ECO-BIOLOGICAL GEL MAKE-UP REMOVER

Abstract

The invention relates to an aqueous topical makeup-removing composition, advantageously ecobiological, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, said composition comprising: - at least one surfactant; - at least one citric acid ester; as well as its use, in particular in a process for removing makeup, cleansing the skin, lips and / or hair.

Description

Title of the invention: ECO-BIOLOGICAL GEL-BASED MAKE-UP REMOVER COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic care, and more particularly to aqueous gel-based makeup-removing compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to a composition for topical application and its use, particularly in a makeup removal process, for cleansing the skin, lips and / or hair, eyes and eyelids. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Facial makeup removers and cleansers are available in the form of oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, biphasic products, aqueous micellar lotions and micellar gels, and anhydrous or essentially anhydrous oily products. It is recognized that the deepest makeup removal is achieved using W / O emulsions, biphasic products, and anhydrous oily products, because the oily phase is readily available to dissolve the various oils present on the skin or from makeup. Indeed, in the case of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, the oily phase is the internal phase and is therefore not readily available to dissolve oils and lipophilic impurities. However, while very effective, oil-based makeup removers are not always preferred by consumers due to the oily film they inevitably leave on the skin.This drawback can be avoided by using micellar waters and gels, which are considered very practical because no rinsing is necessary, provided the formula is well-tolerated by the skin and eyes. However, micellar waters, which have a viscosity similar to water, must be applied using a cloth or wipe. Micellar waters tend to saturate this cloth or wipe, resulting in considerable product loss during application. Micellar gels and syndets with low concentrations of surfactants do not present these problems because, firstly, they can be applied directly with the fingers, which also reduces waste; secondly, even when using a makeup removal cloth or wipe, micellar gels and syndets remain on the surface of the fabric due to their viscosity, allowing for more complete and responsible use of the product.Despite this advantage, these products remain uncommon, as this formulation does not allow for deep makeup removal comparable to that achieved with micellar water.

[0003] There therefore remains an obvious need to develop makeup-removing jellies that are skin-friendly, well-tolerated and at the same time effective in their skin-cleansing action. DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0004] The Applicant has observed that the invention provides a solution to all the technical problems defined above. In particular, the Applicant has observed that, surprisingly, several citric acid esters significantly improve the makeup removal obtained using viscous aqueous micellar compositions, making this dosage form suitable for use as a makeup remover instead of micellar waters.

[0005] Thus, the invention relates to an aqueous topical makeup remover composition, advantageously ecobiological, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, said composition comprising:

[0006] - at least one surfactant; - at least one citric acid ester.

[0007] In the context of the invention, the term "ecobiological approach" refers to the particular approach initiated and developed by the inventor which combines skin biology and ecology to help the skin live according to its natural biology, in the long term.

[0008] In the context of the invention, the terms "ecobiological composition," "ecobiological compound," "ecobiological ingredient," "ecobiological active ingredient," or "ecobiological excipient" respectively refer to a composition, compound, ingredient, or excipient that is respectful of the individual, their interactions with the world, and the planet. In particular, they refer to a composition, compound, ingredient, active ingredient, or excipient that is respectful of the living cell communities that constitute the skin (i.e., skin microbiota, keratinocytes, sebocytes, fibroblasts, etc.) which constantly interact with each other and with their environment.

[0009] In the context of the invention, "O / W emulsifier" means a compound having emulsifying properties that allow oil-in-water emulsions to be made.

[0010] In the context of the invention, "oil-in-water emulsifier" means a compound having emulsifying properties that allow water-in-oil emulsions to be made.

[0011] In the context of the invention, "two-phase composition" or "two-phase composition", or even "two-phase treatment", or "two-phase composition" or "two-phase" or "three-phase" refers to a composition in the form of two phases, or where applicable, three continuous and immiscible phases, advantageously, in the In the case of biphasic compositions, the oil phase and the aqueous phase are involved. Biphasic compositions can give rise to extemporaneous emulsions when shaken, but they differ from classic emulsions in that at rest they undergo a phase separation as a result of which the two phases, advantageously the oil phase and the aqueous phase, are separated.

[0012] In the context of the invention, "molecular weight (Mw)" means the average molecular weight by weight (Mw or Molecular Weight) of a compound or polymer.

[0013] In the context of the invention, "composition for cutaneous application" or "for topical use" means a composition compatible with application to the skin, mucous membranes, hair and / or scalp, preferably human skin.

[0014] For the purposes of this invention, "transparent composition" means a composition that transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without scattering it; that is, a composition in which the diffraction angle of light is less than 5°, or ideally around 0°. Several methods for measuring light transmission, using for example a spectrophotometer, are known to those skilled in the art.

[0015] For the purposes of this invention, "HLB" means hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (or HLB), which is a universally recognized measure of the hydrophilicity of surfactants. The scale ranges from 0 to 20, with HLB being calculated according to Griffin's formula:

[0016] HLB=l / 5*((molecular mass of the hydrophilic part) / (total molecular mass))* 100

[0017] Lower values ​​correspond to lipophilic molecules, higher values ​​to hydrophilic molecules. HLB values ​​can be determined experimentally using methods known to those skilled in the art. It should be noted that all HLB values ​​given in this application are approximate experimental values ​​that may vary slightly with changes in the composition of a given surfactant.

[0018] In the sense of the invention, the measurement of the dynamic viscosity of the composition can be carried out according to the methods known to the person skilled in the art; by way of example, the dynamic viscosity can be measured with a Brookfield DV-II+ viscometer, mobile 3, at room temperature (25°C) and at a pressure of 1 ATM.

[0019] For the purposes of this invention, "active material" applied to surfactants means the proportion of a raw material that actually corresponds to the population of surfactants collectively indicated by 1TNCI.

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, "jelly" or "micellar jelly" means a composition consisting exclusively of an aqueous phase, and therefore essentially devoid of an oily phase, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, and wherein at least one surfactant represents <10% of the active ingredient composition, advantageously <6% by weight of the composition, and said composition comprises >70% water by weight of the composition, advantageously >80% water by weight of the composition. A micellar gel can therefore be distinguished from a cleansing gel, which may have comparable viscosities but contains a higher proportion of surfactants relative to the water content. A gel may consist of a plurality of gelled phases.

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, "essentially devoid of an oil phase" means a composition containing <3%, advantageously <2%, of an oil phase by weight of the total composition. Limited amounts of the oil phase may be provided by the ingredients of the composition, for example, surfactants. For the purposes of this invention, the citric acid esters according to the invention, which are lipophilic, should not be considered as constituents of the oil phase.

[0022] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has the following additional technical characteristics, taken alone or in combination:

[0023] -the composition according to the invention is transparent;

[0024] - the composition according to the invention is environmentally friendly, advantageously, it is free from non-biodegradable compounds and / or compounds whose method of obtaining has harmful impacts on the environment;

[0025] - At least one citric acid ester is represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0026] [Chem.l] ÇH2C(0)”ORt R4O-“ÇHC(O)--QR^ CH2C(Q)—OR3

[0027] wherein Rb R2 and R3 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C30 hydrocarbon group, or a saturated or unsaturated C3-C30 cyclic hydrocarbon group, wherein at least one of the Rb R2 and R3 is not a hydrogen atom,

[0028] and R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an R'4-CO- group in which R'4 represents a CrC8 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or a C3-C8 cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated;

[0029] -at least one citric acid ester according to the invention is selected from triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetylcitrate and a mixture of these;

[0030] - at least one citric acid ester is triethyl citrate; by way of non-limiting examples:

[0031] triethyl citrate may correspond to the CITROFOL™ AI cosmetic raw material marketed by Jungbunzlauer and corresponding to the INCI designation triethyl citrate;

[0032] Tributyl acetylcitrate may correspond to the CITROFOL™ BI cosmetic raw material marketed by Jungbunzlauer and corresponding to the INCI designation Tributyl O-acetylcitrate;

[0033] triethyl acetylcitrate may correspond to the CITROFOL™ Garlic cosmetic raw material marketed by the Jungbunzlauer company and corresponding to the INCI designation Triethyl O-acetylcitrate;

[0034] - at least one citric acid ester according to the invention, advantageously citrate triethyl represents between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition;

[0035] - the composition according to the invention is free of acrylates and / or surfactants polyethoxylated;

[0036] - the composition according to the invention consists of a plurality of gelled phases (example, bigel, trigel)

[0037] - the composition according to the invention is devoid of a fatty phase;

[0038] -the composition according to the invention has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees centigrade and at a pressure of 1 ATM of less than 20000 cP, advantageously less than 15000 cP;

[0039] - the composition according to the invention comprises at least one phase gelling agent aqueous, advantageously chosen from xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus extract or carrageenan, gellan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, sclerotium gum, microcrystalline cellulose, Amorphophallus konjac gum, acacia gum from Senegal, Ceratonia siliqua gum, pectin, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, agar, alginates, pectin, gum arabic, tragacanth, karaya gum and ghatti gum, carboxymethylcellulose, even more advantageously sclerotium gum and xanthan gum;

[0040] -at least one aqueous phase gelling agent represents between 0.01 and 5% by weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.1% and 2% by weight of the composition;

[0041] -at least one surfactant in the composition according to the invention has an HLB value >8, advantageously >10;

[0042] - at least one surfactant in the composition according to the invention is chosen from among the polyglycerol esters, fatty acid and sugar esters, alkyl polyglucosides and amphoteric surfactants;

[0043] - the composition according to the invention contains at least two surfactants, advantageously chosen from among polyglycerol esters and alkyl polyglucosides;

[0044] - the polyglycerol ester according to the invention comprises 3 to 10 glycerols, advantageously 5 to 6 glycerols, and / or 1 to 3 saturated or unsaturated fatty acids;

[0045] -the fatty acids according to the invention are advantageously saturated fatty acids, more preferably chosen from lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, capric, caprylic, isostearic and oleic acid;

[0046] -the polyglycerol ester according to the invention is selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-2 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 tricaprylate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-6 isostearate;

[0047] - the alkylpolyglucoside according to the invention is chosen from the group constituting by: (C12-C20)alkylpolyglucoside, (C8-C16)alkylpolyglucoside, (C8-C10)alkylpolyglucoside, (C12-C16)alkylpolyglucoside, (C12-C14)alkylpolyglucoside, (C12-C14)alkylpolyglucoside, their mixtures;

[0048] -the alkylpolyglucoside according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of: coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside-lauryl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, caprylyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, hexadecyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, ethyl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, octadecyl D-glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, undecyl glucoside, and their mixtures.

[0049] By way of non-limiting examples,

[0050] -coco-glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name Plantacare 818™ of BASF or BergaSoft CG 50 / MB of Berg + Schmidt or Sucranov 818UP of Jarchem; -coco-glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name Lamesoft PO 65 and corresponding to the INCI designations aqua / water / eau & coco-glucoside & glyceryl oleate & citric acid & tocopherol & hydrogenated palm glycerides citrate; Decyl glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name of BASF or BergaSoft CG 50 / MB from Berg + Schmidt or Sucranov 818UP from Jarchem; Lauryl glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade names Plantacare 1200 by BASF, BergaSoft LG 50 / MB by Berg + Schmidt, or Sucranov 1200 UP by Jarchem; and caprylyl / capryl glucoside may correspond to the cosmetic raw material marketed under the trade name BergaSoft CCG 70 / MB from Berg + Schmidt, Sucranov 810 UP from Jarchem or PLANTACARE 810 UP from BASF and their mixtures;

[0051] -the composition according to the invention contains at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one polyglycerol ester;

[0052] - the amphoteric surfactants according to the invention are chosen from among the alkyl(C8- C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; preferably among alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof, advantageously sodium cocoamphoacetate and disodium cocoamphodiacetate; - The composition according to the invention contains polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and sodium cocoamphoacetate; by way of non-limiting examples: - the polyglycerol ester according to the invention can correspond to the raw material TEGOSOLVE™ 90 MB marketed by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH and corresponding to the INCI designations POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE & POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE & AQUA / WATER / EAU; - the amphoteric surfactant may correspond to the raw material REWOTERIC™ AM C MB marketed by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH and corresponding to the INCI designations AQUA / WATER / EAU & SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE;

[0053] -the composition according to the invention contains at least two alkylpolyglucosides;

[0054] - at least one surfactant according to the invention represents <10% of the composition according to the invention in active matter, advantageously <6% by weight of the composition;

[0055] - the composition according to the invention comprises >70% water by weight of the composition, advantageously > 80%, even more advantageously >85%; - the composition according to the invention is free from any listed preservative; -the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkanediol, preferably chosen from 1,2-alkanediols or 1,3-alkanediols or mixtures thereof; - at least one alkanediol is chosen from the group comprising compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-heptanediol; By way of non-limiting examples, the alkanediols to be used in the compositions according to the invention may correspond to:

[0056] EVO-100™ marketed by ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY and corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol; ZEMEA™ marketed by DUPONT-TATE & LYLE BIOPRODUCTS and corresponding to the INCI designation 1,2-propanediol; DUB DIOL™ marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS and corresponding to the INCI designation 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol; Hydrolite-5™, Hydrolite-6™, Hydrolite-7™ GREEN, Hydrolite-8™ and SymClariol 344028™ marketed by the company SYMRISE and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, caprylyl glycol and 1,2-decanediol; -at least one alkanediol, advantageously 1,3-propanediol, represents between 0.001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 1%; - the composition according to the invention further comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone; - p-hydroxyacetophenone may correspond to the SYMSAVE H raw material marketed by the company SYMRISE GMBH and corresponding to the INCI designation hydroxyacetophenone; - p-hydroxyacetophenone represents between 0.001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 1%; - the composition according to the invention further comprises Sodium Levulinate and / or Sodium anisate; Sodium levulinate and / or sodium anisate represent overall between 0.001% and 2% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0.01% and 1%;

[0057] Sodium levulinate and / or sodium anisate may correspond to the raw material dermosoft® 1388 ECO marketed by EVONIK GMBH and corresponding to the INCI designation Aqua & Sodium Levulinate & Sodium Anisate; - the composition according to the invention further comprises adjuvants such as those commonly used in the cosmetics industry, such as antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, perfumes, fillers, electrolytes, odor absorbers, and colorants. The choice of these adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be determined in such a way that they do not alter the properties and advantages sought for the composition according to the invention; - the composition according to the invention is a makeup-removing composition or a composition for cleaning and / or caring for keratinous surfaces, preferably the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages (i.e. hair, eyelashes, body hair and nails); - The composition according to the invention, being intended for topical application, contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The composition may, in particular, be a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

[0058] The invention also relates to the topical use of a composition as defined above.

[0059] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing makeup, cleansing the skin, mucous membranes and hair, comprising the topical application of a composition as defined above.

[0060] The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the resulting advantages will be more apparent from the following implementation examples, given by way of illustration and not limitation.

[0061] The following examples form an integral part of the invention and any feature which appears to be new in relation to the prior art is claimed as such and as a general means. DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0062] Fig. 1 shows the in vivo evaluation on 10 volunteers of the makeup-removing efficacy of 4 different compositions according to the invention and according to the prior art. EXAMPLES OF ACHIEVEMENTS

[0063] Example I - Formulation of a gelled makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0064] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 1.

[0065] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] [Tables 1] INCI Name Mixed % INCI AQUA / WATER / EAU 86.84 GLYCERIN 3.00 TRIETHYL CITRATE 3.00 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE 1.575 POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE 1.575 SODIUM COCOAMPHOACETATE 1.56 SODIUM CITRATE 1.00 XANTHAN GUM 0.70 CITRIC ACID 0.50 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.25

[0067] The composition of example I has a dynamic viscosity of 6600 cPs (M3V6).

[0068] Example II Formulation of a gelled makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0069] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 2.

[0070] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] [Tables2] Mixed INCI Name % INCI AQUA / WATER / EAU 77.9463 CAPRYLYL / CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE 6.50 GLYCERIN 5.00 TRIETHYL CITRATE 3.00 METHYLPROPANEDIOL 2.00 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 1.50 GLYCERYL OLEATE 1.50 XANTHAN GUM 1.00 CITRIC ACID 0.5511 SODIUM CITRATE 0.5011 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.50 TOCOPHEROL 0.001 HYDROGENATED PALM GLYCERIDES CITRATE 0.0005

[0072] The composition of example II has a dynamic viscosity of 11000 cP (M3V6).

[0073] Example III Formulation of a gelled makeup-removing cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0074] A composition according to the invention is described in Table 3.

[0075] The percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] [Tables3] Mixed INCI Name % INCI AQUA / WATER / EAU 80.60 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.00 CAPRYLYL / CAPRYL GLUCOSIDE 3.25 GLYCERIN 3.00 TRIETHYL CITRATE 3.00 COCO-BETAINE 1.50 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.00 SODIUM CITRATE 1.00 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.70 CITRIC ACID 0.60 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.35

[0077] The composition of example III has a dynamic viscosity of >5000 cP. (M3V6).

[0078] Example IV comparative tests - in vivo makeup removal efficacy IV-1 Objective of the study

[0079] The objective of the study is to compare the in vivo makeup-removing power of different compositions according to the prior art and according to the invention. IV-2 Materials and methods IV-2.1 Equipment

[0080] - Pasteur plastic pipettes;

[0081] - "Demak'up" cotton pads;

[0082] - Finger cots;

[0083] - Waterproof Mascara: "GEMEY MAYBELLINE - Great Lash Waterproof lot very black.26X500",

[0084] - Chromameter® CR400 (Konica Minolta),

[0085] - CLS software (Monaderm),

[0086] - Excel software (Microsoft 365). IV-2.2 Inclusion of volunteers Exclusion criteria

[0087] • Sex: female;

[0088] • Age: between 18 and 75 years;

[0089] • Subjects with all skin types on the inside of the forearms, phototype I to IV, hairless and with very few moles.

[0090] General

[0091] • Healthy subjects;

[0092] • The subjects gave their free, informed and written consent;

[0093] • Subjects willing to adhere to the study protocol and procedure. Exclusion criteria

[0094] • Pregnant woman, breastfeeding woman or woman planning to become pregnant during the study;

[0095] • Skin pathology on the study areas;

[0096] • Use of a topical or systemic treatment during the weeks previous factors likely to disrupt the evaluation of the effectiveness of the product under study;

[0097] • Subject who has taken anti-inflammatory drugs or corticosteroids during the previous week of study, or retinoids (Roaccutane) during the previous 3 weeks of study by systemic administration;

[0098] • Excessive exposure to sunlight or UV rays during the previous month;

[0099] • Subject enrolled in another clinical trial during the study period (on the same areas studied);

[0100] • A large tattoo that does not leave enough bare skin for the measures.

[0101] - 11 subjects included

[0102] - 11 subjects completing the study

[0103] - 10 subjects analyzed: one subject was excluded from the analysis due to outliers. IV-2.3 Test and Measurement Method T0#:

[0104] - The subjects come to the laboratory without having applied any moisturizing product to their forearms in the days preceding the study (cleansers are not included),

[0105] - They are informed of the objectives of the trial, the procedure and the risks of the study,

[0106] - They sign the consent form,

[0107] - The technician verifies the inclusion and exclusion criteria,

[0108] - Determination of 5 measurement zones (using a 3x3cm template) on the front- arms (to avoid aberrant measurements, avoid as much as possible: hair, moles, veins...)

[0109] - Measurements of the baseline state of skin color on the 5 zones at three points different (T0), using the Chromameter™ CR400 device.

[0110] - Application of 20ml of waterproof mascara to the areas,

[0111] - Allow to air dry (5 min). Tl#:

[0112] - New color measurements at three different points on each zone (Tl) at using the Chromameter™ CR400 device,

[0113] For the lotion:

[0114] - Application of 2mL of product onto one side of a cotton ball,

[0115] - Remove makeup by 6 passes with the first side, then 6 more passes with the other side cotton side (12 passes in total),

[0116] - Air dry. T2#:

[0117] - New color measurements at three different points on each zone (T2) at using the Chromameter™ CR400 device,

[0118] - The subjects sign the discharge form.

[0119] Ambient conditions during the acclimatization period and measurements:

[0120] - ambient temperature: 20-22°C;

[0121] - relative humidity: 40-60% IV-2.4 Tested Formulas

[0122] The following formulas were tested (see table 4); the percentages indicated correspond to the weight of the product indicated in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] [Tables4] ...... fias formula 1 form 2 E oraiaie 3 formula 4 AQUA^WATERiEAU 89.84 86184 90.54 87.54 3=00- 3=00 1.575 1.575 1.575 & POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE 1.575 1.575 1575 1.575 CITRICACID 0.59 CÂ0 0.50 9.59 llllll^ llllllli® ■IBi liiiM lilllllM III-2.5 Statistical analyses

[0124] Calculation formulas:

[0125] The percentage variations on the mean (A%) are calculated according to the following formulas:

[0126] A% = 1 - # (T 2 -T o) / (T! -T o)#

[0127] A%= % without makeup

[0128] To: Measurement of initial skin color before makeup;

[0129] Ti: Measurement after makeup: waterproof mascara;

[0130] T2: Measurement after 12 cotton passes;

[0131] Statistical analyses:

[0132] The principle of the Student's t-test consists of posing a null hypothesis (H0) of no difference between the effect before and after treatment (= 0) and an alternative hypothesis H1 (our research hypothesis) of a difference before and after treatment ( <> 0),

[0133] We then determine the probability p of observing a difference before and after treatment at least as large as that which was observed if the null hypothesis is true.

[0134] - Sip < 5%, the null hypothesis is rejected. Therefore, the alternative hypothesis H1 of a significant difference before and after treatment is accepted.

[0135] -Sip>5%, the null hypothesis is accepted. The data did not show a significant difference before and after treatment.

[0136] A Student's t-test was performed to compare the effects produced with an untreated area. III-3 Results and conclusions

[0137] The results of the test are reported in graph form in [Fig. 1].

[0138] The inclusion of a citric acid ester, in particular triethyl citrate, in a non-viscous micellar composition (i.e., having the same viscosity as water) comprising at least one surfactant, has a modest positive impact on the effectiveness of makeup removal (% of makeup removed) which increases from 41% to 55%, with an improvement of 33.9% ([Fig.1]; formula 3 and formula 4).

[0139] Surprisingly, the same test, carried out on similar formulas (in particular, comprising the same concentrations of the same surfactants and other main excipients) but having a dynamic viscosity measured at 25 degrees centigrade and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, shows an improvement in the effectiveness of makeup removal of 90.8% as a result of the addition of a citric acid ester, in particular triethyl citrate (% of makeup removed = from 21.8% to 41.6%; [Fig. 1]; formula 1 and formula 2).

[0140] It can be concluded that the inclusion of a citric acid ester, in particular triethyl citrate, in a composition comprising at least one surfactant and having a dynamic viscosity measured at 25 degrees Celsius and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, therefore makes it possible to achieve the makeup removal efficiency obtained for the non-viscous formula in the absence of citric acid ester.

Claims

Demands

1. Aqueous topical makeup-removing composition, advantageously ecobiological, having a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25 degrees centigrade and at a pressure of 1 ATM greater than 2000 cP, advantageously greater than 4000 cP, said composition comprising: - at least one surfactant; - at least one citric acid ester.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one citric acid ester is selected from triethyl citrate, tributyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, triethyl acetylcitrate, tributyl acetylcitrate, tri(2-ethylhexyl) acetylcitrate and a mixture thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one citric acid ester is triethyl citrate.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one citric acid ester represents between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the composition, advantageously between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is free of acrylates and polyethoxylated surfactants.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is essentially devoid of fat phase.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is transparent.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one aqueous-phase gelling agent, advantageously selected from xanthan gum, Chondrus crispus extract or carrageenan, gellan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, cellulose gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sclerotium gum, microcrystalline cellulose, Amorphophallus konjac gum, acacia gum Senegal, Ceratonia siliqua gum, pectin, Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum, agar, alginates, pectin, gum arabic, tragacanth, karaya gum and ghatti gum, carboxymethylcellulose, and even more advantageously sclerotium gum and xanthan gum

9. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that at least one aqueous phase gelling agent represents between 0.01 and 5% by weight of the composition, advantageously between 0.1% and 2% by weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one surfactant is selected from polyglycerol esters, fatty acid and sugar esters, alkyl polyglucosides and amphoteric surfactants;

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one surfactant has an HLB value >8, advantageously >10.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least two surfactants, advantageously selected from polyglycerol esters and alkyl polyglucosides.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one polyglycerol ester and an amphoteric surfactant.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and sodium cocoamphoacetate.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one surfactant represents <10% of the composition by active matter, advantageously <6% by weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises >70% water by weight of composition, advantageously >80% water.

17. A cosmetic method for removing makeup, cleansing the skin, mucous membranes and hair, comprising the topical application of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16.

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