Use of rosebush extract as a depigmenting agent

Abstract

The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue as a bleaching and / or lightening and / or whitening active agent.The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for bleaching, lightening and / or whitening keratinous materials, in particular skin, which comprises applying, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue.

Description

[Technical field]

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of active agents dedicated to the care of keratinous materials such as the skin or skin appendages.

[0002] The present invention relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue, as a bleaching and / or lightening and / or whitening active agent.

[0003] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for bleaching, lightening and / or whitening keratinous materials, in particular the skin, which comprises applying, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue. [Background technology]

[0004] At various times in life, some people may develop darker and / or more pigmented spots on their skin, more specifically on their hands, that cause skin heterogeneity. These spots are due to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes, especially those located on the surface of the skin.

[0005] There is a most particular need for highly effective, non-offensive topical depigmenting substances for the treatment of pigmented blemishes.

[0006] The mechanism of formation of skin pigmentation, i.e. the formation of melanin, is particularly complex and diagrammatically comprises the following main steps: Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanin

[0007] Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine:oxygen oxidoreductase EC 1.14.18.1) is an essential enzyme involved in this sequence. It catalyzes, among other things, the conversion of tyrosine to dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) by its hydroxylase activity, and dopa to dopaquinone by its oxidase activity. This tyrosinase acts only in its mature form and under the influence of certain biological factors.

[0008] A substance is approved as depigmenting if it is able to interfere with one of the steps in the synthesis of melanin, either by acting directly on the activity of epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis occurs and / or by inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis or by intervening with a structural analogue of one of the compounds involved in the sequence of melanin synthesis reactions and thus being able to interrupt this sequence, thereby ensuring depigmentation. Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]

[0009] Rucinol is known as a skin depigmenting agent.

[0010] Therefore, there has been a demand for a substance having an efficient depigmenting effect, in particular a depigmenting effect at least equal to or greater than that of rucinol. [Means for solving the problem]

[0011] In this regard, the Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue exhibits good depigmenting action.

[0012] A subject of the present invention is therefore a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for bleaching, lightening and / or whitening keratinous materials, and in particular the skin, which comprises applying, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue as defined below.

[0013] The present invention further relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue as an agent for whitening, lightening and / or depigmenting keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0014] The extract of the hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue used according to the invention is capable of effectively depigmenting and / or lightening, and even whitening, the human skin, and is intended in particular to be applied to the skin of individuals with a dull complexion, an uneven complexion, brownish pigmentation spots or melasma, or who wish to eliminate the appearance of a brownish color caused by melanogenesis.

[0015] The extract may also make it possible to bleach and / or lighten body hair, eyelashes, scalp hair, and lips and / or nails.

[0016] A subject of the present invention is further the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the above-mentioned varieties Meichibon x Delgramaue as an agent for whitening and / or lightening and / or bleaching the skin, body hair, eyelashes or scalp hair as well as the lips and / or nails, preferably the skin, in particular for evening out the complexion, improving the radiance of the complexion, removing pigmentation or age spots and / or as a sun protection agent. [Brief description of the drawings]

[0017] [Figure 1] FIG. 2 is a scheme of the extraction process of the extract using supercritical CO2 according to Example 1. [Diagram 2] Evaluation of the decolorization effect of the supercritical CO2 extract of white rose obtained in Example 1. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0018] Rosebush Extract Preferably, said rosebush extract is obtainable from the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves of said rosebush.

[0019] Preferably, the rosebush extract is prepared by subjecting an alcoholic mixture of all or part of the rosebush to supercritical CO2. 2 It can be obtained by extraction with

[0020] Preferably, the rose bush extract may be characterized in that it is obtained after infusing all or part of the rose bush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

[0021] The cultivar name Meichibon refers to a rose bush belonging to the genus Rosa in the family Rosaceae. It is a hybrid tea rose also known commercially as Tchaikovski®, or Tchaikovski® Meichibon, rose bush, or Meilland rose bush.

[0022] The cultivar name Delgramaue refers to a rose bush belonging to the family Rosaceae, genus Rosa, species Floribunda, also known commercially as "rose synactif by Shisheido®" (Delbard) or "La Rose du Petit Prince".

[0023] Such hybrid rose bushes may exhibit abundant white double leaves that may be pink-tipped, i.e., an average of five flowers on one stem, and may exhibit a fragrance exhibiting a variety of notes including (i) top notes of grapefruit and citrus rose, (ii) heart notes of apricot and lychee, and (iii) a green base note. On average, they may reach a height of about 70-80 cm, a width of about 40-50 cm, and branches having a diameter of about 8-10 mm.

[0024] In particular, such a hybrid rose bush may be obtained by crossing a "male" cultivar of the cultivar Delgramaue with a "female" cultivar of the cultivar Meichibon.

[0025] In particular, such a hybrid rose bush may be obtained by pollinating, i.e. applying, pollen from the stamens of a "male" flower, in particular a flower belonging to the cultivar name Delgramaue, to the pistils of a "female" flower, in particular a flower belonging to the cultivar name Meichibon.

[0026] This hybrid rose bush can be significantly distinguished from the previously defined varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue by the combination of the following characteristics: - The number of petals generally differs from that of the Meichibon variety, in that this species of rose bush has flowers with a greater number of petals, which are larger in size and more strongly scented, with the characteristic notes of grapefruit as mentioned above; - the colour of the petals generally differs from that of the Delgramaue variety, which is generally white, whereas the Delgramaue variety has lilac petals; it is more robust and resistant to a disease called "black spot of roses".

[0027] supercritical CO 2The extract is generally prepared by subjecting the extract to "supercritical" conditions, i.e., CO2 extraction at high pressure levels (generally above 50 bar, or even above 70 bar) and low temperatures (generally above 30° C. and below 50° C.). 2 Refers to an extract obtained by a process using gas.

[0028] According to one embodiment, the extraction is carried out under supercritical conditions, i.e. at a temperature of at least 31.1° C. and a pressure of at least 74.5 bar, using CO 2 It is carried out in the presence of a gas.

[0029] The supercritical CO 2 The extract may in particular be obtained according to the protocol described in WO 2012 / 085366 and detailed below.

[0030] The term "keratinous materials" is intended to denote the skin and its appendages, in particular the scalp, hair follicles and keratinous fibres, in particular the hair of the head, eyebrows, eyelashes and beard and moustache.

[0031] The term "skin" refers to any skin of the body, including the scalp, mucous membranes, semi-mucous membranes and skin appendages.

[0032] The term "skin integument" refers to body hair, eyelashes, scalp hair and nails. More particularly, the present invention considers scalp hair, nape, neck and facial skin, eyelashes and eyebrows.

[0033] The term "prevent" can also mean "reducing the probability of the occurrence or recurrence of an event."

[0034] The rosebush extract according to the invention may be obtained from plant material obtained from the whole plant or from parts of the plant, for example from leaves, stems, flowers, flower heads, petals, calyxes or roots cultivated in vivo or in vitro.

[0035] The term "in vivo culture" refers to any of the conventional types of culture, ie, in soil, outdoors or in a greenhouse, or outside the soil.

[0036] The term "in vitro culture" refers to all the techniques known to the person skilled in the art that make it possible to artificially obtain plants or parts of plants, the selective pressure imposed making it possible to obtain standardized and year-round available plant material, as opposed to in vivo cultured plants.

[0037] In particular, said rosebush extract may be obtained from the flowers, the flower heads and / or the leaves.

[0038] formulation The extract according to the invention can be formulated in any cosmetic composition, in particular for application to the skin, nails or mucous membranes. Depending on the method of administration to be followed, the composition of the invention can be in any of the presentation forms usually used.

[0039] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

[0040] The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with keratinous materials, in particular the skin. According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention may be administered via the topical route.

[0041] According to a preferred embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may be present in the composition in a concentration ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of said extract, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight of said extract, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight of said extract, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Advantageously, the extract according to the invention may be formulated or dissolved in water or a water-soluble organic solvent, or a mixture thereof.

[0043] Water-soluble organic solvents suitable for use in the present invention include lower monoalcohols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms and C alkoxysilanes containing 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably 3 to 5 hydroxyl groups. 2 ~C 8 , preferably C 3 ~C6 It may be selected from hydrocarbon-based compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0044] Among the water-soluble organic solvents suitable for use in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of glycols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, propylene glycol or 1,3-propanediol are most particularly suitable for use in the present invention.

[0045] Among the lower monoalcohols, mention may be made in particular of those containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the water-soluble organic solvent is ethanol.

[0047] The water-soluble organic solvent may constitute 20% by mass to 90% by mass, preferably 30% by mass to 80% by mass, more preferably 40% by mass to 70% by mass, and even more preferably 50% by mass to 60% by mass of the composition containing it.

[0048] The water suitable for use in the present invention may be spring water and / or mineral water, in particular selected from Vittel water, Vichy basin water and La Roche Posay water. The water suitable for use in the present invention may be a floral water, such as rose water.

[0049] Water may constitute 20% to 90% by weight, preferably 30% to 80% by weight, more preferably 40% to 70% by weight, and even more preferably 50% to 60% by weight of the composition containing it. Advantageously, water constitutes up to 50% by weight of the composition containing it.

[0050] The compositions for topical application to keratinous materials, and in particular to the skin or its integuments, may in particular be in the form of aqueous or oily solutions or dispersions of lotion or serum type, in the form of emulsions of milk type with a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or vice versa (W / O), or in the form of suspensions or emulsions of aqueous or anhydrous gel or cream type with a soft consistency, or in the form of microcapsules or microparticles, or in the form of vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

[0051] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, hands, feet, major anatomical folds or body (e.g. day creams, night creams, make-up creams, make-up remover creams, foundation creams or sunscreen creams), liquid foundations, make-up compositions such as make-up remover milks, protective or care body milks, sunscreen milks, skin care lotions, gels or foams such as cleansing lotions, sunscreen lotions, artificial suntan lotions, bath compositions, deodorant compositions containing germicides, aftershave gels or lotions or hair removal creams. These compositions may also constitute solid formulations constituting soaps or cleansing bars, or may be packaged in the form of aerosol compositions containing a pressurizing agent.

[0052] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: at least one oil, such as a volatile oil, in particular a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil; and / or at least one fatty substance, e.g. a fatty substance that is solid at 25°C may include.

[0053] The amounts of the various components in the composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields considered.

[0054] When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, waxes, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifiers and coemulsifiers may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] When the composition is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

[0056] The cosmetic composition of the invention may contain in a known manner adjuvants that are conventional in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odor absorbents and colorants. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and range, for example, from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid globules.

[0057] The oils or waxes that may be used in the present invention may include mineral oils (liquid petrolatum), vegetable oils (shea butter liquid, sunflower oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils (purcellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone), and fluoro oils (perfluoropolyethers), beeswax, carnauba wax, or paraffin wax. Fatty alcohols, fatty acids (stearic acid) may be added to these oils.

[0058] Emulsifiers that may be used in the present invention may include, for example, glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate mixture sold under the name Tefose® 63 by Gattefosse.

[0059] Solvents that may be used in the present invention may include lower alcohols, particularly ethanol, isopropanol and propylene glycol.

[0060] Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the present invention may include carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums, preferably xanthan gum, and clays, while lipophilic gelling agents may include modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearate, and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose and polyethylene.

[0061] The hybrid rosebush extract according to the invention, obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue, may be obtained by any known means.

[0062] For example, the extract according to the invention can be obtained by extraction with a non-polar volatile solvent derived from petrochemicals, such as hexane, isohexane, cyclohexane, benzene, petroleum ether, propane or butane, followed by settling the water from the plant and concentrating the solvent containing the perfume under vacuum to obtain the extracted perfume essence.The extract according to the invention can also be obtained by steam distillation or hydrodistillation.

[0063] The extract may be an alcoholic mixture obtained by infusing all or part of the rose bush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent.

[0064] Manufacturing Process supercritical CO 2 The general process of extraction using CO2 is known. 2has very special properties and can be used as a natural extraction solvent: the resulting fluid is characterized by a high diffusivity (on the order of a gas), which gives it good capacity for diffusion, and a high density, which gives it high capacity for transport and extraction.

[0065] In a preferred manner, the rosebush extract according to the invention is prepared by subjecting all or part of said rosebush to supercritical CO2 extraction. 2 and in particular according to any one of the variants described in WO 2012 / 085366, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0066] According to this preferred embodiment, the rosebush extract is therefore obtained by subjecting all or part of the rosebush extract to supercritical CO 2 extraction. 2 The alcoholic mixture may also be obtained by leaching all or part of the rose bush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent.

[0067] Supercritical CO according to the present invention 2 The extraction step by may be carried out in a static or dynamic mode.

[0068] According to the present invention, CO 2 is preferably used in countercurrent mode at a pressure of 130-200 bar and a temperature of 35-55°C, more preferentially at 150 bar and 45°C, and is particularly suitable for obtaining fresh flower and / or leaf extracts that are clear and stable, almost free of sugar, colorants and water, and have an alcohol value of at least 75%.

[0069] Advantageously, the process according to the invention comprises the steps of: 2 The extract obtained after extraction with is concentrated as obtained under vacuum with gentle heating at a temperature below 60°C or concentrated on a carrier such as natural oils, shea butter, natural glycerol or natural aroma molecules such as natural benzyl acetate, natural geraniol or natural nerolidol.

[0070] As an example of an alcoholic solvent according to the present invention, a natural alcohol selected from methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol and isoamyl alcohol is used, preferably ethanol, which has a lower boiling point (except for methanol) and is particularly less toxic than methanol. The alcoholic solvent may be an ethanolic solvent.

[0071] Most particularly, said alcoholic mixture may be obtained after infusion of the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves in at least one bath comprising an alcoholic solvent at a temperature below 50° C. to obtain an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic mixture or a scented alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic mixture.

[0072] According to the invention, the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves are preferentially infused in an alcoholic solvent at ambient temperature, ie a temperature between 15 and 35°C.

[0073] Thus, the alcoholic mixture may be obtained by leaching all or part of said rosebush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent.

[0074] The rosebush extract according to the invention may contain in particular volatile compounds, in particular at least one compound selected from the following: cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, C 6Alcohol, diethoxyethanol, methylheptenone, acetin or related compounds, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, diacetin or related compounds, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinen-4-ol, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, cystearspiran, delta-elemene, citronellyl a Acetate, Geranyl Acetate, Alpha-Copaene, Beta-Elemene, Coumarin, Hydroxyeduran or Isomer, Beta-Caryophyllene, Dihydro-Beta-Ionine, Dihydro-Beta-Ionol, Alpha-Jumulene, Gamma-Muurolene, Germacrene D, Alpha-Cadinene, Beta-Bisabolene, Gamma-Cadinene, Gamma-Eudesmol, Beta-Eudesmol, Alpha-Cadinol, 4-Oxo-Dihydro-Beta-Ionol, Benzyl Benzoate, Ethyl Myristate, C 19 Alkenes, C 19 Alkanes, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C 20 Alkane, C 21 Alkanes, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosane, dihydro-β-ionol esters.

[0075] In particular, the rosebush extract according to the invention may contain a number of compounds selected from the following: cis-3-hexenol, trans-2-hexenol, C 6Alcohol, diethoxyethanol, methylheptenone, acetin or related compounds, cis-3-hexenyl acetate, hexyl acetate, phenylacetaldehyde, benzyl alcohol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, diacetin or related compounds, benzyl acetate, diethyl succinate, terpinen-4-ol, nerol, citronellol, geraniol, geranial, cystearspiran, delta-elemene, citronellyl a Acetate, Geranyl Acetate, Alpha-Copaene, Beta-Elemene, Coumarin, Hydroxyeduran or Isomer, Beta-Caryophyllene, Dihydro-Beta-Ionine, Dihydro-Beta-Ionol, Alpha-Jumulene, Gamma-Muurolene, Germacrene D, Alpha-Cadinene, Beta-Bisabolene, Gamma-Cadinene, Gamma-Eudesmol, Beta-Eudesmol, Alpha-Cadinol, 4-Oxo-Dihydro-Beta-Ionol, Benzyl Benzoate, Ethyl Myristate, C 19 Alkenes, C 19 Alkanes, palmitic acid, ethyl palmitate, C 20 Alkane, C 21 Alkanes, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenate, ethyl linolenate, ethyl stearate, tricosene, tricosane, dihydro-β-ionol esters.

[0076] In particular, supercritical CO 2 The rosebush extract according to the invention obtained by extraction with may, for example, contain at least one compound chosen from: geraniol, geranial, nerol and citronellol.

[0077] According to one embodiment, the rosebush extract according to the invention may also contain at least one compound chosen from: cis- or trans-theaspirane, dihydro-beta-ionone, dihydro-beta-ionol, 4-oxodihydronetaionol.

[0078] During infusion, the flowers, flower heads, and / or leaves may be immersed in an alcoholic solvent and gently swirled.

[0079] Advantageously, the infusion is carried out using a solvent circulation in a closed circuit, i.e. the solvent circulates over the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves, in particular without breaking the petals, creating a movement in the extractor and avoiding a saturated area of ​​the solvent around the petals. This swirling results in a solvent that is less saturated and therefore capable of carrying out the extraction. Alternatively, infusion in baths may be carried out simultaneously or successively, depending on the amount of flowers and / or leaves to be treated.

[0080] For example, a single bath can be prepared and then rinsed with fresh extraction solvent, so that the final mass / mass ratio of flowers-leaves / alcoholic solvent is between 1:1 and 1:10, preferentially between 1:1 and 1:3, or several baths can be prepared with the same flowers and / or leaves, or several treatments of flowers and / or leaves in the same bath are also possible due to the low saturation of ethanol.

[0081] For example, it may be advantageous to carry out several retreatments of the flowers and / or leaves in the same alcoholic bath, saturating it, for example up to five times, thereby concentrating the primary alcoholic extract, since the process for obtaining said extract involves the use of supercritical CO 2 In the case of including an extraction step by, for example, ethanol, it may prove to be more economical in terms of transportation and the amount to be processed.

[0082] According to the present process, the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves are then generally drained, avoiding excessive crushing, and the alcoholic mixture thus obtained is filtered to recover an alcoholic floral infusion suitable for cold storage at a temperature of about 4-10°C for a period ranging from one day to several months.

[0083] Thus, the process for obtaining a rosebush extract may comprise the following steps: a) infusing all or part of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the varieties Meichibon and Delgramaue in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic mixture; b) optionally filtering the alcoholic mixture to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and c) supercritical CO of the alcoholic mixture or the alcoholic floral infusion. 2 and obtaining said extract.

[0084] The process for obtaining a rosebush extract may comprise the following steps: a) picking the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue; b) infusing the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves provided in step a) in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent, in particular an ethanolic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C to obtain an alcoholic mixture; c) optionally filtering the alcoholic mixture to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and d) supercritical CO2 of the alcoholic mixture or the alcoholic floral infusion. 2 and obtaining said extract.

[0085] Throughout this description, including the claims, the word "comprising" is to be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one," unless otherwise specified.

[0086] Additionally, the term "at least one" should be understood to be synonymous with "one or more," unless otherwise specified.

[0087] The terms "more than," "to," and "in the range of" should be understood to include the endpoints, unless otherwise specified.

[0088] The following examples and figures are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the invention. Compounds are sometimes referred to as chemical names or as CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) names. EXAMPLES

[0089] Example 1 - White Rose Supercritical CO 2 Extract Production The hybrid cultivar of rose was obtained by controlled crossing of two cultivars: a maternal cultivar (Tchaikovsky® Meichibon) and a paternal cultivar (La Rose du Petit Prince / Rose Synactif (Shiseido® by Delgramaue)).

[0090] The maternal line is also called Meichibon (botanical name). The paternal line is also called Delgramau (botanical name).

[0091] “Supercritical CO 2 The protocol followed to obtain the extract is that described in WO 2012 / 085366.

[0092] Briefly, said protocol consists in obtaining an extract from fresh and / or slightly withered rose flowers, flower heads and / or leaves according to the invention, and accordingly comprises the following steps: a) picking rose flowers, flower heads and / or leaves; b) infusing said freshly picked flowers, flower heads and / or leaves in at least one bath containing an ethanolic solvent at a temperature below 50°C, e.g. at ambient temperature, to obtain an alcoholic mixture (here an ethanolic mixture); c) filtering the alcoholic mixture to recover an alcoholic floral infusion; and d) Supercritical CO of the alcoholic floral infusion. 2 Extraction by (CO in Fig. 1) 2sc extraction) at 45°C and a pressure of 150 bar to obtain said extract; and e) Concentrating the extract under moderate vacuum (100-500 mbar) at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

[0093] Example 2 - Supercritical CO of White Rose Obtained According to Example 1 2 Evaluation of the decolorizing effect of the extract A) Materials and Methods The extract obtained according to Example 1 dissolved in DMSO was evaluated by topical application at 20 μg / ml and 100 μg / ml on a pigmented Episkin model reconstituted in a dry incubator.

[0094] The results are compared to those of a solvent (DMSO) control and a reference whitening active agent (rucinol).

[0095] To determine the effect of treatment on the epidermis, the histological quality of the epidermis after treatment was evaluated on HES stained tissue sections.

[0096] We also assessed melanocyte physiology to detect melanocyte cytotoxicity.

[0097] If the tested active agent does not show any alterations in terms of histology or cytotoxicity with respect to melanocytes, pigmentation is quantified by quantifying the melanin content on tissue sections by image analysis (Fontana-Masson staining).

[0098] Microscopic quantification of melanin: The melanin present in the PRE is stained on tissue slides (Fontana-Masson staining) and then quantified by image analysis.

[0099] Each epidermal slide is digitized using a Nanozoomer®.

[0100] For each epidermis, extract approximately 10-15 images (white light, 20x magnification).

[0101] The area occupied by melanin is quantified using Histolab® software.

[0102] Statistical method: Two parameters were applied for the interpretation of the statistical results: graphic comparison (box-plots) and p-value significance (Mann-Whitney U test).

[0103] Up to six replicates were run for each treatment group.

[0104] Statistical significance between test groups and corresponding vehicle controls was determined using the non-parametric Mann-Whitney U test (n=6).

[0105] Statistical significance is defined as a p-value less than 0.05.

[0106] All box-plots and Mann-Whitney U tests were performed by SPSS® software.

[0107] B) Result The results are shown in Table 1 below and in FIG.

[0108] [Table 1]

[0109] The area occupied by melanin was quantified using Histolab® software and is expressed by the average number of pixels per image, therefore the higher the average number of pixels per image, the larger the area occupied by melanin.

[0110] Conclusion: A reduction in the average number of pixels per image was observed with the extract from Example 1 compared to the DMSO negative control, reflecting a reduction in the area occupied by melanin, which was similar to or greater than that observed with rucinol, the positive control of the study.

[0111] Example 3 - Decolorized Emulsion A decolorizing emulsion was prepared having the following composition:

[0112] [Table 2]

[0113] The percentages indicated correspond to weight percent based on the total weight of the composition.

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an extract of a hybrid rose bush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue as an agent for whitening, lightening and / or depigmenting the skin, said extract being obtained by extraction with supercritical CO2 of an alcoholic mixture of the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves of said rose bush.

2. 2. Use according to claim 1 for evening out the complexion, improving the radiance of the complexion, removing pigmentation or age spots and / or as a sun protection agent.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the alcoholic mixture is obtained after infusion of the flowers, flower heads and / or leaves of the rose bush in at least one bath containing an alcoholic solvent, at a temperature below 50°C, to obtain an alcoholic mixture.

4. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for depigmenting, lightening and / or whitening the skin, comprising applying in a physiologically acceptable medium a cosmetic composition containing an extract of a hybrid rosebush obtained by crossing the cultivars Meichibon x Delgramaue, said extract being obtained by extracting with supercritical CO2 an alcoholic mixture of flowers, flower heads and / or leaves of the rosebush.

5. 5. The method of claim 4, wherein the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin of an individual suffering from a dull complexion, an uneven complexion, brownish pigmentation spots or melasma, or to the skin of an individual wishing to eliminate the appearance of a brownish color caused by melanogenesis.

6. 6. The method according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the rosebush extract is present in the composition in a concentration ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight of the extract relative to the total weight of the composition.

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