Composition comprising ethyl cellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane oil, a mono- or diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol, and an ester oil

Abstract

Composition comprising ethylcellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane oil, a mono- or diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol, and an ester oil. The present invention relates to an anhydrous skincare and / or makeup composition comprising: a) ethylcellulose; b) at least one linear or branched mono-alcohol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, c) at least one linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid monoester or diester of polyglycerol having 2 to 6 glycerol units; and d) a liquid oily phase comprising i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and ii) at least one non-volatile oil of the alkane type;and iii) at least one particular non-volatile ester oil of the ester type of formula R1COOR2 in which R1COO represents a carboxylic acid remnant, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms.;

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising ethyl cellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane oil, a mono- or diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol and an ester oil Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to provide for the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids. It also relates to a method of care and / or makeup of human keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids in which said composition is applied.

[0002] Cosmetic makeup compositions are commonly used to provide an aesthetic color to keratin materials such as skin, but also to beautify irregular skin by hiding spots and dyschromia, reducing the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles. Many formulations have been developed to date.

[0003] The vast majority of eyeshadows (or blushes) on the cosmetics market are products in the form of powders whose shine is provided exclusively by reflective particles, in particular interference pigments such as mother-of-pearls having a natural substrate such as mica or a synthetic substrate such as a borosilicate or a synthetic fluorphlogopite. This type of composition does not make it possible to obtain a sufficiently intense shine.

[0004] Among other current eyeshadow formulations, there are - anhydrous creams with a high content of fatty substances such as oils or waxes such as the commercial product Longwear Cream Eyeshadow® by Chanel; - compact powders with a high binder content made from oils such as Chanel Longwear Powder Eyeshadow® and Ombre Première Cruise Gloss Top Coat Eyeshadow®; - hot-poured solid anhydrous formulas, particularly in the form of crayons based on ester oils and waxes, such as the commercial product Jumbo Crayon® from Nyx;

[0005] - gloss-type formulas such as the commercial product Eye Gloss Smudger® by Yves Saint-Laurent, similar to lip glosses, colored or not, and generally containing a high content of hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene and / or polydecene.

[0006] In all these types of anhydrous galenics, the shiny effect is provided by the oils (esters, silicones, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane), in the presence or absence of reflective particles such as pearls or glitter. Despite providing good shine, these products tend to produce an uncomfortable sticky effect, migrate easily into the creases of the eyelid or transfer and therefore have little staying power over time.

[0007] There are also liquid aqueous formulas in the form of a more or less gelled oil-in-water emulsion, such as the commercial products Eye Tint Liquid Eyeshadow® by Georgio Armani, Ombre Première Laque® by Chanel and Glitter & Glow Liquid Eyeshadow® by Stila Styles, which are based on a high content of oils and pearls. However, the wet shine appearance provided by the water when applying these products generally disappears after a few moments, leaving only a particulate shine due to the pearls after drying, the residual deposit of the formula being matte.

[0008] To date, the only category of cosmetic products with a fast-drying, transfer-free, high-shine deposit without the aid of reflective particles is nail polish. But these products are not suitable for application to the face, particularly on the eyelids. Indeed, such products could lead to tolerance problems and would produce a film after application with a high, uncomfortable rigidity.

[0009] There remains a need to find new compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, in particular eyeshadows or blushers making it possible to obtain intense shine without necessarily resorting to reflective particles, having good staying power over time, with a very low sticky effect or even no sticky effect and not transferring or migrating into the folds of the eyelid, very quickly after application.

[0010] During its research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) ethylcellulose; and (b) at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and

[0011] c) at least one monoester or diester of linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units; and

[0012] d) a liquid fatty phase comprising (i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and (ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil of the ester type of formula RiCOOR2 in which RiCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms; said non-volatile ester oil being chosen such that the composition has at 25°C: 1) a stickiness value less than or equal to 0.01 Ns (newtons.seconds), preferably less than or equal to 0.005 Ns; and

[0013] 2) a gloss greater than or equal to 50 gloss units at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 brightness units; and

[0014] 3) a freezing time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the material keratin or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds; said composition being in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase shift angle between 30 and 60°.

[0015] This discovery is the basis of the invention.

[0016] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: (a) ethylcellulose; and (b) at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and

[0017] c) at least one monoester or diester of linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units; and

[0018] d) a liquid fatty phase comprising (i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and (ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil of formula RiCOOR2 in which RiCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms; said ester oil being chosen such that the composition has at 25°C: said non-volatile ester oil being chosen such that the composition has at 25°C: 1) a stickiness value less than or equal to 0.01 Ns (newtons.seconds), preferably less than or equal to 0.005 Ns; and

[0019] 2) a gloss greater than or equal to 50 gloss units at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 brightness units; and

[0020] 3) a freezing time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the material keratin or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds;

[0021] According to a preferred embodiment, said composition is in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 60°, more particularly between 500 and 2800 Pa, for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 50°.

[0022] The invention relates to a process for coating keratin materials such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0023] The invention relates more particularly to a process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0024] In the context of the present invention, by “keratin materials” is meant the skin, in particular the areas of the face, more particularly the eyelids.

[0025] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness) likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition comprising a content of less than or equal to 5.0% by weight of water, preferably less than or equal to 2.0% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1.0% by weight, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, or even free of water. Where appropriate, such small quantities of water may in particular be provided by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual quantities thereof. Tights measurement protocol

[0027] The composition is deposited in the form of a film in a silicone mold 2.5 cm wide and 5.5 cm long (for example, of the Silikomart 20.026.00.0060 SF026® cake mold type). 1.70 + / - 0.02 g of the composition is weighed into the silicone mold. The product is spread using a flat spatula, such as, for example, a spatula of the Labo Moderne, BC3219 Spatule® type, so as to obtain a homogeneous layer over the entire bottom of the mold. The mold with the product is stored in a space protected from drafts, such as a cupboard drawer, and left to dry for 24 hours.

[0028] The film is carefully removed from the silicone mold and placed flat on a flexible sheet of the Supplale® type such as, for example, the commercial reference Soudotique PG SARL® or DFSUP10075® beige.

[0029] The assembly is positioned on the platform of a MicroSystem TA.XT Plus® Stable Texturometer equipped with a 5kg sensor, an SMS P / 5S® spherical traction mobile and Exponent Connect® software. The parameters of the compression tests with maintenance over time are as follows:

[0030] Approach speed (or pre-speed): 0.5 mm / s; Speed ​​(from contact detection): 0.1 mm / s; Force (and corresponding pressure): 0.01 Newtons; Depth of insertion: 0.15 mm; Hold time: 5 seconds; Withdrawal speed (or post-speed): 2 mm / s.

[0031] Four successive measurements are carried out by positioning the film so that the measurement points are equally distributed over the surface of the film, avoiding the most irregular areas. For each test, the curve measuring the force exerted on the mobile as a function of time is plotted.

[0032] The adhesive is characterized by the detachment work measured during unloading (tensile phase).

[0033] The value of the stickiness of the composition, expressed in newtons.seconds (Ns), corresponds to the average of the values ​​of the areas of the 4 measurements of stickiness force as a function of time during the movement of the mobile (surface delimited between the curve of the points measured during the ascent of the mobile - negative force values ​​- and the abscissa axis, until this curve reaches a zero force value). Gloss measurement protocol

[0034] The sample is spread in the form of a 50.8 pm film on a contrast card of the Byko Chart 2A® or Penopac IA® type from BYK using an automatic film spreader of the Byko-Drive XL® type from BYK equipped with a film spreading bar such as a 5353® variable slit height square from BYK, set for a slit height of 50.8 pm.

[0035] The contrast card is placed on the applicator platform and the 50.8 pm slit-side bar is placed on the contrast card, at the level of the information zone to be filled in. Approximately 2g of product is deposited just in front of the bar. The automatic applicator and the movement of the bar are started so as to ensure the deposition of a regular film of the expected thickness.

[0036] The film is left to dry at 25°C for 15 minutes.

[0037] The gloss of the film applied to the black areas of the contrast map is measured with an angle of incidence of 60°; this is expressed in gloss units.

[0038] The gloss unit is a measurement scale of a gloss meter (e.g., Konica Minolta Rhopoint IQ-S®), established from a highly polished black glass reference standard, with a defined refractive index and specular reflectance of 100 gloss units at a given angle, with the minimum point set at 0 for a perfectly matt surface. This scale is suitable for most coatings and non-metallic materials such as paint and plastic).

[0039] The measurement can be repeated over time to assess the gloss retention. Protocol for assessing the setting time

[0040] When the product is applied in a thin layer (on skin or on a synthetic surface), the surface of the deposit sets slightly, by forming a very thin, flexible but non-sticky film, which prevents the product from transferring to another surface. This can be likened to a drying time.

[0041] 0.05g + / -0.01g of the sample is placed on the inner face of the forearm, which is spread quickly (in 2-3 seconds), in a thin layer with the finger to form a film of uniform thickness over a surface area of ​​approximately 8 cm2.

[0042] The stopwatch is started and the surface setting of the deposit is assessed approximately every 10 seconds by lightly pressing the pad of the index finger on it and then observing the presence or absence of traces of product transferred to the index finger.

[0043] The setting time is the time after which no further transfer of product from the forearm to the index finger is observed. Ethylcellulose

[0044] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a) at least ethylcellulose.

[0045] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain consisting of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5C1 ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical. The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to a content of alkoxy groups, in particular ethoxy, of 54.88%.

[0046] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0047] The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably chosen so that the viscosity of a 5% by weight solution in an 80 / 20 mixture (toluene / ethanol) at 25°C ranges from 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably from 5 to 200 mPa.s, for example from 5 to 150 mPa.s. (ASTM D 914 standard).

[0048] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0049] It is for example marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard® from Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium® and ETHOCEL standard 100 FP Premium®. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose® type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0050] The ethylcellulose content preferably varies from 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, and more particularly from 18 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mono-alcohol

[0051] The compositions of the invention comprise b) at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0052] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohol(s).

[0053] This mono-alcohol may be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0054] As mono-alcohol, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.

[0055] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise ethanol.

[0056] According to an advantageous embodiment, the quantity of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 10 to 25% by weight, preferably from 12 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0057] Monoester or diester of C -C carboxylic acid and polyglycerol

[0058] The composition of the invention comprises c) at least one monoester or diester of linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units.

[0059] Parmi les monoester ou diester d’acide carboxylique en Ci2-Ci8, linéaire ou ramifié et de polyglycérol comprenant de 2 à 6 unités glycérols utilisables dans les compositions de l’invention, on peut citer à titre d’exemples, le Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate, lePolyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, lePolyglyceryl-3 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, le Polyglyceryl-2 Myristate, le Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, le Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate,Polyglyceryl-6 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0060] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diester of linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, in particular those chosen from Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0061] According to a particularly preferred form, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate is used such as the commercial products sold under the following names: AEC Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.) Cithrol PG32IS® (Croda Europe, Ltd.); CremerCOOR PG3 DIS® (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dub ISO G3® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Lameform TGI® (BASF Corporation); Plurol Diisostearique® (Gattefosse) Risorex PGIS32® (Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.).

[0062] According to an advantageous embodiment, the quantity of monoester or diester of C2-C18 carboxylic acid and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units varies from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Liquid fatty phase

[0063] A composition according to the invention contains a liquid fatty phase comprising i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and ii) at least one non-volatile alkane oil; and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil of formula R1COOR2 in which R1COO represents a carboxylic acid residue, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms; said ester oil being chosen such that the composition has at 25°C: 1) a stickiness value less than or equal to 0.01 Ns, preferably less than or equal to 0.005 N.s; and

[0064] 2) a gloss greater than or equal to 50 gloss units at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 brightness units; and 3) a setting time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the keratin material or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds.

[0065] Such a liquid fatty phase is an organic phase that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) and is non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

[0066] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0067] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0068] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa. i) Volatile hydrocarbon oil#

[0069] The volatile hydrocarbon oils i) which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes.

[0070] By “alkane” is meant any compound comprising a saturated, linear hydrocarbon chain, consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0071] Mention may in particular be made of C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®, the branched C8-Ci6 esters of isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used.

[0072] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can also be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0073] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0074] As examples of linear C6-Ci4 alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Cio), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn), n-tetradecane (CM), and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0076] According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® can be used.

[0077] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear C9-Ci2 alkanes with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

[0078] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) is used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application. WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and like that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF.

[0079] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is isododecane.

[0080] The volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils i) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at contents less than or equal to 25.0% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. ii) Non-volatile alkane oil

[0081] The non-volatile alkane oils ii) which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from linear or branched alkanes comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from - liquid linear or branched paraffins containing 18 to 32 carbon atoms, - squalane (C30) with the following structure [Chem 1] CH g CHj Qhj CHg O"A CH3 CH3 - isoeicosane (C2o); - their mixtures.

[0082] Isoeicosane is notably sold under the following trade names: Creasil IE CG® (CIT Sari); Creasil IE Sethic® (The Innovation Company); Fancol IE® (Elementis Specialties); OriStar IES® (Orient Stars LLC; Permethyl 102A® (Presperse Corp).

[0083] According to a particularly preferred form, the non-volatile alkane oil ii) is squalane sold in particular under the following trade names: ABS Amaranthus Squalane® (Active Concepts LLC): AEC Squalane® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.): Botanessential Olivane® (Botanigenics, Inc): Cosbiol® (Laserson): Creanatural Vegetable Squalane® (CIT Sari): Dermane® (Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc.): Fitoderm® (BASF Corporation): Keteol N® (Prod'Hyg Laboratories): Keteol V® (Prod'Hyg Laboratories): Nikkol Olive Squalane® (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.): Nikkol Squalane® (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.): Nikkol Sugar Squalane® (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); Olive Squalane® (Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Ltd.); OriStar Squalane® (Orient Stars LLC); Phytosqualan® (Sophim); Phytosqual Hydrogen® (Vevy Europe SpA): Planted Olive Squalane® (CRM International Pripure 3759®;( Salacos RS® (The Nisshin Oil Group, Ltd.); Sophiderm® (Sophim); Neossance Squalane® (Amyris).

[0084] The non-volatile alkane oil or oils ii) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at contents less than or equal to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 3 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. iii) Non-volatile ester oil

[0085] The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil of formula R1COOR2 in which R1COO represents a carboxylic acid residue, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms; said ester oil being chosen such that the composition has at 25°C: 1) a stickiness value less than or equal to 0.01 Ns, preferably less than or equal to 0.005 N.s; and

[0086] 2) a gloss greater than or equal to 50 gloss units at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 brightness units; and 3) a setting time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the keratin material or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds.

[0087] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile ester oil chosen from - esters of benzoic acid and a linear or branched C8-C22 fatty alcohol; - C16-C22 dialkyl carbonates; - unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and linear or branched C1-C10 alkanol - their mixtures.

[0088] By “alkanol” is meant any saturated alkane compound having a hydroxyl (OH) function in its structure.

[0089] By “unsaturated ester” is meant any ester comprising in the main chain at least one double bond -CH2=CH2-.

[0090] 1 / Esters of benzoic acid and a linear or branched C s -C 22 fatty alcohol

[0091] The ester oils of benzoic acid and a linear or branched C8-C22 fatty alcohol may in particular be chosen from a mixture of Lauryl Benzoate and Myristyl Benzoate (INCI name: Lauryl / Myristyl Benzoate, a mixture of C12-C15 alkyl benzoates (INCI name: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate), a mixture of C16-C17 alkyl benzoates (INCI name: C16-17 Alkyl Benzoate), Stearyl Benzoate, Isostearyl Benzoate, Hexyldecyl Benzoate, Butyloctyl Benzoate, Octyldodecyl Benzoate, Behenyl Benzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] A mixture of C16-C17 alkyl benzoates (INCI name: C16-17 Alkyl Benzoate) is notably sold under the trade name Corum 5014® by the company Corum Inc.

[0093] According to a particularly preferred form, the non-volatile ester oil iii) is a mixture of C12-C15 alkyl benzoates (INCI name: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) such as those sold under the following trade names: AEC C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate® (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.)

[0094] Botanester AB® (Botanigenics, Inc); Cetiol AB® (BASF Corporation); Crodamol AB® (Croda Europe, Ltd.); Crodamol AB® (Croda, Inc.); Dub B1215® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); Finsolv TN® (Innospec Performance Chemicals); Hest 25B® (Global Seven Inc.); Liponate NEB® (Vantage Personal Care);

[0095] OriStar AKB® (Orient Stars LLC);

[0096] Saboderm AB® (Sabo spa);

[0097] Tegosoft TN® (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH:

[0098] Tegosoft TN 2® (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH. II / C16-C22 dialkyl carbonates

[0099] The ester oils of the C16-C22 dialkyl carbonate type are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the formula R'COOR2 in which R1 and R2, independently, denote a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 16 atoms such that the total number of carbon atoms present in the radicals R1 and R2 is from 16 to 22.

[0100] Among the dialkyl carbonates in C16-C22 we can cite - di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate (Ci7) such as the product sold under the trade name Tegosoft DEC® by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH) - dicaprylyl carbonate (Ci7) such as the products sold under the trade names Cetiol CC® (BASF Corporation) and OriStar DCC® (Orient Stars LLC) - a mixture of C14-C15 dialkyl carbonates (INCI name: C14-C15 Dialkyl Carbonate such as the products sold under the trade names Lialcarb SR-1000 / R® by EniChem SpA and OriStar Cl4-15 DAC® by Orient Stars LLC; - dipropylheptyl carbonate (C2i) such as the product sold under the trade name Cetiol 4 Ail® by the company BASF.

[0101] According to a particularly preferred form, the dialkyl carbonate oil is dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0102] III / Unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and linear or branched C x -C ui alkanol

[0103] Among the linoleic acid esters in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of: - Methyl Linoleate such as products sold under the following trade names: AEC Methyl Linoleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.) Dub LIM® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); - Ethyl Linoleate such as products sold under the following trade names: AEC Ethyl Linoleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.); Dub Omega 6 EE® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils; Nikkol VF-LINO® (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.); Safester A-75® (Givaudan Active Beauty); Synovea EL (Sytheon, Ltd.); -Isopropyl Linoleate such as the product sold under the trade name AEC Isopropyl Linoleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.); and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Among the oleic acid esters in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of: - Butyl Oleate which is sold under the commercial name AEC Butyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.); - the Decyl Oleate tells you that the products are sold under the following commercial names: AEC Decyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.) Ceraphyl 140® (Ashland Inc.) ; Ceraphyl 140A® (Ashland Inc.) ; Cetiol V® (BASF Corporation) ; CremerCOOR DO® (IOI Oleo GmbH) ; Dermol DO® (Alzo International Inc.) Dermol V® (Fabriquimica SRL) ; Dub OD® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) ; Jeechem DO® (Jeen International Corporation) ; Pelemol DO® (Phoenix Chemical, Inc.) ; Radia 7336® (Oleon NV); Saboderm DO (Sabo spa); Tegosoft DO® (Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH) ; Unimul-CTV® (Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc.) ; Unitolate V® (Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc.); - Ethylhexyl Oleate such as products sold under the following trade names: AEC Ethylhexyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.); Saboderm EO® (Sabo spa); AEC Ethyl Oleate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.); -Ethyl Oleate such as products sold under the following trade names: Crodamol EO® (Croda Europe, Ltd.); Dub OE HP® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); - Isobutyl Oleate such as the commercial product Clearbright IB-81S® (NOF Corporation); - Isodecyl Oleate such as products sold under the following trade names: AEC Isodecyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.); Dermol IDO® (Alzo International Inc.); Pelemol IDO® (Phoenix Chemical, Inc.); Schercemol IDO Ester® (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.); - Isopropyl Oleate such as the commercial product AEC Isopropyl Linoleate (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.); - Methyl Oleate such as products sold under the following trade names: AEC Methyl Oleate® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics Ltd.); Dub OM HTO® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); and their mixtures.

[0105] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises Ethyl Linoleate.

[0106] The non-volatile ester oil or oils iii) are preferably present in the composition of the invention at contents of less than or equal to 25.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Rheological properties of the product

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 60°, more particularly between 500 and 2800 Pa, for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 50°.

[0108] Gels, like all polymerized systems, exhibit viscoelastic behavior.

[0109] This type of behavior can be characterized from fining or relaxation experiments, or by dynamic tests where a sinusoidal stress (or strain) is applied. In the present case, the viscoelastic properties (G* and delta) are measured with an imposed stress rheometer and the values ​​are taken on the viscoelastic plateau at 25 °C.

[0110] The measurements are carried out using an imposed stress rheometer (ARG2® from TA Instruments). The measurement geometry used is the sandblasted cone-plate of 35 mm diameter with an angle of 2°. The sample is stressed with sinusoidal stresses of increasing amplitude at a frequency of 1 hertz, over a stress range from 0.1 to 1000 Pa. The resistance opposed by the sample to the imposed deformation makes it possible to obtain the curves of the consistency G* and the solid / liquid character ô as a function of the stress r. The main data collected are the G* at the plateau (consistency) and the phase shift angle delta (solid / liquid character). Pigments

[0111] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally comprises at least one pigment.

[0112] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. They may be coated or uncoated with a surface treatment agent,

[0113] Preferably, the composition comprises at least 0.01% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0114] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0115] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0116] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0117] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.

[0118] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0119] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has

[0120] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide, coated or uncoated.

[0121] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0122] By "mother-of-pearl" is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0123] The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matter.

[0124] Examples of mother-of-pearls that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[0125] Among the mother-of-pearls available on the market, we can cite the TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® mother-of-pearls (mica-based) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the TIMIRON® mother-of-pearls marketed by the company MERCK, the PRESTIGE® mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the company ECKART and the SUNSHINE® synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearls marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

[0126] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0127] As an illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna);brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by; MERCK company under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, in particular, marketed by MERCK company under the name Xirona Silver® and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK company under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

[0128] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

[0129] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic reflection particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

[0130] The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

[0131] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

[0132] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, mono-material or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one layer with a metallic sheen comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0133] - mixtures of said particles.

[0134] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0135] By “metal derivatives” is meant compounds derived from metals, in particular, oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

[0136] As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0137] Mention may also be made of metallic copper powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® from the company ECKART, particles of aluminum coated with silica marketed under the name VISION AIRE BRIGHT SILVER® from ECKART and metal alloy particles, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica, marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® from Eckart.

[0138] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0139] The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected, for example, from interference multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

[0140] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AFSiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).For example, these pigments may be the silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color goes from gold-green to gray-red for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

[0141] Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure include those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0142] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0143] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

[0144] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered in significant quantity together with a significant quantity of water. What is more, insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a preponderant affinity for the oily phase which can then transport them.

[0145] Of course, the compositions according to the invention can at the same time contain uncoated pigments.

[0146] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0147] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0148] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.

[0149] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0150] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

[0151] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0152] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface agent, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

[0153] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.

[0154] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0155] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0158] As metallic soaps, mention may in particular be made of metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0159] The metal of the metallic soap can in particular be zinc or magnesium.

[0160] As metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0161] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0162] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0163] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0164] The salts of these compounds can be the salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.

[0165] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from lecithin and its derivatives.

[0167] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0168] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0169] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0170] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be isostearyl sebacate.

[0171] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

[0172] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters;

[0173] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from phospholipids.

[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0175] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments are coated with a perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilane such as Perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane and Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane. As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with Perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane or Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane, for example marketed under the references FHS-5 Sunpuro® by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo).

[0176] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may contain at least one organic pigment.

[0177] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0178] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0179] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0180] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0181] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0182] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0183] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1). Additives

[0184] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as solar UV filters; fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol; fillers; fat-soluble coloring materials; fatty phase thickening or gelling agents; antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic compositions

[0185] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0186] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin.

[0187] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged. Applications

[0188] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids.

[0189] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a base composition for makeup.

[0190] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and in particular for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0191] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0192] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0193] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

[0194] Examples 1 to 3 (invention) and examples 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b, 3a, 3b (outside the invention): eyeshadows

[0195] Compositions 1 to 3 according to the invention as well as compositions outside the invention 1a, 1b; 2a, 2b, 3a and 3b were prepared according to the preparation protocols described below. [Tables 1] Ingredients Example 1 % by weight Example 1a % by weight Example 1b % by weight ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM®- ASHLAN D) 24.79 24.79 24.79 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE (BENZOATE DE C12 / C15® (DUB B1215 ®) -STEARINERIE DUBOIS= 8.41 8.41 NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DICAPRATE (ESTEMOL N-01, NISSHIN OILLIO) 8.41 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE (LAMEFORM TGI® - BASF) 33.57 33.57 33.57 SQUALANE (NEOSSANCE SQUALANE®-AMYRIS) 9.64 0 9.64 ALCOHOL 15 15 15 ISODODECANE QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100

[0196] [Tables2] Ingredients Example 2 wt % Example 2a wt % Example 2b wt % ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM®- ASHLA ND) 20 20 20 DICAPRYLYLYL CARBONATE (CETIOLBA CCL10)®-1 DICAPRATE (ESTEMOL N-01, NISSHIN OILLIO) 10 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE (LAMEFORM TGI® - BASF) 30 30 30 SQUALANE (NEOSSANCE SQUALANE®-15 AMYLCOHRIS) 1 10 ISODODECANE QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100

[0197] [Tables3] Ingredients Example 3 wt % Example 3 to wt % Example 3b wt % ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM®- ASHLAND ) 24.79 24.79 24.79 ETHYL LINOLEATE (VITAMINE F / EE® - OLEON) 8.41 8.41 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE (SCHERCEMO L DISM ESTER - LUBRIZOL) 8.41 PENTAERYTHRITHRITYL TETRA-DLT-BUT-N HL HYDROCINHY ® BASF) 0,25 0,25 0.25 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE (LAMEFORM TGI® - BASF) 33.57 33.57 33.57 SQUALANE (NEOSSANCE SQUALANE® A 9.AMYRIS) 15 15 ISODODECANE QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 Protocol for the preparation of examples 1 to 3 (invention) and of countertype examples outside the invention 1a, 1b. 2a. 2b. 3a. 3b

[0198] In a beaker, the non-volatile ester oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisosterate, was introduced, then the ethyl cellulose was added. It was then homogenized under deflocculating stirring, so as to deagglomerate and thoroughly wet the polymer. At this stage, a thick, creamy-white suspension was obtained. The alcohol was added, then homogenized under deflocculating stirring until a more or less transparent, colorless to pale yellow gel was formed. The isododecane and, if applicable, the squalane were slowly added in a steady stream so as to allow their gradual integration into the gel. Once all of these solvents had been introduced, stirring continued until a homogeneous gel was obtained.

[0199] The following characteristics of each composition were evaluated at 25°C for each of examples 1 to 3 (invention) and counter-type examples outside the invention 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b, 3a, 3b according to the measurement protocols as detailed previously:

[0200] - the stickiness value

[0201] - shine at 60°, 15 min, 2 hours and 7 hours after application

[0202] - freezing time

[0203] The results are shown in the table below.

[0204] [Tables4] Measured characteristics Stickiness value (Newtons.seconds) Gloss 60° (gloss units) Setting time (seconds) at 15 minutes at 2 hours at 7 hours Example 1 (invention) with Cl2-15 Alkylbenzo ate and squalane 0.3+ / -0.1 69+ / 4 68 + / -4 67 + / -4 15 Example 1a (not invent ion) with Cl2-15 Alkylbenzo ate without squalane 0.7 + / -0.1 82 + / -02 82 + / -2 80 + / -2 30 Example 1b (not invent ion) with squalane and Neopent ylglycol Dicaprate 0.3+ / -0.1 45 + / -5 47 + / -6 43 + / -4 30 Example 2 (invention) with Dicaprylyl carbonate and squalane 0.4 + / -0.1 72 + / -4 72 + / -2 70 + / -4 20 Example 2a (not inventi on) with Dicaprylyl Carb onate without squalane 0.7 + / -0.1 81 + / -2 80 + / -2 79 + / -1 30 Example 2b (not inventi on) with Neopentylglycol Di caprate and squalane Not measurable: the thread tears 65 + / -3 63 + / -6 59 + / -6 80 Example 3 (invention) with Ethyl linoleate and squa lane 0.4 + / -0.1 63 + / -4 64 + / - 5 64 + / -5 30 Example 3a (not inventi on) with Ethyl linoleate without squalane 0.8 + / -0.1 77 + / -2 78 + / -2 76 + / -1 30 Example 3b (not inventi on) with Diisostearyl Ma late and with squalane and 0.3 + / -0.1 35+ / -3 34 + / -1 31 + / -3 120 .

[0205] The results showed that Examples 1 to 3 of the invention comprising Ethyl cellulose, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, ethanol, isododecane, squalane and respectively as non-volatile ester oil the C12-15 Alkylbenzoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate or Ethyl linoleate produce after application a film with an intense shine for 7 hours, satisfactory adhesion, low tack and a short film surface setting time of less than or equal to 30 seconds.

[0206] The results showed that the counter-type examples outside the invention 1a, 2a and 3a not containing squalane produce a more sticky film after application. They thus confirm the technical contribution of squalane to the reduction of the stickiness of the film.

[0207] The results also showed that the non-inventive counter-type examples 1b and 2b in which the non-volatile ester oil used was NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DICAPRATE, produced after application a film with a longer surface setting time. Example 1b produced a significantly less glossy film. Example 2b did not demould because it tore due to a lack of cohesion, which made the measurement of tack impossible.

[0208] The results also showed that the counter-type example 3b outside the invention in which the non-volatile ester oil used was Diisostearyl Malate produced a low gloss film with a very long surface setting time: 2 minutes.

Claims

Claims

1. Anhydrous composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the areas of the face, in particular the eyelids, comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) ethylcellulose; and b) at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and c) at least one monoester or diester of a C12-C18 carboxylic acid, linear or branched, and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units; and d) a liquid fatty phase comprising i) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and ii) at least one non-volatile oil of the alkane type;and iii) at least one non-volatile ester oil of the ester type of formula R1COOR2 in which R1COO represents a carboxylic acid residue, acyclic or cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms; said non-volatile ester oil being chosen such that the composition has at 25°C: 1) a tack value of less than or equal to 0.01 Ns, preferably less than or equal to 0.005 N. s; and 2) a gloss greater than or equal to 50 gloss units at 60°, preferably ranging from 60 to 85 gloss units; and 3) a setting time of the surface of the film formed by the composition on the keratin material or a synthetic substrate, preferably less than 1 minute, more preferably less than or equal to 30 seconds;said composition being in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 100 and 3000 Pa for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 60°;

2. Composition according to claim 1, where the ethylcellulose content varies from 10 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, and more particularly from 18 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, where the C2-C6 mono-alcohol is chosen from isopropanol, ethanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 10 to 25% by weight, preferably from 12 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one diester of linear or branched C12-C18 carboxylic acid and polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units, preferably 2 or 3 glycerol units, in particular those chosen from Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Dilaurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of monoester or diester of C12-C18 carboxylic acid and of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 6 glycerol units varies from 5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes, and more particularly is isododecane.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the volatile hydrocarbon oil i) is chosen from linear C6-C14 alkanes, in particular from n-hexane, n-heptane, n-octane, n-nonane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils ii) are present at contents of less than or equal to 25.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile alkane oil ii) is chosen from linear or branched alkanes comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular chosen from - liquid linear or branched paraffins comprising from 18 to 32 carbon atoms, - squalane; - isoeicosane; - mixtures thereof; and more particularly is squalane.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile alkane oil or oils ii) are present at contents ranging from less than or equal to 15.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 3 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile ester oil chosen from - esters of benzoic acid and a linear or branched C8-C22 fatty alcohol; - C16-C22 dialkyl carbonates; - unsaturated esters of linoleic acid or oleic acid and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkanol - mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to claim 12, or the non-volatile oil ester of benzoic acid and a linear or branched C8-C22 fatty alcohol is chosen from a mixture of Lauryl Benzoate and Myristyl Benzoate, a mixture of C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, a mixture of C16-C17 alkyl benzoates, Stearyl Benzoate, Isostearyl Benzoate, Hexyldecyl Benzoate, Butyloctyl Benzoate, Octyldodecyl Benzoate, Behenyl Benzoate, and mixtures thereof; and more particularly is a mixture of C12-C15 alkyl benzoates with INCI name: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate.

14. A composition according to claim 12, wherein the non-volatile C16-C22 dialkyl carbonate ester oil is selected from di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, a mixture of C14-C15 dialkyl carbonates, dipropylheptyl carbonate, and more particularly is dicaprylyl carbonate.

15. A composition according to claim 12, wherein the non-volatile unsaturated ester oil of linoleic acid is selected from Methyl Linoleate, Ethyl Linoleate, Isopropyl Linoleate; and mixtures thereof, and more particularly is Ethyl Linoleate.

16. A composition according to claim 12, wherein the oleic acid ester oil is selected from Butyl Oleate, Decyl Oleate, Ethylhexyl Oleate, Ethyl Oleate, Isobutyl Oleate, Isodecyl Oleate, Isopropyl Oleate, Methyl Oleate; and mixtures thereof.

17. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the non-volatile ester oil or oils iii) are present at levels of less than or equal to 25.0% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a gel whose modulus G* (viscoelastic modulus) is between 500 and 2800Pa, for a phase shift angle of between 30 and 50°.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one pigment, white or colored, mineral or organic, coated or uncoated.

20. Composition according to claim 18, comprising at least 0.01% by weight of pigment(s), more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight of pigment(s), in particular from 0.2 to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight of pigment(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.

21. Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular areas of the face, in particular the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.