A process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two distinct specific fatty acids and at least one modified polysaccharide
A composition of distinct fatty acids and modified polysaccharides addresses the issues of greasiness and humidity-related hair problems, enhancing softness, smoothness, and reducing frizz and volume without using silicones, providing a sustainable hair care solution.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023006962
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-06-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products often leave a greasy and heavy feel, fail to control hair volume, and do not effectively discipline hair in humid environments, while also relying on petrochemical compounds that are not environmentally friendly.
A composition comprising at least two distinct fatty acids and a modified polysaccharide is applied to keratin fibers, providing softness, smoothness, and shine, while limiting frizz and hair volume in humid conditions without using silicone materials.
The composition improves hair quality by enhancing softness, detangling, and smoothing, and reduces frizz and hair volume in humid environments, offering a sustainable alternative to traditional hair care products.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Process for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two distinct particular fatty acids and at least one modified polysaccharide Technical field of the invention
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for treating keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least two distinct particular fatty acids and at least one modified polysaccharide. Background to the invention
[0002] External atmospheric agents such as pollution and bad weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, straightening, repeated washing, damage and weaken the hair. The hair is thus damaged and can in the long term become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split and / or limp or even sensitive to humidity, making the hair unruly, often with frizz, and / or difficult to style in humid environments, particularly in very humid environments.
[0003] Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is usual to use hair care products which use compositions intended to condition the hair in a suitable manner by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular softness to the touch (the hair is no longer rough), good detangling properties making it easy to comb, and good discipline of the hair which thus has good shape.
[0004] These hair care products, often based on silicone raw materials, can however give a greasy and heavy appearance to the touch which is not always pleasant for the user. Furthermore, these hair care products have little or no effect on controlling the volume of keratin fibers and / or maintaining the hairstyle and / or disciplining the hair in a humid or even very humid environment.
[0005] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that will enable us to meet these environmental challenges, in particular by reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0006] Thus, there is a real need to develop a hair treatment process to overcome these drawbacks and which is particularly capable of preserving or even improving the quality of the fiber, in particular softness, detangling, smoothing, discipline and / or shine, and of lastingly limiting the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of the hair in a humid environment in order to facilitate styling of the hair in a humid environment. Such a process should ideally not use silicone raw materials.
[0007] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or part of these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the present invention. Summary of the invention
[0008] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising: • at least two distinct compounds D chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) below, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Formula (I) in which: ■ R1 represents: - a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa-; or - a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb -(CO)-; ■ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by one or more identical or different groups chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); ■ Rb represents a (C2-Ci0)alkyl group; and • one or more compounds E chosen from modified polysaccharides.
[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (C) as defined above.
[0010] According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above for the care of keratin fibers, preferably for providing the keratin fibers with softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch and / or shine, more preferably for providing softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch.
[0011] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a com position (C) as defined previously to protect the keratin fibers from humidity, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of the hair in a humid environment. Detailed description of the invention
[0012] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0013] ■ by "keratin fibers" we mean fibers of human or animal origin such as than hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair.
[0014] ■ by "alkyl group" we mean a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.
[0015] ■ by "(Cx-Cy) alkyl group" is meant an alkyl group comprising from x to y atoms of carbon.
[0016] ■ by "(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl group" we mean a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group one of which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is optionally replaced by a hydroxy group (-OH). A "(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl group" thus denotes a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group or a hydroxy(Cx-Cy)alkyl group, i.e. a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group in which at least one of the hydrogen atoms is replaced by a hydroxy group (-OH).
[0017] ■ by di(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt, we mean an ammonium salt bearing two (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.
[0018] ■ by tri(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt, we mean an ammonium salt bearing three (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.
[0019] ■ by tetra(hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkylammonium salt, we mean an ammonium salt bearing four (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups, said (hydroxy)(Cx-Cy)alkyl groups being identical or different.
[0020] ■ by "(hetero)cyclic group" we mean a cyclic or heterocyclic group.
[0021] ■ by "cyclic group" we mean a carbocycle, mono or polycyclic, condensed or not, saturated or unsaturated, in particular aromatic, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, said cyclic group possibly being substituted by one or more identical or different groups, in particular chosen from: (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (Ci -C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).
[0022] ■ by "heterocyclic group" we mean a mono or polycyclic group, condensed or not, saturated or unsaturated, in particular aromatic, comprising from 5 to 22 links and containing from 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from the nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atom, said heterocyclic group possibly being substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, in particular chosen from: (Ci-C6)alkyl, (Ci-C6)alkoxy, (Ci -C6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or carboxyl (-COOH).
[0023] ■ by "unsaturated hydrocarbon group" is meant a hydrocarbon group comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0024] ■ by "polysaccharide" we mean a polysaccharide sugar which is a polymer consisting of several oses linked together by O-osidic bonds, said polymers being made up of monosaccharide units (also called mono-osidic), said mono-saccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the mono-osidic units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in anomer α (alpha) or [3 (beta), each osidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and its solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides;these are more particularly polymers formed from a certain number of oses (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y )]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, with x being an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x being greater than or equal to 6, in particular x ranging from 5 to 7, preferably x = 6, and y being an integer which represents x - 1, and w being an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly ranging from 3 to 3000, more particularly ranging from 5 to 2500, preferably ranging from 10 to 2300, particularly ranging from 15 to 1000, more particularly ranging from 20 to 500, preferably ranging from 25 to 200; ;
[0025] ■ by "amino polysaccharide" we mean a polysaccharide substituted by one or several amino group(s) NRaRb ie at least one of the hydroxy groups of at least one saccharide unit of the polysaccharide is replaced by an NRaRb group, with Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing i) a hydrogen atom, ii) a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, iii) an aryl group such as phenyl, iv) an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl, v) -C(Y)-(Y')f-R'iwith Y and Y', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or N(R'2) atom, preferably oxygen, f = 0 or 1, of preferably 0; and R' i and R'2 representing i) to iv) of Ra and Rb defined above, and in particular R\ denoting a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl. Preferably Ra and / or Rb represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl and more preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents a (Ci-C^alkylcarbonyl group such as acetyl.
[0026] ■ by "modified polysaccharide" we mean a polysaccharide, amino or not, modified by chemical means, in particular on at least one of the hydroxyl and / or amine groups and / or by physical means. The polysaccharide may be modified by chemical means, for example, by substitution and / or addition such as etherification, esterification or amidation, by oxidation, by hydrolysis, by dehydration, and / or by reduction. The polysaccharide may be modified by physical means, for example, under the action of heat.
[0027] ■ by "isomer" we mean an optical, geometric or tautomeric isomer.
[0028] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably. Process for treating keratin fibers
[0029] According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for treating keratin fibers as defined above.
[0030] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that the process according to the present invention makes it possible to preserve or even improve the quality of the fiber, in particular softness, detangling, smoothing and / or discipline and / or shine, and to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of the hair in a humid environment, thus making it easier to style the hair in a humid environment. Distinct compounds D
[0031] Composition (C) comprises at least two distinct compounds D chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.
[0032] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the monovalent salts of the compounds of formula (I).
[0033] More preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, di(Ci-Cio)alkylammonium salts, tri(Ci-Cio)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0034] According to a preferred embodiment, R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa-, preferably a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0035] According to one embodiment, composition (C) does not comprise salts of compounds of formula (I) as defined previously.
[0036] According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the distinct compounds D, preferably all of the distinct compounds D are in non-salified form.
[0037] According to a preferred embodiment, at least two of the distinct compounds D are in non-salified form and the molar ratio of total quantity of one of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form / total quantity of another of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form in the composition (C) ranges from 0.25 to 4. In cases where the composition (C) comprises more than two distinct compounds D in non-salified form, it is sufficient for the molar ratio between two of these distinct compounds D to vary from 0.25 to 4, in order for this criterion to be met.
[0038] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition (C) does not comprise more than two distinct compounds D, the two distinct compounds D being in non-salified form and the molar ratio of total quantity of one of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form / total quantity of the other distinct compound D in non-salified form in the composition (C) ranging from 0.25 to 4.
[0039] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the distinct compounds D is in non-salified form and at least one of the distinct compounds D is in salified form and the molar ratio of total quantity of one of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form / total quantity of one of the distinct compounds D in salified form in the composition (C) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 100. In cases where the composition (C) comprises more than two distinct compounds D in non-salified form and / or more than two distinct compounds D in salified form, it is sufficient that the molar ratio of total quantity of one of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form / total quantity of one of the distinct compounds D in salified form is greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 100 in order for this criterion to be met.
[0040] According to a more particular embodiment, the composition (C) does not comprise more than two distinct compounds D, one of the distinct compounds D being in non-salified form and the other in salified form and the molar ratio total quantity of the distinct compound D in non-salified form / total quantity of the distinct compound D in salified form in the composition (C) being greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 1 to 100.
[0041] Composition (C) preferably comprises no more than five distinct compounds D, more preferably no more than four distinct compounds D, even more preferably no more than three distinct compounds D, and better still no more than two distinct compounds D, chosen independently from the compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.
[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, the distinct compounds D are chosen from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Deicic acid Compound 1 Palmitic acid Compound 2 Oi Myristic acid Compound 3 OH ■O Boric Acids Compound 4 OH Isostearic acid Compound 5 -Q RC—RCHjCOOH with RCO- representing the acyfe groups derived from coconut oil Cccoyl Sarcasm HO. . ..0 H Laiæroyi Lysine Compound 7 Behenâqoe acid Compound 8 C'A <X“ ■•-•■• x XX .<■■'■■""""-x .'"'v XX .Xx X ■-' •" x ''ï' vx 'y / ' b 6 Aride o-octanoyl5-sa^cy^que Composé 9 X'X ,XX.; X'Xs X'X x"’X. ,XXx .• - ^vX O H Aride hydroxystéanque Composé 10 «0, ...-O q X ..■•x .X', XX XV XV X, X ...-x ..-0 ' T T ÔH Acide 2-dtwiécasami^perrtarie^ Composé 11 O-H K C- æ " ^93 Actée 24tepSadéœnamK|0pe^nedim^^ Composé 12 Giyçeryî Stearate Citrate Compound 13 OH Capryloyl Glycine Compound 14 1-Vammomdécarï^ue acid Compound 15 O Capric Adder Compound 16 O Adde capjyftque Compound 17 Adde 1 Ô-hy draxy decanoïcüe OH Adde 104*ÿdroxy-2rdécénoœqup Compound 19 Adde 13-hydmxy stearic acid Compound 20 Adde 6-atrtnoœproic Compound 21 Laufëih-11 carboxylic acid Compound 22 O Acetamidocaproic acid Compound 23 Adde deurfêqug Compound 24 Arachidic Acid Compound 25 0 Arachidonic acid Compound 26 Adde 24ætfyfodandic Compound 27 Cerous acid Compound 28 4-Ethy ioda-2t4-dæïKH acid that Compound 29 Adde 4-éfr XH Q yioctaWjque >osé 30 Acids s QH '\X'' déarique sosé 31 OH .-•••x ..'X 0: X......." XX" Adde 1 ..X** 'x X ' xX X mléique Comj >osé 32. ' Acid in <v nnamique comf josé 33 ......... ,ww », acide < x 7 éranique 34 Heptanoic acid OH Y ise Compound 35 1 , Inolenic acid T ' £3 je Compound 36 Adde pergom O •X jue Compound 37 OH Adde phenylaceî ic Compound 3£ OH Rindétq acid KZ ( Xo d X Compound 39 chosen from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, preferably from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures
[0045] According to a preferred variant, the distinct compounds D are chosen from compounds 1 to 39, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, preferably from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, more preferably from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, even more preferably from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.
[0046] When one or more of the distinct compounds D are in salified form, these are preferably chosen from the following compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: with X+ representing a preferably monovalent cation, more preferably a monovalent cation derived from a salt chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(hydroxy)(CrCio )alkylammonium salts, di(hydroxy)(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, tri(hydroxy)(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably a monovalent cation derived from a salt chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(hydroxy)(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0047] When one or more of the distinct compounds D are in salified form, these are more preferably chosen from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, with X+ representing a monovalent cation derived from a salt chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, ammonium salts, tetra(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, di(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, tri(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, and their mixtures, preferably chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, tetra(Ci-Ci0)alkylammonium salts, and their mixtures.
[0048] When one or more of the distinct compounds D are in salified form, these are even more preferably chosen from compounds 1' to 11', their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, with X+ representing a Na+, K+, NH4+ or tetra(Ci-Cio)alkylammonium ion.
[0049] When one or more of the distinct compounds D are in salified form, these are most preferably chosen from the following compounds 1” to 13”, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures:
[0050] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, when one or more of the distinct compounds D are in salified form, these are chosen from compounds 5”, 6”, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.
[0051] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of distinct compounds D of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0052] According to a preferred embodiment, the distinct compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of lauric acid / total quantity of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of sodium laurate in composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1.
[0053] According to a more preferred embodiment, the distinct compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of lauric acid / total quantity of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1.
[0054] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the distinct compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) being preference equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1.
[0055] When composition (C) comprises one of the combinations of two compounds described above, the total content of combination present in composition (C) is preferably at least 0.01% by weight, more preferably at least 0.05% by weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, most preferably from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C). Compounds E
[0056] Composition (C) further comprises one or more compounds E chosen from modified polysaccharides.
[0057] The modified polysaccharides may be cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric, preferably non-ionic or anionic, more preferably non-ionic.
[0058] Preferably, the compound(s) E are derived from polysaccharides chosen from: - gum arabic (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum ghatti (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); - karaya gum (polymer from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); - agar (polymer from galactose and anhydrogalactose); - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum; - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); - cellulose (polymer of glucose); - starch (polymer of glucose); - inulin; - pectin; - pullulan; - chitin; - chitosan; - hyaluronic acid; and - their mixtures.
[0059] More preferably, the compound(s) E are derived from polysaccharides chosen from starch, pullulan, and their mixtures.
[0060] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from modified non-amino polysaccharides.
[0061] The starch molecules that can be used to manufacture modified starches according to the present invention may have cereals or tubers as botanical origin. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea starches, and mixtures thereof, preferably from potato starches. Polysaccharide ethers
[0062] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide ethers.
[0063] By "polysaccharide ether" is meant an alkyl polysaccharide whose alkyl group comprises from 1 to 30, preferably from 2 to 10, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0064] Preferably, the alkyl polysaccharides according to the invention are derivatives of cellulose, pullulan or guar or their mixtures.
[0065] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from alkylcelluloses whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 15 carbon atoms.
[0066] Alkylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose comprising a chain consisting of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: Cell-OM + R-Hal Cell-OR + MHal with Hal representing a halogen such as Cl, M representing a cationic counterion such as alkali metal Na or K, or alkaline earth metal, preferably an alkali metal such as Na, Cell representing a polysaccharide radical such as cellulose, R representing a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 10 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal the generated salt such as sodium chloride.
[0067] Advantageously, the compound(s) E are chosen from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose and their mixtures, preferably ethylcellulose.
[0068] According to another particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from alkylguars, i.e. guar gums modified by substitution of hydroxy hydrogen with a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 3 carbon atoms such as 2 carbon atoms.
[0069] Advantageously, compound E is ethyl guar. Ethyl guar is known in particular under the INCI name C1-C5 alkyl galactomannan. Polysaccharide esters
[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide esters.
[0071] By "polysaccharide ester" is meant an ester obtained by reaction between at least one hydroxyl group of a polysaccharide such as dextrin or pullulan with at least one carboxylic acid or one of its activated forms such as an acyl chloride. Preferably, the carboxylic acid is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and its activated forms are for example the corresponding acid chloride.
[0072] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from cellulose esters or its derivatives such as hydroxy(Cl-C5)alkylcelluloses, starch, inulin, pectin, pullulan or hyaluronic acid comprising at least one C1-C30 hydrocarbon chain such as saturated or unsaturated alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof.
[0073] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide mono- or polyalkylesters.
[0074] Among the mono- or polyalkylesters of polysaccharide suitable for implementing the invention, mention may be made of mono- or polyalkylesters of dextrin or inulin.
[0075] It may in particular be a mono- or poly-ester of dextrin (dextrin being derived from starch) and at least one fatty acid (such as RC(O)-OH) and in particular corresponding to the following formula (III): Formula (III) in which: - n is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50, - Rb R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (RC(O)-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, in particular from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of said radicals Rb R2 or R3 is other than hydrogen.
[0076] In particular, Rb R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (RC(O)-) in which R is a hydrocarbon group as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals Rh R2 or R3 are other than hydrogen.
[0077] The set of radicals Rb R2 and R3 can represent an identical or different acyl group (RC(O)-), and the acyl groups are in particular identical.
[0078] When the radicals Rh R2 and / or R3, which are identical or different, represent an acyl group (RC(O)-), derived from fatty carboxylic acid RC(O)OH, the fatty carboxylic acid RC(O)OH is preferably chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic acids, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from esters of dextrin and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24 fatty acids.
[0080] Preferably, the compound(s) E are chosen from esters of dextrin and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C14-C24 fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or mixtures thereof.
[0081] According to one embodiment, the dextrin esters are chosen from dextrin palmitates such as RHEOPEARL KL2 and RHEOPEARL TL2^ marketed by CHIBA FLOUR, dextrin myristates such as that marketed under the reference Rheopearl MKL2 by CHIBA FLOUR, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL TT2, dextrin palmitate / hexyl-decanoate marketed under the reference RHEOPEARL WX or mixtures thereof.
[0082] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from dextrin palmitates.
[0083] According to one embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from inulin esters, more particularly from esters of inulin and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from esters of inulin and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24 fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, preferably stearic acid.
[0084] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is chosen from stearoyl inulin such as the references REOPEARL ISK2 and RHEOPEARL ISL2 marketed by CHIBA FLOUR or their mixtures.
[0085] According to one embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from cellulose esters, more particularly from esters of cellulose and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C24, preferably C2-C10, more preferably C2-C6, even more preferably C2-C4 acids such as acetic acid, butyric acid or their mixture.
[0086] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is a cellulose acetate butyrate such as the reference EASTMAN CELLULOSE ACETATE BUTYRATE marketed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.
[0087] According to one embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from pullulan esters, more particularly from pullulan esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C30, preferably C2-C20, more preferably C12-C20, even more preferably C12-C18 acids such as Cl4.
[0088] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from myristoyl pullulans.
[0089] According to another embodiment, the compound(s) E are cationic.
[0090] When the compound(s) E are cationic, they are preferably derived from polymers chosen from guar gum, locust bean gum, starch, cellulose, and mixtures thereof.
[0091] The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and comprise a C6-C30 aliphatic chain.
[0092] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from: Quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
[0093] The alkyl groups carried by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C8-C30 fatty chains include QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) products sold by Dow Corning, CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (C18 alkyl) products sold by CRODA and SOFTCAT SL 100 product sold by Dow Corning.
[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from guar gums modified by C1-C20 (poly)hydroxyalkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl. Mention may in particular be made, by way of example, of the hydroxymethyltrimmonium, hydroxyethyltrimmonium, hydroxypropyltrimmonium and hydroxybutyltrimmonium halide groups, preferably hydroxypropyltrimonium halide, preferably chloride.
[0095] Such modified cationic guar gums are for example sold by the company Solvay under the trade names Cationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride F Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Cl62 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.
[0096] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names: - C1-C5 Alkyl Galactomannan; - Hydroxypropyl Cellulose; - Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose; - Dextrin Palmitate; - Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; - Myristoyl Pullulan; - Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch PG-Trimonium Chloride; - Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose; - Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose; - Ethylcellulose; - Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose; - Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether; - Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose; - Methylcellulose; - Hydroxypropyl Starch; - Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan; - Hydroxypropyl Guar; - Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar; - Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum; - Stearoyl Inulin; - Inulin Lauryl Carbamate; - Palmitoyl Inulin; and - their mixtures.
[0097] According to a more preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from the compounds having the following INCI names: - Dextrin Palmitate; - Myristoyl Pullulan; and - their mixtures.
[0098] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide ethers as defined above, polysaccharide esters as defined above, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polysaccharide esters as defined above, more preferably from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferably from dextrin palmitates, myristoyl pullulans, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, composition (C) comprises: ■ a combination chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1; and ■ one or more compounds E chosen from polysaccharide ethers such as defined above, the polysaccharide esters as defined above, and their mixtures, preferably among the polysaccharide esters as defined above, more preferably among the pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferably among the dextrin palmitates, the myristoyl pullulans, and their mixtures.
[0100] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0101] Preferably, the composition (C) comprises a total content of distinct compounds D and compounds E of at least 0.02% by weight, preferably at least 0.2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.2% to 100% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1.1% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
[0102] Preferably, the mass ratio of total quantity of distinct compounds D / total quantity of compounds E in composition (C) is from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200. Other characteristics of the composition (C)
[0103] Composition (C) is a cosmetic composition, i.e. which comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with human keratin fibers.
[0104] Composition (C) may comprise water, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is anhydrous.
[0106] Where appropriate, such small quantities of water may in particular be provided by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual quantities thereof.
[0107] The pH of composition (C) is preferably from 2 to 11, more preferably from 3 to 9. The pH can be adjusted using an organic or mineral acid or an organic or mineral base usually used in cosmetics.
[0108] Composition (C) may comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
[0109] When present in composition (C), this or these organic solvents may be present in composition (C) in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 98% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C).
[0110] Composition (C) is preferably liquid.
[0111] By "liquid composition" in the sense of the present invention is meant on a macroscopic scale, a composition which does not have its own shape and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid which adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed at room temperature (25°C). Transferred into another container, a liquid still retains its volume. A liquid therefore has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal in equilibrium.
[0112] Composition (C) may be in any of the galenic forms conventionally used for hair application. In a non-limiting manner, composition (C) may be in the form of a lotion, a serum, a cream, a mousse, a gel, a spray or a lacquer.
[0113] Composition (C) can be used in rinse-off or non-rinse-off application.
[0114] Composition (C) may be in the form of a mask, a composition conditioning or pre-shampoo. Composition (C) can also be in the form of a composition to be added or mixed before application to a mask or conditioning composition.
[0115] Composition (C) may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol container, in order to ensure application of composition (C) in spray form (lacquer) or in foam form. In these cases, composition (C) preferably comprises at least one propellant.
[0116] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of coloring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferably less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), even more preferably, the composition (C) is free of coloring agents.
[0117] By "coloring agent" is meant an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
[0118] By "oxidation dye" is meant an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species.
[0119] By "direct dye" is meant a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), different from oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds which will diffuse superficially on the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.
[0120] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still, the composition (C) is free of silicones.
[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.
[0122] By "cationic polymer" is meant any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.
[0123] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic surfactants of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.
[0124] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.
[0125] As an example of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds, mention may be made of polyethylene glycols (PEG).
[0126] Composition (C) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.
[0127] The bath ratio of the composition (C) applied to the keratin fibers can range from 0.02 to 10. By bath ratio is meant the ratio between the total weight of the composition (C) applied and the total weight of keratin fibers to be treated.
[0128] The method may comprise at least one additional step following step i) chosen from the following steps ii) to iv): ii) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step optionally being carried out under an airtight film such as papillote or plastic film; iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.
[0129] Preferably, the method comprises the additional steps ii) and iv) as described above and carried out in that order.
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the method comprises all of the additional steps ii), iii) and iv) as described previously and carried out in this order.
[0131] The step of applying the composition (C) may have a duration ranging from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.
[0132] The temperature of the heating device may range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferably from 50°C to 80°C. For example, a hair dryer, a heating helmet, an iron or a heating brush may be used as the heating device.
[0133] The drying step iv) may also be a combination of drying in air or with a heating device at a temperature ranging from 50°C to 80°C such as a hair dryer or a heating hood, optionally followed by a step of passing through an iron, preferably a straightening iron.
[0134] Steps i) and optionally steps ii) to iv) may be repeated as many times as necessary and each cycle of steps may be spaced from the next by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Different hair treatments of the invention may be carried out between different application cycles, before or after. Composition (C)
[0135] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a composition (C) as defined above. Uses
[0136] According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (C) as defined above for the care of keratin fibers, preferably for providing the keratin fibers with softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch and / or shine, more preferably for providing softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch.
[0137] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition (C) as defined above for protecting keratin fibers from humidity, preferably for limiting the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in a humid environment. Examples
[0138] The following examples provide a better understanding of the invention without, however, being limiting. In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, all quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] The following compositions C1 to C9 were prepared according to the preparation protocol described below:
[0140] [Tables 1] Ingredients Cl C2 C3 C4 C5 Myristoyl Pullulan (Sold by Katakura Chikkarin) 5 10 5 10 5 Dextrin Palmitate (RHEOPEARL KL2 sold by Chiba Flour Milling) - - - - - Lauric acid / caprylic acid mixture (molar ratio 1 / 3) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 - - - Caprylic acid / capric acid mixture (molar ratio 1 / 1) - - Qsp 100 Qsp 100 - Lauric acid / capric acid mixture (molar ratio 1 / 2) - - - - Qsp 100
[0141] [Tables2] Ingredients C6 C7 C8 C9 Myristoyl Pullulan (Sold by Katakura Chikkarin) 10 - - - Dextrin Palmitate (RHEOPEARL KL2 sold by Chiba Flour Milling) - 5 10 20 Lauric acid / caprylic acid mixture (molar ratio 1 / 3) - Qsp 100 Qsp 100 - Caprylic acid / capric acid mixture (molar ratio 1 / 1) - - - Qsp 100 Lauric acid / capric acid mixture (molar ratio 1 / 2) Qsp 100 - - - Process for the preparation of compositions C1 to C9
[0142] The two acids are mixed in a flask. The mixture is heated with stirring at 70°C for 1 hour. After returning the temperature of the reaction medium to room temperature, compound E is added to the resulting liquid and the mixture is again heated with stirring at 70°C for 20 minutes. After returning to room temperature, composition C1 to C9 is obtained in the form of a slightly viscous, transparent, colorless liquid of the oil type.
[0143] Example 1: Evaluation of hairstyle hold in a humid environment
[0144] The hold of the hairstyle, i.e. the formation of frizz and the increase in volume of hair in a humid environment were evaluated for compositions Cl to C4 according to the evaluation protocol described below.
[0145] Wicks used
[0146] 2.7g strands of Brazilian hair with a length of 27cm and type IV curl were used.
[0147] Evaluation protocol
[0148] The strands were washed using a DOP shampoo (0.4 g / g of hair) before applying the compositions to be tested. 81 mg of each of the test compositions were then applied to separate damp strands, previously wrung out and dabbed on absorbent paper. This application was done with the fingers while kneading the hair fiber. The hair strands were then combed, detangled and placed in a glove box at 20% relative humidity at 25°C for 2 hours. The wicks were then placed in an oven at 80% relative humidity at 25°C for 24 hours. Volume and frizz measurements via the measurement of the width of the strand at mid-height were carried out at the exit of the oven and compared with the value obtained for a reference strand which had not undergone treatment with the composition according to the invention.
[0149] Results of the evaluation
[0150] The results of the measurements of the widths of the wicks at mid-height in cm are summarized in the table below:
[0151] [Tables3] Tested compositions Width of wicks at mid-height (before application of compositions) Width of wicks at mid-height final (out of oven) Cl 2 2.8 C2 2 2.7 C3 2 3.6 C4 2 3.2 Reference (Untreated wick) 2 4.9
[0152] It is observed that the width values of the wicks at mid-height are lower for the wicks treated by the method according to the invention than for the reference wick.
[0153] The method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to limit the formation of frizz and the increase in the volume of the hair in a humid environment, even in the absence of silicone raw materials.
[0154] Example 2: Evaluation of "smoothness to the touch" by the extensometry method
[0155] The method consists of recording the friction power of a dry wick or wet when moving it in the root / tip direction between two pads clamping it at constant compression. This method thus makes it possible to evaluate the "smoothness to the touch" by mimicking the passage of two fingers along a lock of hair
[0156] The lower the friction power, the smoother the surface condition of the hair.
[0157] The "smoothness to the touch" was evaluated for compositions C1, C2, C7 and C8 according to the evaluation protocol described below.
[0158] Wicks used
[0159] For the study, strands of bleached Caucasian hair (alkaline solubility SA20) were used.
[0160] Evaluation protocol
[0161] The compositions to be tested were applied according to the leave-on and rinse-off protocol described below, then measurements in the wet and dry states were carried out.
[0162] A power ratio between treated hair and untreated hair could thus be determined: P^tésCW) / Pnontreated(W).
[0163] Leave-on protocol
[0164] 1) Washing the strand with a DOP shampoo at a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair; 2) Application of the compositions to still damp hair according to a bath ratio of 0.15 g / g of hair, no application time.
[0165] Rinse-off protocol
[0166] 1) Washing the strand with a DOP shampoo at a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair; 2) Application of the compositions to still damp hair using a bath ratio of 0.4 g / g of hair followed by a setting time of 5 min;
[0167] 3) Rinsing: 15 times under running water, 2 wrings with fingers, wetting with water then final spin with pliers.
[0168] The measurements were carried out either on hair that was still damp or on hair that had been dried in an oven at 60°C for 15 min.
[0169] Results
[0170] The results of the measurements are summarized in the table below:
[0171] [Tables4] Tested composition Protocol P / P x treated7 A untreated on wet hair P / P x treated7 A untreated on dry hair Cl Rinse-off 0.43 0.73 Cl Leave-on 0.44 0.64 C2 Rinse-off 0.40 0.65 C2 Leave-on 0.39 0.78 C7 Rinse-off 0.46 0.64 C7 Leave-on 0.50 0.65 C8 Rinse-off 0.45 0.64 C8 Leave-on 0.51 0.71
[0172] Lower friction powers are observed on dry and wet hair. for hair treated by the process according to the present invention than for untreated hair. The surface of the hair is smoother, even in the absence of silicone raw materials. Treated hair is softer, easier to comb and detangle, than untreated hair.< / v>
Claims
Claims
1. Process for treating keratin fibers comprising step i) of applying to the keratin fibers a composition (C) comprising: • at least two distinct compounds D chosen independently from the compounds of the following formula (I), their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: 0 (0 Formula (I) in which: ■ R1 represents: - a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -O-, -CO-, -NRa-, or combinations thereof such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(CO)- or -(CO)-NRa- ;or - a (hetero)cyclic group such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH) or Rb-(CO)-; ■ Ra represents a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from (-OH), amino (-NH2) or carboxyl (-COOH); ■ Rb represents a (C2-Cio)alkyl group; and • one or more compounds E chosen from modified polysaccharides;
2. Process according to the preceding claim, in which R1 represents a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon group being optionally substituted by one or more groups, identical or different, chosen from: hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), carboxyl (-COOH), (hetero)cyclic such as phenyl and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -0-, -CO-, -NRa-, or their combinations such as -O-CO-, -(CO)-O-, -NRa-(C0)- or -(C0)-NRa-, preferably a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted, comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one of the distinct compounds D, preferably all of the distinct compounds D are in non-salified form.
4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least two of the distinct compounds D are in non-salified form and the molar ratio of total amount of one of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form / total amount of another of the distinct compounds D in non-salified form in composition (C) is from 0.25 to A
5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (C) comprises no more than five distinct compounds D, preferably no more than four distinct compounds D, more preferably no more than three distinct compounds D, even more preferably no more than two distinct compounds D.
6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the distinct compounds D are selected from the following compounds 1 to 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures: Diethylamino acid Compound 1 Palmitic acid Compound 2 Oi- Myristic acid Compound 3 OH Iaunque acid Compound 4 OH Isosteafic acid Compound 5 0 RC with RCO- represented the ac^es groups derived from coconut ndx Cocsyi Sarcosine Lauroyï Lysine Compound 7 Adde béhéntqae Compound 8 n-Octsno^-S-sa^üque acid Compound 9 Hydraxystearic acid Compound 10 2-dodecanol:msdope:ntanedioic acid Compound 11 2-heps adecanBmidopetltanedloiqae acid Compound 12 J Qx ..-yy CH Glyceiyi Stearate Ciiraie Compound 13 OH Capryioyi Giyd&e Compound 14 1 l-Aminoundecanic Acid Compound 15 Capric acid Compound 16 Eaptyfic acid Tü-hyds'o»fdec.aàoic acid OH Adde 1 G-^droxy-2-de&enoic Compound 19 Hydroxystenylsuccinate Compound 20 Acsfe £kaminocaproic acid Compound 21 Laweth-11 casboxylic acid Compound 22 Adde acetamidocapfosqae Compound 23 QH Adde aieuriëque Acid afachWfaue Compound 25 Arachidonic acid Compound 26 Add. 24Mtylocianoïqu& Compound 27 Cerestic acid Compound 28 4-Hydroctyl-2-4-decanoic acid Adde 4-éihyioctanmqüe Compound 30 1 hour Stearic Acid Compound 31 Linal-eiqu® acid Compound 32 Drwjamic Acid Compound 33 Genetic acid Compound 34 Heptaenoic acid Compound 35 Ackfe Compound 36 Adde peiargaraque Compound 37 OH %dde phé^lacéSque Compound 38 OH OH Rtcjpoi acid eiqise Compound 39 preferably chosen from compounds 1 to 20, 22, 25, 26, 28, 31, 32, 36 or 39, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; more preferably chosen from compounds 1, 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures; even more preferably chosen from compounds 4, 16 or 17, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures.
7. Method according to claim 1, in which the distinct compounds D are chosen from the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total amount of caprylic acid / total amount of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of lauric acid / total quantity of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and sodium laurate, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of sodium laurate in composition (C) preferably being equal to 4 / 1; preferably among the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of lauric acid and oleic acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of lauric acid / total quantity of oleic acid in composition (C) preferably being from 0.25 to 0.7, more preferably equal to 1 / 3; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1; more preferably among the following combinations of compounds: - the combination of caprylic acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 3 / 1; - the combination of capric acid and lauric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of capric acid / total quantity of lauric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 2 / 1; - the combination of caprylic acid and capric acid, the molar ratio of total quantity of caprylic acid / total quantity of capric acid in composition (C) preferably being equal to 1 / 1.
8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) comprises a total content of distinct compounds D of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 99.9% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) E are cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric, preferably non-ionic or anionic, more preferably non-ionic.
10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are derived from polysaccharides chosen from: - gum arabic; - gum ghatti; - gum karaya; - gum tragacanth; - agar; - alginates; - carrageenans and furcellerans; - guar gum; - locust bean gum; - fenugreek gum; - tamarind gum; - konjac gum; - xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; - gellan gum; - scleroglucan gum; - cellulose; - starch; - inulin; - pectin; - pullulan; - chitin; - chitosan; - hyaluronic acid; and - mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from starch, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) E are chosen from polysaccharide ethers, polysaccharide esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polysaccharide esters, more preferably from pullulan or dextrin esters, even more preferably from dextrin palmitates, myristoyl pullulans, and mixtures thereof.
12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (C) comprises a total content of compounds E of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.1% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (C).
13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mass ratio of total quantity of distinct compounds D / total quantity of compounds E in composition (C) is from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 200.
14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total silicone content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still, the composition (C) is free of silicones.
15. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of cationic polymers of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of cationic polymers.
16. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of ca- surfactants cationic surfactants less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (C), and even better still composition (C) is free of cationic surfactants.
17. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total content of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and better still less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C), and even better still the composition (C) is free of poly(oxyethylenated) compounds.
18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (C) comprises a total water content of less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, even more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and better still less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (C) and even better still the composition (C) is anhydrous.
19. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (C) comprises one or more organic solvents chosen from C2-C4 alcohols, polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition (C) is applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.
21. Method according to the preceding claim comprising at least one additional step following step i) chosen from the following steps ii) to iv): ii) a step of applying the composition (C) to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step optionally being carried out under a hermetic film such as a papillote or plastic film; iii) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; iv) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.
22. Composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19.
23. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 for the care of keratin fibers, preferably for providing the keratin fibers with softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch and / or shine, more preferably for providing softness to the touch and / or a smoothness to the touch.
24. Use of a composition (C) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 19 for protecting keratin fibers from humidity, preferably for limiting the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of the hair in a humid environment.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Solid hair cosmetic composition
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Hair treatment compositions
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Anhydrous solid composition comprising a combination of carboxylate and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and silicones
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Solid composition comprising a combination of anionic surfactants of sulfonate and carboxylate types
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