STABLE, NON-STICKY COMPOSITION WITH TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION PROPERTIES
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023015358
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-12-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-01-09
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-12-27
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to provide both stability and a non-sticky sensation after application, while also offering texture transformation during use.
A composition comprising amphiphilic polymers with specific hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and fatty acid polyglyceryl esters with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, which stabilizes the texture and reduces stickiness.
The composition maintains stability and provides a refreshing texture transformation from gel to liquid, ensuring a non-sticky sensation during and after application, even under temperature variations.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: STABLE NON-STICKY COMPOSITION WITH TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION PROPERTY Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin which is stable and which can provide a transformation of texture as well as a non-stickiness. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Providing a comfortable texture to the skin is one of the key features of cosmetic products, especially skin care cosmetic products.
[0003] In particular, texture transformation (texture change, for example, from a gel or cream to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow the liquid to flow out of the composition) which could provide a refreshing sensation at the beginning of application, as well as a non-sticky sensation or a reduced sticky sensation after application, are always necessary for consumer satisfaction during use.
[0004] It should be noted that a composition which is unstable and easily causes collapse of the structure of the composition often provides a comfortable feeling during use. This means that it is difficult to provide both a comfortable feeling during use and good stability.
[0005] So far, several technologies relating to gel-like compositions or emulsion compositions that provide improved texture and stability have been reported. For example, WO2022 / 124385 discloses a stable composition that can provide texture transformation. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0006] However, sufficient studies have not yet been conducted regarding stable compositions that can provide no or reduced stickiness after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0007] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide no or reduced stickiness after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0008] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
[0009] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic motif;
[0010] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0011] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one group hydroxyl in its polyglyceryl fraction,
[0012] in which
[0013] the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0014] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit may consist of C8-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters.
[0015] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit can be crosslinked.
[0016] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit may be selected from the group consisting of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, C8-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosslinked polymer, potassium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sodium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and a mixture thereof.
[0017] The amount of (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018] The (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and a mixture thereof.
[0019] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may be selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0021] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may be selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and a mixture thereof.
[0022] The amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0023] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one filler.
[0024] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.
[0025] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) water.
[0026] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a H / W emulsion.
[0027] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0028] After careful research, the inventors have discovered a novel approach to providing a stable composition that can provide no or reduced stickiness after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0029] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition, comprising:
[0030] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic motif;
[0031] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0032] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one group hydroxyl in its polyglyceryl fraction,
[0033] in which
[0034] the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide no or reduced stickiness after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.
[0036] The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even in case of temperature changes from a cold temperature to a hot temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable in the time and can be stored for a long time even during temperature changes occurring between winter and summer.
[0037] The composition according to the present invention can provide no or reduced stickiness, preferably after application.
[0038] The term "sticky" here means a property that provides a sticky sensation to the skin.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention may provide a texture transformation during application, preferably at the beginning of application. Texture transformation herein means a change in texture from a gel or cream, for example, to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow the liquid to flow out of the composition. The texture transformation may provide a refreshing sensation.
[0040] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent touch feeling, particularly a skin feeling during and after application of the composition.
[0041] The composition according to the present invention and the like will be explained in more detail hereinafter.
[0042] [Composition]
[0043] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
[0044] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic motif;
[0045] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0046] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one group hydroxyl in its polyglyceryl fraction,
[0047] in which
[0048] the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0049] (Amphiphilic polymer)
[0050] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. A single type of such a polymer, or two or more different types of such polymers may be used in combination.
[0051] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit (may hereinafter be referred to simply as “polymer as sociative") may be an associative polymer. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "associative polymer" designates homopolymers or copolymers which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules.
[0052] The (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit can function as an emulsifier.
[0053] The hydrophilic unit of the (a) amphiphilic polymer may have at least one carboxylic acid which may be in the form of a salt. The hydrophilic unit may be derived from (meth)acrylic acid or its salts.
[0054] The hydrophobic unit of the (a) amphiphilic polymer may have a fatty chain including 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. The hydrophobic unit may be derived from C8-30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid. It is preferable that the fatty chain is present in a pendant group or a side chain of the (a) amphiphilic polymer.
[0055] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is hydrophilic so that it is soluble or dispersible in water or in alcohols, in particular chosen from lower alcohols, glycols, polyols.
[0056] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term “hydrophilic” polymer designates a (co)polymer capable of forming one or more hydrogen bonds with water or alcohols, in particular chosen from lower alcohols, glycols and polyols. In particular, it is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymers are capable of forming OH and / or NH and / or SH bonds.
[0057] The (a) amphiphilic polymer can be obtained by polymerization of monomers consisting essentially of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their salts or esters. Thus, the (a) amphiphilic polymer can be referred to as a (meth)acrylic / acrylate polymer.
[0058] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer, if not crosslinked, is not made or obtained using a monomer other than acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their salts or esters.
[0059] The (meth)acrylic acid salt may be in the form of an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt, an alkaline earth metal salt or an ammonium salt.
[0060] The (meth)acrylic acid ester may be chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylates and hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0061] In one embodiment, the (meth)acrylic acid ester may be selected from C 1 -C 10 alkyl (meth)acrylates, C 10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylates, C 1-4 hydroxyl alkyl (meth)acrylates and C 10-30 hydroxyl alkyl (meth)acrylates. 10-30-
[0062] The C,4 alkyl ester of (meth)acrylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, propyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof.
[0063] The Cr4 alkyl hydroxyl ester of (meth)acrylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxymethyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxybutyl (meth)acrylate and mixtures thereof.
[0064] The C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylates may be C12.26 alkyl (meth)acrylates, and preferably C12 22-alkyl (meth)acrylates.
[0065] Examples of (meth)acrylates (Ci0-C30) include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0066] Examples of hydroxyyl (meth)acrylates (Ci0-C30) include hydroxylauryl acrylate, hydroxystearyl acrylate, hydroxydecyl acrylate, hydroxyisodecyl acrylate and hydroxydodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, hydroxylauryl methacrylate, hydroxystearyl methacrylate, hydroxydecyl methacrylate, hydroxyisodecyl methacrylate and hydroxydodecyl methacrylate.
[0067] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer consists of C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters. As esters of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, those explained above (except C10-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate) may be mentioned.
[0068] For example, the (a) amphiphilic polymer may preferably be made or obtained by the polymerization of the following monomers (I) and (II).
[0069] H2C=C(R1)COOR2 (I)
[0070] H2C=C(R1)COOR3 (II)
[0071] in which
[0072] R1 is chosen from H and CH3, preferably H,
[0073] R2 is chosen from C8-30 alkyl, preferably C10-26 alkyl, and more preferably C12-22 alkyl, and
[0074] R3 is chosen from H and C1-4 alkyl such as methyl.
[0075] It may be more preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer is made or obtained by the polymerization of the following monomers (I') and (II).
[0076] H2C=CHCOOR2(I')
[0077] H2C=C(R1)COOR3 (II)
[0078] in which
[0079] R1 is chosen from H and CH3,
[0080] R2 is chosen from C8-30 alkyl, preferably C10-26 alkyl, and more preferably C12-22 alkyl, and
[0081] R3 is selected from H and C1-4 alkyl such as methyl.
[0082] It is preferable that the (a) amphiphilic polymer is crosslinked.
[0083] The (a) amphiphilic polymer may be chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
[0084] (i) (meth)acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid;
[0085] (ii) the monomer of formula (I) above in which R1 denotes H or CH3, preferably H, and R2 denotes an alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
[0086] (iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylene unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, sucrose allyl ether, pentaerythritol allyl ether, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide. As the allyl ether, for example, a 2-propenyl group may be mentioned.
[0087] Among the copolymers of this type, those composed of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer or those composed of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, such as those described above, will be used more particularly.
[0088] The (a) amphiphilic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, C8-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosslinked polymer, potassium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sodium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and a mixture thereof.
[0089] Particularly preferred according to the present invention, among the above polymers, are acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen® TRI, Pemulen® TR2, Pemulen EZ4U, Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol® 1382 and Carbopol® EDT 2020.
[0090] The (a) amphiphilic polymer may function as a thickener, preferably a hydrophilic thickener.
[0091] The amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight. weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0092] Furthermore, the amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0093] The amount of the (a) amphiphilic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0094] (Polysaccharide derived from microorganisms)
[0095] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms. A single type of such a polysaccharide may be used, or two or more different types of such polysaccharides may be used in combination.
[0096] (b) Microorganism-derived polysaccharide means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.
[0097] The (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide is not a plant derived polysaccharide. It may be preferable that the (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide is not cellulose based.
[0098] Examples of the (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide include cardolane, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.
[0099] It may be preferable that the (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and a mixture thereof.
[0100] It may be more preferable that the (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide is sclerotium gum, which is sold under the name, for example, Actigum CS 11 QD by the Cargill company.
[0101] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0102] The amount of the (b) polysaccharide derived from microorganisms in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] The amount of the (b) micro-organism derived polysaccharide in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0104] (Polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid)
[0105] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety. A single type of such fatty acid polyglyceryl ester, or two or more different types of such fatty acid polyglyceryl esters may be used in combination.
[0106] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
[0107] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may have an HLB value of 2.0 or more, preferably 2.5 or more, and more preferably 3.0 or more.
[0108] Thus, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may have an HLB value of 2.0 to 7.0, preferably 2.5 to 6.5, and more preferably 3.0 to 6.0.
[0109] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(lS / A), where S is the saponification number of the ester and A is the neutralization number of the fatty acid.
[0110] The (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may be selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters derived from two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0111] Polyglyceryl polyricinoleates:
[0112] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may be chosen from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates.
[0113] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "polyglyceryl polyricinoleate" denotes an ester resulting from the esterification of one or more polyglycerols with at least one polyricinoleic acid. A polyglycerol which is suitable for the present invention may be chosen from the compounds of general formula (I) below: ' (D ''GH OH r
[0114] in which
[0115] n represents an integer between 1 and 11, preferably between 1 and 7, more preferably between 1 and 5, even more preferably between 1 and 2.
[0116] A polyricinoleic acid suitable for the present invention may be chosen from the compounds of general formula (II) below: 0 OH CACH^-Œ=CH~CH^ / O Ô y ii! . , । < O 6 n 1 HO—C-(Q Hglr CH—G H-CH g-GH-fO H g) CHg (II)
[0117] in which
[0118] m represents an integer between 0 and 10, in particular between 1 and 8, and more particularly between 1 and 5.
[0119] A polyglyceryl polyricinoleate suitable for the present invention is a partial ester.
[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "partial ester" is intended to denote a compound in which not all of the -OH groups of the polyglycerol units have been esterified with polyricinoleic acid, in other words a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate compound comprising at least one free -OH group on the polyglycerol chain.
[0121] By way of example, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate suitable for the present invention may be a compound of general formula (III) below: (III) CH? i “ CH-OR CH? I O r-4------------. ch? CH OR CH, I o ... ...................i GH g CH-OR CH? x0~<
[0122] in which
[0123] R and R' represent, independently, radicals chosen from a hydrogen atom or a polyricinoleate chain, provided that at least one of these radicals R or R' is a hydrogen atom, and that at least one of these radicals R or R' is a polyricinoleate chain, and
[0124] n represents an integer between 0 and 11, and in particular between 0 and 7, preferably between 0 and 5, even more particularly between 1 and 4.
[0125] As examples of polyglyceryl polyricinoleates which are most particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, in particular sold by Karlshamns under the name Akoline PGPR, by Stearinerie Dubois Fils under the name DUB PGPR, by Dr Straetmans under the name Dermofeel PR, by Croda under the name Crester PR, by Sasol under the name Imwitor 600 or otherwise by Croda under the name ARLACEL 1690; poly-glyceryl-6 polyricinoleates sold by Taiyo Kagaku Co. LTD under the name SunSoft 818R and by Nikko Chemicals Co. LTD under the name Hexaglyn PR-15 or by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co. LTD under the name S-Face CR-1001.
[0126] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate may be chosen from polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate is polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, which is sold under the name, for example, SY-Glyster CRS-75 MB by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo.
[0127] Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters derived from two or more fatty acids:
[0128] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) polyglyceryl ester of fatty acid having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety may be selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters derived from two or more fatty acids, i.e. fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprising at least two, preferably three, different fatty acid moieties. At least one of the fatty acid moieties may be a monovalent carboxylic acid and / or at least one of the fatty acid moieties may be a divalent carboxylic acid.
[0129] The fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprising at least two different fatty acid moieties may be a polyglycerol ester derived from 2 to 5 glycerins and (i) polyhydroxystearic acid such as poly(12-hydroxy stearic acid) and (ii) a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, divalent carboxylic acid containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms.
[0130] The fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprising at least three different fatty acid moieties may be a polyglycerol ester derived from 2 to 5 glycerins and (i) polyhydroxystearic acid such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), (ii) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated divalent carboxylic acid containing 4 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and (iii) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monovalent fatty acid containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0131] Fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprising at least three different fatty acid moieties may be obtained by esterifying a mixture of polyglycerol with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 polyglycerol units (preferably 4 units); (ii) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent carboxylic acid containing from 4 to 18 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, monovalent fatty acid containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid).
[0132] As a preferred example of the fatty acid polyglyceryl esters comprising at least three different fatty acid moieties, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate of the following formula: in which PHS stands for polyhydroxystearic acid, and
[0133]
[0134]
[0135] IS denotes isostearic acid.
[0136] Such a compound is prepared according to application US-A-2005 / 0031580, and sold under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Goldschmidt (Degussa).
[0137] It is preferable that the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and a mixture thereof.
[0138] The amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0139] The amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] The amount of the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] (Charge)
[0142] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one filler. Only one type of filler may be used, but two or more different types of fillers may be used in combination.
[0143] The term "filler" should be understood to mean a colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic particle which is insoluble in any liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
[0144] The (d) filler(s) may be inorganic or organic, and may be spherical or oblong in shape, regardless of the crystallographic shape (e.g., sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic and the like). Examples include, but are not limited to, talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcined talc, calcined mica, calcined sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders formed from polyamide (Nylon®), poly-[3-alanine and polyethylene, powders formed from polyurethane, powders formed from tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauryllysine, starch, hollow polymeric microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles formed from polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
[0145] It is preferable that the (d) filler is selected from the group consisting of silica, starch, and a mixture thereof.
[0146] The amount of the (d) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0147] The amount of the (d) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] The amount of the (d) filler(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] (Oil)
[0150] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0151] Herein "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0152] The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0153] The (e) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
[0154] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0155] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0156] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0157] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C, C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C, C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0158] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.
[0159] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0160] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0161] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0162] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbons containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0163] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0164] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0165] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0167] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0168] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0169] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.
[0170] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tri-caprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0171] Examples of silicone oils that may be mentioned include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta-siloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0172] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0173] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0174] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones by Walter Noll (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0175] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0176] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: -----«D -q CHg '--------------------------------------------------------------------------------J CHg with D”: """ 0' ~ ® □': "" èi ™ 0 ■■ CH,, CtM?
[0177] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0178] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0179] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0180] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation:
[0181] - Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
[0182] - oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;
[0183] - Dow Corning's 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mmVs; and
[0184] - General Electric Viscasil® oils and certain oils in the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0185] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0186] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0187] The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0188] in which
[0189] Ri to Rio are, independently of one another, radicals based on C1-C30 hydrocarbons, preferably radicals based on C1-C2 hydrocarbons, and more preferably radicals based on C1-C6 saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched hydrocarbons, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
[0190] m, n, p and q are, independently of one another, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0191] provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.
[0192] Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:
[0193] - Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;
[0194] - oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
[0195] - Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;
[0196] - silicones from the Bayer PK range, such as the PK20 product;
[0197] - certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0198] As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R10 to R10 are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
[0199] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:
[0200] - linear or branched C5-C alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
[0201] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.
[0202] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0203] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
[0204] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0205] Examples of fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, lino- leyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0206] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0207] Thus, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 alcohols.
[0208] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the saturated, linear or branched C6-C30 fatty alcohols, saturated, linear or branched C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any saturated, linear or branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may more preferably be used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may even more preferably be used.
[0209] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0210] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and their mixtures.
[0211] It is also preferable that the (e) oil is chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0212] (Preferably, the (e) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short (CrCi2) hydrocarbon chain or chains (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (Ci2-C30) oils such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0213] The (e) oil may be chosen from polar oils, preferably from ester oils, and more preferably ethylhexyl palmitate, artificial triglycerides (for example, caprylic / capric triglyceride) and one of their mixtures.
[0214] The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] Furthermore, the amount of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] The amount of the oil or oils in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0217] (Water)
[0218] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) water.
[0219] The amount (f) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0220] Furthermore, the amount (f) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0221] The quantity (f) of water in the composition according to the present invention may range from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 35% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0222] (pH)
[0223] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 8.0 or less, preferably 7.5 or less, and more preferably 7.0 or less, which is measured at 25°C.
[0224] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 5.0 or more, preferably 5.5 or more, and more preferably 6.0 or more, which is measured at 25°C.
[0225] The composition according to the present invention may have a pH of 5.0 to 8.0, preferably of 5.5 to 7.5, and more preferably of 6.0 to 7.0, which is measured at 25°C.
[0226] Alkaline Agent:
[0227] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0228] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the alkaline agent is non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; and alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0229] Examples of the inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of the alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable.
[0230] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines.
[0231] Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups (Ci-C4). In particular, the alkanolamines may be chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
[0232] Diamines can be described by the structure (B) below: R»\ <B) nw-n" / X Rs
[0233] wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives.
[0234] The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0235] Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] Thus, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.
[0237] Acid:
[0238] The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0239] The acid can be used to correct the pH of the composition according to the present invention.
[0240] As an acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HCl). HCl may be preferable.
[0241] The amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0242] Furthermore, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0243] Thus, the amount of the acid or acids in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0244] [Additional Optional Ingredients]
[0245] The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of additional optional ingredient(s), already known previously in cosmetic compositions, for example, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants; organic powders different from ingredient (d); thickeners different from ingredient (a); sequestering agents such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, for example panthenol; perfumes; plant extracts; etc.
[0246] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.
[0247] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0248] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not comprise a phospholipid. [0251 ] [Preparation and properties]
[0252] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient or ingredients as explained above, and the optional ingredient or ingredients, if any, as explained above.
[0253] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer.
[0254] (Shape)
[0255] The composition according to the present invention can be presented in various forms.
[0256] If the composition according to the present invention includes (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may be, for example, a fluid such as an aqueous solution or a dispersion. The appearance of the composition according to the present invention in this case may be a gel, since the (a) amphiphilic polymer and / or the (b) polysaccharide may function as a thickener.
[0257] If the composition according to the present invention includes (e) oil and (f) water, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion or a W / O emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0258] The composition according to the present invention in the form of an H / W emulsion may comprise dispersed fatty phases such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an H / W gel emulsion.
[0259] The O / W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present disclosure with the O / W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant feeling during use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.
[0260] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a multiple emulsion, such as an O / W / O emulsion or a W / O / W emulsion.
[0261] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention with an O / W architecture or structure may contain a multiple emulsion, such as an O / W / O / W emulsion.
[0262] The appearance of the composition according to the present invention in the form of an emulsion may be a paste or a cream.
[0263] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of 10,000 mPa-s or more, more preferably 15,000 mPa-s or more, and even more preferably 20,000 mPa-s or more. The viscosity can be measured with a type B viscometer (for example, rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, measurement time: 1 minute) at 25°C.
[0264] It is also preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity at 25°C of 200,000 mPa-s or less, more preferably of 150,000 mPa-s or less, and even more preferably of 100,000 mPa-s or less.
[0265] It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity at 25°C of 10,000 mPa-s to 200,000 mPa-s, more preferably of 15,000 mPa-s to 150,000 mPa-s, and even more preferably of 20,000 mPa-s to 100,000 mPa-s.
[0266] [Process and Use]
[0267] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.
[0268] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, of treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or the scalp, by being applied to the keratinous substance.
[0269] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.
[0270] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products, for the skin of the body and / or face and / or mucous membranes and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nails and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows.
[0271] In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as such, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.
[0272] The care product may be a lotion, a cream and the like.
[0273] The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit, in a composition comprising:
[0274] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and
[0275] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one group hydroxyl in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less,
[0276] in order to cause a transformation of texture of the composition when it is applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin, preferably at the beginning of the application, and / or to stabilize the composition.
[0277] The present invention may also relate to a use of (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, in a composition comprising:
[0278] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic motif; and
[0279] (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one group hydroxyl in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less,
[0280] in order to cause a transformation of texture of the composition when it is applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin, preferably at the beginning of the application, and / or to stabilize the composition.
[0281] The present invention may also relate to a use of (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less, in a composition comprising:
[0282] (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic motif; and
[0283] (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms,
[0284] in order to cause a transformation of texture of the composition when it is applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin, preferably at the beginning of the application.
[0285] It is preferable that the amount of (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety with an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less, in the composition according to the present invention is 0.5 wt% or less, more preferably 0.4 wt% or less, and even more preferably 0.3 wt% or less, so that the composition provides a less sticky feel to the touch.
[0286] It may be preferable that the composition employed in the above use according to the present invention includes (d) at least one filler.
[0287] It may be preferable that the composition employed in the above use according to the present invention includes (e) an oil.
[0288] It may be preferable that the composition employed in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) at least one water.
[0289] The explanations concerning the ingredients (a) to (f) of the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those of the above use according to the present invention. EXAMPLES
[0290] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0291] [Example 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4]
[0292] The following compositions, in the form of an O / W emulsion, according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 shown in Table 1 were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows:
[0293] (1) mixing the ingredients of lines A of Table 1 at 75 to 80°C to form a uniform mixture (Phase A);
[0294] (2) adding the ingredient(s) from lines B of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phase A), followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A and B);
[0295] (3) adding 80% of the ingredients of lines C of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phases A and B), followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80% of C);
[0296] (4) cooling the uniform mixture (Phases A, B and 80% of C) to temperature ambient;
[0297] (5) adding the ingredients, if any, from lines D of Table 1 to the mixture uniform (Phases A and B and 80% of C), followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80% of C and D);
[0298] (6) addition of the ingredient of line E of Table 1 to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80% of C and D), followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80% of C, D and E) with a pH of 6.5;
[0299] (7) mixture of 20% by weight of the ingredients of lines C of Table 1 and of the ingredients, where applicable, from row F of Table 1, followed by their homogenization to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases 20% of C and F); and
[0300] (8) adding the uniform mixture (Phases 20% of C and F) to the uniform mixture (Phases A, B, 80% of C, D and E) gradually with a propeller mixer to obtain a uniform mixture (Phases A, B, C, D, E and F) as a composition according to any one of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4.
[0301] The numerical values of the component quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” of raw materials.
[0302] [Tables 1] Phase A Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 1 Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Glycerin 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 Propanediol 1 1 1 1 1 1 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Caprylyl glycol 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (0 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 B (a) Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 0.2 0.2 (b) Sclerotium gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 0.1 C (e) Caprylic / capric triglyceride 20 20 20 20 20 20 (e) Ethylhexyl palmitate 20 20 20 20 20 20 D (d) Silica - 4.5 - - - - (d) Zea Mays (corn) starch - 3 - - - - E Sodium hydroxide Qs PH 6.5 Qs PH 6.5 Qs pH 6.5 Qs pH 6.5 QspH 6.5 Qs pH 6.5 F (c) Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (HLB:5) 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 - - (c) Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate (HLB:3.3) 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 - - Polyglyceryl-5 laurate (HLB:10.9) - - - - - 1.2 Viscosity (mPa.s) 6618 6 6987 5 NA 52884 52948 65786 Texture transformation Very good Very good Very poor Poor Poor Poor Non-sticky feel Good Very good Good Good Good Good Stability Very good Very good Very poor Poor Very good Very good
[0303] ND: Not Available
[0304] [Evaluations]
[0305] (Viscosity)
[0306] The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was measured at room temperature (25°C) with a type B viscometer under the rotor conditions: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, and measurement time: 1 minute.
[0307] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0308] (Texture Transformation)
[0309] Five professional panelists evaluated the “texture transformation” during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4. Each panelist took each composition and applied it in a circular manner to their face. The panelists evaluated the moment when the texture transformation (from cream to liquid) occurred and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:
[0310] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (texture transformation is clearly felt at the beginning of the application)
[0311] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (texture transformation is felt at the beginning of the application)
[0312] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (texture transformation is barely noticeable at the beginning of the application)
[0313] Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0 (texture transformation is not felt at all at the beginning of the application)
[0314] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0315] (Non-sticky feeling)
[0316] Five professional panelists evaluated the "non-sticky feeling" after applying the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to their face to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:
[0317] Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (the stickiness is not felt at all after application)
[0318] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (the stickiness is barely felt after application)
[0319] Bad: From 2.9 to 2.0 (stickiness is felt after application)
[0320] Very poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (the stickiness is clearly felt after application)
[0321] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0322] (Stability)
[0323] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 was poured into a glass bottle and kept under temperature change conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then investigated in terms of degree of change (appearance, color and odor) and was evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:
[0324] Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.
[0325] Good: Few changes in appearance, color, and odor were observed.
[0326] Bad: Changes in appearance, color, and odor have been clearly observed.
[0327] Very bad: Changes in appearance, color and odor have been significantly noticed.
[0328] The results are shown in Table 1.
[0329] (Summary)
[0330] As is evident from Table 1, the composition according to the present invention (Examples 1 and 2) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation; non-sticky feeling; and stability in case of temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a) to (c). Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, excellent hand feeling and stability for a long time, even in the event of temperature changes.
[0331] The composition according to Example 2 is more preferable than the composition according to Example 1, due to the presence of ingredient (d) (filler), in terms of non-sticky feeling after application.
[0332] Furthermore, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include ingredient (a) (amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit) showed inferior texture transformation, as well as instability. In addition, the viscosity of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 could not be measured due to phase separation.
[0333] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include ingredient (b) (microorganism-derived polysaccharide) showed inferior texture transformation, as well as instability.
[0334] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which did not include ingredient (c) (a low HLB fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety) showed inferior texture transformation.
[0335] The composition according to Comparative Example 4 which did not include ingredient (c) but included a high HLB fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety showed inferior texture transformation.
Claims
Claims
1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising: (a) at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit; (b) at least one polysaccharide derived from microorganisms; and (c) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety, wherein the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in the polyglyceryl moiety has an HLB value of 7.0 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and more preferably 6.0 or less.
2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit consists of C8-30 alkyl (meth)acrylate and at least one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their esters.
3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is crosslinked.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a) amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit is selected from the group consisting of acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylate / ethylhexyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, C8-22 alkyl acrylate / methacrylic acid crosslinked polymer, potassium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, sodium acrylate / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, and a mixture thereof.
5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) microorganism-derived polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, and a mixture thereof.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety is selected from polyglyceryl polyricinoleates, fatty acid polyglyceryl esters
7.
8.
9.
10. derivatives of two or more fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) fatty acid polyglyceryl ester having at least one hydroxyl group in its polyglyceryl moiety is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, and a mixture thereof. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one filler. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one oil. A cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.