SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS
The composition of silicone elastomer resin, high and moderate oil absorption charges, and pigments in matte lipsticks addresses the challenge of achieving uniform and blurred color effects, resulting in an enhanced matte finish.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023012625
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-10-25
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-17
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-02
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-11-17
AI Technical Summary
Existing matte lipsticks struggle to achieve a uniform, blurred effect on the lips, as traditional silicone loads and elastomers fail to satisfy the consumer's requirement for a gradual color application.
A composition comprising at least one silicone elastomer resin, a first charge with high oil absorption capacity, a second charge with moderate oil absorption capacity, and more than 5% but less than 14% pigment by weight, which together provide a matte makeup finish with uniform coloring and blurred effect.
The composition effectively achieves a matte, uniform, and blurred color finish on the lips, addressing the limitations of traditional formulations and enhancing the aesthetic appeal of matte lipsticks.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. The present invention relates more particularly to a composition for caring for and / or making up the lips. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Lipsticks have been used for many years to accentuate the positive aspects of the wearer's lips. Lipsticks are capable of altering the apparent facial features of the wearer. In addition to altering the shape of the lips, lipsticks can be manufactured in a large number of colors and shades to promote a desired effect or express the mood of the wearer.
[0003] To date, certain prior art documents relating to cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or skin and / or lip care have been published.
[0004] Lipsticks offering a matte makeup finish are preferred by consumers.
[0005] For most matte lipsticks, oil-absorbing fillers and silicone elastomers are used to create a matte and slippery effect to evenly color the entire lip without color difference.
[0006] Consumers are now using certain gestures to create a “blurred effect” on their lips, i.e. to “gradually” color their lips. This requirement cannot be easily met using traditional fillers and silicone elastomer. At the same time, the level of pigments will have a great influence on the blurred effect.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need to develop a lipstick that can offer a matte makeup finish with uniform colouring and a blurred effect. Summary of the invention
[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a composition which can offer a matte makeup finish with uniform colouring and a blurred effect on keratinous materials, in particular the lips.
[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, particularly of the lips, which can provide a matte, evenly colored makeup finish with a blurred effect.
[0010] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising:
[0011] a) at least one silicone elastomer resin;
[0012] b) at least one first charge having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g;
[0013] c) at least one second charge having an oil absorption capacity of 40-140 g of oil / 100 g; and
[0014] d) more than 5% by weight and less than 14% by weight of at least one pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0015] The inventors have discovered that with the combination of the components a) to d) above, the composition according to the present invention can offer a matte makeup finish with uniform coloring and a blurred effect.
[0016] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above on the keratinous materials.
[0017] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0018] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by this invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by this invention, the definition described in this document shall apply.
[0019] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0020] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
[0021] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing a quantity The use of the term "approximately" in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate and may be changed depending on the intended purpose, if applicable.
[0023] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0024] As used herein, the term "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. By "skin" is meant all skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material refers to the lips.
[0025] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is solid.
[0026] The term "solid" as used herein means that the hardness of the composition at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm 1 when measured according to the protocol described below.
[0027] The composition whose hardness is to be determined is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
[0028] The hardness can be measured at 20 °C by the "butter wire" method, which consists of cutting a rod of product, preferably a circular cylinder, transversely with a rigid tungsten wire of 250 pm diameter, moving the wire relative to the rod at a speed of 100 mm / minute.
[0029] The hardness of the composition samples of the present invention, expressed in Nm A, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.
[0030] The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newtons and then divided by L, which represents the longest distance traveled by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
[0031] Hardness is converted to Nm 1 by the equation below:
[0032] (Y x 103 x 9.8) / L
[0033] For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
[0034] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 40 Nm 1 and preferably greater than 75 Nm1. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a standard packaging which does not require any composition support means.
[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has in particular a hardness at 20°C of less than 200 Nm1, and preferably of less than 160 Nm1.
[0036] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0037] a) at least one silicone elastomer resin;
[0038] b) at least one first charge having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g;
[0039] c) at least one second charge having an oil absorption capacity of 40-140 g of oil / 100 g, and
[0040] d) more than 5% by weight and less than 14% by weight of at least one pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone elastomer resins
[0041] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer resin.
[0042] As used herein, "silicone elastomer resin" is a compound comprising a portion of "silicone elastomer" and a portion of "resin". Silicone elastomer resins are described or referenced in US patents Nos. 8,987,373 and 9,175,139 and in US patent application publication No. 2015 / 0073059.
[0043] With regard to the silicone elastomer portion, this portion corresponds to polyorganosiloxanes commonly known as silicone elastomers. In the art, "elastomer" is generally understood to be a flexible and deformable solid material having viscoelastic properties. However, its modulus of elasticity is such that it resists deformation and has a limited capacity to expand and contract.
[0044] The silicone elastomer portion is preferably partially or completely crosslinked. The degree of crosslinking can vary depending on the desired elastic properties. The crosslinking materials can be hydrophilic (ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, for example), hydrophobic (dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone, alkyl, etc.) or combinations thereof.
[0045] Crosslinking can be achieved, for example, by an addition crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups comprising an ethylenic unsaturation bonded to distinct silicon atoms, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a condensation / dehydrogenation crosslinking reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl ends and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom, in particular in the presence of an organotine compound; or by a condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising hydroxyl ends and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane, particularly in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of an organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation, such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
[0046] The crosslinking can be obtained, for example, by a crosslinking reaction by addition (A) of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen atom bonded to a silicon atom and (B) of a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two groups each comprising ethylenic unsaturation bonded to a separate silicon atom, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst such as, for example, disclosed in application EP-A-295 886.
[0047] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Compound (A) may therefore be selected from methylhydropolysiloxanes comprising trimethylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy ends, or cyclic dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrosiloxane copolymers.
[0048] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred.In addition to the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, other organic groups bonded to silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups, such as phenyl, tolyl, or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenylsiloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane / diphenyl- copolymers. siloxane / methylvinylsiloxane comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy ends, dimethylsiloxane / methylphenyl-siloxane / methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy ends, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy ends and dimethylsiloxane / methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy ends.
[0049] According to preferred embodiments, the crosslinking is at least partially accomplished by the resin portion. Preferably, the crosslinking in the silicone elastomer resin is solely due to the resin portion.
[0050] With respect to the resin portion, using the nomenclature for silicone resins ("MDTQ"), the resin portion can be described in terms of the various monomeric siloxane units that constitute the polymer.
[0051] The letter "M" represents the monofunctional unit, for example, of formula (CH3)3 SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
[0052] The letter "D" denotes a difunctional unit, for example, (CH3)2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
[0053] The letter T represents a trifunctional unit, for example, of formula (CH3)SiO3 / 2.
[0054] The letter Q denotes a tetrafunctional unit SiO4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
[0055] Thus, for example, the resin portion may be a T resin, an MQ (“trimethylsiloxysilicate”) resin, an MT resin, an MDT resin, an MDQ resin, etc.
[0056] In the exemplary M, D and T units listed above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted with a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group. In preferred embodiments, the hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is a methyl group.
[0057] The silicone elastomer resin preferably has a particle size ranging from 0.1 to 500 qm, preferably from 3 to 200 qm and most preferably from 3 to 50 qm. The silicone elastomer resin can have any shape and, for example, be spherical, flat or amorphous.
[0058] According to preferred embodiments, when placed in a solvent, the silicone elastomer resin does not swell substantially (unlike typical silicone elastomers which swell upon introduction into a solvent). Preferably, when placed in a solvent, the silicone elastomer resin swells (increases in size) by less than 10% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably by less than 7.5% of the size of the resin silicone elastomer (in the unswollen state), preferably less than 5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably less than 2.5% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state), preferably less than 1% of the size of the silicone elastomer resin (in the unswollen state).
[0059] Preferably, the silicone elastomer resin comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate group.
[0060] Suitable examples of silicone elastomeric resins include vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, available as BELSIL® RG 90 (Isododecane (and) Vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosspolymer) elastomeric gel from Wacker; dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer, available under the trademark BELSIL® REG 1102 (DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER) from Wacker; and dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer, available under the trademark BELSIL® REG 102 (Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone / Vinyl-trimethyl-siloxysilicate Crosspolymer) from Wacker.
[0061] In some embodiments, the silicone elastomer resin is selected from the crosslinked vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone polymer, the crosslinked dimethicone / vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate polymer, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] Silicone elastomeric resins can be dissolved in a suitable solvent, either before their introduction into the composition of the invention, or in situ within the composition. Examples of suitable solvents include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile silicones, volatile and non-volatile alcohols, volatile and non-volatile esters, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] Advantageously, the silicone elastomer resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges
[0064] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least a first charge having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g (also referred to herein as the first charge) and at least a second charge having an oil absorption capacity of 40-140 g of oil / 100 g (also referred to herein as the second charge).
[0065] As used herein, "oil absorption capacity" is measured according to the wetting point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below:
[0066] A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is stirred with a spatula, and the addition of oil continues until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this stage, the oil is added one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The weight (expressed in g) of the oil used is then recorded.
[0067] The oil intake corresponds to the g / g ratio. First charge
[0068] Preferably, the first filler is chosen from hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas.
[0069] By the expression "hydrophobically modified amorphous silica" is meant, in the context of the present invention, an amorphous silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[0070] Examples of hydrophobically modified amorphous silica include silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, and silica cetyl silylate.
[0071] According to certain preferred embodiments, the first filler is selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, silica cetyl silylate and mixtures thereof.
[0072] According to a specific embodiment, the hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas used in the composition of the invention are of sublimed origin. They are preferably provided in powder form.
[0073] Hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas of fumed origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in a continuous flame at 1000 °C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. Hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, among other things, by a lower density of silanol groups and a smaller adsorption of water vapor.
[0074] According to this embodiment, the first filler is preferably chosen from hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas having a specific surface area of 50 to 500 m2 / g and an average number particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm. This refers more specifically to hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas described in the following table, and their mixtures.
[0075] [Tables4] Trade name Aerosil R202 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R805 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R812 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R972 (Evonik Degussa) Aerosil R974 (Evonik Degussa) BET surface (m2 / g) 90 + 20 150 + 25 260 + 30 110 + 20 170 + 20 Average particle size (nm) 14 12 7 16 12
[0076] Preferably, as hydrophobically modified amorphous silica, a hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that sold under the name Aerosil R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by Evonik Degussa, is used.
[0077] According to another specific embodiment, the hydrophobically modified amorphous silica used in the composition of the invention is in the form of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g and a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), ranging from 1 to 1500 pm.
[0078] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0079] They are usually synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, typically by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents pore and material shrinkage. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0080] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles useful in the present invention may preferably have a specific surface area per unit mass (SW) of 500 to 1500 m² / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m² / g, and even better 600 to 800 m² / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size (Dv50), of 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0081] According to certain embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), also known as volume median particle size Dv50) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, more preferably from 5 to 20 pm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 pm.
[0082] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered. The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Malvern MasterSizer 2000 type. The data are processed based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles" Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0083] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size, expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0.5], also known as volume median particle size Dv50), of 5 to 20 pm and even better of 5 to 15 pm.
[0084] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention advantageously have a packed density (p) ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3 and preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0085] In the context of the present invention, this density, known as tamped density, can be evaluated according to the following protocol:
[0086] 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder; the cylinder graduated cylinder is then placed on the Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the graduated cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 tamping movements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of tamped powder is then measured directly on the graduated cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio w / Vf, in the case of the point 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and w in g).
[0087] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and even better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0088] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SW xp where p is the packed density, expressed in g / cm3, and SW is the specific surface area per unit weight, expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0089] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g and more preferably from 8 to 12 mL / g.
[0090] With regard to the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference may be made to US 7,470,725.
[0091] In particular, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica) will be used.
[0092] More particularly, the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 pm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0093] Most preferably, the first filler is selected from silica silylate aerogel particles having an average size ranging from 5 to 15 μm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0094] Advantageously, the first filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Second charges
[0095] The second filler is selected from mineral or organic fillers having an oil absorption capacity of 40 to 140 g of oil / 100 g and may have any shape, for example a platelet, spherical or oblong shape, regardless of the crystallographic shape (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
[0096] Examples of second fillers include silica, kaolin, clay, bentone, hydrophobically treated sublimated silica particles, or polyamide (Nylon®) powder (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-[3-alanine] powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder (Teflon®), polymer microspheres such as PMMA (e.g. COVABEAD LH 85 from Sensient), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microspheres (e.g. Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, polyorganosiloxane elastomeric particles and mixtures thereof.
[0097] Preferably, the second filler is chosen from mineral fillers.
[0098] More preferably, the second filler is selected from silica, kaolin, clay, bentone, hydrophobically treated fumed silica particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.
[0099] Preferably, the second charge is chosen from silica, kaolin and mixtures thereof.
[0100] Advantageously, the second filler having an absorption capacity of 40-140 g of oil / 100 g is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 12% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pigments
[0101] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises more than 5% by weight and less than 14% by weight of at least one pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, which are insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and which are intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit produced with the composition.
[0103] The pigments may be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).
[0104] Mineral pigments can be selected from metal oxide pigments, such as chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides, zirconium oxides, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum and copper powders, and mixtures thereof.
[0105] Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red. No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Purple No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium Lake, Aluminum Lake D&C Red No. 9, D&C Red No. 9 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium / Strontium Lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium Lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium Lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminum Lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum Lake,D&C Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Barium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Calcium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Red No. 27, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 28, D&C Lacquer Red No. 30, D&C Calcium Lacquer Red No. 31, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 33, D&C Calcium Lacquer Red No. 34, D&C Lacquer Red No. 36, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Red No. 40, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Blue No. 1, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Green No. 3, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Orange No. 4, D&C Aluminum Lacquer Orange No. 5, D&C Zirconium Lacquer Orange No. 5, D&C Aluminum Lacquer orange no. 10, D&C barium lake orange no. 17, D&C aluminum lake yellow no. 5, D&C zirconium lake yellow no. 5, D&C aluminum lake yellow no. 6, D&C zirconium lake yellow no. 7, D&C aluminum lake yellow no. 10, FD&C aluminum lake blue no. 1, FD&C aluminum lake red no. 4, FD&C aluminum lake red no. 40, FD&C aluminum lake yellow no. 5 and FD&C aluminum lake yellow no. 6.
[0106] The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.
[0107] The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as me- thicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising per-fluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.
[0108] Preferably, the pigment is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof.
[0109] More preferably, the pigment is chosen from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Advantageously, the pigment is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 6% by weight to 13% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 12% by weight, more preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 6.5% by weight to 9% by weight, most preferably from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes
[0111] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more waxes.
[0112] The term "wax" designates a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
[0113] Preferably, the wax is selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, C20-40 alkyl stearate and mixtures thereof.
[0114] More preferably, the wax is selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina and mixtures thereof.
[0115] Advantageously, the wax is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils)
[0116] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more oils.
[0117] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or oily substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0118] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or similar; a polar oil such as an ester oil or a fatty alcohol; or a mixture of these.
[0119] The oil can be a vegetable oil or a synthetic oil.
[0120] Ester oils are preferably liquid esters of mono- or poly-acids saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatics and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0121] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleophanitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate.
[0123] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isononanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0124] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
[0125] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0126] Examples of ester oils also include triglycerides, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) (or caprylic / capric triglyceride) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0127] Preferably, the ester oils are selected from diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl 2-octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythityl tetraisostearate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
[0129] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0130] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0131] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms; and
[0132] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25°C.
[0133] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0134] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0135] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0136] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
[0137] - lower linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-Ci6 alkanes. Examples that can be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
[0138] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0139] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbons linear or branched such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0140] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one oil selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms such as methylpolysiloxane, caprylyl methylpolysiloxane and dimethylpolysiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of saturated linear or branched C2-CiO aliphatic monoacids and of saturated linear or branched Cio-C2O aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof; most preferably chosen from dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof.
[0141] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Sugar esters
[0142] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more sugar esters.
[0143] Preferred examples of such esters include, but are not limited to, C1-C30 monoesters and sugar polyesters.
[0144] Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters can be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters may include, but are not limited to: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose oleate, sucrose oleate, and mixtures thereof.Suitable solid esters may include, but are not limited to: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a molar ratio of 1:2; raffinose octaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3; maltose heptaester in . in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3:4; sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2:6; and sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4.
[0145] Preferably, the sugar ester is selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters of sucrose. More preferably, the sugar ester is selected from mixed esters of acetic acid, isobutyric acid and sucrose, and in particular sucrose hexakis(2-methylpropanoate) diacetate, such as the product sold under the name Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher by Eastman Chemical (INCI name: sucrose acetate isobutyrate), which has a viscosity of about 100,000 cps at 30 °C and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20 °C.
[0146] Preferably, the sugar ester is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients
[0147] The composition according to the present invention may further include one or more other ingredients generally used in the field concerned.
[0148] For example, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise other ingredients selected from additional fillers having an oil absorption capacity of less than 40 g oil / 100 g such as synthetic fluorophlogopite, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics and mixtures thereof.
[0149] It is routine for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the other ingredients present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, negatively affected by the intended addition.
[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0151] a) from 1% by weight to 5% by weight of silicone elastomer resin selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof;
[0152] b) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of silica silylate aerogel particles having an average size ranging from 5 to 15 pm and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g;
[0153] c) from 3% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one second filler chosen from silica, kaolin and mixtures thereof; and
[0154] d) from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one pigment chosen from RED 7, YELLOW 6, iron oxides, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
[0155] The composition according to the present invention is preferably anhydrous.
[0156] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Where appropriate, these small amounts of water may be supplied by ingredients of the composition that contain it in residual quantities but are not deliberately supplied. Galenic form and use
[0157] The composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care and / or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of a lipstick, a lip gloss, etc.
[0158] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.
[0159] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for / making up keratinous materials comprising the application of the composition as described above to the keratinous materials.
[0160] In particular, the keratinous material is the skin, especially the lips. Examples
[0161] The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0162] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0163] [Tables 1] Nom INCI Nom commercial Fournisseur IRON OXIDES OXYDE DE FER ROUGE SUNPURO™ C33-8001 SUN TITANIUM DIOXIDE TIPAQUE® PF-671 ISHIHARA SANGYO SILICA SILYLATE PARTICULES D'AÉROGEL FINES DOWSIL™ VM-2270 DOW DIMETHICONE et) DL METHICONE / VINYLTRIMETH YLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER BELSIL® REG 1102 WACKER SILICA SPHERICA P-1500 JGC CATALYSTS & CHEMICALS SYNTHETIC FLUOR- PHLOGOPITE SYNAFIL®S115 ECKART KAOLIN KAOLIN SUPREME LOREAL DECONTAM IMERYS PARAFFIN (et) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (et) SYNTHETIC WAX / PARAFFIN (et) CERA MICRO-CRISTALLINA (et) SYNTHETIC WAX PARACERA® 30540 PARAMELT HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE PARLEAM® NOF CORPORATION POLYETHYLENE PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLYETHYLENE NUCERA SOLUTIONS DIMETHICONE BELSIL® DM 100 WACKER TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE BELSIL® TMS 803 WACKER DIMETHICONE (et) DL METHICONE CROSSPOLYMER MÉLANGE ÉLASTOMÈRE DE SILICONE DOWSIL™ DOW EL-9241 DM
[0164]
[0165] Examples of the invention 1 to 2 and Comparative examples 1 to 4 Lipsticks according to the present invention (Ev.) 1 and 2 and comparative lipsticks (Ev.) 1 to 4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as percentages by weight of each substance, unless otherwise indicated):
[0166] [Tables2] INCI ELI EC. 1 EI.2 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 IRON OXIDES 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 2,14 6,00 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 4,00 4,00 4,00 4,00 2,86 8,00 OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 7,08 STEARYL HEPTANOATE 2,8 2,8 2,8 2,8 2,8 2,8 STEARYL CAPRYLATE 1,26 1,26 1,26 1,26 1,26 1,26 PARAFFIN (et) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (et) SYNTHETIC WAX / PARAFFIN (et) CERA MICROCRISTALLIN A (et) SYNTHETIC WAX 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 1,00 KAOLIN 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 1,25 SILICA 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 0,00 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE 0,50 1,50 1,00 1,00 3,00 0,00 SILICA SILYLATE 1,00 0,00 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 Qs pour 100 POLYETHYLENE 11,0 0 11,0 0 11,0 0 11,0 0 11,0 0 11,0 0 SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 4,50 DIMETHICONE 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 7,00 DIMETHICONE (et) DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 10,0 0 10,0 0 10,0 0 0,00 10,0 0 10,0 0 CROSSPOLYMER* TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER** 15.2 0 15.2 0 15.2 0 25.2 0 15.2 0 15.2 0
[0167] DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYLTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER*: ~16% by weight of DL METHICONE / DIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE CROSSPOLYMER in ~84% by weight of DIMETHICONE.
[0168] DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER**: -16-17% by weight of DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER in -83-84% of DL METHICONE.
[0169] The compositions of inventive examples 1 and 2 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0170] The lipstick in comparative example 1 does not include at least one first filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g.
[0171] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include at least one silicone elastomer resin.
[0172] The lipsticks of comparative example 3 and comparative example 4 do not comprise more than 5% by weight and less than 14% by weight of at least one pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] Preparation procedure:
[0174] The detailed procedure for preparing the above lipsticks is as follows:
[0175] i) mix all ingredients under 95-100 °C with stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture;
[0176] ii) pour the homogeneous mixture into a lipstick mold at 98°C, leave the mixture in the mold at less than 25°C until solidified; and
[0177] iii) unmold the lipsticks obtained from the lipstick mold. Evaluation
[0178] An evaluation of the matte effect, color uniformity and blurring effect provided by the lipsticks was carried out.
[0179] The matte effect was evaluated by 6 experts as follows.
[0180] First, the lipsticks of the inventive examples and the comparative examples were applied repeatedly, respectively, three times on the same area of the lips using the same force; the area was illuminated with a D65 light and the level of light reflection (gloss) was checked after 5 minutes of application.
[0181] Grades were then awarded as follows.
[0182] 4.1-5.0: low gloss;
[0183] 3.1-4.0: low to medium brightness;
[0184] 3.0: medium brightness;
[0185] 2.0-2.9: medium to high brightness;
[0186] 1.0-1.9: high brightness.
[0187] Color uniformity and blurring effect were evaluated by 6 experts as follows.
[0188] First, the compositions according to the inventive examples and the comparative examples were repeatedly applied to the left side of the forearm using the same force to draw a 4 cm line; then the line was stretched from the left side to the right side about 8 times to fill the 4 cm*4 cm area with the fingers. The color change of the area was then observed to evaluate the blurring effect and the uniformity of the area (the presence of any aggregation or uneven distribution of color) was observed.
[0189] Grades were then awarded as follows.
[0190] 4.1-5.0: very good;
[0191] 3.1-4.0: generally good;
[0192] 3.0: acceptable;
[0193] 2.0-2.9: slightly poor and unacceptable;
[0194] 1.0-1.9: mediocre, unacceptable.
[0195] The average scores for matte effect, color uniformity and blurring effect provided by the lipsticks of the inventive examples and comparative examples have been summarized in Table 3.
[0196] [Tables3] Attributes ELI EC.l EI.2 EC.2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Matte effect 4.7 2.1 4.5 4.5 4.1 2.2 Color uniformity 4.3 4.1 4.2 2.3 3.3 4.3 Blur effect 4.5 3.5 4.6 2.5 2.0 2.4
[0197] It can be seen that the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the invention demonstrated a good combination of matte effect, color uniformity and soft focus effect upon application, while the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 4 are not good in terms of at least one of matte effect, color uniformity and soft focus effect.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratinous materials, comprising: a) at least one silicone elastomer resin; b) at least one first filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g of oil / 100 g; c) at least one second filler having an oil absorption capacity of 40-140 g of oil / 100 g, and d) more than 5% by weight and less than 14% by weight of at least one pigment, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer resin comprises at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate group, preferably the silicone elastomer resin is selected from vinyldimethyl / trimethylsiloxysilicate stearyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone / vinyl trimethylsiloxysilicate crosslinked polymer, and mixtures thereof.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the first filler having an oil absorption capacity of at least 300 g oil / 100 g is selected from hydrophobically modified amorphous silicas, preferably selected from silica silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, silica cetyl silylate and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silica silylate aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit weight (SW) of from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) of from 5 to 15 pm.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the second filler having an oil absorption capacity of 40 to 140 g oil / 100 g is selected from mineral fillers, preferably selected from silica, kaolin, clay, bentone, hydrophobically treated fumed silica particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from silica, kaolin and mixtures thereof.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the pigment is present in an amount ranging from 6% by weight to 13% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 12% by weight, more pre- preferably from 6% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 6.5% by weight to 9% by weight, most preferably from 6.5% by weight to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising one or more waxes, preferably selected from polyethylene wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, Cera Microcristallina, C20-40 alkyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising one or more oils, preferably selected from silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils and mixtures thereof;more preferably selected from organopolysiloxanes optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, hydrogenated polyisobutene, esters of linear or branched saturated C2-C10 aliphatic monobasics and linear or branched saturated C10-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 20, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from dimethicone, hydrogenated polyisobutene, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof, preferably the oil is present in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.;
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising one or more sugar esters, preferably selected from C1-C30 sugar monoesters and polyesters, more preferably selected from C2-C6 carboxylic acid esters, in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate, preferably in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 15% by weight and more preferably from 3% by weight to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is anhydrous.
10. Non-therapeutic process for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials tineuses comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.
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