COMPOSITION FOR THE CONDITIONING OF KERATINOUS MATTER

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING KERATINOUS MATERIAL The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning skin, comprising the following components: A) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxy acids, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof, which α-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having 2-12 carbon atoms, preferably 2-8 carbon atoms, or 2-6 carbon atoms; B) at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of polyglycerol fatty acid esters or polyglycerol fatty acid ethers; and C) at least one additional surfactant other than component B). Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING KERATINOUS MATERIAL Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for conditioning the skin, in particular the stratum corneum. The invention also relates to a process for conditioning the skin, in particular the stratum corneum, using the composition of the present invention. Context

[0002] Skin is widely present on the surface of the human body. Many people have long sought to refresh the surface of the body, in order to feel comfortable in daily life and at work. The cosmetics industry has always had the ultimate goal of providing products with skin benefits, such as moisturizing, anti-aging effect, whitening, cleansing, gliding feeling, etc.

[0003] It is known that keratinous materials such as skin suffer from aging due to various factors; and accordingly, the anti-aging effect can be accomplished through various pathways. For example, the stratum corneum (CC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis. By facilitating the renewal of the CC, the skin can be made smoother and brighter, and fine lines or wrinkles on the skin will be less visible.

[0004] An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) is a representative exfoliating ingredient. The acid may be functional in unlocking the desmosomes of CC cells, which are a key component of cell connection. Specifically, the acid helps remove the connecting structure between keratin in the stratum corneum, and exhibits a slight keratin-melting effect. An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), among others, is a representative exfoliating ingredient. However, it is also known that AHAs, for example, glycolic acid, can still be irritating to the skin.

[0005] It is therefore still necessary in the art to develop new compositions for skin conditioning, in particular for anti-aging purposes by facilitating the renewal of the CC. Summary of the invention

[0006] Through extensive study, the inventors surprisingly discovered that by specifically using the combination of at least two surfactants, including at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester or polyglycerol fatty acid ether, the desquamation and renewal of CC by AHA can be facilitated.

[0007] Thus, a subject of the present invention is therefore a leave-in composition for the skin conditioning, including:

[0008] at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, such as an α-hydroxy acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof;

[0009] at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of a polyglycerol fatty acid ester; and

[0010] at least one other surfactant.

[0011] The composition according to the present invention is particularly useful for the condi functioning of the skin, in particular of the stratum corneum. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention may be in various forms, in particular a solution, such as a lotion, a spray or the like, to be applied to the scalp directly on the skin. Embodiments of the invention

[0012] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise stated. Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0013] Throughout the description, including the claims, an embodiment defined by "comprising" or the like is to be understood as encompassing a preferable embodiment defined by "consisting essentially of" and a preferred embodiment defined by "consisting of".

[0014] Apart from working examples or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of components and / or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", the meaning of which is conventionally known in the art, for example, within 10% of the number indicated (such as, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

[0015] In the application, unless explicitly stated otherwise, contents, parts and percentages are expressed by weight.

[0016] The present invention relates to an aqueous composition for conditioning the skin, comprising the following components:

[0017] A) at least one hydroxyl-containing acid, such as an α-hydroxy acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof;

[0018] B) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of a polyglycerol fatty acid ester or a polyglycerol fatty acid ether; and

[0019] C) at least one additional surfactant other than component B).

[0020] The present invention therefore provides the use of the combination of at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester or polyglycerol fatty acid ether of component B) and another surfactant of component C) to enhance the performance of an acid containing hydroxyl while avoiding or reducing irritation to the skin, particularly that caused by acids and / or by a conventional surfactant.

[0021] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Component A), hydroxyl-containing acid

[0022] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxyl-containing acid as component A).

[0023] According to the present invention, the hydroxyl-containing acid may in particular be an α-hydroxy acid. The term "α-hydroxy acid" means, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an α- position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group). This acid is preferably present in the final composition in the form of the free acid.

[0024] The α-hydroxy acids (α-hydroxy acid) include, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid and their mixtures. It is also possible to use mixtures of these different acids.

[0025] According to one embodiment of the present invention, an α-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having 2 to 12 carbon atoms, or 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0026] According to one embodiment of the present invention, an α-hydroxy acid is preferably a monocarboxylic acid.

[0027] Examples of hydroxyl-containing acid may include glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, tartaric acid, and salicylic acid.

[0028] According to a preferable embodiment of the present invention, an α-hydroxy acid is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid, gluconic acid or glycolic acid.

[0029] According to a special embodiment of the invention, a precursor of a hydroxyl-containing acid can also be used for component A). According to the present invention, a "precursor" means an acid capable of being converted into a hydroxyl-containing acid useful for the invention, for example by hydrolysis. An example of such a precursor may in particular be glucosactone. For the purposes of the invention, in particular if the composition according to the present invention is considered to be aqueous, such a precursor may be considered to fall within the concept of "hydroxyl-containing acid".

[0030] According to a preferable embodiment of the present invention, an α-hydroxy acid is a lower monocarboxylic acid having 2-6 carbon atoms, such as lactic acid, gluconic acid or glycolic acid.

[0031] Component A) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 15% by weight, or from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Component B), non-ionic surfactant

[0032] The composition according to the present invention may preferably comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of a polyglycerol fatty acid ester or a polyglycerol fatty acid ether.

[0033] As component B) of the composition according to the invention, mono- or polyglycerolated surfactants may be used, which more preferably comprise on average from 1 to 30 glycerol groups, more particularly from 1 to 10 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 5.

[0034] The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of the following formulas:

[0035] R''O[CH2CH(CH2OH)O]mH,

[0036] R”O[CH2CH(OH)CH2O]mH or

[0037] R”O[CH(CH2OH)CH2O]mH;

[0038] formulas in which:

[0039] - R' ' represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms; m is an integer between 1 and 30, preferably between 1 and 10 and more particularly from 1.5 to 6; R” may optionally comprise heteroatoms, for example oxygen and nitrogen. In particular, R” may optionally comprise one or more hydroxyl and / or ether and / or amide groups. R' ' preferably denotes mono- or polyhydroxylated C10-C20 alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.

[0040] For example, it is possible to use polyglycerolated hydroxylauryl ether (3.5 mol) sold under the name Chimexane® NF from Chimex.

[0041] The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable for carrying out the invention are chosen more particularly from alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0042]

[0043]

[0044]

[0045]

[0046]

[0047]

[0048]

[0049]

[0050]

[0051] and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. (Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols contain more particularly one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohol(s) preferably has the following formula (XII): with - R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group and more preferably a C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and - it is an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, more preferably between 2 and 50 and more particularly between 8 and 30, such as 20. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester intended to be used as a non-ionic surfactant. According to a preferred embodiment, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of a polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. The fatty acids may be selected from oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid and caprylic acid, or mixtures thereof. The polyglycerol fatty acid esters may be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. Esters having a low degree of esterification are preferably used, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters of polyglycerol fatty acids, or a mixture thereof. The polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be in the form of a mixture of esters with a low degree of esterification, for example a mixture of monoesters and diesters or a mixture of monoesters, diesters and triesters. Examples include polyglyceryl-2 distearate, in particular as sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name Emalex PGSA; polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-1810S; polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft A-186E; polyglyceryl-2 laurate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-12D; polyglyceryl-5 laurate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft A-121E-C; polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-185S; polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan GI 34; diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan PDI; polyglyceryl-2 oleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SunSoft Q-17B; polyglyceryl-5 tri-myristate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-143E;polyglyceryl-2 caprylate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-81B; polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name SUNSOFT Q-102H-C.;

[0052] Component B) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, or from 0.5% to 10%, or from 1% to 5%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Component C), additional surfactant

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one additional surfactant, as component C), other than that used for component B). According to one embodiment of the invention, component C) may comprise a component C1), which is at least one amphoteric surfactant; a component C-2), which is at least one anionic surfactant; and / or a component C-3), which is at least one additional non-ionic surfactant other than that used for component B).

[0054] Without being restricted by any known theory, it is believed that the simultaneous use of components B) and C) in combination may facilitate the function of component A) on the skin, for example, the dissolution of intercellular lipid component. In particular, the simultaneous use of components B) and C) together with component A) may make the lipid more disorganized and more fluid, may generate synergy to facilitate the effectiveness on desquamation and renewal of the CC, while being able to relatively decrease the irritation possibly caused by conventional surfactants. Component Cl), amphoteric surfactant

[0055] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant as component C1), which can also be called zwitterionic surfactant.

[0056] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention may be quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0057] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV) below: O R6 O (III) || h H2 IL | H2 || R.^.-----(J----jq----£ ---jq.---qq r5

[0058] formula (III) in which:

[0059] - R4 represents a Cio-C3o alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R4 - C(O)-OH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0060] - R5 represents a [3-hydroxyethyl] group; and

[0061] - R6 represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0062] and O (IV) He H H2 HAS'

[0063] where:

[0064] - A represents -CH2CH2OX';

[0065] - A' represents -(CH2)z-Y', with z = 1 or 2;

[0066] - X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)-OH, -CH2-C(O)-OZ', -CH2CH2-C(O)-OH, -CH2 - CH2-C(O)-OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0067] - Y' represents -C(O)-OH, -C(O)-OZ' or the group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or -CH2 - CH(OH)-SO3Z' ;

[0068] - Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.

[0069] - R7 represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R7C(O)-OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

[0070] By way of example, mention may be made of N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium, or cocoamphodiacetate sold for example by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M concentrate.

[0071] Mention may in particular be made of a betaine-type surfactant, for example (C 8-C 20 ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8-C 20 ) amido (C 2-C 8 ) betaines and (C 8-C 20 ) amido (C 2-C 8 ) alkyl sulfobetaines.

[0072] Among all the amphoteric surfactants mentioned above, cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine and N-cocoylamidocarboxymethyl glycinate of an alkali metal such as sodium are preferably used.

[0073] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the above-mentioned amphoteric surfactant is cocoylamidopropylbetaine or cocoylbetaine. Component C-2), anionic surfactant

[0074] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant, intended to be used as component C-2).

[0075] The term "anionic surfactant" is intended to designate an amphiphilic compound comprising a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic part, the hydrophilic part carrying as ionic or ionizable group only an anionic group with a cationic counterion, generally metallic (alkali metal, such as Na or K) or ammonium, capable of dissociating to give anions in aqueous solution.

[0076] More particularly, the anionic group of the anionic surfactant belongs to the selected group: C(O)OH, -C(O)O-, -SO3H, -S(O)2O-, OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O-, -P(O)OH2, -P(O)2O-, -P(O)O2-, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH, =PO-, the cationic counter-anion being generally chosen from alkali metals such as sodium, or alkaline earth metal such as magnesium, or cationic organic counter-anion such as ammonium salts, amine salts or amino alcohol salts. The surfactants can also be in their acid forms.

[0077] Mention may be made, as anionic surfactants, of surfactants comprising anionic carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate groups, fatty acid salts, galactosiduronic acid salts, ether carboxylic acid salts and mixtures thereof.

[0078] More particularly, the anionic surfactant according to the invention is chosen from: • (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfonates, (C6-C3o)alkylamidesulfonates, (C6-C30)alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; • (C6-C3o)akyl phosphates; • (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinates, (C6-C30)alkyl ether sulfosuccinates or (C6-C30 )alkylamido sulfosuccinates; • (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfoacetates; • (C6-C24)acylsarcosinates; • (C6-C24)acylglutamates; • (C6-C30)alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic ethers; • (C6-C3o)alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates; • (C6-C3o)alkyl sulfosuccinamates;

[0079] (C6-C24)acyl isethionates, for example sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate; mention may be made of sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate which is sold under the trade name ISELUX® LQ-CLR-SB by the company Innospec Active Chemicals; • N-[(C6-C24)acyl] taurates; • fatty acid salts; • (C8-C2o)acyl lactylates; • salts of (C6-C30)alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids; • salts of (C6-C30)alkyl ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, of (C6-C30)alkylaryl ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids or of (C6-C30)alkylamido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids; • and their mixtures.

[0080] The alkyl or acyl radicals of these different anionic surfactants preferably contain from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0081] Furthermore, the oxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated anionic surfactants preferably comprise from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, more preferably from 1 to 4 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups.

[0082] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is preferably chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroylmethylisethionate, sodium cocoylisethionate, or a mixture thereof.

[0083] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium laureth sulfate containing on average 2.2 ethylene oxide groups.

[0084] According to a particularly exemplary embodiment of the present invention, the composition may be free of any sulfate for use as an anionic surfactant. For example, the anionic surfactant may be a taurate, for example sodium methyl stearoyl taurate.

[0085] Component C-3). additional non-ionic surfactant

[0086] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional non-ionic surfactant other than that used for component B), for use as component C-3).

[0087] Examples of additional useful nonionic surfactants may include esters of polyols and saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e., derivatives containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated units, for example, oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) of C8-C24 fatty acids (fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose) and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

[0088] Fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose which may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for example methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for example methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters and more particularly the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxysterate); the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquiisostearate);the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucate® SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.;

[0089] Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose that may be mentioned include oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and methylglucose, and in particular polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid containing about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam® E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid containing approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate® SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Grillocose® PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

[0091] Examples of fatty alcohol ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Examples that may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of the CTFA designation Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Sugar ethers which may be specially mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for example the product sold under the name Mydol® 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren® 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix® NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, for example the product sold under the name Oramix® CG 110 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol® GD 70 by the company BASF; lauryl glucoside, for example the products sold under the names Plantaren® 1200 N and Plantacare® 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for example the product sold under the name Plantacare 818 / UP by the company Henkel;cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov® 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care ® CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade® KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov® 202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov® 82 by the company SEPPIC; and mixtures thereof.

[0093] A PEG-modified ester may also be used, such as PEG-7 olivate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate.

[0094] Polysorbate series, such as polysorbate 20, 21, 60, 61 and 80, or glyceride compounds, such as caprylic glyceride (also called mono-caprylin), capric glyceride (also called monocaprin) and lauric glyceride (also called monolaurin), e.g., PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride, may also be mentioned as examples of additional useful nonionic surfactants.

[0095] For the purposes of the invention, the at least one additional non-ionic surfactant may itself serve as a solubilizer, so as to facilitate the dissolution or dispersion of the components in the aqueous composition.

[0096] Component C) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, such as from 0.5% to 10%, or from 1% to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Medium / solvent

[0097] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one medium / solvent, to be used as component D), including water and / or an organic medium / solvent. Water

[0098] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water in various amounts. For low viscosity applications of the composition, for example in the form of a leave-in lotion, a relatively high amount of water may be used. For example, the water is used in a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The water content of the low viscosity composition according to the invention may preferably range from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, or from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organic medium / solvent

[0099] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic media / solvents, more preferably water-soluble organic media / solvents (solubility greater than or equal to 5% in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure).

[0100] Examples of organic media / solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched, and preferably saturated, monoalcohols or diols comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, (iso)propanol, butanol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols containing more than two hydroxyl functions, in particular C3-C6 polyols, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, for example ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or ethers thereof, for example propylene glycol monomethyl ether;as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C1-C4 alkyl ethers, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or in mixtures. ;

[0101] The organic media / solvents, when present, are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, or from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Preservative

[0102] For the use of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise a preservative. The preservative useful according to the present invention may be any preservative conventionally used for cosmetics, in particular for ampoule products.

[0103] For example, preservatives that can be used according to the present invention include methylchloroisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, hydantoin derivatives, such as DMDMH, parahydroxybenzoate ester, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, chlorphenesin, benzoic acid and a derivative thereof, for example, a salt thereof, such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, hydroxyacetophenone, an amino acid preservative, sorbitan octanate, glycerol caprylate and the like, or salicylic acid.

[0104] The preservative may be present according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5%, preferably from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 1%, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Chelating agents

[0105] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the composition may comprise a chelating agent. These chelating agents are defined and described in particular in the article “Chelating agents” of the Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708 to 739, published in 2003.

[0106] As mentioned in this article, examples of chelating agents are polyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1,3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylic acids, polyamines, aminoalcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases, aminophenols, Schiff bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, synthetic macrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, useful chelating agents may include ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), aminotriacetic acid, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid and a salt thereof, e.g., N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium salt of N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)glutamic acid (glutamic acid diacetic acid, GLDA); hydroxycarboxylic acids, e.g., citric acid, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, succinic acid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS), and a salt thereof; hydroxy aminocarboxylic acids, e.g., hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA), dihydroxyethylglycine (DEG), and a salt thereof; polyphosphonic acid, and a salt thereof;other organic acid containing phosphorus, e.g., phytic acid, and a salt thereof, e.g., sodium phytate, potassium phytate polycarboxylic acid, e.g., polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, and a salt thereof. ;

[0108] These agents are particularly useful for reducing the electrostatic bonding associated to the substantial presence of water in the intermediate makeup and / or care composition according to the invention. To do this, the addition of a sequestering agent or a complexing agent, for example disodium / tetrasodium EDTA, makes it possible to complex the free ions, and more particularly the Ca2+ type cations (mineral fillers) especially present in nacres and fillers. Consequently, when EDTA complexes these ions, the ionic strength of the water decreases. This agent is preferably chosen from aminocarboxylic acids, and is preferably EDTA or a derivative thereof.

[0109] For example, a useful chelating agent is chosen from sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate and mixtures thereof.

[0110] According to the present invention, the chelating agent may be present in the composition from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, or preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. Polysaccharide

[0111] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide, which is preferably of biotechnological origin.

[0112] In particular, these polysaccharides may, where appropriate, be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valence, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (for example: hydroxyethylcellulose).

[0113] As examples of polysaccharides which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of

[0114] a) seaweed extracts such as alginates, carrageenans and agar-agar, and mixtures thereof. Examples of carrageenans that may be mentioned include Satiagum UTC30® and UTCiO® from the company Degussa; an alginate that may be mentioned is Sodium Talginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;

[0115] b) gums, such as xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and non-ionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, gum ghatti, karaya gum, locust bean gum, agar gum, scleroglucan gum and mixtures thereof; Examples that may be cited include xanthan gum sold under the name Keltrol® CG-T by CP Kelco, gellan gum sold under the name Kelcogel® CG LA by CP Kelco, guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP 105® by Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac gum® (1% glucomannan) sold by GfN;

[0116] c) starches, preferably modified, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from legumes such as white lentils, from tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; Corn Starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca Pure® by the company National Starch;

[0117] d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from the company National Starch;

[0118] e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-celluloses; mention may be made in particular of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples which may be mentioned include hydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Natrosol™ 250 HHR PC by the company Ashland, or under the name Cellosize™ QP 4400 H by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemical), cetylhydroxyethylcelluloses sold under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon;

[0119] f) pectins,

[0120] g) chitosan and derivatives thereof,

[0121] h) polyholosides comprising at least two saccharides, preferably of natural origin, and specially chosen from:

[0122] - aldoses such as

[0123] - pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose, for example,

[0124] - hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example,

[0125] - ketoses like fructose,

[0126] - deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose,

[0127] - saccharide derivatives such as uronic acids, for example man- nuronic acid, guluronic acid, galacturonic acid or glucuronic acid, or itols, for example mannitol or sorbitol.

[0128] Mention may in particular be made of polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of aL-fucose, aD-galactose and galacturonic acid, for example biosaccharide gum 1 sold under the brand name Fucogel® 1000 PP or Fucogel® 1.5P by the company Solabia,

[0129] i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as the anionic polysaccharide bearing as a repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as the product bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4 sold under the reference Glycofilm 1.5P by the Solabia company,

[0130] j) and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, the polysaccharide of the present invention is chosen from

[0132] - gums such as xanthan gum or gellan gum;

[0133] - cellulose and its derivatives, for example hydroxyethylcellulose;

[0134] - polyholosides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, for example biosaccharide gum 1.

[0135] According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide, such as according to one embodiment, can also serve as a gelling agent for the composition of the present invention.

[0136] According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.0001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 1% by weight of the polysaccharides, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional active ingredient

[0137] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional active ingredients, in particular cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical ingredients.

[0138] In the context of the present invention, an additional active ingredient is an active ingredient other than polydatin or resveratrol present in the composition and the other active ingredients specifically defined above.

[0139] Advantageously, this additional active ingredient, cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical, may be intended to exert a cosmetic, care or hygiene effect on keratinous materials such as the skin, including the face, hair, eyelashes, scalp, and preferably on the skin.

[0140] The choice of this additional active ingredient is of course conditioned by the effect sought jointly by the composition in question.

[0141] Thus, a composition according to the invention may further comprise an active ingredient having an anti-aging activity, or a hydrating activity.

[0142] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional active ingredient(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, modified by the proposed addition.

[0143] These additional active ingredients are generally present in the composition in a range of 0.0001% to 20% by weight and preferably 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Additives

[0144] According to different embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are intended for application to the skin. In accordance with these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may comprise various ingredients conventionally useful in compositions for conditioning the skin, such as humectants, fatty substances, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrheic agents, agents for preventing loss and / or for promoting regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, acidifying agents, opacifiers, pearlescent or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives.

[0145] A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients is contained in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0170586. Other examples of these additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).

[0146] A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional additives and / or the quantity thereof in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not significantly, negatively affected by the envisaged addition.

[0147] These additives may be selected in various ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition that exhibits desired properties, for example, consistency or texture. In particular, the additives, if used, and the amounts thereof are determined based on the specific products / applications thereof, for example, a leave-in conditioner, a rinse-out conditioner, a skin care conditioner and the like.

[0148] These additives may be present in the composition in an amount of between 0.01% and 50% relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Method and use

[0149] The composition according to the present invention can generally be prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Nevertheless, it is understood that a person skilled in the art can choose the preparation method, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, for example their solubility in the vehicle, and the application envisaged for the compositions or the kit.

[0150] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be used for skin care. This use can be manifested in the form of a skin care process, comprising the step of applying the composition of the invention to said skin.

[0151] The composition according to the present invention is preferably useful for formulating skin care products. Furthermore, according to the above detailed discussions, it should be understood that the composition according to the present invention may be free of silicone oil.

[0152] The present invention therefore provides the use of a surfactant combination composed of at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester or polyglycerol fatty acid ether according to component B) and another surfactant, for example one or more according to component C), to enhance the performance of a hydroxyl-containing acid while avoiding or reducing irritation suffered by the skin, in particular that caused by acid components and / or by a conventional surfactant provided by any cosmetic and / or therapeutic composition. For example, the surfactant combination may be mixed with the cosmetic and / or therapeutic composition comprising an irritant acid before application; or the surfactant combination may be applied to the skin before or after application of the cosmetic and / or therapeutic composition comprising an irritant acid.

[0153] The invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, which present particularly advantageous embodiments.

[0154] Although the numerical ranges and parameters within the general scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values ​​indicated in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation observed in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope. Examples

[0155] The quantities / concentrations of ingredients in the compositions / formulas described below have been expressed in % by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition / formula.

[0156] Materials:

[0157] LACTIC ACID: LACTIC ACID 90, available from MUSASHINO-CHEMICAL LABORATORY;

[0158] PEG-7GLYCERYL COCOATE: CETIOL HE, available from BASF;

[0159] POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE: SUNSOFT A-121E-C, available from TAIYO KAGAKU; and

[0160] other materials not specified herein were each commercially available. EXAMPLE I, PREPARATION OF COMPOSITIONS

[0161] The compositions were prepared according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3 as in Table 1 below:

[0162] [Tables 1] Components Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex.3 CE.l CE. 2 CE. 3 PEG-7GLYCERYL COCOATE 1% 1% POLY-GLYCERYL-5 LAURATE 2% 2% 2% LACTIC ACID 3.33% 3.33% 3.33% 3.33% 3.33% 3.33% COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 1% 1% SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE 1% 1% XANTHAN GUM 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% SALICYLIC ACID 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% GLYCERIN 3% 3% 3% 3% 3% 3% WATER QSP 100% QSP 100% QSP 100% QSP 100% QSP 100% QSP 100%

[0163] The compositions listed above were prepared according to the manufacturing process known in the field. In brief, the procedure for preparing the compositions included the following steps:

[0164] 1). dissolution of lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycerin in hot water at a temperature of 70°C, mix until completely dissolved;

[0165] 2). Add xanthan gum and mix until no lumps are observed, then cooled to room temperature; and

[0166] 3). adding the other components one by one in an arbitrary order. EXAMPLE II

[0167] The effect of the compositions on cell viability was determined, comprising the following steps: applying an effective amount of the compositions to a reconstructed skin model, resting, and then establishing statistics on the amount of viable cells. The greater the viability, the higher the comfort level.

[0168] In addition, the effectiveness of the compositions was tested by a panel of 60 people, according to the following protocol:

[0169] - 60 Chinese women, aged 22 to 45, all skin types, self-reporting rough skin and dull, lack of radiance, medium to dark skin with fine lines / wrinkles under the eyes ;

[0170] - trial time: Week 0, Week 2, Week 3;

[0171] - Scoring method: scoring smooth skin at each "test time" in using the grade of dermatologist known in the art.

[0172] The results of sebum migration were provided as follows:

[0173] [Tables2] Properties Ex.l Ex. 2 Ex.3 CE. 1 CE.2 CE. 3 Epskin (cell viability) 79% 84% 69.4% 33.8% 6% 5% Efficacy (clinical panel), Week 3 40% improvement in smooth skin, 13% reduction in eye wrinkles

Claims

Claims

1. A composition for skin conditioning, comprising the following components: A) at least one hydroxyl group-containing acid, selected from the group consisting of α-hydroxy acid, gluconic acid, lac-tobionic acid and salicylic acid, or a precursor thereof, which α-hydroxy acid is preferably a lower acid having 2-12 carbon atoms, preferably 2-8 carbon atoms, preferably 2-6 carbon atoms; B) from 0.5% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of a polyglycerol fatty acid ester or poly-glycerol fatty acid ether; and C) at least one additional surfactant other than component B) and further comprising at least one polysaccharide, which is selected from the group consisting of gums; cellulose and its derivatives;polysaccharides comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, said polysaccharide being present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.;

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein component A) is a monocarboxylic acid.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component A) comprises glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and salicylic acid, preferably lactic acid, gluconic acid or glycolic acid.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which component B) is selected from the group consisting of esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 3 to 10 glycerol units, and at least one fatty acid containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, or from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein component C) comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant C1), which is selected from the group consisting of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2oalkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines and (C8-C2o alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein component C) comprises at least one anionic surfactant C-2), which is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, surfactants comprising anionic carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, sulfoacetate, sulfosuccinate, phosphate, isethionate, sarcosinate, glutamate, lactylate or taurate groups, fatty acid salts, galactosiduronic acid salts, carboxylic acid ether surfactant salts and mixtures thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein component C) comprises at least one additional non-ionic surfactant C-3) other than that used for component B), which is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters of glucose or alkylglucose, oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose, sugar ethers, a PEG-modified ester, the polysorbate series, and glyceride compounds; such as coco-glucoside, PEG-7, PEG-30, PEG-80, polysorbate 20 or 21, caprylic glyceride, capric glyceride, lauric glyceride, or PEG-6 caprylic / capric glyceride.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising at least one chelating agent selected from the group consisting of sodium citrate, disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium GLDA, trisodium EDDS, phytic acid, sodium phytate, potassium phytate, and mixtures thereof.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum or gellan gum; hydroxyethylcellulose; biosaccharide gum 1.