Composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion
The oil-in-water emulsion composition, featuring C14-C30 fatty alcohol, anionic surfactants, hydrophilic acrylic polymers, and amphiphilic acrylic copolymers, addresses the issues of greasiness and texture in existing cosmetic compositions, offering a stable, non-greasy, and easily spreadable solution for skin care.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/CN2023/131695
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-11-15
- Publication Date
- 2025-05-22
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions in the form of creams or emulsions often have a thick, greasy texture that is difficult to apply evenly and does not provide a pleasant sensory experience, such as hydration or freshness.
A composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising more than 2 wt.% of C14-C30 fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant, a hydrophilic acrylic polymer, and an amphiphilic acrylic copolymer, which provides excellent texture, consistency, and non-greasy sensory experience.
The composition is stable with no phase separation or granules, has excellent shear thinning and smoothness, and provides a non-greasy, easily spreadable texture on the skin, enhancing the overall sensory experience.
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2023131695-FTAPPB-I100001 
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Figure PCTCN2023131695-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONTECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion. In addition, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.BACKGROUND ART
[0002] The development of formulations dedicated to caring for and / or making up the skin and / or lips, is permanent. Said formulations have to show satisfactory properties in terms of application, such as easy usage, and also in terms of sensory, such as hydration and / or moisturizing feeling, freshness after application.
[0003] A wide variety of cosmetic compositions have been used to care for the skin, in particular to provide moisturizing or hydration to the skin. These compositions typically contain lipophilic moisturizing agents that inhibit water loss via occlusion. For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or emulsions. Thanks to the thick texture of the compositions, it is possible to provide to the skin moisturizing feeling via occlusion.
[0004] However, these types of products are still not satisfying.
[0005] Consumers feel an unappealing greasy after application of the product. Moreover, due to the thick texture of the products, it is not easy to apply on the skin evenly and the texture change is not very good.
[0006] There is thus still a need to formulate a stable composition for caring for the skin, which has non-greasy feeling and good texture in terms of consistency, shear thinning and smoothness. The composition is expected to be easily spread on the skin during application.
[0007] It is therefore desirable to provide stable compositions, preferably caring for and / or making up of keratin materials, which present excellent texture and sensory characteristics.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.
[0009] Specifically, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate stable compositions, preferably for caring for and / or making up of keratin materials, which present excellent texture in terms of consistency, shear thinning, and smoothness as well as non-greasiness sensory.
[0010] Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising:
[0011] (i) more than 2 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0012] (ii) at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates;
[0013] (iii) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer; and
[0014] (iv) at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0015] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oily phase.
[0016] In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
[0017] The composition of the present invention is easily applied evenly on the skin, without long term massaging by fingers.
[0018] The composition of the present invention can present excellent consistency, shear thinning and smoothness during application as well as non-greasy sensory.
[0019] The composition of the present invention is stable, i.e. there is no phase separation and no granules observed after being stored 2 months at all of 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) , and 45 ℃.
[0020] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0021] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0022] In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ... " and "from ... to ... " .
[0023] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
[0024] Throughout the instant application, the term "comprising" is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. "consisting of" ) .
[0025] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about" . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
[0026] As used herein, the term "keratin materials" refer to the skin and the lips. By "skin" , we intend to mean all the body skin, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material is the facial skin.
[0027] All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
[0028] The composition according to the present invention comprises:
[0029] (i) more than 2 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0030] (ii) at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates;
[0031] (iii) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer; and
[0032] (iv) at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0033] C14-C30 Fatty Alcohols
[0034] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises more than 2 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] The term "fatty alcohol" means any alcohol with the structure R-OH, wherein R denoting a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain.
[0036] The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" means an organic group predominantly consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
[0037] The fatty alcohol (s) present in the composition in accordance with the invention comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0038] Preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol comprises a hydrocarbon-based chain which is a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol comprises a hydrocarbon-based chain which is a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0039] The C14-C30 fatty alcohol (s) suitable for the composition of the present invention, for example, are myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol) , cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecen-1-ol) , cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol) , lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol) , ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol) , myricyl alcohol and melissyl alcohol (1-triacontanol) .
[0040] Preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , and mixtures thereof.
[0041] More preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , and mixtures thereof.
[0042] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one C14-C20 fatty alcohol in an amount greater than 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the C14-C30 fatty alcohol. The inventors have found that the composition has excellent shearing robustness when the composition comprises at least one C14-C20 fatty alcohol in an amount greater than 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the C14-C30 fatty alcohol.
[0043] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises cetearyl alcohol.
[0044] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol with the weight ratio of arachidyl alcohol to behenyl alcohol of larger than 0.5.
[0045] Advantageously, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 2.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 3.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] Anionic acid surfactants
[0047] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates.
[0048] It is understood in the present description that:
[0049] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
[0050] the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-) but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0051] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is selected from fatty acid amide sulfonates and alkyl sulfates.
[0052] More preferably, the fatty acid amide sulfonate is selected from those of formula (I) :
[0053] wherein:
[0054] R1 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain with 7 to 21 carbon atoms atoms,
[0055] R2 is H or a methyl,
[0056] R3 is H, COO-M+, CH2COO-M+ or COOH,
[0057] n is 0 to 2, and
[0058] M is selected from sodium, potassium, and ammonium.
[0059] Preferably, the fatty acid amide sulfonate is selected from taurates.
[0060] Preferred taurates are those according to formula (II)
[0061] wherein
[0062] R1 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain with 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0063] R2 is H or methyl, and
[0064] M is sodium or potassium.
[0065] Suitable examples of taurates include potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0066] Preferred are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof.
[0067] Preferably, the alkyl sulfate is chosen from C12-C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohols salts, for example, sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
[0068] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.
[0069] Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0070] In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfate as anionic surfactant.
[0071] According to some particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention, the anionic surfactant is sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] Hydrophilic acrylic polymers
[0074] According to the first aspect, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer.
[0075] As used herein, the term "hydrophilic acrylic polymers" especially means non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic polymers.
[0076] The hydrophilic acrylic polymers which may be used according to the invention include polymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a salt or an ester thereof, such as acryloyldimethyltaurate polymer, preferably ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the company Clariant, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant.
[0077] Preferably, the hydrophilic acrylic polymers are crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid. The crosslinking agent used in the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid is selected from an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene.
[0078] As commercial examples for crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, mention can be made of, for example, carbomers, such as the products sold under the names 940, 941, 980, 981 sold by the company LUBRIZOL, the product sold under the name 980 by the company COREL PHARMA CHEM, and the products sold under the names K by the company 3V.
[0079] For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is carbomer.
[0080] The inventors unexpectedly found that the introduce of a hydrophilic acrylic polymer as defined into the combination of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates, and at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer, the system obtained would have a good smoothness with no granules.
[0081] Advantageously, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] Amphiphilic acrylic copolymers
[0083] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0084] These copolymers comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain. They are therefore amphiphilic copolymers.
[0085] A fatty chain of such a polymer may comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0086] Preferably, the acrylic copolymers are amphiphilic copolymers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) , which are also called copolymers.
[0087] copolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked.
[0088] Among the crosslinking agents that may be suitable for use, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner, of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) .
[0089] The degree of crosslinking may range from 0.01 mol%to 10 mol%and particularly from 0.2 mol%to 2 mol%relative to the copolymer.
[0090] These copolymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or alkyl-substituted derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with mono-or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacryl amide, vinylpyrrolidone, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.
[0091] An amphiphilic acrylic copolymer suitable for the present invention may be selected from amphiphilic copolymers of and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0092] The hydrophobic part may be a saturated or unsaturated linear (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl) , branched (for example isostearic) or cyclic (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) alkyl radical.
[0093] An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer that is suitable for use in the invention may be selected from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (A) below:
[0094] in which:
[0095] R27 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl) ,
[0096] Y denotes O or NH;
[0097] R28 denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0098] The hydrophobic radical R28 is selected from saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C30 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl) , branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane) .
[0099] Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred.
[0100] According to one embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R28 may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain.
[0101] A polyoxyalkylene chain may be formed from ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly be formed solely from ethylene oxide units.
[0102] The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more particularly from 3 to 25 mol and even more particularly from 5 to 25 mol.
[0103] An amphiphilic copolymer in accordance with the invention may be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0104] Among the amphiphilic copolymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or noncrosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising from 15 wt. %to 60 wt. %of AMPS units and from 40 wt. %to 85 wt. %of (C8-C20) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or of (C8-C20) alkyl (meth) acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 750 899.
[0105] As amphiphilic copolymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated (crosslinked or noncrosslinked) copolymers of and of alkyl methacrylates, and mixtures thereof, the number of moles of oxyethylene units ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.
[0106] As amphiphilic copolymers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and / or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked.
[0107] Mention may also be made of crosslinked or noncrosslinked amphiphilic copolymers comprising, or even formed from:
[0108] 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid units of formula (B) below:
[0109] in which X may be a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;
[0110] and units of formula (C) below:
[0111] in which:
[0112] n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, in particular from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 3 to 25, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30;
[0113] R27 has the same meaning indicated in the preceding formula (A) , and
[0114] R29 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 7 to 22.
[0115] In formula (B) , the cation X may more particularly denote sodium or ammonium.
[0116] Mention may be made in particular of:
[0117] noncrosslinked amphiphilic copolymers for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents C18 alkyl or a mixture of C16 alkyl and C18 alkyl, and
[0118] crosslinked amphiphilic copolymers for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R27 denotes methyl and R29 represents C18 alkyl or a mixture of C16 alkyl and C18 alkyl.
[0119] These copolymers are described and synthesized in document EP 1 069 142.
[0120] The molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (B) and of the units of formula (C) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may vary as a function of the desired cosmetic application, the nature of the emulsion (oil-in- water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation.
[0121] It can range between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.
[0122] The molar proportion of units of formula (B) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may preferably range from 0.1%to 50%, more particularly from 1%to 25%) and even more particularly from 3%to 10%.
[0123] The molar proportion of units of formula (C) in an amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may preferably range from 50.1%to 99.9%, more particularly from 60%to 95%and even more particularly from 65%to 90%.
[0124] The distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example, alternate, block (including multiblock) or random.
[0125] As a guide, and without this being limiting, mention may be made of the following commercial references: HMS and HMB sold by Clariant, these two references relating to crosslinked polymers.
[0126] HMS is the name of the / ethoxylated (25 EO) cetearyl methacrylate copolymer 80 / 20, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as the INCI name.
[0127] As the INCI name, HMB is ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.
[0128] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of AMPS and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl contains from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene units ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.
[0129] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer selected from ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and a combination hereof.
[0130] According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer.
[0131] The inventors unexpectedly found that the introduce of an amphiphilic acrylic copolymer into the combination of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates, and at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer, the system obtained would have a suitable consistency and can delive a non-greasy film on keratin materials.
[0132] Advantageously, the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Aqueous phase
[0134] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
[0135] Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The continuous aqueous phase may comprise water, at least one organic solvent miscible with water or mixtures thereof.
[0137] Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 85 wt. %, preferably from 20 wt. %to 80 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0138] Preferably, the continuous hydrophilic phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25℃) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.
[0139] In some embodiments, the continuous hydrophilic phase of the composition of the present invention may comprise water and a polyol, preferably glycerin.
[0140] The organic solvent is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises 20 wt.%to 80 wt. %of water and 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] Oily phase
[0143] As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention further comprises a dispersed oily phase.
[0144] The oily phase contains at least one oil, notably a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
[0145] The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (20℃) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
[0146] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0147] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
[0148] The term "volatile oil" means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0149] The oily phase may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0150] They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
[0151] The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0152] For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the hydrocarbon-based oil is isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate.
[0153] The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group.
[0154] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[0155] Advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.
[0156] Cosmetic active ingredients
[0157] As a composition for caring for keratin materials, the composition of the present invention may comprise a cosmetic active ingredient.
[0158] As examples of cosmetic active ingredient, mention can be made of moisturizing agents; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B5 (panthenol) , and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; brightening agents; tightening agents; peeling agents; repairing and soothing agents; anti-aging agents; agents acting on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] It is easy for the skilled person in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0160] Additional adjuvants or additives
[0161] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance fragrances, chelating agents, preserving agents and bactericides, additional surfactants, additional thickeners, fillers, pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] The skilled person in the art can adjust the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
[0163] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0164] (i) from 3.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition;
[0165] (ii) from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates according to formula (II)
[0166] wherein
[0167] R1 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain with 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0168] R2 is H or methyl, and
[0169] M is sodium or potassium,
[0170] sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and
[0171] mixtures thereof;
[0172] (iii) from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer selected from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid; and
[0173] (iv) from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl contains from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene units ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.
[0174] Method and use
[0175] The composition of the present invention can be used for caring for and / or making up keratin materials.
[0176] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
[0177] In particular, the keratin material can be the skin, for example the facial skin.
[0178] EXAMPLES
[0179] The examples that follow are given as non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.
[0180] Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
[0181] Table 1
[0182] Invention Examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-5
[0183] Compositions of invention examples (IE) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE) 1-5 were prepared based on the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in %by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0184] Table 2
[0185] Compositions of invention examples 1-2 represents compositions according to the present invention.
[0186] Composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise any C14-C30 fatty alcohol.
[0187] Composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise a hydrophilic acrylic polymer.
[0188] Composition of comparative example 3 does not comprise an amphiphilic acrylic copolymer.
[0189] Composition of comparative example 4 does not comprise an anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates.
[0190] Composition of comparative example 5 does not comprise more than 2 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0191] Preparation process:
[0192] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows, taking the composition of invention example 1 as an example:
[0193] 1. homogenizing anionic surfactant, the ingredients for the aqueous phase including polymers and the ingredients for the oily phase including oils and fatty alcohol at 75 ℃;
[0194] 2. emulsifying at 75 ℃ for 10 minutes to obtain the mixture; and
[0195] 3. cooling the mixture to room temperature with gentle stirring.
[0196] Evaluation of compositions
[0197] The stability and texture of each composition prepared and sensory delivered by them were evaluated.
[0198] Stability
[0199] Each composition was stored for 2 months at 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) , and 45 ℃, respectively, observed from aspect and under microscopy. If there is no phase separation and there is no significant evolution on oil droplet size and crystallization type after a composition was stored for 2 months at all of 4 ℃, room temperature (20 ℃) , and 45 ℃, then the composition is evaluated as "stable" , otherwise, it is evaluated as "not stable" .
[0200] Texture
[0201] It was observed that all compositions obtained have a cream-like texture. The texture of each of compositions of invention example 1-2 and comparative examples 1-5 was further evaluated in terms of smoothness, consistency, shear thinning property and viscosity gap with specific in rheology measurement protocol.
[0202] For the smoothness evaluation, the sample was spread on a black plate after stored at room temperature for 2 months as a layer with a thickness of 0.5-1mm with a spatula, then to observe whether there are granules.
[0203] Smoothness was scored according to the following standard by a cosmetic expert:
[0204] 1. Not smooth at all with lots of granules
[0205] 2. Not very smooth with visible granules
[0206] 3. Somehow not smooth with several granules
[0207] 4. Smooth but with little granules
[0208] 5. Very smooth with no granules
[0209] For the purpose of the present invention, the score of the smoothness equal to or larger than 3 is acceptable.
[0210] Consistency is used to evaluate the density of a composition at first application. The consistency was evaluated with a viscosimeter. Typically, 5 g of each of compositions of invention example 1 and comparative example 1-5 was taken into the viscosimeter, and agitated uniformly, and the viscosity of each composition was recorded at 10 seconds (T10s) . The viscosity of each composition at T10s is used to evaluate the consistency. Larger viscosity the composition has, better consistency the composition has, better density the composition has.
[0211] For the purpose of the present invention, the viscosity of the composition at T10s larger than 6000 mPa. s is acceptable.
[0212] The shear thinning is used to evaluate the texture change and freshness of a composition during application. The shear thinning was evaluated with a viscosimeter. Typically, 5 g of each of compositions of invention example 1 and comparative example 1-5 was taken into the viscosimeter, and agitated uniformly, and the viscosity of each composition was recorded at 10 seconds (T10s) and 30 seconds (T30s) , respectively. The difference value of viscosity of each composition at T10s and at T30s is used to evaluate the shear thinning. Larger difference value of viscosity at T10s and at T30s the composition has, better shear thinning the composition has, better texture change and freshness the composition has.
[0213] For the purpose of the present invention, the difference value of viscosity larger than 300 mPa. s is acceptable.
[0214] The viscosity gap was evaluated as follows: firstly, a shearing at an increasing rate from 1 s-1 to 200 s-1 was applied to samples for 3 minutes, next a shear rate at 200 s-1 was maintained for 2 minutes, then shearing was stopped for 5 minutes to let samples recover from structure disturbance, then a shearing at a decreasing rate from 200 s-1 to 1 s-1 was applied for 3 minutes. The viscosity of samples was recorded with the change of shear rate. The viscosity gap is the difference between the initial viscosity and the final viscosity, which can be used to evaluate shearing robustness, i.e., the recovery of structure after shearing. The smaller the viscosity gap of a composition is, the better the shearing robustness of the composition is, the better the filling performance of the composition is. Generally, if the value of viscosity gap is not more than 10000 mpa. s, the shearing robustness is considered acceptable.
[0215] Sensory
[0216] Sensory delivered by each of compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1-5 were scored by 5 skin experts in terms of non-greasiness according to the following standard.
[0217] 1: very greasy
[0218] 2: greasy
[0219] 3: some greasiness
[0220] 4: a little greasy
[0221] 5: not greasy
[0222] For the purpose of the present invention, the score of the non-greasiness equal to or larger than 3 is acceptable.
[0223] The results of the stability and texture in terms of consistency, shear thinning, and smoothness of compositions of invention example 1 and comparative examples 1-5 as well as sensory delivered by them were summarized below.
[0224] Table 3
[0225] The composition of invention examples 1-2 are stable and present a good texture, provide the skin with good sensory.
Claims
1.A composition in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, preferably for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising:(i) more than 2 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition;(ii) at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates and sulfates;(iii) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymers; and(iv) at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymers.2.Composition according to claim 1, wherein the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably, R denoting a linear alkyl or alkenyl comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.3.Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, preferably, the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is selected from behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.4.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C14-C30 fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 2.5 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, more preferably from 3.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition comprises at least one C14-C20 fatty alcohol in an amount greater than 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the C14-C30 fatty alcohol.5.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from fatty acid amide sulfonates, alkyl sulfates, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from fatty acid amide sulfonates of formula (I) : wherein:R1 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain with 7 to 21 carbon atoms atoms,R2 is H or a methyl,R3 is H, COO-M+, CH2COO-M+or COOH,n is 0 to 2, andM is selected from sodium, potassium, and ammonium,C12-C24 alkyl sulfates in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohols salts, andmixtures thereof.6.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, preferably, selected from sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, and mixture thereof.7.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 6, wherein the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.8.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is selected from polymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid or a salt or an ester thereof, preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, more preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from carbomers.9.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition10.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is selected from amphiphilic copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,preferably, the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl contains from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene units ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol,more preferably, the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is selected from ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and a combination hereof.11.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, wherein the amphiphilic acrylic copolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 wt%to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.12.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, more preferably from 20 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.13.Composition according to any of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition comprises an oily phase in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 30 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.14.Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:(i) from 3.5 wt. %to 8 wt. %of at least one C14-C30 fatty alcohol selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, relative to the total weight of the composition;(ii) from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfonates according to formula (II)whereinR1 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain with 7 to 21 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 19 carbon atoms,R2 is H or methyl, andM is sodium or potassium,sodium C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, andmixtures thereof;(iii) from 0.2 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer selected from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid; and(iv) from 0.4 wt. %to 2 wt. %of at least one amphiphilic acrylic copolymer selected from optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylate, the alkyl contains from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of moles of oxyethylene units ranges from 1 to 30 mol, preferably from 3 to 25 mol and more preferably from 5 to 25 mol.15.A non-therapeutic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin materials.
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