COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ALKYD-POLY(ALKYL)ACRYLATE COPOLYMER, PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN MATERIALS USING THE COMPOSITION
The use of alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymers in a cosmetic composition addresses the challenge of achieving a stable, resistant film on keratin materials, while ensuring the stability and effectiveness of cosmetic active ingredients.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023013507
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-04
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-06
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ALKYD-POLY(ALKYL)ACRYLATE COPOLYMER, METHOD FOR TREATING KERATIN MATERIALS USING THE COMPOSITION
[0001] The present invention relates to novel alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymers i), a process for their preparation, a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least one alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i), a process for treating keratin materials, in particular human materials such as skin or hair, implementing the application to said materials of at least one alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i) or of a composition comprising at least one alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i). Technical field
[0002] Cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials having good cosmetic properties. In particular, it is necessary for the film-forming deposit to have good hold, in particular that the deposit does not transfer when in contact with fingers or clothing, as well as good hold in contact with water, in particular rain or when showering, or that the deposit is insensitive to perspiration or sebum, as well as to food fats, in particular food fats such as oils.
[0003] It is known to use alkyd resins modified with acrylic units and a thin film primer coating agent of inorganic materials (EP 3 428 206). Also known are polyesters modified with acrylic groups prepared by grafting acrylate monomer onto a polyester-type prepolymer (see e.g. US 2021 / 130524 and WO 2018 / 111854). Neither of these documents describes the use of this type of material in cosmetics.
[0004] Furthermore, document WO 2010 / 046229 describes dispersions in isododecane of acrylic polymers stabilized by stabilizing polymers.
[0005] Document FR 1 362 795 describes the use of a dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles containing hydrocarbon oils for lip and eyelash makeup. There are dispersions of polymer particles stabilized by at least one stabilizing agent which is a homopolymer of C8 alkyl (meth)acrylate or a copolymer of C8 alkyl (meth)acrylate (2-ethylhexyl) and C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate. These dispersions are not always satisfactory in terms of resistance to fatty substances and sebum, which can be a barrier to their use. in lip makeup for example (FR 3 029 786). In addition, some of these dispersions may have a feel that is considered too “sticky” after application to keratin materials and may be prohibitive for certain applications such as lip or eyelash makeup.
[0006] However, these documents do not describe the incorporation of alkyd into their polymer.
[0007] The use of alkyd resins is mainly known in the field of industrial paints. Alkyds have also been used in cosmetics, particularly in makeup and nail polish (see, for example, FR 2 879920 A1, US 2006 / 0140702).
[0008] Certain alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) are particularly interesting because they have structures comprising more than 50% renewable carbon. Such alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylates are also potentially biodegradable. However, for cosmetic applications, it is necessary to be able to transport these polymers in a fatty substance, in particular in a liquid hydrocarbon medium at 25°C and 1 atmosphere, such as isododecane. In addition, the compositions must remain stable over time, even after several months of storage, at a temperature such as 20°C.
[0009] In the field of coloring keratin materials, it is known to color keratin fibers by different techniques using direct dyes for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings, or using pigments when it comes to making up keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair. However, the resistance of dyes and / or pigments, particularly with respect to external aggressions, water, shampoo, and / or sebum and oils, is not always satisfactory over time.
[0010] In terms of solubility, the polymers of the prior art are not always satisfactory in terms of solubility in fatty substances, in particular in liquid fatty substances such as oils, in particular at a temperature between 5°C and 25°C.
[0011] It is also of interest to provide a simple-to-use method implementing a cosmetic composition which can also integrate one or more cosmetic active ingredients, in particular optionally comprising one or more UV filters, and / or one or more coloring materials such as pigments or direct dyes. It would also be of interest for the cosmetic composition to be stable for storage, in particular for several months at a temperature such as 20°C.
[0012] Another aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular skin, preferably human skin, and more preferably facial skin, which is adhesive and if possible non-sticky, exhibiting good resistance to external aggressions, and over time, does not bleed, is resistant to sweat and sebum, and is insensitive to oils such as edible oils. In addition, the composition may include cosmetic active ingredients such as those for obtaining a tightening effect on the skin, body, face and hair care, Ultra-Violet (UV) protection, makeup for the face, lips, and eyelashes, eyebrows, and hair. Said composition may be intended in particular for care and / or makeup, in particular lip makeup.
[0013] Another aim of the present invention is to provide a composition for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is adhesive and, if possible, non-sticky, exhibiting good resistance to external aggressions, and over time, does not bleed. When the composition comprises one or more pigment(s) and / or dye(s), the colors remain permanent, in particular in terms of chromaticity, even after several washes. Such a hair composition could further comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as coloring materials, UV filters, keratin fiber care active ingredients, without this being able to alter the stability of the formula and / or the properties of said cosmetic active ingredients.
[0014] It is further sought to obtain polymeric materials which, once applied to the substrate, have elastic, flexible mechanical resistance properties, and which can conform to the surface and which, once applied and the substrate is stretched or in movement, do not visually streak in a "peel" effect. It would be interesting if said materials could be sufficiently affined with the substrate so that they do not detach from the substrate easily.
[0015] These technical problems have been solved by the use of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular a) keratin fibres, in particular human fibres such as hair, eyelashes and / or eyebrows or |3) human skin, in particular the lips, which comprises:
[0016] i) one or more alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) resulting from the polycondensation of:
[0017] a) one or more organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH and / or at least one anhydride group -C(O)-OC(O)-; and
[0018] b) one or more organic polyol(s); and
[0019] c) one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) comprising an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, said acid(s) being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl group(s), preferably said acid(s) are not substituted; and
[0020] d) optionally one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) different from c), particularly organic monocarboxylic acid(s) comprising a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain; and
[0021] e) one or more monomer(s) chosen from:
[0022] el) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl; preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8 -C22)alkyl, and
[0023] e2) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl; preferably (meth)acrylate (C3-C12) cycloalkyl; and
[0024] f) optionally one or more monomer(s) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl; and
[0025] ii) optionally one or more hydrocarbon fatty bodies, preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, more preferably the hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) is (are) chosen from volatile oils; and
[0026] iii) optionally one or more organic solvent(s) different from b); and
[0027] iv) optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredients chosen from g) the dyes, h) pigments; i) active ingredients for the care of keratin materials, particularly skin care, j) UV filters (A) and / or (B), or k) mixtures of g) to j), preferably chosen from g) dyes and h) pigments, better still pigments h).
[0028] More particularly, the subject of the invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human materials such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, or skin, preferably for coloring keratin fibers and / or shaping keratin fibers such as hair, or for making up the skin or for skin care.
[0029] The invention also relates to the preferably cosmetic composition as defined above.
[0030] Another subject of the invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising one or more alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) i) as defined above, and iv) one or more active agents as defined above, preferably chosen from g) dyes and h) pigments, better still pigments h), and optionally one or more fatty substances ii) as defined above, in particular chosen from volatile oils, and optionally one or more organic solvent(s) different from b)
[0031] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin materials, preferably a) keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or |3) human skin, in particular the lips, comprising the application to said materials of the composition as defined above.
[0032] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin materials, preferably a) keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or |3) human skin, in particular the lips, comprising the application to said materials of at least one composition, as defined above.
[0033] The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular a) keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows or |3) human skin, in particular the lips, comprising the application to said materials of at least one composition, for skin care and / or skin makeup.
[0034] The invention also relates to the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) resulting from the polycondensation of: a), and b), and c), and e) and optionally d) and optionally f), with a) to f) as defined previously.
[0035] Furthermore, after application of the composition to keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, after shaping, the shape of the fibers remains even after several shampoos. Furthermore, after application of the composition to keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, when the composition comprises one or more dyes and / or pigments, the coloring on said materials is permanent, in particular with respect to oils, water, sebum.
[0036] The composition and the method for treating keratin materials as defined above make it possible to obtain a treatment of said materials which is resistant in particular to shampoos, sebum, sweat, and / or water but also to fatty substances, in particular food-grade fatty substances such as oils. In addition, the composition is easy to implement in compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, is easy to manufacture and remains stable over time. Indeed, the composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain deposits of polymeric materials on the substrate which are very resistant to external aggressions, in particular sebum and fatty substances found in food, in particular liquid fatty substances such as vegetable oils and in particular olive oil. It appears that the makeup produced with at least one composition, in particular lip makeup, is very resistant to external aggressions such as liquid fatty substances, in particular vs.vegetable oils such as olive oil. In addition, the makeups obtained with the composition of the invention are very aesthetic and shiny. These compositions of polymer particles are found at a high dry matter content in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii). It appears that the application of the compositions of the invention to keratin fibers makes it possible to obtain coatings that are resistant to external aggressions (water, shampoos, perspiration, sebum, etc.).
[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0038] - a “polyol” designates an organic hydrocarbon compound comprising 2 to 100 carbon atoms better 2 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated cyclic or even aromatic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated, containing at least two hydroxy -OH, preferably 2 to 6 hydroxy, said compound possibly further comprising one or several heteroatoms chosen from O, S, N, preferably, said heteroatom(s) being able to be intercalated in the chain and / or in the cycle(s) (in particular ether function); particularly by polyol is meant diols (2 hydroxy functions), triols (three hydroxy functions). Tetraols (four hydroxy functions), pentols (5 hydroxy functions) and hexols (6 hydroxy functions);
[0039] - a “(C8-C22)alkyl” radical is a saturated C8-C22 hydrocarbon group, in particular particular Cio-C2o, preferably Ci2-Ci8, more preferably Ci2-Ci6j linear or branched, preferably linear, such as lauryl (Ci2), myristyl (CM), hexadecyl (Ci6), stearyl (Ci8), arachidyl (C2o), behenyl (C22); more particularly (C8-C18)alkyl is a linear or branched, preferably linear, C8-C18 saturated hydrocarbon group;
[0040] - a “(CrC4)alkyl” radical is a saturated hydrocarbon group in Cr4, in par particular in linear or branched form, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl;
[0041] - a “(meth)acrylate” designates an acrylate or a methacrylate;
[0042] - an “alkylene radical” is a divalent CrC8 saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, in particular C1-C6, preferably C1-C4 such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
[0043] - a “cycloalkyl” radical is a saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 cycles, preferably 2 cycles, and comprising from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, the cycloalkyl radical possibly being substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is an isobornyl group.
[0044] - a “cyclic” radical is a cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 1 ring, and comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms such as cyclohexyl or phenyl;
[0045] - an “aryl” radical is an unsaturated aromatic cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, mono or bicyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 cycle and has 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl;
[0046] - by "keratin materials" we mean particularly the skin (keratin epithelium) ratinized) and human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair;
[0047] - by “individualized” keratin fibers we mean keratin fibers in particular hair which, after application of the composition and drying, is not stuck together (or is all separated from each other) and therefore does not form clumps of fibers;
[0048] - by “ethylenic homopolymer” we mean a polymer resulting from the polymerization of identical monomers;
[0049] - by “ethylenic copolymer” we mean a polymer resulting from the polymerization of different monomers, in particular at least 2 different monomers. Preferably the ethylenic copolymer of the invention is derived from 2 or 3 different monomers, more preferably from 2 different monomers;
[0050] - by “ethylenic monomer” we mean an organic compound comprising one or several unsaturations of type >C=C<, conjugated or not, capable of polymerizing;
[0051] - by "fatty body" is meant an organic compound immiscible in water ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, ethanol, ether, vaseline oil or decamethyl cyclopenta-siloxane. These fatty substances are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids because salified fatty acids constitute soaps which are generally soluble in aqueous media;
[0052] - by “liquid” fatty substance, we mean in particular a fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C and 1 atmosphere, preferably said fatty substance has a viscosity less than or equal to 7000 centipoises at 20°C;
[0053] - by “hydrocarbon” fatty body we mean a fatty body which comprises at least 50 % by weight, in particular from 50 to 100% by weight, for example from 60 to 99% by weight, or from 65 to 95% by weight, or even from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said fatty body, of carbon compound, having an overall solubility parameter according to the HANSEN solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa)l / 2, or of a mixture of such compounds;
[0054] - The global solubility parameter ô according to the HANSEN solubility space is defined in the article "Solubility parameter values" by Grulke, in the work "Polymer Handbook" 3rd edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559 by the relation ô = ( dD2 + dP2 + dH 2)1 / 2 in which: - dD characterizes the LONDON composition forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks, - dP characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles, - dH characterizes the specific interaction forces (type hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967);
[0055] - by "oil" we mean a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature at room temperature ambient (25°C) and atmospheric pressure;
[0056] - by "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups;
[0057] - by “volatile oil” is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporate on contact with keratin materials, in particular the skin, in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg);
[0058] - by "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil having a vapor pressure in less than 0.13 Pa at room temperature and atmospheric pressure;
[0059] - by “silicone oil” we mean an oil comprising at least one atom of silicon, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The silicone oil may be volatile or non-volatile;
[0060] - by “dispersing agent” we mean a compound which makes it possible to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed; in particular, they can attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersing agents also have at least one functional group compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. Said agent may be charged, it may be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or neutral;
[0061] - by “pigment” we mean all pigments providing color to materials keratinous, of synthetic or natural origin, the solubility of the pigments in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%;
[0062] - by “lake” we mean dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine
[0063] - by "dyes" we mean oxidation dyes, and direct dyes used to color material fibers, especially human fibers such as skin or hair.
[0064] - by “anhydrous” dispersion or composition we mean a composition or com position containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular free of water; where appropriate, such small quantities of water may in particular be provided by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual quantities thereof;
[0065] - by "special effect pigments" is meant pigments which create in a way generally a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) that is not uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to colored pigments which provide a classic uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent tint; and
[0066] - the “aryl” radical can be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom, chosen from:
[0067] * a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0068] * halogen;
[0069] * hydroxyl;
[0070] * C1-C2 alkoxy;
[0071] * (poly)-hydroxy C2-C4 alkoxy;
[0072] * amino;
[0073] * an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in CrC4,
[0074] * acylamino (-NR-C(O)-R') in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0075] * carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the radicals R, identical or not, re have a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0076] * alkylsulfonylamino (R'-S(O)2-N(R)-) in which the radical R represents an atom of hydrogen, a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0077] * an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-S(O)2-) in which the radicals R, identical or no, represent a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl radical;
[0078] * carboxylic acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or not);
[0079] * cyano;
[0080] * nitro or nitroso;
[0081] * polyhaloalkyl, preferably trifluoromethyl;
[0082] * alkylcarbonylamino (RC(O)-N(R')-) in which the radical R' is an atom hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one group hydroxyl and the radical R is a C1-C2 alkyl radical, amino optionally substituted by one or two identical or different C1-C4 alkyl groups;
[0083] * alkylcarbonyloxy (RC(O)-O-) in which the radical R is a C 1 - alkyl radical C4, amino group optionally substituted by one or two identical or different CrC4 alkyl groups;
[0084] * alkoxycarbonyl (RGC(O)-) in which the radical R is a C 1 - alkoxy radical C4, G is an oxygen atom, or an amino group optionally substituted by a CrC4 alkyl group;
[0085] - a cyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of an aryl radical may also be substituted by one or more oxo groups;
[0086] - a hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds, preferably one or more conjugated or unconjugated double bonds;
[0087] - a hydrocarbon chain is saturated when it does not contain any unsaturation,
[0088] Said hydrocarbon chain may be linear or branched, and may comprise a cyclic group (if referred to as "cyclic") which interrupts said hydrocarbon chain;
[0089] - by “aryl” we mean a mono or polycyclic carbon group, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one cycle is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, an-thracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl;
[0090] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”; and
[0091] - the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”; and
[0092] the expression "inclusive" for a range of concentrations means that the limits of the range are part of the defined interval;
[0093] The composition
[0094] The composition of the invention comprises one or more alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate(s) i) copolymers.
[0095] The alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) i)
[0096] The alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer according to the invention is preferably obtained from an alkyd, resulting from the polycondensation of a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously and below, followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e) chosen from e1), e2) and their mixtures. Preferably, the ingredients a), b), c) and optionally d) are biosourced.
[0097] The alkyd contains at least one unsaturation, preferably ethylenic (derived from or ingredients c) and possibly ingredient(s) a) and / or b), and possibly d)).
[0098] The alkyd is produced from the condensation between the following ingredients a), b), c) and possibly d):
[0099] a) one or more organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH and / or at least one anhydride group -C(O)-OC(O)-; and
[0100] b) one or more organic polyol(s); and
[0101] c) one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) comprising an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, said acid(s) being optionally substituted by a hydroxy radical, preferably said acid(s) is / are not substituted by a hydroxy group; and
[0102] d) optionally one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) different from c); particularly organic monocarboxylic acid(s) comprising a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.
[0103] The organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxylic or carboxylate groups and / or at least one anhydride group a)
[0104] According to one embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from polycarboxylic acids, acyclic, linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated, and / or cyclic polycarboxylic acids, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, said polycarboxylic acid(s) comprising at least 2 carboxy -C(O)-OH groups, in particular 2 to 4 -C(O)-OH groups.
[0105] According to a particular embodiment, the polycarboxylic acid(s) is / are cyclic, it comprises at least one cycle, preferably hydrocarbon-based, comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, such as cyclohexyl, the cycle being able to be intercalated in one or more linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chains, preferably linear and / or saturated, comprising from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, it being understood that the cycle(s) and / or the hydrocarbon-based chain(s) carry(s) several carboxy groups, preferably the hydrocarbon-based chain(s) carry(s) the carboxy groups (preferably 2 carboxy groups).
[0106] Said polycarboxylic acid(s) a) is (are) in particular chosen from polycarboxylic acids comprising at least one linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, acyclic hydrocarbon chain comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 18, and even better 4 to 14 carbon atoms, or even 5 to 12 carbon atoms; said acid(s) comprises at least two -C(O)-OH carboxylic groups, preferably 2 to 4 -C(O)-OH groups.
[0107] Preferably, said polycarboxylic acid(s) a) is / are saturated, linear hydrocarbon and comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or is monocyclic or bicyclic, particularly monocyclic, preferably aromatic, and comprises 5 to 10 carbon atoms, such as phenyl. It / they preferably comprises 2 to 4 -C(O)-OH groups.
[0108] More particularly a) is (are) chosen from al) aromatic acids comprising 2 to 4 carboxy groups, preferably 2 carboxy groups on a phenyl group, more particularly located in ortho, meta or para, preferably in ortho or para, more preferentially in ortho such as homophthalic acid and / or a2) linear or branched, saturated polycarboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 2 carboxy groups such as sebacic acid.
[0109] According to another embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from (poly)anhydrides. In particular, the compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from the (poly)anhydride hydrocarbon compounds of formula RC(O)-OC(O)-R'-[C(O)-OC(O)R”]P with p representing an integer greater than or equal to 1, R, and R” identical or different, representing a monovalent, linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, hydrocarbon chain comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 18, and even better 4 to 14 carbon atoms, or even 5 to 12 carbon atoms and in which R' represents a divalent, linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic, hydrocarbon chain comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 18, and even better 4 to 14 carbon atoms, or even 5 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0110] According to another embodiment of the invention, the compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from the (poly)anhydrides of formulae (I) or (II) below: [YES] [Chem.l]:
[0112]
[0113] Formulas (I) or (II) in which the radicals A and B are identical or different and represent:
[0114] - a hydrogen atom,
[0115] - a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic hydrocarbon radical, and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic; comprising 1 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular methyl or ethyl;
[0116] - or the radicals A and B form together with the carbon atoms which carry a cycle comprising a total of 5 to 7, in particular 6 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, or even aromatic.
[0117] Preferably, A and B represent a hydrogen atom or together with the carbon atoms which carry them form an aromatic cycle comprising 6 carbon atoms.
[0118] Among the said polycarboxylic acid(s) a), capable of being used, there may be mentioned, alone or in a mixture:
[0119] - dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, homophthalic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, PRIPOL 1009:
[0120] [Chem.2]:
[0121] I prefer homophthalic acid;
[0122] - tricarboxylic acids such as cyclohexanetricarboxylic acid, tri mellitic, 1,2,3-benzenetricarboxylic acid, 1,3,5-benzenetricarboxylic acid;
[0123] - tetracarboxylic acids such as butanetetracarboxylic acid and py- romellitic;
[0124] - the cyclic anhydrides of these acids and in particular phthalic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride, maleic anhydride and succinic anhydride.
[0125] According to one embodiment, a single compound a) is used.
[0126] According to another embodiment, several compounds a) are used, preferably 2 to 5 compounds a), more preferably a mixture of two compounds a).
[0127] Preferably, the compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from adipic acid, sebacic acid, homophthalic acid and even better from sebacic acid, homophthalic acid.
[0128] The compound(s) a) preferably represent between 5% and 60% by weight, in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, better still between 15% and 40% by weight, and even better still between 20% and 30% of the total weight of the final alkyd (derived from the condensation of ingredients a), b) c) and optionally d)).
[0129] The compound(s) a) particularly represent(s) from 0.5% to 55% by weight, more particularly 1% to 45% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 25%, even better still from 10% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) i) according to the invention.
[0130] The organic polyol(s) b)
[0131] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) b) comprises 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH), in particular 3 to 4 hydroxyl groups. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such polyols.
[0132] Said organic polyol(s) b) is (are) carbon-based, in particular hydrocarbon-based, acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and / or monocyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 4 to 14, or even 5 to 10 carbon atoms, and at least 3 hydroxyl groups, preferably 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, and may further comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, N, preferably, said heteroatom(s) may be intercalated in the chain and / or in the cycle(s) (in particular ether function).
[0133] According to one embodiment, the organic polyol(s) b) do not comprise a cycle.
[0134] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic polyol(s) b) is (are) saturated.
[0135] Said organic polyol(s) b) is (are) preferably saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 4 to 12, or even 5 to 10 carbon atoms, and at least 3 hydroxy groups, preferably 3 to 6 hydroxy groups, more preferably 3 to 4 hydroxy groups.
[0136] A single polyol b) can be used. It is also possible to use a mixture of at least two polyols b), preferably 2 to 5 polyols b), more preferably 2 or 3 polyols b), even better 2 polyols b).
[0137] The organic polyol(s) b) is (are) preferably chosen from:
[0138] - triols, such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol;
[0139] - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol, erythritol, diglycerol or ditrimethyl- lolpropane.
[0140] - pentols such as xylitol:
[0141] - hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol or dipentaerythritol or tri- glycerol.
[0142] Preferably, the polyol(s) b) of the invention is (are) chosen from glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and their mixtures and even better is pentaerythritol.
[0143] The organic polyol(s), b) i.e. the mixture of organic polyols, preferably represents 5% to 50% by weight, in particular 7% to 40% by weight, and better still 10% to 35% by weight, of the total weight of the copolymer(s) of the final alkyd (derived from the condensation of ingredients a), b), c) and optionally d)).
[0144] The organic polyol(s), b) i.e. the mixture of organic polyols preferably represent 0.5% to 45% by weight, in particular 0.6% to 35% by weight, and better still 1% to 30% by weight, even better still 5% to 25% by weight of the total weight of the polyalkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) according to the invention.
[0145] The organic monocarboxylic acid(s) with unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c)
[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) comprise at least one unsaturated, linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, said hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms, and possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group.
[0147] More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid(s) with an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprise at least one linear, or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, comprising 7 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 28 carbon atoms and even better 10 to 24, or even 12 to 20, carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon chain possibly being substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0148] It is of course possible to use a mixture of such monocarboxylic acids.
[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) c) are not substituted.
[0150] According to one embodiment, the monocarboxylic acid(s) c) do not comprise one or more ethylenic bond(s).
[0151] Preferably, the compound(s) c) are not substituted.
[0152] Preferably, the monocarboxylic acid(s) c) comprise 1 to 5 ethylenic double bonds, preferably 1, 2 or 3 ethylenic double bonds.
[0153] By "monocarboxylic acid with an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain" is preferably meant a compound of the following formula (III), as well as its geometric isomers (Z / E or cis / trans) Ra-C(O)-OH (III), formula (III) in which Ra is an unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 6 to 31 carbon atoms, in particular 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and even better 9 to 23 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 19 carbon atoms, said radical possibly being substituted by a hydroxy group. Preferably, the radical Ra is a linear or branched, unsubstituted, and preferably C6-C3i, or even C8-C2i, unsaturated hydrocarbon chain.
[0154] According to one embodiment, Ra represents a (C6-C3i)alkenyl group, particularly (C7-C27)alkenyl, more particularly (C9-C23)alkenyl, better still (Cn-Ci9)alkenyl, even better still (Ci3-Ci7)alkenyl, more preferably the alkenyl group is linear and comprises from 1 to 5 unsaturations (preferably 1 to 3 double bonds, more preferably one double bond).
[0155] As organic monocarboxylic acid(s) with unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c), preference is given to unsaturated fatty acids of natural origin and more preferably of plant origin, monounsaturated, diunsaturated or triunsaturated, in particular omega-3, omega-6, omega-9 and omega-12 monocarboxylic acids. The acid(s) c) is (are) preferably derived from vegetable oils extracted from various plants such as sunflower, rapeseed, castor oil, lesquerella, olive, soybean, palm, coriander, Celery, dill, carrot, fennel, Limnanthes Alba (meadowfoam), hemp seed oil, black currant.
[0156] Among the monocarboxylic acid(s) with unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c) capable of being used in the invention, there may be mentioned, alone or as a mixture:
[0157] - monounsaturated monocarboxylic acids chosen from caproleic acid (cis-9-decenoic), obtusilic acid (cis-4-decenoic), decenoic acid (or 9-decenoic acid), undecylenic acid (or 10-undecenoic acid), dode-cylenic acid, linderic acid (cis-4-decenoic), mystolic acid (cis-9-tetradecenoic), physeteric acid (cis-5-tetradecenoic), tsuzuic acid (cis-4-tetradecenoic), palmitoleic acid (9Z-hexadecenoic acid or trans-9-hexadecenoic acid, or C16:l oleic acid (7 9Z-octadecenoic acid, or C18:l œ-9), petroselenic acid (cis-6-octadecenoic), vaccenic acid (cis-ll-octadecenoic), elaidic acid (trans-9-octadecenoic, C18:1, œcoenoic acid-19), IZ-eicosenoic, or C20:l œ-9 - also called gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucastic acid) erucic acid (13Z -docosaenoic acid, or C22:l œ-9), ketoleic acid (13Z-docosaenoic acid, or C22:l œ-9), ketoleic acid (13Z-docosaenoic acid, or C22:l œ-9), neuronic acid (15Z-tetracosaenoic acid, or C24:l œ-9), and
[0158] - polyunsaturated monocarboxylic acids chosen from linoleic acid (acid 9Z,12Z-octadecadienoic acid, or C18:2 œ-6), linolenic acid a-linolenic acid (9Z,12Z,15Z-octadecatrienoic acid, or C18:3 œ-3), y-linolenic acid (6Z,9 Z,12Z-octadecatrienoic acid, or Cl8:3 œ-6), dihomo-y-linolenic acid (8Z,llZ,14Z-eicosatrienoic acid, or C20:3 œ-6) and arachidonic acid (5Z,8Z,11 Z,14Z-eicosatetraenoic acid, or C20:4 œ-6), eicosapentaenoic acid (5Z,8Z,11Z,14Z-eicosatetraenoic acid, or C20:4 œ-6) 5Z,8Z,llZ,14Z,17Z-eicosapentaenoic, or C20:5 œ-3), acid docosahexaenoic acid (4Z,7Z,10Z,13Z,16Z,19Z-docosahexaenoic acid, or C22:6 œ-3) stearidonic acid ((6Z,9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-6,9,12,15-tetraenoic acid), as well as monounsaturated fatty acids C18:1, and C18:2 and optionally C18:3 (preferably mixtures of oleic acid C18:1, linoleic acid C18:2, linolenic acid C18:3), and mixtures thereof such as those sold under the trade name:
[0159] - NOURACID DE402 (marketed by OLEON) comprising 1) fatty acids monounsaturated fatty acids in Cl8:1 particularly in a weight quantity of 13% -23%, 2) monounsaturated fatty acids in C18:2 particularly in a weight quantity of 40-50%, 3) monounsaturated fatty acids C18:3 particularly in a weight quantity of 0-3%, 4) conjugated unsaturated fatty acids particularly in a weight quantity of 22-27%, 5) saturated fatty acids with a carbon number less than or equal to Cl8 particularly 6-12%, 6) saturated fatty acids with a carbon number greater than or equal to 20 particularly in a quantity of 0-2%,
[0160] - NOURACID DE 656 (marketed by OLEON) comprising 1) fatty acids unsaturated fatty acids in C18:1, particularly in an amount of 5 - 8%, 2) unsaturated fatty acids C18:2, particularly in an amount of 22 - 29%, 3) unsaturated fatty acids C18:3, particularly in an amount of 0 - 1%; 4) conjugated unsaturated fatty acids, particularly in an amount by weight of 60 - 65%, 5) saturated fatty acids with a carbon number less than or equal to Cl8, particularly 2-5%, 6) saturated fatty acids with a carbon number greater than or equal to 20, particularly in an amount of 0 - 1%,
[0161] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) with unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c) is (are) chosen from monounsaturated acids, more particularly chosen from:
[0162] 1. Cio acids, in particular obtusilic (cis-4-decenoic) and ca- proleic (cis-9-decenoic),
[0163] 2. Ci2 acids, in particular lauroleic (cis-5-dodecenoic) acids and linderic (cis-4-dodecenoic),
[0164] 3. C14 acids, in particular myristoleic (cis-9-tetradecenoic) and phy- seteric (cis-5-tetradecenoic) and tsuzuic (cis-4-tetradecenoic),
[0165] 4. C16 acids, in particular palmitoleic acid (cis-9-hexadecenoic),
[0166] 5. C18 acids, in particular oleic acids (cis-9-octadecenoic, C18:1, co- 9), elaidic (trans-9-octadecenoic, C18:1, co-9), petroselinic (cis-6-octadecenoic), and vaccenic (cis-11-octadecenoic)
[0167] 6. C2o acids, gadoleic (cis-9-eicosenoic), gondoic acids (cis-ll-eicosenoic), and cis-5-eicosenoic acid,
[0168] 7. C22 acids, ketoleic (cis-11-docosenoic) and erucic acids (cis-13-docosenoic),
[0169] 8. and mixtures of 1 to 7.
[0170] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) with an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c), is (are) chosen from polyunsaturated acids, more particularly di or tri-unsaturated, in particular chosen from:
[0171] 1. C[8] acids, such as linoleic acid (9Z,12Z-octadecadienoic acid, or C18:2 co-6), linolenic acid ie α-linolenic acid (9Z,12Z,15Z -octadecatrienoic acid, or C18:3 co-3), γ-linolenic acid (6Z,9Z,12Z -octadecatrienoic acid, or C18:3 co-6),
[0172] 2. C20 acids, such as dihomo-y-linolenic acid (acid 8Z,llZ,14Z-eicosatrienoic, or C20:3 co-6) and arachidonic acid (5Z,8Z,11 Z,14Z-eicosatetraenoic acid, or C20:4 co-6), eicosapentaenoic acid (5Z,8Z,llZ,14Z,17Z-eicosapentaenoic acid, or C20:5 co-3),
[0173] 3. C22 acids, such as docosahexaenoic acid (acid 4Z,7Z,10Z,13Z,16Z,19Z-docosahexaenoic acid, or C22:6 œ-3) and stearidonic acid ((6Z,9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-6,9,12,15-tetraenoic acid) and
[0174] 4. mixtures of 1. to 3.
[0175] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) with unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c) is (are) a mixture of mono- and polyunsaturated (di- or tri-unsaturated) acids, preferably C18.
[0176] Preferably, as monocarboxylic acid(s) c) one or more C[8] monocarboxylic acid(s) i.e. comprising an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain Ra with 17 carbon atoms, comprising from 1 to 3 unsaturations, such as oleic acid, elaidic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or mixtures thereof such as those marketed under the reference NOURACID DE402 (OLEON), NOURACID DE 656 (OLEON) and in particular C18:1 oleic acid, C18:2 linoleic acid, C18:3 linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] Said unsaturated monocarboxylic acid(s) c) particularly represent from 5% to 60% by weight, in particular 7% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 35% by weight, of the total weight of the final alkyd (resulting from the condensation of ingredients a), and b) and c) and optionally d)).
[0178] Said unsaturated monocarboxylic acid c), or the mixture of said acids c), preferably represents 0.5% to 55% by weight, in particular 0.7% to 45% by weight, more particularly 1% to 32% by weight, better still 5 to 25%, and better still 7% to 20% of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i) according to the invention.
[0179] The organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) differ from c)
[0180] According to one embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymers i) according to the invention do not comprise an organic monocarboxylic acid different from c).
[0181] According to a preferred embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymers i) according to the invention comprise d) one or more organic monocarboxylic acids different from c).
[0182] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) other than c) comprise(s) a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, preferably the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly (Ci-C24)alkyl.
[0183] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) other than c) comprise(s) a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, in C1-C30, more preferably in C4-C23, better still in C5-C22, even better still in C6-C20.
[0184] More particularly, the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) different from c) is (are) chosen from saturated monocarboxylic acids such as caproic or hexanoic acid (C6), isoheptanoic acid (C7), 4-ethylpentanoic acid (C7), octanoic acid (C8), isooctanoic acid (C8), caprylic acid (C8), 2-ethylhexanoic acid (C8), 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid (C8), 2-heptylheptanoic acid (C7), nonanoic acid (C9), isononanoic acid (C9), 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid (C9), decanoic acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), tridecanoic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid (Cl8), isostearic acid (Cl8), acid arachidic (C20), behenic acid (C22).
[0185] Preferably the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) other than c) is (are) chosen from natural fatty acids.
[0186] Preferably, isoheptanoic acid (C7), octanoic acid (C8), nonanoic acid (C9), isononanoic acid (C9), lauric acid (Cl2), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), isostearic acid (C18), stearic acid (C18), behenic acid (C22) and mixtures thereof are used, and even better octanoic acid.
[0187] Said organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) different from c), or mixtures thereof, preferably represent(s) 5% to 70% by weight, in particular 10% to 60% by weight and better still 15% to 50% by weight, of the total weight of the final alkyd (resulting from the condensation of ingredients a), b) c) and d).
[0188] The said organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) different from c) represent from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular 15% to 60% by weight and better still 20% to 50% by weight, of the total weight of the final alkyd (resulting from the condensation of ingredients a), b), c) and d).
[0189] Said organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) other than c), or mixtures thereof, preferably represent(s) 0.5% to 65% by weight, in particular 1% to 55% by weight and better still 1.5% to 45% by weight, even better still 5% to 25% by weight of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) according to the invention.
[0190] The sum of the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) different from c) (mixture) preferably represents 5% to 50% by weight, in particular 10% to 40% by weight and better still 15% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i) according to the invention.
[0191] The sum in mass quantity of the saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acid(s) preferably represents 40% to 75% by weight, in particular 44% to 70% by weight and better still 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i) according to the invention.
[0192] According to one embodiment, the mass quantity of unsaturated organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) is greater than the mass quantity of saturated organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) when they are in a mixture.
[0193] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the quantity mass quantity of saturated organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) is greater than the quantity of unsaturated carboxylic acid(s) c) when they are mixed.
[0194] The monomer(s) e)
[0195] The alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer according to the invention is preferably obtained from an alkyd, resulting from the polycondensation of a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e) chosen from el), e2) and their mixtures.
[0196] According to one embodiment, one or more monomers el) and no monomer e2) are used.
[0197] According to one embodiment, one or more monomers e2) and no monomer e1) are used.
[0198] According to one embodiment, one or more monomers el) and one or more monomers e2) are used sequentially or simultaneously, preferably simultaneously.
[0199] The monomer(s) el)
[0200] According to one embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer according to the invention is preferably obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of a), b), c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl.
[0201] Preferably, the monomers el) are chosen from the monomers of the following formula (V): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R'” formula (V) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R'” represents a (C8-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C8-C2o)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer equal to 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R'” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl.
[0202] Preferably the monomer(s) el) is (are) chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl and behenyl (meth)acrylates, more particularly stearyl (meth)acrylate, even more preferably stearyl (meth)acrylate.
[0203] According to one embodiment, the monomers el) are identical.
[0204] According to one embodiment, several different monomers el) are used. such as a mixture of stearyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate in any proportion.
[0205] The monomer(s) e2)
[0206] According to one embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer according to the invention is preferably obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of a), b), c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycon densification of the alkyd with monomers e2) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12) cycloalkyl, preferably (C3-C12) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylate.
[0207] Preferably, the monomers e2) are chosen from the monomers of the following formula (VI):
[0208] H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' ' ' formula (VI) in which R represents an atom hydrogen or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (C5-Cio)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl.
[0209] According to one embodiment, the monomers e2) are identical.
[0210] According to one embodiment, several different monomers e2) are used. such as a mixture of isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate (in all proportions).
[0211] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined above followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e2) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12) cycloalkyl, preferably with (C3-C12) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylates; more particularly with monomers of formula (VI) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” represents a (C5-Ci0)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl, in the absence of monomers e1).
[0212] According to a particular embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with only monomers e2) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12) cycloalkyl, preferably (C3-C12) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylate; more particularly the monomers of formula (VI) as defined previously in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” represents a (C5-Cio)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl.
[0213] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) of the invention is (are) obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl as defined previously; more particularly the monomers of formula (V) as defined previously in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”” represents a group (C 8-C22)alkyl, preferably (C8-C2o)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R'” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl, in the absence of monomers e2).
[0214] According to a particular embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with only monomers e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl as defined previously; more particularly the monomers of formula (V) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (C8-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C8-C20)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer being 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R'” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl.
[0215] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention are obtained from an alkyd resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl as defined previously;more particularly the monomers of formula (V) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R'” represents a (C8-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C8-C20)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer being 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R'” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl and monomers e2) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl, preferably (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylate, more particularly the monomers of formula (VI) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Cr-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a group (C5-Ci0)cycloalkyl such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl.;
[0216] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s) resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined above followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with monomers e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl as defined above; more particularly the monomers of formula (V) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R'” represents a (C8-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C8-C20)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R'” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl and monomers e2) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12) cycloalkyl, preferably (C3-C12) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylate, more particularly the monomers of formula (VI) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (C5-C10)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl, in the absence of other monomers such as f) defined previously and below.
[0217] As examples, mention may be made, for example, of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention which is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s) resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with monomers el) as defined previously and in particular stearyl (meth)acrylate and monomers e2) as defined previously, in particular norbornyl or isobornyl (meth)acrylate, preferably isobornyl.
[0218] The monomer(s) f)
[0219] The alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer according to the invention i) is preferably obtained from one or more alkyd(s), resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with monomers e) chosen from el), e2) and their mixtures as defined previously and optionally with f) one or more (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomers of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (Ci -C4)alkyl.
[0220] Preferably, the monomer(s) f) is (are) chosen from the monomers of the following formula (VII): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” ' formula (V) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (CrC4)alkyl group, preferably R'” represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, more preferably methyl.
[0221] Preferably, the monomer(s) f) is(are) chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl (meth)acrylates, more preferably from methyl (meth)acrylates,
[0222] According to one embodiment, the monomers f) are identical.
[0223] According to one embodiment, several different monomers f) are used.
[0224] According to one embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) i) according to the invention is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s), resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally from compound d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with a or more monomer(s) e) chosen from monomers el) as defined above and optionally with f) one or more monomers (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, more preferably (meth)acrylate of methyl.
[0225] According to another embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) i) according to the invention is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s), resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally compound d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with one or more monomer(s) e) chosen from monomers e2) as defined previously and with f) one or more (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomers of (CrC4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, more preferably methyl (meth)acrylate.
[0226] As examples, mention may be made, for example, of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention obtained from one or more alkyd(s) resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd with monomers e2) norbornyl or isobornyl (meth)acrylate, preferably isobornyl, and monomers f) more preferably methyl (meth)acrylate, even more preferably methyl methacrylate.
[0227] Preferably, when monomers e1), and e2) and f) are used for the preparation of copolymers i), the mass ratio of monomers e2) / monomers e1) is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more preferably greater than 3, better still greater than 4, even better still greater than 5, even better still greater than 6 such as 9.
[0228] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio [monomers e1) +monomers e2)] / monomers f) is greater than 1 such that 2.
[0229] According to another embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s), resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with monomers e1) and monomers e2) as defined previously and with f) one or more (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomers of (CrC4)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably methyl (meth)acrylate.
[0230] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s) resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously followed by the polycondensation of one or more alkyd(s) with monomers e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl as defined previously; more part particularly the monomers of formula (V) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R'” represents a (C8-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C8-C20)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R'” represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl and monomers e2) (C i-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl, preferably (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylate, more particularly the monomers of formula (VI) as defined above in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (C5-Ci0)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl, and f) one or more monomers (C i-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl, more preferably (meth)acrylate of methyl.
[0231] As examples, mention may be made, for example, of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) according to the invention obtained from one or more alkyd(s) resulting from the polycondensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined above followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with monomers e1) stearyl (meth)acrylate and monomers e2) norbornyl or isobornyl (meth)acrylate, preferably isobornyl, and monomers f) more preferably methyl (meth)acrylate, even more preferably methyl methacrylate.
[0232] According to one embodiment, the copolymer(s) i) contain from 0% to 20% by weight of monomers f) relative to the total weight of copolymer i), preferably from 0% to 15% by weight.
[0233] According to one embodiment, the copolymer(s) i) contain from 10% to 70% by weight of monomers e) and optionally f) relative to the total weight of copolymer i), preferably from 20% to 60% by weight such as 30% or 50%.
[0234] Preferably, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate(s) i) has(have) a number-average molecular weight (Mn) of between 1000 and 1,000,000 g / mol, in particular between 5,000 and 500,000 g / mol and even better between 10,000 and 300,000 g / mol.
[0235] The polymer(s) e) preferably has a number-average molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 400,000, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 200,000.
[0236] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity in the composition of monomer(s) e1) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl and e2) of monomer(s) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12)cycloalkyl and optionally of monomer(s) f) (C1-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of C1-C4 alkyl, and their mixtures is between 5% to 60% by weight, in particular 10% to 55%, better still from 15% to 53% by weight, in particular from 20% to 52% by weight, preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymers i) contained in said composition.
[0237] The composition according to the invention leads, after application to keratin materials, to film-forming deposits that are shiny and resistant to fatty substances at room temperature (25°C), which are of particular interest for makeup and / or hair applications.
[0238] The composition according to the invention remains stable even for several months at 20°C.
[0239] Process for the polymerization of the poly(alkyl)acrylate(s) e) and optionally f):
[0240] The polymerization of the monomers e1) and / or e2) and optionally f) to obtain the copolymer(s) i) is (are) preferably carried out in the presence of one or more radical initiator(s) vii) (or radical initiator(s) which may be any initiator known to those skilled in the art for radical polymerization such as peroxidic initiators, azo initiators, oxidation-reduction (redox) couples, and photochemical initiators.
[0241] We can notably cite those of the type:
[0242] - Peroxide in particular chosen from tert-Butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate: Trigonox 21S; 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-di(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)hexane:Trigonox 141; tertbutyl peroxypivalate: Trigonox 25C75 from AkzoNobel; Or
[0243] - Azoic in particular chosen from AIBN: azobisisobutyronitrile; V50: 2,2'-azo-bis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride.
[0244] The polymerization can be carried out at a temperature between 20°C and 120°C, preferably it is carried out at a temperature ranging from 70°C to 110°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0245] Preferably, the monomers e1) and / or e2) and optionally f) are introduced simultaneously.
[0246] Preferably, the condensation is carried out in the presence of an organic solvent such as ethyl acetate.
[0247] Preferably the polymerization is carried out under an inert atmosphere such as argon.
[0248] According to one embodiment, the radical initiator(s) (radical polymerization initiators) is (are) introduced in a fractional manner.
[0249] Process for the preparation of alkyd-poly(alkylacrylate i) copolymer
[0250] Another object of the invention is the process for preparing the copolymers i) comprising
[0251] * a first step in which compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined above are condensed together preferably with heating of the reaction medium preferably without solvent; then
[0252] * a second step which consists of reacting the product obtained in the previous step with the monomers el) and / or e2) and optionally f) in the presence of at least one radical initiator vii) as defined previously and below, preferably with heating the reaction medium preferably in the presence of at least one aprotic solvent; then
[0253] * optionally elimination of the solvent(s) present in the previous step; then
[0254] * optionally addition of at least one polar protic solvent.
[0255] According to a particular embodiment, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) is produced in 2 stages. During the first stage, the compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) are condensed together to form the alkyd, then in a second stage the alkyd is brought into contact with the monomers e1) and / or e2) and optionally f) as defined previously.
[0256] According to an advantageous method of preparation, the following successive steps are carried out:
[0257] - In a first step, the alkyd is prepared by reacting compounds a), b), c) and possibly d) as defined above,
[0258] The first step can be carried out without additional solvent to the reaction medium comprising compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d). Preferably the reaction medium is under an inert atmosphere (argon) optionally with stirring. In particular the reaction medium is heated, preferably to a temperature between 50°C and 250°C, more particularly between 100°C and 240°C, better still between 150°C and 230°C. The heating time is preferably between 30 minutes and 12 hours, particularly from 1 hour to 8 hours.
[0259] - In a 2nd step, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) is prepared by reacting, from preferably by radical route, the alkyd prepared in the first step with the monomers e1) and / or e2) and optionally f) as defined previously.
[0260] The alkyd is added with the monomers e1), and / or e2) and optionally f), in the presence of at least one solvent, particularly a polar (a)protic organic solvent such as ethyl acetate, and all or part vii) of at least one radical initiator as defined above, preferably Trigonox T21S. Preferably the reaction medium is under an inert atmosphere (argon) optionally with stirring. In particular the reaction medium is heated, or maintained at a temperature above 50°C, preferably above 70°C, better between 80°C and 100°C such as 90°C. According to an embodiment vii) at least one radical initiator as defined above, preferably Trigonox 21 is added again to the reaction medium. Preferably, the heating time is between 10 minutes and 12 hours, preferably between 1 hour and 10 hours such as 7 hours.
[0261] One or more polar (a)protic solvent(s) such as ethyl acetate, optionally mixed with one or more liquid fatty substances ii) such as isododecane, may be added to the reaction medium. In particular, the polar (a)protic solvent(s) such as ethyl acetate are then removed by method conventional such as stripping. According to one embodiment, the copolymer i) is obtained in at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one polar protic organic solvent, preferably chosen from (C2-C6)alkanols such as ethanol can be added.
[0262] In the final alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i), the “alkyd” part preferably represents 10% to 90% by weight, in particular 45% to 60% by weight and preferentially from 40% to 55% by weight of the final dry alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i).
[0263] Alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i)
[0264] Another subject of the invention is an alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i).
[0265] Preferably the new alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymers i) are derived from the polycondensation of:
[0266] a) one or more organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH; and / or at least one anhydride group -C(O)-OC(O)-; and
[0267] b) one or more organic polyol(s); and
[0268] c) one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) comprising an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, said acid(s) being optionally substituted by a hydroxy radical; and
[0269] d) optionally one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) different from c); and
[0270] e) one or more monomers chosen from e2) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12) cycloalkyl, preferably (C3-C12) cycloalkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably isobornyl (meth)acrylate and optionally el) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl, preferably (C8-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably stearyl (meth)acrylate; and
[0271] f) optionally one or more monomers (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, more preferably methyl (meth)acrylate.
[0272] Preferably, the new copolymers i) are such that the mass ratio of the compounds [a)+b)+c) + optionally d)] / i) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 1 and 2.5.
[0273] The hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) H)
[0274] The composition according to the invention also comprises ii) one or more hydrocarbon fatty bodies, preferably liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm, or 105 Pa).
[0275] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) is(are) liquid(s) ii). More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is(are) chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular alkanes, oils, in particular oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones; in particular the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) are preferably volatile hydrocarbon oils or are a mixture of different volatile oils, preferably chosen from isododecane and octyldodecanol, more particularly isododecane.
[0276] The liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is (are) in particular chosen from C6-Ci6 hydrocarbons or hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms up to 50 carbon atoms, preferably between C6 and C16, and in particular alkanes, oils, in particular oils of vegetable origin, glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones.
[0277] It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, fatty acid esters more particularly have one or more hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0278] As regards C6-Ci6 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic. For example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, isododecane and their mixtures such as the combination of undecane and tridecane such as for example CETIOL UT®. Linear or branched hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam^.
[0279] Among the liquid hydrocarbon fatty bodies ii) having an overall solubility parameter according to the HANSEN solubility space less than or equal to 20 (Mpa)1 / 2, mention may be made of oils, which may be chosen from natural or synthetic, hydrocarbon oils, possibly branched, alone or as a mixture.
[0280] According to a very advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances which is (are) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s). The hydrocarbon oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0281] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is (are) hydrocarbon oils which are volatile or are a mixture of different volatile oils.
[0282] According to another particular embodiment, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is (are) a mixture of a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil such as an isododecane / octyldodecanol mixture.
[0283] The hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from:
[0284] hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular:
[0285] - branched C8-Ci4 alkanes such as C8-Ci4 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls,
[0286] - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (C 14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and their mixtures.
[0287] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pothnarron, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose; shea butter; or even caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818®,
[0288] - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0289] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ®, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof,
[0290] - esters such as oils of formula R'C(O)-O-R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 3 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate, lactate of 2-octyl-dodecyl; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,
[0291] - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol.
[0292] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, in addition to the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body, a silicone oil. If silicone oil is present in said composition, it is preferably present in an amount which does not exceed 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly in an amount of less than 5% and more preferably 2% relative to the weight of the composition.
[0293] In particular, the composition of the invention comprises at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty body ii) chosen from:
[0294] - vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed oil, macadamia, soybean, sweet almond, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, corn, arara, cottonseed, apricot, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ oil;
[0295] - linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and in particular isononyl isononanoate;
[0296] and more particularly the esters of formula Rd-C(O)-O-Re in which Rd represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and Re represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palmitates, adipates, myristates and benzoates, in particular diisopropyl adipate and isopropyl myristate;
[0297] - hydrocarbons and in particular linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes, volatile or non-volatile, such as C5-C60 isoparaffins, possibly volatile such as isododecane, Parleam (hydrogenated polyisobutene), isohexadecane, cyclohexane, or 'ISOPARs'; or paraffin oils, vaseline oils, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene; in particular isododecane;
[0298] - ethers having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
[0299] - fatty monoalcohols with a hydrocarbon chain having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, hydrocarbon chain not containing a substitution group, such as oleyl alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, octyldodecanol and linoleyl alcohol; in particular octyldodecanol;
[0300] - polyols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol; and
[0301] - their mixtures.
[0302] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises one or more bodies liquid hydrocarbon fatty acid(s) of the invention non-polar i.e. formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0303] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty body ii) apolar, preferably chosen from:
[0304] - linear or branched C8-C30 alkanes, in particular C10-C20, more particu mainly C10-C16, volatile or non-volatile; preferably volatile
[0305] - cyclic, non-aromatic, C5-Ci2 alkanes; volatile or non-volatile; of volatile preference, and
[0306] - their mixtures.
[0307] The liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is (are) preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably volatile, more particularly the apolar oils, described above.
[0308] Among the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) are preferably chosen the branched alkanes in C8-Ci6, in particular in Cw-Cu suitable as liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of:
[0309] - isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetlys;
[0310] - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (C i4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) from the company Cognis, and their mixtures.
[0311] Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) of the invention is (are) apolar, more particularly isododecane.
[0312] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is (are) a mixture of non-volatile oil and volatile oil, preferably the mixture comprises isododecane as volatile oil or a mixture of oil, in particular undecane and tridecane, or isononyl isononanoate or oc-tyldodecanol.
[0313] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises ii) a mixture of non-volatile oil(s) and volatile oil(s), the non-volatile oil(s) being silicone and particularly phenylated, preferably chosen from pentaphenylated silicone oils.
[0314] More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) of the invention is (are) volatile and chosen from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture comprising in particular dodecane, isododecane or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.
[0315] Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) of the invention is (are) isododecane.
[0316] Advantageously, the composition of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, preferably one or more oils, in a content ranging from 2% to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, preferably ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 70%, better still from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0317] The organic solvent(s) different from b)
[0318] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises iii) one or more organic solvent(s) different from b), preferably polar and / or protic.
[0319] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises iii) one or more additional organic solvent(s) different from b), preferably chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, preferably n-butanol or ethanol, even more preferably ethanol.
[0320] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the organic solvent(s) other than b) is / are in an amount of less than 40% by weight, more preferably less than 30% by weight, even more preferably less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0321] The cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv)
[0322] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients iv) chosen from g) colorants, h) pigments; i) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials and j) UV filters (A) and / or (B) as well as k) their mixtures.
[0323] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) of the invention is (are) chosen from h) pigments.
[0324] The pigment(s) represent more particularly from 0.5% to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1% to 20% by weight.
[0325] The pigment(s) are solid particles, white or colored, naturally insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic and lipophilic phases usually used in cosmetics or made insoluble by formulation in the form of a lacquer, where appropriate. More particularly, the pigments are slightly or not at all soluble in hydroalcoholic media.
[0326] The pigment(s) that may be used are in particular chosen from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry. Mention may in particular be made, as pigments, of organic and inorganic pigments such as those defined and described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry “Pigment organics”, 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KgaA, Weinheim 10.1002 / 14356007.a20 371 and ibid, “Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General” 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KgaA, W einheiml0.1002 / 14356007.a20_243.pub 3
[0327] These pigments may be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They may be coated or uncoated. The pigments may, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as pearls or glitter, and mixtures thereof.
[0328] The pigment(s) may be mineral pigments.
[0329] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter.
[0330] Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.
[0331] The pigment(s) may be organic pigments.
[0332] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.
[0333] The organic pigment(s) are in particular chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrro-lopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.
[0334] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments are chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0335] By way of example, mention may also be made of organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: JAUNE COSMENYL IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710); JAUNE COSMENYL G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680); ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105); ROUGE COSMENYL R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085); CARMINE COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490); VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319); BLEU COSMENYL A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160); COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260); COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).
[0336] The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
[0337] The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0338] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0339] Among the colorants, we can cite carminic acid. Also included are dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0340] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0341] The pigments can also be special effect pigments.
[0342] By "special effect pigments" is meant pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changes depending on the observation conditions (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They are thus opposed to "colored pigments" which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
[0343] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.
[0344] Examples of special effect pigments include pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium and in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and an organic pigment as defined above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Pearlescent pigments include Cellini pearlescent pigments marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO 2-lake), Prestige pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze pearlescent pigments marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) and Colorona pearlescent pigments marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO2-Fe2 O3).
[0345] Mention may also be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica);red-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, notably marketed by BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and pinkish-orange, golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.;
[0346] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
[0347] Titanium oxide coated glass substrate particles are notably sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.
[0348] Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). Multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum may also be considered.
[0349] The special effect pigments may also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine.
[0350] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection.
[0351] These particles can have various shapes, in particular being platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical.
[0352] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.
[0353] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.
[0354] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.
[0355] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.
[0356] The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or a me- metal.
[0357] Reflective particles are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
[0358] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.
[0359] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.
[0360] It is also possible to use particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.
[0361] Examples include aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.
[0362] Mention may also be made of interference effect pigments not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), interference holographic flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances that fluoresce in daylight or that produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
[0363] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.
[0364] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 qm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 qm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 qm.
[0365] The pigments may be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.
[0366] The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can attach physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C2o fatty acid and polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750g / mol such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures are used.
[0367] As another dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.
[0368] The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
[0369] Thus, the previously surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanochemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.These organic agents may be chosen, for example, from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicon compounds.
[0370] The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.
[0371] Surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such commercially available.
[0372] Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.
[0373] The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.
[0374] The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0375] Preferably, an organic agent covalently bound to the pigments will be used.
[0376] The surface treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.
[0377] Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments: - a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Dimethicone / Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW; - a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW; - an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an acrylate / Dimethicone and Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate Copolymer treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito; - an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito; - a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment like the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.
[0378] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in the coloring composition.
[0379] According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.
[0380] The dispersing agent(s) may therefore have a silicone backbone, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone dispersants, different from the alkoxysilanes previously described. Suitable dispersing agents include: - amino-silicones, i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers, - silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik, - polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.
[0381] According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes previously described and are cationic.
[0382] Preferably, the pigment(s) is(are) chosen from mineral, mixed mineral-organic or organic pigments.
[0383] In a variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.
[0384] The composition may comprise one or more f) dye(s), in particular one or more direct dye(s).
[0385] By "direct dye" we mean natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes which will diffuse superficially on the fiber.
[0386] They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.
[0387] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures; more preferably red iron oxides, especially iron oxide 3.
[0388] The waterv)
[0389] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is anhydrous, i.e. it comprises a quantity of water less than or equal to 5% by weight of water, preferably less than or equal to 3%, more preferably less than or equal to 1%, better still less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, the composition is free of water.
[0390] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises water v), preferably in an amount greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly the amount of water in the composition is greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly greater than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0391] The alkaline agent(s) vi)
[0392] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition contains one or more alkaline agents. The mineral (or inorganic) alkaline agent(s) or mineral (or inorganic) bases are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides or mixtures thereof.
[0393] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alkaline agent(s) are organic and in particular amines, i.e. they contain at least one substituted (secondary or tertiary amine) or unsubstituted (primary amine) amine group.
[0394] The organic alkaline agent(s) are more preferably chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. If the alkaline agent(s) comprise several amine groups, this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.
[0395] The composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants usually used in the field of cosmetics such as preservatives, nacres, thickening agents, film-forming polymers other than i).
[0396] The composition of the invention can be implemented in the form of a spray, serum, more or less thickened solutions, emulsions.
[0397] The invention also relates to a method for making up the skin, eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying the composition according to the invention comprising iv) one or more cosmetic active ingredients chosen from g) colorants, h) pigments to the skin, eyelashes and eyebrows.
[0398] It also relates to a method for styling hair consisting of applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibers.
[0399] It also relates to a coloring process consisting of applying to keratin fibers such as hair, to the skin, eyelashes or eyebrows the composition according to the invention comprising iv) one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) chosen from g) dyes, h) pigments, eyelashes, eyebrows.
[0400] The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. EXAMPLES
[0401] All percentages of reactants described in the examples are weight percentages.
[0402] Example 1: Synthesis of an Alkyd Polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-methyl methacrylate) in isododecane
[0403] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - polymethacrylate i) is:
[0404] [Tables 1] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd NOURACID DE402 c) 13.3 Octanoic acid d) 23.1 Homophthalic acid a) 16.8 Pentaerythritol b) 16.8 Poly(meth)acrylate Isobornyl methacrylate e2) 20 Methyl methacrylate f) 10
[0405] Step 1: Synthesis of the alkyd
[0406] Quantity of reagents
[0407] [Tables2] Ingredients Mass (g) Homophthalic acid a) 24 Pentaerythritol b) 24 NOURACID DE402 (Cl8 unsaturated) c) 19 Octanoic acid d) 33
[0408] Operating mode
[0409] Homophthalic acid a), pentaerythritol b), and NOURACID DE402 c) and octanoic acid d) are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an inert atmosphere (argon) throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180 °C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230 °C. Synthesis time to obtain the alkyd is approximately 6 hours.
[0410] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-methyl methacrylate) in isododecane i)
[0411] Quantity of reagents
[0412] [Tables3] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 70 Isobornyl methacrylate e2) 20 Methyl methacrylate f) 10 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) vii) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 50 + 50 Isododecane ii) (Step 2 + before Stripping) 50+100
[0413] Operating mode
[0414] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (50 g), isocarboxylic acid methacrylate e4'), methyl methacrylate e4”) and half of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S vii) are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Inert gas (argon) is bubbled into the medium for 10 minutes.
[0415] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0416] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl acetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of the volatile compound(s) such as ethyl acetate.
[0417] After stripping, the alkyd polymer - poly(methacrylate isobornyl-co-methyl methacrylate) i) is at a dry extract of 52.5% in isododecane, then ethanol is added to obtain a polymer at a dry extract of 50% (containing 5% ethanol). The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20°C.
[0418] Example 2: Synthesis of an Alkyd Polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-stearyl methacrylate-co-methyl methacrylate) in isododecane
[0419] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - polymethacrylate i) is:
[0420] [Tables4] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd NOURACID DE402 c) 13.3 Octanoic acid d) 23.1 Homophthalic acid a) 16.8 Pentaerythritol b) 16.8 Poly(meth)acrylate Isobornyl methacrylate e2) 18 Stearyl methacrylate el) 2 Methyl methacrylate f) 10
[0421] Step 1: Synthesis of the alkyd
[0422] Quantity of reagents
[0423] [Tables5] Ingredients Mass (g) NOURACID DE402 19 Octanoic acid 33 Homophthalic acid 24 Pentaerythritol 24
[0424] Operating mode
[0425] Homophthalic acid, octanoic acid, pentaerythritol and NOURACID DE402 are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an argon atmosphere throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180 °C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230 °C. Synthesis duration approximately 6 hours.
[0426] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-methyl methacrylate) in isododecane
[0427] Quantity of reagents
[0428] [Tableauxô] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 70 Isobornyl Methacrylate 18 Stearyl Methacrylate 2 Methyl Methacrylate 10 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl Acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 50 + 50 Isododecane (Step 2 + before Stripping) 50 + 100
[0429] Operating mode
[0430] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (50 g), isocarboxylic acid methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate and half of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Argon bubbling is carried out in the medium for 10 minutes.
[0431] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0432] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl acetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of volatile compounds such as ethyl acetate.
[0433] After stripping, the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-stearyl methacrylate-co-methyl methacrylate) i) is at a dry extract of 35% in isododecane and then ethanol is added to obtain a polymer at a dry extract of 32% (containing 10% Ethanol). The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20°C.
[0434] Example 3: Synthesis of an Alkyd Polymer Version 2 -poly(isobornyl methacrylate) in isododecane
[0435] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - poly(meth)acrylate is:
[0436] [Tables?] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd 50% NOURACID DE402 c) 12.5 Octanoic acid d) 15 Sebacic acid a) 11.5 Pentaerythritol b) 11 Poly(meth)acrylate 50% Isobornyl methacrylate e2) 50 XX
[0437] Step 1: Synthesis of the alkyd
[0438] Quantity of reagents
[0439] [Tables8] Ingredients Mass (g) NOURACID DE402 25 Octanoic acid 30 Sebacic acid 23 Pentaerythritol 22
[0440] Operating mode
[0441] Sebacic acid, octanoic acid, pentaerythritol and NOURACID DE402 are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an argon atmosphere throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180 °C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230 °C. Synthesis duration approximately 6 hours.
[0442] la < 5 mg / g at the end of the reaction la = Acid number
[0443] Brookfield CAP 1000 cone-plate viscosity number 5 + at 50 °C = 1072 cP
[0444] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer - polyisobornyl methacrylate in isododecane
[0445] Quantity of reagents
[0446] [Tables9] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 50 Isobornyl Methacrylate 50 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl Acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 75 + 50 Isododecane (Step 2 + before Stripping) 75 + 100
[0447] Operating mode
[0448] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (75 g), isocarboxylic acid methacrylate and half of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Argon bubbling is carried out in the medium for 10 minutes.
[0449] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0450] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl acetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of volatile compounds such as ethyl acetate.
[0451] After stripping, the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate) is at a dry extract of 50% in isododecane. The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20°C.
[0452] Example 4: Synthesis of an alkyd-polyacrylate polymer of isobutylene in isododecane
[0453] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - polyacrylate i) is:
[0454] [Tables 10] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd 50% NOURACID DE402 c) 12.5 Octanoic acid d) 15 Sebacic acid a) 11.5 Pentaerythritol b) 11 Poly(meth)acrylate 50% Isobutyl acrylate e2) 50 XX
[0457] [Tableauxll] Ingredients Mass (g) NOURACID DE402 25 Octanoic acid 30 Sebacic acid 23 Pentaerythritol 22
[0458] Operating mode
[0459] Sebacic acid, octanoic acid, pentaerythritol and NOURACID DE402 are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an argon atmosphere throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180 °C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230 °C. Synthesis duration approximately 6 hours.
[0460] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer - isobornyl polyacrylate in isododecane
[0461] Quantity of reagents
[0462] [Tables 12] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 50 Isobornyl Acrylate 50 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl Acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 75 + 50 Isododecane (Step 2 + before Stripping) 75 + 100
[0463] Operating mode
[0464] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (75 g), isobornyl acrylate, and half of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Argon bubbling is carried out in the medium for 10 minutes.
[0465] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0466] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl acetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of volatile compounds such as ethyl acetate. After stripping, the alkyd polymer - isobornyl polyacrylate is at a dry extract of 50% in isododecane. The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20 °C.
[0467] Example 5: Synthesis of an Alkyd Polymer -poly (Isocarboxylic acid methacrylate-co- Isobutyl acrylate) in isododecane
[0468] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - poly(meth)acrylate is:
[0469] [Tables 13] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd 50% NOURACID DE402 c) 12.5 Octanoic acid d) 15 Sebacic acid a) 11.5 Pentaerythritol b) 11 Poly(meth)acrylate 50% Isobornyl methacrylate e2) 25 Isobornyl acrylate e2) 25
[0470] Step 1: Synthesis of the alkyd
[0471] Quantity of reagents
[0472] [Tablesl4] Ingredients Mass (g) NOURACID DE402 25 Octanoic acid 30 Sebacic acid 23 Pentaerythritol 22
[0473] Operating mode
[0474] Sebacic acid, octanoic acid, pentaerythritol and NOURACID DE402 are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an argon atmosphere throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180 °C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230 °C. Synthesis duration approximately 6 hours.
[0475] Acid number Ia < 5 mg / g at the end of the reaction
[0476] Brookfield CAP 1000 cone-plate viscosity number 5 + at 50 °C = 1072 cP
[0477] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer -poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-isobornyl acrylate) i) in isododecane
[0478] Quantity of reagents
[0479] [Tables 15] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 50 Isobutyl Methacrylate 25 Isobutyl Acrylate 25 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl Acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 75 + 50 Isododecane (Step 2 + before Stripping) 75 + 100
[0480] Operating mode
[0481] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (75 g), isobutyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate and half of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Argon bubbling is carried out in the medium for 10 minutes.
[0482] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0483] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl acetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of volatile compounds such as ethyl acetate. After stripping, the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-isobornyl acrylate) is at a dry extract of 50% in isododecane. The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20 °C.
[0484] Example 6: Synthesis of an Alkyd Polymer - poly(Isobornyl Methacrylate-co-Isobornyl Acrylate) in Isododecane
[0485] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - poly(meth)acrylate i) is:
[0486] [Tables 16] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd 50% NOURACID DE402 c) 12.5 Octanoic acid d) 15 Sebacic acid a) 11.5 Pentaerythritol b) 11 Poly(meth)acrylate 50% Isobutyl methacrylate e5') 35 Isobutyl acrylate e5”) 15
[0487] Step 1: Synthesis of the alkyd
[0488] Quantity of reagents
[0489] [Tables 17] Ingredients Mass (g) NOURACID DE402 25 Octanoic acid 30 Sebacic acid 23 Pentaerythritol 22
[0490] Operating mode
[0491] Sebacic acid, octanoic acid, pentaerythritol and NOURACID DE402 are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an argon atmosphere throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180°C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230°C. Synthesis duration approximately 6 hours.
[0492] Acid number Ia < 5 mg / g at the end of the reaction
[0493] Brookfield CAP 100 cone-plate viscosity number 5 at 50°C = 1072 cP
[0494] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer -poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-isobornyl acrylate) i) in isododecane
[0495] Quantity of reagents
[0496] [Tables 18] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 50 Isobornyl Methacrylate 35 Isobornyl Acrylate 15 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl Acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 75 + 50 Isododecane (Step 2 + before Stripping) 75 + 100
[0497] Operating mode
[0498] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (75 g), isobornyl methacrylate, isobornyl acrylate and half of the radical initiator Trigonox T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Argon bubbling is carried out in the medium for 10 minutes.
[0499] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0500] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl acetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of volatile compounds such as ethyl acetate.
[0501] After stripping, the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-isobornyl acrylate) is at a dry extract of 50% in isododecane. The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20 °C.
[0502] Example 7: Synthesis of an Alkyd Polymer -poly(Isobornyl Methacrylate-co-Isobornyl Acrylate) in Isododecane
[0503] The overall composition of the alkyd polymer - poly(meth)acrylate i) is:
[0504] [Tablesl9] Ingredients Quantity (g-%) Alkyd 50% NOURACID DE402 c) 12.5 Octanoic acid d) 15 Sebacic acid a) 11.5 Pentaerythritol b) 11 Poly(meth)acrylate 50% Isobornyl methacrylate e5') 15 Isobornyl acrylate e5”) 35
[0505] Step 1: Synthesis of the alkyd
[0506] Quantity of reagents
[0507] [Tables20] Ingredients Mass (g) NOURACID DE402 25 Octanoic acid 30 Sebacic acid 23 Pentaerythritol 22
[0508] Operating mode
[0509] Sebacic acid, octanoic acid, pentaerythritol and NOURACID DE402 are introduced into a 0.5 liter reactor. The reactor is kept under an argon atmosphere throughout the synthesis (bubbling). The mixture is heated to 180°C for 1 hour. The temperature is increased to 230°C. Synthesis duration approximately 6 hours.
[0510] Acid number Ia < 5 mg / g at the end of the reaction
[0511] Brookfield CAP 1000+ cone-plate viscosity number 5 at 50°C = 1072cP
[0512] Step 2: Synthesis of the alkyd polymer -poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-isobornyl acrylate) in isododecane
[0513] Quantity of reagents
[0514] [Tables21] Ingredients Mass (g) Alkyd from Step 1 50 Isobutyl Methacrylate 15 Isobutyl Acrylate 35 Trigonox T21S (Step 1 + Step 2) 0.5 + 0.5 Ethyl Acetate (Step 1 + Stripping) 75 + 50 Isododecane (Step 2 + before Stripping) 75 + 100
[0515] Operating mode
[0516] The alkyd, ethyl acetate (75 g), isobutyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate and half of the Trigonox T21S radical initiator are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank to proceed to step 1. Argon bubbling is carried out in the medium for 10 minutes.
[0517] The medium is heated to 90°C (oil bath setting). After 2 hours, isododecane (50 g) and the rest of the Trigonox T21S are added (step 2).
[0518] After 7 hours of heating, stripping is carried out by adding ethyl cetate (50 g) and isododecane (100 g) followed by evaporation of volatile compounds such as ethyl acetate.
[0519] After stripping, the alkyd polymer - poly(isobornyl methacrylate-co-isobornyl acrylate) is at a dry extract of 50% in isododecane. The composition thus obtained is stable even after 3 months at 20 °C. Hair application: 1 / Hair coloring
[0520] Evaluations were conducted according to a 1-step protocol:
[0521] The different stages of the application protocol on 90% natural white keratin fibers (90% BN hair) according to the following routine:
[0522] 1) Application of the “base coat” to dry hair using a bath ratio of 0.5 g of formula / g of hair;
[0523] 2) The wick is dried with a hair dryer;
[0524] 3) The evaluations of resistance to the shampoo(s) are thus carried out 24 hours after the application;
[0525] 4) The colorimetric data of each of the strands were evaluated and measured in the L*a*b* system with a Minolta® CM-3610d spectrophotometer (Illuminant D65).
[0526] In the L* a* b* system, the three parameters respectively designate the intensity (L*), hue (a*) and saturation (b*). According to this system, the higher the value of L, the lighter or less intense the color. Conversely, the lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the color. a* and b* indicate two color axes, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.
[0527] The variations in coloration between the colored strands of untreated natural white hair (control) and after treatment (coloration) are defined by AE*, corresponding to the rise of the color on the keratin fibers, according to the following equation:
[0528] [Math.l] AE* = - Lo )2 4- (a" - ao')2 4- (b* - b / )2
[0529] In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after coloring of natural hair comprising 90% white hair and Lo*, a0* and b0* represent the values measured for untreated natural hair comprising 90% white hair (BN90).
[0530] The variations in coloration between untreated colored strands and after successive shampoos are defined by AE**, corresponding to the loss of color on the keratin fibers, according to the following equation:
[0531] [Math.2] ........j—------------------— 4E** = _ Lq yz + that” _ + (b--bo)2
[0532] In this equation, L**, a** and b** represent the values measured after successive shampooing of the colored hair and Lo**, a0** and b0** represent the values measured just after coloring and before shampooing.
[0533] The chromaticity in the CIE L*, a*, b* colorimetric system is calculated by the following equation:
[0534] [Math.3] ü = v ~ H-
[0535] Non-drastic shampoo protocol:
[0536] The colored hair strands are combed and then moistened under a trickle of water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times and then wrung out between two fingers. A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux®) is then applied evenly to the strands at a rate of 0.4 g of shampoo per gram of strand by gently kneading the strands lengthwise. 10 successive passes are made from root to tip. The strands impregnated with shampoo are rinsed under a trickle of water at 35°C by passing each strand between the fingers (15 passes) then wringing them out between two fingers before the next shampoo. Once the number of The desired shampoo is carried out, the strands of hair are combed and then dried with a hairdryer.
[0537] Application - copolymer i) - Plument: Iron oxide 3.
[0538] The following shampoo resistance tests were observed for the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) + Pigment combination
[0539] [Tables22] Ingredients g-% Raw Material MP: alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) 12.5 (ma) Pigment Iron oxide 3 3 Ethanol 2.5 Isododecane QSP
[0540] (ma) = active ingredient
[0541] Colorimetric measurements with Example 4
[0542] [Tables23] L ab AE**(Loss of color after 5 shampoos BN 90 strand 62.03 0.85 16.17 / 0 shampoos 41.47 21.71 17.24 1.41 5 shampoos 40.28 21.51 18.01
[0543] It appears that after application of the composition of the invention, the keratin fibers are colored homogeneously and in a chromatic red. The increase in color is very satisfactory. Even after 5 successive shampoos, no difference in color was observed, which remains red and chromatic. This visual observation was corroborated with the results of measurements using the spectrocolorimeter. Indeed, the chromaticity, for example, remains very good even after 5 successive shampoos (27.72 after coloring, vs. 28.04 after 5 shampoos). It should be noted that the measurements taken are made with 10 measurements and the results recorded in the tables correspond to the average over the 10 measurements.
[0544] [Tableaux24] Ingredients g-% MP: alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) 25 (ma) Pigment Iron oxide 3 6 Ethanol 5 Isododecane QSP
[0545] Calorimetric measurements Example 4:
[0546] It appears that after application of the composition of the invention, the keratin fibers are colored homogeneously and in a chromatic red. The color increase is very satisfactory. The chromaticity is very satisfactory and is persistent even after 5 shampoos (29.64 vs. 30.41). 2 / Styling application:
[0547] Styling evaluation protocol:
[0548] The styling evaluation protocol is detailed below:
[0549] On a 1 g lock of 90% white natural hair spread on aluminum foil is soaked 2 g of a solution containing the polymer at 25% in isododecane / Ethanol, the lock is then wound on an iron bar for about 5 cm and held by a hair clip.
[0550] The wick is measured immediately after application and 24 hours later, after storage at room temperature.
[0551] To check the water resistance after the 24-hour measurements, the strands are immersed in a water bath for 20 min and then measured after drying at room temperature (25°C).
[0552] Protocol: The following composition is applied
[0553] [Tables25] Ingredients g-% MP: alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) 25 (ma) Ethanol 5 Isododecane QSP Example 7: Measurements for styling application
[0554] [Tables26] Length (cm) On support After unrolling 24 hours after unrolling After 20 min water bath 24 hours after water bath Isododecane 5 8 12 18 18 Example 4 6 6 6 6 8 Example 7 6 6 6 6 8
[0555] It appears that the curls obtained after treatment of the keratin fibres with the compositions of the invention which comprise the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) (ex. 4 and 7) make it possible to obtain curls which are significantly more permanent than the comparative compositions free from i). 3 / Skin application:
[0556] Property Evaluations
[0557] Preparation of deposits
[0558] Firstly, a deposit is made on a vitro support of the byko-charts type, black scrub panels from the company Byk with a cylinder calibrated at 100 pm. The film is left to dry for 24 hours at room temperature. Once dry, the film has a thickness of approximately 50 pm.
[0559] After 24 hours of drying, evaluations of the deposits are carried out:
[0560] Measurement of chemical resistance to fatty substances.
[0561] Deposit of 0.5 mL of olive oil or water for 5 minutes on the deposit. After 5 minutes of contact, a cotton ball is passed 15 times and an observation of the degradation of the deposit is carried out.
[0562] Gloss measurement
[0563] Gloss measurement with the gloss meter. Gloss is read at an angle of 20° (most discriminating angle).
[0564] Results
[0565] [Tables27] Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Water resistance +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ Resistance to olive oil +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ +++ Gloss at 20° 85 81 42 93 75 71 86 Observât0 Glossy Glossy Satin Ultra Glossy Glossy Glossy
[0566] In the end, deposits resistant to water / olive oil / sebum aggressors and shiny were obtained.
[0567] The assessment was made as follows:
[0568] +++: Resistance property rated as very efficient
[0569] ++: Resistance property rated as average performance
[0570] +: Resistance property rated as poor
[0571] 0: Resistance property rated as not performing well
[0572] Simplex formula evaluations were conducted to show performance for skin application.
[0573] 1-step applications:
[0574] A composition according to the invention containing an alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i), the pigment iv), the solvents (Isododecane with the possible presence of Ethanol) was produced using a Speed Mixer (2 minutes - 3500 rpm).
[0575] This composition was applied to a Bioskin type vitro support (equivalent support of elastomer skin) using a film puller (wet thickness 100 μm). The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.
[0576] Resistance to tape
[0577] A piece of tape (Scotch® Magic™ 810 from 3M; 1 = 19 mm L = 5 cm) is applied to the composition film according to the invention. A weight of approximately 1070 g is applied to the piece of tape for 30 seconds. The adhesive tape is then removed and applied to a slide to observe the result. The adhesion of the film to the support is thus evaluated (see [Fig.l]).
[0578] Formulation fragmentation test on Bioskin
[0579] As with the olive oil and scotch tape resistance tests, films are applied to a sample of Bioskin After a day of drying, thanks to the force hands, the bioskin plate is stretched 10 times. Then the result can be observed on the formulation film (fragmentation or not). Two examples of response are presented in see [Fig.2] and [Fig.3] according to our invention.
[0580] The assessment was made as follows:
[0581] +++: Physical constraints property evaluated as very efficient
[0582] ++: Physical constraints property evaluated as moderately efficient
[0583] +: Physical constraints property evaluated as poorly performing
[0584] 0: Physical constraints property evaluated as not performing well
[0585] [Tables28] Ingredients g-% MP: alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) 25 (ma) Pigment 6 Ethanol 5 Isododecane QSP
[0586] The results of the evaluations are summarized in the table below:
[0587] [Tables29] Example 4 Example 7 Scotch Blue Al +++ +++ Iron Oxide 3 +++ +++ D&C Red 7 +++ +++ Stretching Blue Al +++ +++ Iron Oxide 3 +++ +++ D&C Red 7 +++ +++
[0588] It appears that after application to the substrate, the colored compositions remain very resistant to the physical constraints of stretching and abrasion.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, which comprises i) one or more alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) resulting from the polycondensation of: a) one or more organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH; and / or at least one anhydride group -C(O)-OC(O)-; and b) one or more organic polyol(s); and c) one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) comprising an unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, said acid(s) being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; and d) optionally one or more organic monocarboxylic acid(s) different from c); and e) one or more monomers chosen from el) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C8-C22)alkyl; and e2) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-C12) cycloalkyl; and f) optionally one or more (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim in which the organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxy -C(O)-OH groups a) is (are) chosen from polycarboxylic acids, acyclic, linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated, and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising at least 2 carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH, in particular 2 to 4 -C(O)-OH groups, particularly comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 18, and even better 4 to 14 carbon atoms, or even 5 to 12 carbon atoms; preferentially a) is (are) saturated, linear hydrocarbon and comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 4 to 12 carbon atoms; or is monocyclic or bicyclic, particularly monocyclic, preferably aromatic, and comprises 5 to 10 carbon atoms, such as phenyl;preferably, the compound(s) a) is (are) chosen from adipic acid, sebacic acid, and homophthalic acid and even better sebacic acid.;
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 in which the organic compound(s) comprising at least two carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH a) is (are) chosen from dicarboxylic acids carboxylic acids, preferably chosen from oxalic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, homophthalic acid, azelaic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, and maleic acid, the compound of the following formula: preferably acid Frspot I009 otawt Wwtoe. homophthalic.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compound(s) a) represent(s) between 5% and 60% by weight, in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, and better still between 15% and 40% by weight, and even better still between 20% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the final alkyd - resulting from the condensation of ingredients a), b) c) and d) - and / or represent(s) between 0.5% and 55% by weight, particularly between 1% and 45% by weight, and in particular 1.5% to 35% by weight, better still from 5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 10% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) i).
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the organic polyol(s) b) comprises 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups (OH), in particular 3 to 4 hydroxyl groups, is (are) hydrocarbon-based, acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and / or monocyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising 3 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 4 to 14, or even 5 to 10 carbon atoms, and at least 3 hydroxyl groups, and may further comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, S, N, preferably, said heteroatom(s) being able to be intercalated in the chain and / or in the cycle(s); the organic polyol(s) b) is (are) more particularly chosen from: - triols, such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolethane, trime-ethylolpropane, glycerol; - tetraols, such as pentaerythritol, erythritol, diglycerol or ditrimethylolpropane; - pentols such as xylitol; - hexols such as sorbitol and mannitol or dipentae- erythritol or triglycerol; more preferably, the organic polyol(s) b) of the invention is (are) chosen from glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and their mixtures and even better is pentaerythritol.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compound(s) b) represents(s) between 5% to 50% by weight, in particular 7% to 40% by weight, and better still 10% to 35% by weight, of the total weight of the copolymer(s) of the final alkyd (derived from the condensation of ingredients a), b), c) and d)); and / or preferably represents(s) 0.5% to 45% by weight, in particular 0.6% to 35% by weight, and better still 1% to 30% by weight, of the total weight of the polyalkyd or of the -poly(alkyl)acrylate i).
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) comprise(s) at least one unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, said hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms, and being able to be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; particularly the monocarboxylic acid(s) with an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprises a linear, or branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, comprising 7 to 32 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 28 carbon atoms and even better 10 to 24, or even 12 to 20, carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon chain being able to be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;preferably the monocarboxylic acid(s) with an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain c) represents a compound of the following formula (III), as well as its salts and its geometric isomers (Z / E or cis / trans) Ra-C(O)-OH (III), formula (III) in which Ra is an unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, comprising 6 to 31 carbon atoms, in particular 7 to 27 carbon atoms, and even better 9 to 23 carbon atoms, or even 11 to 19 carbon atoms, said radical possibly being substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups, more preferably, Ra represents a (C6-C3i)alkenyl group, particularly (C7-C27)alkenyl, more particularly (C9-C23)alkenyl, better still (Cn-Ci9)alkenyl, even better still (Ci3-Ci7)alkenyl, more preferably the alkenyl group is linear and comprises from 1 to 5 unsaturations (preferably 1 to 3 double bonds, more preferably one double bond).;
8. A composition according to any preceding claim in
9. in which the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) is (are) chosen from unsaturated fatty acids of natural origin and preferably of plant origin, monounsaturated, diunsaturated or triunsaturated, in particular omega-3, omega-6, omega-9 and omega-12; more preferably from vegetable oils extracted from various plants such as sunflower, rapeseed, castor oil, lesquerella, olive, soybean, palm, coriander, celery, dill, carrot, fennel, Limnanthes Alba (meadowfoam), hemp seed oil, black currant and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) is (are) chosen from, alone or as a mixture: - monounsaturated monocarboxylic acids selected from caproleic acid (cis-9-decenoic), obtusilic acid (cis-4-decenoic), decenoic acid (or 9-decenoic acid), undecylenic acid (or 10-undecenoic acid), dodecylenic acid, linderic acid (cis-4-dodecenoic), myristoleic acid (cis-9-tetradecenoic), physeteric acid (cis-5-tetradecenoic), tsuzuic acid (cis-4-tetradecenoic), palmitoleic acid (9Z-hexadecenoic or trans-9-hexadecenoic acid, or C16:1 co-7), oleic acid (9Z-octadecenoic acid, or C18:1 co-9), petroselinic acid (cis-6-octadecenoic acid), vaccenic acid (cis-11-octadecenoic acid), elaidic acid (trans-9-octadecenoic acid, C18:1, co-9), 11-eicosenoic acid (11Z-eicosenoic acid, or C20:1 co-9 - also called gondoic acid, gadoleic acid, erucastic acid), erucic acid (13Z-docosaenoic acid, or C22:1 co-9), ketoleic acid (11-docosenoic acid, or C22:1),neuronic acid (15Z -tetracosaenoic acid, or C24 :1 co-9), and, - polyunsaturated monocarboxylic acids selected among linoleic acid (9Z,12Z-octadecadienoic acid, or C18:2 co-6), linolenic acid a-linolenic acid (9Z,12Z,15Z-octadecanoic acid, C13-38), or y-linolenic (6Z,9Z,12Z-octadecatrienoic acid, or C18 :3 co-6), dihomo-y-linolenic acid (8Z,llZ,14Z-eicosatrienoic acid, or C20 :3 co-6 ) and arachidonic acid ( 5Z,8Z,llZ,14Z-eicosatetraenoic acid, or C20 :4 co-6), eicosa-pentaenoic acid (5Z,8Z,llZ,14Z,17Z-eicosapentaenoic acid, or C20 :5 co-3), docosahexaenoic acid ( 4Z,7Z,10Z,13Z,16Z,19Z-docosahexaenoic, or C22 :6 co-3) acid
10.
11. stearidonic ((6Z,9Z,12Z,15Z)-octadeca-6,9,12,15-tetraenoic acid), as well as monounsaturated fatty acids C18:1, and C18:2 and optionally C18:3 (preferably mixtures of oleic acid C18:1, linoleic acid C18:2, linolenic acid C18:3); preferably, the monocarboxylic acid(s) c) is (are) chosen from C[8] monocarboxylic acids, i.e. comprising an unsaturated hydrocarbon chain Ra with 17 carbon atoms, comprising from 1 to 3 unsaturations, such as oleic acid, elaidic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or mixtures thereof, in particular C18:1 oleic acid, C18:2 linoleic acid, C18:3 linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) represents from 5% to 60% by weight, particularly 7% to 50% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 35% by weight, of the total weight of the final alkyd - resulting from the condensation of ingredients a), and b) and c) and optionally d) - and / or the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) c) represents from 0.5% to 55% by weight, particularly 0.7% to 45% by weight, more particularly 1% to 32% by weight, better still from 5% to 25%, and better still from 7% to 20%, of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i). Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) comprise(s) a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably the hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly (Ci-C24)alkyl, particularly C4-C23, better still C5-C22, even better still C6-C20;more particularly the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) different from c) is (are) chosen from saturated monocarboxylic acids such as caproic acid or hexanoic acid (C6), isoheptanoic acid (C7), 4-ethylpentanoic acid (C7), octanoic acid (C8), isooc-tanoic acid (C8), caprylic acid (C8), 2-ethylhexanoic acid (C8), 4,5-dimethylhexanoic acid (C8), 2-heptylheptanoic acid (C7), nonanoic acid (C9), isononanoic acid (C9), 3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid (C9), decanoic acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), tridecanoic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22), of; preferably the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) other than c) is (are) chosen from natural fatty acids; more particularly chosen from isoheptanoic acid (C7), octanoic acid (C8), nonanoic acid (C9), isononanoic acid (C9), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), isostearic acid (C18), stearic acid (C18), behenic acid (C22) and mixtures thereof, and even better octanoic acid.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the organic monocarboxylic acid(s) d) other than c) represents from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular 15% to 60% by weight and better still 20% to 50% by weight, of the total weight of the final alkyd (derived from the condensation of compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) and / or 5% to 50% by weight, in particular 10% to 40% by weight and better still 15% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer i).
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the monomer(s) e) is (are) chosen from el) which is (are) of the following formula (V): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R'” formula (V) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (C8-C22)alkyl group, preferably (C8-C2o)alkyl, in particular (C2n)alkyl with n integer = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, preferably R”' represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, more preferably stearyl.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the monomer(s) e) is (are) chosen from e2) which is (are) of the following formula (VI): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” ' formula (VI) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R”' represents a (C5-Ci0)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the monomer(s) f) is (are) chosen from the monomers of the following formula (VII): H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” ' formula (VII) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or (CrC 4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R'” represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably R' ' ' represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl more preferably methyl.
16. A composition according to any preceding claim in in which the mass ratio [monomers el) +monomers e2)] / monomers f) is greater than 1 such that 2.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the copolymer(s) i) are such that the mass ratio of the compounds [a)+b)+c) + optionally d)] / i) is greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 1 and 2.
5.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) i) is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s), resulting from the polycondensation of the compounds a) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, and b) as defined in any one of claims 1, 5 and 6, and c) as defined in any one of claims 1, 7 to 10 and optionally d) as defined in any one of claims 1, 11 and 12, followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with one or more monomer(s) e) chosen from the monomers el) as defined in any one of claims 1, 13 and 16 and optionally with f) as defined in any one of claims 1 or 15.
19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 in which the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate polymer(s) i) is (are) obtained from one or more alkyd(s), resulting from the polycondensation of the compounds a) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, and b) as defined in any one of claims 1, 5 and 6, and c) as defined in any one of claims 1, 7 to 10 and optionally d) as defined in any one of claims 1, 11 and 12, followed by the polycondensation of the alkyd(s) with one or more monomer(s) e) chosen from the monomers e2) as defined in any one of claims 1, 14 and 16 and optionally with f) as defined in any one of claims 1 or 15.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) i) is (are) prepared according to the following steps: - a first step in which the compounds a) in any one of claims 1 to 4, b) in any one of claims 1, 5 and 6, c) and optionally d) as defined in any one of claims 1, 11 and 12, a), b) and c) are condensed together preferably with heating of the reaction medium preferably without solvent; then - a second step which consists of reacting the product obtained in the previous step with the monomers el) as defined in any one of claims 1, 13 and 16 and / or e2) as defined in any one of claims 1, 14 and 16 and optionally f) as defined in any one of claims 1 or 15 in the presence of one or more radical initiator(s) vii), preferably with heating of the reaction medium, preferably in the presence of at least one aprotic solvent; then - possibly elimination of the solvent(s) present in the previous step; then - optionally adding at least one polar protic solvent; more particularly the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate copolymer(s) i) is (are) prepared by implementing the following successive steps: - In a first step, the alkyd is prepared by reacting compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d) as defined previously; the 1st step is carried out particularly without additional solvent to the reaction medium comprising compounds a), and b), and c) and optionally d); preferably the reaction medium is under an inert atmosphere (argon) optionally with stirring; particularly the reaction medium is heated, preferably to a temperature between 50°C and 250°C, more particularly between 100°C and 240°C, better still between 150°C and 230°C; The heating time is preferably between 30 minutes and 12 hours, particularly from 1 h to 8 h; and - In a 2nd step, the alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate i) is prepared by reacting, preferably by radical means, the alkyd prepared in the first step with the monomers el) and / or e2) and optionally f) as defined above.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims which comprises ii) one or more hydrocarbon fatty bodies which are liquid at 25°C, at atmospheric pressure, particularly volatile; more particularly chosen from apolar oils, preferably chosen from: - linear or branched C8-C30 alkanes, in particular C10-C20, more particularly C10-C16, volatile or non-volatile; preferably volatile - cyclic, non-aromatic, C5-Ci2 alkanes; volatile or not
22.
23. volatile; preferably volatile, and - mixtures thereof; preferably ii) is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably volatile, more particularly the apolar oils, described above; from branched alkanes in C 8-C 16, in particular in C 10-C 14 more particularly: - isoalkanes of petroleum origin such as isododecane; - linear alkanes, such as undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn) and n-tetradecane (CM), as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn); even more particularly the liquid hydrocarbon fatty body(ies) ii) is (are) preferably volatile hydrocarbon oils or is a mixture of different volatile oils, preferentially chosen from isododecane and octyldodecanol, more particularly isododecane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises iii) one or more organic solvent(s) different from b); preferably chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, propanol, n-butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanol, hexanol, preferably n-butanol or ethanol, more preferably ethanol, particularly the organic solvent(s) different from b) is / are in an amount of less than 40% by weight, more preferably less than 30% by weight, even more preferably less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition, according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients iv) chosen from g) dyes, h) pigments; i) active ingredients for the care of keratin materials, in particular skin, j) UV filters (A) and / or (B), or k) mixtures of g) to j); preferably h) pigments chosen in particular from: - organic and mineral or inorganic pigments, - special effect pigments such as fluorescent, thermochromic, photochromic pigments, pearlescent pigments, coated or uncoated, in the form of pigment powder or paste, lacquers, glitter or mixtures thereof; said pigments can be dispersed in the product using an agent dispersant and pigments can be surface treated with an organic agent; in particular the cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) is (are) chosen from: - organic nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, an-thraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone pigments; - white or colored organic pigments which are chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references pigment BLUE 1 LAKE Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the pigments oranges codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic or phenolic derivatives; - mineral pigments or inorganic pigments chosen from iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide; preferably the cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) is (are) chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7, alkali metal salt of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, more preferably the pigment(s) used are chosen from red iron oxides, such as Iron 3 oxide, and azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7, more preferably red iron oxides, such as Iron 3 oxide.
24. Alkyd-poly(alkyl)acrylate(s) copolymer(s) resulting from polycondensation i) as defined in any one of claims 1 to
25. 20. Process for treating keratin materials, preferably a) keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows or |3) human skin, in particular lips, comprising the application to said materials of at least one composition, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 23.
26. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 23 for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular a) keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows or |3) human skin, in particular lips, comprising the application to said materials of at least one composition, for skin care, and / or skin makeup, and / or for shaping keratin fibers, in particular hair.
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