KERATINOUS MATERIAL CARE COMPOSITION
A stable cosmetic composition using specific surfactants and polyhydroxyacids addresses the instability issue in existing products, effectively providing skin with radiance and softness.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023014349
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-11-13
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-18
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-16
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-18
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products that aim to provide skin with optical effects such as radiance and softness are often unstable, failing to meet consumer demands for long-lasting benefits.
A cosmetic composition comprising at least a first surfactant from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, a second surfactant with an HLB > 10, and at least one polyhydroxyacid, which provides stability and optical benefits to keratinous materials like skin.
The composition effectively provides skin with radiance and softness while maintaining stability, as demonstrated by its transparency and resistance to phase separation under testing conditions.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Consumers worldwide are looking for new cosmetic products to improve the appearance of keratinous materials and in particular the skin, in particular by providing the skin with an optical cosmetic effect, such as softness and good radiance.
[0003] Cosmetic products capable of providing the above-mentioned optical effects to the skin are known, for example, anti-aging water in the cosmetic industry, which is a technological permeation system combined with a gentle exfoliating engine to meet the needs of consumers in terms of radiance and softness.
[0004] However, some products for providing skin radiance and softness are still not satisfactory. For example, some products are not stable.
[0005] It is desirable that such cosmetic compositions be stable.
[0006] Thus, there is still a need to formulate a composition for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which can provide the keratinous materials, in particular the skin, with radiance and softness and which is stable. Summary of the invention
[0007] The object of the present invention is to develop a composition for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which can provide keratinous materials, in particular the skin, with radiance and softness and which is stable.
[0008] The present invention also aims to provide a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, with the above compositions.
[0009] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate a composition for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which can provide the keratinous materials, in particular the skin, with shine and softness and which is stable.
[0010] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, comprising:
[0011] (i) at least one first surfactant chosen from poly- fatty acid esters glycerol, polyoxyalkylene esters of polyol fatty acids and a combination thereof; and
[0012] (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB >10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0013] (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid.
[0014] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention can be used to care for keratinous materials, in particular to give them shine and softness.
[0015] The inventors have further discovered that the composition according to the present invention is stable.
[0016] In certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is transparent.
[0017] As used herein, the term "transparent" means that the turbidity of the composition is less than 10 NTU.
[0018] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.
[0019] Other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0020] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in the specification have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this specification conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0021] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".
[0022] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0023] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features is not present (i.e. “consisting of”).
[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is particularly considered according to the present invention.
[0025] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0027] (i) at least one first surfactant chosen from poly- fatty acid esters glycerol, polyoxyalkylene esters of polyol fatty acids and a combination thereof; and
[0028] (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and
[0029] (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid or one of its salts. First surfactants
[0030] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one first surfactant selected from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters, and one of their combinations. Polyglycerol fatty acid esters
[0031] Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester (also called poly-glycerol fatty acid ester, PGFE) is chosen from the compounds of formula (I),
[0032] in which:
[0033] R represents a linear or branched C5-C30 alkyl or alkenyl;
[0034] n is an integer ranging from 2 to 30.
[0035] Preferably, for the purposes of the present invention, in formula (I),
[0036] R represents a linear or branched C8-C28 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably a linear or branched C10-C22 alkyl or alkenyl;
[0037] n is an integer ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 4 to 10.
[0038] Examples of suitable PGFE surfactants are polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 dilaurate, poly-glyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dimyristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, poly-glyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 dilaurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, poly-glyceryl-5 trimyristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate or polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-5 diole ... polyglyceryl-5, polyglyceryl-6 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 distearate.
[0039] In particular, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters suitable for the present invention are compounds selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate or a combination thereof.
[0040] More particularly, the polyglycerol fatty acid esters are chosen from polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and a combination thereof.
[0041] These compounds are commercially available. For example, compounds sold by Taiyo Kagaku under the trade names: SunSoft A-12E or Sunsoft A-121E-C (Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate), SunSoft A-14E (Polyglyceryl-5 Myristate), Sunsoft Q-17F (Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate), Sunsoft A-17E (Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate), Sunsoft A-18E (Polyglyceryl-5 Stearate), Sunsoft Q-10Y (Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate), Sunsoft Q-12Y (Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate), Sunsoft Q-14S (Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate), Sunsoft Q-18Y (Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate), by Nikkol under the trade name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV (Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate), by Lonza under the trade name Polyaldo HGDS KFG (6-2-S) (polyglyceryl-6 distearate).
[0042] In certain particular preferred embodiments, polyglyceryl-5 laurate is used in the composition of the present invention.
[0043] Where appropriate, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyoxyalkylenated esters of polyol fatty acids
[0044] As used herein, a polyoxyalkylene polyol fatty acid ester is an ester of a polyol and at least one fatty acid wherein the ester has at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety.
[0045] The polyoxyalkylene fraction may comprise oxyethylene units, oxypropylene units, oxybutylene units and mixtures thereof.
[0046] It is preferable that the polyoxyalkylene moiety comprises oxyethylene units, more preferably 5 or more oxyethylene groups, and even more preferably 7 or more oxyethylene groups. It is also preferable that the polyoxyalkylene moiety does not comprise any oxypropylene or oxybutylene units. Thus, the polyoxyalkylene ester of polyol fatty acid may preferably be a poly- oxyethylenated polyol fatty acid.
[0047] The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.
[0048] Preferably, the polyol is a C2-C12 polyol, more preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups and preferably 2 to 6 hydroxy groups.
[0049] The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.
[0050] The polyol may be selected from glycerin and its derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, di-glycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and 1,5-pentanediol.
[0051] It is preferable that the polyol is glycerin.
[0052] The fatty acid may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.
[0053] Preferably, the fatty acid is chosen from saturated C8-C28 fatty acids, preferably C8-C22 fatty acids and more preferably, C10-C22 fatty acids. As examples of saturated C8-C28 fatty acids, mention may be made of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, as well as their structural isomers.
[0054] Examples of the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester include, but are not limited to, oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of polyols comprising at least 5 oxyethylenated groups, which may comprise up to 40 oxyethylenated groups, in particular oxyethylenated esters of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and glycerol, for example PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
[0055] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester may be selected from POE (polyoxyethylenated) glyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably from the group consisting of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and combinations thereof.
[0056] In certain particular preferred embodiments, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate is used in the composition of the present invention.
[0057] Where appropriate, the polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] Advantageously, the first surfactant is chosen from polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid, preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated C8-C28 fatty acid esters of C2-C9 polyol, more preferably polyoxyethylenated C10-C22 fatty acid esters of glyceryl, more preferably chosen from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and combinations thereof.
[0059] Advantageously, the first surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Second surfactants
[0060] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0061] As used herein, HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is the ratio of the hydrophilic portion to the lipophilic portion in the surfactant molecule. This term is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System, A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection," published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the present invention can be determined via the Griffin method or the Davies method.
[0062] Preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl glucosides and glycolipids. Alkoxylated fatty alcohols
[0063] Alkoxylated fatty alcohols, which are ethers formed from the reaction of a fatty alcohol with an alkylene oxide, generally ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, for example, ethoxylated fatty alcohols which are adducts of fatty alcohols and polyethylene oxide.
[0064] Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, preferably ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols, more preferably ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units.
[0065] Specific examples of ethoxylated / propoxylated fatty alcohols that may be suitable for use in the present invention include PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteth-1, PPG-1-Ceteth-5, PPG-1-Ceteth-10, PPG-1-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Ceteth-1, PPG-2-Ceteth-5, PPG-2-Ceteth-10, PPG-2-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Cététh-20, PPG-8-Cététh-l, PPG-8-Cététh-2, PPG-8-Cététh-5, PPG-8-Cététh-10, PPG-8-Cététh-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Paréth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Paréth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-6 C9-11 Pareth-5, PPG-6 C12-15 Pareth-12, PPG-6 C12-18 Pareth-11, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-l-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50,PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDéceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDéceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDéceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDéceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDéceth-10, PPG-12-Lanéth-50, PPG-2-Lauréth-5, PPG-2-Lauréth-8, PPG-2-Lauréth-12, PPG-3-Lauréth-8, PPG-3-Lauréth-9, PPG-3-Lauréth-10, PPG-3-Lauréth-12, PPG-4 Lauréth-2, PPG-4 Lauréth-5, PPG-4 Lauréth-7, PPG-4-Lauréth-15, PPG-5-Lauréth-5, PPG-6-Lauréth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-20-PEG-20 Hydrogenated Lanolin, PPG-2-PEG-11 Hydrogenated Lauryl Alcohol Ether, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-65 Lanolin Oil, PPG-40-PEG-60 Lanolin Oil, PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, PPG-3-PEG-6 Oleyl Ether,PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6 and PPG-6 TriDeceth-8.
[0066] More preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteareth-1, PPG-1-Ceteareth-5, PPG-1-Ceteareth-10, PPG-1-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Ceteareth-1, PPG-2-Ceteareth-5, PPG-2-Ceteareth-10, PPG-2-Ceteareth-20, PPG-4-Ceteareth-1, PPG-4-Ceteareth-5, PPG-4-Ceteareth-10, PPG-4-Ceteareth-20, PPG-5-Ceteareth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-l, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-l-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG- 2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-12-Laureth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6,PPG-26-Buteth-26 and PPG-6 TriDeceth-8. ,
[0067] In certain particular preferred embodiments, PPG-5-Ceteth-20 is used in the composition of the present invention.
[0068] Where appropriate, the alkoxylated fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl glycoside
[0069] The alkyl glycoside is a compound of formula (A)
[0070] RrO- (R2Q)t- (G)v (A)
[0071] in which R, represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms or an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
[0072] Preferably, the alkyl glycoside is a C8-C24 alkyl glycoside.
[0073] More preferably, the alkyl glycoside is a C8-C22 alkyl glycoside.
[0074] More preferably still, the alkyl glycoside is lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, sucrose glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and a combination thereof.
[0075] Optionally, the alkyl glycoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycolipids
[0076] Preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, glucolipids and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Rhamnolipids can be represented by the general formula (I):
[0078] where
[0079] a is worth 1 or 2,
[0080] b is 1 or 2,
[0081] n is from 4 to 10, preferably 6,
[0082] R1 is H or a cation, preferably H or a monovalent solubilizing cation,
[0083] R2 is H or the group o CH3(CH?>™CH = CH ” x lu *
[0084] preferably H,
[0085] m is from 4 to 10, and
[0086] the values of m and n do not necessarily have to be the same at each occurrence.
[0087] Glucolipids can be represented by the general formula (II):
[0088] where
[0089] R1 is H or a cation,
[0090] p is from 1 to 4; and
[0091] q is from 4 to 10, preferably 6.
[0092] Where appropriate, the glycolipid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] Preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, C8-24 alkyl glycoside and a combination thereof; preferably selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units, C8-22 alkyl glycoside and a combination thereof; more preferably chosen from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteareth-1, PPG-1-Ceteareth-5, PPG-1-Ceteareth-10, PPG-1-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Ceteareth-1, PPG-2-Ceteareth-5, PPG-2-Ceteareth-10, PPG-2-Ceteareth-20, PPG-4-Ceteareth-1, PPG-4-Ceteareth-5, PPG-4-Ceteareth-10, PPG-4-Ceteareth-20, PPG-5-Ceteareth-20, PPG-8-Ceteareth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6, PPG-1-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9,PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-12-Lauréth-50, PPG-2-Lauréth-5, PPG-2-Lauréth-8, PPG-2-Lauréth-12, PPG-3-Lauréth-8, PPG-3-Lauréth-9, PPG-3-Lauréth-10, PPG-3-Lauréth-12, PPG-4 Lauréth-2, PPG-4 Lauréth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-6 TriDeceth-8, Lauryl Glucoside, Octyl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside, Sucrose Laurate, Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside and a combination thereof.
[0094] More preferably, the second surfactant is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols; preferably chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units; more preferably chosen from PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26 and one of their combinations.
[0095] Advantageously, the second surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.4% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Preferably, the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant ranges from 0.4 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5. Polyhydroxy acids
[0097] According to the first aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyhydroxy acid.
[0098] The term "polyhydroxy acid" herein refers to an organic compound which has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxy groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.
[0099] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be selected from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids. It is preferable that the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is selected from sugar acids.
[0100] Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0101] It is preferable that the polyhydroxy acid is in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the form of a lactone may be saturated. Examples of the polyhydroxy acid include gluconolactone, ribonolactone and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
[0103] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0104] It is more preferable that the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone, which has the following structure.
[0105] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0106] The composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
[0107] Said aqueous phase comprises water.
[0108] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 60% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 80% by weight to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0109] Optionally, the aqueous phase comprises a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature to 25°C) chosen from ethanol, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydration effect.
[0110] Optionally, the water-miscible organic solvent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients
[0111] The composition of the present invention may comprise an active ingredient additional cosmetic.
[0112] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; vitamins and their derivatives; firming agents; agents acting on microcirculation, additional exfoliating agents and mixtures thereof.
[0113] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the intended addition. Additional adjuvants or additives
[0114] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, other surfactants, preservatives, perfumes and mixtures thereof.
[0115] A person skilled in the art can choose the nature and quantity of the additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0116] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0117] (i) from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one first surfactant chosen from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, combinations thereof;
[0118] (ii) from 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one second surfactant chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units; and
[0119] (ii) from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of gluconolactone. Dosage form and process
[0120] In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of a homogeneous water system.
[0121] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials, in particular the skin.
[0122] According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials, in particular the skin. EXAMPLES
[0123] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.
[0124] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.
[0125] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier PPG-5-cététh-20 GENAPOL® EP 6205 MB CLARIANT Glyceryl cocoate PEG-7 CETIOL® HE BASF Gluconolactone GLUCONO-DELTA-LACTONE F5010 PERSONAL CAR JUNGBUNZLAUER Salicylic acid AMIPRESERVETM ALBAN MULLER (CRODA)
[0126] Inventive Examples 1 and 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3
[0127] The compositions of inventive examples (EI) 1 to 3 and comparative examples (CE) 1 to 3 were prepared on the basis of the quantities provided in Table 2. The quantities are given in % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] [Tables2] Components El. 1 EL 2 EI.3 EC.l EC. 2 EC.3 PPG-5-ceteth-20 0.4 0.5 1.0 0 0.1 0.2 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Gluconolactone 2 2 2 2 2 2 Lactic Acid 3 3 3 3 3 3 Salicylic Acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Pentylene Glycol 3 3 3 3 3 3 Sodium Hydroxide pH = pH = pH = pH = pH = pH = 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Water QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO QslOO
[0129] The compositions of inventive examples 1 to 3 are compositions according to the present invention.
[0130] The composition of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 does not comprise at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with HLB >10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] Preparation process:
[0132] The compositions listed above were prepared in the following manner, in taking as an example the composition of inventive example 1:
[0133] 1) mix PPG-5-ceteth-20, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, gluconolactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid and pentylene glycol in water,
[0134] 2) neutralize with sodium hydroxide and shake well until a uniform composition. Assessment Turbidity
[0135] Whether a composition is transparent or not is determined by its turbidity as determined using a turbidimeter (Model: HACH 2100AN).
[0136] When the turbidity of a composition is not greater than 10 NTU, the composition is classified as transparent. Stability
[0137] The stability of a test composition was evaluated as follows:
[0138] The composition was introduced into a cosmetic bottle, then placed in an oven at 45°C for 2 months.
[0139] It was then checked whether it exhibited phase separation.
[0140] In the absence of phase separation during the test, the composition is considered as stable.
[0141] In the presence of phase separation during the test, the composition is considered unstable.
[0142] The transparency and stability of the compositions of Inventive Examples (EI) 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 3 have been summarized in Table 3.
[0143] [Tables3] EL 1 EI.2 EI.3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 Turbidity 0.5 0.5 0.5 99.4 27.4 11.6 Transparent Yes Yes Yes No No No Stability Stable Stable Stable Unstable Unstable Unstable
[0144] It can be seen that the composition of the present invention is stable.
[0145] Through consumer testing, it was also found that the com position of the present invention can bring radiance and softness to the skin.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, preferably for caring for keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one first surfactant chosen from polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated polyol fatty acid esters and one of their combinations; and (ii) at least 0.4% by weight of at least one second surfactant with an HLB > 10, which is different from the first surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one polyhydroxy acid.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the first surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylenated esters of polyol fatty acids, preferably selected from polyoxyalkylenated esters of C8-C28 fatty acids of C2-C9 polyol, more preferably polyoxyethylenated esters of C10-C22 fatty acids of glyceryl, even more preferably selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and combinations thereof.
3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the second surfactant is selected from alkoxylated fatty alcohol, alkyl glycoside, glycolipid and a combination thereof, preferably the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols, C8-24 alkyl glycoside and a combination thereof; more preferably, the second surfactant is selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units, C8-22 alkyl glycoside and a combination thereof;more preferably chosen from PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-1-Ceteareth-1, PPG-1-Ceteareth-5, PPG-1-Ceteareth-10, PPG-1-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Ceteareth-1, PPG-2-Ceteareth-5, PPG-2-Ceteareth-10, PPG-2-Ceteareth-20, PPG-4-Ceteareth-1, PPG-4-Ceteareth-5, PPG-4-Ceteareth-10, PPG-4-Ceteareth-20, PPG-5-Ceteareth-20, PPG-8-Ceteareth-1, PPG-8-Cététh-2, PPG-8-Cététh-5, PPG-8-Cététh-10, PPG-8-Cététh-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Paréth-8, PPG-2 C12-15 Paréth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Paréth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Paréth-6, PPG-l-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5, PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-; 2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12, PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30, PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-12, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-20, PPG-6-DecyltetraDeceth-30, PPG-13-DecyltetraDeceth-24, PPG-20-DecyltetraDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-4, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-6, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-8, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-9, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-12, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-18, PPG-2-IsoDeceth-25, PPG-4-IsoDeceth-10, PPG-12-Laureth-50, PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12, PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10, PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4 Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3, PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3, PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 TriDeceth-6, PPG-4 TriDeceth-6, PPG-26-Butéth-26,PPG-6 TriDeceth-8, Lauryl Glucoside, Octyl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside, Sucrose Laurate, Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, and a combination thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the second surfactant is chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C3-C28 fatty alcohols; preferably chosen from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units; more preferably chosen from PPG-4-Ceth-20, PPG-5-Ceth-20, PPG-26-Buteth-26 and one of their combinations.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the weight ratio of the first surfactant to the second surfactant is from 0.4 to 2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.
5.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from aliphatic polyhydroxy acids and aromatic polyhydroxy acids, preferably chosen from lactones with 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and 3 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.
7. Composition according to claim 1, comprising in an aqueous phase, relative to the total weight of the composition:
8.
9.
10. (i) from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one first surfactant selected from PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-8 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, combinations thereof; (ii) from 0.4% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one second surfactant selected from ethoxylated / propoxylated C4-C22 fatty alcohols with 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and 1 to 50 propylene oxide units; and (ii) from 1.5% by weight to 5% by weight of gluconolactone. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition is in the form of a homogeneous water system. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is transparent. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials.