Sunscreen compositions

Abstract

A composition is provided, that protects against UV light, in the form of a multiphase system which comprises: (i) a hydrophobic fumed silica; (ii) one or more organic UV filters; (iii) less than 1 wt% of emulsifier(s); and (iv) from 0.1 to 3 wt% of a mixture of a first polymer and a second polymer wherein; the first polymer comprises one or more polymers selected from the group comprising polyacrylic acid, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide or combinations thereof; and, the second polymer comprises one or more taurate based polymers and / or salts of said taurate polymers. A method of manufacture and uses are also provided.

Description

[0001] Sunscreen Compositions

[0002] Field of the Invention

[0003] The present invention relates to compositions, such as cosmetic compositions, for providing protection against the sun and to methods of preparing such compositions. In particular, the invention relates to a composition to be used in cosmetic products, and more particularly to cosmetic compositions that function as sunscreens. Compositions in accordance with the present invention comprise a new UV filter system that has the added benefit of being translucent and gel like in nature, in addition to protecting skin from the ageing effects of UV light and not feeling greasy on skin.

[0004] Background of the Invention

[0005] Protection of the skin against sunburn and other damage associated with exposure to ultraviolet radiation is of great importance, particularly since more people than ever practice outdoor leisure activities and hence are exposed to increasing amounts of sunlight.

[0006] For a long time, the cosmetic industry has made products available such as gels, creams, and oils that contain UV filters. These UV filters are chemical, organic or inorganic, substances which absorb or reflect UVB and / or UVA ultraviolet radiation. Products comprising these UV filters are often referred to as sunscreens or sunscreen compositions / products.

[0007] Sunscreen products provide protection for the skin against UV, which is measured by what is called a sun protection factor (SPF).

[0008] The term "sunscreen" is used herein to encompass compositions which are intended for topical application to provide protection against the sun's rays and / or other sources of ultraviolet (UV) radiation (UVA and UVB); compositions in accordance with the present invention act as such sunscreens. Such sun protection products are used at the beach and / or in sunny conditions.

[0009] Additionally, said sunscreens / sunblockers in accordance with the present invention comprises cosmetic products that provides protection against UV light, for example make-up products such as day creams and foundations that comprise UV filters to provide a SPF against UV radiation. It is known to be advantageous to limit the effects of solar radiation on the skin, in particular those of UVB and UVA. UVB causes mainly solar erythema and in the longer term may cause benign and malignant cutaneous alterations. UVA can be a major factor of cutaneous aging. In general, an excess of UV radiation is harmful to the skin. Exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiation from sunlight or other sources is linked to dryness, wrinkles and uneven pigmentation. Components in sunscreens, which prevent UV light from reaching the skin, are key components of strategies for preventing or reducing skin ageing.

[0010] Generally speaking, it is necessary to provide the maximum SPF protection with the minimum proportion of UV filters, that is to say that it is necessary to optimize the ratio of the SPF to the proportion of filters.

[0011] Many cosmetic day creams contain UV filter components to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation and so prevent or reduce skin ageing that would otherwise be caused by UV light. Traditionally, the UV filter components would be physical or mineral sunscreens such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, but more recently chemical sunscreens have been used alongside or instead of physical UV filters. Chemical UV filters absorb light over a broader wavelength than physical sunscreens. Sunscreens also tend to be waterproof and provide cosmetic benefits to the user and preferably they do not leave a white film on the skin. Usually, two or more UV filters are combined to provide full spectrum protection from UV light.

[0012] Many chemical UV filters are oil soluble, such UV filters are referred to as being organic UV filters, and so are often used in cosmetic oil or emulsion compositions. Emulsions are favoured as they allow the incorporation of both hydrophilic and hydrophobic active components and because their texture can be readily adjusted to suit the consumer’s needs. Furthermore, consumers find emulsions to be aesthetically pleasing.

[0013] As the role of UV light in ageing of the skin has become apparent, there has been a drive to provide sunscreens and day creams with a higher sun protection factor (SPF). This has necessitated compositions comprising higher concentrations of chemical UV filters and consequently larger oil phases. The larger the oil phase, the more difficult it becomes to stabilise the emulsion. Hence, known sunscreens often contain high amounts of oils or emollients in order to solubilise the oil-soluble UV filters that provide the SPF and additionally comprise high levels of emulsifiers to stabilise the emulsion present in such sunscreens. Unfortunately, these high levels of oils and emollients tend to provide products that feel aesthetically poor, giving an oily or greasy texture on the skin. Emulsifiers, due to their chemistry, can irritate the skin. From a consumer perspective, the use of high levels of oil(s) and / or emollient(s) and high emulsifier levels can prove detrimental, particularly following repeated application of such products. Additionally, the costs associated with manufacturing sunscreens may rise due to the need to include additional oils, emollients and / or emulsifiers.

[0014] Unfortunately, standard emulsions that have an SPF, which are used on the face as well as other parts of the body, are generally opaque. This opacity results in products that can be seen on the skin. These products, often in the form of creams or lotions, require repeated “rubbing in” in order to be absorbed into the skin which can prove problematic following multiple applications of such products, and is not desirable to consumers. These products are often white in colour.

[0015] Hence, the problems associated with existing products that provide a SPF are:

[0016] 1. These products tend to be heavy / oily in nature;

[0017] 2. Their mildness needs to be improved to avoid irritation of skin;

[0018] 3. Most emulsions are opaque, resulting in longer rub in times, which is an undesirable feature; and,

[0019] 4. The application of these products needs to be improved by moving away from products that are whitening on the skin which is, in particular, not desirable for use on darker skin.

[0020] Previous attempts to address the problems identified above have included products that: a) comprise emulsions wherein both the aqueous and oil phases are thickened by the addition of polymers; b) comprise an oil gel that is a non-aqueous formulation; and, c) surfactant stabilised emulsions. Summary of the Invention

[0021] According to a first aspect of the present inventions the inventors have surprisingly found a composition in the form of a multiphase system which comprises:

[0022] (i) a hydrophobic fumed silica;

[0023] (ii) one or more organic UV filters; iii) less than 1 wt% of emulsifier(s); and

[0024] (iv) from 0.1 to 3 wt% of a mixture of a first polymer and a second polymer wherein; the first polymer comprises one or more polymers selected from the group comprising polyacrylic acid, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide or combinations thereof; and, the second polymer comprises one or more taurate based polymers and / or salts of said taurate polymers.

[0025] Compositions in accordance with the present invention have been found to give rise to products that provide an improved (higher) SPF, relative to the SPF that is provided by the same combination of UV filters when not used in accordance with the present invention. That is to say that compositions in accordance with the present invention unexpectedly provide a boost to the SPF provided by the UV filters present in the composition; this boost being provided by the presence of the hydrophobic fumed silica in combination with the first polymer and the second polymer. Hence, the present invention provides potential cost savings, in addition to an improved SPF for the UV filters used.

[0026] Compositions in accordance with the present invention are preferably gels, sometimes this type of product is referred to as a “gel cream”; because they are thickened using polymers rather than by the more traditional method of using polymers in combination with waxes. The provision of the composition as a gel means that the spreading of the composition can be carried out in a more controlled manner. Additionally, the absence of the wax that is normally used gives products with a more pleasant texture.

[0027] Preferably the composition in accordance with the present invention is a cosmetic composition.

[0028] Notably, products in accordance with the invention are translucent when applied to the skin of a user, this contrasts with known products that provide similar SPF protection which are normally opaque in nature when applied to the skin of a user. The translucency of products in accordance with the present invention allows the underlying skin to be seen through the applied product, and thus products in accordance with the invention do not appear to be opaque and / or white in nature when applied to the skin.

[0029] Compositions in accordance with the present invention comprise UV filters, but still provide a good feeling on the skin, as opposed to some existing products that are said to provide an unpleasant feeling on skin which is usually described as a heavy or greasy feeling. Products in accordance with the present invention have a fresher / light feeling as compared to traditional products which are heavier and greasier. Additionally, products according to the present invention contain minimal or no emulsifiers which can cause problems with respect to skin tolerance and result in more opaque products.

[0030] Preferably the composition is a multiphase system that comprises a water in oil emulsion, an oil in water emulsion, a water in oil in water emulsion, or an oil in water in oil emulsion. More preferably the composition is a multiphase system that comprises an oil in water emulsion, a water in oil in water emulsion, or an oil in water in oil emulsion. Most preferably the composition comprises an oil in water emulsion.

[0031] The hydrophobic surface of the fumed silica preferably comprises hydrophobic surface groups in the form of organosilane groups.

[0032] Preferably the hydrophobic fumed silica is chosen from a group comprising silica dimethicone silylate, silica caprylyl silylate, silica cetyl silylate and silica dimethyl silylate.

[0033] More preferably the hydrophobic fumed silica is chosen from a group comprising silica dimethyl silylate and silica caprylyl silylate.

[0034] Most preferably the hydrophobic fumed silica comprises silica dimethyl silylate.

[0035] Preferably the fumed silica is present at a level of 0.5 wt% to 3 wt%. More preferably the fumed silica is present at a level of 0.6 wt % to 2.5wt % or 0.6 wt% to 2.0 wt%. Most preferably the fumed silica is present at a level of 0.8 wt% to 1.8 wt% Preferably the composition in accordance with the present invention comprises one or more organic UV filters chosen from a first group comprising UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, and optionally one or more organic UV filters chosen from a second group of UV filters that are solid at 25 °C.

[0036] Preferably the one or more organic UV filters chosen from the first group that are liquid at 25 °C are present at a sufficient level to dissolve the optional one or more organic UV filters chosen from the second group, that are solid at 25°C, when they are present.

[0037] More preferably the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25 °C, are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting of, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysilicone-15, homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), menthyl anthranilate and combinations thereof; and the optional one or more organic UV filters that are solid at 25°C are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting, of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate, and combinations thereof.

[0038] More preferably the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting of, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysilicone-15, homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), and combinations thereof; and the optional one or more organic UV filters, that are solid at 25°C, are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting, of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, and combinations thereof.

[0039] More preferably the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25 °C, are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting of, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate) and combinations thereof; and the optional one or more organic UV filters, that are solid at 25°C, are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting, of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, benzophenone-3, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, and combinations thereof.

[0040] Most preferably the organic UV filters in the composition comprise, or consist of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.

[0041] Preferably the emulsion comprises at least 10 wt% of one or more organic UV filters i.e., UV filters that are organic as opposed to inorganic in nature. The organic UV filters form part of the oil phase.

[0042] Preferably the one or more organic UV filters are present in an amount from 10 to 35wt% of the composition. More preferably the one or more organic UV filters are present in an amount of from 15 to 30wt% of the composition. Most preferably the one or more organic UV filters are present in an amount of from 20 to 30wt% of the composition. For example, the oil phase preferably comprises at least 12 wt%, more preferably at least 15 wt%, more preferably at least 17 wt%, yet more preferably at least 20 wt%, and preferably no more than 35 wt%, and more preferably no more than 30 wt% of the one or more sunscreen filters by weight of the emulsion.

[0043] The one or more organic UV filters are preferably present in an amount sufficient to provide an emulsion with an SPF of at least 25. More preferably the one or more organic UV filters is preferably present in an amount sufficient to provide an emulsion with an SPF of at least 30. Most preferably the one or more organic UV filter component is preferably present in an amount sufficient to provide an emulsion with an SPF of at least 50.

[0044] Preferably the wt%:wt% ratio of the first UV filter to the second UV filter is 2: 1 or greater.

[0045] More preferably the wt%:wt% ratio of the first UV filter to the second UV filter is 4: 1 or greater. Most preferably the wt%:wt% ratio of the first UV filter to the second UV filter is 6: 1 or greater.

[0046] In the present invention the product relies primarily on an oil phase that provides the SPF, the oil phase being comprised almost entirely of organic compounds that act as UV filters thus reducing the amount / number of other oils and / or emollients that are required in the product. Additional UV filters may be added as discussed further below. Additional organic compounds may be added to the composition in order for the composition to provide skin benefits in addition to the desired SPF, e.g. emollients are added to soften and soothe the skin. Peptides and other active ingredients may also be included in the compositions in accordance with the invention, to provide benefits to skin.

[0047] The composition comprises from 0.1 to 3 wt% of a first polymer and a second polymer, these polymers function as a thickener component in the composition. Typically, thickeners are added to compositions to modify the rheology of the composition such that the rheology is suitable for the intended application. Thickeners may also be referred to as viscosity modifying agents or gelling agents.

[0048] In the composition the first polymer comprises or consists of polyacrylic acid, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide or combinations thereof. These polymers act as thickeners in compositions in accordance with the present invention.

[0049] The polyacrylic acid preferably comprises homopolymers and / or co-polymers. The acrylic acid polymer is preferably cross-linked to form a crosspolymer. Polyacrylic acid polymers are often referred to as carbomers.

[0050] The polyacrylate is preferably an alkyl acrylate crosspolymer and / or copolymer. The polyacrylate is preferably selected from acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, polyacrylate-13, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, or combinations thereof.

[0051] The polyacrylamide preferably comprises homopolymers and / or co-polymers. The polyacrylamide homopolymers and copolymers are preferably selected from anionic and / or non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers. Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is a co-polymer. The formation of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer occurs when C10-30 acrylate is combined with monomers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. While carbomers are polymers of acrylic acid monomers, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is comprised of a mixture of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.

[0052] Preferably the first polymer comprises or consists of polyacrylic acid.

[0053] The most preferred first polymer for use in the present invention comprises or consists of a cross-linked homopolymer of polyacrylic acid; suitable polymers are sold under the trade name Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer.

[0054] Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers for use as the first polymer in the present invention are sold under the trade names CARBOPOL ULTREZ-21 which is available from Lubrizol, or Pemulen EZ-4U available from Lubrizol, both having the INCI name: “acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

[0055] It is to be noted that taurate based copolymers are not used as the first polymer.

[0056] In the composition the second polymer comprises or consists of one or more taurate copolymer(s) and / or taurate crosspolymer(s) and / or salts of said taurate copolymer(s) and cross polymer(s).

[0057] Preferably in the composition the second polymer comprises or consists of one or more taurate copolymer(s) and / or taurate crosspolymer(s) and / or salts of said taurate copolymer(s) and cross polymer(s) that are chosen from the group comprising or consisting of acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylic acid copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / carboxyethyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl formamide copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate crosspolymer, HEA / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacryloyldimethyltaurate polyoxymethylene melamine, sodium acrylate / acryloyldimethyltaurate / dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / acrylamide copolymer, sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / PEG-8 diacrylate crosspolymer, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / acrylamide / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone crosspolymer, sodium

[0058] Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] More preferably the second polymer comprises or consists of one or more taurate copolymer(s) and / or taurate crosspolymer(s) that are chosen from the group comprising or consisting of sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / acrylamide / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone crosspolymer.

[0060] Most preferably in the composition the second polymer comprises or consists of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.

[0061] The composition comprises from 0.1 to 3 wt% of a first polymer and a second polymer. The first and second polymers act as thickeners in the composition. Preferably the first polymer and the second polymer are present in the composition in a combined amount of from 0.2 to 2 wt%, or more preferably 0.4 to 1.5 wt%. More preferably the first polymer and second polymer are present in an amount of from 0.4 to 1.0 wt%. Most preferably the first polymer and second polymer are present in an amount of from 0.4 to 0.8% wt%.

[0062] Most compositions that act as sunscreens comprise oil / water emulsions and contain emulsifiers in order to stabilise the emulsion. It has been found that compositions in accordance with the present invention do not require the presence of such emulsifiers to form emulsions that are stable (stable emulsions) for extended periods of at least 3 years, and this can help in reducing the costs associated with preparing suitable compositions. Preferably, compositions in accordance with the present invention comprise emulsifiers at a level of less than 1 wt%, more preferably less than 0.5 wt%, and most preferably at a level of less than 0.1 wt%. Compositions in accordance with the present invention may comprise no emulsifier(s).

[0063] It is believed that the particular combination of the first polymer and second polymer used in combination with the fumed hydrophobic silica in the claimed composition contribute to providing a translucent product.

[0064] Compositions in accordance with the present invention, comprises a fumed silica that further comprises a hydrophobic surface. It has been found that the presence of such as hydrophobic fumed silica provides an unexpected boost to the SPF provided against UV radiation as compared to the SPF that is obtained in the absence of such a hydrophobic fumed silica, as discussed further below; that is to say that a synergistic effect is observed.

[0065] Preferably the claimed composition comprises a conventional water phase; the water phase comprises water and water soluble / dispersible ingredients that are known to the skilled person such as humectants, chelating agents, pH adjusters, water soluble UV filters if required, etc.

[0066] In the present invention the fumed silica preferably has a surface area of 70 to 250 BET / (m2 / g).

[0067] More preferably the fumed silica has a surface area of 80 to 250 BET / (m2 / g).

[0068] Most preferably the fumed silica has a surface area of 85 to 135 BET / (m2 / g).

[0069] In a second aspect of the invention there is provided the use of the composition, as described above in respect of the first aspect of the invention, that provides a non- therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve the condition of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or imperfections and / or skin firmness and elasticity.

[0070] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic method for improving the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or reduce imperfections and / or improve skin firmness and elasticity, comprising topically administering the composition of the first aspect of the invention. In a fourth aspect of the invention there is provided a method of manufacturing a composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 12 comprising the steps of: i) water and EDTA are mixed at 20°C until the EDTA is dissolved, the first polymer is added and an homogeniser is used to provide a homogeneous first mixture; ii) Glycerin and Butylene Glycol are added and the mixture is then heated to a temperature of 75 to 85 °C; iii) the oil soluble UV filters and the caprylyl methicone are separately heated, with mixing, to 75 to 85 °C, and the second polymer is then added to provide a homogenised second mixture; iv) the oil soluble (second) mixture is added to the water soluble (first) mixture whilst maintaining the temperature at 75 to 85 °C and mixing, to provide a homogenised combined (third) mixture; v) silica, if required, is added to the combined (third) mixture with stirring to give a homogenised mixture; vi) the mixture is cooled to below 30°C; vii) the hydrophobic silica and optional ingredients such, perfumes and emollients, are then added to the combined (third) mixture; and, viii) the pH of the mixture is determined and adjusted as required prior to cooling the composition.

[0071] In a fifth aspect, the present invention provides a method comprising applying the composition of the first aspect of the invention to the skin of a subject.

[0072] The invention will now be described solely by way of example with reference to preferred embodiments.

[0073] Description of the Invention

[0074] The present invention is directed towards a composition that is a multiphase system in the form of an oil in water emulsion comprising one or more UV filters, a mixture of a first polymer and a second polymer, and which further comprises a hydrophobic fumed silica wherein an unexpected boost (a synergistic effect) is provided to the SPF of the one or more UV filters that are present. In a preferred embodiment of the invention the composition, as detailed below in Table 2, is in accordance with the present invention. It is to be noted that preferred products in accordance with the invention are more translucent than most existing products, when applied to the skin of a user. This is in contrast to most known products that provide similar SPF protection which are normally opaque in nature when applied to the skin of a user. The translucency of products in accordance with the present invention allows the underlying skin to be seen through the applied product, and hence products in accordance with the invention do not appear to be opaque, and / or white, in nature when applied to the skin.

[0075] Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the hydrophobic silica in the emulsion sits around the oil droplets, i.e. the silylate groups arrange around the oil droplets and thus stabilise the emulsion. Hence, no emulsifier is added to compositions in accordance with the present invention, however, low levels of emulsifiers may be present in said compositions as they may be present in ingredients included in such compositions. It is believed that the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in the composition in Table 2 below, in combination with the cross-linked homopolymer of acrylic acid help to improve the stability of the emulsion that’s formed.

[0076] The emulsion formed is believed to be a pickering emulsion wherein the emulsion is stabilised by solid ingredients collecting around the oil drops and thus stopping said oil drops from reaccumulating. As a result of this the size of the oil droplets within the emulsion is larger than usual.

[0077] The formation of the emulsion is also believed to be further stabilised by the presence of taurate based polymers which act as associative thickeners and are also believed to assist in suspending the oil droplets in the water phase.

[0078] It is also believed that the particle size of the oil droplets in the emulsion is larger than normal - due to use of associative thickener stabilisers and hydrophobic silicas wherein silylate groups on the surface of the silica arrange around the oil droplets, such that the use of traditional emulsifiers is not required; the use of traditional emulsifiers would reduce the particle size of the emulsion. The larger particle size of the emulsion is also believed to assist in providing easier spreading of the oil phase when it is applied to skin, which then assists in providing the observed boost to the SPF of the organic UV filters included in the composition, as illustrated by the results below. The present invention utilises fumed silicas that have had their surface treated to provide hydrophocitiy, such silicas are available commercially, for instance under the trade name Aerosil R972. These types of silicas are sometimes used as a structuring agent in cosmetic formulations.

[0079] Primary particles are the smallest components of a fumed silica (fumed silica oxide) oxide, these particles do not occur in isolation but instead merge to form an aggregate. An aggregate is therefore a group of primary particles that have merged together. The size of these aggregates is generally in the region of lOOnm. An agglomerate is made up of several aggregates. The aggregates that make up an agglomerate are held together as the result of weak interactions (such as van der Waals forces or hydrogen bonds) between the aggregates.

[0080] Products (fumed silicas) created in this way (via flamed hydrolysis) have freely accessible silanol groups (Si-OH) on the particle surface, causing them to be hydrophilic, i.e. they can be wetted by water. These fumed silicas are treated to give the surface hydrophobic properties. This results in a fumed silica that is mainly hydrophobic, e.g. Aerosil R972®

[0081] The overall SPF performance of compositions is primarily a result of the absorbance properties of the chromophore groups present in the UV actives, but additional contributions to the SPF may well be provided by the light scattering properties of the base formulation. In sunscreen formulations scattering results from the presence of i) structures such as micelles due to use of surfactants; ii) a uniform film being formed on the skin; iii) film formers that can provide a stable film on the skin surface in which the sunscreens lie, thus concentrating their activity and therefore their effectiveness, and iv) particles designed to refract or scatter light through the sunscreen film and thus increase the light / chromophore interaction. Examples of these particulate scattering boosters are sold under the trade names Sunhancer Eco available from Lubrizol, SunSpheres and SunSpheres Bio available from Dow.

[0082] It is postulated that the fumed silicas aggregates comprising hydrophobic surfaces that are used in the present invention act to stabilise the oil component of the emulsion by stabilising the oil / water interphase, as discussed above, and potentially also act to scatter UV light within this emulsion structure thus giving the observed boost to the SPF of compositions in accordance with the present invention.

[0083] The composition of the present invention is preferably a cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition is a product designed for use by a consumer and is preferably a skincare cosmetic composition, more preferably a facial skincare cosmetic composition. Most preferably compositions in accordance with the present invention are cosmetic compositions that are used as sunscreen compositions, i.e. compositions that comprise UV filters to provide a SPF.

[0084] The composition of the present invention is a multiple phase system. Preferably the composition is an emulsion. The composition may include but is not limited to liquids, gels, balms, oils or solids. Multiple phase systems according to the present invention preferably include but are not limited to microemulsions and emulsions. Emulsions include water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, and multiple emulsions (water- in-oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions for example).

[0085] Where the composition is an emulsion, it comprises an oil phase and a water phase. The oil phase of the emulsion is preferably be provided by any suitable oily component, but preferably the oil phase is comprised almost entirely of organic compounds that act as UV filters thus reducing the amount of other oils and / or emollients that are required in the oil phase of the product.

[0086] Further oils that may be included in the oil phase comprise for example: (a) hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin or mineral oils; (b) waxes, such as beeswax or paraffin wax; (c) natural oils, such as sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, shea butter or jojoba oil; (d) silicone oils, such as dimethicone, silicone elastomer, cyclomethicone or cetyl dimethicone; (e) fatty acid esters and ethers, such as isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate; caprylic / capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl stearate, PPG- 15 stearyl ether, octyldodecanol, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Caprylyl carbonate, Isononyl isononanoate, Dibutyl adipate, Isostearyl isostearate, Decyl cocoate, Cetyl ethylhexanoate, myristyl myristate, Isoamyl cocoate, Phenoxyethyl caprylate, Trethyl hexanoin, Propylene glycol isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triiso stearate, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and polypropylene glycol- 15 stearyl ether; (f) fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol; or (g) combinations thereof, for example, the blend of waxes available commercially under the trade name Cutina® (BASF).

[0087] The oil phase of the emulsion preferably comprises 10 to 55 wt% of the emulsion. The oil phase of the emulsion more preferably comprises 12 to 40 wt% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase. Most preferably the oil phase of the emulsion comprises from 15 to 30 wt% of the emulsion of oil phase.

[0088] The oil phase of the emulsion may comprise a combination of oil, wax or butter. Waxes and butters are hydrocarbons that consist of long aliphatic alkyl chains and may include aromatic groups. They are generally lipophilic and typically solid or malleable at room temperature. Melting points vary depending on the alkyl chain, chain length and associations. Silicone waxes are the preferred type of suitable waxes based on alkylmethylsiloxane. Oils are typically lipophilic and liquid at room temperature with lower molecular weights than waxes. Where present wax and / or butter are present at a level of 0.1 to 10wt% of the oil phase of the emulsion. Preferably the oil phase contains wax and / or butter at levels of 0.1 to 8wt% of the oil phase of the emulsion. More preferably the oil phase contains wax and / or butter at levels of 0.1 to 6wt% of the oil phase of the emulsion.

[0089] The composition optionally comprises an emulsifier. The composition preferably comprises from 0.1 to 10wt% of emulsifier by weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.25 to 5wt% of emulsifier by weight of the composition, and most preferably from 0.5 to lwt% of emulsifier by weight of the composition. The emulsifier, if present, helps disperse and suspend the aqueous water phase within the oil phase.

[0090] The composition of the present invention optionally comprises an emulsifier. Suitable emulsifiers include all those suitable for the purpose and known by those skilled in the art for use in skin care products. Where the emulsion is a water-in-oil emulsion, these emulsifiers have an HLB value of or less than 14, more preferably from 2 to 14, and still more preferably from 4 to 14. Where the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, the surfactants may have a HLB value of greater than 8, preferably from 8 to 18, or more preferably from 10 to 16. The emulsifier optionally comprises one or more emulsifier. Among the emulsifiers useful herein are various non-ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acid esters of Ci- C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C1-C30 fatty acids, C1-C30 esters of polyols, C1-C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, and combinations thereof. Nonlimiting preferred examples of these non-silicon-comprising emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG- 100 stearate, and combinations thereof.

[0091] In addition to the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, and optional one or more organic UV filters, that are solid at 25 °C, that are mentioned above compositions in accordance with the invention optionally comprise one or more other UV filters chosen from: i) tris-biphenyl triazine and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and combinations thereof, which are available as aqueous dispersions of nanoparticles; ii) terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and combinations thereof, which are a water-soluble UV filter; iii) hydrophobically coated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, as well inorganic UV filters such as uncoated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and combinations thereof.

[0092] More preferably the additional filters to the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, and optional one or more organic UV filters, that are solid at 25°C, the composition optionally comprises one or more other UV filters chosen from: i) tris-biphenyl triazine and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, and combinations thereof, which are available as aqueous dispersions of nanoparticles; ii) phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and combinations thereof, which are a water-soluble UV filter; iii) hydrophobically coated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, as well inorganic UV filters such as uncoated titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, and combinations thereof.

[0093] The additional filters to the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, and optional one or more organic UV filters, that are solid at 25 °C, when present are present in sufficient amounts to provide an emulsion with an SPF of at least 25, preferably at least 30, more preferably at least 35, most preferably at least 50.

[0094] SPF is a measure of how much UV radiation is required to produce sunburn on skin protected by a composition relative to the amount of UV radiation required to produce sunburn on unprotected skin. As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection increases. SPF was determined herein according to ISO24442019 produced by the International Organization for Standardization. Alternatively, the SPF may be determined using the FDA sunscreen OTC monograph test method that is commonly used in the cosmetics industry.

[0095] Peptides

[0096] The compositions of the present invention may comprise peptides. Preferably said peptides are selected from the group consisting of dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides, and mixtures thereof. By tripeptides, it is meant compound comprising an uninterrupted sequence of three amino acids. By tetrapeptides, it is meant a compound comprising an uninterrupted sequence of four amino acids. By pentapeptide it is meant a compound comprising an uninterrupted sequence of five amino acids.

[0097] All the features described herein (including any accompanying claims and abstract), and / or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined with any of the above aspects or embodiments in any combination, unless stated otherwise with reference to specific combinations, for example, combinations where at least some of such features and / or steps are mutually exclusive.

[0098] Other Optional Ingredients

[0099] Preferred thickeners, viscosity modifying agents and / or gelling agents suitable for use in the claimed compositions, include acrylic acid polymers e.g. available commercially under the trade name Carbopol or Ultrez (Uubrizol) or modified cellulose e.g. hydroxyethylcellulose available commercially under the trade name Natrosol (Hercules) or hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, amine oxides, block polymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide (for example, those available from BASF Wyandotte under the trade name "Pluronic"®), PVM, MA, or a decadiene crosspolymer (available under the trade name Stabilez 60), ethoxylated fatty alcohols, salt (magnesium chloride, sodium chloride), Aristoflex AVC (Clariant), phthalic acid amide, xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate, polyvinyl alcohols, fatty alcohols and alkyl galactomannans available under the trade name N-Hance from Hercules, suitably in an amount of from 0.5wt% to 10wt%.

[0100] Preferred sequestering agents (chelating agents) for inclusion in the claimed composition include Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate, Phytic Acid and its salts (e.g. Sodium Phytate), Gluconic Acid and its salts, and Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic acid and its salts. Most preferably the sequestering agent is Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic acid and / or salts thereof. Such sequestering agents are preferably present in an amount of from 0.005wt% to 0.5wt%.

[0101] Compositions in accordance with the invention preferably include pH adjusting agents. Preferable pH adjusting agents include sodium hydroxide, aminomethyl propanol, triethanolamine. Such pH adjusting agents are preferably present in an amount of from 0.01wt% to 10wt% by weight of the emulsion. Optionally, the emulsion is buffered by the use of buffer systems comprising succinic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and acceptable salts thereof, phosphoric acid, mono-or disodium phosphate and sodium carbonate. Preferably, the compositions have a pH between 3 and 10, and more preferably between 4 and 8.

[0102] Preferably the composition in accordance with the present invention further comprise one or more antioxidant agents selected from a) ascorbic acid its salts, esters, glucosides and glucosamines, b) vitamin E (tocopherol) and its esters.

[0103] Definitions

[0104] All percentages used herein are percentages by weight of the composition unless otherwise specified. All ratios provided herein are weight ratios, unless otherwise specified.

[0105] Examples The present invention is illustrated by the following Examples and Figures which are given by way of example only, and in which:

[0106] Fig. 1 is a microscopic image of the particles forming an emulsion in a composition (Example 5) in accordance with the present invention; and

[0107] Fig 2 is a microscopic image of the particles forming an emulsion in a standard oil in water SPF Day Cream. A series of compositions were prepared that were in accordance with the present invention together with comparative compositions. The SPFs of these compositions were then determined and are shown below in Tables 1 and 3.

[0108] Table 1: In-Vivo SPF Results for compositions in accordance with the invention and comparative compositions

[0109] The Examples / Comparative Examples mentioned above were tested for in-vivo SPF, using the industry standard test methods (ISO24442019*, FDA**). A minimum of two tests were carried out per Example / Comparative Example to determine the SPF of the compositions.

[0110] It can be seen from Table 1 Comparative Examples 1 and 2, that comprise UV fdter combinations at similar levels to Examples 1 to 8, have a measured SPF of approximately only 10. This low SPF is believed to be due poor micelle structure and to a uniform film not being formed on the skin by the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, in combination with a lack of particulates that scatter the UV light such that said UV light is absorbed by the UV fdters.

[0111] Comparative examples 1 and 2 comprise components at the levels indicated in Table 1 above (i.e. with respect to the levels of the UV fdters and Biosaccharide gum-4) and further comprise the other components indicated in Table 2 below, with the exception of the silica dimethyl silylate (colloidal silica treated with silica dimethyl silylate) which is not included in the compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2. The compositions used in Examples 1 and 2 are based on the composition provided in Table 2 below, but additionally comprise an acrylates copolymer, in the form of an aqueous polyacrylate emulsion that is not present in Examples 3 to 8. Such acrylics copolymers are utilised in cosmetics as fdm formers which are known to boost SPF.

[0112] The treated silica used in Examples 1 to 8 is referred to herein as silica dimethyl silylate which comprises a fumed silica that has been treated with dimethyldichlorosilane to provide dimethyl silylate groups on the surface of the fumed silica (such a material is commercially available under the trade name Aerosil® R972). The presence of the dimethyl silylate groups provides a hydrophobic surface to the fumed silica. In Examples 1 to 6 the silica dimethyl silylate was present at a level of 1.0% w / w, and in examples 7 and 8 the level used was 1.5%.

[0113] UV fdters were included in the compositions at the levels indicated in Table 1 above.

[0114] The combination of the acrylates copolymer and the fumed silica provided a boost to the SPF as indicated by Examples 1 and 2, when compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2, wherein the observed SPF was 35.2 and 33.9 respectively. In particular, it can be seen that compositions in accordance with the present invention have a significantly improved SPF by comparing Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 wherein the composition in accordance with the invention (Example 2) has a SPF of 35.1 as compared to Comparative Example 2 that only has a SPF of 10.3, there is a significant boost to SPF when using the same UV filter system following the inclusion of the fumed hydrophobic silica in addition to the carbomer and the taurate copolymer.

[0115] Examples 3 to 5 comprise the composition detailed in Table 2 below with the level of the UV filters being as indicated in Table 1. The SPF of Examples 3 to 5 range from 28.1 to 30.7. It is to be noted that the SPFs provided by Examples 3 to 5 are significantly higher than the SPF provided by Comparative Example 2 which has a similar UV filter system but comprises an additional UV filter in the form of ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate. Homosalate is a weak UV filter and so the 2% difference in the level of this component between Examples 2 to 5 as compared to Comparative Example 2 would not give rise to the observed differences in the SPF of the examples in accordance with the invention.

[0116] Comparison of the SPFs of Examples 3 to 5 to the SPF of Comparative Example 2 clearly demonstrate that the inclusion of the fumed hydrophobic silica has a dramatic impact on the level of SPF provided by the resulting compositions. Addition of the fumed hydrophobic silica was expected to provide an increase in the SPF to ~ 15, an unexpected boost to SPF 30 was instead observed.

[0117] Increasing the level of the homosalate used from 5.0 wt% to 10.0 wt%, see Example 6, resulted in a decrease in the SPF to 20.9 for the resulting composition. The level of SPF provided by Example 6 is still significantly greater than the SPF provided by Comparative Examples 1 and 2. A significantly improved SPF is still observed due the presence of the fumed hydrophobic silica.

[0118] Increasing the level of the fumed hydrophobic silica to 1.5 wt% and adding micronized particles of Copemicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Wax (a particulate SPF booster commonly available under the trade name Sunhancer) 0.5 wt%, see Example 7, and further increasing the level of octocrylene to 8.5 wt% and the homosalate to 6 wt% as in Example 8, resulted in a decrease in the level of the SPF provided (to SPF 24 for both examples) as compared to Examples 3 to 5. However, the level of SPF provided by Examples 7 and 8 was still significantly greater than the SPF provided by Comparative Examples 1 and 2. It would appear that the combination of sunscreen levels (particularly the oil-based content) plus hydrophobic fumed silica at a level of 1.0 wt% in this gel-cream formulation has produced an unexpectedly efficient SPF system. This is thought to be mainly to be down to an unexpected boost provided by the fumed hydrophobic silica.

[0119] Table 2 - The composition of Example 5, with a SPF 30, comprises the components detailed below. wt% is per weight of the composition

[0120] A suitable composition for use in the present invention is provided in Table 2 above, the skilled person will appreciate that this combination of ingredients may be modified according to the use for which the composition is designed to be used, i.e. active ingredients, colourants, etc., may be added as required - the level of water being adjusted accordingly. The composition in Table 2 was used as the base composition for all the examples in accordance with the invention (including example 9) with the indicated changes in the levels of the sunscreens being made and the additional components being present at the levels indicated in the relevant column.

[0121] Table 3: In-Vitro SPF Determinations of Different Types of Surface Treated Fumed

[0122] Silicas in Compositions Fumed silicas that have been treated to provide different surfaces were examined to determine the effect this had on the SPF of the composition detailed in Table 2, and in Examples 3 to 5 , wherein the silica dimethyl silylate used in the original composition was substituted as indicated above in Table 2, the quantity of the fumed silica used was unchanged. Example 14 in Table 3 corresponds to Examples 3 to 5 in Table 1. The SPF of the examples in Table 3 were determined in-vitro using the Boots Star rating test.

[0123] Unexpectedly large increases in the level of SPF observed were provided by compositions comprising fumed silicas that incorporated dimethyl silylate surface groups, Examples 12 and 13, as compared to the use of silica that had not been surface treated, Example 9. Indeed, it seems to be the case that the addition of non-surface treated silicas provides little if any improvement in the SPF.

[0124] The use of hydrophilic silicas that comprised cetyl silylate surface groups provided some improvement in the SPF of the composition to SPF 10.7, see Example 10 as compared to the use of the untreated silica used in Example 9 that had an SPF of 6.4.

[0125] In contrast the use of silica that comprised octyl silylate groups, Example 11, provided a composition wherein the SPF was more than doubled to 13.9, as compared to the use of the untreated silica used in Example 9 that had an SPF of 6.4.

[0126] A marked increase in the SPF was noted when the fumed silica was treated to provide dimethyl silylate groups, a boost in the SPF of the composition to 20.5 (Example 12) and 23.7 (Example 13) was observed as compared to the use of the untreated silica used in Example 9.

[0127] The fumed silicas used in Examples 12 and 13 have the same hydrophobicity due to the presence of the dimethyl silylate groups; these examples differ in that Example 12 comprises a fumed silica which has a larger particle size and increased surface area as compared the silica used in Example 13. It would seem to be the case that remarkable results, in respect of improvements in SPF are observed when silicas having hydrophobic surface are used, particularly when the silica surface comprises dimethyl silylate groups. Additionally, it is noted that the use of silicas with smaller surface areas (in m2 / g) provide further improvements in the SPF as compared to silicas that comprise larger surface areas. As mentioned above the emulsion formed by compositions in accordance with the present invention are believed to be pickering emulsions wherein the emulsion is stabilised by solid ingredients collecting around the oil drops and thus stopping said oil drops from reaccumulating. As a result of this the size of the oil droplets within the emulsion is larger than usual. This increase in the size of the particles forming the emulsion is clearly shown by comparing the microscopic image of an emulsion in accordance with the present invention as shown in Figure 1 (which is an image of the composition of Example 5) with Figure 2 which shows a microscopic image of the particles forming an emulsion in a standard oil in water SPF Day Cream.

[0128] Method of Manufacture of Example 5

[0129] 1. In a main vessel add water and Tetrasodium EDTA, stir until dissolved.

[0130] 2. Homogenise in Carbomer using a homogeniser at 3000rpm for 10 minutes.

[0131] 3. Stir in Glycerin and Butylene glycol. Heat the water phase to 75-80°C.

[0132] 4. In a separate vessel weigh out the oil phase. Add Octocrylene, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and Caprylyl methicone. Heat to 75-80°C until all the solids are dissolved.

[0133] 5. To the oil phase add Ammonium acryloyldimcthyltauratc / VP copolymer with stirring for 3 minutes.

[0134] 6. Add the oil phase to the water phase (main vessel). Homogenise at 3500rpm for 10 minutes until smooth and lump free.

[0135] 7. Homogenise Silica into the main vessel at 3500 rpm for 10 minutes. Cool below 30°C.

[0136] 8. Stir in Fragrance

[0137] 9. Add Silica dimethyl silylate and homogenise at 5000rpm for 5 minutes.

[0138] 10. Stir in Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol & ethylhexylglycerin and Polysilicone-11 & Dimethicone.

[0139] 11. Adjust pH to specification with 50 wt% aqueous Potassium hydroxide solution (the preferred pH is 5.5 to 6.0 at 23°C).

[0140] All the features described herein (including any accompanying claims and abstract), and / or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined with any of the above aspects or embodiments in any combination, unless stated otherwise with reference to specific combinations, for example, combinations where at least some of such features and / or steps are mutually exclusive. Translucency Testing

[0141] The translucency of the Example 5 was determined using a LUMiSizer Dispersion Analyser 611, a microprocessor controlled analytical photocentrifuge.

[0142] This instrument is normally used to measure emulsion particle size and velocity but can also be used to determine the transmission of samples. A LUM sample cell is filled with a sample and transmission of light through the sample can then be measured. The measurement was read at 120mm from the start of the sample fill line on the cuvette, without the use of the centrifuge.

[0143] The translucency of a number of standard cosmetic samples that are known to have different opacities were measured, comprising a standard day cream with a SPF 15, a gel, a gel cream and Example 5 ( a composition in accordance with the present invention that has a SPF of 30 and is in the form of a gel). The results obtained are provided below:

[0144] A reading of a 100% transmission means that all the light is passing through the sample and a reading of 0% means no light is passing through. In the present case the transmission of Example 5 was found to be similar to that of a gel cream which is less opaque than a standard day cream but not as opaque as a clear gel.

[0145] Boots Star Rating Test

[0146] The Boots in-vitro test method (known as the Boots Star Rating Test), is an industry standard test that is used test to the SPF provided by a product. The product to be tested is uniformly spread on 3 PolyMethylMethAcrylate (PMMA) plates using an application rate of 1.3mg / cm2. The transmittance of a UV light through the plates is then detected in the UVA-B region to quantify the UVA and B amounts being ‘blocked’ by the product and compared to the transmittance of a PMMA plate that is uncoated. Details of this test have been publicly published and are available directly from Boots.

[0147] Further examples of compositions in accordance with the present invention are provided below together with their methods of manufacture. Second Composition with SPF 30 wt% is per weight of the composition

[0148] Method of manufacture

[0149] 1. In the main vessel add water and Tetrasodium EDTA, stir until dissolved. 2. Homogenise in Carbomer using a homogeniser at 3000rpm for 10 minutes.

[0150] 3. Stir in Glycerin and Butylene glycol. Heat the water phase to 75-80°C.

[0151] 4. In a separate vessel weigh out the oil phase. Add Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl triazone, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and Caprylyl methicone. Heat to 75-80°C until all the solids are dissolved.

[0152] 5. To the oil phase add Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer with stirring for 3 minutes.

[0153] 6. Add the oil phase to the water phase (main vessel). Homogenise at 3500rpm for 10 minutes until smooth and lump free. 7. Homogenise Silica into the main vessel at 3500 rpm for 10 minutes. Cool below 30°C.

[0154] 8. Stir in Fragrance

[0155] 9. Add Silica dimethyl silylate and homogenise at 5000rpm for 5 minutes. 10. Stir in Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol & ethylhexylglycerin, Water & Biosaccharide gum-1 and Polysilicone-11 & Dimethicone.

[0156] 11. Adjust pH to specification with 50 wt% aqueous Potassium hydroxide solution (the preferred pH is 5.5 to 6.0 at 23°C). Composition with SPF 50 wt% is per weight of the composition

[0157] Method of manufacture

[0158] 1. In the main vessel add water and Tetrasodium EDTA, stir until dissolved.

[0159] 2. Homogenise in Carbomer using a homogeniser at 3000rpm for 10 minutes. 3. Stir in Glycerin and Butylene glycol. Heat the water phase to 75-80°C.

[0160] 4. In a separate vessel weigh out the oil phase. Add Octocrylene, Homosalate, Bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and Caprylyl methicone. Heat to 75-80°C until all the solids are dissolved. 5. To the oil phase add Ammonium acryloyldimcthyltaiiratc / VP copolymer with stirring for 3 minutes.

[0161] 6. Add the oil phase to the water phase (main vessel). Homogenise at 3500rpm for 10 minutes until smooth and lump free. 7. Homogenise Silica into the main vessel at 3500 rpm for 10 minutes. Cool below 30°C.

[0162] 8. Stir in Fragrance

[0163] 9. Add Silica dimethyl silylate and homogenise at 5000rpm for 5 minutes.

[0164] 10. Stir in Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol & ethylhexylglycerin and Polysilicone-11 & Dimethicone. 11. Adjust pH to specification with 50 wt% aqueous Potassium hydroxide solution (the preferred pH is 5.5 to 6.0 at 23°C).

[0165] Composition with SPF 40 wt% is per weight of the composition

[0166] Method of manufacture 1. In the main vessel add water and Tetrasodium EDTA, stir until dissolved.

[0167] 2. Homogenise in Carbomer using an homogeniser at 3000rpm for 10 minutes.

[0168] 3. Stir in Glycerin and Butylene glycol. Heat the water phase to 75-80°C. 4. In a separate vessel weigh out the oil phase. Add Octocrylene, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and Caprylyl methicone. Heat to 75-80°C until all the solids are dissolved.

[0169] 5. To the oil phase add Ammonium acryloyldimcthyltauratc / VP copolymer with stirring for 3 minutes.

[0170] 6. Add the oil phase to the water phase (main vessel). Homogenise at 3500rpm for 10 minutes until smooth and lump free.

[0171] 7. Homogenise Silica into the main vessel at 3500 rpm for 10 minutes. Cool below 30°C.

[0172] 8. Stir in Fragrance 9. Add Silica dimethyl silylate and homogenise at 5000rpm for 5 minutes.

[0173] 10. Stir in Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol & ethylhexylglycerin and Polysilicone-11 & Dimethicone.

[0174] 11. Adjust pH to specification with 50 wt% aqueous Potassium hydroxide solution (the preferred pH is 5.5 to 6.0 at 23°C). Composition with SPF 15 wt% is per weight of the composition

[0175] Method of manufacture 1. In the main vessel add water and Tetrasodium EDTA, stir until dissolved.

[0176] 2. Homogenise in Carbomer using a homogeniser at 3000rpm for 10 minutes.

[0177] 3. Stir in Glycerin and Butylene glycol. Heat the water phase to 75-80°C.

[0178] 4. In a separate vessel weigh out the oil phase. Add Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl triazone, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and Caprylyl methicone. Heat to 75-80°C until all the solids are dissolved.

[0179] 5. To the oil phase add Ammonium acryloyldimcthyltauratc / VP copolymer with stirring for 3 minutes.

[0180] 6. Add the oil phase to the water phase (main vessel). Homogenise at 3500rpm for 10 minutes until smooth and lump free.

[0181] 7. Homogenise Silica into the main vessel at 3500 rpm for 10 minutes. Cool below 30°C.

[0182] 8. Stir in Fragrance

[0183] 9. Add Silica dimethyl silylate and homogenise at 5000rpm for 5 minutes.

[0184] 10. Stir in Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl glycol & ethylhexylglycerin and Polysilicone-11 & Dimethicone.

[0185] 11. Adjust pH to specification with 50 wt% aqueous Potassium hydroxide solution (the preferred pH is 5.5 to 6.0 at 23°C).

[0186] Definitions

[0187] All percentages provided herein are percentages by weight (wt%) of the composition unless otherwise specified, i.e. the wt% of the ingredient is give as a wt% of the total weight (100%) of the composition. All ratios provided herein are weight ratios (wt%:wt%), unless otherwise specified.

[0188] A suitable acrylates copolymer, in the form of an aqueous polyacrylate emulsion, as used in Examples 1 and 2, is commercially available as Epitex™ 66 from Dow, this material has a solids content (of polyacrylate) of 43.0 to 46%.

[0189] A suitable carbomer (cross-linked homopolymer of polyacrylic acid) for use in the present invention is commercially available under the trade name Carbopol® Utrez 30 from Lubrizol; this is the carbomer used in the above examples in accordance with the invention.

[0190] The silica dimethyl silylate used in the above compositions of Examples 1 to 8 and 13 comprises a hydrophobic fumed silica wherein the fumed silica has been after treated with DDS (dichlorodimethylsilane), i.e. a silica comprising surface silica dimethyl silylate groups. Such a treated fumed silica, as used herein, is available under the trade name Aerosil® R972 from Evonik and is commonly used in cosmetics to thicken liquid systems.

[0191] The fumed silica comprising an untreated surface, as used in Example 9, is available from Evonik under the trade Aerosil® 200.

[0192] Hydrophilic fumed silicas that comprise cetyl silylate (hexadecyl silylate) surface groups (i.e. a silica comprising surface silica hexadecyl silylate groups) as used in the Example 10 are available under the trade name Aerosil® R816 from Evonik.

[0193] A suitable hydrophilic fumed silica comprising octyl silylate (caprylyl silylate) surface groups (i.e. a silica comprising surface silica octyl silylate groups), as used in Example 11 is available from Evonik under the trade name Aerosil® R805.

[0194] Fumed silicas surface treated with silica dimethyl silane to provide hydrophilic dimethyl silylate groups, as used in Examples 11 and 12, are also available from Evonik under the trade names Aerosil® R974 and Aerosil® R972 respectively. The Aerosil® R974 used in Example 12 has a surface area of 200 m2 / g and the Aerosil® R972 used in Example 13 has a surface area of 90-130 m2 / g.

[0195] A suitable ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer for use in the present invention, and as used herein, is available from Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex® AVC, and is commonly used as a gelling agent.

[0196] A Suitable polyacrylamide for use in the present invention is available from Seppic under the trade name Sepigel 305.

[0197] Micronized particles of Copemicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Wax as mentioned above are sold commercially by Lubrizol under the trade name Sunhancer™. Sunhancer comprises copernica cerifera (carnauba) wax 93-97 wt% and Orzya Sativa (Rice) Bran wax 3-7 wt%.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition in the form of a multiphase system which comprises:(i) a hydrophobic fumed silica;(ii) one or more organic UV filters; iii) less than 1 wt% of emulsifier(s); and(iv) from 0.1 to 3 wt% of a mixture of a first polymer and a second polymer wherein; the first polymer comprises one or more polymers selected from the group comprising polyacrylic acid, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide or combinations thereof; and, the second polymer comprises one or more taurate based polymers and / or salts of said taurate polymers.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the multiphase system comprises a water in oil emulsion, an oil in water emulsion, a water in oil in water emulsion, or an oil in water in oil emulsion.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein the hydrophobic fumed silica comprises hydrophobic surface groups that are preferably in the form of organosilane groups.

4. A composition as claimed in claim 3 wherein the hydrophobic fumed silica is chosen from a group comprising silica dimethicone silylate, silica caprylyl silylate, silica cetyl silylate, silica dimethyl silylate, and combinations thereof.

5. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 3 or 4 wherein the hydrophobic fumed silica is chosen from a group comprising silica dimethyl silylate silica caprylyl silylate, and combinations thereof.

6. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the composition comprises one or more organic UV filters chosen from a first group comprising UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, and optionally one or more UV filters chosen from a second group that are solid at 25 °C.

7. A composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 6 wherein the one or more organic UV filters that are liquid at 25°C, are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting of, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysilicone-15, homosalate (homomenthyl salicylate), menthyl anthranilate and combinations thereof; and the optional one or more organic UV filters that are solid at 25 °C are chosen from the group comprising, or consisting, of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, drometrizole Trisiloxane, methylbenzylidene camphor, ethylhexyl triazone, methoxypropylamino cyclohexenylidene ethoxyethylcyanoacetate and combinations thereof.

8. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the first polymer comprises or consists polyacrylic acid, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide or combinations thereof.

9. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the second polymer comprises or consists of one or more taurate copolymer(s) and / or taurate crosspolymer(s) and / or salts of said taurate copolymer(s) and cross polymer(s).

10. A composition as claimed in claim 9 wherein the second polymer comprises or consists of one or more taurate copolymer(s) and / or taurate crosspolymer(s) and / or salts of said taurate copolymer(s) and cross polymer(s) that are chosen from the group comprising or consisting of acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylic acid copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / carboxyethyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl formamide copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate crosspolymer, HEA / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-20 methacrylatecopolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacryloyldimethyltaurate polyoxymethylene melamine, sodium acrylate / acryloyldimethyltaurate / dimethylacrylamide crosspolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / acrylamide copolymer, sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / PEG-8 diacrylate crosspolymer, sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate / acrylamide / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone crosspolymer, SodiumPolyacryloyldimethyltaurate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) AmmoniumAcryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (and) Trilaureth-4 Phosphate (and) Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiisostearate, and combinations thereof.1 1. A composition as claimed in claim 9 wherein the second polymer comprises or consists of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.

12. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim wherein the first polymer comprises or consists of a cross-linked homopolymer of polyacrylic acid and the second polymer comprises or consists of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.

13. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 as a non- therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve the condition of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or imperfections and / or skin firmness and elasticity.

14. A cosmetic method for improving the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or reduce imperfections and / or improve skin firmness and elasticity, comprising topically administering the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

15. A method of manufacturing a composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 12 comprising the steps of: i) water and EDTA are mixed at 20°C until the EDTA is dissolved, the first polymer is added and an homogeniser is used to provide a homogeneous first mixture;ii) Glycerin and Butylene Glycol are added and the mixture is then heated to a temperature of 75 to 85 °C; iii) the oil soluble UV filters and the caprylyl methicone are separately heated, with mixing, to 75 to 85 °C, and the second polymer is then added to provide a homogenised second mixture; iv) the oil soluble (second) mixture is added to the water soluble (first) mixture whilst maintaining the temperature at 75 to 85 °C and mixing, to provide a homogenised combined (third) mixture; v) silica, if required, is added to the combined (third) mixture with stirring to give a homogenised mixture; vi) the mixture is cooled to below 30°C; vii) the hydrophobic silica and optional ingredients such, perfumes and emollients, are then added to the combined (third) mixture; and, viii) the pH of the mixture is determined and adjusted as required prior to cooling the composition.

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