Biphasic makeup-removing cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising separate aqueous and oily phases, the oily phase comprising: 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane, relative to the total weight of the oily phase; 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate, relative to the total weight of the oily phase; and 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, wherein the composition does not contain a C15-C19 alkane. The present invention also relates to specific ternary mixtures, and related methods and cosmetic uses.

Description

[Technical Field]

[0001] The present invention relates to a biphasic composition comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, the oily phase comprising a particular oil. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition and to a method of removing makeup using such a composition. [Background technology]

[0002] Compositions consisting of two separate phases, particularly an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are separate from each other at rest and are not emulsified, are generally referred to by the term "biphasic compositions." Biphasic compositions differ from emulsions in that, at rest, the two phases are separated, rather than emulsified, into each other. The use of these biphasic compositions requires prior stirring to form an emulsion, which must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow both phases to be uniformly applied to the skin or keratinous material to which the emulsion is applied. At rest, the phases must rapidly separate from each other and return to their original state, a phenomenon more commonly known as "phase separation" or "demixing."

[0003] Relatively rapid demixing of the two phases after use is one of the desired qualities of a biphasic composition. Indeed, achieving rapid phase separation is desirable for a variety of reasons, but in particular because poor separation of the two phases can be perceived as unsightly by the user and can lead to the product becoming "three-phase" over time during use.

[0004] Additionally, commercially available biphasic compositions, particularly used to remove make-up from the face, and especially from the eyes, contain cyclopentasiloxane. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0005] However, the cosmetics market is increasingly focused on compositions containing natural, more environmentally friendly compounds and / or compounds of biomass origin, and there is a particular need for cyclopentasiloxane-free compositions.

[0006] As a result, there remains a need for novel stable biphasic compositions consisting of two separate, immiscible phases, free of cyclopentasiloxane, with good demixing qualities while ensuring effective makeup removal. There is also a need for natural compositions. "Natural composition" means a cosmetic composition formulated primarily with natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin. "Natural ingredients" means compounds obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, as applicable, by one or more physical processes, such as grinding, smelting, distillation, purification, or filtration. "Naturally derived" ingredients mean natural compounds that have been subjected to one or more chemical or related industrial processes that result in non-detrimental alterations to the compound's essential qualities, and / or compounds that primarily comprise natural ingredients, which may or may not have been subjected to the transformations listed above. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that the ternary association of isododecane, isopropyl palmitate, and isopropyl myristate in specific proportions, coupled with an aqueous phase, results in a biphasic composition that meets these needs. The composition according to the invention is stable, cyclopentasiloxane-free, has particularly good demixing qualities, and is highly effective at removing makeup.

[0008] More particularly, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising separate aqueous and oily phases, the oily phase comprising: 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the oily phase; - 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase; - 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the oily phase; Including, The composition does not contain C15-C19 alkanes The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition characterized by:

[0009] Such compositions according to the present invention are biphasic compositions.

[0010] The present invention also provides - 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the composition; - 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the composition; - 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the composition; A composition consisting of The present invention also relates to a composition that does not contain a C15 to C19 alkane.

[0011] This composition is also referred to in this application as a "ternary mixture." The ternary mixture represents the preferred oily phase of the biphasic composition according to the invention.

[0012] The present invention also relates to a method for makeup removal and / or cleaning and / or care of keratinous materials, which comprises applying a two-phase composition or a ternary mixture according to the invention to said keratinous materials, in particular to keratinous materials of the eyes, preferably to the eyelashes.

[0013] The present invention also relates to the use of the two-phase composition or ternary mixture according to the invention for make-up removal and / or cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular keratinous materials of the eye, preferably the eyelashes.

[0014] "Keratinous materials" refers to skin, mucous membranes and / or skin appendages. Preferably, the keratinous materials are skin, especially facial skin, mucous membranes such as lips, and / or skin appendages such as eyelashes. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0015] oily phase The oily phase of the biphasic composition according to the present invention comprises: 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the oily phase; - 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase; - 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the oily phase; Including, The composition does not contain C15 to C19 alkanes.

[0016] The ternary mixture composition according to the present invention comprises: - 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the composition; - 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the composition; - 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the composition; It consists of The mixture does not contain C15-C19 alkanes.

[0017] The characterization "composition free of C15-C19 alkanes" or "mixture free of C15-C19 alkanes" is understood to mean that the biphasic composition or ternary mixture, respectively, does not contain any C15-C19 alkanes. These excluded C15-C19 alkanes are in particular C15-C19 branched alkanes, such as those sold under the name EMOGREEN L19 by the company Seppic.

[0018] Preferably, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the present invention contain no alkanes other than isododecane.

[0019] The biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the invention comprise 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the invention comprise 50% to 75% by weight, preferably 55% to 70% by weight, preferably 57% to 68% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0020] The biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the invention comprise from 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the invention comprise from 15% to 22% by weight, preferably from 17% to 22% by weight, of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0021] The biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the invention comprise 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the invention comprise 10% to 18% by weight, preferably 15% to 18% by weight, of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0022] Preferably, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the present invention are substantially free of cyclopentasiloxane. "Substantially free of cyclopentasiloxane" means that the composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of cyclopentasiloxane, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the present invention are completely free of cyclopentasiloxane.

[0023] aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the biphasic composition comprises water.

[0024] The aqueous phase optionally contains at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water at 25°C.

[0025] Water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for the present invention include short-chain linear or branched alkanols, such as C2-C4 alkanols, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols, in particular diols or polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises a water content of at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably between 80% and 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0027] The aqueous phase may further comprise conventional cosmetic additives such as electrolytes, chelating agents, preservatives and / or surfactants.

[0028] The electrolyte may be selected from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate. The electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.

[0029] Preferably, the active substance content of the electrolyte is between 0.2% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight, preferably between 1% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] In particular, the aqueous phase may contain at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. Preferably, the aqueous phase contains at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl polyglucosides, esters of fatty acids containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 5 to 8 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises from 0.015% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.02% to 1% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

[0032] Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) belong to the alkyl polyglycoside family and generally have the following structure: R(O)(G) x wherein the R group is C 12 ~C 22 is a linear or branched alkyl group, G is a glucose residue, and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to 2.5, more preferably from 1.1 to 2. Fits.

[0033] According to the invention, the term alkyl polyglucosides (APG) also includes polyalkyl (poly)glucosides. As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides, those containing alkyl groups with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18, and even more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, are preferably used, and the glucosidic group preferably contains 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 or 3 glucosidic units. Alkyl polyglucosides are, for example, decyl glucoside (alkyl-C9 / C 11- polyglucosides (1.4)), such as the product sold by Kao Chemicals under the brand name Mydol 10® or the product sold by Henkel under the brand name Plantacare 2000 UP® and the product sold by SEPPIC under the brand name ORAMIX NS 10®; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product sold by Cognis under the brand name Plantacare KE 3711® or the product sold by SEPPIC under the brand name ORAMIX CG 110®; lauryl glucoside, such as the product sold by Henkel under the brand name Plantacare 1200 UP® or the product sold by Henkel under the brand name Plantaren 1200 N®; cocoglucoside, such as the product sold by Henkel under the brand name Plantacare 818 UP®; Caprylyl glucoside, for example the product sold by Cognis under the trade name Plantacare 810 UP®, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the APG is decyl glucoside.

[0034] The esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols are formed from at least one fatty acid containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 5 to 8 glycerol units.

[0035] The fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the esters of fatty acids and polyglycerol are mono- or diesters, preferably monoesters.

[0036] The term "polyglycerol" refers to a glyceryl polymer that is a linear chain of 5 to 8 glycerol units.

[0037] The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are those obtained by esterifying polyglycerol with a C8 carboxylic acid, such as caprylic acid. The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

[0038] According to one particular embodiment, the esters suitable for this invention can be derived from the esterification of polyglycerol with one or more identical or different carboxylic acids, which can be hydroxylated monoesters, hydroxylated diesters, hydroxylated triesters, or mixtures thereof.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester is chosen from esters of a fatty acid containing 8 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 6 glycerol units.

[0040] Esters of fatty acids containing 8 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 6 glycerol units are formed from (i) at least one fatty acid containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing 8 carbon atoms (also called a C8 fatty acid) and (ii) 6 glycerol units.

[0041] Preferably, the C8 fatty acid is saturated and contains a linear alkyl chain. Preferably, the C8 fatty acid is caprylic acid.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing 8 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 6 glycerol units is polyglyceryl monocaprylate containing 6 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-6 monocaprylate (polyglyceryl-6 caprylate).

[0043] Biphasic Composition The biphasic compositions according to the present invention consist of separate aqueous and oily phases.

[0044] Preferably, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.03 and 5.8, preferably between 1.04 and 5.7.

[0045] These ratio values ​​allow for a biphasic composition that provides excellent makeup removal and also has a pleasing visual appearance.

[0046] The invention also relates to the use of a two-phase composition as defined above or of a ternary mixture as defined above for makeup removal and / or cleaning of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, and / or mucous membranes (e.g. lips), and / or keratinous fibers (e.g. eyelashes).

[0047] The present invention also relates to a method for makeup removal and / or cleaning of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, and / or mucous membranes (e.g. lips), and / or keratinous fibers (e.g. eyelashes), which comprises applying a two-phase composition according to the invention or a ternary mixture according to the invention onto the keratinous materials.

[0048] The expressions "between," "within," and "varying from" should be understood to include the ranges unless otherwise specified.

[0049] Specific, yet non-limiting, examples illustrating the present invention are now provided.

[0050] Unless otherwise specified, pressure in the examples is atmospheric pressure. [Example]

[0051] Example 1 Preparation of compositions according to the invention and comparative compositions 1. Experimental design conducted for four variables (i.e., oil content) % by weight based on the weight of the oily phase: Isododecane (QS) - Isopropyl palmitate (0-30%) - Isopropyl myristate (0-30%) - C15-C19 alkanes (0-35%)

[0052] - Oily phase formulation The four oils (variable content) are added to a beaker and homogenized over low heat for 20 minutes.

[0053] The compositions of the oily phase are shown below in Tables 2 to 5. In Tables 2 to 5, the percentages are by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

[0054] - Aqueous phase formulation Aqueous phase composition

[0055] [Table 1]

[0056] The aqueous phase is prepared as follows. Add Phase A ingredients to a beaker and heat to 65° C. After 20 minutes of dispersion, add B ingredients (water must be cold) and disperse for 10 minutes.

[0057] - Integrated into a biphasic composition The densities of the two phases are measured.

[0058] To obtain a biphasic composition with a weight ratio of 85% aqueous phase / 15% oily phase, the following calculations are performed:

[0059]

number

[0060] For each phase, m 相 and pour the corresponding mass into the selected packaging.

[0061] Each of the following compositions is obtained by mixing the aqueous phase from Table 1 with the oily phase detailed below (Tables 2-5).

[0062] a. Height of oily phase (transparent) 45 seconds after stirring (centimeters) Protocol: Agitate the biphasic composition by swirling 10 times, then start the timer. After 45 seconds, measure the height of the demixed oily phase using a ruler. Target value: height 0.5 cm

[0063] b. Height of oily phase (transparent) 1 minute after stirring (centimeters) Protocol: Agitate the biphasic composition by swirling 10 times, then start the timer. After 1 minute, measure the height of the demixed oily phase using a ruler. Target height: 1.2cm

[0064] c. Presence of droplets of oily phase on the wall after 4 days of stirring Protocol: The biphasic composition is agitated 10 times by rotating each day for 5 days. The biphasic composition is allowed to stand for 24 hours, and then this procedure is repeated on subsequent days. On the fifth day, the biphasic composition is not agitated and is evaluated.

[0065] The presence of droplets of oily phase on the wall may be detected and annotated as follows: 0 = no droplets, 1 = very fine / sparse droplets, 2 = fine / few droplets, 3 = medium / more numerous droplets, 4 = large / numerous droplets Target value: 2 or less

[0066] d. Interface clarity after 4 days of stirring Protocol: The biphasic composition is stirred 10 times by rotating every day for 5 days. The biphasic composition is left to stand for 24 hours, and then this operation is repeated on the following days. On the fifth day, the biphasic composition is not stirred and is evaluated. The interface corresponds to the separation line between the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0067] If it is unstable, note it as follows: 1 = very blurred interface / large droplets, 2 = blurred interface / medium droplets, 3 = well-defined interface-sparse droplets, 4 = well-defined interface-some small droplets, 5 = well-defined interface Target value: 3 or more

[0068] Effect of C15-C19 alkane content

[0069] [Table 2]

[0070] After 45 seconds of stirring, the demixing rate of the two phases is evaluated by measuring the height of the oily phase. The target value is set at 0.5 cm. The target value is not achieved when a C15-C19 alkane is added to the composition (Comparative Example 1) or when the isododecane is completely replaced by a C15-C19 alkane (Comparative Example 2).

[0071] Therefore, the biphasic compositions and ternary mixtures according to the present invention must not contain any alkanes other than isododecane.

[0072] Effect of isopropyl myristate content

[0073] [Table 3]

[0074] The height of the oily phase after 1 minute of stirring and the presence of droplets on the wall after 4 days of stirring were evaluated.

[0075] If the isopropyl myristate content is strictly less than 8% or strictly more than 18%, the target value is not achieved.

[0076] Therefore, isopropyl myristate must be present in an amount of 8% to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

[0077] Effect of isopropyl palmitate content

[0078] [Table 4]

[0079] The clarity of the interface after 4 days of stirring and the presence of droplets on the wall after 4 days of stirring were evaluated. If the isopropyl palmitate content is less than 10%, the target value for the presence of droplets is not achieved. If the content is more than 22%, the two target values ​​are not achieved.

[0080] Therefore, isopropyl palmitate must be present in an amount of 10% to 22% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

[0081] Effect of isododecane content

[0082] [Table 5]

[0083] The oily phase height after 45 seconds of stirring and the presence of droplets on the wall after 4 days of stirring were evaluated. If the isododecane content is less than 48%, the two target values ​​are not achieved. If the content is more than 82%, the target value for the presence of droplets is not achieved.

[0084] Therefore, isododecane must be present in an amount of 48% to 82% by weight, based on the total weight of the oily phase.

[0085] Isopropyl palmitate is especially essential for achieving a small number of droplets after 4 days of stirring. Isopropyl myristate is especially essential for achieving good demixing.

[0086] 2. Ratio effects Other ratios were tested with the following compositions (same oily phase composition, see below): 70% aqueous phase / 30% oily phase ratio, and · 56% aqueous phase / 44% oily phase ratio.

[0087] Aqueous phase composition The aqueous phase has the same composition as in Table 1.

[0088] Oily phase composition

[0089] [Table 6]

[0090] Testing different ratios

[0091] [Table 7]

[0092] At different ratios but the same phase composition, all tests are stable to the target value.

[0093] Example 2 Evaluation of compositions according to the present invention and comparative compositions The make-up removal effectiveness of different biphasic compositions (reference Invention 1 or 1', and Invention 2 or 2') is evaluated against foundation and mascara.

[0094] Foundation (FDT) application: 0.1 mL of Maybelline Fit Me Matte Pore less color 220 for each half of the face.

[0095] Mascara application: 30 coats of Voluminous Blackest Black mascara on the upper lashes.

[0096] Wait 30 minutes before removing makeup. For FDT, use five cotton balls soaked in 2 ml of the biphasic composition for each half of the face. Remove makeup from each part of the face. Wait five minutes, then apply 2 ml of Lancome Bifacil on cotton balls, using up to six cotton balls.

[0097] Count the number of Bifacil-soaked cotton balls needed to remove the residue.

[0098] For mascara, use three cotton balls soaked in 2 ml of the biphasic composition for each eye. Remove makeup from eyes. Wait 5 minutes, then apply 2 ml of Bifacil onto cotton balls, using up to six cotton balls.

[0099] Count the number of Bifacil-soaked cotton balls needed to remove the residue.

[0100] 1 / Tested formulation (85:15 ratio): Total phase composition + phase ratio

[0101] [Table 8]

[0102] result: The reference is 1 cotton pad for makeup removal for FDT and 1.5 cotton pads for mascara, while the two biphasic compositions according to the invention are 0 cotton pads for FDT and 1 cotton pad for mascara.

[0103] The two biphasic compositions according to the invention remove make-up better than the reference.

[0104] 2 / Tested formulation (70:30 ratio): Total phase composition + phase ratio

[0105] [Table 9]

[0106] result: The reference is 0 makeup removing cotton pads for FDT and 0.5 cotton pads for mascara, while the two biphasic compositions according to the invention are 0 cotton pads for FDT and 0 cotton pads for mascara.

[0107] The two biphasic compositions according to the invention remove make-up better than the reference.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the oily phase comprises: - 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the oily phase, - 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase, - 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the oily phase; Including, The composition does not contain C15-C19 alkanes A cosmetic composition characterized by:

2. - 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the composition; - 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the composition; - 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the composition; A composition consisting of A composition that does not contain C15 to C19 alkanes.

3. 3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 50% to 75% by weight, preferably from 55% to 70% by weight, preferably from 57% to 68% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

4. 4. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 15% to 22% by weight, preferably from 17% to 22% by weight, of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

5. 5. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 10% to 18% by weight, preferably from 15% to 18% by weight, of isopropyl myristate relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

6. 6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, which is substantially free of cyclopentasiloxane, preferably completely free of cyclopentasiloxane.

7. 7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water and, optionally, at least one solvent that is water-soluble or water-miscible at 25°C, preferably the solvent is selected from short-chain linear or branched alkanols, such as C2-C4 alkanols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols, in particular diols or polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

8. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises a water content of at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably between 80% and 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

9. 9. The composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 8, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and non-ionic surfactants, preferably at least one non-ionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl polyglucosides, esters of fatty acids containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing from 5 to 8 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

10. 10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 9, wherein the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.03 and 5.8, preferably between 1.04 and 5.

7.

11. A method for removing make-up and / or cleaning and / or caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to said keratinous materials, in particular to eye keratinous materials, preferably to the eyelashes.

12. 11. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for make-up removal and / or cleaning and / or care of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous materials of the eye, preferably the eyelashes.

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