Composition comprising a combination of at least one fatty substance, an oxidation coupler and a mineral alkaline agent

A composition with fatty substances and mineral alkaline agents, combined with oxidation couplers, addresses the inefficiencies of traditional hair dye compositions by providing intense and uniform color coverage on keratin fibers, including white hair, without relying on high levels of oxidation bases.

FR3163840A1Pending Publication Date: 2026-01-02LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024007031
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-06-28
Publication Date
2026-01-02

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing hair dye compositions using oxidation bases are not entirely satisfactory in terms of dyeing power, intensity, and coverage of white hair, necessitating a need for improved efficiency and reduced use of certain dyes like para-phenylenediamines.

Method used

A composition comprising at least 20% fatty substances and mineral alkaline agents, along with oxidation couplers, without oxidation bases, for coloring keratin fibers, enhancing dye uptake and coverage.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves powerful, intense, and homogeneous coloration with good coverage of white hair, even after storage, while potentially reducing the need for high-dye concentrations.

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Abstract

A composition comprising the combination of at least one fat, an oxidation coupler, and a mineral alkali agent. The invention relates to a composition comprising the combination of one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more oxidation couplers, one or more mineral alkali agents, the composition being free of oxidation base.
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Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising the combination of at least one fatty substance, an oxidation coupler and a mineral alkaline agent

[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising the association of a fat in a particular content, an oxidation coupler and a mineral alkali agent, the composition being free of oxidation base.

[0002] The invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.

[0003] For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to cover their white hair.

[0004] It is known to dye keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colors with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones, or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise, through an oxidative condensation process, to colored compounds.

[0005] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with color couplers or modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors.

[0006] The permanent coloring process therefore consists of applying bases or a mixture of bases and couplers to the keratin fibers with hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, allowing diffusion, and then rinsing the fibers. The resulting colors have the advantage of being permanent, powerful, and resistant to external agents, particularly light, weathering, washing, perspiration, and friction.

[0007] However, efforts are still underway to increase the efficiency of the reaction of the oxidation dyes used in this process in order to improve their uptake on keratin fibers. Indeed, such an improvement would make it possible, in particular, to reduce the levels of oxidation dyes present in the dye compositions and / or to eliminate the need for certain families of dyes, especially para-phenylenediamines such as para-phenylenediamine and para-toluenediamine. e, and to use other families of dyes with lower tinting power, while still obtaining good coloring performance.

[0008] In this regard, it has already been proposed to eliminate the need for oxidation bases by using only couplers, possibly boosted by metallic catalysts, but this type of process does not provide complete satisfaction from the point of view of dyeing properties. The dyeing power obtained is not yet entirely satisfactory.

[0009] There is a real need to make available a coloring composition for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above, i.e. which is capable of leading to intense coloring with good tenacity as well as good coverage of white hair and good selectivity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a period of storage.

[0010] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more mineral alkaline agents; - one or more oxidation dyes chosen from the oxidation couplers; the composition being free of oxidation base.

[0011] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0012] The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers in which the composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers.

[0013] The composition according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to produce powerful, intense and non-selective colorations, that is to say, colorations that are homogeneous along the fiber. It also allows for good color development.

[0014] This composition also makes it possible to cover depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair, particularly well.

[0015] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.

[0016] By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

[0017] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0018] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0019] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". Fatty body

[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] The term "fatty substance" refers to an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0022] Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0023] Preferably the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0024] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0025] Preferably, the fats according to the invention are different from fatty acids.

[0026] The useful fatty substances according to the invention can be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fats.

[0027] Liquid fat means a fat having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) and solid fat means a fat having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0029] More particularly, the liquid fat or fats according to the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Cl6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0030] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0031] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0032] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0033] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0034] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0035] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M; or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by the Company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0036] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0038] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0039] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0040] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0041] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

[0042] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0043] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0044] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0045] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0046] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0047] These esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0048] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0050] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0051] The silicone oils usable in composition A according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10-6 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.10-5 at 1 m2 / s.

[0052] Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0053] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

[0054] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0055] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from: (i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7, preferably 4 to 5, silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed notably under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as mixtures thereof. We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE. We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimed thylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

[0056] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0057] These silicone oils are more specifically chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main ones are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0058] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example: - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0059] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

[0060] Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.

[0061] With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0062] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.105 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0063] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names: - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series by RHODIA; - the oils from the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; - silicones from the PK series by BAYER such as the PK20 product; - silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0064] Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in Cl to C4; - alkoxylated groups, - hydroxyl groups.

[0065] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.

[0066] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0067] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0068] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0069] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0070] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0071] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is cetearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0072] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0073] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0074] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0075] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0077] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and a microscopically homogeneous mixture can be formed, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a homogeneous mixture is obtained. a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0078] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

[0079] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0080] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0081] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0082] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8 to C32. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0083] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol can also be used, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

[0084] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0085] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; examples include camauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by MICRO POWDERS.

[0086] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0087] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0088] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCORi), in which: Ri designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0089] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in C16-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in Cl5.

[0090] Preferably, ceramides are used in which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0091] Compounds can also be used in which Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0092] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0093] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters and their mixtures, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols.

[0094] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the liquid fat(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petroleum jelly, liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0096] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

[0097] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats and one or more solid fats, preferably at least one liquid hydrocarbon comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and at least one solid fatty alcohol.

[0098] Preferably, the total content of the fat or fats is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the total content of the liquid fat(s) selected from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oxidation couplers

[0101] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers (or coupling agent).

[0102] Among oxidation couplers, particular mention may be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.

[0103] Examples include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethox pyridine, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-, methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures, the solvates, the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.

[0104] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from among the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

[0105] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers selected from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, preferably again from 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0106] The addition salts of the oxidation couplers are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, amines or alkanolamines.

[0107] Preferably, the content of oxidation couplers varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0108] The composition according to the invention is free of oxidation base, that is to say it comprises less than 0.001% by weight of total oxidation base, preferably less than 0.0001% by weight, even better comprises none at all (0%).

[0109] Such oxidation bases are, for example, para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts.

[0110] Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2- isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(p,Y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

[0111] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples include N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

[0112] Among the para-aminophenols, examples include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

[0113] Among the ortho-aminophenols, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

[0114] Among the heterocyclic bases, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.

[0115] Among the pyridine derivatives are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and their solvates.

[0116] Other pyridine oxidation bases are also found, for example the oxidation bases of 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2- acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, the 3,4-Diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine;2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; the corresponding addition salts and their solvates.

[0117] Among the pyrimidine derivatives are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0118] Among the pyrazole derivatives are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-ipyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methyl-ipyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole,4-Amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(|3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, the corresponding addition salts and solvates. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be mentioned.

[0119] Among the pyrazole derivatives, we can also mention the diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1H)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-diliydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyra zol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetraliydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one. , Mineral alkaline agent

[0120] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more mineral alkali agents.

[0121] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalizing agent" are used interchangeably.

[0122] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or hydrogen carbonates (or bicarbonates) of ammonium, of alkali or alkaline earth metals, phosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, hydroxides of alkali or alkaline earth metals, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals and mixtures thereof.

[0123] Ammonium, alkali metal or alkaline earth carbonates and hydrogen carbonates may be selected from sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium, potassium, ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0124] Alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates may be selected from sodium phosphates, potassium phosphates and mixtures thereof.

[0125] The hydroxides of alkali or alkaline-earth metals can be selected from sodium, potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof.

[0126] Alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates may be selected from sodium silicates, in particular sodium metasilicate, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] Preferably, the mineral alkali agent is ammonium hydroxide.

[0128] The total content of the mineral alkali agent(s) varies preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 15% by weight, even better from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0129] The total ammonium hydroxide content varies preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, better from 2 to 15% by weight, even better from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

[0130] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants.

[0131] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.

[0132] These may preferably be chosen from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

[0133] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from among the following groups: CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22, POH and PO-.

[0134] By way of examples of anionic surfactants usable in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(Cl-C4)-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarbyl acids, acylactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds;The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally consist of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group generally designates a phenyl group.

[0135] These compounds can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0136] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0137] When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0138] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0139] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0140] Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, i.e. without sulfate function.

[0141] With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples may be given to the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; uronic alkyl D galactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and alkyl polyglycosides carboxylic esters.

[0142] In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

[0143] Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulfated surfactants such as alkylsulfates or alkyl ether sulfates and acylglutamates are preferred, more preferably sulfated anionic surfactants, and even more preferably alkylsulfates.

[0144] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0145] Examples of non-ionic surfactants include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols; - alcohols in the C8 to C40 range, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, preferably include one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - fatty acid and sucrose esters, - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated; - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and sorbitan, - C8-C30 fatty acid esters and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucosides esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - amine oxides.

[0146] They are chosen, in particular, from among alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Cl-C20)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.

[0147] Other examples include ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs; polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; oxyethylenated vegetable oils; N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0148] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0149] Esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan are preferably selected from C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, preferably still 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0150] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) is / are selected from C12-C18 fatty acid and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular from oxyethylenated lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid and stearic acid and sorbitan esters.

[0151] Preferably, the C8-C30 fatty acid ester(s) and oxyethylenated sorbitan is / are selected from oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-21), oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-20), oxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-40), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-60), oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 EO) (POLYSORBATE-61), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 EO) (POLYSORBATE-80), oxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (5 EO) (POLYSORBATE-81), sorbitan oxyethylenated tristearate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-65), sorbitan oxyethylenated trioleate (20 OE) (POLYSORBATE-85).

[0152] The non-ionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated and mixtures thereof, preferably from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, even better from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

[0153] The cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, possibly polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, examples include stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

[0155] Quaternary ammonium salts may be cited in particular, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (X): in which the groups R8 to RI1, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 atoms of carbon, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to RI1 groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens. Aliphatic groups are for example chosen from alkyl groups in Cl-C3O, alkoxy groups in CrC3O, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide groups in CrC3O, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6), alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate, and hydroxyalkyl groups in CrC3O, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given on the one hand to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0156] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of The following formula (XI): in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a CrC4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(CrC4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 designates a methyl group, R15 designates a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0157] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XII) next: r (XII) FU — (CHJ—N—R21 2X ' FU FU IC* zv in which R16 designates an alkyl group comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms possibly hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+ group. (R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Cl-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cl-C4)- or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Examples of such compounds include Finquat CT-P offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT offered by FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

[0158] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such that, for example, those of the following formula (XIII): (C.H..OL---R (XIII) O ' " ' p H «24—c--(O—q —O) y —X in which: R22 is chosen from among the C1-C6 alkyl groups and the C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from among: the -C(O)R26 group, the C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups R27, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from among: the -C(O)R28 group, the C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6; rl and tl, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r² + rl = 2r and tl + t² = 2t, y is an integer from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10, X⁻ is a simple anion or complex, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 designates R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 designates R29. R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from among the C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2. The X- anion is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide, or iodide, an alkyl(Cl-C4) sulfate, alkyl(Cl-C4)-, or alkyl(Cl-C4)aryl sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible ester anion may be used. The X- anion is more specifically chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XIII) are used in particular, wherein: R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r, s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the -C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the -C(O)R28 group, the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Advantageously, hydrocarbon groups are linear. Examples of compounds with formula (XIII) include salts, notably diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium chloride, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are most often derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine, or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin, or glycerol. Such compounds are marketed for example under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180, can also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131, can also be used. Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Among cationic surfactants, preference is given to cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulfated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from among non-ionic surfactants, better from among the (alkyl in C6-C24)polyglycosides, even better, from among the (alkyl in C6-C24)polyglucosides, such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

[0161] When the composition includes one or more surfactant(s), the total surfactant content in the composition varies preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] When the composition includes one or more non-ionic surfactant(s), the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition varies preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agent

[0163] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more thickening agents.

[0164] For the purposes of the present invention, a thickening agent is understood to be an agent which, by its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs, preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1s1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0165] The thickening agent(s) may, in particular, be chosen from sodium chloride, fatty acid amides obtained from carboxylic acid in C10-C30)(monoisopropanol-, diethanol- or monoethanol-amide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), associative polymers, thickening polymers other than associative polymers and in particular non-ionic cellulosic polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] Thickening polymers can be selected from associative and non-associative polymers.

[0167] For the purposes of this invention, "associative polymers" means water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0168] Their chemical structure includes hydrophilic zones and hydrophobic zones characterized by at least one fatty chain preferably comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0169] The associative polymer(s) usable according to the invention may be of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic type, such as the polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TRI or TR2 by the company GOODRICH (INCI: Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), SALCARE SC90 by the company CIBA, ACULYN 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company ROHM & HAAS and ELFACOS T210 and T212 by the company AKZO.

[0170] Preferably, the associative polymers can be chosen from cellulosic polymers.

[0171] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain.

[0172] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be selected from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in C8-C22, and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, and mixtures thereof, preferably cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

[0173] Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives, preferably from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof, and even better polyquatemium-67.

[0174] Thickening polymers can also be selected from non-associative polymers, and in particular non-ionic cellulosic polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] Among non-associative polymers, an anionic (meth)acrylic polymer such as homo- or co-polymers of (met)acrylic acid may also be chosen. For example, compounds with the INCI name Carbomer may be cited.

[0176] Preferably, the non-associative polymers are chosen from guar gums, xanthan gum, homo- or co-polymers of (meth)acrylic acid.

[0177] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from associative or non-associative thickening polymers.

[0178] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from non-associative thickening polymers, more preferably from guar gums.

[0179] The guar gums usable according to the invention can be non-ionic or cationic.

[0180] According to the invention, chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums can be used.

[0181] Non-ionic unmodified guar gums are for example the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0182] The modified non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention are preferably modified by C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0183] Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0184] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0185] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0186] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120, JAGUAR DC 293 and JAGUAR HP 105 by the company MEYHALL, or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the company AQUALON.

[0187] Also suitable are non-ionic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, more specifically hydroxypropyl, modified with groups having at least one C6-C30 fatty chain. Examples of such compounds include, among others, the product ESAFLOR HM 22® (alkyl chain in C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18® (alkyl chain in CM) and RE205-1® (alkyl chain in C2O) sold by the company RHONE POULENC.

[0188] The cationic guar gums most particularly usable according to the invention are guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2 to 30% and even more preferably 5 to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.

[0189] Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups can be mentioned in particular.

[0190] Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.

[0191] According to the invention, a guar gum modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride is preferably used.

[0192] These guar gums modified by cationic groups are products already known in themselves and are described for example in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,0131,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL.

[0193] Preferably, a non-ionic guar gum is used and, among these non-ionic guar gums, more particularly guar gums modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0194] When the composition includes one or more thickening agents, the total content of thickening agent(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0195] When the composition includes one or more thickening polymers, the total content of thickening polymer(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] When the composition includes one or more guar gums, the total content of guar gum(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0197] When the composition includes one or more non-ionic guar gums, the total content of non-ionic guar gum(s) varies, preferably, from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Catalysts

[0198] The composition according to the invention may include one or more catalysts in order to accelerate the oxidation reaction of the oxidation couplers.

[0199] Preferably, the catalysts are metallic catalysts.

[0200] Metallic catalysts are compounds which include in their structure one or more metals.

[0201] In particular, the metals are chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals and rare earth metals.

[0202] Among the alkali metals, we can mention in particular potassium, sodium, lithium, and especially potassium.

[0203] Among the alkaline earth metals, we can notably mention magnesium, calcium, strontium.

[0204] Among the transition metals, we can mention in particular manganese, iron, cobalt, copper, zinc, platinum, nickel, titanium, silver, zirconium, chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, platinum, gold, vanadium and among these particularly manganese.

[0205] Among the rare earth metals, cerium can be notably mentioned.

[0206] Thus, metallic catalysts include catalysts based on alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, transition metals and rare earth metals, and more particularly catalysts based on potassium, manganese, vanadium or cerium.

[0207] The metallic catalysts used can be chosen from metallic salts, metallic oxides, metallic complexes and mixtures thereof.

[0208] For the purposes of this invention, metallic complexes are understood to mean systems in which the metal ion, i.e., the central atom, is linked to one or more electron donors, called ligands, by means of chemical bonds. Examples include porphyrins and phthalocyanines, particularly cationic porphyrins.

[0209] Preferably, the metal catalysts are chosen from metal salts.

[0210] For the purposes of the present invention, metal salts are understood to mean salts resulting from the action of an acid on a metal.

[0211] Preferably, the metal catalysts are chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, transition metal salts, such as manganese salts, and rare earth metal salts, such as cerium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] Metallic salts can be inorganic or organic salts.

[0213] According to one variant, the metal salts are inorganic and can be selected from halides, carbonates, sulfates and phosphates, including hydrated or non-hydrated halides such as iodides.

[0214] According to another preferred embodiment, the metal salts are of oxidation state II and have two ligands derived from (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0215] The term "(poly)hydroxyacid" means any carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, preferably saturated and / or linear, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and from 1 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and comprising from 1 to 4 carboxylic groups -C(O)-OH, at least one of which -C(O)-OH functions is in the carboxylate form -C(O)-O- complexed with the metal atom, preferably Mn(II). More particularly, the metal salt is complexed by two carboxylate groups such as that of formula (IA):

[0216] RC(O)-OMOC(O)-R' (IA) as well as its solvates such as hydrates and their enantiomers,

[0217] Formula (IA) wherein: - M represents a metal (II) or metal2+ of oxidation state 2, - R and R', identical or different, represent a (Cl-C6)(poly)hydroxyal kyle group.

[0218] In particular, the metallic catalysts are selected from organic acid salts of transition metals, especially manganese, and inorganic salts of rare earth metals, especially cerium.

[0219] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the manganese-based catalyst is not an oxide but a salt of manganese.

[0220] Organic metal salts may be more particularly selected from organic acid salts such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates, especially gluconates.

[0221] More preferably, the metal catalysts are chosen from potassium iodide and manganese gluconate, preferably potassium iodide.

[0222] The catalysts, preferably metallic, may be present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvents

[0223] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more organic solvents.

[0224] Examples of organic solvents include linear or branched C2- to C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; and polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether, and monomethyl ether. diethylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0225] The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] Furthermore, preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] Preferably, when the composition is aqueous, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.

[0228] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art. Additives

[0229] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof different from those previously described, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, sequestering agents.

[0230] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0231] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

[0232] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include chemical oxidizing agents.

[0233] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - ammonium hydroxide; - one or more oxidation couplers preferably chosen from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; the composition being free of oxidation base.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - ammonium hydroxide; - one or more oxidation couplers selected from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; and - one or more surfactants, the composition being free of oxidation base. Process

[0235] The present invention also relates to a method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which includes the step of applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

[0236] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, or possibly washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0237] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the resulting composition to the hair.

[0238] More specifically, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and mixtures thereof. The chemical oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0239] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water compared to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0240] It may also include one or more organic solvents selected from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 0.1 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0241] The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0242] In addition, the oxidizing composition may include one or more fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants, polymers.

[0243] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably between 1 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 4.5.

[0244] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0245] Preferably, at least one of the colouring or oxidizing compositions is aqueous.

[0246] Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the hair a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a coloring composition comprising: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more mineral alkaline agents; - one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers; - the coloring composition being free of oxidation base; and, b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0247] According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the hair, at the time of use, a composition resulting from the mixture of at least two compositions: a) a coloring composition comprising: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - ammonium hydroxide; - one or more oxidation couplers preferably chosen from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-l-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)-benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof; the composition being free of oxidation base; And, b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0248] The invention also relates to a composition comprising: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more mineral alkali agents, preferably ammonium hydroxide; - one or more oxidation dyes chosen from among the oxidation couplers; - one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, - the colouring composition being free of oxidation base, this composition being a ready-to-use composition.

[0249] This ready-to-use composition may include one or more of the ingredients described above.

[0250] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.

[0251] According to one embodiment, the coloring process includes a step of applying the previously defined coloring composition and one or more previously defined catalysts to the keratin fibers.

[0252] The coloring composition and the catalyst(s) can be applied to the keratin fibers together or separately.

[0253] As described previously, the catalyst may be contained in the coloring composition.

[0254] Alternatively, the catalyst may be contained in a composition C, separate from the colouring composition.

[0255] Composition C comprising one or more catalysts can be applied to the keratin fibers before the application of the coloring composition.

[0256] Alternatively, composition C can be mixed with the coloring composition, preferably the ready-to-use composition, the resulting mixture being applied to the keratin fibers.

[0257] Composition C may further comprise water.

[0258] Composition C may further comprise a thickening agent as described previously. Kit

[0259] Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device for coloring keratin fibers, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above, and optionally at least a third compartment containing at least one composition C comprising one or more catalysts as defined above.

[0260] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0261] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0262] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition such as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

[0263] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0264] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions A

[0265] Composition A1 according to the present invention and the comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0266] [Tables 1] Al (invention) A2 (comparative) AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 3.62 - ETHANOLAMINE - 4.88 ASCORBIC ACID 0.12 0.12 SODIUM METABISULFITE 0.22 0.22 MINERAL OIL 60 60 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCL 5 5 HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR 1 1 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 1.24 1.24 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 3.02 3.02 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1 1 EDTA 0.2 0.2 water QSP 100 QSP 100 Oxidizing composition

[0267] Oxidizing composition B was prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

[0268] [Tables2] B HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 6 STEARETH-20 5 PEG-4 RAPESEEDAMIDE 1.2 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 MINERAL OIL 20 POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.2 GLYCERIN 0.5 HEXADIMETHRIN CHLORIDE 0.15 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 PHOSPHORIC ACID QSP pH 2.2 Water QSP 100 Coloring protocol

[0269] Compositions Al and A2 are each mixed with oxidizing composition B in the weight ratio 1+1.5.

[0270] [Tables3] Al+B (invention) A2+B (comparative) pH mixture 1+1.5 9.3±0.2 9.3±0.2

[0271] Each of the mixtures is applied to strands of hair that are 90% natural white (BN) at a ratio of 5g of mixture to 1g of hair.

[0272] After 30 minutes of rest on a heated plate at 27°C, the hair strands are washed with a standard shampoo, rinsed and then dried. Results

[0273] Colorimetric measurements were then carried out using a Zeiss INTERLOCK T 2.0 / 100 ZF-I 2 MACRO objective multispectral camera to evaluate hair colouring in the L*a*b* system.

[0274] In this system, L* represents lightness. The lower the value of L*, the darker and more intense the resulting color. Chromaticity is measured by the values ​​a* and b*, with a* representing the red / green axis and b* the yellow / blue axis.

[0275] The color rise is represented by the color difference AE between the uncolored and colored hair strands, AE being obtained from the formula: ae=

[0276] in which L* represents the intensity, a* and b* the chromaticity of the colored hair, and Lo* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of the uncolored hair. The higher the value of AE, the better the color lift.

[0277] The results are summarized in the following table.

[0278] [Tables4] L* a* b* AE Uncolored strand (control) 63.02 1.44 13.74 Al+B (invention) 27.68 5.71 9.11 35.9 A2+B (comparative) 33.79 4.70 6.44 30.3

[0279] The Al+B mixture according to the invention leads to a lower L* value, therefore to a more powerful colouring than the comparative A2 + B mixture.

[0280] In addition, the Al+B mixture according to the invention leads to a higher AE value, and therefore to a better rise of the dyes than the comparative A2+B mixture.

[0281] The composition according to the invention has made it possible to improve the strength and the rise of the colour.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - one or more mineral alkali agents; - one or more oxidation colorants selected from oxidation couplers; the composition being free of oxidation base.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising one or more liquid fats, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular petrolatum oil, liquid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more solid fats, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total content of the fat or fats is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the total content of the liquid fat(s) is greater than or equal to 25% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, better greater than or equal to 35% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more oxidation couplers selected from 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydr oxyethyloxy)-benzene, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-aminophenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the total content of oxidation couplers ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mineral alkali agent is selected from ammonium hydroxide, ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium carbonates or hydrogen carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium or potassium phosphates, alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium silicates, potassium silicates, calcium silicates, aluminium silicates, and mixtures thereof, preferably ammonium hydroxide.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the total mineral alkali content is from 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more surfactants, the surfactant(s) being preferably selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from sulfated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, (alkyl C6-C24) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more catalysts, preferably one or more metallic catalysts, preferably selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, transition metal salts, such as manganese salts, and rare earth metal salts, such as cerium salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably from potassium iodide and manganese gluconate, and mixtures thereof.

14. A method for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers the coloring composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, and optionally one or more catalysts as defined in claim 13, the coloring composition and the catalyst(s) being applied to the keratin fibers together or separately.

15. A process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition defined according to claim 12 is obtained from the mixture of at least two compositions: a) a coloring composition comprising: - one or more fats, the total fat content being greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and, - one or more mineral alkali agents; - one or more oxidation dyes selected from oxidation couplers; and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, the process not employing an oxidation base.

16. A multi-compartment device, preferably two-compartment, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and optionally at least a third compartment containing at least one composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined in claim 13.

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