Another cosmetic application of viniferine

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of viniferine to prevent, reduce or erase damage caused by exposure to blue light on the skin or hair.

Description

Title of the invention: Other cosmetic application of viniferine

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of viniferine to prevent, reduce or erase damage caused by blue light on the skin or appendages.

[0002] The wavelengths of blue light are between 380 and 500 nm and are emitted by the sun but also and especially by artificial light sources, in particular by LED bulbs and all screens, omnipresent in daily life. Given the time of exposure to this light that this represents, numerous studies have been initiated over the last ten years in order to evaluate the risks. These studies repeatedly demonstrate that blue light has harmful effects on the eye and sleep, and it has recently been highlighted that it has deleterious consequences on the skin and appendages. It seems to act on the skin by mechanisms different from those involved in UVB and UVA, but it causes stronger and more lasting hyperpigmentation [L. Duteil et al. Differences in visible light-induced pigmentation according to wavelength: a clinical and histological study in comparison with UVB exposure, Pigment Cell Melanoma Res.2014 Sep;27(5):822-6]. Melanin production by melanocytes is stimulated via activation of a protein, opsin-3, in response to its exposure to blue light [C. Regazzetti et al. Melanocytes Sense Blue Light and Regulate Pigmentation through Opsin-3, Journal of Investigative Dermatology (2018) Vol. 138, 171-178]. This damage is mainly observed in dark skin of phototypes type III and above, but it has also been shown that blue light is involved in skin aging by altering the structure of keratinocytes and fibroblasts and by lowering the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

[0003] Various cosmetic compositions have been developed, some of which are commercially available, to protect the skin from the disadvantages of prolonged exposure to blue light. They include active ingredients capable of forming a barrier screen to wavelengths based on photoprotective molecules, combined with anti-aging, moisturizing, anti-oxidant, and anti-free radical agents, making it possible to limit the aforementioned harmful effects on the skin. It is clear that most of them do not target hyperpigmentation specifically caused by exposure to blue light.

[0004] The invention aims to remedy this deficiency. According to the invention, it was discovered by chance that viniferine had the power to overcome this drawback.

[0005] By viniferine according to the invention is meant a polymer of resveratrol whose monomeric units are chosen from cis-resveratrol and trans-resveratrol, and in particular e-viniferine and δ-viniferine which are dimers of resveratrol, and α-viniferine which is a cyclic trimer of resveratrol. In the present text and specifically in the experimental part, reference is made to e-viniferine, and even more particularly to trans-e-viniferine, but the invention is not restricted to the use of this single dimer, it extends to oligomers of resveratrol, having from 2 to 10, preferably from 2 to 4, resveratrol units (trans and / or cis).

[0006] The hydroxyl groups of resveratrol are very unstable in air and light, which is why it is relevant to resort to their conversion into a stable group, in particular into an ether group or an ester group. Thus, the invention includes the use of any aforementioned oligomer of which at least one hydroxyl group is in the form of an ether or ester group. Advantageously, the ether group corresponds to the formula -OA and the ester group corresponds to the formula -O-CO-A, in which A represents a hydrocarbon radical preferably having from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic, cyclic or alicyclic. According to a preferred variant, A is a radical of a fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, and better still it is chosen from the radicals of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C16.

[0007] Thus, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of viniferine for preventing, reducing or erasing damage caused by exposure to blue light on the skin or integuments. It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for preventing, reducing or erasing damage caused by exposure to blue light on the skin or integuments, said method comprising the application to the skin or integuments of a cosmetic composition comprising viniferine.

[0008] The use and the cosmetic treatment according to the invention may, respectively, meet the following characteristics, considered alone or in combination:

[0009] viniferine is preferably chosen from any of the resveratrol oligomers mentioned above; advantageously, it is e-viniferine and better still trans-e-viniferine;

[0010] viniferine may comprise at least one hydroxyl group in the form of an ester or in the form of an ether, and in particular an ester or an ether as defined above. When one or more hydroxyl groups are in the form of an ester, it is preferably a fatty acid ester, and better still a palmitic acid ester;

[0011] Viniferine can be used or present in the form of a single oligomer, in the form of a mixture of oligomers; whether in the form of a single oligomer or in the form of a mixture of oligomers, it can be associated with resveratrol, whether cis or trans, or even in a mixture.

[0012] Viniferine can be extracted from different plants, and in particular from the vine, of which the most common species Vitis vinifera is preferred. It can be obtained from different parts of the vine, for example fruits or parts of the fruit such as seeds or skin, but also from vine shoots or stalks. It can be extracted from fresh or dried vine shoots.

[0013] According to a variant of the invention, viniferine is in the form of a plant extract containing it, and in particular an extract of vine shoot or stalk. It is then associated with resveratrol and other polyphenols present in the shoots and stalks.

[0014] Such a plant extract is obtained by bringing the plant into contact with water and / or an organic solvent. In this way, viniferine, as well as resveratrol and other monomers, as well as any other oligomers of resveratrol which are present in the plant are solubilized in the water and / or the organic solvent. The extraction can be carried out by subjecting the mixture of plant and water and / or organic solvent to a treatment such as microwaves, ultrasound, maceration-leaching or even supercritical fluids. Advantageously, the plant extract thus recovered can also be subjected to one or more additional extraction steps using an organic solvent (for example ethyl acetate or ethyl ether). Then, the plant extract can be washed and stored in lyophilized form. When the plant extract is in lyophilized form, it is a dry plant extract.

[0015] A viniferine composition intended for the cosmetic treatment of the invention advantageously comprises 0.001% to 1% by weight of viniferine relative to the weight of the composition.

[0016] In its application according to the invention, viniferine can be combined with any other ingredient, in particular an active ingredient, and for example any photo-protective agent making it possible to protect the skin and the appendages from blue light or, with a view to a broader spectrum of action, any agent making it possible to protect the skin and the appendages from other harmful radiation such as UVA and UVB, but also any active ingredient strengthening the skin's defenses against damage caused by blue light, or facilitating their repair. It will be advantageously combined with any excipient conventionally used in a cosmetic composition such as perfumes, preservatives, surfactants, texturizers. Such a composition may be presented in any galenic form normally used in cosmetics.

[0017] The invention is illustrated below with the support of experimental tests demonstrating the effect of viniferine and the following figures.

[0018] [Fig. 1] represents the melanin content expressed as a percentage of optical density at 405 nm of a culture of untreated HEM cells (NT) or treated with 16 pg / mL of composition Cl (Cl) or with 2 pg / mL of composition C2 (C2), before exposure to blue light at 412 nm or 450 nm under the conditions described below for the melanin assay, compared to the optical density at 405 nm of a culture of untreated and unirradiated HEM cells (TN for negative control).

[0019] [Fig.2] represents the melanin content expressed as a percentage of optical density at 405 nm of untreated (NT) or composition Cil (Cl 1) or composition C12 (C12) treated human skin explants, before exposure to blue light at 412 nm or 450 nm under the conditions described below for the melanin assay, compared to the optical density at 405 nm of untreated and unirradiated explants (TN for negative control).

[0020] In the following experimental part, the preventive effect of e-viniferine (trans-e-viniferine) at different concentrations, on the damage caused by blue light at two wavelengths (412 nm, characteristic of solar blue light and 450 nm, characteristic of blue light from screens) was evaluated by means of a test for determining the melanin content of cells treated with a composition of the invention. In order to determine the maximum concentrations to be tested, the toxicity of different concentrations of the tested compositions was first evaluated via the MTT test, a live cell counting test involving the tetrazolium salt MTT as a reagent and well known to those skilled in the art.

[0021] Example 1: Effectiveness of a composition of the invention evaluated in a test on human epidermal melanocytes e-viniferine compositions tested

[0022] The following compositions of e-viniferine were tested.

[0023] Cl is a plant extract, obtained from dry vine shoots, containing 10 to 30% trans-resveratrol (m / m) and 10 to 20% trans-e-viniferin (m / m).

[0024] C2 is 95% purified trans-e-viniferine. Cells

[0025] The tests were carried out on human epidermal melanocytes (HEM), which are cells that produce melanin and are therefore responsible for skin pigmentation. The HEM cells were cultured on a specific complete growth medium, at 37°C and in a 5% CO2 atmosphere. Melanin content test

[0026] HEM cells were cultured at 37°C, in a 5% CO2 atmosphere and treated with a determined concentration of composition Cl or composition C2.

[0027] After 24 hours of incubation at 37°C, in a 5% CO2 atmosphere, the cells are exposed to blue light, 412 nm or 450 nm or kept in the dark (control) for 5 hours per day, for 3 days, representing a total irradiation of 120 J / cm2.

[0028] 24 hours after the last irradiation, the cells are washed, detached and centrifuged. In order to lyse the cells, the cell pellets are solubilized in a solution of NaOH IM at 80°C for 1 hour, allowing melanin to be solubilized.

[0029] For each test, the following were carried out:

[0030] a blank test in which the cells are not treated with one of the compositions C1 and C2 and are exposed to blue light under the same conditions as the tests;

[0031] a negative control (NC) in which the cells are not treated with one of the compositions C1 and C2 and are kept in the dark and therefore not exposed to blue light; and

[0032] a control in which the cells are treated with composition C1 or composition C2 and are kept in the dark, therefore not being exposed to blue light.

[0033] The tests are carried out in triplicate. Evaluation of test results

[0034] The coloration intensity determined by the optical density measured at 405 nm is directly correlated to the melanin content.

[0035] The melanin content is calculated by relating the absorbance value to that of the negative control.

[0036] The percentage variation in melanin content compared to the blank test or the negative control is calculated according to the following equation:

[0037] % variation in melanin content = [Abs405e - Abs405t] - [Abs405t - Abs405b] x 100

[0038] in which

[0039] Abs405e is the average absorbance value measured under each treatment condition,

[0040] Abs405t is the average absorbance value measured in each blank test

[0041] Abs405b is the average absorbance value measured in the negative control. Results

[0042] They are represented in [Fig.l]. The data collected in this figure represent the mean + SEM of two experiments carried out in 6 to 18 replicates. The effect of the compositions on pigmentation is calculated relative to the induction of pigmentation between the untreated control and negative control (NC), according to the Mann-Whitney statistical test:

[0043] # p < 0.05, ### p < 0.001, versus TN

[0044] ** p < 0.01, versus NT for blue light at 450 nm

[0045] + p < 0.05; ++ p < 0.01, versus NT for blue light at 412 nm

[0046] First, it is observed that exposure of melanocytes to blue light causes a significant increase in melanin production, at 412 nm and 450 nm.

[0047] It is then observed that the treatment of melanocytes with e-viniferin makes it possible to significantly reduce the production of melanin. For blue light at 450 nm, it is seen that the effectiveness of e-viniferin is such that it makes it possible to lower the content of melanin at the content of a culture of melanocytes not exposed to blue light.

[0048] Example 2: Efficacy of a composition of the invention evaluated in a test on human skin explants Viniferine compositions tested

[0049] The following compositions of viniferine were tested.

[0050] C11 and C12 are two compositions containing respectively 0.05% (m / m) and 0.1% (m / m) of viniferine (trans-e-viniferine) in the form of an extract of dry vine shoots comprising viniferine of which the majority of the hydroxyl groups have been esterified to palmitate. The formulation of composition C11 is indicated in Table 1 and that of composition C12 is indicated in Table 2 below where the constituents are named under their INCI name from the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

[0051] [Tables 1] INCI name % (m / m) AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 19.991 METHYLPROPANEDIOL 1.640 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 1.620 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.840 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.540 PALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACT QSP VI-NIFERINE 0.050 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.300 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.300 POTASSIUM SORBATE 0.100 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.100 XANTHAN GUM 0.100 CITRIC ACID 0.062 PHENYLPROPANOL 0.060 TOCOPHEROL 0.009

[0052] [Tables2] INCI name % (m / m) AQUA / WATER / EAU QSP 100 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 19.991 METHYLPROPANEDIOL 1.640 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 1.620 BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.840 PALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACT QSP VI-NIFERINE 0.100 ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 0.540 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.300 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.300 POTASSIUM SORBATE 0.100 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.100 XANTHAN GUM 0.100 CITRIC ACID 0.062 PHENYLPROPANOL 0.060 TOCOPHEROL 0.009 Atoning

[0053] The tests were carried out on human skin explants from plastic surgery. The biopsies are divided into explants of 8 mm diameter and maintained in survival mode in complete medium, at 37°C and in an atmosphere of 5% CO2. Melanin content test

[0054] The skin explants are exposed to blue light, 412 nm or 450 nm or kept in the dark (control) for 5 hours per day, for 3 days, representing a total irradiation of 120 J / cm2. Before each exposure, the explants are treated overnight with compositions Cl 1 or C12.

[0055] 24 hours after the last irradiation, the explants are collected and incubated in a IM NaOH solution at 80°C for 3 hours, allowing melanin to be solubilized.

[0056] For each test, the following were carried out:

[0057] a blank test in which the explants are not treated and are exposed to light blue under the same conditions as the tests;

[0058] a negative control (NC) in which the explants are not treated and are kept in the dark, therefore not exposed to blue light; and

[0059] a control in which the cells are treated with composition C1 or composition C2 and are kept in the dark, therefore not being exposed to blue light.

[0060] The tests are carried out in triplicate, on three explants. Evaluation of test results

[0061] The coloration intensity determined by the optical density measured at 405 nm is directly correlated to the melanin content.

[0062] The melanin content is calculated by relating the absorbance value to that of the negative control.

[0063] The percentage variation in melanin content compared to the blank test or the negative control is calculated according to the following equation:

[0064] % variation in melanin content = [Abs405e - Abs405t] - [Abs405t - Abs405b] x 100

[0065] in which

[0066] Abs405e is the average absorbance value measured under each treatment condition,

[0067] Abs405t is the average absorbance value measured in each blank test

[0068] Abs405b is the average absorbance value measured in the negative control. Results

[0069] They are represented in [Fig.2]. The data collected in this figure represent the mean + SEM of the experiments carried out in triplicate, on 3 explants. The effect of the compositions on pigmentation is calculated in relation to the induction of pigmentation between the untreated control and the negative control (NC), according to the ANOVA statistical test:

[0070] ## p < 0.01, ### p < 0.001, versus TN

[0071] ** p < 0.01, *** p < 0.001, versus NT for blue light at 450 nm

[0072] +++ p < 0.001, versus NT for blue light at 412 nm

[0073] It is first observed that exposure of the explants to blue light causes a significant increase in melanin production, at 412 nm and 450 nm.

[0074] It is then noted that the treatment of the explants with Cl 1 or C12 containing e-viniferin makes it possible to significantly reduce the production of melanin. It is seen that the effectiveness of e-viniferin is such that it makes it possible to lower the melanin content to the content of an explant not exposed to blue light.

[0075] Example 3: Formulation of an anti-blue light serum

[0076] Table 3 below lists the constituents under their INCI name of an anti-blue light serum and their content in % by mass relative to the total mass of the serum. It contains viniferine (trans-e-viniferine) in a use according to the invention.

[0077] [Tables 3] INCI name of constituents % (m / m) WATER QSP 100 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 7.000000 GLYCERIN 5.000000 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 1.000000 SQUALANE 1.000000 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DISTEARATE 0.500000 PALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACT 0.1 to 1 BISABOLOL 0.600000 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.500000

[0078] Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract is an extract of dry vine shoots comprising viniferine, the majority of whose hydroxyl groups have been esterified to palmitate. The content indicated for this extract is equivalent to a content of viniferine in this formulation falling within the range of 0.001 to 1% (m / m).

[0079] Example 4: Formulation of an anti-blue light cream

[0080] Table 4 below lists the constituents under their INCI name from the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, of an anti-blue light cream and their content in % by mass relative to the total mass of the serum. It contains viniferine in a use according to the invention.

[0081] [Tables4] Nom INCI Mixte % INCI WATER QSP 100 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 7,000000 GLYCERIN 4,000000 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,400000 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 1,000000 GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 1,000000 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER EXTRACT 1,000000 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 1,000000 VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) SEED OIL 1,000000 HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL 0,500000 TRIHEPTANOIN 0,200000 PANTHENOL 0,100000 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 0,100000 SQUALANE 0,100000 GLYCOLIC ACID QS pH = 5.5 CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE 0,500000 BISABOLOL 0,500000 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0,500000 PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) QSP PRESERVATIVE QSP PALMITOYL GRAPEVINE SHOOT EXTRACT 0.1 to 1 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 0,250000 XANTHAN GUM 0,200000 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,200000 CASSIA ANGUSTIFOLIA SEED PO LYSACCHARIDE 0,160000 PAPAIN 0,007500 TOCOPHEROL 0,005000 ALGIN 0,002000

[0082] Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract is an extract of dried grapevine shoots comprising viniferine, the majority of whose hydroxyl groups have been esterified to palmitate. The content indicated for this extract is equivalent to a viniferine content in this formulation belonging to the range of 0.001 to 1% (m / m).

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of viniferine to reduce or erase damage caused by exposure to blue light on the skin or appendages.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one hydroxyl group of viniferine is in the form of an ester or in the form of an ether.

3. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that at least one hydroxyl group of viniferine is in the form of a fatty acid ester, preferably a palmitic acid ester.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that viniferine is associated with resveratrol and / or one of its oligomers.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the viniferine is in the form of a vine shoot extract.

6. Cosmetic treatment method for reducing or erasing damage caused by exposure to blue light on the skin or appendages, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin or appendages of a cosmetic composition comprising viniferine.

7. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that the viniferine is in the form of an ester or an ether, preferably in the form of a fatty acid ester such as a palmitic acid ester.

8. Method according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises 0.001% to 1% by weight of viniferine relative to the weight of the composition.

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