HAIR REVITALIZATION COMPLEX
The hair revitalization composition, featuring cellulose polymers, non-ionic surfactants, hydroxy acids, and carboxylic acids, addresses the issue of sticky hair care products by providing a non-greasy, softening hair treatment that promotes hair health and comfort.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023013666
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-10-31
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-06
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-06
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care products that aim to address scalp issues like dandruff and hair loss often contain high concentrations of active ingredients, leading to a sticky sensation on the scalp and hair roots, which is undesirable for consumers.
A hair revitalization composition comprising at least one polymer based on cellulose, a non-ionic surfactant, a hydroxy acid, and a carboxylic acid or its salt, which work together to provide a non-greasy, non-sticky sensory experience while promoting hair health.
The composition effectively offers good fiber sensory quality, providing softness and a non-greasy feel to the hair, while also addressing scalp issues without leaving a sticky residue.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR REVITALIZING COMPOSITION Technical field
[0001] The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for revitalizing hair. The present invention also relates to a process for revitalizing hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Consumers tend to use leave-in scalp lotions when they have noticed their scalp problem: dandruff, scalp sensitivity, hair loss, etc.
[0003] Some leave-in products generally contain a high concentration of hydroalcoholic soluble actives. To achieve more transdermal absorption or penetration via the follicles, a simple way is to ensure a concentration gradient, which means that a large amount of active ingredient remains on the surface. Generally, a large amount of active ingredient will cause a sticky feeling on the scalp and at the hair roots, which is not desired by consumers.
[0004] We therefore wish to have an effective solution for good sensory quality of the hair. Summary of the invention
[0005] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition, preferably for revitalizing hair, which can offer good sensory fiber quality.
[0006] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for revitalizing hair, comprising:
[0007] a) at least one cellulose-based polymer;
[0008] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant;
[0009] c) from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxyl acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0010] d) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof:
[0011] Ri-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)
[0012] in which:
[0013] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH 2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And
[0014] - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and
[0015] - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0016] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can effectively provide good fiber sensory quality including softness and / or a non-greasy and / or not too sticky feel.
[0017] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the hair.
[0018] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even more apparent upon reading the detailed description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0019] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises:
[0020] a) at least one cellulose-based polymer;
[0021] b) at least one non-ionic surfactant;
[0022] c) from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxyl acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0023] d) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) as defined above and / or a salt thereof. Cellulose-based polymers
[0024] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one cellulose-based polymer.
[0025] As used herein, the term "cellulose-based" polymer is intended to refer to any polysaccharide compound having within its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] linkages; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or non-ionic.
[0026] Preferably, the cellulose-based polymer used according to the invention is chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers and mixtures thereof.
[0027] Among the cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetate propionate sulfates.
[0028] Cellulose ethers include nonionic cellulose ethers, anionic cellulose ethers, and cationic cellulose ethers.
[0029] Examples of nonionic cellulose ethers include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (e.g., Bermocoll 20 E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0030] Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts.
[0031] Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopro-pyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
[0032] Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0033] More preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from non-ionic cellulose ethers.
[0034] More preferably still, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from (poly)hydroxy(C 1 -C4)alkylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.
[0035] Most preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is chosen from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.
[0036] Advantageously, the cellulose-based polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, and more preferably, from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants
[0037] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0038] Examples of nonionic surfactants include, but are not limited to:
[0039] (1) polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols, for example, condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in a straight chain or branched chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, said ethylene oxide being present in amounts equal to about 10 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;
[0040] (2) those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylene diamine products;
[0041] (3) condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, in straight-chain or branched-chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, for example, an ethylene oxide condensate of coconut alcohol having from about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having from about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms;
[0042] (4) long chain tertiary amine oxides of formula [R'R2R3N—>0] where R1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl, or monohydroxy alkyl radical of about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety, and R2 and R3 each independently contain from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and from 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl radicals;
[0043] (5) long chain tertiary phosphine oxides of formula [RR'R"P—>0] where R contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moiety and R' and R” are each independently alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
[0044] (6) long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing an alkyl or hy- radical short chain droxyalkyl of 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and a long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxyalkyl or ketoalkyl radicals containing from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moiety;
[0045] (7) alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (e.g., alkyl polyglycosides), including APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there may be a polyalkylene oxide group that bridges the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic moiety) may be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxy or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside, which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and
[0046] (8) polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of formula RO(CH2CH2O)nH and Polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, such as those of the formula R(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)nOH, wherein n is from 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R is alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
[0047] Polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides as described in item (8) above useful herein include mono-, di- and tri-glyceride derivatives and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from those of the following general formula (II): o (II) RCOCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)„OH
[0049] in which:
[0050] n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and
[0051] R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms.
[0052] Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides may be polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil.
[0053] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyacids
[0055] The composition of the present invention comprises from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] The hydroxy acid suitable for the composition according to the present invention can be chosen among alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, and combinations thereof, preferably alpha-hydroxy acids. Alpha-hydroxy acids
[0057] The term "alpha-hydroxy acid" is intended to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid functional group).
[0058] Suitable alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aleuritic acid, ribonic acid, tartronic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid.
[0059] Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, and combinations thereof.
[0060] More preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid in the composition consists of lactic acid.
[0061] Lactic acid or 2-hydroxypropanoic acid allows gentle exfoliation of excess sebum, residues and dead cells around the follicles and gives energy and bounce to the hair roots. Beta-hydroxy acids
[0062] The term "beta-hydroxy acid" is intended to mean, according to the present invention, a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms.
[0063] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxybutyric acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, carnitine, their derivatives and combinations thereof.
[0064] Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivative of formula (III):
[0065] in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic saturated aliphatic group or an unsaturated aliphatic group containing one or a certain number of double bonds, which may or may not be conjugated, these groups containing from 2 to 22, preferably from 3 to 11 carbon atoms and which may be substituted for example by at least one substituent chosen from (a) halogen atoms, (b) the trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl functional group which is free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0066] R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester functional group of the following formula (IV): ---O — C — Rj(iv) O
[0067] in which Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0068] Preferred salicylic acid derivatives include 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid.
[0069] More preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is chosen from salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-decanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoyl salicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxy salicylic acid and combinations thereof.
[0070] Most preferably, the beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.
[0071] Advantageously, the hydroxy acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1.8% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2.2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] Carboxylic acids of formula (I) and / or salts thereof
[0073] The composition of the present invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof:
[0074] RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I)
[0075] in which:
[0076] - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH,-CH 2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2 -COOH; And
[0077] - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and
[0078] - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon or a cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0079] More specifically, the carboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to:
[0080] - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, when Ri re has a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or when Ri represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom or when R, represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom;
[0081] - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents the group -CH(CH3)-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or when Ri represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and
[0082] - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, when Ri represents the group -CH2CH2OH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.
[0083] The carboxylic acids of formula (I) may take the form of pure enantiomers, preferably in L-configuration, or the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.
[0084] The salt of the carboxylic acid of formula (I) is preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, transition metal salts, organic amine salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.
[0085] Examples of alkali metal salts include, but are not limited to, sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts include, but are not limited to, calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.
[0086] For the purposes of the present invention, a “transition metal” is a metal comprising an incomplete d subshell, and more particularly in oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).
[0087] As for organic amine salts, mention may be made of salts of primary, secondary or tertiary amines, or alternatively of alkanolamines. Said amines have a or several identical or non-identical radicals, of linear or branched C1 to C2o alkyl type, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen.
[0088] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof used in the composition of the present invention is selected from methylglycine-diacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures, and more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their salts organic amine, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.
[0089] Better still, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their solvates and their mixtures.
[0090] Preferably, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof used according to the present invention is chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate (tetrasodium glutamate diacetate) and mixtures thereof.
[0091] Advantageously, the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0092] The composition of the present invention may further comprise a continuous aqueous phase.
[0093] The aqueous phase comprises water.
[0094] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] Optionally, the continuous aqueous phase comprises one or more water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature 25°C) such as, for example, mo alcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic active ingredients
[0096] Optionally, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more additional active ingredients for revitalizing the hair and / or caring for the scalp such as anti-inflammatory agents.
[0097] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional active ingredients depending on the desired objective. Adjuvants
[0098] The composition of the present invention may also comprise additional adjuvants, such as perfumes, hydrotropes, pH adjusters, preservatives, etc.
[0099] A person skilled in the art can choose the amount of additional adjuvants so that it does not have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0101] a) from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic cellulose chosen from hydroxymethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof;
[0102] b) from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof,
[0103] c) from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and combinations thereof; and
[0104] d) from 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or salt thereof chosen from the acid N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid (GLDA), tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and mixtures thereof. Preparation and use
[0105] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, as well as one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.
[0106] The composition according to the present invention can provide good fiber sensory quality.
[0107] The composition according to the present invention may be, for example, a revitalizer.
[0108] According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a hair revitalization process comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the hair. EXAMPLES
[0109] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0110] The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers are listed in Table 1. [YES] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate DISSOLVINE® GL-47-S AKZO NOBEL (NOURYON) Lactic Acid L-LACTIC ACID (90%) (CRG) MUSASHINO CHEMICAL LABORATORY PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil EMULSOGEN® HCO 060 CLARIANT Hydroxyethylcellulose NATROSOL™ 250 HHR CS ASHLAND Caffeine NATURAL ANHYDROUS CAFFEINE POWDER (EX COFFEE) TESTA Niacinamide NIACINAMIDE (A7000-9014) VEER CHEMIE & AROMATICS Di-Potassium Glycyrrhizate DI-POTASSIUM GLYCYRRHIZINATE MARUZEN Potassium Hydroxide CAUSTIC POTASH LIQUID OXYCHEM Propanediol 1,3-PROPANEDIOL ZHANGJIAGANG GLORY CHEMICAL IND
[0112] Inventive Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6
[0113] The compositions of inventive examples (EI) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (CE) 1 to 6 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight based on the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated):
[0114] [T ables 2] Components El. 1 DI 2 DI 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Lactic Acid 3 6 3 3 0 3 3 3 1 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0 0.3 0 0.3 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0 0 0.1 Propanediol 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.4 0 Caffeine 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Glycyrrhizin ate di-potassium 0.5 0.5 1 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Potassium hydroxide pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) pH(4.2) Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100
[0115] The compositions of examples of the invention 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0116] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not comprise at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof.
[0117] The composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one hydroxy acid.
[0118] The composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0119] The composition of comparative example 4 does not comprise at least one cellulose-based polymer.
[0120] The composition of comparative example 5 does not comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant and at least one cellulose-based polymer.
[0121] The composition of comparative example 6 comprises 1% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] Preparation procedure:
[0123] Each composition was prepared as follows, taking the composition of Inventive Example 1 as an example:
[0124] 1). adding water to a main container;
[0125] 2). adding hydroxyethylcellulose with stirring until the powder hydroxyethylcellulose is well wetted and dispersed;
[0126] 3). addition of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and PEG- hydrogenated castor oil 60 with stirring until well dissolved;
[0127] 4). addition of lactic acid and water-soluble active ingredients (glycyrrhizinate of dipotassium, niacinamide and caffeine) with stirring to obtain a homogeneous composition; and
[0128] 5). pH correction with potassium hydroxide. Assessment
[0129] The stickiness of the fiber, the feeling of softness and the greasy hair after application of the compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 6 were evaluated by an in vitro strand test. In vitro wick test
[0130] 1 g strands of natural hair were fixed upside down on a support via the root by a fixing clip. 0.45 g of tested compositions was applied to the fiber 3 cm from the root.
[0131] The sticky sensation was rated from 1 to 5 by a hair expert according to the following criterion:
[0132] 1: no powdery coating feeling, no sticky feeling on the fingers after touching the strands;
[0133] 2: slightly powdery coating, slightly sticky feeling on the fingers, but the wick is smooth;
[0134] 3: powdery coating and sticky feeling on the fingers, acceptable and will not be not related to a feeling of dirt;
[0135] 4: significant powdery coating and sticky feeling on the fingers, the re clothing gives a bad association of feeling dirty, still no white powder visible on the strands;
[0136] 5: highly powdery and very sticky coating on the fingers, and powder Visible white may appear after several combings.
[0137] The fiber stickiness scores after application of the compositions of Inventive Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 have been summarized in Table 3.
[0138] [Tables3] Properties ELI EL 2 EI.3 EC.l EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 44 EC. 5 EC. 6 Fiber stickiness 2 1 2 4 5 4 3 5 5 Double-blind study
[0139] In a single-center, randomized, double-blind study, 69 European women were asked to use the composition of inventive example 1 for 8 weeks and to answer a questionnaire on the feeling of softness to the touch and the absence of greasy feeling of the hair immediately after the first application (Timm) and after 8 weeks of application (Tw8). The percentages of women agreeing with the statements were recorded.
[0140] The results after application of the composition of inventive example 1 have been summarized in Table 4.
[0141] [Tables4] Point in Time Timm Tw8 Leaves hair feeling soft 43% 78% Does not leave hair greasy 68% 70%
[0142] It can be seen from Table 4 that the composition of inventive example 1 results in a feeling of softness of the hair and does not leave the hair greasy.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition, preferably for revitalizing hair, comprising: a) at least one cellulose-based polymer; b) at least one non-ionic surfactant; c) from 1.5% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid, relative to the total weight of the composition; and d) at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which: - Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and - R2 represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is other than a hydrogen atom; and - R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic alkyl group comprising from 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein: the cellulose-based polymer is selected from unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose esters, cellulose ethers, cellulose ester ethers and mixtures thereof, more preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is selected from non-ionic cellulose ethers, even more preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is selected from (poly)hydroxy (C 1 -C 4)alkylcelluloses, mixed (poly)hydroxy (Cl-C 4)alkyl (Cl-C 4)alkylcelluloses and mixtures thereof, most preferably, the cellulose-based polymer is selected from hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses, hydroxypropylcelluloses; hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses, hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses and mixtures thereof.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulose-based polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from those of the following general formula (II): H (II) RCOCH2CH(OH)CH.j(QCH;^ wherein: n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200, preferably from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25 carbon atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms, preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the hydroxy acid is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and combinations thereof, preferably chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, more preferably chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and combinations thereof.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the hydroxyl acid is present in an amount ranging from 1.8% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2.2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 3% by weight to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof is
8.
9. chosen from methylglycinediacetic acid, N-lauroylethylenediamine-N,N',N'-triacetic acid, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures, and preferably chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures, more preferably chosen among N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and mixtures thereof.A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises a continuous aqueous phase, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water. Composition according to claim 1, in which the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: a) from 0.03% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic cellulose chosen from hydroxymethyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and mixtures thereof; b) from 0.05% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from PEG-20 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and mixtures thereof, c) from 2.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one hydroxy acid chosen from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, citric acid and combinations thereof; and d) from 0.03% by weight to 0.3% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and / or a salt thereof chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl-L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate and mixtures thereof.
10. A process for revitalizing hair comprising applying the composition of any one of claims 1 to 9 to the hair.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Process for the preparation of graft copolymers of a water soluble monomer and polysaccharide employing a two-phase reaction system
US4131576A