Cosmetic composition and cosmetic treatment, particularly for black and mixed-race skin

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least shikimic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, vitamin C or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and hyaluronic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, as well as a cosmetic treatment method for black or mixed-race skin using such a composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition and cosmetic treatment, in particular for black and mixed-race skin

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition combining at least four active ingredients, the combination of which can be used in cosmetic products, in different forms, intended for the care of the skin, face and body. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment of the skin using such a composition.

[0002] In a preferred implementation of the invention, the cosmetic compositions described below are intended for the care of black skin, as well as for the care of mixed-race skin.

[0003] The skin is made up of three layers, the epidermis on the surface, the dermis and the hypodermis which is the deepest layer. The epidermis itself has four layers, the stratum corneum which is the outermost layer, the granular layer, the Malpighian layer or spinous layer and the basal layer in contact with the dermis. The epidermis is the place of renewal of the keratinocytes in which these cells are transformed as they move from the basal layer to the stratum corneum. The basal layer contains the melanocytes; they produce the melanin which enters the keratinocytes, either spontaneously for colored skin, or in response to stimulation by the sun's rays for light skin. The intensity of the pigmentation of black and mixed-race skin protects them against UV rays and thus against cancers, even if this protection is not complete, a certain proportion of UV rays reaching the deep layers of the epidermis.These skin types also have a denser stratum corneum and a thicker dermis, facilitating cell renewal, which makes them less susceptible to skin aging. On the other hand, in order to ensure perspiration and therefore a reduction in body temperature in hot climates, these skins become extremely dehydrated and are therefore much more prone to dryness, even in a dry and temperate climate. In addition, black and mixed-race skin are particularly affected by the appearance of unsightly brown spots, resulting from an overproduction of melanin under the action of various factors such as an insect bite or irritation.

[0004] Black and mixed-race skin has specific needs to which conventional cosmetic compositions do not provide a comprehensive response. They mainly aim to moisturize the skin or whiten brown spots, but do not take into account the requirements of black and mixed-race skin as a whole.

[0005] This is the objective that the present invention aims at by providing a composition cosmetics dedicated to black and mixed-race skin, in that it allows, under the combined action of four active ingredients, to respond to all of their problems by taking into account all of their physiological specificities.

[0006] Thus, an object of the invention lies in a cosmetic composition comprising an active base of at least four ingredients. A composition of the invention comprises at least shikimic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, vitamin C or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and hyaluronic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives.

[0007] Unexpectedly, it was observed that the combination of these four compounds made it possible to relieve the tightness of dry skin resulting in particular from dehydration, while improving its status from dehydrated to less dehydrated by regular application, but also to reduce hyperpigmentation spots without danger or irritation of the skin.

[0008] By cosmetically equivalent derivative of shikimic acid is meant a cosmetically acceptable compound which, in a composition of the invention, has the same properties as shikimic acid, these properties being able to be quantitatively lower or higher. Its derivatives are in particular chosen from its mineral and organic salts. It can be derived from a plant such as star anise.

[0009] By cosmetically equivalent derivative of vitamin C or ascorbic acid is meant a cosmetically acceptable compound which, in a composition of the invention, has the same properties as vitamin C, these properties being able to be quantitatively lower or higher. Vitamin C being unstable, these derivatives consist essentially of protected forms of vitamin C. Such derivatives are in particular chosen from mineral salts of ascorbic acid such as metal salts and for example calcium, magnesium, sodium salts; salts of mineral esters of ascorbic acid such as metal salts of the phosphoric ester of ascorbic acid and for example sodium, magnesium salts; organic esters of ascorbic acid and for example ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate); ascorbyl glucoside; 3-O-ethyl ascorbate.

[0010] By cosmetically equivalent derivative of hyaluronic acid is meant the mineral salts of hyaluronic acid, in particular the metallic salts such as the sodium salts, and the esters of hyaluronic acid such as hyaluronic acid acetate.

[0011] By alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide or gluco-oligosaccharide is meant a glucose oligomer having from 2 to 20 glucose units, preferably from 2 to 10 glucose units, said units being linked together by a glucosidic bond of alpha-(l-6) and / or alpha-(l-2) type. It is commercially available for example under the brand Bioecolia®. It is a prebiotic.

[0012] For each of the aforementioned ingredients, a composition of the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, or even more, of a said ingredient and one of its derivatives, or of its derivatives.

[0013] In this text, the contents of the ingredients are expressed as a percentage by mass of said ingredients relative to the mass of the final composition (% m / m). The values ​​indicated take into account each of the ingredients as well as their replacement by a derivative as defined above.

[0014] According to variants of the invention, combined with each other or not, the contents of each of the aforementioned ingredients are as follows:

[0015] the content of shikimic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.1 to 2% (m / m), preferably from 0.2 to 1.6% (m / m);

[0016] the content of vitamin C or its derivative ranges from 0.05 to 2% (m / m), preferably from 0.08-1.6% (m / m);

[0017] the alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide content ranges from 0.05 to 1.5% (m / m), preferably from 0.08-1% (m / m);

[0018] the content of hyaluronic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.005 to 0.5% (m / m), preferably from 0.01-0.3% (m / m).

[0019] These contents were determined as a compromise between effectiveness and stability of the composition. Indeed, these compositions are rich in active ingredients and their formulation can be complex.

[0020] The combination of the four aforementioned ingredients constitutes an active base for cosmetic compositions which can be formulated in different preparations, and in particular embodiments of the invention, they are chosen from a serum, a cream and a milk.

[0021] Advantageously, it is a serum and it comprises 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.1-0.6% (m / m) of an alpha-glucan oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (m / m) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. For practicality, this serum is preferably in a gelled form and for this purpose, it comprises a gelling agent, for example a xanthan gum.

[0022] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is a cream and it comprises 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (m / m) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (m / m) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

[0023] According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the composition is a milk and it comprises 0.3-1.5% (m / m) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (m / m) of an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (m / m) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

[0024] A cream and a milk of the invention advantageously comprise a fatty phase in a high content. In a cream, it can reach 25% (m / m) or even more, in a milk, it is of the order of 10% (m / m) and can go up to 20% (m / m) and beyond.

[0025] The different galenic forms of a composition of the invention as described above are supplemented by excipients and additives known to those skilled in the art. Examples of a serum, a cream and a milk of the invention are given by way of illustration in the rest of the text.

[0026] Another subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of black or mixed-race skin, which comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition of the invention to the skin. To be effective and take into account all the specificities of this type of skin, the composition of the invention is applied regularly, preferably daily.

[0027] Example 1: Preparation of a serum according to the invention

[0028] The formulation of the illustrated serum is shown below:

[0029] Water 89.49

[0030] Glycerin 6.00

[0031] Xanthan gum 1.10

[0032] Ascorbyl glucoside 1.00

[0033] Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (Microcare® SB) 0.80

[0034] Shikimic acid 0.80

[0035] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide (Bioecolia®) 0.30

[0036] Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Water, Diisopropyl Adipate and Triethyl Citrate (Natpure® Sol Crystal) 0.20

[0037] Citric acid 0.18

[0038] Perfume 0.10

[0039] Sodium hyaluronate 0.03

[0040] The serum thus prepared is in the form of a gel and is almost transparent.

[0041] Example 2: Preparation of a facial cream according to the invention

[0042] The formulation of the illustrated face cream is shown below:

[0043] Water 65.82

[0044] Refined coconut oil 6.00

[0045] Shea Butter (Lipex® Shea) 6.00

[0046] Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Myritol 318) 5.00

[0047] Coco-Caprylate / Caprate (Cetiol LC) 4,00

[0048] Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68) 3,70

[0049] Huile d’olive hydrogénée 2,00

[0050] Myristyl Alcohol & myristyl Glucoside (Montanov 14) 1,20

[0051] Ascorbyle glucoside 1,00

[0052] Glycérine 1,00

[0053] Acide shikimique 1,00

[0054] Gomme de xanthane 1,10

[0055] Benzoate de sodium et sorbate de potassium (Euxyl K 712) 0,80

[0056] Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0,80

[0057] Mica & Titanium Dioxide & Tin Oxide 0,50

[0058] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide (Bioecolia®) 0,30

[0059] Soude 0,30

[0060] Parfum 0,25

[0061] Gomme de xanthane 0,20

[0062] Tocophérol 0,05

[0063] Phytate de sodium 0,05

[0064] Hyaluronate de sodium 0,03

[0065] Example 3: Preparation of a body milk according to the invention

[0066] The formulation of the body milk illustrated is shown below:

[0067] Water 69.33

[0068] Glycerin 6.00

[0069] Refined coconut oil 5.00

[0070] Shea Butter (Lipex® Shea) 5.00

[0071] Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (Myritol 318) 5.00

[0072] Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68) 3.10

[0073] C10-18 Triglycerides (Lipocere A SG) 2.00

[0074] Myristyl Alcohol & myristyl Glucoside (Montanov 14) 1.20

[0075] Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (Euxyl K 712) 0.80

[0076] Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

[0077] (Sepinov EMT 10) 0.60

[0078] Perfume 0.50

[0079] Shikimic acid 0.40

[0080] Alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide (Bioecolia®) 0.30

[0081] Soda 0.24

[0082] Ascorbyl glucoside 0.20

[0083] Xanthan gum 0.20

[0084] Tocopherol 0.05

[0085] Sodium phytate 0.05

[0086] Sodium hyaluronate 0.03

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least shikimic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, vitamin C or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives, an alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide, and hyaluronic acid or one of its cosmetically equivalent derivatives.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of shikimic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.1 to 2% (m / m).

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the content of vitamin C or its derivative ranges from 0.05 to 2% (m / m).

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the alpha-glucan-oligosaccharide content ranges from 0.05 to 1.5% (m / m).

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the content of hyaluronic acid or its derivative ranges from 0.005 to 0.5% (m / m).

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in a form chosen from a serum, a cream and a milk.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, which is a serum and which comprises 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (w / w) of ascorbyl glucoside, 0.1-0.6% (w / w) of an alpha-glucan oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (w / w) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is a cream and which comprises 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (m / m) of an alpha-glucan oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (m / m) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is a milk and which comprises 0.3-1.5% (m / m) of shikimic acid, 0.5-1.5% (m / m) of vitamin C, 0.1-0.6% (m / m) of an alpha-glucan oligosaccharide and 0.01-0.1% (m / m) of a sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

10. Method for the cosmetic treatment of black or mixed-race skin, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.