Polyaspartic acid (SALTS) in cosmetic products for treating hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for repairing hair damage and for strengthening inner hair structure using a specific polyaminoacid(salts)-containing cosmetic composition.

Description

[0001] POLYASPARAGIC ACID (SALTS) IN COSMETIC HAIR TREATMENT PRODUCTS

[0002] The invention relates to a method for repairing hair damage and strengthening the inner hair structure using a cosmetic composition comprising specific polyamino acid (salts).

[0003] It is well known that chemical treatments of human hair for fashion reasons often lead to damage to the hair structure. Examples of chemical treatments that can cause more or less severe damage include perms, repeated cold waves, bleaching and lightening processes, and coloring with oxidation dyes, especially when lightening is used simultaneously. Hair damage can also be caused by sun exposure and washing. All of these factors can induce damage at various levels and alter the hair structure, leading to weaker hair. Such damage manifests itself in a loss of the hair's natural shine, an unattractive, dull appearance, and, in the case of more severe damage, in split ends, hair breakage, or the appearance of small knots in the hair.

[0004] Attempts have already been made to improve the structure of hair damaged in this way through various treatments, although no satisfactory solution has yet been found. Conventional or commercially available hair care products can repair the surface and, to some extent, the hair fibers, thereby achieving excellent care effects. However, these care benefits are often minimal, temporary, and short-lasting, as they can be washed out again. Frequent care treatment is therefore necessary, especially for severely damaged hair fibers, which can sometimes result in an undesirable built-up effect due to overconditioning, which in turn leads to heavy and / or greasy hair.

[0005] It would be desirable to prevent such internal structural hair damage or to repair the hair steadily day after day from the moment the hair grows out of the scalp, so that hair breakage is delayed, alleviated or avoided.

[0006] Previous attempts to provide products or processes that contribute to hair strengthening have not always been entirely satisfactory, as their use or application can be limited, for example, due to formulation difficulties (such as stability, solubility, pH compatibility). Furthermore, existing technologies are mostly based on synthetically derived ingredients, which are increasingly less accepted by consumers due to sustainability concerns. Providing a hair treatment process that repairs internal hair damage and strengthens the hair's internal structure is therefore a relevant goal in the field of hair cosmetics. Ideally, the hair treatment process should use more sustainable compositions and active ingredients.

[0007] This object was achieved by a method according to claim 1, in which a cosmetic composition is applied to the hair, optionally massaged in and rinsed out again after an exposure time of 5 seconds to 60 minutes, wherein the cosmetic composition contains one or more compounds of the following formula (i), where the sum of m+n is 2 to 100

[0008] M stands for a hydrogen, metal or ammonium cation.

[0009] The method according to the invention has the advantage that compounds according to formula (i) serve as bonding agent(s) in the cosmetic compositions. In contrast to other known hair repair agents, these are highly effective, non-toxic, and biodegradable.

[0010] Furthermore, the addition of one or more compounds according to formula (i) imparts exceptionally good care and repair properties to cosmetic compositions. In particular, hair treated according to a method defined herein exhibits a stronger internal structure, which is reflected in a higher denaturation temperature, increased tensile strength, and reduced swelling in water. This applies in particular to hair treatment methods according to the invention applied to oxidatively damaged hair.

[0011] The denaturation temperature reflects the internal structural strength of the cortex proteins. When used in the cosmetic compositions of the inventive method, compounds according to formula (i) ensure permanent repair by penetrating deep into the hair fibers and creating new microbonds there through chemical cross-linking. The hair's natural keratin is encased in the fibers, permanently repairing the hair.

[0012] The process defined herein leads to a significant hair repair effect, which can be achieved with an active ingredient of biotechnological origin. The present invention also provides the use of compounds according to formula (i) in cosmetic compositions for repairing hair damage and strengthening the internal hair structure.

[0013] The present invention also provides a cosmetic composition for repairing hair damage and strengthening the internal hair structure, which comprises specific amounts of compounds according to formula (i) and at least one other hair fiber repair agent.

[0014] The invention summarized above will now be presented in more detail.

[0015] Unless otherwise stated, all amounts expressed in % are % by weight and are expressed relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0016] Compounds according to formula (i) which are particularly suitable for use in the process according to the invention are preferably understood to mean those in which the sum m+n is 2 to 50 and which have an average molecular weight in the range from 500 to 10,000 g / mol, more preferably 500 to 7,500 g / mol and particularly preferably 1,000 to 7,500 g / mol.

[0017] Due to the relatively low average molecular weight of compounds according to formula (i) in the previously defined range, they are better able to penetrate the hair fibers and form bonds with keratin in the cortex. This can restore the inner strength of chemically treated and / or damaged hair. This has been demonstrated by corresponding measurements.

[0018] Also preferred are compounds of formula (i) wherein M represents a hydrogen or an alkali metal cation, such as a sodium or potassium cation.

[0019] Most preferably, in formula (i), the sum of m+n is from 2 to 50 and M is an H, Na or K cation.

[0020] Compounds of formula (i) are particularly preferably polyaspartic acid and / or sodium salts of polyaspartic acid. They preferably have the previously defined average molecular weights.

[0021] Suitable commercial products which can be used in processes according to the invention are known and available, for example under the name Baypure® DS 100 from Lanxess.

[0022] One or more compounds according to formula (i) can be used in the cosmetic compositions used in the process according to the invention, preferably in proportions of 0.01 to 5 wt.% (based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition). More preferred are proportions of 0.05 to 4 wt.%, and in particular of 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

[0023] In a particularly preferred embodiment, polyaspartic acid and / or a sodium salt of polyaspartic acid is used in the above-mentioned amounts in the cosmetic compositions of the process according to the invention.

[0024] There are no fundamental restrictions regarding the type of cosmetic compositions in which compounds according to formula (i) can be employed for use in the process according to the invention. Suitable packaging forms include, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, and PIT emulsions (emulsions based on the theory of phase inversion, also known as PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, coarse, unstable, single- or multi-phase shake mixtures, gels, sprays, aerosols, foam aerosols, and also solid forms such as powders, granules, or bars.

[0025] Cosmetic compositions suitable for use in the process according to the invention preferably contain compounds according to formula (i) in a cosmetic carrier.

[0026] An aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic base can be used as a cosmetic carrier for the cosmetic compositions.

[0027] Lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerin are used as the alcoholic component. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol can be present in the aqueous-alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 90:1. Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures containing up to 50% by weight, especially up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the alcohol / water mixture, can be preferred bases.

[0028] The pH of the cosmetic compositions can, in principle, be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values ​​of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred.

[0029] To adjust this pH, virtually any acid or base suitable for cosmetic purposes can be used. Typically, food acids are used. Food acids are those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Examples of food acids include acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid, and gluconic acid. For the purposes of the invention, the use of citric acid and / or lactic acid is particularly preferred.

[0030] Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, and N,N,N',N'-tetrakis-(2-hydroxypropyl)ethylenediamine. Cosmetic compositions in which compounds according to formula (i) can be employed for use in the process according to the invention are present, for example, in solid or liquid embodiments, such as cosmetic cleansing compositions for the scalp and / or hair, such as cleansing powders or granules, soap bars, cleansing wipes, porous bodies (solid cleansing foams), liquid hair shampoos, 2-in-1 hair care shampoos, anti-dandruff shampoos, hair coloring shampoos, hair cleansing rinses, or combinations thereof, cosmetic care compositions (conditioners) for the scalp and / or hair, such as hair rinses, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair serums, ethanolic or aqueous tinctures, etc.or combinations thereof, which may be present as both leave-on and rinse-off compositions, cosmetic composition for the temporary or permanent shaping or fixing of hair, such as hairsprays, permanent wave fixing solutions, hair setting lotions, hair setting products, hair styling preparations, blow-dry lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof, temporary or permanent hair dyes.

[0031] Particularly preferred within the meaning of the present invention are processes in which cosmetic rinse-off or leave-on compositions comprising compounds according to formula (i) are used for the care of hair and scalp.

[0032] Within this embodiment, this preferably includes liquid hair care shampoos or hair conditioning agents, such as hair rinses, hair treatments, essences, lotions, serums, tonics, hair tip fluids, which may be in liquid form or as a powder solid, as well as sprays, gels or waxes.

[0033] Processes according to the invention, in which compounds of formula (i) are used in cosmetic compositions that remain on the hair (leave-on preparations), have proven particularly effective and can therefore represent preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. For the purposes of the present invention, "leave-on" refers to preparations that are not rinsed off the scalp or out of the hair with water or an aqueous solution after a period of a few seconds to one hour during the treatment. Rather, the preparations remain on the scalp or hair until the next wash.

[0034] A preferred embodiment comprises methods according to the invention in which compounds according to formula (i) are used in hair conditioners. These preparations can be rinsed out with water or an at least predominantly water-containing agent after a certain contact time; however, it may be preferred if the hair conditioners are left on the hair, as explained above.

[0035] A further preferred embodiment comprises processes according to the invention in which compounds according to formula (i) are used in cleansing compositions for the scalp and hair

[0036] - like a shampoo - can be used.

[0037] The respective cosmetic compositions preferably contain other ingredients depending on the intended use.

[0038] The cosmetic compositions suitable for use in the method according to the invention may contain surfactant(s). Anionic surfactants have proven particularly effective in cleansing compositions (usually rinse-off compositions), while cationic surfactants are frequently used ingredients in conditioning compositions (rinse-off or leave-on compositions). Amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers are particularly advantageously used in both cleansing and care compositions due to their advantageous properties.

[0039] In a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention or the use according to the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic composition

[0040] - based on its total weight - contains 0.1 to 25 wt.% of at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, non-ionic or cationic surfactant or emulsifier.

[0041] A particularly preferred embodiment comprises methods according to the invention or uses according to the invention in which cosmetic compositions are used which are in a cosmetic carrier (based on their total weight)

[0042] 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one previously defined compound according to formula (i) and

[0043] Contain 0.1 - 25 wt.% of at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, non-ionic surfactant or mixtures thereof.

[0044] Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions formulated as a cleansing composition contain > 50% of at least one anionic surfactant (based on the total surfactant content).

[0045] All anionic surface-active substances suitable for cosmetic use on the human or animal body are suitable as anionic surfactants and emulsifiers. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups.

[0046] Particularly suitable anionic surfactant types that can be used in cosmetic compositions include, for example: linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps),

[0047] Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO-(CH2-CH2O) X-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear or e, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, and their physiologically acceptable salts,

[0048] Acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (sarcosinate surfactants), acyltaurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (taurate surfactants),

[0049] Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (isethionate surfactants), acyl glutamates with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (glutamate surfactants), sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups (sulfosuccinate surfactants),

[0050] Alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 C atoms (alpha-olefinsulfonate surfactants),

[0051] Alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts of the formula R-(OCH2CH2)nO-SO3X, in which R is preferably a straight-chain or e, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms, x is the number 0 or 1 to 12 and X is an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion,

[0052] Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, and / or

[0053] Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula in the R 1 preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 for hydrogen, a residue (CH2CH20) n R 1 or X, n for numbers from 0 to 10 and X for hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or the group -NR 3 R 4 R5 R 6 stands, with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another standing for a Ci to C4 hydrocarbon residue.

[0054] Very particular preference is given to alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts, (salts of) ether carboxylic acids, sarcosinates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates and / or alpha-olefin sulfonates, in particular alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts.

[0055] Particularly preferred are alkyl (ether) sulfates of the general formula R-(OCH2CH2)n-OSO3X, in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 8 to 24 C atoms, n is the number 0 or 1 to 12, and X is an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion.

[0056] Preferably, cosmetic compositions formulated as cleaning compositions contain, in addition to anionic surfactants, 0-15%, particularly preferably 0.25-12.5% ​​and in particular 0.5-10% of at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and / or 0-15%, particularly preferably 0.25-12.5% ​​and in particular 0.5-10% of at least one non-ionic surfactant (in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition).

[0057] Suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are those that carry both a cationic and an anionic charge in the molecule. Amphoteric surfactants preferably have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO- or -SO5- group, in addition to a preferably C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, in the molecule. They are also capable of forming internal salts. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.Particularly preferred are the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants known under the INCI names Cocamidopropyl Betaine Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Cocoampho(di)acetate and / or Lauroapho(di)acetate.

[0058] Suitable non-ionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers can be selected from amine oxides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, fatty acid alkanolamides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamide MEA and Coamide DEA, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols such as the commercially available product Montanov®68, sterols such as zoosterols and phytosterols, phospholipids, alkyl (oligo) glycosides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside, alkoxylated esters such as the compounds known under the INCI names PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor, polyglycerol esters and / or their salts.

[0059] Preferably, cosmetic compositions formulated as care compositions (hair conditioners) contain at least one cationic surfactant.

[0060] Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats of amidoamines, or mixtures thereof can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as in cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.

[0061] Suitable amidoamines include, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine or mixtures thereof.

[0062] Suitable esterquats include, for example, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyldimonium chloride, behenoyl PG trimonium chloride, bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl)dimonium methosulfate or mixtures thereof.

[0063] Other preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87 and / or Quaternium-91.

[0064] Very particularly preferably, cosmetic compositions formulated as care compositions (hair conditioners) contain cationic surfactants from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or amidoamines.

[0065] A particularly preferred embodiment comprises methods according to the invention or uses according to the invention in which cosmetic compositions are used which are in a cosmetic carrier (based on their total weight)

[0066] 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one previously defined compound according to formula (i) and 0.05 to 10 wt.% of at least one cationic surfactant.

[0067] To enhance the care properties, it may further be advantageous if a cosmetic composition is used in the process according to the invention which, in addition to compounds according to formula (i), contains at least one hair care active ingredient in a weight proportion of 0-50% by weight of the total weight of the respective composition. Amounts used are more preferred, ranging from 0.01-30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05-25% by weight, and especially from 0.01-20% by weight.

[0068] The at least one hair care active ingredient can preferably be selected from a) oils b) protein hydrolysates c) proteolipids d) vitamins e) cationic polymers f) peptides g) or mixtures thereof.

[0069] Adding one or more hair care substances a) - f) to the cosmetic compositions offers the advantage that the method according to the invention, in addition to repairing damaged hair fibers and strengthening the inner hair structure, can also contribute to increasing the care of the outer hair fibers, which is visually and haptically perceptible. Care of the outer hair fibers is understood, in particular, to mean increased smoothness, shine, suppleness, and volume. Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that the hair treatment method according to the invention, using a shampoo containing at least one previously defined compound according to formula (i) and optionally one or more active ingredients a) - f), leads to a significant reduction in combing force of the hair fibers.

[0070] Suitable oils (a) are understood to mean natural, mineral or synthetic oils, fats, waxes or mixtures thereof.

[0071] The group of suitable natural (vegetable) oils typically includes triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, meadowfoam oil, safflower oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, tamanu oil, perilla oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, murumuru butter, and / or shea butter. Mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils, and synthetic hydrocarbons are particularly used.An example of a suitable hydrocarbon is the commercially available 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) or mixtures of medium-chain alkanes (such as Cetiol® Ultimate).

[0072] A dialkyl ether can also serve as a suitable oil component. Suitable dialkyl ethers include, in particular, di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether, and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, as well as di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isopentyl n-octyl ether, and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether. Particularly preferred is the di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol® OE.

[0073] Silicone compounds are preferred synthetic oils. Silicones exhibit excellent conditioning properties on keratin fibers, especially on hair. In particular, they improve the combability of hair both wet and dry and, in many cases, have a positive effect on the hair's grip and softness. Suitable silicones can be selected from: (i) polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, which may be volatile or non-volatile, straight-chain or cyclic, branched or unbranched;

[0074] (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per)fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

[0075] (iii) linear polysiloxane(A)-polyoxyalkylene(B) block copolymers of type (AB) n with n > 3;

[0076] (iv) grafted silicone polymers with a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers not containing silicone, to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at at least one chain end;

[0077] (v) grafted silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone to which non-silicone-containing organic monomers have been grafted, comprising a polysiloxane main chain to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain and optionally at at least one of its ends;

[0078] (vi) or mixtures thereof.

[0079] Fats include fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form or liquid in aqueous dispersion.

[0080] The fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with 6 - 30 carbon atoms, preferably with 10 - 22 carbon atoms.

[0081] Fatty alcohols that can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C10-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22 carbon atoms.

[0082] Natural or synthetic waxes that can be used include solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, hardened waxes such as hydrogenated castor oil, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, and microwaxes made from PE or PP. Other suitable fatty substances include ester oils, which are esters of C2-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. Examples of particularly suitable ester oils are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18-alkyl esters (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol® 868), cetyl palmitate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM),Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V) dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols such as glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC) ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated mono-, di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or ene fatty acids with glycerin, such as Monomuls® 90-018, Monomuls® 90-L12, Cetiol® HE or Cutina® MD.,

[0083] The weight proportion of oils, fats and / or waxes in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions may preferably be 0 to 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 25 wt.% and in particular 0.05 to 15 wt.%.

[0084] For the purposes of the present invention, protein hydrolysates b) are degradation products of proteins produced by acidic, basic, or enzymatic reactions. Due to the production process, protein hydrolysates exhibit a molecular weight distribution.

[0085] Suitable protein hydrolysates b) can be of plant, animal, marine or synthetic origin.

[0086] Preferred protein hydrolysates of plant origin can be selected from the group consisting of soy, almond, pea, moringa, potato, and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda), and Puricare® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

[0087] Preferred protein hydrolysates of animal origin can be selected from the group consisting of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex), ProSina® (Croda), and Kerasol® (Croda). Preferred protein hydrolysates of marine origin can be selected from the group consisting of collagen hydrolysates from fish or algae, protein hydrolysates from mussels, and pearl hydrolysates. Examples of pearl extracts are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.

[0088] Particularly preferred protein hydrolysates b) are

[0089] Hydrolyzed keratin,

[0090] Hydrolyzed collagen,

[0091] Hydrolyzed silk protein,

[0092] Hydrolyzed cashmere protein,

[0093] Hydrolyzed wheat protein,

[0094] Hydrolyzed soy protein,

[0095] Hydrolyzed pea protein,

[0096] Hydrolyzed hemp seed protein,

[0097] Hydrolyzed cottonseed protein, hydrolyzed rice protein.

[0098] Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates within the meaning of the present invention are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates b), wherein the underlying protein hydrolysate originates from the same sources as previously explained.

[0099] The weight proportion of protein hydrolysates b) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions may preferably be 0 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 3 wt.%.

[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, proteolipids c) are compounds of the general

[0101] To understand formulas (II) or (III),

[0102] R'-XR" Formula (II)

[0103] [R'-XR"] + Z- Formula (III) where

[0104] R' represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated functional hydrocarbon group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms (including mixtures of such R' groups as found, for example, in natural products such as coconut oil).

[0105] R" represents a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolysate,

[0106] Z represents a physiologically acceptable anion

[0107] - X -C(O)O- or -N + (R'"2)-R IV - or -N(R III )R IV - or -C(O)-N(R V )R VI represents,

[0108] R IH -(CH2)X-CH3, where x is 0-22, and R IV-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2- or -(CH2)x-, optionally substituted with one or more -OH groups, where x = 0-22;

[0109] R v and R VI independently represent -H or -(CH2)x-CH3, where x = 0-22; with the proviso that R" represents keratin or a keratin hydrolysate when X represents -C(O)O-.

[0110] If X is -C(O)O- or -N(R'")R IV - or -C(O)-N(R V )R VI the compound is uncharged and formula (II) applies. If X -N + (R III 2)-R IV -, i.e., the nitrogen is quaternized, a counterion is present and formula (III) applies. The counterion is any suitable physiologically acceptable anion, such as a halide. A preferred cation is chloride.

[0111] More appropriately, the or each proteolipid has the formula (IVA): where

[0112] R', R 1", R" and Z are as previously defined, m = 1 to 10, and

[0113] Y stands for -H or -OH.

[0114] R" may be a protein. Alternatively, R" may be a peptide. R" may also be a protein hydrolysate. Preferably, R" is a protein hydrolysate. Such a protein hydrolysate may be keratin-based, i.e., a keratin hydrolysate. Alternatively, R" may be a plant-based hydrolysate.

[0115] Preferred examples of proteolipids c) include:

[0116] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl keratin,

[0117] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl collagen,

[0118] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl silk protein,

[0119] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl cashmere protein,

[0120] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl rice protein,

[0121] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl wheat protein,

[0122] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl soy protein,

[0123] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl pea protein,

[0124] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl cottonseed protein,

[0125] Hydrolyzed steardimonium hydroxypropyl hemp seed protein,

[0126] Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl keratin,

[0127] Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl collagen,

[0128] Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl silk protein, Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl cashmere protein,

[0129] Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl rice protein, Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl soy protein, Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl wheat protein, Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl pea protein, Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl cottonseed protein, Hydrolyzed cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hempseed protein,

[0130] The weight proportion of proteolipids c) in the total weight of the cosmetic compositions may preferably be 0 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.01 to 3 wt.%.

[0131] Suitable vitamins d) are understood to mean vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives from groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The group of substances referred to as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Examples of suitable vitamin A components include vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters such as palmitate and acetate. The vitamin A component can preferably be contained in cosmetic compositions in amounts of 0.005-1% by weight, based on the total composition. The vitamin B group or vitamin B complex includes, among others, o vitamin B1 (thiamine) o vitamin B2 (riboflavin) o vitamin B3. The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often listed under this name.Nicotinamide is preferred and can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. o Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within this group, panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used. Useful panthenol derivatives are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives. The aforementioned compounds of the vitamin B5 type can be present in the cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1-2% by weight are particularly preferred. o Vitamin B5 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) o Vitamin B7 - cf. Vitamin H. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid).Vitamin C can be used in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, based on the total composition. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, glucosides, or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols can also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, and succinate, can be present in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.005-1 wt.%, based on the total composition. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually refers to essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H.The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is referred to as vitamin H, but the common name biotin has since become established. Biotin can be contained in cosmetic compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

[0132] The cosmetic compositions can particularly preferably contain vitamins, provitamins, and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E, and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, and vitamin E acetate are particularly preferred and can be added to the cosmetic compositions both individually and in combination in the aforementioned amounts.

[0133] Suitable cationic polymers e) include, for example, cationic polysaccharide polymers.

[0134] Suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers can be selected from cationic cellulose compounds and / or from cationic guar derivatives.

[0135] Suitable cationic cellulose compounds carry more than one permanent cationic charge in at least one side chain. Quaternized cellulose polymers derived from hydroxy(C2-C4)alkylcelluloses are preferred, particularly preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses. Such polymers are known to those skilled in the art and are commercially available from various companies. Particular preference is given to the cationic cellulose derivatives known under the INCI names Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67, and / or Polyquaternium-72. Very particular preference is given to Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, and / or Polyquaternium-67, and especially preference is given to Polyquaternium-10.

[0136] Suitable cationic guar derivatives are cationic hydroxyalkyl guar derivatives, preferably cationic hydroxyethyltrimethylammonium guar and / or cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar with average molecular weights between 100,000 and 2,000,000 Daltons. Particular preference is given to the cationic guar polymers known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and / or Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, having a molecular weight (weight average) between 200,000 and 1,600,000 Daltons. The cationic charge density of these guar polymers is preferably at least 0.4 meq / g, more preferably at least 0.5 meq / g, and in particular at least 0.6 meq / g. Their nitrogen content is preferably in the range from 1.1 to 1.8 wt.% (based on their total weight).

[0137] Cationic guar derivatives, known under the INCI name Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, are known to those skilled in the art and are available from various suppliers, for example, under the trade names Cosmedia® Guar, N-Hance® Jaguar® and / or Polycare®.

[0138] Further suitable cationic polymers for use in the cosmetic compositions can, for example, be selected from cationic polymers with the INCI names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39 and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Cationic polymers e) can be used in the cosmetic compositions - based on their total weight - in amounts of 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.% and in particular 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%.

[0140] Suitable peptides f) are preferably understood to be peptides consisting of 3-40, more preferably 5-20 amino acids. Also preferred are peptides f) in which the proportion of amino acids with an amino functionality in the side chain is at least 30%.

[0141] Peptides f) can be used in the cosmetic compositions - based on their total weight - in amounts of 0.0001 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.0005 to 5 wt.% and in particular 0.001 to 1 wt.%.

[0142] It has been found that the process according to the invention can be further improved and thus the repair effect of the hair fibers and their internal structural strengthening can be further intensified if the cosmetic compositions contain at least one further repair agent for hair fibers in addition to one or more compounds according to formula (i).

[0143] A particularly preferred embodiment comprises methods according to the invention or uses according to the invention in which cosmetic compositions are used which contain, in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to at least one previously defined compound according to formula (i), from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one additional repair agent for hair fibers, based on their total weight.

[0144] In addition to the active ingredients described above, the cosmetic compositions suitable for use in the process according to the invention may further comprise one or more active ingredients from one or more of the following groups: Dyes, comprising both dyes for coloring the compositions and dyes for coloring hair, comprising oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, natural dyes and mixtures thereof and, if appropriate, oxidizing and alkalizing agents, UV filter substances

[0145] Perfumes

[0146] Thickeners such as cellulose ethers, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglucans, polygalactomannans, pectins, agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, karaya gum, tara gum, gellan, gelatin, propylene glycol alginate, alginic acids and their salts, polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylamides, physically (e.g. by pregelatinization) and / or chemically modified starches, acrylic acid-acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers, acrylic acid-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, acrylic acid-vinylformamide copolymers, polyacrylates and branched polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their salts

[0147] Complexing agents such as EDTA

[0148] Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Pyrithione, Climbazole, Propanediol Caprylate

[0149] Film-forming polymers such as, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.Specific suitable examples are the commercial products Aculyn® 22, Aculyn® 28, Structure® 2001 , Structure® 3001 , Structure Plus®, Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 , Amphomer®, Dermacryl® LT and 79, Luvitol® HSB, PVP (Luvitech® 17, 30, 60, 80, 85, 90, K 115), Luviskol® K 90, Luviskol® K 85, Luviskol® VA 64 and 73, Aquaflex® SF-40 Styleze® CC-10.

[0150] Amino acids, preferably alanine, arginine, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, lysine, proline, serine, methionine, tyrosine and mixtures thereof

[0151] Pearlescent agents and / or opacifiers

[0152] Keratin-reducing agents such as mercaptans, thioglycolate salts, if necessary in combination with ammonia or amines, organic acids such as citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, alkalizing agents

[0153] Ceramide propellant

[0154] Preservatives. Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition which is contained in a cosmetic carrier (based on its total weight)

[0155] (i) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (i) and

[0156] (ii) 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one additional hair fiber repair agent selected from a. compounds of the following formulas (I) or (II) b. Compounds of the following formula (III) and / or

[0157] R 7 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 8(III) c. inorganic lanthanum salts, wherein in formulas (I), (II) and (III) o R1-R4 are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen and R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group;and o R1 -R4' are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen and R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group or a heterocyclic group, it being excluded that R5' and Re' are simultaneously hydrogen, o the aliphatic hydrocarbon group, the alicyclic hydrocarbon group, the aryl group, the alkylaryl group or the heterocyclic group is substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, o one of the radicals R; 7 or R 8represents H and the other represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and o X represents -OH, -NH2, -CI, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2)n-CH3, where n represents the numbers 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2)m-OH, where m represents the numbers 1, 2 or 3.

[0158] The cosmetic composition is suitable for the treatment of damaged hair, in particular for the treatment of hair damage caused by chemical treatments such as permanent waves, cold waves, bleaching and lightening processes, coloring processes with oxidation dyes, as well as by exposure to sunlight, frequent washing and drying under high heat.

[0159] Their application to damaged hair—especially hair damaged by oxidative treatments—leads to the repair of hair fibers through chemical cross-linking and the creation of new micro-bonds within the hair fiber. This strengthens the internal structure of the hair fibers.

[0160] Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises in a cosmetic carrier (based on its total weight) a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (i) and b) 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one compound of formula (II).

[0161] Within this embodiment, it is further particularly preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises in a cosmetic carrier (based on its total weight) a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (i) and b) 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (III).

[0162] Within this embodiment, it is further particularly preferred if the cosmetic composition comprises in a cosmetic carrier (based on its total weight) a) 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one compound according to formula (i) and b) 0.01 to 10 wt.% of lanthanum chloride.

[0163] Suitable compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known as mixtures. One possible way to prepare them is disclosed, for example, in patent application US 2017 / 0007518.

[0164] Preferably, at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one compound of formula (II) are varied in a molar ratio of 0.1:1 to 99.9:1, more preferably 1:99 to 99:1, particularly preferably 20:80 to 80:20. Most preferably, the molar ratio of compounds of formula (I) to compounds of formula (II) is 40:60 to 60:40.

[0165] Most preferably, a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate in the aforementioned molar ratios is used in the cosmetic compositions.

[0166] Such mixtures are commercially available, for example, from Ashland under the trade name Fiberhance® bm.

[0167] In particularly suitable compounds according to formula (III), one of the radicals R 7 , R 8represents H and the other represents a saturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred compounds of formula (III) are those in which one of the radicals R 7 , R 8 represents H and the other represents a group - (CH2)O-CH3, where o represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

[0168] Most preferably, one of the residues R 7 or R 8 for H and the other for a butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl group, in particular a hexyl group.

[0169] Also preferred are alpha-substituted compounds according to formula (III) in which the substituent X represents a hydroxyl or an amino group.

[0170] Particularly preferably, X represents a hydroxyl group.

[0171] Particularly preferred are alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula (III) in which

[0172] • one of the residues R 7 , R 8represents H or a group -(CH2)o-CH3, where o represents the numbers 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and

[0173] • X represents a hydroxyl group.

[0174] Very particular preference is given to alpha-substituted compounds of the general formula (III) which are selected from alpha-hydroxybutanal, alpha-hydroxypentanal, alpha-hydroxyhexanal, alpha-hydroxyheptanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxybutanone, alpha-hydroxypentanone, alpha-hydroxyhexanone, alpha-hydroxyheptanone, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.

[0175] Particularly preferred are alpha-hydroxyoctanal, alpha-hydroxyoctanone or mixtures thereof.

[0176] A particularly preferred embodiment of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it contains in a cosmetic carrier - based on its total weight - a) 0.01 - 5 wt. % of at least one compound according to formula (i) and b) 0.01 - 10 wt. % of a. a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate or b. alpha-hydroxyoctanal or alpha-hydroxyoctanone or c. lanthanum chloride or d. any mixtures of a., b. and c.

[0177] Regarding preferred embodiments of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention

[0178] Composition, what has been said about the process according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

[0179] Examples:

[0180] The following hair treatment products were prepared. The quantities given are in wt.% unless otherwise stated.

[0181] 1) Implementation examples

[0182] Hair shampoo:

[0183] Hair conditioner:

[0184]

[0185] 2) Proof of effectiveness - DSC measurements

[0186] Background:

[0187] Hair is a keratin-containing material with a complex morphological microstructure. For mechanical or thermal studies, the structure can be simplified as a biphasic filament / matrix composite material, in which α-helical filaments are embedded in an amorphous matrix. These two dominant compounds largely determine the mechanical properties of human hair. Peak temperature values ​​provide information about the damage or integrity of the matrix and α-helix. The looser (less cross-linked) the matrix or the smaller the crystals of the α-helical phase, the lower the peak temperature.

[0188] Materials:

[0189] Hair strands: Alkinco 6634 (USA), natural, dark European hair; DSC pan pretreatment:

[0190] Three strands of hair were used, each cleaned with SLES (approximately 3% active ingredient in deionized water, pH 6-7). Then, with the exception of the untreated reference strand, all strands were bleached with Blond Me Lift9+, mixing ratio 1:2 (bleaching powder:developer with 9% H2O2). 5 g of the mixture was applied per g of hair for 45 minutes. The pretreatment was completed at least 48 hours before the application of the product.

[0191] Composition and method of application of the product:

[0192] An aqueous solution M1 containing 1% polyaspartic acid (Baypure DS 100) was prepared. The pH of the solution was 6.5. One of the bleached hair strands was immersed in the solution M1 for 60 minutes at room temperature. The excess solution was then wiped off, the strand was rinsed with tap water for 1 minute, and finally shampooed twice for 1 minute each with an SLES solution (10%; pH 4.5). After rinsing and drying the strand, DSC measurements were performed on all three hair strands.

[0193] Measurement:

[0194] All three hair strands (untreated, bleached, bleached, and treated with solution M1) were each cut into pieces approximately 1 mm long. 12 aliquots per reference were placed in DSC pans. After adding 50 ml of deionized water, each pan was sealed. The measurement was performed in a temperature range of 100–200°C at a heating rate of 10 Kelvin per minute. The denaturation temperature (= peak temperature) was then determined.

[0195] Results:

[0196] The hair treatment procedure with the polyaspartic acid-containing aqueous solution M1 resulted in a significant increase in the denaturation temperature of ultra-bleached hair strands.

Claims

Patent claims:

1. A method for repairing hair damage and strengthening the internal hair structure, comprising the following steps I. Application of a cosmetic composition to the hair II. optional: massage in the cosmetic composition III. optional: rinsing the cosmetic composition after an exposure time of 5 seconds to 60 minutes, characterized in that the cosmetic composition contains one or more compounds of the following formula (i) where the sum of m+n is 2 to 100 M stands for a hydrogen, metal or ammonium cation.

2. Use of compounds according to formula (i) in cosmetic compositions for repairing hair damage and strengthening the internal hair structure.

3. Process or use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition contains compounds of formula (i) in which the sum of m+n is 2 to 50 and M is an H, Na or K cation.

4. Process or use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (i) are polyaspartic acid and / or sodium salts of polyaspartic acid.

5. Process or use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition contains - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 5 wt.% of compounds according to formula (i).

6. Process or use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition contains - based on its total weight - 0.1 to 25 wt.% of at least one anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic surfactant or emulsifier.

7. Process or use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition contains - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 30 wt.% of at least one hair care active ingredient selected from the group of a) oils, b) protein hydrolysates c) proteolipids d) vitamins e) cationic polymers f) peptides g) or any mixtures of the hair care active ingredients a) - f).

8. Process or use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic composition contains - based on its total weight - 0.01 to 10 wt.% of at least one additional hair fiber repair agent.

9. Cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition - • 0.01 to 5 wt.% of at least one compound of formula (i) and • 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one additional hair fiber repair agent selected from a. compounds of the following formulas (I) or (II) b. Compounds of the following formula (III) and / or R 7 -C(O)-CH(X)-R 8 (III) c. inorganic lanthanum salts, wherein in the formulas (I), (II) and (III) o R1-R4 independently represent hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, one hydroxyl group, one amino group, one sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen and R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group, an alkylaryl group or a heterocyclic group; and o R1 -R4' are independently hydrogen, a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an amino group, a sulfhydryl group, an aryl group or a halogen and R5 and Re are independently hydrogen, an aliphatic hydrocarbon group, an alicyclic hydrocarbon group, an aryl group or a heterocyclic group, it being excluded that R5' and Re' are simultaneously hydrogen, o the aliphatic hydrocarbon group, the alicyclic hydrocarbon group, the aryl group, the alkylaryl group or the heterocyclic group is substituted by at least one hydroxyl group, o one of the radicals R 7 or R 8represents H and the other represents a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group having 1 to 15 carbon atoms, where the carbon chain may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or amino groups, and o X represents -OH, -NH2, -CI, -Br, -I or the following groups: -O-(CH2)n-CH3, where n represents the numbers 1, 2, 3 or 4, and -O-(CH2)m-OH, where m represents the numbers 1, 2 or 3.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, containing in a cosmetic carrier - based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition - • 0.01 - 5 wt.% of at least one compound according to formula (i) and • 0.01 - 10 wt.% of a. a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate or b. alpha-hydroxyoctanal or alpha-hydroxyoctanone or c. lanthanum chloride or d. any mixtures of a., b. and c.

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