Method for manufacturing a mould for electroplating a timepiece or piece of jewellery

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a mold for a watch or jewelry part (50), comprising the steps of: - preparing a base substrate (10), - depositing at least one layer of photosensitive resin (20), - irradiating the photosensitive resin (20), characterized in that the irradiation of the photosensitive resin (20) comprises: a first phase with: - positioning a mask (30) between an irradiation source and the photosensitive resin (20), - irradiating a first portion (21) of the photosensitive resin (20) through the mask (30), a second phase with: - irradiating at least a second portion (22) of the photosensitive resin (20) by imposing a relative displacement between an irradiation beam and the photosensitive resin (20).

Description

Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates generally to the manufacture of electroplating or metal growth molds for a watch part or a piece of jewelry. State of the art

[0002] It is known in the manufacturing processes of electroplating or metal growth molds to interpose a mask (typically a plate transparent to light radiation coated with a metallic film that is then etched) between a light source and the photosensitive resin. However, such a mask requires specific manufacturing, and a new mask must be used each time a mold is to be made for a new watch or jewelry component, which obviously limits the flexibility of the manufacturing process and / or increases production costs.

[0003] It is also known in the prior art WO 2023 / 012035 A1 that photosensitive resin can be irradiated with a laser beam or electron beam. However, this method requires a significant amount of time to fully irradiate the desired surface of the photosensitive resin. Description of the invention

[0004] One object of the present invention is to address the disadvantages of the prior art mentioned above and in particular, first of all, to propose a method for manufacturing a mold for electroplating or metal growth of a watch part or a piece of jewelry which allows the watch part or piece of jewelry to be manufactured with high precision, and / or which is flexible, and / or which is fast, and / or which allows the manufacturing reference to be changed without significant additional costs.

[0005] To this end, a first aspect of the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a mold for electroplating or metal growth of a watch or jewelry component, comprising the steps of: Prepare a base substrate, deposit at least one layer of photosensitive resin onto the base substrate, and irradiate the photosensitive resin. characterized in that the irradiation of the photosensitive resin comprises at least two distinct irradiation phases that can be interchanged and consist of: in a first phase called the basic phase: position a mask between an irradiation source and the photosensitive resin, irradiate a first portion called the basic portion of the photosensitive resin through the mask, in a second phase called the specific phase: irradiate at least a second portion called the specific portion of the photosensitive resin by directly irradiating the resin, for example by imposing a relative displacement between an irradiation beam and the photosensitive resin.

[0006] According to the implementation described above, the process includes a first phase, called the base phase, which consists of irradiating a portion of the photosensitive resin in a single pass using masking technology. This allows for the rapid irradiation of a large area at once. The first portion, called the base portion, can be common to several distinct molds or cavities. Furthermore, a second phase, called the specific phase, involves irradiating a second portion of the photosensitive resin with a beam that moves relative to the resin. This allows for the formation of a specific and / or precise pattern without requiring the fabrication of a specific mask. The second portion, called the specific portion, can be a portion specific to, dedicated to, or particular to one mold or cavity among several distinct molds or cavities. Thus, the process comprises: The process involves irradiating a first portion of resin with a mask in a single, very rapid exposure, or with a single irradiation flash, followed by the irradiation of a second portion of resin with an irradiation beam to create specific, precise details. This combination offers the advantages of rapid manufacturing (first phase) and customization, modification, and engraving precision (second phase). The process is more flexible than a traditional masking method while being faster than a direct writing process with a beam that must scan and irradiate the entire part. In particular, the same mask can be used on two molds to ultimately obtain two different molds, the differences being achieved by irradiating at least one second, specific portion of resin.

[0007] We can also: During the first phase, known as the basic phase, a precise, common basic pattern is irradiated for several molds. This pattern is used, for example, to define a functional part of the part to be manufactured (i.e., a part with contact or interaction with other parts of a mechanism, such as a gear tooth, an impulse surface, or a pallet locking beak). During the second phase, known as the specific phase, a second pattern can be irradiated (for example, with low resolution). This second pattern can be used to define a specific and / or non-functional part of the part to be manufactured (i.e., a part without contact or interaction with other parts of a mechanism, such as an anchor rod, an arm, or a gear rim). Low resolution is typically defined by the size of an irradiation spot radius and can be greater than 0.5 µm, preferably greater than 1 µm, preferably greater than 2 µm, preferably greater than 5 µm, preferably greater than 10 µm, preferably greater than 15 µm. Low resolution can also be defined by a scan speed or exposure time. In particular, it is possible to increase the scan speed or reduce the exposure time in areas where low resolution is acceptable. A "sudden" change in resolution (two distinct and separate values) can be implemented, but a continuous variation is also possible, allowing for a smooth, more or less rapid transition from an area with one resolution to an area with a second resolution.

[0008] It is worth noting that the two distinct irradiation phases can be reversed; that is, the first phase, known as the base phase, can be carried out either before or after the second phase, known as the specific phase. This makes the process very flexible, allowing for more flexibly adjusted steps and flow rates.

[0009] The manufacturing process may include the following features, taken individually or in combination.

[0010] In one embodiment, the process may include an intercalated step between the two distinct irradiation phases, which may be interchanged, i.e., between the first phase, called the base phase, and the second phase, called the specific phase, or between the second phase, called the specific phase, and the first phase, called the base phase. Such an intercalated step may include drying and / or baking the photosensitive resin.

[0011] In one embodiment, the same light, wavelength, or type of light is used to perform both distinct irradiation phases. In other words, the same type of irradiation is carried out during both phases; the only difference is the method of irradiation: through a mask or with direct writing. The same chemical reaction or type of chemical reaction on the photosensitive resin is induced during both phases. In particular, the photosensitive resin to be irradiated during either phase is in the same initial state (e.g., crosslinked) before either phase. For this reason, it is entirely possible to reverse the two distinct irradiation phases.

[0012] In one embodiment, the intermediate step consists of drying only. In another embodiment, the intermediate step consists of firing only. In another embodiment, the intermediate step is free of drying. In another embodiment, the intermediate step is free of firing.

[0013] In one embodiment, the two distinct irradiation phases, which can be reversed, are carried out consecutively and / or sequentially and / or directly one after the other, without any further processing (e.g., irradiation, drying, or curing) on ​​the photosensitive resin. That is to say, there may be no treatment of the photosensitive resin between the first phase, referred to as the base phase, and the second phase, referred to as the specific phase, or between the second phase, referred to as the specific phase, and the first phase, referred to as the base phase. Of course, physical or spatial movement or recentering of the mold during manufacturing may be required between the two distinct irradiation phases, which can be reversed.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the photosensitive resin is a negative photosensitive resin, for example of the SU-8 type. In particular, the photosensitive resin may be a photosensitive resin that may require drying to evaporate solvents, or may be a photosensitive resin deposited or laminated in the form of a film that is already solid or sufficiently viscous and does not require drying.

[0015] In particular, the photosensitive resin is not a so-called two-photon photosensitive resin for a two-photon lithography process (Two-Photon Polymerization, TPP in English).

[0016] According to one embodiment, the same layer of photosensitive resin is irradiated during two distinct irradiation phases which can be interchanged.

[0017] In one embodiment, separate portions (typically viewed from above) of the same photosensitive resin layer are irradiated during two distinct, interchangeable irradiation phases. This allows for easy interchangeability of the two distinct irradiation phases. In another embodiment, a common overlapping portion, typically arranged between the separate portions, is irradiated during the two distinct, interchangeable irradiation phases.

[0018] According to one embodiment, the process includes a step of establishing a geometric reference between the first and second phases. This allows the base substrate to be realigned or repositioned so that the second portion is correctly positioned relative to the first portion.

[0019] In one embodiment, the second portion of resin is at least partially adjacent or contiguous to the first portion of resin. Overlap may even be provided (irradiation of the second phase again irradiates part of the first portion of resin).

[0020] In one embodiment, during the first phase, the radiation source and the photosensitive resin are stationary relative to each other, as is any part of a device for transmitting radiation from the radiation source to the photosensitive resin. During the first phase, the irradiation is "static": no movement is planned or imposed between the radiation source and the photosensitive resin.

[0021] According to one embodiment, the surface area of ​​the second portion represents at most 50% of the surface area of ​​the first portion, preferably at most 40% of the surface area of ​​the first portion, preferably at most 20% of the surface area of ​​the first portion, and preferably at most 10% of the surface area of ​​the first portion. In other words, the second phase allows for finishing work that is limited in surface area, so as not to affect the total manufacturing time.

[0022] According to one embodiment, in the second phase, the irradiation beam has a resolution of less than 15 µm, preferably less than 10 µm, preferably less than 5 µm, preferably less than 2 µm, preferably less than 1 µm, preferably less than 0.5 µm.

[0023] According to one embodiment: In the first phase, the first portion of irradiated resin corresponds to a body of the watch or jewelry piece; in the second phase, the second portion of irradiated resin corresponds to a contour of the watch or jewelry piece, or to a periphery of the watch or jewelry piece.

[0024] According to one embodiment: In the first phase, at least two distinct and separate portions of resin are irradiated, corresponding to at least two bodies, preferably identical, of at least two timepieces or at least two pieces of jewelry. In the second phase, at least two further portions of resin are irradiated, corresponding to at least two contours, preferably different, of said at least two timepieces or at least two pieces of jewelry, or to at least two peripheries, preferably different, of said at least two timepieces or at least two pieces of jewelry. It is therefore possible to use the mask to irradiate the same motif common to several timepieces or pieces of jewelry, and the second phase allows for the irradiation of specific and distinctive motifs.The first two distinct and separate portions of resin can be irradiated simultaneously or sequentially, and / or the second two portions of resin can be irradiated simultaneously or sequentially.

[0025] According to one embodiment, in the second phase, the irradiation is carried out by direct writing with an electron beam, or with a laser beam, or with a UV light beam, or with a proton beam, or with an ion beam, and / or the irradiation is free from the use of a physical mask.

[0026] According to one embodiment: In the first phase, said first portion has a continuous irradiated surface greater than 0.5 mm², preferably greater than 0.7 mm², preferably greater than 1 mm². In the second phase, the irradiation beam has an irradiation surface on the photosensitive resin of at most 0.5 mm², preferably at most 0.3 mm², preferably at most 0.1 mm², preferably at most 0.01 mm², preferably at most 0.001 mm². According to one embodiment, in the second phase, the irradiation beam sweeps the second portion, or in which the irradiation beam is stationary and the base substrate moves with reference to the irradiation beam irradiating the second portion.

[0027] According to one embodiment, the second phase includes an adjustment and / or modification of an irradiation characteristic of said irradiation beam, such as an adjustment and / or modification of a focusing of said irradiation beam, such as a modification of the relative position of a focal plane of said irradiation beam with respect to an external surface of the photosensitive resin, such as an adjustment and / or modification of a wavelength of said irradiation beam, such as an adjustment and / or modification of a resolution of said irradiation beam, such as an adjustment and / or modification of an irradiation power or irradiation energy of said irradiation beam, or such as an adjustment of the angle of incidence of the beam on the plate.According to this implementation, in the second phase, several sequential or successive irradiations can be performed, changing at least one irradiation characteristic to specifically irradiate the resin to a particular depth. This allows for compensation of diffraction, reflection, absorption, and energy distribution phenomena of the light beam (e.g., the Gaussian shape of the laser) within the resin to guarantee a specific geometry (particularly along the direction of irradiation penetration into the resin) of the footprint edges that will be formed after resin development. In one specific example, edges with precise verticality (to within ±1°, for example) can be obtained, even if the resin layer is thick (e.g., more than 300 µm, 400 µm, 500 µm, or 600 µm).It is perfectly possible to plan to irradiate the same resin area several times (with each time a particular setting to preferentially irradiate a particular depth).

[0028] According to one embodiment: The first phase includes the use of a mask formed by an engraved plate and defining a fixed irradiation pattern; the second phase includes the use of a light valve and / or a mirror and / or a light modulator and / or a liquid crystal display to generate and / or move said irradiation beam.

[0029] According to one embodiment: the first phase defines a pattern, preferably convex like a disk, with a through hole, the second phase defines a complex pattern chosen from at least one tooth profile, a slotted tooth profile, an input or output arm or an anchor fork, a flexible structure, a cam, a spring, a link, a rocker.

[0030] According to one embodiment, the manufacturing process includes at least one step consisting of texturing said at least one layer of photosensitive resin to form at least one impression to form the timepiece or the piece of jewelry.

[0031] A second aspect of the invention relates to a method for manufacturing a timepiece or a piece of jewelry, comprising: the manufacture of an electroplating or metal growth mold according to the first aspect of the invention, at least one electroplating or metal growth step in the mold to form the watch part or the piece of jewelry. Description of the figures

[0032] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following detailed description of embodiment(s) of the invention given by way of non-limiting example(s) and illustrated by the accompanying drawings, in which: [ fig. 1 ] represents a first step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold for a watch or jewelry component, with the provision of a basic substrate; [ fig. 2 ] represents a second step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold of a watch or jewelry component, involving the deposition of a photosensitive resin layer onto the base substrate; [ fig. 3 ] represents a third step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold for a watch or jewelry component, with a first phase comprising irradiation of a first portion of the photosensitive resin through a mask; [ fig. 4 ] represents a fourth step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold of a watch or jewelry component, with a second phase comprising irradiation of a second portion of the photosensitive resin by a beam; [ fig. 5 ] represents a fifth step in a process for manufacturing a mold for electroplating or metal growth of a watch or jewelry component, involving the development of the photosensitive resin and the provision of a mold ready for use in manufacturing a watch or jewelry component by electroplating or metal growth; [ fig. 6 ] represents a step in a manufacturing process by electroplating or metal growth of a watch part or a piece of jewelry; [ fig. 7 ] represents a timepiece or piece of jewelry manufactured by electroplating or metal growth in the mold obtained at the stage of the figure 5 ; fig. 8 ] represents an example of a timepiece that can be manufactured in the mold obtained in the step of the figure 5 ; fig. 9 ] represents, for the timepiece of the figure 8 , an example of portions of the photosensitive resin that can be irradiated during the first phase of the figure 3 and during the second phase of the figure 4 , in the case of a positive photosensitive resin; [ fig. 10 ] represents, for the timepiece of the figure 8 , an example of portions of the photosensitive resin that can be irradiated during the first phase of the figure 3 and during the second phase of the figure 4 , in the case of a negative photosensitive resin. Detailed description of implementation method(s)

[0033] There figure 1 This represents the first step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold for a watch or jewelry component, involving the supply of a basic substrate 10, which may be, for example, a silicon wafer. The basic substrate 10 may also include a conductive top layer, or a catalytic initiation layer.

[0034] There figure 2 represents a second step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold of a watch or jewelry component, involving the deposition of a layer of photosensitive resin 20 onto the base substrate 10. In the case of the figure 2 , we can use a 20 negative photosensitive resin, such as an epoxy resin of the SU-8 type.

[0035] There figure 3 represents a third step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold for a watch or jewelry component, with a first phase comprising irradiation of a first portion of the photosensitive resin 20 deposited in the previous step through a mask 30. In particular, at the end of the step figure 3 A first irradiated portion 21 of the photosensitive resin 20 deposited in the previous step is obtained. This first irradiated portion 21 will therefore not dissolve during the development step in the case of a negative resin. Irradiation is carried out through a negative mask 30, which must therefore be manufactured beforehand and positioned above the photosensitive resin 20. Irradiation is performed with a light source (for example, UV radiation with a wavelength of 365 nm for SU-8 resin) to irradiate all parts belonging to the first irradiated portion 21 in a single exposure.

[0036] There figure 4 represents a fourth step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold of a watch or jewelry component, with a second phase comprising irradiation by a light beam of a second portion of the photosensitive resin 20 deposited in the step of the figure 2 In particular, a radiation source 40 can be used that generates a light beam (for example, UV radiation with a wavelength of 365 nm for SU-8 resin) to form a second irradiated portion 22 by progressively scanning the photosensitive resin 20 deposited in the step of the figure 2 . It is possible to use a structured beam of light using micromirrors or a screen.

[0037] In detail, as shown figure 4 , a relative displacement can be imposed between the radiation source 40 and the photosensitive resin 20 to progressively irradiate all parts included in the second irradiated portion 22. This irradiation can be carried out by sweeping the parts of the second irradiated portion 22 (by moving the radiation source 40), or by moving the base substrate 10. It is also possible to adjust an angle of incidence between the light beam and the resin to be exposed (by tilting the light source, and / or the substrate).

[0038] An overlap can be expected between each pass of the beam generated by the radiation source 40 within the second irradiated portion 22, but an overlap with the first irradiated portion 21 is also possible: the beam generated by the radiation source 40 can irradiate all or part of the first irradiated portion 21 again. It is understood that the second irradiated portion can have a very specific shape: it is simply a matter of programming the path to be followed by the light beam. It can also be noted that a very precise resolution can be chosen if parts of the second irradiated portion 22 need to precisely define the part to be manufactured.

[0039] There figure 5 represents a fifth step in a manufacturing process for an electroplating or metal growth mold of a watch or jewelry component, involving the development of the photosensitive resin and the provision of a mold ready for use in manufacturing a watch or jewelry component by electroplating or metal growth. In particular, the figure 5 This represents the mold obtained after annealing and irradiation, and after the unexposed resin has been dissolved in a solvent. Note the presence of defined impressions in the second irradiated portion 22 (whose geometry is the most precise), which can serve as sites for metal growth.

[0040] There figure 6 represents the end of a step in a manufacturing process by electroplating or metal growth of a watch or jewelry component 50. The component 50 can be manufactured by electrodeposition from the base substrate 10 if the latter has a conductive layer on its surface, or the component 50 can be manufactured by autocatalytic growth.

[0041] There figure 7 represents a 50-piece watch or jewelry component manufactured by electroplating or metal growth in the mold obtained at the stage of the figure 5 , once the first irradiated part 21 and the second irradiated part have been removed from the base substrate 10, which can also be removed.

[0042] There figure 8 represents an example of a 50-piece watch part that can be manufactured in the mold obtained at the stage of the figure 5 According to this particular example, part 50 is an escape wheel. It can be noted that the ends of the teeth of the escape wheel must be made with extreme precision, due to interactions with the pallets of the anchor, in the case of an anchor escapement for example.

[0043] There figure 9 represents, for the timepiece of the figure 8 , an example of portions of the photosensitive resin that can be irradiated during the first phase of the figure 3 and during the second phase of the figure 4 In the case of a positive photosensitive resin, when using a positive photosensitive resin to create the manufacturing mold, the irradiated areas will dissolve during development and define the mold impressions. In this case, as shown in the figure 9 It is possible to choose to form, in a single irradiation with a mask, the first irradiated portion 21, which corresponds to the entire part 50, except for the ends of the teeth and the central part of the hub. The second irradiated portion 22 can form the ends of the teeth and the inner part of the hub, which must be precise or which may be specific to a particular assembly.

[0044] There figure 10 represents, for the timepiece of the figure 8 , an example of portions of the photosensitive resin that can be irradiated during the first phase of the figure 3 and during the second phase of the figure 4 In the case of a negative photosensitive resin, when using a negative photosensitive resin to create the manufacturing mold, the irradiated areas will not dissolve during development, while the non-irradiated areas will dissolve and define the mold impressions. In this case, as shown in the figure 10 , we can choose to form in a single irradiation with a mask the first irradiated portion 21 which corresponds to all parts of the mold which do not contact the part 50. The second irradiated portion 22 can form all parts of the mold which define the periphery of the part 50, which must be precise or which may be specific to a particular assembly. Industrial application

[0045] A method for manufacturing a mold for electroplating or metal growth of a watch part or a piece of jewelry, a mold for electroplating or metal growth of a watch part or a piece of jewelry, and a watch part or a piece of jewelry according to the present invention, and their manufacture, are capable of industrial application.

[0046] It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements obvious to a person skilled in the art can be made to the different embodiments of the invention described in this description without departing from the scope of the invention.

[0047] In particular, it can be noted that the manufacturing mold can be multi-level. Intermediate cleaning stages and conductive layer deposition can also be included.

Claims

1. Method for manufacturing a mold for electroplating or metal growth of a watch or jewelry component (50), comprising the steps of: - obtaining a base substrate (10), - depositing at least one layer of photosensitive resin (20) on the base substrate (10), - irradiating the photosensitive resin (20), characterized in thatThe irradiation of the photosensitive resin (20) comprises at least two distinct irradiation phases which can be interchanged and consist of: in a first phase called the base phase: - positioning a mask (30) between an irradiation source and the photosensitive resin (20), - irradiating a first portion called the base portion (21) of the photosensitive resin (20) through the mask (30), in a second phase called the specific phase: - irradiating at least a second portion called the specific portion (22) of the photosensitive resin (20) by directly irradiating the resin, for example by imposing a relative displacement between an irradiation beam and the photosensitive resin (20).

2. A manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein, in the first phase, the irradiation source and the photosensitive resin (20) are stationary relative to each other, as well as any part of a device for transmitting the irradiation from the irradiation source to the photosensitive resin (20).

3. Manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the surface area of ​​the second portion (22) represents at most 50% of the surface area of ​​the first portion (21), preferably at most 40% of the surface area of ​​the first portion (21), preferably at most 20% of the surface area of ​​the first portion (21), preferably at most 10% of the surface area of ​​the first portion (21).

4. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, in the second phase, the irradiation beam has a resolution of less than 15 µm, preferably less than 10 µm, preferably less than 5 µm, preferably less than 2 µm, preferably less than 1 µm, preferably less than 0.5 µm.

5. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein: - in the first phase, the first portion (21) of irradiated resin corresponds to a body of the watch or jewelry part (50), - in the second phase, the second portion (22) of irradiated resin corresponds to a contour of the watch or jewelry part (50), or to a periphery of the watch or jewelry part (50).

6. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein: - in the first phase, at least two first portions (21) of distinct and separate resin are irradiated and correspond to at least two bodies, preferably identical, of at least two watch or jewelry pieces (50), - in the second phase, at least two second portions (22) of resin are irradiated and correspond to at least two contours, preferably different, of said at least two watch or jewelry pieces (50), or to at least two peripheries, preferably different, of said at least two watch or jewelry pieces (50).

7. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein in the second phase, the irradiation is carried out by direct writing with an electron beam, or with a laser beam, or with a UV light beam, or with a structured irradiation beam using micromirrors or a screen, or with a proton beam, or with an ion beam, and / or the irradiation is free from the use of a physical mask.

8. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein: - in the first phase, said first portion (21) has a continuous irradiated surface greater than 0.5 mm 2 , preferably greater than 0.7 mm 2 , preferably greater than 1 mm 2 - in the second phase, the irradiation beam presents an irradiation surface on the photosensitive resin (20) of at most 0.5 mm 2 preferably no more than 0.3 mm 2 preferably no more than 0.1 mm2 , preferably no more than 0.01 mm 2 , preferably of no more than 0.001 mm 2 .

9. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein in the second phase, the irradiation beam scans the second portion (22) or wherein the irradiation beam is stationary and the base substrate (10) moves in reference to the irradiation beam irradiating the second portion (22), or wherein the irradiation beam is structured using micromirrors or a screen.

10. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the second phase comprises an adjustment and / or modification of an irradiation characteristic of said irradiation beam, such as an adjustment and / or modification of a focusing of said irradiation beam, such as, for example, a modification of the relative position of a focal plane of said irradiation beam with respect to an external surface of the photosensitive resin (20), such as an adjustment and / or modification of a wavelength of said irradiation beam, such as an adjustment and / or modification of a resolution of said irradiation beam, such as an adjustment and / or modification of an irradiation power or irradiation energy of said irradiation beam.

11. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein: - the first phase includes the use of a mask (30) formed by an engraved plate and defining a fixed irradiation pattern, - the second phase includes the use of a light valve and / or a mirror and / or a light modulator and / or a liquid crystal display to generate and / or move said irradiation beam.

12. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein: - the first phase defines a pattern, preferably convex like a disk, provided with a through hole, - the second phase defines a complex pattern selected from at least one tooth profile, a slotted tooth profile, an input or output arm or an anchor fork, a flexible structure.

13. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one step of texturing said at least one layer of photosensitive resin (20) to form at least one impression to form the watch or jewelry piece (50).

14. Method for manufacturing a watch or jewelry part (50), comprising: - manufacturing a metal electroplating or metal growth mold according to any one of claims 1 to 13, - at least one metal electroplating or metal growth step in the mold to form the watch or jewelry part (50).

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