USE OF A RESVERATROL-BASED COMBINATION TO COMBAT THE SIGNS OF SKIN AGING

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine, or a composition containing said combination in a physiologically acceptable medium, to combat the signs of skin aging. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method employing said combination and compositions containing

Description

This activity is obtained synergistically for an association of betaine and resveratrol, or its derivatives. Synergy means that the effect obtained with the combination of the two assets is greater than the sum of the effects obtained with each asset taken separately. The combination of (i) betaine or its derivatives and (ii) resveratrol or its derivatives has a synergistic effect on restoring and / or maintaining the skin's energy metabolism. The combination has a synergistic effect on stimulating energy metabolism and / or energy production by skin cells. An association according to the invention, or a composition containing it, is thus useful for stimulating the synthesis of collagen and / or elastin by skin cells. Indeed, it has been shown, within the framework of the present invention, that the synthesis of collagen and elastin by skin cells, such as fibroblasts, is stimulated by resveratrol on the one hand. Betaine also stimulates collagen synthesis in skin cells. The combination of betaine and resveratrol or their derivatives has a synergistic effect on this stimulation. The invention therefore relates to the use of the association (or compositions containing it), to combat the signs of aging of the skin or hair, whether intrinsic or extrinsic. In addition to wrinkles and fine lines, the appearance of pigmentary marks, the decrease in skin thickness, its loss of elasticity and its sagging are also changes observed during aging. The combination, or a composition containing it, will be particularly useful to reduce or prevent skin disorders such as loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, thinning of the skin, wrinkles and fine lines, a dull complexion, hyperpigmentation of the skin or heterogeneity of its pigmentation and pigment spots. Skin refers to the skin of the face and / or body, the scalp, and mucous membranes or semi-mucous membranes (such as the lips). Skin appendages refer to hair, body hair, eyelashes, nails, and preferably, head hair. The process according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to delay and / or reduce and / or prevent selected signs of aging, including loss of skin firmness, thinning of the skin, wrinkles, fine lines, dull complexion and pigment spots. In this description, for intervals expressed as "between... and..." or "from... to...", it is understood that the bounds are included. Resveratrol or its derivatives suitable for implementing the invention are in particular selected from c / s-resveratrol, trans-resveratrol, viniferins, and resveratrol esters, monomers and oligomers, the monomers comprising at least one ester group of formula -O-CO-A, and the oligomers being formed of monomer motifs joined by carbon-carbon, or ether, bonds, and / or of monomers cross-linked by -O-CO-R-CO-O- groups with - A representing an alkyl radical of at least two carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, an aryl, aralkyl or aralkylene radical, and - R representing an alkylene radical of 0 to 10 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and / or 1 arylene radical having 1 to 3 rings and / or a heterocyclic radical, and the diastereomers of these motifs. Such derivatives are described in application WO 9903816. The invention relates in particular to compositions characterized in that resveratrol or its derivatives conform to the following formula in which - R' is a hydrogen atom or the junction point at R3 or R4 of another unit, - R” is a hydrogen or the junction point at R3 or R” of another unit, - R1 is a hydrogen, an alcohol functional group, an ether group, or an ester group. - R2 is a hydrogen, an alcohol functional group, an ether group, or an ester group. - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or the junction point at R” or R' of another unit, - R4 is a hydrogen, an alkyl radical, an acyl radical, or a junction point at R' of another unit, - R5 is a hydrogen, an alcohol function, an ether group or an ester group. And the diastereomers and regiomers of these motifs. Examples include trans-resveratrol, trans-rhapontin, trans-deoxyrhapontin, trans-piceatannol, trans-astringin, trans-pterostilbene, trans-pinosylvin, trans-piceide, trans-E-viniferin, and trans-miyabenol C. In one embodiment of the invention, the compositions are based on resveratrol monomers and / or oligomers comprising at least one -O-CO-A group. In a preferred group, A represents a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid radical. In the case of unsaturation, the double bonds are advantageously cis, which corresponds to the most frequent case in natural products. With products obtained more specifically by synthesis or semi-synthesis, the bonds are trans. Among the fatty acids suitable for implementing the invention, mention will be made of butyric, valeric, hexanoic, sorbic, lauric, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, α-linolenic, arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic; and docosahexaenoic acids. Fatty acids in C16 and above are particularly suitable for cosmetic applications. In another preferred group, A represents an aryl group, such as the phenyl radical. In yet another group, A represents an aralkyl or aralkylene group, the alkyl or alkylene group being more particularly at C1 to C8, especially at C1 to C4. We will mention, in particular, the benzyl or styryl group. Resveratrol, or 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, exists in both cis and trans forms. It is generally found as a monomer but also exists as an oligomer with up to four monomers. Unless otherwise specified, the term resveratrol refers to the cis or trans forms of 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene and mixtures thereof. Resveratrol is often associated with E-viniferine, which is a dimer of resveratrol. Advantageously, the trans form of resveratrol will be used. Other usable derivatives are rhapontine, deoxyrhapontine, piceatannol, astringine, pterostilbene, pinosylvin, piceide, and viniferines. Oligomers particularly suited to the invention include, for example, 2 to 4 monomer units. According to a particular embodiment, all the hydroxyl groups of resveratrol are esterified or etherified, so the derivative no longer has a free OH function. Such ethers or esters can in particular be prepared by the process described in applications WO 2011 / 128714 and WO 99 / 03816. According to one embodiment of the invention, resveratrol or its derivatives are used in the form of plant extracts containing it. They can be obtained from various plant sources. These include Vitaceae, Umbelliferae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Legumes, Gramineae, Seraceae, Haemodoraceae, Musaceae, Polygonaceae, Pinaceae, Cupressaceae, Caesalpiniaceae, Poaceae, and Solanaceae. In particular, resveratrol and / or resveratrol derivatives used in the combinations of the invention are extracts from the vine and more especially from vine shoots; these extracts contain monomers, oligomers and / or polymers of units corresponding to the above formula. Advantageously, monomers and / or oligomers of resveratrol are used, such as those obtained by extraction, using water and / or an organic solvent, from vine stalks. Resveratrol can also be obtained through the use of genetically modified microorganisms, from animal tissues, or through bioproduction from plants. particularly from suspensions of vine cells. Betaine, or tri-methylglycine, can be used in the form of zwitterion, or in the form of its physiologically acceptable salts or derivatives. It is understood that in the present text, by betaine or its derivatives means betaine, in the form of zwitterion or one of its physiologically acceptable salts (in particular betaine HCl) and / or one of its physiologically acceptable derivatives; betaine may be present in the compositions according to the invention in any of these forms, and / or mixtures thereof in any proportion. The association useful for implementing the invention may contain resveratrol in the form of its various isomers or one of its derivatives as defined above, isolated or their various mixtures in any proportion. According to one embodiment of the invention, the association of betaine and resveratrol or one of its derivatives is in the form of a conjugate of the betaine molecule with resveratrol or one of its derivatives. In particular, resveratrol or its derivative can be linked by a covalent bond to betaine, for example by an ester bond. The term association in this description encompasses such a conjugate resulting from the conjugation between betaine and resveratrol or one of its derivatives. The combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine has a synergistic effect on increasing mitochondrial activity, and in particular mitochondrial mass, in skin cells, and more specifically in cutaneous fibroblasts, particularly in fibroblasts under conditions mimicking those of fibroblasts from an elderly subject. Mitochondrial mass is thus restored to the level of that of a young cell. The association according to the invention also has a synergistic effect on the production of energy by the cells of the skin or its appendages, in particular by human skin fibroblasts. This effect is observed particularly on the production of ATP by these cells. We know that ATP production is a major source of energy for the various processes of the cell and that its production decreases with age. Resveratrol (or one of its derivatives) on the one hand, and betaine on the other, allow to increase ATP production by fibroblasts. The combination according to the invention has a synergistic effect on increasing ATP production. In particular, on human skin fibroblasts, intracellular ATP synthesis is increased by at least 10%, specifically by at least 18%, or even by at least 20%, compared to the increase that would be expected from a simple additive effect of each of the two components of the combination. ATP levels can be restored to those of young cells in a healthy individual. Skin cells can thus regain the metabolism of young cells, and in particular protein synthesis is restored. According to one aspect of the invention, resveratrol, or its derivatives, increase the production of collagen and / or elastin by skin cells, in particular by human skin fibroblasts. Betaine also increases collagen production by skin cells, particularly by human skin fibroblasts. The combination according to the invention, or the composition containing it, will thus be useful for stimulating the synthesis of collagen and / or elastin in the skin. Advantageously, the combination according to the invention has a synergistic effect on increasing collagen production by skin fibroblasts, particularly human skin. Collagen production is thus equivalent to that of youthful skin. For example, the collagen level in a subject who receives the combination or composition containing it is restored to the average collagen level of a younger subject. According to one embodiment of the invention, the ratio between resveratrol and betaine is between 5:1 and 1:1000, in particular 5:1 and 1:500 and especially between 1:1 and 1:500 The compositions useful for implementing the invention contain, for example, (i) from 0.001 to 10% resveratrol, in particular from 0.001 to 3% resveratrol and especially from 0.002 to 1% and (ii) from 0.01 to 10% betaine, in particular from 0.01% to 5% and especially from 0.1 to 5% betaine, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, in a composition according to the invention, resveratrol and / or its derivatives may be present at a concentration of 0.002% to 3%, in particular 0.002% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment of the invention, the combination of (i) resveratrol or its derivatives and (ii) betaine or the composition containing it, is administered orally. According to another embodiment, the combination of (i) resveratrol or its derivatives and (ii) betaine or the composition containing it is applied topically to the skin. These two embodiments can be combined, the association and / or the composition containing it being able to be administered orally and topically simultaneously, separately, or sequentially in time. A composition particularly suited to the invention contains, in a physiologically, and in particular cosmetically acceptable, medium, a synergistic association on the production of collagen by skin cells of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine; in such a composition resveratrol or its derivatives may be present at a concentration of 0.01 to 3% and betaine may be present at a concentration of 0.1 to 10%, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions, or dermatological compositions suitable for application to the skin or hair. The composition according to the invention contains a combination of resveratrol or its derivatives and betaine as defined above, and a physiologically acceptable medium. A physiologically acceptable medium is defined as one that is compatible with the skin or hair and does not cause adverse effects upon contact with different parts of the body. This may include a medium compatible with oral administration. This refers specifically to a cosmetically acceptable environment. This means an environment or excipients that are well tolerated by the skin and have a pleasant odor and appearance. For oral administration, the composition of the invention may present in all suitable forms, including oral solutions, syrups, tablets, capsules, coated tablets, caplets, controlled-release hydrogels, nutritional foods, and nutritional supplements. In particular, the combination may be incorporated into any type of food supplement, such as food bars or compacted or uncompacted powders. For oral use, the composition may therefore include an ingestible support. A cosmetic product or composition is defined as a substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body or with the teeth and oral mucosa, with a view exclusively or primarily to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition, or correcting body odors. A cosmetic treatment process within the meaning of the invention has the same objectives. This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a mousse. It can also be in solid form, particularly as a stick. It can be used as a skincare product and / or as a makeup product and / or as a hygiene product for the skin or hair. The composition according to the invention can be in all the pharmaceutical forms normally used in the cosmetic field, and it can in particular be in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, possibly gelled, a lotion-type dispersion, possibly biphasic, an emulsion obtained by dispersing an oily phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or a triple emulsion (W / O / W or O / W / O), or a vesicular dispersion of ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to conventional methods. When the composition used according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the oil phase may range from 0.5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers, and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are selected from those commonly used in the relevant field. The emulsifier and co-emulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples of oils that can be used in the invention include hydrocarbons of mineral origin (mineral oil) or synthetic origin (petroleum jelly, isohexadecane), oils Vegetable oils (apricot kernel oil, grapeseed oil, liquid fraction of shea butter, avocado oil, soybean oil), animal oils (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate), silicone derivatives (cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, and silicone polymers), and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers) can all be used as fats. Fatty alcohols (cetyl or stearyl alcohol), fatty acids (stearic acid), waxes (carnauba wax, ozokerite, beeswax), butters, and hydrogenated oils can also be used. Examples of emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers usable in the invention include fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-100 stearate and PEG-20 stearate, and fatty acid and glycerin esters such as glyceryl stearate, sucrose esters, and phospholipids. As is known, the composition used according to the invention may also contain the usual additives in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, screens, pigments, odor absorbers, chelating agents, alcohols, and colorants. The quantities of these various additives are those typically used in the field, for example, from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These additives, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the oil phase, the aqueous phase, or the lipid vesicles. In any case, these additives, as well as their proportions, will be chosen so as not to impair the desired properties of the combination. Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and examples of lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as bentones, metallic salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes. Examples of fillers include polyamide (nylon) particles in spherical or microfiber form; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, particularly microspheres made from a vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, and methacrylate terpolymer, marketed under the name EXPANCEL by Kemanord Plast; and powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, particularly corn, wheat, or rice starch, crosslinked or uncrosslinked, such as anhydride-crosslinked starch powders. octenylsuccinate; silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL by Toshiba Silicone; silica; metal oxides such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide; mica; and mixtures thereof. The composition used according to the invention may also contain other active ingredients, and in particular at least one compound selected from: antioxidants, moisturizing agents; desquamating agents; barrier function improvers; agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation; depigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants; tightening agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents, sunscreens, pro-pigmenting agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum production modifying agents, cooling agents and mixtures thereof. Examples of antioxidants include tocopherol and its esters, particularly tocopherol acetate; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, particularly ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid; phloretin; chelating agents such as BHT, BHA, N,N'-bis(3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and its salts, hydroxymataisoresinol and mixtures thereof. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further contains at least one active ingredient selected from vitamin C and its derivatives and vitamin E or its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate. The additional active ingredients may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process comprising an application step on the skin or skin appendages of the combination or compositions according to the invention. The cosmetic treatment process will therefore aim to prevent or reduce skin signs such as loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, thinning of the skin, wrinkles and fine lines, a dull complexion, hyperpigmentation of the skin or heterogeneity of its pigmentation and pigment spots. The compositions and combinations according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or skin appendages or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic or dermatological supports intended for localized application to the skin, such as hydrogel masks, wipes, fabrics, or biocellulose. The application could, for example, be daily, several times a day, or weekly. It could be continued for several days and / or several weeks, or even longer; it could be continuous or, for example, continued for 1 to 2 months and then resumed after an interruption. The invention also relates to the use of a combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine or one of its derivatives, as defined herein, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition. The composition is suitable for application to the skin or its appendages. The composition advantageously combats the signs associated with the action of free radicals on the skin or its appendages, restores the cell's energy metabolism, stimulates the production of collagen or elastin by the skin, and / or combats the signs of skin aging. The invention further relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising a step in which an effective amount of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine or one of its derivatives are mixed, and optionally a physiologically acceptable excipient. Other features and advantages of the invention are illustrated in the examples that follow. In these examples, we will refer to the single figure in the appendix. It represents the effect of resveratrol and betaine, alone or in combination, on ATP production by cultured human fibroblasts; the combination has a synergistic effect on increasing ATP production. Example 1: Action of a combination of betaine and resveratrol on ATP production Human fibroblasts were cultured at 37°C in a humid atmosphere with 5% CO2, on MEM medium supplemented with glucose, serum, and glutamine. A solution containing trans-resveratrol and / or betaine was added to the culture medium. Primary fibroblast cultures are incubated for 120 min with resveratrol at a final concentration of 1pM, betaine at a concentration of 1mM or a mixture of both. Cell viability is measured after incubation using a fluorescent probe. Intracellular ATP concentration is measured by chemiluminescence assay; the average of 4 measurements is retained. Intracellular ATP levels are expressed as pM of ATP per viable cell, and the percentage increase in ATP is calculated relative to the ATP level in untreated cells. The results are illustrated in the figure in the appendix and reported in the table below. ATP (pM per cell) Average value Increase (%) Untreated 0.067 Reference Resveratrol 1 pM 0.086 28 Betaine 1 mM 0.080 20 Resveratrol 1 pM + Betaine 1 mM (theoretical) 0.099 48 Resveratrol 1 pM + Betaine 1 mM (measured) 0.112 68 The combination of resveratrol and betaine significantly increases intracellular ATP production, which is 68% higher than that of untreated cells. The activity measured for the resveratrol + betaine combination is more than 20% greater than the theoretical sum of the effects of each compound. The combination of betaine and resveratrol can combat the decline in intracellular ATP levels in fibroblasts associated with aging. Example 2: Increase in mitochondrial mass by resveratrol and betaine. Human fibroblasts were cultured at 37°C in a humid atmosphere with 5% CO2, on MEM medium supplemented with glucose, serum, and glutamine. The cells were treated with a chemical agent (FK866) in the presence or absence of the following five compounds: trans-resveratrol and betaine. The FK866 agent reduced cellular mitochondrial mass, thus mimicking one of the signs of aging. Under these conditions, the ability of the active ingredients to increase mitochondrial mass is evaluated. For this purpose, after 24 hours of treatment, mitochondrial mass is measured using the Nonyl Acridine Orange (NAO, Invitrogen) probe, which fluoresces at 533 nm. DAPI labeling is also used to measure cell viability. Flow cytometry analysis is performed using an LSRII FACS analyzer and the analysis is carried out with FlowJo software. The results are presented in the following tables: 15 a) Treatment with the chemical agent FK866 decreases the mitochondrial mass of fibroblasts, mimicking certain effects of aging Mitochondrial Mass (Fluorescence Units) Mean Decrease (%) Basal 1467.67 Reference FK866 2.5 nM 1325.67 9.68 b) Treatment with Resveratrol, Betaine and their combination protects against the effects of FK866 on mitochondrial mass. Mitochondrial Mass (Fluorescence Units) Mean Increase (%) FK866 2.5 nM Untreated 1325.67 Reference Betaine 5 mM 1573.67 18.71 Resveratrol 25 pM 2285.00 72.37 Resveratrol 25 pM + Betaine 5 mM (theoretical) 2533.00 91.07 Resveratrol 25 pM + Betaine 5 mM (experimental) 2664.67 101.01 20 Example 3: Increased collagen production by resveratrol and betaine Skin fibroblasts were cultured for 24 hours with resveratrol, betaine, or a mixture of both compounds. For gene expression analysis, total RNA was extracted from fibroblast cultures and expression was measured by quantitative real-time PCR. The extraction 5 RNA samples were extracted using an RNeasy Mini Kit (Qiagen). Total RNA was used for cDNA synthesis with the iScript cDNA synthesis Kit (Bio-Rad). PCR reactions were performed using the LightCycler® 480 SYBR Green I Master mix (Roche). Each sample underwent two PCRs using the appropriate primers listed in the table below. For comparison of relative expressions, the 10. A ACt method. The relative expression of the gene of interest is represented by the variation in expression relative to the untreated samples. Gene Primer pairs Col1A1 GAG GGC CAA GAC GAA GAC ATC (SEQ ID NO: 1) CAG ATC ACG TCA TCG CAC AAC (SEQ ID NO: 2) 18s RNA GAG ACT CTG GCA TGC TAA CTA G (SEQ ID NO: 3) GGA CAT CTA AGG GCA TCA CAG (SEQ ID NO: 4) 15 The results are shown in the following table: Relative expression of Col1A1 Mean value Increase (%) Untreated 1.00 Reference Resveratrol 4pM 1.22 22 Betaine 5mM 1.28 28 Resveratrol 4pM + Betaine 5mM (theoretical) 1.50 50 Resveratrol 4pM + Betaine 5mM (measured) 1.54 54 Resveratrol and betaine have a synergistic effect on increasing the expression of collagen genes and 3 Example 4: Composition Compositions according to the invention are prepared by mixing the constituents of the following 5 formulations. Freeze INCI name % Aqua QSP 100 Sodium phytate 0.05 Carbomer 0.2 Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 0.2 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 Palmitoyl grape shoot extract 0.1 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Aqua, Sorbitan isostearate 0.2 Tocopherol, 0.3 Betaine 0.5 Parfum 0.1 QSP pH adjuster pH 5.0-5.5 Cream-gel Nom INCI % Aqua QSP 100 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Sodium acrylates copolymer, Lecithin 2 huile d'amande douce 10 Palmitoyl grape shoot extract 0.35 Potassium sorbate 0.3 BHT 0.05 Betaine 0.5 Parfum 0.3 Lotion Nom INCI % Aqua QSP 100 Glycérine 10 Resveratrol 0.01 Betaine 1 Alcohol 15 Emulsion Nom INCI % Aqua QSP 100 Butylène glycol 5 Xanthan gum 0.2 Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 0.5 Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol 4 Glyceryl stéarate 1 Dicaprylyl ether 5 Butyrospermum parkii 3 Dimethicone 4 Carpyly / capric triglycérides 10 Silica 2 Chlorphenesin 0.2 Sodium benzoate 0.2 Palmitoyl grape shoot extract 0.7 Betaine 0.3 Tocopherol 0.2 Parfum 0.4

Claims

Demands 1. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine in the form of zwitterion or one of its physiologically acceptable salts, to combat the signs of skin aging, the resveratrol or one of its derivatives being selected from c / s-resveratrol, trans-resveratrol and resveratrol esters monomers, comprising at least one ester group of formula -O-CO-A, with -A representing an alkyl radical of at least two carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, an aryl, aralkyl or aralkylene radical.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the association or a composition containing said association in a physiologically acceptable medium is administered orally.

3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the association or a composition containing said association in a physiologically acceptable medium is applied topically to the skin.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine in the form of zwitterion or one of its physiologically acceptable salts, is used to delay and / or reduce and / or prevent selected signs of aging from loss of skin firmness, thinning of the skin, wrinkles, fine lines, dull complexion and pigment spots.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and / or elastin in the skin.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine has a synergistic effect on energy metabolism and / or energy production by skin cells.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that resveratrol or resveratrol derivatives (i) are selected from the c / s- resveratrol, frans-resveratrol and resveratrol esters, monomers, monomers comprising at least one ester group of formula -O-CO-A, with -A representing a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid radical.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the association is in the form of a conjugate of betaine with resveratrol or one of its derivatives.

9. Use of an association according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resveratrol derivatives are selected from resveratrol esters for which A represents a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid radical selected from butyric, valeric, hexanoic, sorbic, lauric, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, α-linolenic, arachidonic, eicosapentaenoic, and docosahexaenoic acids.

10. Use of an association according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that resveratrol or its derivatives are used in the form of plant extracts containing it.

11. Use of an association according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the association is in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, and containing from 0.001 to 3% resveratrol and from 0.01% to 5% betaine, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment method for signs of skin aging comprising a step of applying, to the skin covering or its appendages, a composition containing a combination of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine in the form of zwitterion or in the form of one of its physiologically acceptable salts, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, betaine being present at a concentration of 0.01% to 5% and resveratrol at a concentration of 0.001% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the signs of aging being selected from loss of skin firmness, thinning of the skin, a dull complexion, hyperpigmentation of the skin or heterogeneity of its pigmentation and pigment spots.

13. A cosmetic treatment process according to claim 12, characterized in that that the ratio between resveratrol and betaine is between 5:1 and 1:1000.

14. Cosmetic treatment process according to any one of claims 12 or 13, characterized in that the composition contains (i) from 0.002 to 1% resveratrol and (ii) from 0.01 to 5% betaine, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition capable of being used according to any one of claims 1 to 11, or useful for carrying out the process according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that it contains, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a synergistic association on the production of collagen by skin cells of (i) resveratrol or one of its derivatives and (ii) betaine, the resveratrol or its derivatives being present at a concentration of 0.002 to 0.5% and the betaine being present at a concentration of 0.01 to 5%, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the medium is a cosmetically acceptable medium and in that it further contains at least one active ingredient selected from antioxidants, moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, barrier function improving agents, depigmenting agents and agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation.

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