Flavonoids are a class of polyphenols containing the following skeleton:

[0030] They can themselves be subdivided into different categories depending on the carbon of the C ring to which the B ring is attached, the presence or absence of one or more unsaturations on the C ring and / or an oxo group in position 4 and / or a hydroxyl group in position 3 of the C ring.

[0031] Flavonols are a class of flavonoids that have the following specific structure:

[0032] These include, in particular, unsubstituted flavonols on the B ring, such as baicalein, mono-hydroxylated flavonols on the B ring, such as kaempferol, and di-hydroxylated flavonols on the B ring, such as quercetin and quercetagetin. The Applicant has demonstrated, by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry, that the extract of immortelle dregs according to the invention is characterized by the presence of flavonol glycosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated, which do not appear in other aqueous extracts, obtained in particular by using water at ambient pressure and temperature as the sole extraction solvent. These flavonol glycosides generally comprise at least one glycoside, in particular an O-hexoside, of quercetagenin, at least one glycoside of quercetin, in particular a quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, or mixtures thereof.Typically, the immortelle dregs extract used according to the invention contains at least 30 pg / ml of flavonol glycosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated.

[0033] The immortelle dregs extract used according to the invention further contains chlorogenic acid and leontopodic acid B, in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated to chlorogenic acid of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably 0.1:1 to 0.5:1 and in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated to leontopodic acid B of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably 0.1:1 and 0.5:1.

[0034] In addition, the immortelle dregs extract used according to the invention generally contains less than 100 ppm of volatile compounds capable of being detected by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. These volatile compounds contain more than 30% ketones, generally more than 35% ketones, in particular more than 25% diketones, generally more than 30% diketones. The diketones include in particular italidiones, 4-methyl-3,5-decanedione, 2,4-dimethylheptane-3,5-dione, 3,5-dimethyloctane-4,6-dione, 7-ethyl-4,6-undecanedione and ethyl dodecanedione. The volatile compounds of the dregs extract according to the invention also contain less than 2%, generally less than 1%, of nerol.

[0035] The extract of immortelle dregs can be obtained according to a process comprising the extraction of immortelle dregs with subcritical water. This process is advantageously carried out in dynamic mode, by percolation of the water in the subcritical state through the dregs placed in an autoclave, generally of the tubular type. The dregs can be in dry or fresh form and may or may not be ground. Dried and ground dregs are advantageously used. The passage time T of the subcritical water is preferably between 10 and 20 minutes, preferably between 11 and 17 minutes, for example approximately 15 minutes, as measured according to the following formula: T = V / Q, where V is the volume of the autoclave and Q is the flow rate of the subcritical water. The flow rate Q can for example be between 1 and 4 ml / ml, preferably between 2 and 3 ml / min.

[0036] The temperature and pressure of the water are chosen so as to maintain the water in the subcritical state, more particularly to maintain the water in the liquid state at a temperature above 100°C. It is thus possible to use an extraction temperature of between 120 and 175°C, preferably between 150 and 175°C, for example 150°C, and a pressure of 10 to 60 bars, preferably 20 to 60 bars, for example approximately 30 bars. In any case, the water is maintained below the critical point, corresponding to the temperature / pressure pair of 374°C / 220 bars. Beyond this, the water in fact reaches the supercritical state. This process can for example be carried out for a total duration of 25 to 100 minutes.

[0037] The spent grain extract thus obtained is optionally solubilized in a solvent, such as glycerol, before being incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0038] The combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is included in a cosmetic composition which contains a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular cosmetically acceptable, that is to say which does not generate tingling or redness incompatible with cosmetic use. This medium generally contains an oily phase and an aqueous phase. It is preferred that the composition be in the form of an emulsion, in particular of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type.

[0039] When present, the aqueous phase contains water and optionally at least one constituent chosen from polyols and aqueous gelling agents. The water advantageously represents from 40 to 80%, for example from 50 to 70%, of the total weight of the composition. The polyol may in particular be chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and mixtures thereof and it may represent from 5 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.

[0040] The term "aqueous gelling agent" means a polymeric compound capable of immobilizing water molecules by hydrating and thus increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase. Such a gelling agent may be chosen from: polysaccharides, such as: cellulose and its derivatives, modified starches, carrageenan, agar agar, xanthan gum and vegetable gums such as guar or locust bean gum; synthetic polymers and in particular homopolymers of sodium acrylate which are optionally crosslinked, as well as acrylic copolymers, in particular copolymers of sodium acrylate and / or alkyl (meth)acrylate and / or hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylate and / or (polyethoxy)alkyl (meth)acrylate, with optionally at least one other monomer, advantageously 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), these copolymers being optionally crosslinked; and mixtures thereof.

[0041] For its part, the fatty phase may comprise one or more volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Examples of volatile oils are branched alkanes, such as isododecane, and linear C10-C13 alkanes. Non-volatile oils include:

[0042] - esters of acids and mono-alcohols chosen from: mono- and polyesters of linear saturated C2-C10 (preferably C6-C10) acids and linear saturated C10-C18 (preferably C10-C14) mono-alcohols, mono- and polyesters of linear saturated C10-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C3-C20 (preferably C3-C10) mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and branched or unsaturated C5-C20 mono-alcohols; mono- and polyesters of branched or unsaturated C5-C20 acids and linear C2-C4 mono-alcohols;

[0043] - C6-C12 fatty acid triglycerides, such as caprylic and capric acid triglycerides and triheptanoin;

[0044] - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty acids (such as oleic and linoleic acids);

[0045] - branched and / or unsaturated C10-C20 fatty alcohols (such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol); - hydrocarbons such as squalane (C30), in particular vegetable squalane extracted from olive oil, and hemisqualane (Cl 5);

[0046] - dialkyl carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate and diethylhexyl carbonate;

[0047] - dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether; and

[0048] - their mixtures.

[0049] We can also cite vegetable oils which contain one or more of the aforementioned constituents.

[0050] Examples of esters of acids and monoalcohols include monoesters such as the mixture of coco caprate and caprylate, ethyl macadamiate, shea butter ethyl ester, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, hexyl neopentanoate, ethylhexyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl nonanoate, propylheptyl capylate and mixtures thereof. Other useful esters are diesters of acids and monoalcohols such as disopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate and diisoamyl sebacate.

[0051] Examples of vegetable oils include wheat germ, sunflower, argan, hibiscus, coriander, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, lavender, borage, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, Echium, camelina or camellia.

[0052] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one active agent chosen from desquamating agents, soothing agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-seborrheic agents and mixtures thereof. Alternatively or in addition, the composition may comprise at least one active agent chosen from probiotics, such as a bacterium of the genus Lactobacillus or Bifidobacterium; prebiotics, such as beta-glucan, inulin, α-galactooligosaccharides and fructooligosaccharides; and mixtures thereof.

[0053] The desquamating agent may in particular be chosen from beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid or an acylated derivative of salicylic acid, in particular a 5-acyl-salicylic acid such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid and n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid, in free or salified form, in particular in the form of salts obtained by salification with a mineral or organic base. Salicylic acid may also be used in the form of a plant extract, in particular of wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) containing it.Other desquamating agents that can be used are alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; polyhydroxy acids; gentisic acid or its esters, particularly tocopheryl gentisate; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; certain jasmonic acid derivatives; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine; and mixtures thereof. In particular, salicylic acid can be used.

[0054] Examples of soothing agents include panthenol, allantoin, beta-glycyrrhetinic acid, extracts containing them (such as Glycyrrhiza glabra extract), planktons and their extracts, escin and plant extracts containing them (including horse chestnut), aqueous, hydroalcoholic or hydroglycolic extracts of rose, cornflower, chamomile, linden, peony, hawthorn, mallow, marigold, sweet clover, sage, elderberry, arnica, oregano, green tea, iris, water lily, birch bark, orange blossom or aloe vera, asiatic acid and extracts (including Centella asiatica) containing them, extracts of algae of the Laminaria type, zinc or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate, essential oils of coriander, lemon balm, lavender, mint or chamomile, ursolic acid and extracts (especially rosemary) containing it, sunflower unsaponifiables, polysaccharides containing fucose, amino acids,their salts and their acyl derivatives, galactolipids and plant extracts (especially oat extracts) containing them, acexamic acid, tranexamic acid, and mixtures thereof. Examples of antimicrobial agents include undecylenic acid and its salts, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine ​​acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octopirox, octoxy glycerin, caprylyl glycol, octanoyl glycine, farnesol, phytosphingosines, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] Finally, antiseborrheic agents include zinc salts, such as zinc gluconate, pidolate or lactate; selenium chloride; pyridoxine or vitamin B6; capryloyl glycine, possibly mixed with sarcosine and an extract of Cinammomum zeylanicum as in the product Sepicontrol® A5 from SEPPIC; a plant extract, in particular rose (Rosa canina or Rosa multiflora), Laminaria saccharina, Spirea ulmaria, (Hypericum perforatum, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupus, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis, Thymus vulgaris, lentil (Lens esculenta), (Tenantia chlor antha or Serenoa repens or even of the genus Silybum; and mixtures thereof.

[0056] These additional active ingredients may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] The composition according to the invention may further contain different constituents which may be dispersed in the fatty phase and / or in the aqueous phase, provided that these are compatible with topical application to the skin.

[0058] It may thus contain at least one oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsifier, generally non-ionic, such as polyoxyethylene esters, optionally polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, optionally polyethoxylated fatty acid and glycerol esters, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers such as alkyl glucosides, sugar esters and in particular sucrose esters, and mixtures thereof. The emulsifiers may represent from 2 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more pulverulent fillers, which are advantageously in the form of porous or hollow microparticles. These fillers are preferably porous in order to be able to absorb sebum and therefore mattify the skin. They are in principle substantially spherical. These fillers may in particular be chosen from:

[0059] - organic fillers such as: polysaccharide powders and in particular native starch, modified starch or cellulose; acrylic polymer powders such as poly(methyl methacrylate), polyamides or polyolefins; dried algae powders such as Corallina officinalis;

[0060] - inorganic fillers such as silica, clays, perlite and talc;

[0061] - and their mixtures.

[0062] As an inorganic filler, silica is preferred.

[0063] These fillers can represent from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0064] The composition according to the invention may also comprise additives chosen in particular from perfumes; sequestering agents; pH adjusters; preservatives; pigments; colorants; and mixtures thereof.

[0065] This composition may be in any form suitable for topical application to the skin, including milk, cream, fluid, lotion, gel, paste, or film. It is generally a leave-on composition and in particular a skin care composition.

[0066] Alternatively, the composition according to the invention may be a rinse-off composition used for skin care, particularly for the face. In this case, it may, for example, be used as a mask or as a scrub paste.

[0067] The combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is suitable and intended to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores. This expression means the reduction of the opening diameter of the pores and / or the density of the pores and / or the surface area of ​​the pores relative to the surface of the skin. The visibility of the pores can be evaluated in vivo by scoring, or by means of an image analysis device making it possible to extract and quantify specific measurement parameters (surface area, density in particular) from high-resolution photographs of the faces of volunteers, the scoring or image analysis being carried out before and after application of a composition containing the combination according to the invention, as illustrated in the Examples below.

[0068] The cosmetic composition can be applied to the skin of people with dilated pores, whether or not associated with oily skin and / or signs of aging. It is generally applied to at least one area of ​​the face, in particular the T-zone, i.e. the forehead, nose and chin, and / or the cheeks. This composition can be applied once or several times a day, for example morning and / or evening.

[0069] In any case, the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention is applied to the skin in sufficient quantity to reduce the visibility of pores. For example, a quantity of 0.5 to 5 mg / cm can be applied daily to the affected area of ​​skin. 2 of cosmetic composition.

[0070] This advantageously includes:

[0071] - from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, of immortelle dregs extract, and

[0072] - from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, of immortelle essential oil, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0073] EXAMPLES

[0074] The invention will be better understood in light of the following examples, which are given purely for illustrative purposes and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention, defined by the appended claims.

[0075] Example 1: Preparation and characterization of extracts - Comparison with an aqueous extract 1.1 - Preparation of extracts a) Immortelle essential oil

[0076] Flowering tops of Helichrysum italicum from Corsica were subjected to a conventional hydrodistillation process to recover, on the one hand, an essential oil and a hydrosol and, on the other hand, a residue. The essential oil was then separated from the hydrosol in a conventional manner. b) Extract of immortelle dregs

[0077] Immortelle dregs, consisting of the hydrodistillation residue obtained from the extraction of the essential oil described above, were used. These dregs were subjected to subcritical water extraction by percolation of hot water under pressure, in a reactor containing the dried and ground dregs.

[0078] The extract thus obtained was diluted in glycerin in a weight ratio of 45:55. c) Aqueous extract of immortelle

[0079] For comparison, an aqueous extract of immortelle was prepared by maceration in water at 50°C of the flowering tops of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum, in a plant / water ratio of 10% by weight.

[0080] 1.2 - Characterization a) Comparison between the dregs extract and an aqueous extract of immortelle

[0081] Material

[0082] - Ultra high performance liquid chromatography (Agilent Technologies, USA)

[0083] - 1290 series automatic injector

[0084] - Diode Array Detector (DAD) 1260 series

[0085] - Mass Spectrometer: Esquire 6000 (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen) equipped with an Electrospray ionization (ESI) source.

[0086] Sample preparation

[0087] The aqueous extract was diluted 10 eme in a MeOH / FLO mixture (50 / 50). The dregs extract according to the invention was diluted 1 / 2 in a MeOH / H2O mixture (50 / 50).

[0088] Analytical method The solutions obtained after dilution / extraction were filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 µm) and then injected (IpL) onto an Agilent C18 column (2.1 mm x 100 mm; 1.8 µm) at a temperature maintained at 25°C and at a flow rate of 0.4 mL / min. The following solvents were used: A = H2O / HCOOH (0.1%) and B = ACN / HCOOH (0.1%). The elution gradient of the polyphenols was as follows:

[0089] [Table 1]

[0090] At the exit of the diode array detector, the eluent was injected into the mass spectrometer. Analyses were performed in negative or positive mode. LC-MS spectra were acquired over the entire mass range (m / z) from 100 to 1400. All data were then collected and processed by Hystar® software version 3.0. Results

[0091] [Table 2] nd: not detected; <LQ : détecté mais inférieur à la limite de quantification Comme il ressort de ce tableau, l'extrait de drèches utilisé selon l'invention se caractérise par une teneur élevée en hétérosides de flavonoïdes, en particulier en O- hexosides de flavonols dihydroxylés sur le cycle B. Ils sont également plus riches en acide chlorogénique et en acide dicaféoyl quinique que les extraits aqueux. Il a par ailleurs été confirmé par chromatographie en phase liquide et spectrométrie de masse que le "flavonoïde O-hexoside" ne correspondait à aucun autre des composés cités ci- dessus. b) Comparaison avec un hydrolat d’immortelle

[0092] Operating mode

[0093] The phenolic compounds present in the hydrosol obtained in 1.1a) were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (UPLC-DAD-MS) using an Agilent Technologies chromatograph equipped with an Esquire 6000 mass spectrometer (Bruker Daltonics, Bremen) equipped with an Electrospray ionization (ESI) source.

[0094] The hydrosol was diluted 50% in a methanol / water mixture (50 / 50).

[0095] The solution obtained was filtered through a PTFE filter (0.45 µm) and then injected (1 µL) onto an Agilent Cl 8 column (2.1 mm x 100 mm; 1.8 µm) at a temperature maintained at 25°C. The solvents used were: A = H2O / HCOOH 0.1% and B = ACN / HCOOH 0.1%, the flow rate was 0.4 mL / min.

[0096] At the output of the diode array detector, the eluent was injected into the mass spectrometer. Analyses were performed in negative or positive mode.

[0097] The data were then collected and processed by Hystar software version 3.0.

[0098] Results

[0099] It was observed that the hydrosol did not contain Quercetagetin-O-hexoside or Quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, unlike the dregs extract used according to the invention. c) Characterization of the essential oil

[0100] The test described in 1.2b) was reproduced on the essential oil obtained in Lia). To do this, 2 mL of essential oil were dissolved in 1 mL of hexane, then this oily solution was extracted three times with 2 mL of a methanol / water mixture (60 / 40). The hydroalcoholic phases were combined.

[0101] Here again, it was observed that immortelle essential oil did not contain Quercetagetin-O-hexoside or Quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside. More generally, it was found that immortelle essential oil was devoid of polyphenols and contained terpenoids, in particular neryl acetate (more than 30% by weight), eudesmol and curcumene.

[0102] Example 2: Effect of the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention on the visibility of pores

[0103] 2, 1 - Materials & Method

[0104] A clinical study was conducted on a panel of 33 healthy adult women, aged 37 to 63 years, with dilated pores on the cheeks, who were asked to apply the product studied at home, on half of the face, twice a day (morning and evening). On the other half of the face, a control product was applied with the same frequency. The side on which the two different formulas were applied was defined using specific randomization.

[0105] The tested product consisted of a cosmetic composition containing the combination of immortelle extracts according to the invention (0.5% immortelle dregs extract and 0.03% immortelle essential oil). The control product corresponded to the same composition, but without these two extracts. The formula base common to these products had the following composition: Hydrophilic gelling agent 1.00%

[0106] Sodium gluconate 0.20%

[0107] Ethylhexylglycerin 0.20%

[0108] Oil 3.00%

[0109] Preservative qs

[0110] Water qsp 100%

[0111] Photographs were taken at different time intervals in an ISO9001 certified investigation center, using the VISIA-CR image acquisition device (provided by CANFIELD). The images were precisely taken:

[0112] - at JO, before the first application of the product,

[0113] - on D28, after 28 days of application (± 2 days),

[0114] - at D56, after 56 days of use (± 2 days).

[0115] To do this, the volunteers were first subjected to a 20-minute acclimatization period at the investigation center, in a room with controlled temperature (22°C ± 2°C) and humidity (45% ± 10%). Photographs were then taken of their entire face (eyes closed) in standard, cross-polarized, and parallel-polarized lighting modes.

[0116] The photographs that were taken were then analyzed, focusing on the pores located on each cheek near the nasolabial fold. The pore volume was analyzed at each pass of the volunteer. It is defined as the product of the pore surface area and the pore depth, where the pore surface area corresponds to the number of pixels in the area considered and the pore depth corresponds to the difference in intensity between the area considered and the surrounding area.

[0117] Statistical analysis of the results was performed using the Wilcoxon test.

[0118] 2.2 - Results

[0119] The difference in pore volume after 28 days was compared between the half-face treated with the composition according to the invention and the half-face treated with the control composition.

[0120] The measured volume difference was significant (p = 0.041) and observable to the naked eye by the study sponsor.

[0121] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention was well tolerated, with no adverse effects reported by the volunteers.

[0122] Cosmetic compositions

[0123] The following compositions are prepared in a conventional manner for those skilled in the art, by mixing the ingredients below (identified in capital letters by their INCI names) in the indicated weight proportions. Face cream

[0124] O / W emulsifiers 6.00%

[0125] Fat 15.00%

[0126] Hydrophilic gelling agents 3.00%

[0127] Polyols 3.50%

[0128] Anti-aging active ingredients 5.50%

[0129] Anti-seborrheic active ingredients 3.00%

[0130] Sodium hydroxide 1.00%

[0131] Immortelle essential oil 0.03%

[0132] Immortelle spent grain extract 0.50%

[0133] Perfumes qs

[0134] qs Conservatives

[0135] Antioxidants qs

[0136] Water qsp 100.00%

[0137] Serum

[0138] O / W emulsifiers 1.00%

[0139] Fat 8.00%

[0140] Hydrophilic gelling agents 3.00%

[0141] Polyols 6.00%

[0142] Anti-aging active ingredients 5.00%

[0143] Anti-seborrheic active ingredients 4.00%

[0144] Immortelle essential oil 0.04%

[0145] Immortelle spent grain extract 1.00%

[0146] Perfumes qs

[0147] qs Conservatives

[0148] Antioxidants qs

[0149] Water qsp 100.00%

[0150] GLYCERIN 10.0%

[0151] ZINC GLUCONATE 0.2% CETEARYL ALCOHOL & CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 3.0%

[0152] MYRISTYL ALCOHOL & MYRISTYL GLUCOSIDE 2.0%

[0153] OCTYLDODECANOL 3.0%

[0154] PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.0% SODIUM POLY ACRYLATE 0.5%

[0155] SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.3%

[0156] ACRYLATE / Cl 0-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE

[0157] CROSSPOLYMER 0.2%

[0158] XANTHAN GUM 0.1% DISODIUM EDTA 0.1%

[0159] Immortelle essential oil 0.02%

[0160] Immortelle spent grain extract 0.4%

[0161] Perfume qs

[0162] AQUA qsp 100%

Claims

Demands 1. Cosmetic use of a combination of an essential oil of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of immortelle distillers of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by subcritical water extraction of the distillers, to reduce the visibility of skin pores and / or tighten skin pores.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillers contains flavonol heterosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated.

3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillers further contains chlorogenic acid and leontopodic acid B, in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated with chlorogenic acid of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably from 0.1:1 to 0.5:1 and in a weight ratio of flavonol heterosides whose ring B is dihydroxylated with leontopodic acid B of between 0.05:1 and 1:1, preferably from 0.1:1 to 0.5:

1.

4. Use according to any one of claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the flavonol heterosides comprise at least one heteroside, in particular an O-hexoside, of quercetagenin, at least one quercetin heteroside, in particular a quercetin-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, or mixtures thereof.

5. Use according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the extract of immortelle distillers contains at least 30 pg / ml of flavonol glycosides whose B ring is dihydroxylated.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the volatile compounds present in the extract of immortelle distillers contain more than 30% ketones, generally more than 35% ketones, in particular more than 25% diketones, generally more than 30% diketones, and less than 2%, generally less than 1%, of nerol.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the essential oil of immortelle and / or the extract of immortelle grains are derived from immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum of Corsican origin.

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the immortelle essential oil contains, as a main constituent, neryl acetate, which represents at least 30% by weight of the total constituents of the essential oil, as measured by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry analysis (GC-MS).

9. Cosmetic process for reducing the visibility of skin pores and / or tightening skin pores, comprising the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic composition containing a combination of an essential oil of immortelle of the species Helichrysum italicum and an extract of immortelle distillers of the species Helichrysum italicum obtained by subcritical water extraction of the distillers, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8.

10. Cosmetic process according to claim 9, characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains: (a) from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, of immortelle distillers' grains extract, and (b) from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, of immortelle essential oil, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

11. A method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin of the face, in particular to the forehead, nose, chin and / or cheeks.

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